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From: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com (hist_text-digest)
To: hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: hist_text-digest V1 #231
Reply-To: hist_text
Sender: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
hist_text-digest Friday, February 5 1999 Volume 01 : Number 231
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 10:29:22 EST
From: GMECPA@aol.com
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: hist_text-digest V1 #230
Has anyone heard of a trapper WILLIAM HENRY GANTT in Roaring Fork Valley in
Colorado ca. 1830's or 1840's?
Lynne Gantt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 09:36:56 -0700
From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: RE: MtMan-List: mtn.men, they never got lost, just mighty confuse d for a while
Interesting question about compasses. My impression is that in the Canadian
fur trade, 1774-1821, compasses were present but not common, and probably
mostly used by "gentlemen", i.e. clerks, factors, and wintering partners
(who were usually the explorers, e.g. David Thompson, Alexander Mackenzie,
Simon Fraser, Peter Fidler).
Here's some quotes:
1760, Alexander Henry the Elder: "...the snow...prevented us, at times, from
discovering the land, and consequently (for compass we had none), from
pursuing, with certainty, our course." (Bain ed., p. 9)
1797-1798, David Thompson, Mandan villages: "...none of the Men knew the use
of the Compass, and did not like to trust it." (Thompson Narrative, 161)
(Thompson was travelling with an ex-soldier and seven voyageurs.)
1805, F.-A. Larocque: "Went down to the American Fort [Fort Mandan] to get
my compass put in order, the glass being broken and the needle not pointing
north....Capt. Lewis fixed my compass very well, which took him a whole day."
I have many stories about Canadian fur traders getting lost, but I'm sure
there aren't any about Mountain Men, right guys?
Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net
------------------------------
Date: 03 Feb 99 16:50:01 -0700
From: Phyllis and Don Keas <pdkeas@market1.com>
Subject: MtMan-List: Baking Soda
My memory is gone. Didn't someone say to put a teaspoon of baking soda
in linseed oil to nuetralize the acids before using oil to waterproof
cloth? Or am I losing it?
DON AND PHYLLIS KEAS ---LIving History Consultants
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 19:37:38 -0800
From: Tom Roberts <troberts@gdi.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Baking Soda
Don't know about baking soda but I can tell you from recent experience with
boiled linseed oil on canvas that unless you use a drying agent, it can
take up to twelve days to reach a state where it is no longer tacky to the
touch. Would love to find something to neutralize the odor.
Phyllis and Don Keas wrote:
> My memory is gone. Didn't someone say to put a teaspoon of baking soda
> in linseed oil to nuetralize the acids before using oil to waterproof
> cloth? Or am I losing it?
>
> DON AND PHYLLIS KEAS ---LIving History Consultants
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 16:44:42 -0800
From: RANDAL J BUBLITZ <randybublitz@juno.com>
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: hist_text-digest V1 #230
Lynne, there is a John Gantt listed in (has a whole chapter) Hafen's
'Trappers of the Far West" ; ISBN 0-8032-7218-9 . Hope this helps
Hardtack
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 17:28:34 -0800
From: Roger Lahti <lahtirog@gte.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Baking Soda
Phyllis and Don Keas wrote:
> My memory is gone. Didn't someone say to put a teaspoon of baking soda
> in linseed oil to nuetralize the acids before using oil to waterproof
> cloth? Or am I losing it?
Don,
I've heard of doing that too but never found the need with "Boiled Linseed
Oil". Won't hurt anything. As to the odor, I found that it worked better to
thin with something like turpentine, etc. so I wasn't putting so much
linseed oil in the cloth. Doesn't take that much oil, about 50%-50% is
fine. I add a pound of bee's wax to a three lb coffee can about half full
of linseed oil and a small tube of burnt umber oil paint to give a bit of
color (which might take the place of the baking soda). Mix it hot over a
stove with all due care and then thin with thinner off the stove outside.
Place cloth on plastic and roll mix on with a paint roller. Uses just
enough without the mess of trying to paint it on while hanging (which would
work if you want to go to the trouble). I hang it in the sun and on windy
warm days it will dry in about a week or so. I know, your not supposed to
do it in the sun but I have not had any problems. You might turn it every
few days. I remain......
YMOS
Capt. Lahti'
>
>
------------------------------
Date: 03 Feb 99 21:07:25 -0700
From: Phyllis and Don Keas <pdkeas@market1.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Baking Soda
Roger - I thank you sir. Really helped. I just could not remember
about adding baking soda or not, but will try it your way and see. Thanks.
DON AND PHYLLIS KEAS ---LIving History Consultants
Roger Lahti wrote:
>
>
>Phyllis and Don Keas wrote:
>
>> My memory is gone. Didn't someone say to put a teaspoon of baking
soda
>> in linseed oil to nuetralize the acids before using oil to waterproof
>> cloth? Or am I losing it?
>
>Don,
>
>I've heard of doing that too but never found the need with "Boiled
Linseed
>Oil". Won't hurt anything. As to the odor, I found that it worked better
to
>thin with something like turpentine, etc. so I wasn't putting so much
>linseed oil in the cloth. Doesn't take that much oil, about 50%-50% is
>fine. I add a pound of bee's wax to a three lb coffee can about half
full
>of linseed oil and a small tube of burnt umber oil paint to give a bit
of
>color (which might take the place of the baking soda). Mix it hot over a
>stove with all due care and then thin with thinner off the stove
outside.
>Place cloth on plastic and roll mix on with a paint roller. Uses just
>enough without the mess of trying to paint it on while hanging (which
would
>work if you want to go to the trouble). I hang it in the sun and on
windy
>warm days it will dry in about a week or so. I know, your not supposed
to
>do it in the sun but I have not had any problems. You might turn it
every
>few days. I remain......
>
>YMOS
>Capt. Lahti'
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>RFC822 header
>-----------------------------------
>
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>Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 17:28:34 -0800
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>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:58:19 EST
From: ThisOldFox@aol.com
Subject: MtMan-List: 19th Cent Photos online
I just received the following and many of you may be interested in it. The
site looks very promising.
OldFox
..............................................................................
..........................
The Denver Public Library has opened its site,
http://gowest.coalliance.org which contains more than 50,000 historic
photographs online. An additional 45,000 images will be added by the
summer of 2000. The database contains images of Native Americans,
pioneers, gold miners, railroads, and small town life -- much of it
19th century material.
Raymond Clark
Project Director
303-640-6322
rclark@denver.lib.co.us
------------------------------
Date: 03 Feb 99 21:16:17 -0700
From: Phyllis and Don Keas <pdkeas@market1.com>
Subject: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
Thanks for the answers back. After reading the one about the mixing over
the stove, my wife made a avery simple suggestion that makes me ashamed I
didn't think of it. She said don't mix it over a stove, put it in a
crock pot. If you're wife doesn't want you to use her good one, buy an old
one at a garage sale. Definately much safer than a stove.
Why didn't I think of that? Bless that woman if she saves someone from
getting hurt.
DON AND PHYLLIS KEAS ---LIving History Consultants
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:21:43 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <rat@htcomp.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: 19th Cent Photos online
Outstanding!! Thanks a million.
Lanney Ratcliff, Texian
- -----Original Message-----
From: ThisOldFox@aol.com <ThisOldFox@aol.com>
To: hist_text@xmission.com <hist_text@xmission.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:08 PM
Subject: MtMan-List: 19th Cent Photos online
>I just received the following and many of you may be interested in it. =
The
>site looks very promising.
>
>OldFox
>........................................................................=
......
>..........................
>The Denver Public Library has opened its site,
> http://gowest.coalliance.org which contains more than 50,000 =
historic
> photographs online. An additional 45,000 images will be added by =
the
> summer of 2000. The database contains images of Native Americans,
> pioneers, gold miners, railroads, and small town life -- much of =
it
> 19th century material.
>
> Raymond Clark
> Project Director
> 303-640-6322
> rclark@denver.lib.co.us
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 23:23:02 -0500
From: jlynch@bcm.tmc.edu
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: hist_text-digest V1 #230
i saw a film once where a man called "zachary 'bass'" was left for dead
on a fur venture in the 1820's by a "captain 'henry'". this may have
somethin to do with it. the history channel has this story "man in the
wilderness".
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:08:08 -0800
From: RANDAL J BUBLITZ <randybublitz@juno.com>
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: hist_text-digest V1 #230
jlynch, This was loosely based on the Hugh Glass Saga. Mauled by a bear,
left for dead, crawled to recovery. Read 'The Saga of Hugh Glass' by
John Myers Myers ISBN # 0-8032-5834-8 Hardtack
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 05:51:34 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <buck.conner@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
Don,
Years ago a friend here in Colorado (won't mention name, many know him), was
cooking up a solution of linseed oil and beeswax mixture for a water sealer
on his kitchen stove. His son was about 12 and studdered, couldn't say 10
words without studdering.
Anyway we're loading ammo in the garage for the blackpowder cartrige shoot
at Raton, the kid is in the kitchen, the mixture boils over. Suddenly the
garage door opens and the kid is saying something about a fire, I can't
figure what the heck he's saying. The boys looks behind him into the kitchen
and comes out loud and clear "you damn mess is burning the frecking kitchen
down", not one word was studdered.
This mixture of linseed and beeswax really did a number on that kitchen, off
course the amount of water we put on that fire didn't help matters either.
Like you say be damn careful with heating in an open pot, even with a lid.
Buck
PS
That kid is grown and married now and the shock treatment with boiling
linseed didn't work he still stud-studd-studders
____________________________
- -----Original Message-----
From: Phyllis and Don Keas <pdkeas@market1.com>
To: History Text <hist_text@xmission.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 9:15 PM
Subject: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
>Thanks for the answers back. After reading the one about the mixing over
>the stove, my wife made a avery simple suggestion that makes me ashamed I
>didn't think of it. She said don't mix it over a stove, put it in a
>crock pot. If you're wife doesn't want you to use her good one, buy an old
>one at a garage sale. Definately much safer than a stove.
>Why didn't I think of that? Bless that woman if she saves someone from
>getting hurt.
>
>DON AND PHYLLIS KEAS ---LIving History Consultants
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 10:02:44 -0800
From: Roger Lahti <lahtirog@gte.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
Barry Conner wrote:
> Don,
>
> Years ago a friend here in Colorado (won't mention name, many know him), was
> cooking up a solution of linseed oil and beeswax mixture for a water sealer
> on his kitchen stove. ------------
>
> This mixture of linseed and beeswax really did a number on that kitchen, off
> course the amount of water we put on that fire didn't help matters either.
> Like you say be damn careful with heating in an open pot, even with a lid.
>
> Buck
Buck,
Thanks for the story that drives home the point that this can be dangerous. I
would recommend that if you wish to try this recipe that you do it outside, stay
with it constantly, do not cover it with a lid so you can see what is going on
in the pot and have a way to cover the pot if it flames up (the best way to put
out the fire) and a way to safely remove the pot from the heat or the heat from
the pot.
As an afterthought (wish I had thought of this earlier) you probably can achieve
the same results by doing things a little backward form what was originally
proposed and make it a lot safer operation. It will take longer but you can
dissolve the bee's wax in the thinner, then stir in the oil paint, baking soda
(if you use it) and linseed oil into the thinner and bee's wax mix. This should
allow the complete mix of all ingredients. If not, see above safety steps. Hope
this helps, I remain......
YMOS
Capt. Lahti'
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 20:08:13 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <buck.conner@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
Roger,
We used this mixture for years on old canvas and other used items that have
become worn and the fabric seemed porous, worked good to fill in the fine
spaces in the weave, but would collect dirt fairly easy with the beeswax
mixture, in warm weather could get a little greasey, winter a little stiff.
But it still made the item serviceable and was still being used, as our
forefathers would have done. Just part of using what you got and making do.
Buck
________________
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Lahti <lahtirog@gte.net>
To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com <hist_text@lists.xmission.com>
Date: Thursday, February 04, 1999 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
>
>
>Barry Conner wrote:
>
>> Don,
>>
>> Years ago a friend here in Colorado (won't mention name, many know him),
was
>> cooking up a solution of linseed oil and beeswax mixture for a water
sealer
>> on his kitchen stove. ------------
>>
>> This mixture of linseed and beeswax really did a number on that kitchen,
off
>> course the amount of water we put on that fire didn't help matters
either.
>> Like you say be damn careful with heating in an open pot, even with a
lid.
>>
>> Buck
>
>Buck,
>
>Thanks for the story that drives home the point that this can be dangerous.
I
>would recommend that if you wish to try this recipe that you do it outside,
stay
>with it constantly, do not cover it with a lid so you can see what is going
on
>in the pot and have a way to cover the pot if it flames up (the best way to
put
>out the fire) and a way to safely remove the pot from the heat or the heat
from
>the pot.
>
>As an afterthought (wish I had thought of this earlier) you probably can
achieve
>the same results by doing things a little backward form what was originally
>proposed and make it a lot safer operation. It will take longer but you can
>dissolve the bee's wax in the thinner, then stir in the oil paint, baking
soda
>(if you use it) and linseed oil into the thinner and bee's wax mix. This
should
>allow the complete mix of all ingredients. If not, see above safety steps.
Hope
>this helps, I remain......
>
>YMOS
>Capt. Lahti'
>
>>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 22:29:30 -0400
From: bspen@aye.net (Bob Spencer)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
>We used this mixture for years on old canvas and other used items that have
>become worn and the fabric seemed porous, worked good to fill in the fine
>spaces in the weave, but would collect dirt fairly easy with the beeswax
>mixture, in warm weather could get a little greasey, winter a little stiff.
I've waterproofed canvas using linseed oil, but never used beeswax in it.
The formula I used was simply boiled linseed oil and iron oxide powder.
Iron oxide comes in two forms, a yellow and a rust brown. Both are used in
making pottery glazes, and can be had in bulk at pottery making shops. The
iron oxide acts as the filler, fills the pores in the fabric, and is
important in the process. I never heated the linseed oil, and don't quite
understand why you guys are doing that. Boiling your own?
I have a ground cloth which has given me excellent service for 8 years, has
never leaked a drop in the hardest rain, and is still going strong. It is
only now showing the first signs of becoming a little tacky.
I've also used pure beeswax for waterproofing items like my haversack. That
works very well, and is easy to do. That sack is 8 years old, has been
carried many a mile, and has never needed to be re-treated. Beeswax used in
that way tends to crack after a time, but it's a simple thing to hold the
bag near the fire and let the wax melt and redistribute itself, healing all
wounds. Beeswax certainly is much more stiff than dried linseed oil,
especially in cold weather, but on items such as my haversack, that creates
no problem. I would think it could on a groundcloth, even in low
concentration.
Bob
Bob Spencer <bspen@aye.net>
non illegitimi carborundum est
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:44:25 -0800
From: "Gail Carbiener" <carbg@cmc.net>
Subject: MtMan-List: Rifle: wooden stock
Need to put some oil or other substance on the stock of an old flintlock
rifle. Problem is it sits in a museum display where we have trouble with
mice and bugs! Any suggestions on a "non-bug" "non-mouse" soultion for a dry
stock?
Gail
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 19:48:06 -0800
From: Roger Lahti <lahtirog@gte.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Linseed Oil
Bob Spencer wrote: .
I never heated the linseed oil, and don't quite understand why you guys are
doing that. Boiling your own?
Bob,
No need to heat it unless you want to get some wax to melt in it but since you
don't do that you have no need to heat it. The linseed oil I use comes already
boiled. If I were using it straight, I would not heat it either. I might still
thin it with Turpentine but that's my way.
My ground cloth, made of muslin, was treated with linseed oil, bee's wax and oil
paint (for color). It is not that stiff and has held up for about six seasons
now. For such light fabric, it is holding up quit well and doesn't leak either.
My knap sack and haversack are treated with just bee's wax like yours and both
do a good job of keeping things inside dry. I would not treat them with linseed
oil or paint as a buddy has because that would make them stiff.
I guess we have had different experiences. I remain......
YMOS
Capt. Lahti'
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 21:02:31 -0700
From: "landis" <aslandis@wa.freei.net>
Subject: MtMan-List: Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:57:36 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01BE5078.9CB29740
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
hey guys,
I'm terry's(mt.man)brother. he said you might be able to help me? I'm =
looking for a rifle in the $500.00 range any info would help
=
thanks
=
adam
- ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01BE5078.9CB29740
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>hey guys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm terry's(mt.man)brother. he said you might be =
able to help=20
me? I'm looking for a rifle in the $500.00 range any info would=20
help</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; =20
thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; =20
adam</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
- ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01BE5078.9CB29740--
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 20:07:51 -0800
From: Roger Lahti <lahtirog@gte.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:57:36 -0800
- --------------E678DE82721275D307F31B63
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
landis wrote:
> hey guys,I'm terry's(mt.man)brother. he said you might be able to
> help me? I'm looking for a rifle in the $500.00 range any info would
> help
> thanks
> adam
> Adam,
>
> Sorry to hear that. You have our simpathies. <G> What did you have in
> mind? I'm sure there are lots of ideas for good guns in that range but
> you got to narrow it down some. Are you willing to build a kit? Style?
> Flint? Caliber? I remain....
>
> YMOS
> Capt. lahti'
- --------------E678DE82721275D307F31B63
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML>
<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
<P>landis wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE> <FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>hey guys,</FONT></FONT><FONT SIZE=-1>I'm
terry's(mt.man)brother. he said you might be able to help me? I'm looking
for a rifle in the $500.00 range any info would help</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1>
thanks</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1>
adam</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>Adam,</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1></FONT>
<P><FONT SIZE=-1>Sorry to hear that. You have our simpathies. <G> What
did you have in mind? I'm sure there are lots of ideas for good guns in
that range but you got to narrow it down some. Are you willing to build
a kit? Style? Flint? Caliber? I remain....</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1></FONT>
<P><FONT SIZE=-1>YMOS</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>Capt. lahti'</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
</BODY>
</HTML>
- --------------E678DE82721275D307F31B63--
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 20:27:29 -0800
From: "landis" <aslandis@wa.freei.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:57:36 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BE507C.C95DFF60
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Lahti <lahtirog@gte.net>
To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com <hist_text@lists.xmission.com>
Date: Thursday, February 04, 1999 8:09 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:57:36 -0800
=20
=20
=20
landis wrote:=20
hey guys,I'm terry's(mt.man)brother. he said you might be able =
to help me? I'm looking for a rifle in the $500.00 range any info would =
help =
thanks =
adam=20
Adam,=20
Sorry to hear that. You have our simpathies. <G> What did you =
have in mind? I'm sure there are lots of ideas for good guns in that =
range but you got to narrow it down some. Are you willing to build a =
kit? Style? Flint? Caliber? I remain....=20
YMOS=20
Capt. lahti'
thanks for the sympathy, i deal wity it prett good now. .58cal =
lock may not matter,prefer complete
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>Roger Lahti <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:lahtirog@gte.net">lahtirog@gte.net</A>><BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:hist_text@lists.xmission.com">hist_text@lists.xmission.com=
</A>=20
<<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:hist_text@lists.xmission.com">hist_text@lists.xmission.com=
</A>><BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Thursday, February 04, 1999 8:09 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: =
MtMan-List:=20
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:57:36 -0800<BR><BR></DIV></FONT> =20
<P>landis wrote:=20
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE =3D CITE> <FONT color=3D#000000><FONT =
size=3D-1>hey=20
guys,</FONT></FONT><FONT size=3D-1>I'm terry's(mt.man)brother. =
he said you=20
might be able to help me? I'm looking for a rifle in the $500.00 =
range=20
any info would help</FONT><FONT=20
=
size=3D-1> &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; =20
thanks</FONT><FONT=20
=
size=3D-1> &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; =20
adam</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3D-1>Adam,</FONT><FONT =
size=3D-1></FONT>=20
<P><FONT size=3D-1>Sorry to hear that. You have our simpathies. =
<G>=20
What did you have in mind? I'm sure there are lots of ideas for =
good=20
guns in that range but you got to narrow it down some. Are you =
willing=20
to build a kit? Style? Flint? Caliber? I remain....</FONT><FONT=20
size=3D-1></FONT>=20
<P><FONT size=3D-1>YMOS</FONT> <BR><FONT size=3D-1>Capt.=20
lahti'</FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE> thanks for the sympathy, i deal =
wity it=20
prett good now. .58cal lock may not matter,prefer=20
complete</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 21:35:27 -0700 (MST)
From: delis@aztec.asu.edu (BRUCE S. DE LIS)
Subject: MtMan-List: Rifle Under $500.00
Check This Web-Site I think there were several Rifles For Sale
http://www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb261741
B
"hey guys,
I'm terry's(mt.man)brother. he said you might be able to help me? I'm =
looking for a rifle in the $500.00 range any info would help
adam"
- --
"The Price Of Freedom
Is Not Free"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 20:51:43 -0600
From: "Glenn Darilek" <llsi@texas.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: mtn.men, they never got lost, just mighty confuse d for a while
- -----Original Message-----
From: Angela Gottfred <agottfre@telusplanet.net>
>Interesting question about compasses. My impression is that in the Canadian
>fur trade, 1774-1821, compasses were present but not common, and probably
>mostly used by "gentlemen", i.e. clerks, factors, and wintering partners
>I have many stories about Canadian fur traders getting lost, but I'm sure
>there aren't any about Mountain Men, right guys?
In the Canadian Rockies the compass points some 20 degrees east of true
north. Could this explain why the compass was not trusted? Maybe this
could explain why some Canadians got lost. Anyway, because the magnetic
pole is in Canada, you can't blame your neighbors to the south. Surely they
must have checked the compass against Polaris to realize this difference.
This difference changes from year to year, but I guess it wasn't too much
different during the fur trade era. Does your husband know? I know he is
an accomplished celestial navigator.
Iron Burner
------------------------------
End of hist_text-digest V1 #231
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