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hist_text-digest       Tuesday, February 9 1999       Volume 01 : Number 233




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 22:42:55 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil

I have discovered that the main difference between buckskinners and boy =
scouts is that buckskinners don't have responsible adult supervision.  =
Did She Who Must Be Obeyed get a new kitchen out of the fiasco?
Lanney Ratcliff
- -----Original Message-----
From: Henry B. Crawford <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 10:26 PM
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil


>
>>Don,
>
>[Sniperoo . . .]
>
> "you damn mess is burning the frecking kitchen
>>down", not one word was studdered.
>>
>>This mixture of linseed and beeswax really did a number on that =
kitchen, off
>>course the amount of water we put on that fire didn't help matters =
either.
>>Like you say be damn careful with heating in an open pot, even with a =
lid.
>
>>Buck
>
>
>Simple solution.  Dig yourself a firepit and take the whole operation =
outside.
>
>Cheers,
>HBC
>
>*****************************************
>Henry B. Crawford        Curator of History
>[e-mail]     Museum of Texas Tech University
>806/742-2442           Box 43191
>FAX [phone]             Lubbock, TX  79409-3191
>               WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum
>******   Living History . . . Because it's there!   ******
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 00:15:10 -0500
From: "sean" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil

Heh... I remember one time I tried making candles in the kitchen... OOPS!!
The beeswax caught on fire, scorching hell outta the cabinets before I could
get the Purple-K extinguisher from the garage... GADS!!! I think that was a
bigger mess than the fire!!  To answer a question ahead of time, Yeppers...
she got the kitchen remodeled... Last damned time I did that in the house.
Moved to my work shed after that along with lead pot, etc... Kept me outta
trouble fer a while... Got me a new She Who MustBe Obeyed... She loves
Ronnyvous'in as much as I do, so at least lets me into the garage... :)


- -----Original Message-----
From: Lanney Ratcliff <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil


>I have discovered that the main difference between buckskinners and boy
scouts is that buckskinners don't have responsible adult supervision.  Did
She Who Must Be Obeyed get a new kitchen out of the fiasco?
>Lanney Ratcliff
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Henry B. Crawford <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 10:26 PM
>Subject: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil
>
>
>>
>>>Don,
>>
>>[Sniperoo . . .]
>>
>> "you damn mess is burning the frecking kitchen
>>>down", not one word was studdered.
>>>
>>>This mixture of linseed and beeswax really did a number on that kitchen,
off
>>>course the amount of water we put on that fire didn't help matters
either.
>>>Like you say be damn careful with heating in an open pot, even with a
lid.
>>
>>>Buck
>>
>>
>>Simple solution.  Dig yourself a firepit and take the whole operation
outside.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>HBC
>>
>>*****************************************
>>Henry B. Crawford        Curator of History
>>[e-mail]     Museum of Texas Tech University
>>806/742-2442           Box 43191
>>FAX [phone]             Lubbock, TX  79409-3191
>>               WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum
>>******   Living History . . . Because it's there!   ******
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 00:06:59 -0700
From: "Ron Chamberlain" <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston

Hello the list!

I finally got the article about J. Johnston done and posted on my website.
You can read it at:
<http://www.ida.net/users/cstmzd/Johnston.html>
or there is a link from my Clubs page below. If you would like this article
zipped contact me OFFLIST and I will email. Zip is in Wordpad .doc format.

Thank you Longtrail and TetonTod for the help!!!

Enjoy!
YMOS
Ron
AKA Lonewolf





Lewis Fork Free Trappers
<http://www.ida.net/users/cstmzd/trappers.html>
email: [e-mail]
ICQ #26140332

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 02:44:04 -0500
From: greg n bosen <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List:blood poision

is this from exposure to the bacteria of a rotten hide or can this accure
with a sweet smelling hide too?

Greg Bosen
I did get blood poisioning from one of my hides a few years ago.


> Once hide begin to smell, you take the chance of blood poisoning
occuring to
>yourself.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 05:55:49 PST
From: "Matthew Hawley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:57:36 -0800

Adam,

    HAve you tried catologs like red head or cabelas they both have top of
the line muzzleloaders in flint lock too.

                                            check it out.
                                            matt (white eagle)hawley

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 08:18:48 -0700 (MST)
From: [e-mail] (BRUCE S. DE LIS)
Subject: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat

First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona.  May question has to d
o with Wooden Rifle Stocks, my old shooter is not really worth all the trouble I
have put into keeping the stock well oiled to keep the thing from drying out in t
he lovely Arizona Dry heat, I used everything available like 3-1 Oil, WD-40, and
even Old English to keep the stock on the old shooter some oiled, to protect it f
rom drying out.  So I am getting ready to buy this nice Semi-Custom Rifle.

Am wondering if any of you have had the opportunity to experience this Dry Heat,
and found a product that really protect the wood, and keeps it stabilized, keep m
oisture in the wood, so it down not shrink and dry out and pop inlays, or crackin
g lock mortise area.  Surely some of you come out to Winter Nationals, and have e
xperienced the Arizona Dry Heat and understand what I am speaking of when I say D
RY HEAT.  Any product suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

- --
"The Price Of Freedom
     Is Not Free"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 10:31:47 -0600
From: "S.M.Despain-1" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat

Bruce:

Just an idea for you.  Guitarists have much the same problem with guitars brought
from moister climes to the intermountain west.  One solution could be to get guitar
humidifiers that you can put in a case with your rifle. They are available at most
guitar or music shops and cost only a few bucks.  But you need to keep them and the
rifle in a confined space to maintain the humidity.  I don't know about possible
problems with the metal, but guitars have a bit and I've never had problems with
those parts rusting or corroding.

Good luck,

Matt Depsain
University of Oklahoma
[e-mail]

BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote:

> First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona.  May question has to d
> o with Wooden Rifle Stocks, my old shooter is not really worth all the trouble I
> have put into keeping the stock well oiled to keep the thing from drying out in t
> he lovely Arizona Dry heat, I used everything available like 3-1 Oil, WD-40, and
> even Old English to keep the stock on the old shooter some oiled, to protect it f
> rom drying out.  So I am getting ready to buy this nice Semi-Custom Rifle.
>
> Am wondering if any of you have had the opportunity to experience this Dry Heat,
> and found a product that really protect the wood, and keeps it stabilized, keep m
> oisture in the wood, so it down not shrink and dry out and pop inlays, or crackin
> g lock mortise area.  Surely some of you come out to Winter Nationals, and have e
> xperienced the Arizona Dry Heat and understand what I am speaking of when I say D
> RY HEAT.  Any product suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> "The Price Of Freedom
>      Is Not Free"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 09:44:45 -0800
From: "Gail Carbiener" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston

Ron:
    Thanks for the article on Johnston. I read an interesting book that
continues the saga of Johnston:
 Crow Killer; The Saga of Liver-Eating Johnson. written by Raymond Thorp and
Robert Bunker, Indiana University Press first in 1958.
    The authors recognize the story is "Oral history"
Gail Carbiener
==============================


>Hello the list!
>
>I finally got the article about J. Johnston done and posted on my website.
>You can read it at:
><http://www.ida.net/users/cstmzd/Johnston.html>
>or there is a link from my Clubs page below. If you would like this article
>zipped contact me OFFLIST and I will email. Zip is in Wordpad .doc format.
>
>Thank you Longtrail and TetonTod for the help!!!
>
>Enjoy!
>YMOS
>Ron
>AKA Lonewolf
>
>
>
>
>
>Lewis Fork Free Trappers
><http://www.ida.net/users/cstmzd/trappers.html>
>email: [e-mail]
>ICQ #26140332

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 14:21:42 -0700 (MST)
From: [e-mail] (BRUCE S. DE LIS)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat

Great idea,

Thanks,

B
>
>Bruce:
>
>Just an idea for you.  Guitarists have much the same problem with guitars brought
>from moister climes to the intermountain west.  One solution could be to get guitar
>humidifiers that you can put in a case with your rifle. They are available at most
>guitar or music shops and cost only a few bucks.  But you need to keep them and the
>rifle in a confined space to maintain the humidity.  I don't know about possible
>problems with the metal, but guitars have a bit and I've never had problems with
>those parts rusting or corroding.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Matt Depsain
>University of Oklahoma
>[e-mail]
>
>BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote:
>
>> First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona.  May question has to d
>> o with Wooden Rifle Stocks, my old shooter is not really worth all the trouble I
>> have put into keeping the stock well oiled to keep the thing from drying out in t
>> he lovely Arizona Dry heat, I used everything available like 3-1 Oil, WD-40, and
>> even Old English to keep the stock on the old shooter some oiled, to protect it f
>> rom drying out.  So I am getting ready to buy this nice Semi-Custom Rifle.
>>
>> Am wondering if any of you have had the opportunity to experience this Dry Heat,
>> and found a product that really protect the wood, and keeps it stabilized, keep m
>> oisture in the wood, so it down not shrink and dry out and pop inlays, or crackin
>> g lock mortise area.  Surely some of you come out to Winter Nationals, and have e
>> xperienced the Arizona Dry Heat and understand what I am speaking of when I say D
>> RY HEAT.  Any product suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> --
>> "The Price Of Freedom
>>      Is Not Free"
>
>
>
>

- --
"The Price Of Freedom
     Is Not Free"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 16:30:45 -0700 (MST)
From: [e-mail] (BRUCE S. DE LIS)
Subject: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy

Just finished reading a letter from a friend who is a better than fairly good Bl
ack Powder target shooter, he maybe be out to the Winter Nationals here next week
 to do his best to win some of the prizes in some of the events.  He shoots most
the primitive matches, and is one H*** of a shot.  Shoots nothing bigger than .45
 Calibers, but .38-.40 Caliber are his favorites.  Anyway back a while I ask him
why all of these real good target shooter, who shoot Primitive and the non primit
ive events shoot mostly with the smaller calibers, like .38-.45 Calibers.  I am t
alking about Non-Bench rifles, and I am also talking about Off-Hand Shooting.  We
ll I am no tech no whiz, but the words "More Consistency Keeps Coming Up In His L
etter.  Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such good consis
tent, accurate with a .50, .54  or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as you can wi
th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball on Calm Non-Windy Days.

B

- --
"The Price Of Freedom
     Is Not Free"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:56:52 -0600
From: Glenn Darilek <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy

One factor may be that many competitive black powder shoots require the
hole in the target to be entirely within the ring to be counted as in
the ring.  The smaller caliber has an advantage in that if the 38
caliber is just inside the line, a 54 caliber shot in the same spot
would be touching the line and would be scored at the next lower ring.
Not much difference, but in competition it can add up.

On another shooting subject - has anyone ever tried having a tie breaker
in black powder shooting in which using a flintlock would break the tie
with a percussion, and using fixed sights would break a tie with one
using adjustable sights.  This seems inherently fair, and promotes
authentic period shooting.

If no one has heard of this, maybe I can claim the idea.

Glenn Darilek
Iron Burner

BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote:
> Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such good consis
> tent, accurate with a .50, .54  or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as you can wi
> th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 07:01:01 -0600
From: "larry pendleton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy

Bruce,
  There is at least one very good reason. Velocity.  You can very easily
get enough velocity out of the smaller calibers, to enable them to shoot
virtually flat out to one hundred yards and beyond. This eliminates the
guess work of holding over or under the ten ring. Since competive shooting
is in large part a mental game, this allows you to concentrate on the site
picture without having to think about allowing for elevation. Most of the
oldtimers who shot in the big time matches prefered the smaller calibers.
Things haven't changed a bit. If you can, get hold of a copy of THE MUZZLE
LOADING CAPLOCK RIFLE by NED ROBERTS. It is a great source of information
on competive shooting. This is the same Ned Roberts who perfected the .257
Roberts cartridge.
Pendleton

- ----------
> From: BRUCE S. DE LIS <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy
> Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 5:30 PM
>
>
>
> Just finished reading a letter from a friend who is a better than fairly
good Bl
> ack Powder target shooter, he maybe be out to the Winter Nationals here
next week
>  to do his best to win some of the prizes in some of the events.  He
shoots most
> the primitive matches, and is one H*** of a shot.  Shoots nothing bigger
than .45
>  Calibers, but .38-.40 Caliber are his favorites.  Anyway back a while I
ask him
> why all of these real good target shooter, who shoot Primitive and the
non primit
> ive events shoot mostly with the smaller calibers, like .38-.45 Calibers.
 I am t
> alking about Non-Bench rifles, and I am also talking about Off-Hand
Shooting.  We
> ll I am no tech no whiz, but the words "More Consistency Keeps Coming Up
In His L
> etter.  Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such
good consis
> tent, accurate with a .50, .54  or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as
you can wi
> th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball on Calm Non-Windy Days.
>
> B
>
> --
> "The Price Of Freedom
>      Is Not Free"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 19:31:06 -0600
From: "William S. Jones" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston

Ron, I don't post very often, but I did happen to read your post about John
Johnston. I gather that you are not an AMM member, or you would likely know
that this brother was again disinterred a number of years ago, and reburied
by members of AMM, with Robert Redford assisting in carrying the remains, to
a place far more compatible with the adventurous spirit of this legendary
mountain man.

Also, before you float this page for too long, you may want to run it
through a spell checker. I didn't have a chance to read all of it, but
noticed toward the ending, the transposed letters "ot" instead of "to".
This, combined with the inaccuracy of his final resting place tips me off
that there may be other mistakes/misspellings.

Please understand that your effort is greatly appreciated, and the above is
meant solely to be constructive in nature.


Bill Jones
"Waffalo"
Hiveranno, AMM # 907
Past KY Bde. Booshway

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail]
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Ron Chamberlain
Sent: Monday, February 08, 1999 1:07 AM
To: Longtrail; Mt-Man list
Subject: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston


Hello the list!

I finally got the article about J. Johnston done and posted on my website.
You can read it at:
<http://www.ida.net/users/cstmzd/Johnston.html>
or there is a link from my Clubs page below. If you would like this article
zipped contact me OFFLIST and I will email. Zip is in Wordpad .doc format.

Thank you Longtrail and TetonTod for the help!!!

Enjoy!
YMOS
Ron
AKA Lonewolf





Lewis Fork Free Trappers
<http://www.ida.net/users/cstmzd/trappers.html>
email: [e-mail]
ICQ #26140332

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 17:42:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Lee Newbill <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List:blood poision

Greg

On Mon, 8 Feb 1999, greg n bosen wrote:
> is this from exposure to the bacteria of a rotten hide or can this accure
> with a sweet smelling hide too?

When your working with the braintan (fleshing, dehairing and such), it
doesn't take much for a hide to attract bacteria and the natural process
of decompostion to begin (smelllll bad).  The blood poisioning
comes in when you have an opening on your hand such as a cut, scrape, or
chapped skin, and you place it on the hide that has the bacteria on it.
In essence, you are now infected with the same bacteria that are eating
the dead deer hide.

A rather unpleasant thought.

Regards

Lee Newbill of Viola, Idaho
NMLRA member 058863
email at [e-mail]
Keeper of the "Buckskins & Blackpowder!" Webpage
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/7186


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 19:20:12 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy

I have been around major shooters most of my life, many from the black
powder ranks like Ron Long (2 or 3 time Olympic BP Champ), the Furlows and
Don Davis to name a few. Long will shoot a 40 cal. with no wind and a 50
cal. with a little wind. These guys as many, don't worry about touching a
scoring ring and if they do they consider it a miss, of course they shoot
49XXXX and 50 XXXXX targets, one right after another. I've seen Long at the
Colorado State and New Mexico State Championships (many years in a row)
shoot those type of scores with flint and prec. in larger calibers also.

So as far as looking for an advantage in one cal. over another, size, speed
or whatever, the really super shots, just practice a little more and do not
worry about some of the ideas other shotters are looking at. A book on
shooting muzzleloaders called, "MUZZLE LOADING SHOOTING & WINNING WITH THE
CHAMPIONS" talks about this and more, written by some old timers that have
turned Friendship around with their scores over the years, like
M.Vickery-W.Terry-B.Butcher-W.Grote-B.Carmichael- D.Davis-P.Allan-W.Boughton
to name a few.

Saw a match against high power cart. rifles w/scopes, the muzzleloaders won
the 25 yd., 50 yd. bench and offhand matches hand down, and took 5 out of 12
of the 100 yd. matches with 50 cal. guns, these were all top notch shooters
on both teams. Bet those high power boys did some more practice on the
shorter ranges after that shoot.

Buck
____________________-
- -----Original Message-----
From: Glenn Darilek <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy


>One factor may be that many competitive black powder shoots require the
>hole in the target to be entirely within the ring to be counted as in
>the ring.  The smaller caliber has an advantage in that if the 38
>caliber is just inside the line, a 54 caliber shot in the same spot
>would be touching the line and would be scored at the next lower ring.
>Not much difference, but in competition it can add up.
>
>On another shooting subject - has anyone ever tried having a tie breaker
>in black powder shooting in which using a flintlock would break the tie
>with a percussion, and using fixed sights would break a tie with one
>using adjustable sights.  This seems inherently fair, and promotes
>authentic period shooting.
>
>If no one has heard of this, maybe I can claim the idea.
>
>Glenn Darilek
>Iron Burner
>
>BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote:
>> Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such good consis
>> tent, accurate with a .50, .54  or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as
you can wi
>> th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 22:18:20 -0600
From: "Glenn Darilek" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy

Those guys are surely some fine shots, and I am sure they must practice
more, and have more God-given talent than most.  But the question was "why
do they prefer the smaller calibers?"  If practice was the only factor, they
would shoot the larger calibers as well.  Am I wrong about the rules?  In
effect, the smaller caliber provides a smaller X circle.  It would be
foolish trying to hit an X circle that was smaller than your caliber.  Does
the book say anything about this?

Glenn Darilek
Iron Burner

- -----Original Message-----
From: Barry Conner <[e-mail]>
>
>So as far as looking for an advantage in one cal. over another, size, speed
>or whatever, the really super shots, just practice a little more and do not
>worry about some of the ideas other shotters are looking at. A book on
>shooting muzzleloaders called, "MUZZLE LOADING SHOOTING & WINNING WITH THE
>CHAMPIONS" talks about this and more, written by some old timers that have
>turned Friendship around with their scores over the years, like
>M.Vickery-W.Terry-B.Butcher-W.Grote-B.Carmichael-
D.Davis-P.Allan-W.Boughton
>to name a few.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 03:03:22 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat

In a message dated 99-02-08 10:19:40 EST, you write:

<< First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona.  May question has
to d
 o with Wooden Rifle Stocks,  >>

I live in Las Vegas NV, so our climate isn't much different.  Ive had excelent
luck with oiling my stocks with either Wahkon Bay's "Tru-coat" stock finish or
my own version of it.  I make mine out of boiled linseed oil & turpentine --
50 - 50 mix.  The "Tru-coat" smells strongly of turpentine & feels like it's
got linseed oil in it.  The oils you've been using are petroleum based -- a
"no - no" on wood.  If you make some up, be sure you use real turpentine, not
that synthetic crap -- it doesn't work -- I've tried it.  This mix is a period
combination & still works better than anything else I've found.  John Cramer,
who posts here regularly, is very knowledgable on wood finishing with the old
methods.  One of his mixes is equal parts linseed oil, turpentine, & vinegar
(cider vinegar preferably) -- & it works well -- again -- I've tried it -- I
finished my North Star trade gun with it.  He recomends buying raw linseed &
boiling your own -- I haven't tried that -- yet.  I'd recently gotten some
antique wood body wood planes & bringing them out here from NW MO had them
starting to crack.  A 48 hr soak in his 3 part mix stopped the damage & even
tightened up the loose handles.  One of these planes was my Great-great
Grandad's & it's aproximately 110 yrs old -- I'd have realy hated to see it
reduced to a pile of splinters, which was where it was headed.  A couple of
months ago, I sharpened one of the planes up & tried using it.  After I finaly
got it set right, it worked better than my metal Stanley.  I noticed when
sharpening it, it had the typical period blade -- wrought iron with a thin
steel layer forge welded to it -- the hard steel layer definitely visable
against the iron body.  When working with wood, the better finishes are
vegetable based, not petroleum.

  The suggestion of using a guitar humidifier will cause you rusting problems
if you don't use rust inhibiting oils on your metal parts & you'll have to be
sure your barrel is squeeky clean & oiled after every time you shoot.  ANY B/P
residue coupled with humidity is almost instant rust -- you can have a severe
problem within 24 hrs.

When you first get your rifle, oil it down & when it starts to look a little
dull, re-oil it.  If it's unfinished, that may be as quick as 30 min, but a
well oiled stock seems to need a fresh coat about every 4 - 6 months here.
You can request an oil finish, & I don't know too many builders who won't
comply.  After several years, the finish will build up to where it looks like
it's a foot deep right after an oiling.  IF you get too much oil on it, it'll
be a bit tacky after 24 hrs -- no problem -- go over it LIGHTLY with 00 or 000
steel wool.  Don't forget to oil the barrel channel & lock mortise at least
every 6 months.  One thing I realy like about the oil finish is if you get a
ding or scratch, just re-oil it & it blends right in.  I got a nasty gouge in
my favorite rifle stock -- 2 yrs later, the gouge is still there, but it's a
finished gouge with the same sheen as the rest of the stock so it doesn't
stick out like a sore thumb any more.  Every rifle & trade gun I have are oil
finished.  I've even sanded down my Lyman Great Plains & oiled it (also
stripped off the bluing & browned all the iron).  Since I switched to the oil
finish about 8 years ago, I haven't had any dry wood problems.

NM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:29:44 -0500
From: "Scott Janzen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Brain Tan

Don't worry Matt, the first hide I tanned was a calf hide in the Mojave
desert in July. Yes it stinks. I was just waiting for the neighbors to call
the police to find the dead body in my garage! I would not recommend doing
this activity (in that place during summer).
Kid!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt and Sarah Mitchell <[e-mail]>

>They had a definite rotted smell. First question, is this the norm
>there is obvious
>decomposition starting here.(smells really really bad)
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:58:49 -0500
From: "Scott Janzen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: Capotes & stuff...

Can one of y'all tell me the correct pronunciation of "Capote"? Is it
"ka-pote" or "ka-potee"?
This has been bugging me for a while...
Kid!
PS: late winter work continues with the production of outfits. I found a
great sale at a fabric store in Manassas on wool. It seems now is the time
to buy as the places get rid of their Fall and Winter stockages. Go check it
out.
PPS: can anyone point me in the direction of coat styles for 1800-1810 St.
Louis? I know there could be influences from many styles; American, French,
Spanish, Indian... Where might I find some representative pictures of
various classes' dress there, then?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 01:13:27 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: trade blanket items

 I am looking forward to going to rendezvous(my 2nd) again this summer.
Iwould like to have a trade blanket

------------------------------

End of hist_text-digest V1 #233
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