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hist_text-digest        Monday, April 10 2000        Volume 01 : Number 516



In this issue:

-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: For sale
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: For sale
-áááááá MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá MtMan-List: curl...
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: curl...
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá MtMan-List: 12L14 ML Barrels
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: curl...
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee
-áááááá MtMan-List: loose hammer
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: loose hammer
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: loose hammer

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Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 22:19:32 -0500
From: Terry & Debbie Venden <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: For sale

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Washtahay Longwalker,
I'd be interested in a list of your wares.  Always looking for something to buy.
Enjoy your comments and information on the list.
Terry (Medicine Bear)

[e-mail] wrote:

> Washtahay-
>         out of sheer boredom, its time for one of my infamous on-line rummage
> sales.  Books, gun parts, moulds, dies, etc.  Some trade silver, leather,
> etc.  List will go out tonight, for a copy please reply to me at
> <[e-mail]>.
> Thanks!
> LongWalker c. du B.
>
> ----------------------
> hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html

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n:Venden;Terry & Debbie
tel;home:[phone]
tel;work:[phone]
x-mozilla-html:FALSE
url:http://www.geocities.com/~2wolvestrading
org:Two Wolves Trading Co.
adr:;;Rt. 1, #24 Deerwood Dr.;Harleton;Texas;75651;
version:2.1
email;internet:[e-mail]
fn:Terry & Debbie Venden
end:vcard

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Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 22:23:40 -0500
From: Terry & Debbie Venden <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: For sale

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Sorry, I didn't mean for that last message to go out to the list.
Terry (Medicine Bear)



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n:Venden;Terry & Debbie
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url:http://www.geocities.com/~2wolvestrading
org:Two Wolves Trading Co.
adr:;;Rt. 1, #24 Deerwood Dr.;Harleton;Texas;75651;
version:2.1
email;internet:[e-mail]
fn:Terry & Debbie Venden
end:vcard

- --------------A549A1504840C53AAB6FCE21--


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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:03:25 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

Hallo the list,

I've always wondered how the Mountain Men ground their coffee (starbucks)
after they roasted the beans.... I now know, so this is a test.... Anyone
have the answer?

Ymos,

Steve

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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 11:54:42 -0700
From: Randal J Bublitz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

I believe they put it in a sack, or piece of something to keep it
together, then beat it using the back of an axe, rock, etc...  hardtack

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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:53:06 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

Given the tools at hand, cloth, rocks, hand-axes, etc., seems like Hardtack
would be right on the money and I'd have to concur.    Barney

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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 15:08:13 -0400
From: "D Miles" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

 Hardtack Wrote:>I believe they put it in a sack, or piece of something to
keep it
> together, then beat it using the back of an axe, rock, etc...

That's how I do it...At least 'till I can get my paws on Pablo's new
pistol.. I 'spect the its butt that will work better'n an axe.. More
entertaining as well..<GG>
D

"Abair ach beagan is abair gu math e"
          DOUBLE EDGE FORGE
  Period Knives & Iron Accoutrements
   http://www.bright.net/~deforge1
  "Knowing how is just the beginning"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Randal J Bublitz <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee



>
> ----------------------
> hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>


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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 17:04:30 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

<<<<Hardtack Wrote:>I believe they put it in a sack, or piece of something to

keep it>>>
Haaaaaa!   You boys are good....  according to Hanson's "The Buckskinner's
Cook Book" they put the roasted beans in a leather bag and pounded till the
beans were crushed.... Looks like I'll put my antique coffee grinder back on
the shelf....

Ymos,

Steve

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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 17:09:47 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: curl...

Ho the List,

OK....next question..... Has anyone figured (no pun) out what causes the
"Curl" in Curly  Maple and sometimes walnut? Doesn't seem to have much to do
with the grain....

Ymos,
Steve

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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 17:25:08 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

> Haaaaaa!   You boys are good....  according to Hanson's "The Buckskinner's
>  Cook Book" they put the roasted beans in a leather bag and pounded till
the
>  beans were crushed.

I hold a contrary opinion !  I imagine that coffee beans were far to great of
a luxury to be pounded up, used once, and thrown away.

The beans can be used whole, roasted, the coffee brewed, and the beans
reclaimed.
They can then be re-roasted and used several times over using this method.  I
think that their usage would be maximized.  Perhaps in settled areas where
they could be purchased easily; consumption  and discard might be the rule.
As part of supplies to the mountains, I strongly suspect that they were made
to last as long as possible.
Just my opinion, of course, based on a different logic.

Dave Kanger

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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 18:17:35 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: curl...

i'm no woodworker, but i'm thinkin' the 'curly' part comes from the burl of
the wood; either a knot or the root, not sure if both are usuable, but thats
where you'd get the curled patterns...  barney

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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 18:29:31 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

In a message dated 4/9/00 2:27:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

>  Perhaps in settled areas where they could be purchased easily; consumption
 and discard might be the rule. As part of supplies to the mountains, I
strongly suspect that they were made to last as long as possible.  >  Just my
opinion, of course, based on a different logic.

Good thought Dave, you old Fox. <G>  I'm thinkin this is Cityfolk v.
Mountainman stuff. No doubt both logics existed. Even today, coffee beans and
grounds are thrown away after one use by some; put to use again by others.
Barney

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------------------------------

Date: 9 Apr 2000 15:39:01 -0700
From: Buck Conner <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

On Sun, 09 April 2000, [e-mail] wrote:
> Haaaaaa!   You boys are good....
>
> I hold a contrary opinion !  I imagine that coffee beans were far to great of a luxury to be pounded up, used once, and thrown away.
>
> The beans can be used whole, roasted, the coffee brewed, and the beans reclaimed.
>
> They can then be re-roasted and used several times over using this method.  I think that their usage would be maximized......
>
> Just my opinion, of course, based on a different logic.
>
> Dave Kanger
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hello camp,

I'm afraid Dave has a good point, Hanson found several accounts of coffee being reused as many as 6-7 times. He really never said if it was done like Dave as suggested. I had always figured they put the broken up grounds in a piece of cloth and then boiled the sack, let it dry out and used it again.

We tried this method, but only got real weak coffee the 2nd and 3rd time, so we had strong coffee in the morning and by evening you didn't have to worry about trying to go to sleep, like a weak tea.

Later
Buck Conner
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~ http://pages.about.com/buckconner ~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"meat's not meat until it's in the pan"
                  Aux Aliments de Pays!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Signup for your free USWEST.mail Email account http://www.uswestmail.net

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 20:07:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (JON MARINETTI)
Subject: MtMan-List: 12L14 ML Barrels

They spec out at 0.15% to 0.35% lead (weight %), with carbon at 0.15%
max.  Any other steels (i.e., alloy quenched & tempered, or stainless)
the lead is usually less than 0.01%.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
from Michigan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


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Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 19:28:06 -0500
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

- --=====================_69346817==_.ALT
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I've been a pondering this and I think the Old Fox may be on to something=20
here.

Seems like it might take more beans in the pot to have enough surface area=
=20
to make the coffee strong enough.  You ain't one of them that makes puny=20
coffee are you?

The trick may be in the re-roasting.  I've always left the grounds in the=20
bottom of the pot and added a handful or two of coffee to freshen the=20
grounds every time I add water.  When there's not enough room for more=20
water I'll dump some of the grounds and add more fresh.  This trick sounds=
=20
simpler to live with.  Of course I eat about as much coffee as I drink but=
=20
beans ain't no harder to chew up than grounds, that's how I test the=20
quality and freshness of beans at the store.

You can bet I'll try it I've worn out a bunch of canvas and leather bags=20
over the years (never use a chemical tan leather for a coffee grinder=20
bag).   Paul's pistol might make a first rate coffee pounder but be sure=20
you lay the bag on a rough surface rock.

John...

At 05:25 PM 4/9/00 -0400, you wrote:
> > Haaaaaa!   You boys are good....  according to Hanson's "The=
 Buckskinner's
> >  Cook Book" they put the roasted beans in a leather bag and pounded till
>the
> >  beans were crushed.
>
>I hold a contrary opinion !  I imagine that coffee beans were far to great=
 of
>a luxury to be pounded up, used once, and thrown away.
>
>The beans can be used whole, roasted, the coffee brewed, and the beans
>reclaimed.
>They can then be re-roasted and used several times over using this method. =
 I
>think that their usage would be maximized.  Perhaps in settled areas where
>they could be purchased easily; consumption  and discard might be the rule.
>As part of supplies to the mountains, I strongly suspect that they were=
 made
>to last as long as possible.
>Just my opinion, of course, based on a different logic.
>
>Dave Kanger
>
>----------------------
>hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html

John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0

Kramer's Best Antique Improver
 >>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<

<http://www.kramerize.com/>

mail to: <[e-mail]>

- --=====================_69346817==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<font size=3D3>I've been a pondering this and I think the Old Fox may be on
to something here.  <br>
<br>
Seems like it might take more beans in the pot to have enough surface
area to make the coffee strong enough.  You ain't one of them that
makes puny coffee are you?<br>
<br>
The trick may be in the re-roasting.  I've always left the grounds
in the bottom of the pot and added a handful or two of coffee to freshen
the grounds every time I add water.  When there's not enough room
for more water I'll dump some of the grounds and add more fresh.
This trick sounds simpler to live with.  Of course I eat about as
much coffee as I drink but beans ain't no harder to chew up than grounds,
that's how I test the quality and freshness of beans at the store.<br>
<br>
You can bet I'll try it I've worn out a bunch of canvas and leather bags
over the years (never use a chemical tan leather for a coffee grinder
bag).   Paul's pistol might make a first rate coffee pounder
but be sure you lay the bag on a rough surface rock.<br>
<br>
John...<br>
<br>
At 05:25 PM 4/9/00 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite cite>> Haaaaaa!   You boys are
good....  according to Hanson's "The Buckskinner's <br>
>  Cook Book" they put the roasted beans in a leather bag
and pounded till <br>
the <br>
>  beans were crushed.<br>
<br>
I hold a contrary opinion !  I imagine that coffee beans were far to
great of <br>
a luxury to be pounded up, used once, and thrown away.<br>
<br>
The beans can be used whole, roasted, the coffee brewed, and the beans
<br>
reclaimed.<br>
They can then be re-roasted and used several times over using this
method.  I <br>
think that their usage would be maximized.  Perhaps in settled areas
where <br>
they could be purchased easily; consumption  and discard might be
the rule.  <br>
As part of supplies to the mountains, I strongly suspect that they were
made <br>
to last as long as possible.<br>
Just my opinion, of course, based on a different logic.<br>
<br>
Dave Kanger<br>
<br>
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hist_text list info:
<a href=3D"http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html</a></=
font></blockquote><br>
<div>John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0</div>
<br>
<div>Kramer's Best Antique Improver</div>
<div>>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<</div>
<div>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<</div>
<br>
<div><<a href=3D"http://www.kramerize.com/"=
 EUDORA=3DAUTOURL>http://www.kramerize.com/</a>></div>
<br>
<div>mail to: <[e-mail]> </div>
</html>

- --=====================_69346817==_.ALT--


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 20:49:34 -0500
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: curl...

- --=====================_74269914==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Steve,

Curl is one of many terms used to describe the various patterns in the=20
grain of wood, generically it is referred to as the figure of the=20
wood.  Peddlers make up new names every day.

Flame grain is the exposure of the medullary rays in the wood by radially=20
quarter-sawing the log.  Luster (iridescence, translucence, or depth) is=20
generally enhanced by quarter-sawing as well, finish absorption and=20
adhesion is also improved.  Quarter-sawn wood tends to be more stable and=20
exhibit less warping, winding and twisting than straight sawn wood.  Curl=20
can be exhibited in both radial and straight sawn wood.

Compression (growing unsupported out over a hill where the tree grows=20
against the side pull of gravity) will also effect figure and grain.  This=
=20
was historically used to advantage when harvesting wood for "bent" work so=
=20
full strength is maintained in curved things like boat ribs and beams.

Birds-eye is thought to occur when the trees grow in close=20
conditions.  I've also heard it reported that it is caused by disease.

Figure is also caused by the tree standing to the wind -- this is what=20
causes "curl".  The more it swayed over the years the curlier it got.  You=
=20
can often tell by the surface of the trunk what lurks beneath, sometimes=
 not.

Other figure is caused by disease and external damage.  Disease can also=20
cause coloration of the wood as in "spalting".  Mineral concentrations in=20
the soil can also effect color.

Burls are of two forms gnarly knotted things that grow on the trunk and=20
result from disease or damage and root burls which are always nice, nicer=20
if frequently injured during the growth cycles.  Root burls of city trees=20
can be spectacular when forced to grow around sidewalks, storm drains, curb=
=20
and gutter.  They can be seriously damaging to tools and occasionally lives=
=20
when the tools hit something real hard like concrete or steel embedded deep=
=20
in the wood.

John...


At 05:09 PM 4/9/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Ho the List,
>
>OK....next question..... Has anyone figured (no pun) out what causes the
>"Curl" in Curly  Maple and sometimes walnut? Doesn't seem to have much to=
 do
>with the grain....
>
>Ymos,
>Steve

John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0

Kramer's Best Antique Improver
 >>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<

<http://www.kramerize.com/>

mail to: <[e-mail]>

- --=====================_74269914==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<font size=3D3>Steve,<br>
<br>
Curl is one of many terms used to describe the various patterns in the
grain of wood, generically it is referred to as the figure of the
wood.  Peddlers make up new names every day.   <br>
<br>
Flame grain is the exposure of the medullary rays in the wood by radially
quarter-sawing the log.  Luster (iridescence, translucence, or
depth) is generally enhanced by quarter-sawing as well, finish absorption
and adhesion is also improved.  Quarter-sawn wood tends to be more
stable and exhibit less warping, winding and twisting than straight sawn
wood.  Curl can be exhibited in both radial and straight sawn
wood.<br>
<br>
Compression (growing unsupported out over a hill where the tree grows
against the side pull of gravity) will also effect figure and
grain.  This was historically used to advantage when harvesting wood
for "bent" work so full strength is maintained in curved things
like boat ribs and beams.<br>
<br>
Birds-eye is thought to occur when the trees grow in close
conditions.  I've also heard it reported that it is caused by
disease.<br>
<br>
Figure is also caused by the tree standing to the wind -- this is what
causes "curl".  The more it swayed over the years the
curlier it got.  You can often tell by the surface of the trunk what
lurks beneath, sometimes not.<br>
<br>
Other figure is caused by disease and external damage.  Disease can
also cause coloration of the wood as in "spalting".
Mineral concentrations in the soil can also effect color.<br>
<br>
Burls are of two forms gnarly knotted things that grow on the trunk and
result from disease or damage and root burls which are always nice, nicer
if frequently injured during the growth cycles.  Root burls of city
trees can be spectacular when forced to grow around sidewalks, storm
drains, curb and gutter.  They can be seriously damaging to tools
and occasionally lives when the tools hit something real hard like
concrete or steel embedded deep in the wood.<br>
<br>
John...<br>
<br>
<br>
At 05:09 PM 4/9/00 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite cite>Ho the List,<br>
<br>
OK....next question..... Has anyone figured (no pun) out what causes the
<br>
"Curl" in Curly  Maple and sometimes walnut? Doesn't seem
to have much to do <br>
with the grain....<br>
<br>
Ymos,<br>
Steve<br>
</font></blockquote><br>
<div>John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0</div>
<br>
<div>Kramer's Best Antique Improver</div>
<div>>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<</div>
<div>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<</div>
<br>
<div><<a href=3D"http://www.kramerize.com/"=
 EUDORA=3DAUTOURL>http://www.kramerize.com/</a>></div>
<br>
<div>mail to: <[e-mail]> </div>
</html>

- --=====================_74269914==_.ALT--


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 23:11:50 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

Hooray for Dave.  they made whole bean coffee.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 22:18:39 -0500
From: "Ratcliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

Dave
I never heard of making coffee with roasted, whole beans so I tried it =
tonight.  Sucks bad.  I added a measured amount of water to a coffee =
kettle that has be used for years over campfires in 5 states, raised it =
to a boil and added a measured amount of whole, roasted coffee beans.  =
(When I use ground coffee I never boil the water with coffee in it.....I =
remove the boiling pot from the fire and add the coffee.  After allowing =
the coffee to brew for a minute or two I add a couple of tablespoons of =
cold water which is supposed to settle the grounds.)  Well, I let the =
whole beans boil for five minutes.  The resulting brew looked weaker =
than Chinese green tea and tasted worse.  I  would bet that most of what =
little flavor was there came from the pot, which only gets =
rinsed....soap never touches it.  I dumped the pot and raised the same =
amount of water to a boil, added coffee ground from the same quanity of =
whole beans as before and brewed coffee as described above.  Tastes =
great....sipping it now.  I don't know how long whole beans would have =
to be boiled to get a beverage that even looked like coffee but I don't =
care.  Boiling coffee removes certain volitiles that make up much of the =
flavor and I doubt boiled whole beans would ever make good coffee.  =
Reusing cooked grounds is a very common practice and if coffee is scarce =
a good case can be made for doing it, but in my experience the resulting =
brew is pretty sad even with the addition of a handful of fresh grounds. =
 It IS thick, though.
Now for some speculation on my part........  It seems to me that the men =
who lived the life in the rocky mountains in the first third of the =
ninenteeth century lived life with gusto, risking death daily, eating =
pounds of meat at a sitting, raising hell at rendezvous until they were =
broke (many of them, anyhow), living mainly for today.....those men =
would want better coffee than that sad brew made with unground whole =
beans.  I think that they would make good coffee, throw out the grounds =
when they were used up to their satisfaction and drink water when they =
ran out.
I hope to share a fire and a coffee pot with you some time and explore =
this further.
YMOS
Lanney Ratcliff
- ----- Original Message -----=20
From: <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee


> > Haaaaaa!   You boys are good....  according to Hanson's "The =
Buckskinner's=20
> >  Cook Book" they put the roasted beans in a leather bag and pounded =
till=20
> the=20
> >  beans were crushed.
>=20
> I hold a contrary opinion !  I imagine that coffee beans were far to =
great of=20
> a luxury to be pounded up, used once, and thrown away.
>=20
> The beans can be used whole, roasted, the coffee brewed, and the beans =

> reclaimed.
> They can then be re-roasted and used several times over using this =
method.  I=20
> think that their usage would be maximized.  Perhaps in settled areas =
where=20
> they could be purchased easily; consumption  and discard might be the =
rule. =20
> As part of supplies to the mountains, I strongly suspect that they =
were made=20
> to last as long as possible.
> Just my opinion, of course, based on a different logic.
>=20
> Dave Kanger
>=20
> ----------------------
> hist_text list info: =
http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 00:12:06 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

Whole bean coffee is not made by boiling the water.  It is kept heated for a
lovg time but not boiled.

- ----------------------
hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 00:22:32 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

> I never heard of making coffee with roasted, whole beans so I tried it
> tonight.  Sucks bad.

Lannie,
I never said it tasted good. <G> You also make a good case but......

a.  The beans need to be DARK roasted, preferably by yourself.
b.  Being unground, there is less surface area with whole beans, so it takes
a lot more.
c.  I use a small boiler half filled with beans...makes about two cups.
d.  To reuse, they have to be dried and re-roasted, with obvious diminishing
returns.
e.  SHUDDER.....I also add large quantities of sugar to mine.

We don't really know what coffee tasted like back then, nor if they were
afficiondos like many of us are.  It's an acquired taste and we have many
choices.  You can also roast a variety of other things to drink which will
approximate a warm beverage...among them wheat, pine/pinion nuts,
dandelion/thistle roots and chicory.
Don't know if dandelions and thistle were indigenious plants or not.  I
expect they all could be called coffee too, just as a generic name.

We will probably never know, but its interesting to speculate.

Dave

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 06:03:22 -0500
From: "Ratcliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

Maybe so.  The next morning that I have a long time available to make =
coffee I might try that method.  If boiling doesn't extract any flavor, =
how long is is apt to take in hot water?

- ----- Original Message -----=20
From: <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 11:12 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee


> Whole bean coffee is not made by boiling the water.  It is kept heated =
for a=20
> lovg time but not boiled.
>=20
> ----------------------
> hist_text list info: =
http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 06:11:28 -0500
From: "Ratcliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee

Dave
My beans were roasted commercially, but were nearly coal black but I =
certainly didn't use half a pot of beans.  Maybe a little more flavor is =
possible that way, but I think I am going to stick with whacking them to =
grounds in a leather bag.  I would be glad to try a cup of yours =
someday.  Without the sugar, though.  My diabetes would object.
Chicory is good.  I have never tried anything else on your list.  My =
depression era parents talked about using  various coffee substitutes.  =
Didn't like any of 'em.
Lanney =20
- ----- Original Message -----=20
From: <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Grinding coffee


> > I never heard of making coffee with roasted, whole beans so I tried =
it=20
> > tonight.  Sucks bad.
>=20
> Lannie,
> I never said it tasted good. <G> You also make a good case but......
>=20
> a.  The beans need to be DARK roasted, preferably by yourself.
> b.  Being unground, there is less surface area with whole beans, so it =
takes=20
> a lot more.
> c.  I use a small boiler half filled with beans...makes about two =
cups. =20
> d.  To reuse, they have to be dried and re-roasted, with obvious =
diminishing=20
> returns.
> e.  SHUDDER.....I also add large quantities of sugar to mine.
>=20
> We don't really know what coffee tasted like back then, nor if they =
were=20
> afficiondos like many of us are.  It's an acquired taste and we have =
many=20
> choices.  You can also roast a variety of other things to drink which =
will=20
> approximate a warm beverage...among them wheat, pine/pinion nuts,=20
> dandelion/thistle roots and chicory.=20
> Don't know if dandelions and thistle were indigenious plants or not.  =
I=20
> expect they all could be called coffee too, just as a generic name.
>=20
> We will probably never know, but its interesting to speculate.
>=20
> Dave
>=20
> ----------------------
> hist_text list info: =
http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:08:30 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: loose hammer

Hallo the List,

Think I'll pass on the coffee beans too, and go with the smashed....

Next question..... The hammer on my flintlock fusil is a mite loose....mebbe
a .001 or .002... the square hole a bit large from use. What would be the
best way to tighten it up? I'm thinkin silver solder may work, then file
down, but don't know if it would stick to steel and wonder about the heat...
Hawk?

Ymos,
Steve

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:05:00 -0400
From: michael pierce <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: loose hammer

steve---
couple of ways to fix the hammer to tighten it up---a lot depends on how
loose it is---you can take a small ball peen hammer and peen around wher
the sw hole goes  thru the hammer---I prefer to use a center punch ground
sharp and punch the hammer in about 4 places around the sw----a lot of
old timers did this if the hammer is not too loose ---next option is to
slide a piece of shim in the gap---another option is to flow silver
soulder into the square and refile it ---my first chouice is the peening
with a sharp pointed punch close to the edge to the hole so that the
screw covers the marks---Just in my humbel opinion of course___

hawk
Michael pierce

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 13:58:53 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: loose hammer

> The hammer on my flintlock fusil is a mite loose....mebbe
>  a .001 or .002... the square hole a bit large from use.

First make sure it is the hammer and not the tumbler.  Your lockplate hole
might be enlarged.

> What would be the  best way to tighten it up?

A simple shim made from brass shim stock is probably best.  Don't go peening
everything unless it is a last resort.  Even aluminum foil might work as a
shim.

> I'm thinkin silver solder may work, then file
>  down, but don't know if it would stick to steel and wonder about the
heat...

There is a possibility that you could remove the temper from the tumbler.
Again. its the last resort.

Dave

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------------------------------

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