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dr350-digest           Sunday, May 23 1999           Volume 01 : Number 055




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:41:39 -0700
From: Brian Bucknam <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: Tire sizes and brands??

George says:
>I am sick of the stock tire. Piece of junk.

Then George asks:
>...I saw an ad for Mx tire in the
>magazine, it grabed my attention (price) Cheng-Sing  front 21" $24 ,
>rear $30-43 , depending on wide. Is this any good ? Why so cheap? and
>The pattern does not look to bad either.

I don't know just why they are so cheap, but I have never tried Cheng-Shins
because of this vague idea that just maybe you do "get what you pay for"...
Try 'em out and let us all know if they suck!


>All these tires are listed as 3.00X 21 front . or 3.50 X18---5.30 X 18
>for rear  what is the correct size for front and rear in this mesureing
>system?

Front metric size: 90/90x21 == inch size ~3.25 x 21
Rear metric size: 110/90x18 == inch size ~4.25 x 18

...by my calculations, anyway.  Since you can run a 120/90 on the rear, you
can probably go as high as 4.50 x 18.

I can't promise anything, though.  I've only used the metric-sized ones.
Safer to go with 4.25.

I can personally recommend the Pirelli MT-21's.  Of course, they cost about
twice as much as the Cheng-Shins.


Good luck with the jetting -- sounds like you're getting close!

Brian
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 99 9:31:18 PDT
From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: Gearing for a DRS

> George ( & others),
> If you really want to have fun with your new found throttle response ( &
> still have streetabiity) on your SE model go to the original DRS gearing
> of 14 front & 43 rear.  IMHO this is great compromise gearing, I don't
> know why Suzuki made it higher.

  The stock gearing on my '98 DRSE was 15/41.  Too low for me.  It
couldn't pull redline in sixth.  I've gone to 14/41, but I think I'm
going to go 14/45 (if I can find a rear sprocket).  At 14/41 the top
end speed is still far more than I ever want to go.

- --
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 13:10:44 EDT
From: "Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) master link and more!

Hello all
I've been reading the list since the begining, but didn't post much cuz I
don't have My license yet.

anyway I've been collecting stuff for road side repairs. tire levers,co2
,patches. I'm going to install a master link into the original chain, no big
deal. Now come the questions

1.how do I open the master link on the trail?
2.Can u keep using the same link over and over? on, off, on, off?

(here are some more questions)
3.On a '93 dr350s when valve clearances get off go they get bigger or
smaller?

'bryant in brooklyn ny


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 13:16:18 EDT
From: "Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) non dr"how2carry your tools"

how do you guys like to carry your tools?
I'm thinking a "dual sport fender bag" by moose and a tool roll that way I
can have my spare tube and other things in the same bag, off my body.

How do you people do it?
bryant


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 11:05:09 -0700
From: "dan kouba" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) non dr"how2carry your tools"

My brother and father carry their tools on a CR500.  What?  Yep, their brother-in-law/family friend is constantly told how much power his CR500 has and that it has ample manly oomph to carry extra weight, such as tools and gas.  So, my Dad on his already-heavy DR435 and my brother on his KX500 get to ride toolfree because their buddy's ego is too big to realize that he's carrying about 14 pounds of extra gas and 10 pounds of tools.


- ---




On Sat, 22 May 1999 13:16:18   Bryant Wang wrote:
>how do you guys like to carry your tools?
>I'm thinking a "dual sport fender bag" by moose and a tool roll that way I
>can have my spare tube and other things in the same bag, off my body.
>
>How do you people do it?
>bryant
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 16:33:58 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) master link and more!

Bryant;

Unless the previous owner put one in, the chain does not have a master link.
The o-ring chain shouldn't give you any problems on the trail or the street
(if you've got a dual purpose bike like it seems you do). There's a specific
way to remove the chain should you ever have to, but my '93 DR350 has the
original factory chain and sprockets and there's still a lot of life left in
them.

As far as valve clearances go it's hard to say; in the end what does it
matter how they get out of adjustment? The most important thing is to keep
them in adjustment 'cause that's what'll kill a 4-stroke engine if they're
neglected; the valve clearances shrink too much, the valve does not come into
complete contact with the seat and as such does not cool sufficiently with
the result being burned valves. Could be the valves stretch as they wear
(making the clearances shrink) or it could be that the valve seat gets
pounded (which would also make the clearances shrink) Not knowing the exact
thermal characteristics of the engine as it gets hot; I would venture to
guess that the valve clearances actually increase slightly as the engine
warms due to expansion of the aluminum cylinder and head.

Mike
'93DR350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 16:38:58 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) non dr"how2carry your tools"

Hey Bryant;

I use a fanny pack made by Moose. Since my DR is off road only, I'm a little
leary about attatching stuff that can fall off or be ripped off by a
trailside branch. The fanny pack allows me to carry some basic tools, a spare
plug and whatever else. I really don't notice it at all once I hit the
trails....

Mike
'93DR350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 13:57:41 -0700
From: dave bloom <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Front Tires, suspension, and carbs

I love my '91 DR 350s but note three problems.  Note I am not all that
familiar with bikes and am trying to learn as quick as possible.

1) My front tire does not track well.  Most of my spills are due to
going around a dirt corner and the tire coming loose unexpectedly.  I
suspect front tire or suspension.
- - What tires have you all found work well for the front?  I have a
knobby for the back.
- - My front suspension is set for "5" which I think is quite soft.  Could
this be the problem? Why?

2) Speaking of suspension, what is that gizmo that seems to feed air
into the shock for?  I took it to the filling station and pumped it up
to the max the station had and it made no difference at all.  The reason
for my trying this was that I took my 120 lb son on the back and smelled
burned rubber.  I couldn't find the problem until I noticed the knobs on
the side of the back tire were smoking. With him on it the back end went
low enough to start rubbing on the muffler (a Supertrapp).  I had to
laugh a little.  We now use our 250 NX Honda for dual riding.  Not
nearly as much fun.  How can I beef up the back?  The bike is pretty
high for me now.  I am 5'10" and 170 lbs.

3) My bike takes 2-15 pumps to start when cold.  I have tried everything
including taking it to the shop and they tried every jet they could
think of with limited success.  I have also tried every combination of
choke, throttle, and compression release with every number of prekicks
from 0 to 20.  What a pain.  It starts right away when hot but leave it
20-30 minutes and forget it.  20-30 kicks might start it.  The bike was
modified when I bought it and has a Mukisi (Makuso?) anyway some kind of
carb on it that sounds like that.  Could that be the problem?  What kind
of non-standard carbs are in use out there?  Are these kind of starting
problems typical in this bike or typical with one that has been modified
such as mine?  I kinda hate to pay good money to go back to stock.
Help.

Dave Bloom
Los Gatos, Ca
DRS350    NX250

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 20:12:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: [none]

Scott,
One reason I mentioned the 14/43 gearing is the 43 hould be more readily
available as it was stock for a few years.
Bryant,
If you are a cheapskate like me go to WalMart and pick out a camera bag
for about $10 and put a plastic or metal base in it, bolt it on the
fender. It needs a sturdy base or it will be gone in one ride.
                     Jim A.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 23:25:35 -0500
From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) master link and more!

Hi,

As far as the chain goes. The factory bike has a one piece NO masterlink chain,
if it has been changed , it most likely has a masterlink , which can be opened
up with a screwdriver and put back just as easy. It is like a "C" clip. one
note:   it must be instaled in the correct way.

On the valve issue.
The valve clearance decreases(gets smaller) as the engine warms up. and so as
when it wears out over the years. Do to cam to rocker arm contact , as the cam
rolls under the rocker arm , it slowly acts as a griding whell over the years.
And as the cam lobe or the rocker arm wears, that where the clearence comes in.
Valve and seat does not wear nearly as fast as cam& rocker. Unless the valve
actuly burns out.

This experience is based on 12 years of valve adjustment on cars with same cam &
valve configuration. (Japanise cars)

George

Bryant Wang wrote:

> Hello all
> I've been reading the list since the begining, but didn't post much cuz I
> don't have My license yet.
>
> anyway I've been collecting stuff for road side repairs. tire levers,co2
> ,patches. I'm going to install a master link into the original chain, no big
> deal. Now come the questions
>
> 1.how do I open the master link on the trail?
> 2.Can u keep using the same link over and over? on, off, on, off?
>
> (here are some more questions)
> 3.On a '93 dr350s when valve clearances get off go they get bigger or
> smaller?
>
> 'bryant in brooklyn ny
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 23:33:45 -0500
From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Tires, suspension, and carbs

Hi ,

I knoby tire on the front should hold the beast.
As far as the valve on the (rear?) shock , is to fill it with nitrogen (
dealer should have it) and around 300Psi. ,  a gas station probably has
120Psi. of AIR. that is why it did make no diference.

George


dave bloom wrote:

> I love my '91 DR 350s but note three problems.  Note I am not all that
> familiar with bikes and am trying to learn as quick as possible.
>
> 1) My front tire does not track well.  Most of my spills are due to
> going around a dirt corner and the tire coming loose unexpectedly.  I
> suspect front tire or suspension.
> - What tires have you all found work well for the front?  I have a
> knobby for the back.
> - My front suspension is set for "5" which I think is quite soft.  Could
> this be the problem? Why?
>
> 2) Speaking of suspension, what is that gizmo that seems to feed air
> into the shock for?  I took it to the filling station and pumped it up
> to the max the station had and it made no difference at all.  The reason
> for my trying this was that I took my 120 lb son on the back and smelled
> burned rubber.  I couldn't find the problem until I noticed the knobs on
> the side of the back tire were smoking. With him on it the back end went
> low enough to start rubbing on the muffler (a Supertrapp).  I had to
> laugh a little.  We now use our 250 NX Honda for dual riding.  Not
> nearly as much fun.  How can I beef up the back?  The bike is pretty
> high for me now.  I am 5'10" and 170 lbs.
>
> 3) My bike takes 2-15 pumps to start when cold.  I have tried everything
> including taking it to the shop and they tried every jet they could
> think of with limited success.  I have also tried every combination of
> choke, throttle, and compression release with every number of prekicks
> from 0 to 20.  What a pain.  It starts right away when hot but leave it
> 20-30 minutes and forget it.  20-30 kicks might start it.  The bike was
> modified when I bought it and has a Mukisi (Makuso?) anyway some kind of
> carb on it that sounds like that.  Could that be the problem?  What kind
> of non-standard carbs are in use out there?  Are these kind of starting
> problems typical in this bike or typical with one that has been modified
> such as mine?  I kinda hate to pay good money to go back to stock.
> Help.
>
> Dave Bloom
> Los Gatos, Ca
> DRS350    NX250

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 00:00:04 -0500
From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) front exhaust pipe , what a joke.

Hi,

First i like to say that,  i have to give credit for the guy with the
Dremal- tool, who posted about  this earlier.
The front pipe is definetly some sort of  stainles steel , magnet will
not stick to it. and it is very hard material.
after removing the front exhaust pipe,(3 bolts), i found  the engine
side where Suzuki welded a flange to the pipe, those dick at the factory
nearly welded it shut.Well not exectly but there is a good 1/8" beed of
weld around.
It did take me abouth 15-20 min to grind the beed of weld off , with a
diegrinder and a carbide bit.
It must flow a lot better since it got noticably louder at the back of
the muffler (stock).

George.
PS: i will post the JX jetting tomorow, i have to get all mods. together
. Exuse my spelling ,but extremly tired for the day.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 01:07:48 EDT
From: "Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) thanx 4 valve info

>On the valve issue.
>The valve clearance decreases(gets smaller) as the engine warms up. and so
>as when it wears out over the years. Do to cam to rocker arm contact , as
>the cam
>rolls under the rocker arm , it slowly acts as a griding whell over the
>years.
>And as the cam lobe or the rocker arm wears, that where the clearence comes
>in. Valve and seat does not wear nearly as fast as cam& rocker. Unless the
>valve actuly burns out.
>This experience is based on 12 years of valve adjustment on cars with same
>cam &valve configuration. (Japanise cars)

Thanks George
this is what I found after doing the first valve adjustment on my newly
bought '93 drs. The valve clearances were way small. thanks for your input.

bryant


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 01:11:39 EDT
From: "Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) install master link or leave it endless?

Hey

my chain is stock,so it is endless do you think i should install a master
link? I'm not sure if I should anymore.

Bryant


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 01:18:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) chain

Bryant,
Don't worry about your chain until it is worn out. Then put on a new
o-ring chain with master link. You will need a chain breaker or a
portable grinder ( whiz-wheel ) to cut the worn out stocker off.
                          JA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 07:10:20 -0400
From: PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Ignition timing

Ok,
Ithink the previous owner of my bike messed with the timing,  how do I
go about setting it,  and what is the spec?
Thanks a lot
PJ

------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #55
**************************