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dr350-digest           Friday, May 14 1999           Volume 01 : Number 048




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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 20:06:59 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Parts needed

Bruce, Just what doesn't fit, gear has less,or more teeth than the one you
are replacing. did they send the bushing with the gear when I ordered the
one for the 91 I worked on had to reorder the bushing, get back to me maybe
I can help Jesse

"Bruce P. Clapp" wrote:

> I need to get a Kick Idle gear and the clutch basket for a 91 DR 350.
> The Kick Idle Gear is the one between the kick starter and the clutch
> basket. I guess there was a engineering change in these parts later that
> year or next and the new parts that the dealer gave me aren't quite
> right. It's almost as if there were mispackaged by Suzuki. Anyway, if
> anyone has an extra engine that they can part out, let me know - I would
> really appreciate it.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Bruce Clapp, MCSE
> Information Systems Administrator
>
> 360-532-9101
> 360-532-1792 (fax)
> http://www.ovalstrapping.com
> J

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 00:02:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Re: Tuning MegaMax/SuperTrapp

Washers work well on any disc type pipe. Opens up the discs, you can use
these to tune also, you can open it up more without buying more discs.
Make sure they are aluminum or they will rust. The ones used for
countersunk wood screws work, the ridge will flatten out when you
tighten up the disc assembly.
                    Jim A.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 23:56:25 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) new to the group

Hello all;

Just signed up this evening to see what other DR350 owners are up to. Mine is
a '93 350 S model (dirt only) I bought used 2 years ago and is essentially
stock (Cycra brush guards, Maier frame protectors and a new set of Daystar
fork boots). I've opened the airbox top and put in a TwinAir filter (I bought
a UNI to compare with). Carb and exhaust are stock. Happy with the power
output but would like to improve the suspenders; anybody out there using the
Kouba link? What about the forks? I just changed the oil and I think it's too
heavy; forks act like they got rocks in 'em. Preload and clickers are at
lightest/softest settings.

Put on a new set of Dunlop 756's; great tires. Anybody else have any feedback?

Mike
'93DR350S

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 22:36:26 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) headlight protection

Bryan Nolastname says:
>....BajaDesigns sure has the ultimate off-road lighting rig.
>Somewhere, I saw that our good old DRs have some of the highest amount of
>juice coming out of their stock electical system....making it uneccesary to
>have a stator rewind to run better lights.

Here is what the nice people at Baja Designs say about the DRS's charging
system:

The 3-phase stator on the DRS puts out about 185 watts. This is enough to
run most electric vests with a wattage range of probably no more than about
60 watts. The Eclipse vest we sell has a power consumption of 45 watts. I do
not know what the draw is for the Widder electric vest.

I've never had a problem with a dead battery running my vest along with
stock headlight. I use a thermostat that automatically turns them on and
off, thus allowing the battery and charging system to rejuvinate regularly.

Baja designs seem to know quite a bit about the bike's electrical system and
what it can and can't do.  Call or email them for details.

TW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 07:34:09 -0400
From: Dave Schirf <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) dr350 parts numbers

I just joined the list so if this has been answered in an FAQ or
something,
point me to it.

How can you figure out the parts numbers that you want to order without
calling the
dealer?

The local dealer has microfiche images on his computer of all the parts
with part numbers.
Does anyone have anything like this?  How about a text list?

Dave
'91 435 DR350S
'94 350 DR350SE

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 05:08:10 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust

Hi Jesse-  Good idea about spacing the disks....I hadnt thought about thaat
but I can certainly see how it would be good insurance and ensure that you
really get flow thru all the disks.

As far as jetting, I went up 2 sizes on the main jet (cant remember right
now what that is...135 maybe?), installed a Scott's T-handle pilot
adjustment screw (currently turned about 2.25 turns out), cut open top of
airbox and installed a K&N filter.  I also T'd the vent tube off the carb.

Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can
only test the bike in the garage.  After it warms up, there is a stumble
between about 3-4K rpms.  I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while
its sitting in the garage in neutral.  Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax
setup would be appreciated.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>To: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
>CC: [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust
>Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 19:57:12 -0700
>
>Bryan, The last one of these that I installed, I noticed that to tighten
>the
>screws on the disc cap enough to keep them from falling out it compressed
>the
>first group of discs so very little flow would go through them did you
>notice
>this also?. To correct  this I installed two small od 1/4" washers between
>each
>disc on each capscrew this spaces all the discs evenly and you can tighten
>the
>screws so they don't fall out. What other modifications have you done? this
>will
>determine what jetting will need to be done. Get back to me, I will see if
>we
>can get you jetted right.  Jesse
>
>Bryan Nolastname wrote:
>
> > I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes.
>Mine
> > is on & bike will be put back together soon.  I hope I can make any fine
> > tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw &
> > removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can.
> >
> > Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust.
>The
> > bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully
>evaluate
> > till I get my suspension back on the bike).  There is also a
>"quiet-core"
> > insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to
>share
> > their setup?  --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?)
> >
> > Bryan in Dallas
> > 95 DR350SE
> >
> > _______________________________________________________________
> > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 06:56:39 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Moab Pre-Registration

Just a reminder to those planning on attending the Utah Get-Together in
Moab, Utah, that there is a pre-registration form  at
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page118.html.  Pre-registration is $30.00
if I receive by 5/26.  Registration at the event is $35.00.  You can also
pre-order the rally T-shirt on that form.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 07:02:12 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Alcohol at Utah Get-Together

With all of the talk of folks bringing their favorite libations to the Utah
Get-Together, I just want to remind everyone that alcoholic beverages are
not allowed at Old City Park where the dinners will be hosted.  This is a
City of Moab ordinance.  Thanks.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:06:36 -0400
From: "David M2 Thompson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Don't Forget Mill Hall, Pa D/S ride

June 5 & 6 Always well organized, with both easy & Super Hero alternates +
the regular route.
12:00 Start
200 mi. + free Barbecue + Tool Pack for pre-registered entrants.  I have
registration form available for e-mail

[e-mail]

David M2 Thompson
AMA# 504560  STOC# 840
Current STable
90 Suzuki DR350S
91 Honda ST1100
94 Honda VFR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 07:02:37 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: new to the group: Suspension?

Welcome aboard, Mike.

There are several levels of suspension improvements; any would be better than
the standard, stock condition.

In this group there are those who have done simple to extensive mods. By
answering the following questions, you should receive enough insight so as to
make a sound decision for your situation:

what type of riding (exploring/play, fast trails, enduros) do you do, how much $
do you want to spend, how do you/others rate your level of skill, and how much
improvement do you have in mind?

John




>Please respond to [e-mail]

>Hello all;

>Just signed up this evening to see what other DR350 owners are up to. Mine is
a '93 350 S model (dirt only) I bought used 2 years ago and is essentially
stock (Cycra brush guards, Maier frame protectors and a new set of Daystar
fork boots)....Happy with the power
output but would like to improve the suspenders; anybody out there using the
Kouba link? What about the forks? I just changed the oil and I think it's too
heavy; forks act like they got rocks in 'em. Preload and clickers are at
lightest/softest settings.

>Put on a new set of Dunlop 756's; great tires. Anybody else have any feedback?

>Mike
'93DR350S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:39:20 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: new to the group: Suspension?

>There are several levels of suspension improvements; any would be better than
>the standard, stock condition.
>
>In this group there are those who have done simple to extensive mods. By
>answering the following questions, you should receive enough insight so as to
>make a sound decision for your situation:
>
>what type of riding (exploring/play, fast trails, enduros) do you do, how much $
>do you want to spend, how do you/others rate your level of skill, and how much
>improvement do you have in mind?
>
>John


John and others, a special word of thanks to you dr350 veterans for your patience in fielding
these questions. We started the KLR list a year ago and that is just the kind of thing that
will give the list a lasting presence. I'm not able to contribute as much because I'm a dr350
newbie myself.

The way you are answering this question is excellent. In my mind I start to imagine a FAQ for
the list or the new Idiot's website and eventually would like to detail and document 3 (or
whatever) different upgrade paths for folks based on the honest answer to the questions you
pose.

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:40:27 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Precision Concepts

>Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can
>only test the bike in the garage.  After it warms up, there is a stumble
>between about 3-4K rpms.  I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while
>its sitting in the garage in neutral.  Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax
>setup would be appreciated.


Bryan, great to hear you are trying Precision. Would you detail your experiences for the list.
What kind of prices did Bob quote you and what did the two of you decide for upgrades?

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:53:45 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Alcohol at Utah Get-Together

>With all of the talk of folks bringing their favorite libations to the Utah
>Get-Together, I just want to remind everyone that alcoholic beverages are
>not allowed at Old City Park where the dinners will be hosted.  This is a
>City of Moab ordinance.  Thanks.
>
>Gino


There is no such ordinance at site #1 Canyonlands RV Park where I will offer myself as libation
tester for the event...

Kurt (sacrifices in the name of science_

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 15:43:17 -0400
From: "Bret Gergely" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Problems DR350SE

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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    I own a 95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the =
mailing list it does not have cartridge forks.  Does this mean that I =
can not buy Race Tech fork and/or shock emulators?  If I bought the =
emulators would my shocks be equivelent to that of a off-road model?  =
Could I install the emulators myself?  How bout the gold valve? What =
about new springs and fluid?
    I was also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non =
vacuum type carburetor?  When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then =
let the bike sit it starts to die out when I give it gas.  Is this =
because it is a vacuum carb or is it becuase the jetting is not right or =
is it becuase the idle is to high (which I doubt)?  Would it be worth it =
to me to buy a Dyno Jet kit and maybe a T handle adjustment screw on =
this carb?  Would it be possible to by a 36mm carb or maybe larger or =
would I never be able to get it jetted correctly?  Just some thoughts =
twirling around my head.
    My plan to make my DR better is to start with the simple stuff first =
and work up to the major mods.  I am still undecided on the big bore =
kit.  Any other thoughts would be appreciated?

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    <FONT =
color=3D#000000>I own a=20
95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the mailing list it =
does=20
not have cartridge forks.  Does this mean that I can not buy Race =
Tech fork=20
and/or shock emulators?  If I bought the emulators would my shocks =
be=20
equivelent to that of a off-road model?  Could I install the =
emulators=20
myself?  How bout the gold valve? What about new springs and=20
fluid?</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT =
color=3D#000000>    I was=20
also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non vacuum type=20
carburetor?  When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then let the =
bike sit=20
it starts to die out when I give it gas.  Is this because it is a =
vacuum=20
carb or is it becuase the jetting is not right or is it becuase the idle =
is to=20
high (which I doubt)?  Would it be worth it to me to buy a Dyno Jet =
kit and=20
maybe a T handle adjustment screw on this carb?  Would it be =
possible to by=20
a 36mm carb or maybe larger or would I never be able to get it jetted=20
correctly?  Just some thoughts twirling around my =
head.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT =
color=3D#000000>    My plan=20
to make my DR better is to start with the simple stuff first and work up =
to the=20
major mods.  I am still undecided on the big bore kit.  Any =
other=20
thoughts would be appreciated?</FONT></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01BE9E20.7C92F360--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 14:16:25 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) List growth...

The list is now at 131 members and growing....keep sharing your experiences...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 14:23:58 -0600
From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Problems DR350SE

Bret:

On Friday, May 14, 1999 1:43 PM, Bret Gergely [SMTP:[e-mail]]
wrote:
>     I own a 95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the
mailing list it does not have cartridge forks.  Does this mean that I can
not buy Race Tech fork and/or shock emulators?  If I bought the emulators
would my shocks be equivelent to that of a off-road model?  Could I install
the emulators myself?  How bout the gold valve? What about new springs and
fluid?

No, it doesn't have cartridge forks, it has the "old" damper rod style
forks. But you can buy Race Tech's cartridge emulators. Installation is not
complicated. Unless you have a compressor and air impact wrench, you may
have trouble getting the damper rod bolt out of the bottom of the fork
tube, though. That's really the biggest potential problem you'll likely
encounter. After that, all you really have to do is drill out (enlarge) a
couple of the orifices in the damper rod, remove the old compression
adjusters, and put everything back together, dropping the emulators into
the fork tube before installing the spring. Race Tech did an excellent job
of documenting the process in the installation instructions. By the way, if
you decide to go the cartridge emulator route, I believe new springs are
required. They're a good investment anyway if you weigh any more than 150
lbs or so.

Will your forks be equivalent to the off-road model's? I haven't ridden the
off-road model, so I have no basis for comparison. I can say, though, that
the emulators and springs help a great deal. My bike handles big bumps so
much better now and the front end just feels more stable. If you have the
bucks, you can have the forks actually converted to cartridge forks. I
think the cost is about $400.

>     I was also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non
vacuum type carburetor?  When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then let
the bike sit it starts to die out when I give it gas.  Is this because it
is a vacuum carb or is it becuase the jetting is not right or is it becuase
the idle is to high (which I doubt)?  Would it be worth it to me to buy a
Dyno Jet kit and maybe a T handle adjustment screw on this carb?  Would it
be possible to by a 36mm carb or maybe larger or would I never be able to
get it jetted correctly?  Just some thoughts twirling around my head.

I think the T-handle pilot adjustment screw is "worth it" no matter what.
Without it, it's virtually impossible to adjust the carb's low speed
circuit without removing the carb from the bike. I also highly recommend
the JX needle and spring from Thumper Racing. It's still a CV carb, but my
bike runs so much better since I opened up the airbox and installed the JX
fix.

Mike T
'96 DR350SE

P.S. If you haven't already done it, get a good set of tires FIRST.

------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #48
**************************