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hist_text-digest       Monday, December 14 1998       Volume 01 : Number 190




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 10:11:18 -0500
From: Cynthia R Pierce <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: unsubscribe

unsubscribe  [e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:37:07 -0700
From: [e-mail] (Charlie P. Webb)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: CSMLA

Barry Conner,
I would like for you to contact me off list if possible.
my e-mail address is   [e-mail]
Thank you for your time.
C Webb

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:04:11 -0800
From: "G. Pedro Kinner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: unsubscribe



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:37:55 -0800
From: "Munroe Crutchley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: the price of nails....

> << Think about the name 4 penny 6penny 8 penny...I
>  have heard originals that they werename this due to the worth of a
>  nail of that particular size >>

I haven't been following the nail thread carefully, so this may have
already been mentioned: I heard somewhere that the "penny" designation of
nails referred to weight (i.e. pennyweight). Any comments?

Munroe Crutchley
Grants Pass, OR
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:22:52 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Tremont Nail Company

In a message dated 98-12-12 17:11:01 EST, you write:

<< Tremont Nail Company is America's oldest nail manufacturer.
 Well folks now you have the story, write them for a "Nail Card" and the next
project you can really nail it down. >>

I checked their web site & they said they're still using the same machinery to
make the nails they used in the mid to late 1800's.  The only major change has
been replacing the water wheel power with big electric motors about 1940.
Evidently a Co that believes in tradition!  They also have free catalogs for
all 3 companies in the Maze Group -- Maze, Stronghold, & Tremont.  Thanks for
sharing this -- it isn't all on the web site.  Sounds like a good source for
some of our period projects.

NM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:29:52 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: the price of nails....

From PENNYWEIGHT to PENNY (a small "d" indicates penny) Originally the terms
8d and 10d were used to denote prices of nails per hundred count. However,
due to the fluctuations of prices this significance was lost and the terms
were retained to designate sizes. Example 2d = 1 inch, 8d = 2 1/2 inch, 100d
=  8 inch.

Buck
________________
- -----Original Message-----
From: Munroe Crutchley <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: the price of nails....


>> << Think about the name 4 penny 6penny 8 penny...I
>>  have heard originals that they werename this due to the worth of a
>>  nail of that particular size >>
>
>I haven't been following the nail thread carefully, so this may have
>already been mentioned: I heard somewhere that the "penny" designation of
>nails referred to weight (i.e. pennyweight). Any comments?
>
>Munroe Crutchley
>Grants Pass, OR
>[e-mail]
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:31:53 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Tremont Nail Company

Have used their nails for years on my equipage, "lookers" thought they were
hand-made or originals, now the cats out of the bag.
Buck
___________
- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Tremont Nail Company


>In a message dated 98-12-12 17:11:01 EST, you write:
>
><< Tremont Nail Company is America's oldest nail manufacturer.
> Well folks now you have the story, write them for a "Nail Card" and the
next
>project you can really nail it down. >>
>
>I checked their web site & they said they're still using the same machinery
to
>make the nails they used in the mid to late 1800's.  The only major change
has
>been replacing the water wheel power with big electric motors about 1940.
>Evidently a Co that believes in tradition!  They also have free catalogs
for
>all 3 companies in the Maze Group -- Maze, Stronghold, & Tremont.  Thanks
for
>sharing this -- it isn't all on the web site.  Sounds like a good source
for
>some of our period projects.
>
>NM
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:34:36 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: CSMLA

What's up Charlie,

________________
- -----Original Message-----
From: Charlie P. Webb <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: CSMLA


>Barry Conner,
>I would like for you to contact me off list if possible.
>my e-mail address is   [e-mail]
>Thank you for your time.
>C Webb
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:11:32 -0800
From: [e-mail] (John C Funk)
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: tobacco...

Hello the list.

Is "mullen" the same plant as "mules ear"?  I know it is sometimes
confused as being the same...............but is there a consensus?

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:52:22 -0700
From: "Matt Richards" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: tobacco...

Question: Is mullein the same plant as mules ear?

No, they are totally unrelated. Mules ear is a native compositae (related to
sunflowers), mullein is a non-native and I'm not sure of its family. They do
look a bit similar in the spring before the stalks shoot up, as they both
have large leaves in a 'basal rosette' (meaning going out in all directions
from the same basic point, at the bottom of the plant). Mullein leaves are
very fuzzy.

Matt Richards
www.braintan.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:58:54 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Nail(s) and Thread reuse

In a message dated 98-12-11 21:17:49 EST, you write:

<< Some years ago at Williamsburg I was watching a nailmaking
 demonstration and asked the smith just what the various 'penny' sizes
 meant.  He told me that was the price per hundred nails.  6d being
 much smaller than 16d, so were cheaper.
  >>

In one of the old theatre text books I have in a box somewhere (scenery
construction) it said that the 6d = 100 6 penny nails based on weight for
weight.  And that that was based on the old English Penny which was a large
coin compared to our penny today.  I wish I could locate the text but there
are to many books in the storage room all boxed up to find it easily.

Your humble servant

C.T. Oakes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:47:33 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: IMPORTANT Cloth Yardage Facts

CLOTH YARDAGE FACTS

=09When working with fabric yardage it is necessary to square up the goods
before cutting out your pattern. The weaving process results in lengthwise=
 and
crosswise "yarns" (the threads used for weaving cloth are correctly called
yarns) intersecting at right angles.  When the fabric is released from the
loom after weaving the individual yarns relax in an irregular pattern caus=
ing
the angle of the intersecting yarns to be thrown out of alignment.  Washin=
g
the goods, as you did in pre washing your fabric, helps to realign the yar=
ns.

=09Your goal is to coax the lengthwise and crosswise edges of the cloth in=
to
perfect right angles before cutting out your garment pieces.  Here=92s why=
: If a
garment is cut "off grain" (with the grain running crooked) the finished
garment will twist awkwardly off to one side (crooked).  It will look
terrible, be extremely uncomfortable to wear, you will hate it, and there =
is
absolutely nothing you will ever be able to do to correct it.  Did you eve=
r
purchase a pair of denim jeans with one leg twisted off to the side whippi=
ng
around your leg and throwing the inseam and side seam off, and driving you
nuts because you could not get it straightened out?  (this has happened to=
 me
and is one of the BIG reasons I learned to draft my own jeans pattern and
started making my own jeans).

=09You will notice that your yardage has two selvage edges running paralle=
l to
the lengthwise of the fabric.  The two crosswise ends are raw edges.  Begi=
n by
truing (straightening) the raw edges.  This can be done in one of two ways=
.
One is to gently tear across the width of the fabric (selvage to selvage) =
as
close to the raw edge as is feasible (this is for the purpose of conservin=
g
fabric).  Make a crosswise snip through the selvage and tear gently,
repositioning your hands every few inches so as not to distort the fabric.
The fabric will automatically tear across the warp yarns adjacent to a wef=
t
yarn (the crosswise yarns in fabric running at right angles to the selvage
edge are called the "weft" with the lengthwise yarns running parallel to t=
he
selvage edge the "warp").

=09If your fabric is too thick to tear or not a basket type weave, you can=
 true
it using the second method which is to thread trace across the width of th=
e
fabric by pulling on a weft thread.  In essence, you will be removing a we=
ft
thread (yarn) which will leave a visible line (groove) that you can see to=
 cut
along from selvage to selvage.  Here=92s how it works: snip through the se=
lvage
and pick up a weft yarn.  Now pull.  This will probably break the thread.
Smooth the little gathers and you will see the cutting line (where the thr=
ead
was removed).  Cut along the groove.  When you come to the place where you=
r
previous thread popped and you can nor longer see your mark, spread your
fabric and pick up another thread and pull.  Continue the above process un=
til
you have reached the other selvage edge.

=09Now that your fabric is trued on both ends, you can square up the goods=
 (to
eliminate the twist in the yardage).  Spread your fabric on a table or
workbench.  If your goods are square, the diagonal measurements, taken
diagonally from corner to corner, in both directions, will measure equally=
.
If the goods are not square, one diagonal measurement will be longer than =
the
other.  If this is the case, you will have to make them even.

=09Fabric is unstable on the bias (bias is the diagonal that intersects th=
e
lengthwise and crosswise grains with true bias a 45 degree angle to any
straight edge when the grains are parallel).  Grab one of the short corner=
s
and reach across the goods (to the opposite selvage edge) and pull the goo=
ds
on the diagonal (working your way along the entire length of the goods)
stretching on the bias.  You can clamp the fabric using your foot if neede=
d.
Recheck using a carpenter square to determine if you are finished or if mo=
re
pulling is necessary.  After you are satisfied, you are ready to proceed.

=09Next time I will show you how to use your body measurements to draft a
rectangle shirt pattern that will be a custom fit!

Best Regards,
Andrea Moore, Sewing Designer   Sewing Design Company
[e-mail]





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:43:06 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: Body Measurements--yours not mine!

Dear Friends,

=09In an effort to keep moving along with the rectangle shirt project, I h=
ave
prepared the next two steps in the process.  For clarity, I will post them
separately in sequence.  If I have been unclear, please ask about it befor=
e we
move onto the next item(s).

MEASUREING UP!

=09We begin by taking a few minimal HONEST body measurements.  This is to =
insure
the success of your efforts and investment.  I will show you the process a=
nd
explain how it works.

=09We will have a total of 7 measurements.  On a piece of paper, create a
vertical column numbering 1 through 7 and label as follows:

1.  Shoulder to hem: Mid thigh
2.  Chest (body girth)
3.  Arm length (shoulder bone located at top of arm) to wrist with ARM BEN=
T
4.  Shoulder length (base of neck to shoulder bone)
5.  Neck (collar size)
6.  Top arm girth
7.  Hand size (the smallest loop through which the hand will pass freely)

=09With a flexible measuring tape begin by determining the desired length =
of the
finished garment.  From what I have seen most of the original MtMan cloth
shirts were long (mid thigh).  So your first measurement is from the top o=
f
the shoulder located at the crest of the arm down to the intended finished
bottom edge of the garment. Record this measurement with # 1.

=09Measurement #2 is around the fullest part of your body.  The goal here =
is to
get an accurate body girth measurement (whether that be chest, stomach, or
other).  Take the measurement by wrapping the tape around the fullest part=
 of
your body.  Slip your finger underneath the tape to allow some "give" to t=
he
reading.  Record your result with #2.

=09#3 is arm length from the shoulder bone to the wrist WITH THE ARM BENT.
Place your fist on your hip with your elbow pushed outward.  With the tape=
 at
the crest of the arm, outline the outside edge of the arm (around the elbo=
w)
and on down to the wrist.  Record your results with #3.

=09Measurement #4 is the shoulder length which is measured from the base o=
f the
neck to the shoulder bone.  Record your measurement with #4.

=09The neck measurement or collar size is #5.  This is taken where you lik=
e your
shirt collars to "sit."  Wrap the tape around your neck in a comfortable
fashion and record your result with #5.

=09The top arm girth is #6.  Wrap the tape comfortably around the fullest =
part
of your upper arm.  Record your findings with # 6.

=09Just one more measurement and we are through.  Hand size, #7 is taken b=
y
determining the smallest loop through which the hand will pass freely.  Re=
cord
under #7.

=09Please do not be concerned if you do not have convenient access to a fl=
exible
measuring tape.  This is the whole fun of making replica clothing=97to hav=
e the
opportunity to improvise!  Any type of string will do nicely by marking of=
f
the distance and using a straight edge to determine the correct length.

=09Next, we will discuss some important yardage facts after which I will s=
how
you how to use your body measurements to create a rectangle shirt pattern =
that
will fit you comfortably.

Regards,
Andrea Moore, Sewing Designer   Sewing Design Company
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:16:13 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: Some questions

Dear Friends,

    I just thought of a couple of things I would like to ask regarding the
capote:

    Where can I purchase wool blankets with an authentic Indian design rather
than the bold bands that I have seen?  This is not to criticize the colored
band(s) design, but rather I am interested in exploring other design options
as well.

    Was braintan used to accent the original wool blanket capotes, on yokes,
sleeves, fringe trim, other . . . how about beadwork?

    This is just slightly off-topic and I don't want to upset anyone on the list
by posting off-topic but I just have to ask, so please forgive . . . does
anyone know the step-by-step process for making hand made brooms from the
cultivation methods to the actual construction and lacing (materials used) of
the finished broom?  I saw what I believe to have been a hand made broom (some
time ago) leaning against a neighbor's shed, which had to have been hand made
as it had a very interesting appearance.  I speculate that everyone at one
time made their own brooms from broom straw???  If so, what is broom straw and
how does it differ from the common variety?  If anyone knows something about
this, I would love to hear about it.  Thank you.

    I just noticed that my recent (2) sewing posts will enter your mailbox, as
they did mine, in the wrong order--I should have numbered them.

Until later,
Andrea Moore
[e-mail]





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:45:44 -0500
From: "Mill, Kirk" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: MtMan-List: Some questions

>     Where can I purchase wool blankets with an authentic Indian design
> rather
> than the bold bands that I have seen?  This is not to criticize the
> colored
> band(s) design, but rather I am interested in exploring other design
> options
> as well.
>
    [Mill, Kirk]  and while we are on the subject, what is the proper
pronunciation of capote?
>     Was braintan used to accent the original wool blanket capotes, on
> yokes,
> sleeves, fringe trim, other . . . how about beadwork?
>
>     This is just slightly off-topic and I don't want to upset anyone on
> the list
> by posting off-topic but I just have to ask, so please forgive . . . does
> anyone know the step-by-step process for making hand made brooms from the
> cultivation methods to the actual construction and lacing (materials used)
> of
> the finished broom?  I saw what I believe to have been a hand made broom
> (some
> time ago) leaning against a neighbor's shed, which had to have been hand
> made
> as it had a very interesting appearance.  I speculate that everyone at one
> time made their own brooms from broom straw???  If so, what is broom straw
> and
> how does it differ from the common variety?  If anyone knows something
> about
> this, I would love to hear about it.  Thank you.
    [Mill, Kirk]  I got a book from the library tiltled IIRC Colonial
Crafts that had a very thorough description of broom making. If you are
interested, I can go back to the library for the exact title and ISBN, or I
could just photocopy the chapter.
    KirK Mill
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:35:53 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Some questions

Pictures of the Resv. Period Indians in the Museum of the Fur Trade
Quarterlies, show plain HBC and Witney "stripped blanket coats (capotes).
Seems the fur, leather and fancy bead work started after 1900.

Today you see all kinds of fancy beading, fur collars, etc. at rendezvous
and different events; from what I have been able to find (haven't looked
very hard though-not useable for traveling or working) most bead work on
wool is seen on blankets, like beaded blanket strips, the wearer holds the
blanket over the shoulders and pulled shut at the front.

The pictures of all the fancy bead work, leather trimmings and long fringe
like in some of Remington's works would never get off the front porch, the
wearer would be hog-tied a 100 yards from camp, when his beadwork or long
fringe got caught in the under brush. When you see this type of clothing ask
the wearer how far he has traveled in this get up, or how many times has he
slept in these fancy clothes; he will tell you these are his city clothes or
rendezvous outfit. We have all had these garments (can be very expensive),
and have traded them to others that just do the rendezvous and usually don't
wonder to far from the camp, you will never see them in a camp game that has
any kind of contact.

You may try Northwest Traders or the Blanket Brigrade for different colors
and designs of blankets, also Crazy Crow.

I sure other will have other ideas on this, so you will have to weigh
everthing, but research is the true answer and you may want to contact the
Museum of the Fur Trade for their idea on the subject.

Buck
dba/Clark & Sons Mercantile, Inc
http://www.teleport.com/~walking/clark/


- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 9:18 AM
Subject: MtMan-List: Some questions


>Dear Friends,
>
> I just thought of a couple of things I would like to ask regarding the
>capote:
>
> Where can I purchase wool blankets with an authentic Indian design rather
>than the bold bands that I have seen?  This is not to criticize the colored
>band(s) design, but rather I am interested in exploring other design
options
>as well.
>
> Was braintan used to accent the original wool blanket capotes, on yokes,
>sleeves, fringe trim, other . . . how about beadwork?
>
> This is just slightly off-topic and I don't want to upset anyone on the
list
>by posting off-topic but I just have to ask, so please forgive . . . does
>anyone know the step-by-step process for making hand made brooms from the
>cultivation methods to the actual construction and lacing (materials used)
of
>the finished broom?  I saw what I believe to have been a hand made broom
(some
>time ago) leaning against a neighbor's shed, which had to have been hand
made
>as it had a very interesting appearance.  I speculate that everyone at one
>time made their own brooms from broom straw???  If so, what is broom straw
and
>how does it differ from the common variety?  If anyone knows something
about
>this, I would love to hear about it.  Thank you.
>
> I just noticed that my recent (2) sewing posts will enter your mailbox, as
>they did mine, in the wrong order--I should have numbered them.
>
>Until later,
>Andrea Moore
>[e-mail]
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:54:06 -0700
From: "Matt Richards" <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: Andrea

I know we're not supposed to waste bandwidth just saying thanks, but Andrea,
wow thanks! This is great information.

Matt Richards
www.braintan.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:00:18 -0700
From: "Matt Richards" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Some questions

We get our capote blankets from army navy stores for this same reason, that
we prefer the more muted colors. Can't say that the coloring is authentic or
not though. But one can get really fluffy warm wool army blankets at the
northern army-navy stores.

Brooms---can't say I've ever made one from broom straw, but I do no a bit
about it. Broom straw is the tassels from a specific variety of corn known
as broom corn. You can get seeds for it from most heirloom seed companys,
such as Seeds of Change at www.seedsofchange.com . I've helped grow it, and
the cultivation is basically the same as for any type of corn (ie, likes
rich soil, light-frost hardy, etc.).

There are some craftspeople in Oregon who make traditional brooms from broom
straw....and they come in two natural straw colors....golden, and a
beautiful burnt red.

Thats all I know...

Matt Richards
www.braintan.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:58:17 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: Drafting the Pattern

Dear Friends,

    I have the drafting information ready and think I will send it along.  This
is all I will be able to do for a while as I have noticed that Christmas is
just around the corner and I have other deadlines to meet.  Let me know if
some of the information is not clear and I will help.

DRAFTING THE RECTANGLE SHIRT PATTERN

    I like snug fitting clothing, so I am giving you two design possibilities:
one for a generous shirt and one for a slightly more fitted garment--although
the cloth rectangle shirt is never considered close-fitting.  Begin with a
large rectangle which measures in length, 2 X the Shoulder to Hem
(corresponding to #1 on your body measurement chart).  For example, in my
case, my finished garment length measures 37 inches (measured from shoulder to
mid-thigh) so I will draw my rectangle 74 inches in length.  For the width,
you can utilize the selvage edges of your cloth goods and have an ample
garment or you can draw the width of the rectangle half the chest measurement
(#2 on your chart) + 6 inches or more to suit your tastes.

    Locate the (crosswise) center of your rectangle and sketch in the neck
opening. Figure the crosswise measurement Half the Neck Size (#5 on your
chart) and draw in a conservative oval shape.  The slit is positioned on the
garment front and measures 8 to 10 inches in length at the center.

    For the sleeve pattern (you will later cut two on the fold of the goods),
another rectangle, start with the length which corresponds to your arm length
(#3 on your chart).  The width, if you are using the selvage edges, is already
determined by the width of your goods.  If you want less fabric in your
sleeve, as I do, then draw the top width using measurement #6, Arm Girth + 6
inches (or more as desired).

    You can either leave the bottom of the sleeve full width of the rectangle as
established by the sleeve top measurement, or do as I did which is to taper
(to) the wrist.  I drew my wrist width Hand Size + 2 inches (#7 on my
measurement chart) centering the shorter measurement.  For more fullness at
the wrist, draw wider.

    Cut 2 gussets 8 inches square.

    If you are having trouble with the above instructions, I have prepared a
measurement chart and a diagram sheet for figuring your draft which will help
clarify the process.  Or you are welcome to ask for the assistance you need.
I am happy to send you copies if you send a return address and $2.00 to the
following:

Andrea Moore, Sewing Designer
Sewing Design Company
P. O. Box 20171
Spokane, WA 99204

PATTERN LAYOUT

    Fold your goods lengthwise meeting the selvage edges and lining up your
straightened raw edges.  Place your sleeve pattern lengthwise on the goods.
Now place your large rectangle pattern lengthwise on a single layer of goods.
Do not cut the opening for the head and front slit at this point.  You can cut
out your gussets now or wait.

    Next time we will discuss construction decisions.  Actually, I think it is a
good idea if you do not proceed to cut out your garment until we have
discussed construction.  I REALLY must be running along!  This should keep you
busy for awhile.

Best Regards,
Andrea Moore, Sewing Designer   Sewing Design Company
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:33:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Sam Keller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Rag Rugs (floor & bed)

I don't know if everyone did this, but an aunt of mine had an old rope
bottom bed and she had a braided rug between the ropes and her tick
(straw on bottom, and feather on top), this kept the ticks from
squeezing down between the ropes.




- [e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/11/98 8:20:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << Rag rugs were mentioned as being a way to recycle cloth various
articles
>  that I have read showed they were for the beds not the floor even
though
>  they were called rag rugs      interesting thought            >>
>
>     Interesting to me is rag rugs for the bed!  Were they used for
blankets and
> made similiar to rugs for the floor: tearing strips of cloth goods,
braiding
> and then whipping the edges to form a coil?  If this is the case,
the bed rugs
> would have been extremely heavy and thick.  Or were they perhaps
instead used
> as a matress pad or incorporated into the matress itself, or other?
I feel
> like I am missing something really obvious here and would like to
hear more
> about bed rugs, how they were made, intended purpose, how they
differed from
> their cousin the braided floor rug, etc.
>
> Best regards,
> Andrea Moore
>
>
>
>

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:07:54 -0500
From: "F.Vital" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Some questions

[e-mail] wrote:

>
>
>         This is just slightly off-topic and I don't want to upset anyone on the list
> by posting off-topic but I just have to ask, so please forgive . . . does
> anyone know the step-by-step process for making hand made brooms from the
> cultivation methods to the actual construction and lacing (materials used) of
> the finished broom?  I saw what I believe to have been a hand made broom (some
> time ago) leaning against a neighbor's shed, which had to have been hand made
> as it had a very interesting appearance.  I speculate that everyone at one
> time made their own brooms from broom straw???  If so, what is broom straw and
> how does it differ from the common variety?  If anyone knows something about
> this, I would love to hear about it.  Thank you.

the book "Indian Handcrafts" by C. Keith Wilbur shows how to make a broom from a large
branch.  The "straw" is acctually thinly split wood.

- --
Frank Vital

Mechanical Engineers design weapon systems.
Civil Engineers design targets.

http://www.auburn.edu/~vitalfr/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:43:15 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Some questions

White with black "strips" or "shoots" were the most common in 3 - 3 1/2 pt.
from the mid 1600's until the early 1800's, then traders demanded larger
blanks like 4 pts. and more color, like the green, blue, red, etc.

Buck
dba/Clark & Sons Mercantile, Inc.
http://www.teleport.com/~walking/clark/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Richards <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Some questions


>We get our capote blankets from army navy stores for this same reason, that
>we prefer the more muted colors. Can't say that the coloring is authentic
or
>not though...................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:28:38 -0800
From: Roger Lahti <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Some questions

Andrea,

I see that Barry Conner has given you some good advise on blankets but let me add my 2
cents in here. If you want to wear your blanket coat or capote (pronounced 'ka poat', as
in 'oat', in my part of the world) in town then Pendllton Woolen Mills makes "indian
design" blankets that are very colorful. They are not authentic to the pre 1840
re-enactment scene though. Whitney and other blanket makers make blankets with narrow
stripes rather than the broad stripes you wish to stay away form. They are called Chiefs
Blankets in the Panther Primitives catalogue. Again, the very colorful and geometric
design filled blankets available today don't have a place in the reenactment scene. The
same goes for the trimmings you were asking about. Barry made some good points on this
subject and again, unless you just want a fancy wool coat to wear on the ski slopes, a
capote should not be thus trimmed and decorated for the reenactment scene if
authenticity is a goal. It has been said by researchers that even fringe made from the
blanket material itself was not a normal feature on original capotes.

There is a picture of a beautiful wool coat,  being worn  by a white man, on the cover
of the book "Astoria" by Washington Irving. I don't know how authentic it is or whether
the artist just used a fertile imagination, but if I were going to make another coat for
my 1800's reenacting I think I would copy this coat. It has decoration but is much
different than what we usually think of as the way clothing was decorated on the
frontier.  It is also a much more well designed and fitted garment than the common
capote. It's not even "reservation era", with reference to  the bead work and leather
trim and fringe that Barry talked about. See if you can find a copy of the book.

Remember that Indians got their blankets from europeans during this time and there were
not a lot of  "design options". Wide bands, narrow bands, and perhaps no bands but
nothing else that I am aware of. I hope this has been clarifying, I remain.......


YMOS
Capt. Lahti'

[e-mail] wrote:

> Dear Friends,
>
>         I just thought of a couple of things I would like to ask regarding the
> capote:
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:58:36 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: A few items . . .

=09I would like to clarify a couple of items before we go any farther rega=
rding
replica and other types of clothing.  The subject of any person=92s clothi=
ng, I
believe, is a very personal matter whether we are talking about individual=
s
from past times or those in the present.  Clothing is a representation of =
a
person=92s personal expression in a very direct way.  Therefore, I believe=
 a
certain amount of respect is warranted.

=09My approach to clothing design and crafting is based on enjoyment, expa=
nded
options, and freedom of choice.  There is no place in my work for setting
strict dress codes or establishing hard-and-fast rules. I frequently discu=
ss
different options concerning a particular garment as a means of making my =
own
personal choices and helping other people to make theirs.  My interest in
replica clothing does not mean that I am willing to have my clothing and
design choices judged.

=09If the above is offensive to anyone on the list then we may have reache=
d an
impasse because this is the way I work and live.  I will probably really c=
atch
it for this, but I think you deserve to know exactly where I am coming fro=
m.

Thank you,
Andrea Moore

------------------------------

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