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1999-07-12
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From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest)
To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr350-digest V1 #102
Reply-To: dr350-digest
Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr350-digest Tuesday, July 13 1999 Volume 01 : Number 102
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:48:47 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) rear spring
John wrote:
>
> I need some info on ordering rear springs for myself and two friends.We
> all got the links and want to take the bikes apart one time only.So with
> that we are all going to replace our springs as well.We all have se
> models and ride them hard.Can somone give me some names numbers and web
> address for some good aftermarket springs?
http://www.race-tech.com carries Eibach plus their own springs.
> I know a stock spring is abou
> 5.0kg.I am 170 my friend is 160 and the other is 210 any tested
> suggestions?Thaks guys
Datum: I'm 210 and ride on a set of Kouba links and a 7.6kg/mm Eibach
spring. The preload ends up right about in the middle of the shock
threads.
Norm can probably provide suggestions for the 160-170 pounders.
Bryan
'96 DR441
(The above setup also worked well on my '97 SE...)
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 20:57:29 -0500
From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net>
Subject: (dr350) unsubscribe
unsubscribe
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:05:34 -0500
From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net>
Subject: (dr350) good bye
Hi all,
This weekend i sold my 99 350SE,
and just want it to say that it was fun to be a member of this list, and
got some good info for tweeking the DR.
as fro what the future holds for me , i'll spend my free time on the
water.
the bad news is, that a few blocks away from my house , a guy is selling
his 96 CR500
it seems like a mighty fine machine, and it is calling my name every
time i drive by, some time i also hear something like " buy me" when i
pass by,
Well , so long friends
George
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 21:09:12 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) unsubscribe
approve 2347 unsubscribe d350 mtctech@acronet.net
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 00:16:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock springs
What is involved in changing the shock spring? Does the nitrogen have to
be released from the reservoir? I had my dealer put on the
Progressive ut wold like to avoid that this time. Any info would be
appreciated.
Jim A.
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 08:07:39 -0600
From: Michael Terrian <terrian@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock springs
James:
I posted the same question once on rmd and was told that if you release =
pressure on the spring, on the lower end of the shock body is a =
snap-ring type retainer that can be easily removed allowing the spring =
to come right off.=20
Mike T
'96 DR350SE
- ----------
From: James Adler[SMTP:jadler@webtv.net]
Reply To: James Adler
Sent: Monday, July 12, 1999 10:16 PM
To: dr350@lists.xmission.com
Subject: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock springs
What is involved in changing the shock spring? Does the nitrogen have to
be released from the reservoir? I had my dealer put on the
Progressive ut wold like to avoid that this time. Any info would be
appreciated.
Jim A.
Visit dr350 archives at =
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=3Ddr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 08:38:05 -0700
From: <john.gill@conexant.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock springs
James,
No need to mess with the shock's contents.
A spring replacement is not that hard; did one for another owner in an hour,
including setting the sag.
(Help me out, Norm, Bryan & Jess, if I missed something.)
Place bike on stand so rear wheel is off floor.
Remove link nuts & bolts, then links.
Disconnect reservoir and upper shock nuts & bolts.
Block up rear wheel.
Disconnect lower shock nut & bolt.
Fish shock through bottom.
Place shock eyelet in vise
Break spring locknut "ring" loose from one abutting spring; spin away from
spring.
Spin spring by hand, working second ring out, away from spring.
When spring is loose, disassemble spring retaining halves on other end.
Slide old spring off, new one on.
Reassemble working backwards in steps 10-1 above, but before you do, preload the
spring as indicated by Norm (if using his fine links), and tighten locknut with
punch as tight as you dare.
John
jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) on 07/12/99 09:16:49 PM
>What is involved in changing the shock spring? Does the nitrogen have to
be released from the reservoir? I had my dealer put on the
Progressive ut wold like to avoid that this time. Any info would be
appreciated.
Jim A.
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 10:04:22 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock springs
john.gill@conexant.com wrote:
>
> Place bike on stand so rear wheel is off floor.
> Remove link nuts & bolts, then links.
> Disconnect reservoir and upper shock nuts & bolts.
> Block up rear wheel.
> Disconnect lower shock nut & bolt.
> Fish shock through bottom.
> Place shock eyelet in vise
> Break spring locknut "ring" loose from one abutting spring; spin away from
> spring.
> Spin spring by hand, working second ring out, away from spring.
> When spring is loose, disassemble spring retaining halves on other end.
> Slide old spring off, new one on.
>
> Reassemble working backwards in steps 10-1 above, but before you do, preload the
> spring as indicated by Norm (if using his fine links), and tighten locknut with
> punch as tight as you dare.
I agree with everything above, however I seem to recall the need to remove
the airbox. Probably not necessary, but doing so provides a lot more
working room, plus an opportunity to clean out the gunk which inevitably
tends to form at the bottom.
BTW, I occasionally get requests for a write-up I did a while back on shock
maintenance. I thought I'd re-post to the list for anyone who's interested.
Bryan
- ---------------------------
Replacing Shock Oil
I'd highly recommend the $60-70 for a factory manual. You'll need the
torque settings at a minimum, plus it has some nice diagrams showing how the
rear linkage goes back together. (The only bummer is that it doesn't cover
getting into either the forks or the shock.)
Other things to have on hand:
- - 1 qt of 10W shock oil
- - A pan to catch the overflowing oil (which will happen)
- - Some clean, lint-free rags
- - Compressed air and brake/contact cleaner to remove every last spec of dust
- - Seal grease (I just used regular grease)
- - A vise, preferably with aluminum jaw faces. Several catalogs carry nice
magnetized extruded aluminum and rubber jaw faces. One source is:
Woodworker's Supply
1-800-645-9292
4" p/n 864-339
5" p/n 864-346
6" p/n 864-353
$6.95 a pair for any length (match to the width of your vise).
- - A small screwdriver with the end rounded over and smoothed (for digging
out the retainer clips)
- - A soft mallet (for tapping the cap back in w/o dinging the shaft)
Cleanliness: Apparently even the smallest bit of dust or dirt will mess up
the operation of the shims. Race Tech's videos _repeatedly_ harp on the
need to have everything absolutely spotlessly clean. 'Nuff said.
Getting the shock out isn't a big deal. You just need to disassemble the
rear half of your bike :) From memory, it's something like....
1) Remove the side panels, seat, and rear wheel
2) Unbolt the shock reservoir mount from the frame and reservoir
3) Remove the boot between the carb and the airbox
4) Remove the airbox
5) Remove the bolt at the joint between the links and the swingarm
6) Use a strap around the fender to hold the swingarm up, out of the way.
7) Unbolt the shock bolts top and bottom. Take care to note where all the
pieces of the linkage go. It might be a while before you're reassembling
the linkage.
8) Work the shock out.
> I'm
> gonna put on a heavier spring and Kouba links as per Norm, but I forgot to
> ask him about changing the fluid while I have it out. I assume this would
> be a smart thing to do while I have it off. What weight of fluid is called
> for? are there likely deteriorated seals?
A good start would be to check out MX Tuner's article on shock work:
http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/mar99/db101/db101shock.html
I would think that for your '95, the seals are still okay, but you do need
to take care to not damage them during removal and installation. A tip for
slipping the seal assembly back on is to cut a 2" triangle from the bottom
corner of a sandwich baggie, the really thin kind. Slip this "condom" over
the shaft, and then slip the seal assy on over the baggie -- keeps the sharp
edge of the stepped shoulder from hurting anything.
Whether you choose to disconnect the reservoir from the shock body or not
for cleaning is up to you. If so, use a knife to score small alignment
marks at the two banjo joints so you can bolt the hose back up in the same
configuration.
The valve for the bladder is located on the back of the reservoir, beneath a
metal shield. You can pry that shield out easily with a screwdriver and
chuck it -- I don't know what value that adds, except for perhaps keeping
people from fiddling with the valve.
Getting the shock filled with only fluid and _no_ air during reassembly is
the tricky part. Beyond that, it's pretty straightforward.
After everything is absolutely perfectly clean, you need to get a bit
creative in arranging both the reservoir and shock body vertically in your
vise -- use aluminum faced jaws or a couple pieces of wood to avoid marring
the aluminum bodies, plus an extra piece of wood that makes up the
difference in diameter between the shock and the reservoir. You also need
to sort of twist the hose a bit to get both parts vertical. It will make
sense once you do it.
Fill the reservoir about half way with clean oil, and put the
reservoir/bladder assembly together as shown in 'Tuner's article. The rest
of the shock reassembly is pretty-much identical to the Showa shock shown
there.
When bleeding the shock, the idea is to push the piston into the oil
_quickly_, to get the air through the shim stack, but then pull it back up
_slowly_, so as not to induce cavitation. (This is why the shock will be
pressurized with nitrogen -- to minimize cavitation.)
My dealer filled the bladder with nitrogen for no charge; I would think that
they would do it for $5 max in any case. (Also, Racetech recommends 200 psi
if you install a Gold Valve; pressure for a stock piston is 142 psi for my
'96)
BTW, I just finished installing a Gold Valve in my shock, so if you have any
more questions about the details of shock maintenance, please feel free to
ask. (I'm no expert, but at least it's fresh in my mind...)
From what I understand, net.wisdom suggests that suspension fluid should be
changed annually. And after seeing the disgusting liquid that I poured out
of my 3 year-old shock, I must agree.
Bryan
'96 DR441
Sacramento
916-785-7171
bryan_cowger@hp.com
(BTW, I rode on my new Gold Valve-equipped shock today for the first time.
It was:
- - PLUSH on everything
- - Softer on the little stuff
- - Stiffer on the jumps
In other words, it is definitely worth it! IMO...)
(I'm not a spokesman for Race-Tech -- just a happy customer, multiple
times...)
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 16:58:44 -0400
From: "Mark Sims" <msims@nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: (dr350) QwikSilver: junk or gold?
Hi all,
I've been browsing the DR350 archive and enjoying reading of
DR350 owner's questions/answers and experiences for about a week
now. You all seem like a great bunch of guys (and gals?) and I
feel I'm truly experiencing the power of the Internet. I figure
it's time to introduce myself.
I live in Atlanta and bought a new '98 DR350SE in April. I've
been riding it exclusively in the dirt, but would also like to
do some dualsport tours. If anyone in the Atlanta area would
like to hook up to ride let me know.
I've been having ALOT of fun with the bike, but I'm a bit
disappointed in the acceleration. Then I learned of the world
of aftermarket parts. I have a BIGGUN exhaust ordered and I'm
hooking up with Jesse to get the magic airbox.
I also got an Edelbrock QwikSilver carb. I put the carb on Sunday
and I was pretty shocked at the way the bike would almost die when
I opened the throttle from closed while coasting in 1st gear. I
was hoping that I just needed to play with the tuning - but when I
called Edelbrock they said that is to be expected and that all carbs
(other than pump) do that. Well my stock CV carb did not!
So I'd like to know, has anyone else experienced the QwikSilver?
Does the stock carb with the JX needle and spring do that?
Edelbrock is adamant that there is not a problem with their
carbs. The thought of that carb (at $300+) ending up on a
shelf is nauseating for me!
Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
Regards...Mark
P.S. A couple of mods that do work for me:
1. I changed the front sprocket from a 15 to a 14 tooth. What
a difference that made! The bike is much more energetic and
the top end I lost seems negligible to me (since I ride in
the dirt).
2. I removed the strap from the seat. Your butt will thank you.
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 15:53:36 -0700
From: <john.gill@conexant.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) QwikSilver: junk or gold?
Mark,
Consensis is the pumper is better, but now that you have it call Rob Barnum @
760-247-6285 (SoCal). He used to work for Edelbrock, is a DR enthusiast himself,
and can offer some assistance.
John
"Mark Sims" <msims@nortelnetworks.com> on 07/13/99 01:58:44 PM
Please respond to "Mark Sims" <msims@nortelnetworks.com>
To: dr350@lists.xmission.com
cc: (bcc: John D Gill/USA/Conexant)
Subject: (dr350) QwikSilver: junk or gold?
Hi all,
I've been browsing the DR350 archive and enjoying reading of
DR350 owner's questions/answers and experiences for about a week
now. You all seem like a great bunch of guys (and gals?) and I
feel I'm truly experiencing the power of the Internet. I figure
it's time to introduce myself.
I live in Atlanta and bought a new '98 DR350SE in April. I've
been riding it exclusively in the dirt, but would also like to
do some dualsport tours. If anyone in the Atlanta area would
like to hook up to ride let me know.
I've been having ALOT of fun with the bike, but I'm a bit
disappointed in the acceleration. Then I learned of the world
of aftermarket parts. I have a BIGGUN exhaust ordered and I'm
hooking up with Jesse to get the magic airbox.
I also got an Edelbrock QwikSilver carb. I put the carb on Sunday
and I was pretty shocked at the way the bike would almost die when
I opened the throttle from closed while coasting in 1st gear. I
was hoping that I just needed to play with the tuning - but when I
called Edelbrock they said that is to be expected and that all carbs
(other than pump) do that. Well my stock CV carb did not!
So I'd like to know, has anyone else experienced the QwikSilver?
Does the stock carb with the JX needle and spring do that?
Edelbrock is adamant that there is not a problem with their
carbs. The thought of that carb (at $300+) ending up on a
shelf is nauseating for me!
Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
Regards...Mark
P.S. A couple of mods that do work for me:
1. I changed the front sprocket from a 15 to a 14 tooth. What
a difference that made! The bike is much more energetic and
the top end I lost seems negligible to me (since I ride in
the dirt).
2. I removed the strap from the seat. Your butt will thank you.
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to Editor@dualsport.org for info.
------------------------------
End of dr350-digest V1 #102
***************************