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1999-05-14
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From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest)
To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr350-digest V1 #49
Reply-To: dr350-digest
Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr350-digest Saturday, May 15 1999 Volume 01 : Number 049
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 17:01:33 -0400
From: Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com>
Subject: (dr350) help
can any one tell me if thumper racing are on the web
stevie, scotland
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 17:06:46 -0700
From: <john.gill@conexant.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Problems DR350SE
- --0__=ftnKIYoVETyJmKhnsIk0h7O3LLSMxdmgNoBsrahvvc8bVxhFTPDzKfv1
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I'll let others post re: suspension, but will take the bigger bore and carb
question.
Let me first state that I have only ridden my own stock bore then shortly
thereafter as a 441.
The 385 appears to offer a significant boost, but any piston with added
compression will do just that, even with the stock or near-stock bore. See
http://www.off-road.com/~unthank/mods.html for a 385 vs. 441 write up.
The Cycle Gear 400 seems like a good kit, but takes as much trouble (new sleeve,
etc.) as the 441 & 435. they chose 400 because they felt that was about the most
they were comfortable with without destroying the engine, but then they go ahead
and offer a hotter cam, porting/flowing, & other hi-po mods., of which I did not
care for on mine.
Thumper's kit is a 435, and I have heard nothing but good reports.
I have a White Bros. 441; it is a near perfect boost for the desert - my
two-smoke buds say it roosts; I say it hooks up. Arguing aside, it is a bit of a
handful in tight mountain trails because of the immediate, off-idle & low RPM
boost, and generally more than enough for all but the most demanding thumper
pilot. You are welcome to throw a leg over mine if you're ever in SoCal.
I originally intended to do a 385 when a dealer offered me a real good price on
the 441 instead. Hey, you only go around once, so why not go big?
One last thing on engine work: do only as much work as your suspension can
handle; do not go all out on the engine and spend little on your suspension, or
go all out on the suspension and nothing to the engine. I did the former first
and things got odd with the handling until I went all out on the suspension. As
a general rule, spend an equal amount on both, and end up with a balanced,
matched system.
Carbs. Mine came with the 33mm Mikuni pumper. Most of the shops & individuals
who seem to know anything agree the pumper is best; the CV: worst; the
Quicksilver and FS Mikuni fall somewhere in between. A bigger diameter carb is
not required if you go big bore; it would give more top end but mine has plenty
of juice with the stock carb., and surprisingly a little less with a 36mm FS
Mikuni; the instant squirt of gas when the throttle is tweaked makes a
difference - velocities play into it but there's no sense going into that now.
If $ is a concern then get the JX needle + spring + larger main jet (if
required); this would be much cheaper than a new carb. If you are not satisfied,
then you can buy a new carb.
John
"Bret Gergely" <bgergely@ili.net> on 05/14/99 12:43:17 PM
Please respond to "Bret Gergely" <bgergely@ili.net>
To: dr350@lists.xmission.com
cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
Subject: (dr350) Problems DR350SE
I own a 95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the mailing
list it does not have cartridge forks. Does this mean that I can not buy Race
Tech fork and/or shock emulators? If I bought the emulators would my shocks be
equivelent to that of a off-road model? Could I install the emulators myself?
How bout the gold valve? What about new springs and fluid?
I was also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non vacuum type
carburetor? When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then let the bike sit it
starts to die out when I give it gas. Is this because it is a vacuum carb or is
it becuase the jetting is not right or is it becuase the idle is to high (which
I doubt)? Would it be worth it to me to buy a Dyno Jet kit and maybe a T handle
adjustment screw on this carb? Would it be possible to by a 36mm carb or maybe
larger or would I never be able to get it jetted correctly? Just some thoughts
twirling around my head.
My plan to make my DR better is to start with the simple stuff first and
work up to the major mods. I am still undecided on the big bore kit. Any other
thoughts would be appreciated?
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 23:13:15 EDT
From: JeepGeek2@aol.com
Subject: (dr350) sold my DR
how can i stop getting this mailing list?
i sold my DR and bought an ATV..
i m a trader to 2 wheels..
JeepGEEK
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 21:46:23 -0700
From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust
Bryan, did not know yours was an s model , my factory shop manual has two carbs
listed under the 94 DRSER model one lists the main jet as #135 and the other at
127.5 probably calif. model, the pilot jets are 42.5 and 37.5 respectively.
Since you have the airbox opened up I would go with a 140 it is always best to
err on the rich side worst case you only foul a plug. Try this and ride it when
you get your suspension parts back. and check your plug color it should be
chocolate brown. It is very easy to over rev the engine in neutral with no load
and hit the rev limiter it will pop and back fire when this happens and you can
misinterpret this as a jetting problem, its better to ride it under load to get
a better idea as to what is happening.
Let me know how this works out. Jesse
Bryan Nolastname wrote:
> Hi Jesse- Good idea about spacing the disks....I hadnt thought about thaat
> but I can certainly see how it would be good insurance and ensure that you
> really get flow thru all the disks.
>
> As far as jetting, I went up 2 sizes on the main jet (cant remember right
> now what that is...135 maybe?), installed a Scott's T-handle pilot
> adjustment screw (currently turned about 2.25 turns out), cut open top of
> airbox and installed a K&N filter. I also T'd the vent tube off the carb.
>
> Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can
> only test the bike in the garage. After it warms up, there is a stumble
> between about 3-4K rpms. I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while
> its sitting in the garage in neutral. Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax
> setup would be appreciated.
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>
> >From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net>
> >Reply-To: jesse@is-plus.net
> >To: Bryan Nolastname <vfrman@hotmail.com>
> >CC: dr350@lists.xmission.com
> >Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust
> >Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 19:57:12 -0700
> >
> >Bryan, The last one of these that I installed, I noticed that to tighten
> >the
> >screws on the disc cap enough to keep them from falling out it compressed
> >the
> >first group of discs so very little flow would go through them did you
> >notice
> >this also?. To correct this I installed two small od 1/4" washers between
> >each
> >disc on each capscrew this spaces all the discs evenly and you can tighten
> >the
> >screws so they don't fall out. What other modifications have you done? this
> >will
> >determine what jetting will need to be done. Get back to me, I will see if
> >we
> >can get you jetted right. Jesse
> >
> >Bryan Nolastname wrote:
> >
> > > I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes.
> >Mine
> > > is on & bike will be put back together soon. I hope I can make any fine
> > > tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw &
> > > removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can.
> > >
> > > Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust.
> >The
> > > bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully
> >evaluate
> > > till I get my suspension back on the bike). There is also a
> >"quiet-core"
> > > insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to
> >share
> > > their setup? --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?)
> > >
> > > Bryan in Dallas
> > > 95 DR350SE
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________________________
> > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
> >
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 22:19:18 -0700
From: Craig Seal & Janice Brinkerhoff <csjb@bmi.net>
Subject: (dr350) Field report on Dynojet Carb / T-handle mod & EZ Arm Clutch
I wanted to post a quick note sharing my experiences with the Dynojet
carb kit, T-handle screw and EZ pull clutch arm when used on my almost
new (and otherwise stock) '97 DR350S (dual-sport).
Installed the Dynojet kit per the recommendations for stock bikes (126
main jet, down from 127.5 stock, new needle, 2.5 turns on the air/fuel
screw.) I found the air/mixture worked better at 2 turns out, but the
screw kept managing to lean itself out to the stock 1 3/4 turns. After
removing the carberator for the fifth time, I elected to get the
T-handle screw; good choice.
The stock jetting had a huge hole off-idle to about 3K, getting better
as the bike warmed up, but not perfect. With the jetting kit,
everything is smooth, but I would be hard pressed to claim any gains in
overall power. Would I do it again for $80? Maybe, but the money would
go a long way toward better tires.
I've experienced the carb. load up / impossible to start issue after
riding/ dropping the bike off road, but haven't located the "how-to" on
the T-vent modification. Suggestions are welcome. Generally, I'm
disappointed with the poor quality of the carberator / throttle / clutch
that came with the bike; for the money, Suzuki could have supplied
better. One of these days, I might spring for an aftermarket
carburator; any suggestions??
Regarding the EZ Pull Clutch Arm (for $20 from White Bros.), I'd pass.
Installation was a pain, as I had to bash in an oil line bracket to
create enough clearance for the arm to move forward (to disengage), yet
in the end, the clutch pull effort hasn't improved much. The technical
support I received from the clutch arm manufacturer was polite, though
what do you do when the technician indicates that the part should fit as
documented and it doesn't?
Good luck to all of you, hope this information helps.
- - Craig
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 06:25:38 -0400
From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com>
Subject: (dr350) needle/spring/t-handle
just ordered my parts yesterday, love that mail order!! Anyway, I
just have a few questions about the carb. The pilot air screw on the
bottom of the carb, what exactly does that do? I am pretty sure it is
an indirect way to meter fuel at low speeds, (i.e. fuel does not flow
past the needle.) I dont know if the bike gets richer as you screw it
in or out.
Also, I kind of blindly ordered the spring, not knowing exactly what
it does. Is it a lighter spring, allowing the slide to move up more
easily, (less velocity through the carb, easier it goes up?)
thanks
Pat
dr350es 94
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:40:02 -0400
From: "J. Carton" <jcarton@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie...
>additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light,
and
>once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine.
>------- and looks much cooler too.
>
HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not
start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've
tried both ways and am having no luck.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 10:51:42 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie...
>>additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate
light,
>and
>>once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine.
>>------- and looks much cooler too.
>>
>
>HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not
>start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've
>tried both ways and am having no luck.
make sure your stop switch isn't in the off position....I don't think the
plate wires are related to the starting circuit....
Kurt
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 13:50:51 -0700
From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net>
Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie...
NO , do not connect the to taillight wires together or you will blow the fuse.
If you disconected the side stand switch make sure you got the right conncetor
disconected .
I would start with the basic stuff.
ignition on
red engine stop switch make sure it is on the on position
pull the clutch lever in
make sure the bike is in netural
it should start ,
if not check the folowing :
make sure you did not blow the fuse when you removed the tail light.
mine has a 20 amp fuse under the left rear fender.
make sure you still have battery power( does the light comes on when you turn
the ignition on?
check the connectors under the left rear fender make sure yuo did not
disconnect anything other than rear tail light.
if all fails try tracing back what ever you disconected ( reconect )
let us know how it goes
George
J. Carton wrote:
> >additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light,
> and
> >once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine.
> >------- and looks much cooler too.
> >
>
> HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not
> start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've
> tried both ways and am having no luck.
------------------------------
End of dr350-digest V1 #49
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