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dr350-digest       Thursday, September 23 1999       Volume 01 : Number 169




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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:32:09 -0700
From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) New DR400

Here are the MSRP:

Dual-Sport DR-Z400SY $5349
DR-Z400Y $5249
Electric Start DR-Z400EY $5349 (for the lazy fokes like me with my TT-R250)
DR650SET $5399

I must have got my 99' DR350 for a bargan at $3800

Jeff Corsaro



- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Vineski <[e-mail]>
Cc: <>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 5:25 PM
Subject: (dr350) New DR400


> Just ran across another web page with photo and specs.  Check out:
>  http://206.83.176.17/~sucycles/sr-20/dualsport/fs_dr400s.htm
>
> Jim
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:05:44 -0600
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: (klr650) New bikes..help? NKLR

Hey Morgan,

Try this...
http://206.83.176.17/~sucycles/sr-20/dualsport/fs_dr400s.htm

Fred


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Morgan <[e-mail]>
To: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>; KLR List <[e-mail]>;
dr350 <[e-mail]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: (klr650) New bikes..help? NKLR


> Hi Kurt, I was looking for your name to click on to ask this very
question.
> I just now got off the phone with Elden, who has been smitten with the
> internet.  He wanted to know if I had seen anything on what he called a
"DX"
> 400.  I printed all the writeups off the net on the new Honda 650 (which
he
> was real excited about....esp. the front end geometry..he said they
finally
> got it right) so he was hopeful the Suzuki stuff was out.  I have not seen
> anything.  He said the new 400 would come in 3 versions..MX, enduro with
> electric start, and street legal with electric start.  Double overhead
cam,
> water cooled.....but that was all he knew.  Got any info???
> Morgan
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 21:43:28 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need Tire and Chain advice

Hi   Heston you are correct the X ring chain is excellent. I just installed one on a DR for one
of my customers its more costly than the o'ring but I find you get what you pay for.
Jesse

Heston LaMar wrote:

> > I run the Regina o-ring as well, but I have heard opinion that x-ring chains are the best.
> > The idea is that between each link is an "x" vs. an "o" and that the "x" shape will hold
> > more
> > lube than the "o" shape will.  Don't know if this is true or false but worth checking out.
> >
> > Heston
> > 94 350SE
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 05:12:29 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat info

Somebody makes a removeable "air seat" strap on dilly...looks good, but way
overpriced.  I've also seen gel pads made to slip over bicycle seats that
might work.  I have previously taken a "gardener's knee pad" from Wal-Mart
for $3 & cut it to fit the sweet spot on my seat and secured it w/ velcro.
Its made of 1" thick closed cell foam that is soft yet firm.  Helped me
alot.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>From: [e-mail]
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail], [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) Seat info
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:22:14 EDT
>
>I'm in the process of setting up my DR350SE for another lengthy trip (two
>600mi. days).  I am trying to figure out what to do about the seat as the
>last trip neccessitated leaving my butt in "Intensive Care" for 3 days.
>
>With the impending DR400 I am reluctant to use my current seat or invest
>too
>much in a new one lest I decide to trade or sell.  Does anyone have
>experience with temporary "Gel" or "Air" strap on type butt savers?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 05:18:00 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 130x90 Rear

It was Dave Millholland in the Dallas area that operated on his stock
exhaust at my suggestion....I'd done same thing to an XR650L w/ great
results.  If you just cut the end off of the can where the weld bead is, you
can then take the baffle out...and then spot weld the endpiece back on.
Dave can tell you the details....he said it was an improvement, and was
quieter than my FMFMegaMax w/ all disks in place...but he welded the
endpiece back on.  Ideally, I think it'd be best if you could somehow make
the endpiece removeable.

Thanks for tire info-

Bryan in Dallas
DR 350SE


>From: [e-mail]
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) 130x90 Rear
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:07:41 EDT
>
>Yes the bigger... biggest 130 18inch rear Mt-21 fits the DR
>
>Say everyone... a buddy went to the Suzuki unveiling of the new DR in Las
>Vegas this weekend... he said it is awesome... there will be three versions
>of the DR400... a street version, a race WR400like version that's lighter
>than the YZ400, and a woods DR...  that's what I heard... time will tell if
>it's true
>
>
>Also who was it that cut open a DR stock exhaust to remove the baffle??
>where exactly should it be cut and how??
>
>Guy
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
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>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 05:56:29 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) did my first valve adjustment

Yesterday I did my first valve adjustment on the DR.  It has 6225 miles on
it, and the original owner *said* he'd taken it in for the breakin adj @ 600
mi or whatever.  No other adjustments since then.  I checked the clearances
before I started and all valves were out of spec on the loose side, just
barely letting the large end range of feeler guages slide in/out without
drag.  After adjustment, I could tell NO difference in performance....but at
least I know everything is in spec now.  The whole job took me about an
hour, and I found that I didnt really need that cool little valve adjustment
knob that Thumper Racing sells...but it would've saved me 10 minutes or so I
guess.  I turned the adjusters w/ needle nose pliers.

So I guess it speaks well of these engines that they can go nearly 6000
miles of fairly aggressive riding w/o being too far out of spec.
I think the recommended adj interval is 3000 miles.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:19:21 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) did my first valve adjustment

Hy Bryan;

Doing a valve adjustment is probably the one most important periodic
adjustment to check/make on any 4-stroke machine. You're lucky the valves had
been on the loose side (which is the better way to err in making
adjustments); generally, the worst thing arising from loose valves is a
little bit more noise. Had one or more of the valves been less than spec
(tight valves) you would've been running the risk of burning a valve,
especially if the tight valve(s) was (were) an exhaust valve. The valves need
good contact with the valve seat to allow them to cool and this is
particularly important for the exhaust valves; the heat is transfered to the
engine block each time the valve is fully seated. Intake valves benefit from
the cool blast of the intake charge in addition to valve seat contact, but
the exhaust valves don't and must have good seat contact to cool them or they
will self destruct quite rapidly.

Mike
' 93 DR350

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 15:19:21 +0100
From: "Colin Parkes" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Air box (UK)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0110_01BF05D7.0315A180
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi,

got a '92 350SN (I think!!)
I read everywhere that you can get good gains with a cycle gear airbox.
The bike has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) tailpipe and a bigger =
main jet (I think).
Does anyone know if you can get this airbox (or equivalent) in the UK =
and also roughly what it might cost ?

Also, are there any good shops/mail order companies in the UK for DR350 =
parts ?

cheers,

Col.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0110_01BF05D7.0315A180
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>got a '92 350SN (I think!!)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I read everywhere that you can get good gains with a =
cycle=20
gear airbox.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The bike has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) =
tailpipe and=20
a bigger main jet (I think).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone know if you can get this airbox (or =
equivalent) in=20
the UK and also roughly what it might cost ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Also, are there any good shops/mail order companies =
in the UK=20
for DR350 parts ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>cheers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Col.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0110_01BF05D7.0315A180--


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:27:25 -0400
From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) Air box (UK)

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
Never heard of an "SN" model.  Maybe it is a Euro version??
Supertramp was a band, not an exhaust.  Supertrapp pipes tend to be
very loud unless taken down to 3 discs and packed w/ the special silencing
material from Supertrapp (does not reduce flow, just noise according to
Supertrapp).  If you don't have a larger main jet, then you are probably
running a little lean w/ the Supertrapp.  The airbox is a good idea
- -- check out  <a href="www.cyclegear.com">www.cyclegear.com</a> .
If you want to save some cash, just take the snorkle out of your stock
airbox, drill multiple ~ 1cm whole in the top of the stock airbox &
put in a better flowing K&N filter.  I think drilling holes gives
you just as much flow as hacking the whole top out of it and helps prevent
(although unlikely) foreign objects from entering the airbox.  Be
sure to remove your filter while drilling holes and to stop up the port
into the carb.  Then, vacuum out the airbox before reinstalling filter
& running the bike (you don't want plastic debris in your carb/engine!
<p>Heston
<p>Colin Parkes wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font size=-1>Hi,</font> <font size=-1>got
a '92 350SN (I think!!)</font><font size=-1>I read everywhere that you
can get good gains with a cycle gear airbox.</font><font size=-1>The bike
has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) tailpipe and a bigger main jet
(I think).</font><font size=-1>Does anyone know if you can get this airbox
(or equivalent) in the UK and also roughly what it might cost ?</font> <font size=-1>Also,
are there any good shops/mail order companies in the UK for DR350 parts
?</font> <font size=-1>cheers,</font> <font size=-1>Col.</font></blockquote>

</body>
</html>


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:54:16 -0500
From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) bike won't start

Thanks Mike
I cleaned the carb this time including all the jets.  The bike started
and ran 3 or 4 miles last night without problems.  I shut off the bike
and planned to go for a ride in the am.  This am it won't start again.  I
pulled out the spark plug again and this time there is NO spark.  I
rechecked the electrical connections, charged the battery and tried a
different spark plug.  Still NO spark.  I plan to get an ohmeter and
check the ignition coil and RUN switch.  Is this the correct first step?

thanks again
Chuck Vokac - Panama City Beach, FL - '92 DR350S

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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #169
***************************