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dr350-digest          Friday, August 20 1999          Volume 01 : Number 133




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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 13:04:08 -0500
From: "William Slade" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) ????

unsubscribe



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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 17:07:54 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) New Bars

Jeff;

IMHO, forget the "cheapies"; they are a waste of money and effort (as in the
effort expended to replace them frequently). If you do any off road riding
the low rent bars will twist themselves into a pretzle the first time you
plant it. The Pro Tapers are great bars, for a great price and then you have
to buy the adapter to mount them (some guys swear by these bars so you'll
probably get a bunch of pro Pro Taper responses). The Renthals are kind of a
happy medium; not too expensive and not too cheap. I bought a set for my dirt
only ' 93 DR350 and they have held up well, even after a few intimate
contacts with terra firma. Just my 2 cents worth...good luck.

Mike
' 93 DR350

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 17:14:35 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) About oils and more...

Kevin;

IMHO, buy the best stuff your wallet can afford. The oil in the air-cooled DR
is the single most important fluid (and the only fluid for dirt only types)
in the bike. It 's function is not just to lube the crank but also the clutch
and gearbox; it is also a critical component in providing engine cooling. I
use Castrol 5w40 full-synthetic motorcycle oil and the bike runs much better;
it revs quicker, shifts better and the clutch is like silk (and no, I don't
work for Castrol).

Mike
' 93 DR350

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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 15:15:44 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) List growth...

The DR list continues to grow well, we are now at 172 and growing each day.
Thanks for making this list such a good resource...

Kurt Simpson
Salt Lake City


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Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:10:35 -0700
From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Helmet cam video from Moab dualsport rally

The White Rim helmet cam video is ready (at last!!)  Cost will be $17.00.
 If anyone is interested in ordering the video, please send me an e-mail
for ordering details.

Also check my recently update web page at:
 http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969


Doug
'94 DR350SE


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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:30:12 -0400
From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: Front Suspension

Hi,

I was thinking about using Larry Roesler (Progressive Suspension
actually,
I think) progressive wound springs.  They have a rate of 20 - 30 lbs and
claim that the progressive winding of the spring gives a plush ride with
resistance to hard-bottoming.

Does anyone have experience with progressively wound fork springs?

Thanks...Mark
'98 DR350SE

jessekientz wrote:
>
> Hi Strick, In most of the cases I have found that the front springs are not
> stiff enough In my own experience I have tried progresseive suspension heaviest
> spring and they have worked better. I also have experimented with XR600 front
> springs. A starting point would be .41kg or23# Eibach spring not knowing your
> weight of course makes it difficult to suggest the proper spring . Norm Kouba
> is probably a better source than myself as he specializes in suspensions. Hope
> this helps.  Jesse
>
> Strick wrote:
>
> > Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
> > feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
> > my DR sooner than later.
> >
> > Please Respond if anyone has info.
> >
> > Strick

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Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 05:59:21 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning

Last night I got her running a little better by turning in the T-handle
quite a bit and running the exhaust full open.  I dont think I can live with
the noise, though.  As I went down my quiet little neighborhood street, the
car alarm on every other parked car I passed would go off!!

What effect/how important is the crankcase vent tube?  It goes from the
crankcase to the airfilter box (stock and the Vortex box).  What does this
do?  If its really only a vent, any problem with tossing the hose all
together and just clamping a little vilter on top of the tube where the hose
connects to the crankcase?

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
>Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:46:52 PDT
>
>Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The installation
>went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from the
>box to the carb, but not a big deal.
>
>Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.  I
>already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set
>the
>needle on the 4th clip down.
>
>When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I fiddled
>w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would
>idle.
>  I took off on a short test ride:
>
>1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
>Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
>powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good
>before).
>
>2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
>rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as smooth
>as it should be.
>
>3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.  Can
>run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.
>
>4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
>quiet core).
>
>
>How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my last
>trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
>screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
>Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust might
>help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
>could live with the noise though.
>
>Comments/help appreciated-
>
>Bryan in Dallas
>95 DR350SE
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
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_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 09:59:01 -0400
From: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning

Bryan,

Without a Dyno, jetting is largely an hit and miss operation, the best
way I have found to do this is to only adjust one thing at a time. It
takes alot of time, and patience, but in the long run, you will gain a
better understanding of what changes affect different parts of the
rpm range. Another thing that folks seem to ignore is that all of the
circuts in the carb overlap. For example while the fuel screw is
primarly used to adjust the idle circut, it also has signinficant impact
in the lower part of the mid-range as well. Sometimes raising the
needle one position can make a bike run too rich, in these instances,
it's probably better to crank out the fuel screw a couple of turns.

The 4k rougness sounds like its leaning out. Put the plates back in the
exhaust and either try messing with the fuel screw, or raising the needle.

The crank vent is an emissions reduction device. Instead of venting the
gasses generated it the cases to atmosphere, it sends them into the
airbox where they can be ingested by the engine and burnt. You can
plug the hole on the airbox, but don't clamp the case vent, go to the
auto parts store and grab yourself a little breather filter. Not venting
the case can lead to excessive oil consumption by increasing blow-by.

Hope this helps,

- - Jeff
98 DRse
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning


> Last night I got her running a little better by turning in the T-handle
> quite a bit and running the exhaust full open.  I dont think I can live
with
> the noise, though.  As I went down my quiet little neighborhood street,
the
> car alarm on every other parked car I passed would go off!!
>
> What effect/how important is the crankcase vent tube?  It goes from the
> crankcase to the airfilter box (stock and the Vortex box).  What does this
> do?  If its really only a vent, any problem with tossing the hose all
> together and just clamping a little vilter on top of the tube where the
hose
> connects to the crankcase?
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>
>
> >From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
> >Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
> >To: [e-mail]
> >Subject: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
> >Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:46:52 PDT
> >
> >Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The
installation
> >went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from
the
> >box to the carb, but not a big deal.
> >
> >Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.
I
> >already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set
> >the
> >needle on the 4th clip down.
> >
> >When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I
fiddled
> >w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would
> >idle.
> >  I took off on a short test ride:
> >
> >1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
> >Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
> >powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good
> >before).
> >
> >2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
> >rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as
smooth
> >as it should be.
> >
> >3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.
Can
> >run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.
> >
> >4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
> >quiet core).
> >
> >
> >How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my
last
> >trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
> >screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
> >Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust
might
> >help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
> >could live with the noise though.
> >
> >Comments/help appreciated-
> >
> >Bryan in Dallas
> >95 DR350SE
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________________________
> >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
> >subject blank
> >body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
> #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
subject blank
> body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 11:20:56 -0400
From: "Keith Browning" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Couple of Questions

    First, I need to replace my front brake pads - should I stick with the
stock pads or go to aftermarket pads?  I ride mostly on the street with a
little off-roading mixed in.  When I do ride off-road, I try to stay away
form the mud; I won't ride it it's really muddy.
    Second, my clutch is doing weird things.  When I get on the gas hard, if I
lay my fingers across the clutch lever I can feel it being pulled out (away
from the bars).  When I let off the gas, it moves back towards the bars.  I
have tried adjusting the clutch at the perch, both ways, and it doesn't
seem to make a difference.  Is this something I should worry about?  Should
I adjust the clutch at other end (next to the engine)?

Thanks,
Keith Browning
Pittsburgh, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 07:17:12 -0700
From: "Jack Alexander" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 90 DRS for Sale

I have 2 DRs and want to sell my 90 DR350S.  Clarke Tank, Supertrapp EAR
(and regular SuperTrapp).  Less than 6K miles.  It's in good shape, it runs
good, and all that sales talk.  It is located near Reno Nevada.  $1750.

Jack Alexander
[e-mail]



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End of dr350-digest V1 #133
***************************