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dr350-digest         Thursday, April 22 1999         Volume 01 : Number 026




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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 20:18:55 -0700
From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with homepages

Congratulation on your new bike !
But if it is your first bike ever how do you know, how did  it run stock,
you say it is much more powerfull than stock???

[e-mail] wrote:

> ThunderSUB wrote:
>
> > I need to replace the stock pipe, noise isn't a problem where I ride,
> > so what do you guys suggest ? I was thinking about FMF.
> >
> > I have a Twin Air Filter but haven't done any mod to the airbox. I
> > know a lot of DR owners cut the top of the standard airbox but as I
> > ride a lot in sand, won't that allow a lot of dirt/sand to get into
> > the engine ?
> >
>
> I just picked up my first ever bike! A '97 DR350SE. The last owner put
> on an FMF Megamax II and it runs excellent, with plenty more power all
> around than stock. He'd also done a nifty airbox mod, involving drilling
> three holes in the side and plugging them with screened, vented ports
> that he treated with oil just like the filter. With the rejetting for
> the new pipe, plus no chance of sand getting in, this seems like the
> perfect solution.
>
> ps. anyone else in New Hampshire?
>
> regards
>
> Chris

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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:22:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: (dr350) new member

I dont know if my mail got out yesterday but hope it does now.I just
found this website and it looks great.I just bought a brand new 98
leftover DR350SE about a month ago.MY buddy has an identical bike and
another with a 96.The three of us ride alot.We live on LongIsland in NY
with plenty of miles of trials to ride.The suspension on my bike is more
tunable than my buddys 96.I can adjust comp and rebound rates in front
and rear.One problem we all have bogging after going over whoops.Whats
the story with these carbs?Any fixes this must be a problem most have.I
had a 94YAMAHA XT225 and sold it.Big rush first time I felt the power
difference.Tanks for any input guys this site is loaded with great
stuff!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:32:37 -0700
From: Brian Bucknam <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: DR 350 tyres

Tony asks:
> Have any of you had any luck using a 120 rear tyre and i now have a spare
set
> of wheels do you know any one who have used pirelli MT60s on a DR350 just
for
> road use.

I bought my used DR with a 120/90 MT21 on the back.  It wasn't until Tom
Warr said 110's were stock that I had any idea the 120 was not stock.  It
works fine from single-track trails to 65mph highway cruising.

I have not heard anything about MT60's, though -- can't help there.


Then he also asks:
> and are stainless steel brake lines worth it i have them on my car
> and they have made a big difference.

I had to replace the front brake pads, so i bought a steel replacement brake
line at the same time.  The brakes are much stronger and do seem to have
better control, but I was replacing worn pads and, probably, the original
1992 fluid and line, so probably anything would seem better.
If nothing else, I found out that the Suzuki stock replacement brake line
part is about $80, while the stainless steel aftermarket one was only $40 --
another reason to switch :-)

Brian
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:45:00 -0700
From: Brian Bucknam <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (DR350) Tube Q's

This probably sounds like a dumb question to some of you, but I DID search
around on the web w/o finding an answer...  Maybe other inquiring minds
would also like to know.

I'm going to buy a new rear tire and some tire irons and replace it myself
- -- I feel a lot more comfortable doing this with a tube tire than with the
tubeless tires on my street bike.  So, I know I want a 120/90 x 18 tire, but
many of the tubes seem to be sold not by 120/90 sizes, but by 3.0-3.5 sizes.

My questions are:
1 - I assume the "3.0" size means 3 inch diameter.  I know the 120/90 is
some kind of millimeter measurement, but what is it, exactly?

Leading to my second question...
2 - What size tube do you get for a 120/90? (Esp. if the tube is sold in
inches)  Also, since some of the tubes do say "100/110", do you buy a tube
with the same dimension as the tire, or slightly smaller?  Is there a web
page with a 'conversion table' or 'application chart'?

naturally progressing to the next issue, price:
3 - There's a wide price variance between different tubes.  Metzeler's "pure
rubber" ones are $15 for regular and $25 for 'heavy duty', while brand X is
only like $7.  Do you really get what you pay for?  Any specific
recommendations?

and finally,
4 - I've read a couple recommendations saying "Get tire irons at least 1
foot long".  So size DOES matter -- anything else to look for here?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 01:03:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Tires

Brian,
You need a 4.50 x 18 tube. A 4.25 or 5.00 will also work. Smaller ones
will stretch too much. Motion Pro tire irons with a curve in them work
well, You will need at least one tire iron 12 inches long for good
leverage. Everyone has their own opinion about tube quality, just like
tires.
                            Jim A.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 05:07:08 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Survey says....(was: dr350 carb mod survey)

Hey guys-  if 'yall remember my "carb mod survey" (quoted at end of
this msg), here are the results:

A whopping 7 people responded-
4 have done the spring/needle replacement and changed the jetting
2 have done nothing more than pull the plug from the top of the airbox
1 has done the spring/needle change only
1 has put on a whole new flat-side Mik carb
(for all you bean-counters, this adds up to 8 'cause I count myself
in the first category)

Everybody (except me!- but I know what I screwed up) seems to be
happy with the results of what they did to their carb.  The only
thing this goes to show is that there are alot of ways to run the
DR!  I think this speaks well of the bike; there are many bikes that
just plain SUCK unless the carb is spot-on...I've had a few!

In related news, speaking w/ Thumper Racing yesterday....no news on
when their version of a "majic airbox" will be in production, but
they said that real soon they will be offering a carb kit for the
DR350SE which will consist of the same Mikuni carb found on the later
dirt-only DRs, + the rubber manifolds on ea end of the carb to make
it fit to the stock airbox, + new throttle cable/assembly.  The guy
said their whole kit should be cheaper than the carb alone from a
Suzy dealer.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE
98 ZX-6R -sold last night :(  I'm in mourning----but plenty of $ for
DR mods now :?)


>I seem to recall seeing alot of folks on this list saying the JX
>needle/spring was the only thing they needed.  Can I get a little
head
>count here?  Please indicate, with or without comments, which of the
>following scenarios applies to you:>
>ABSN: I did airbox/filter mods with just the spring/needle fix>
>ABSNJ: I did airbox/filter mods, and went a step further & changed
>main and/or pilot jets in addition to the spring/needle fix>
>ABESN: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with just the
>spring/needle fix>>ABESNJ: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods
with the
>spring/needle fix and jetting changes>
>OTHER:  Any combination not mentioned above>
>I guess the above should only apply to SE owners, as the dirt-only
>carb is a whole different ballgame.>
>I will keep track of how many "votes" each of the above options
>receive and post the results after a few days.



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:28:00 -0400
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) (DR350) Tube Q's

I believe 120 is the millimeters of the width of the tire and the 90 is the
percent of the width that is the size of the side wall, so 90 percent of 120
is 108 millimeters.
Convert that to us and you have your answer

As far as changing the tire, it 90% technique and 10% tire iron size.  The
guy on my rny enduro club truck can change a tire in 7-8 minutes using 6
inch irons.

actaully do yourself a favor and buy 3 irons.
 ----------
From: Brian Bucknam
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) (DR350) Tube Q's
Date: Thursday, April 22, 1999 12:45AM

This probably sounds like a dumb question to some of you, but I DID search
around on the web w/o finding an answer...  Maybe other inquiring minds
would also like to know.

I'm going to buy a new rear tire and some tire irons and replace it myself
 -- I feel a lot more comfortable doing this with a tube tire than with the
tubeless tires on my street bike.  So, I know I want a 120/90 x 18 tire, but
many of the tubes seem to be sold not by 120/90 sizes, but by 3.0-3.5 sizes.

My questions are:
1 - I assume the "3.0" size means 3 inch diameter.  I know the 120/90 is
some kind of millimeter measurement, but what is it, exactly?

Leading to my second question...
2 - What size tube do you get for a 120/90? (Esp. if the tube is sold in
inches)  Also, since some of the tubes do say "100/110", do you buy a tube
with the same dimension as the tire, or slightly smaller?  Is there a web
page with a 'conversion table' or 'application chart'?

naturally progressing to the next issue, price:
3 - There's a wide price variance between different tubes.  Metzeler's "pure
rubber" ones are $15 for regular and $25 for 'heavy duty', while brand X is
only like $7.  Do you really get what you pay for?  Any specific
recommendations?

and finally,
4 - I've read a couple recommendations saying "Get tire irons at least 1
foot long".  So size DOES matter -- anything else to look for here?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:38:42 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Tube Q's

"Sperduto, Nick" wrote:
.
>
> actaully do yourself a favor and buy 3 irons.

And a couple $3 snap-on plastic rim protectors.  They work wonders (for me,
anyway.)

I've also found a spoon-like device (flat, wide, but thin) that helps out.

Bryan
'96 DR441

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 10:45:53 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: dr350 carb mod survey

James,

Give Rob Barnum a call @ [phone]. He has a well-used 385 the's been
racing since '83 and has extensive experience with carbs, even working for
Edelbrock (Quicksilver). He has since left them and has his own repair/mod
business. He may say the Mikuni is junk, but don't let that stop you from
pressing for further help.

John




[e-mail] (James Adler) on 04/17/99 07:56:24 PM

Please respond to [e-mail] (James Adler)

To:   [e-mail]
cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
Subject:  (dr350) Re: dr350 carb mod survey




I use a 34 mm flatslide Mikuni (White Bros) with their 385 kit. If
anyone else uses this carb I would be interested in your jetting specs.
I find this carb picky about the jetting, very temp dependent.
                           Jim A.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 11:49:14 -0600
From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 12:49:31 -0500

Awesome list!
I have a '92 DR350S and just cut holes in the top of the airbox.  It runs
lean so I am planning a rejet job.  I've been gathering info so I'll give
what I learned.  K&N's stage I&II rejet kit #81-9194 ($57) is recommended if
you remove the door from the airbox but not if you cut holes in the top.
This particular kit doesn't have larger jets.  I was told to get a larger
main and pilot jet from the Suzuki dealer if I cut holes in the top of the
airbox.
I am interested in this JXneedle mentioned in the list.  Who carries it?
This sounds like the simplest solution.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 13:20:57 -0600
From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:21:32 -0500

This is outrageously awesome!
I just asked a question and within 40min I have an answer.  I just ordered
the JX needle and spring from thumper racing.  Thanks Mike and Kurt.  Before
getting this info, I was floundering around asking my friends how to correct
the carb problem.  One said I needed a richer main jet.  Another said I
needed a richer main and pilot jet.  A "mechanic" on AOL said I needed to
change the air jet and use racing gas.  One bike shop said "there's nothing
aftermarket out there for dr350's - whoops - here's something from Cobra for
$60."  The guy at Cycle Gear said "my mechanic will call you and give you
specs on the new main jet to get."  The Suzuki dealer in town (who by the
way sucks) let me talk to the mechanic (who sucks too) who told me not to
modify the airbox but since I did it I might be able to correct the damage
with a richer main jet and pilot jet.  He also said to pull the factory plug
off the pilot screw and "play around" with it and that I should bring the
bike in to be fixed after I've done all the damage I can.  All I can say is
thank you for this bike saving site!!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 16:17:55 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) starter button on DR-se models

Has anyone relocated the starter button on their DRse models? Mine is a '97
with that crappy molded housing that contains the starter button (the plate
inside that contains the switch has broken, and I temp. fixed it with some
play-doh for support!) and the kill switch. I am going to relocate these
switches and get rid of the housing so I can cut the bars down and still run
my bark busters. Does anyone know of a good source for reliable switches??
Also, I need a good tire that will hold up for longer than 200 miles of
street riding, that is all I can get out of knobs. I ride about 85% dirt,
ride street only to link trails together, and occasionally just to terrorize
my town! Waiting for replies!
                                       Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 15:16:48 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) list growth...

+AD4-This is outrageously awesome+ACE-


Just the beginning...just the beginning...wait a year or two until we get some gray hairs (I
already have some to share) and we aren't strangers to one another...on the KLR list we walk
people through one problem after another...it just takes time to incorporate the beginning
knowledge of some and the great knowledge of others. Eventually we'll have 2 or 3 upgrade paths
for different kinds of riders....it is going to be a little tricky on the DR because of the
dirt version and the street version, the bike is very versatile...

Kurt (113 listers and growing each day...keep spreading the word you are doing great)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 15:23:51 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) list growth...

>>it is going to be a little tricky on the DR because of the
dirt version and the street version, the bike is very versatile...<<

Excuse me.  There are only two versions of the DR350.  The ones that start
easy (electric) and the ones that don't.  JUST KIDDING.  Hey let's start a
webring!

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 15:54:23 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) list growth...

>Excuse me.  There are only two versions of the DR350.  The ones that start
>easy (electric) and the ones that don't.  JUST KIDDING.  Hey let's start a
>webring!
>
>Gino


I know just the man for the job!

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 19:10:05 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:21:32 -0500

 My local Suzuki dealer sucks as well. I remember when I was a kid my father
and I spent many hours at the cycle shop just shooting the bull with the
owner. In those days your dealer was your best source of info on how to
improve your bike. Now they just want you to come in (preferably with a part
number) order your parts and not come back until your parts come in (two or
three weeks later).

Mike A.
Nashville

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End of dr350-digest V1 #26
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