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dr350-digest        Wednesday, August 18 1999        Volume 01 : Number 132




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 21:58:53 -0700
From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Front Suspension

Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
my DR sooner than later.

Please Respond if anyone has info.

Strick
- -----Original Message-----
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
Date: Monday, August 16, 1999 10:41 PM
Subject: (dr350) website taking place


> Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
>town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
>http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
>
>
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>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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subject blank
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>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:14:13 +0200
From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) About oils and more...

(Sorry for the mistakes... I=B4m using a translator program)

What oil is it better for a single cylinder motorcycle (DR350SE)? Synthet=
ic
or
mineral?. I have heard several comments on the synthetic oils and the sin=
gle
cylinders:
- - The motorcycles with tendency to spend oil (single  cylinder, and all
bigger cylinder capacity, worse), they spend much more the synthetic oil
that the mineral. This is due to the own structure of the single cylinder=
s
motors, because they have some much bigger tolerances , and the synthetic
oil is more flowing than the mineral
- - The synthetic oil is much more expensive, and its main advantage reside=
s
in that can last 15000 km or much more... but if the changes of oil are m=
ade
each 5000 or 6000 km, it doesn't have a lot of interest

I use mineral oil Motul2000 (Api SH, is a car oil). I have also heard tha=
t
the oils with API SH should not be used in motorcycles ... is this true?
Is there some problem to use a good oil car mineral in motorbikes?

Does It really has advantages the synthetic oil when the motorcycle is us=
ed
a lot of time (high temperatures) does it has better yield or is it as a
mineral, alone oil that has bigger duration?

Is it normal that my DR warms very much? Why when the DR is very hot, doe=
s
the clutch lose " tact "? Does it affect the used oil?

Our DR=B4s doesn't have indicator of temperature (they don't have liquid
cooled)... How do we know when we are circulating with the motorcycle in
HIGH TEMP?
The other day, I used the DR during some 5-6 followed hours... and I didn=
't
know if it was circulating with the too hot engine or not... can you
circulate 5-6-7 and more hours (if we tolerate) with the DR without probl=
ems
of temperature?

Is it normal, when the DR is very hot that in the engine noises are heard=
?

Another question... I use the mineral... but if wants to change to synthe=
tic
oil that would have to make so that was a sure change? is it enough with =
to
empty the mineral oil and to change the oil filter , and later to add the
synthetic oil?


 Thank you and bye.

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:22:18 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Suspension

Bob Bell @ Precision Concepts, El Cajon, CA. did my forks & shock.  I
couldn't be happier with them.  Dont have any contact info with me, but if
you search the archives you'll find his ph#.  The cost was a little less
than $500 for stiffer springs all around, RaceTech cartridge emulators in
front, custom reworked valve in rear, new seals & fluids.  I told him my
weight & how I ride, & he set everything up perfectly for me.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
>To: "jessekientz" <[e-mail]>,"'DR350 list'" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Front Suspension
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 21:58:53 -0700
>
>Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
>feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
>my DR sooner than later.
>
>Please Respond if anyone has info.
>
>Strick
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, August 16, 1999 10:41 PM
>Subject: (dr350) website taking place
>
>
> > Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
> >town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
> >http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
> >
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
> >body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
> >
>
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
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_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:46:52 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning

Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The installation
went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from the
box to the carb, but not a big deal.

Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.  I
already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set the
needle on the 4th clip down.

When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I fiddled
w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would idle.
  I took off on a short test ride:

1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good before).

2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as smooth
as it should be.

3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.  Can
run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.

4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
quiet core).


How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my last
trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust might
help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
could live with the noise though.

Comments/help appreciated-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:07:28 -0600
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 7:46 AM
Subject: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning


> Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The installation
> went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from the
> box to the carb, but not a big deal.
>
> Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.
I
> already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set
the
> needle on the 4th clip down.
>
> When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I
fiddled
> w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would
idle.
>   I took off on a short test ride:
>
> 1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
> Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
> powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good
before).
>
> 2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
> rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as
smooth
> as it should be.
>
> 3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.
Can
> run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.
>
> 4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
> quiet core).
>
>
> How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my
last
> trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
> screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
> Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust
might
> help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
> could live with the noise though.
>
> Comments/help appreciated-
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE


The pilot screw adjust fuel mixture at idle.  For midrange adjustment you
will need to adjust your needle posititon.  Sounds like you may be lean, so
you need to raise your needle(drop the clip) a notch or two.  Opening up the
exhaust will make your engine run even more lean.

Good luck!

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 07:48:49 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: Front Suspension

Hi Strick, In most of the cases I have found that the front springs are not
stiff enough In my own experience I have tried progresseive suspension heaviest
spring and they have worked better. I also have experimented with XR600 front
springs. A starting point would be .41kg or23# Eibach spring not knowing your
weight of course makes it difficult to suggest the proper spring . Norm Kouba
is probably a better source than myself as he specializes in suspensions. Hope
this helps.  Jesse

Strick wrote:

> Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
> feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
> my DR sooner than later.
>
> Please Respond if anyone has info.
>
> Strick
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
> To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
> Date: Monday, August 16, 1999 10:41 PM
> Subject: (dr350) website taking place
>
> > Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
> >town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
> >http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
> >
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
> subject blank
> >body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
> >


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:06:46 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: airbox hose problems

Hi Bryan, I find that connecting the hose first solidly to the carb prior to
inserting the airbox especially the right side once it is secure you insert the
airbox from the left side into place holding the box to the rearof the bike then
insert the hose onto the airbox then slide it forward into place and fasten in
place with the fasteners then clamp the rear section of the hose manifold to the
airbox . Fred is correct sounds like the needle needs adjusting I normally
suggest the 4th groove down. hope this helps. I must say I do not recommend
looping almost is ok but looping messes up the paint on your helmet and possibly
other things.  Hope this helps feel free to contact me any time.  Jesse

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> Hi Jesse-
>
> I put the airbox in last night.  I'm having a problem w/ the connecting hose
> from carb-to-box.  The duct stuff seems so rigid as to not be able to do the
> slight offset bend it needs to do between box & carb.  This has 2 bad
> results:
>
> 1) its forcing my carb in an unnatural position so that the top of my cables
> are now pressed hard against my tank (I have a Clarke tank), resulting in an
> ever-so-slight bind on the cables
>
> 2) I *think* I have a good seal at the carb and box, but it looks
> questionable: when looking at carb from the curb side of bike, the hose isnt
> seated as far toward the carb body as it is on the street side of the carb,
> where it is nearly flush.  I also have a noticable gap on the box
> connection, but due to the longer length of the shoulder coming of the box
> that the clamp has to grab onto, I'm pretty sure this is a firm seal.  I'm
> worried about the carb seal though.  I undid, twisted, torqued, & tried
> several times to get a better alignment/position of the hose between the box
> and carb....the best I can get doesnt look good enough.
>
> The hose clamp seems to be wider than the area of of the carb that the hose
> slips onto, resulting in a "squish effect" when you tighten the hose
> clamp....forcing it off the carb.  I tried using the narrower clamp off the
> stock airboot, but it was too small.
>
> If you should ever "re-think" your choice of connection hose, please let me
> know.
>
> I also have some questions about tuning which I will post to the DR list.
>
> Thanks-
>
> Bryan Landers
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 13:59:58 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Suspension

Strick,

I have a '93DR350S and had the front forks Race Tech'd and new springs after
1 off road ride. That was 2 or 3 years ago and they work great on the trails.
Only recently as my skill level has increased a little and I am going on some
motocross tracks do I have any complaints with bottoming.  I know that no
matter what you do to the forks they will not be moto ready so I really
cannot complain.

John

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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #132
***************************