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1999-12-07
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From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest)
To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr350-digest V1 #216
Reply-To: dr350-digest
Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr350-digest Wednesday, December 8 1999 Volume 01 : Number 216
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 21:32:40 EST
From: DBatDBA@aol.com
Subject: (dr350) Standing up and bars
In a message dated 12/7/99 6:51:14 PM, owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
writes: << ..anyone else feel hunched over standing up on the pegs on the
dirt-DR?? >>
Me too, but I'm only 5'7. All I did to fix my problem was to reposition the
stock bars as far forward as possible. Puts me in a much better riding
position for standing-up and still works great for sitting down.
Dave Bamberger/95DR350SE/99CBR600F4/84RZ350/Colorado Springs/
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Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 18:56:41 -0800
From: Springer <ratfab@home.com>
Subject: (dr350) Carb problem on 94 dr350
Hi all, I've been lurking on the list here for a couple of weeks.
there seems to be lots of great info and knowledge here. Thanks in
advance, maybe you can help me.
I bought a 94 dr350 electric start street model about a month ago. I
took it to the Death Valley area for 7 riding days last week. I have
always been a honda man and have some XRs, But my riding budy has a 90
Dr350 dirt model converted for street. Anyway I have ridden his from
time to time and I concluded that his DR does every thing better than my
hondas so now I have a DR.
The bike run great most of the time. About the 4th day of riding, I
was in Goler Wash and fell down trying to get up one of those rocky
rises in the west end of the wash. No damage to me or the bike (other
than a directional signal), but shortly afterwards the bike started to
stall if the RPM would get low and it would be hard to start. It would
only start very difficultly with full throttle. The Bike ran in verying
stages of bad for the whole 33 miles back to the eastern entrance to
that wash. The bike stalled completely a couple time where I couldn't
keep it running (unnerving), Finally getting it going and limping in at
about a top speed of 25 mph. The next day I took the carb apart to find
it clean with only a couple of grains of something in the float bowl.
The only thing that looked funny was the needle didn't look like it had
a very positive locating arrangement. Maybe the needle was bouncing
around and lodging itself cocked and allowing too much fuel. When I was
having trouble, I tried taping on the carb to reseat the needle.
Now get this, when I put the carb back on the bike it started and ran
perfectly even without choke and it would take gas without warming up.
So I thought this is fixed somehow, then in about 10 miles of perfect
running the bike died while runing 40 mph, no sputtering or missing,
just died. I tried to restart, nothing, so I tapped the carb in
desperation. It restarted and ran pretty well (not perfect), But in
another hour of slow and go rock hopping it was running perfectly and
ran another hour back to camp. That was the last I rode her before
leaving for home. Are there any suggestions as I am hesitant to ride
her further than I feel comfortable about walking?
BTW, I put an extra set of peg about 8 to 10 inches behind the stock
pegs. It makes standing up much easier, and sand riding is a breese
with the weight further back. Also when climbing hills you don't have
to hold any weight with your arms. The down side is learning to get to
the brake or gearshift. The alteration requires welding.
- --
Pete Springer PH 760 633 2249
Box 938 501 Union St.
Cardiff, Ca 92007 Encinitas, Ca 92024
84 V65 Sabre, Honda
86 VF700C Magna, Honda
86 XR600, Honda
85 XR350, Honda
89 TW200, Yam
The only thing worth dying for is living.
It's not smart people that live to be old, It's lucky people.
Sabre shock Altering is the answer to "The Meaning of Life"
(honda magna,honda sabre,V65,1100cc,vf750s,vf700s,vf700c,vf750c,honda
interceptor,vfr750f)
(honda
magnum,v45,750cc,vf750,vf700,vfr750,vfr800,vfr800f,vf1000,vf1000f)
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 21:05:18 -0700
From: Norman Kouba <njkouba@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 350 airbox modifications
- --------------99A86521D229143D1464B54B
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Andrew Spooner wrote:
> Can anybody advise me on how much difference their is between a new
> Vortex airbox versus a cut out standard Suzuki airbox with a k+n
> filter. The price between the two is somewhat different especially
> with the shipping costs to me in the u.k. I'd also appreciate some
> advice on the following, apart from being a pig to kick when cold (20
> mins sometime) my bike runs like a dream until I open the throttle
> fully. It then feels like the bike is being starved. I'm worried about
> changing the settings because other than this the bike runs great.
AJ:
I just installed a Vortex airbox on our 94 DR 435 that had a heavely
modified stock airbox on it, that I assumed was as good as it gets
untill Jesse told me to try his vortex air box. I installed his airbox
and did not change anything else, had to go up 3 main jet sizes, from a
147.5 to a 155 at 3000 ft, and it runs so much harder on top. You can
usually tell by the size of the main jet as to how much gain or loss one
gets from a product. If you have modified your stock air box, no matter
if you have a DR or DRS, you need to go up on the main jet. The pilot
needs to be a 37.5 and the main between a 132.5 and a 137.5 depending on
airbox mods and elevation. I do not have a comment on the KN filter,
except it's a real sweet heart to remove and replace. The pre 1994 DR
and DRs Model 350's are notorisly hard to start cold. (below 42
degrees) Thanks for the inquiry and your on a good list. Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
- --------------99A86521D229143D1464B54B
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p>Andrew Spooner wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Can
anybody advise me on how much difference their is between a new Vortex
airbox versus a cut out standard Suzuki airbox with a k+n filter.</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>The
price between the two is somewhat different especially with the shipping
costs to me in the u.k.</font></font> <font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I'd
also appreciate some advice on the following, apart from being a pig to
kick when cold (20 mins sometime) my bike runs like a dream until I open
the throttle fully. It then feels like the bike is being starved. I'm worried
about changing the settings because other than this the bike runs great.</font></font> </blockquote>
AJ:
<p>I just installed a Vortex airbox on our 94 DR 435 that had a heavely
modified stock airbox on it, that I assumed was as good as it gets
untill Jesse told me to try his vortex air box. I installed his airbox
and did not change anything else, had to go up 3 main jet sizes,
from a 147.5 to a 155 at 3000 ft, and it runs so much harder on top.
You can usually tell by the size of the main jet as to how much gain or
loss one gets from a product. If you have modified your stock air
box, no matter if you have a DR or DRS, you need to go up on the main jet.
The pilot needs to be a 37.5 and the main between a 132.5 and a 137.5 depending
on airbox mods and elevation. I do not have a comment on the KN filter,
except it's a real sweet heart to remove and replace. The pre
1994 DR and DRs Model 350's are notorisly hard to start cold. (below
42 degrees) Thanks for the inquiry and your on a good list.
Norm
<p>Suzuki DR Suspensions
<br>DR. DR
<br><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299">http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299</A>
</body>
</html>
- --------------99A86521D229143D1464B54B--
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Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 22:01:27 -0800
From: jlilien@slip.net
Subject: (dr350) Thinking of buying a 94 DR350
I have had an XL600R for many years, wore it out, and sold it a few months
ago. Rather than fix it (it had over 40K miles) I though that I would try
to get a lighter dual sport bike, that was more dirt oriented that the XL.
I have found a 94 DR350 that seems to be in very good condition, less than
6K miles, but I have some questions and perhaps someone here can comment.
Is it possible to fit a kick starter to it and remove the electric starter.
It looks like that there is a rubber plug in the case were the kick start
would go. If I do that, how much weight will it save.
Can I run the bike without a battery.
The bike coughs a bit when I close the throttle from high revs, not a real
backfire, but a noticable hickup. It has an FMF exhaust on it. Is this a
problem, or that something DR350s do.
Anything specific I should look out for before I buy it.
If anyone in the San Francisco Bay area has a 93 Dr350 for sale, the one
without an electric start, but as I understand it, easier starting that the
90 through 92s, I would be interested in hearing about it.
Thanks alot,
Jeff
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:42:44 -0000
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gu=F0mundur_P=E9tursson_S=EDmst=F6=F0vardeild=2E__?= =?iso-8859-1?Q?Stj=F3rn_og_rekstrarmi=F0st=F6=F0=2E?= <GUDMUNDURP@simi.is>
Subject: RE: (dr350) DR 350 airbox modifications
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF4158.322C9BD8
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
=20
Hi
when you say modified stock airbox, what mods do you meen, cut the top =
off
or add 1 inc hole in the top.
what i am looking for is what jet do i need if i cut the top off.
Greetings from ICELAND
=20
Gu=F0m.P=E9tursson=20
Stj=F3rn og rekstrarmi=F0st=F6=F0 / Fars=EDmakerfi=20
S=EDmst=F6=F0vardeild=20
Landss=EDminn=20
S:5506328 GSM: 8926328 NMT:8526328=20
- -----Original Message-----
From: Norman Kouba [mailto:njkouba@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: 8. desember 1999 04:05
To: Andrew Spooner
Cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 350 airbox modifications
=20
Andrew Spooner wrote:=20
Can anybody advise me on how much difference their is between a new =
Vortex
airbox versus a cut out standard Suzuki airbox with a k+n filter. The =
price
between the two is somewhat different especially with the shipping =
costs to
me in the u.k. I'd also appreciate some advice on the following, apart =
from
being a pig to kick when cold (20 mins sometime) my bike runs like a =
dream
until I open the throttle fully. It then feels like the bike is being
starved. I'm worried about changing the settings because other than =
this the
bike runs great.=20
AJ:=20
I just installed a Vortex airbox on our 94 DR 435 that had a heavely
modified stock airbox on it, that I assumed was as good as it gets =
untill
Jesse told me to try his vortex air box. I installed his airbox and =
did not
change anything else, had to go up 3 main jet sizes, from a 147.5 to a =
155
at 3000 ft, and it runs so much harder on top. You can usually tell by =
the
size of the main jet as to how much gain or loss one gets from a =
product.
If you have modified your stock air box, no matter if you have a DR or =
DRS,
you need to go up on the main jet. The pilot needs to be a 37.5 and =
the
main between a 132.5 and a 137.5 depending on airbox mods and =
elevation. I
do not have a comment on the KN filter, except it's a real sweet heart =
to
remove and replace. The pre 1994 DR and DRs Model 350's are notorisly =
hard
to start cold. (below 42 degrees) Thanks for the inquiry and your on =
a
good list. Norm=20
Suzuki DR Suspensions=20
DR. DR=20
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
<http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299> =20
- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF4158.322C9BD8
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