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dr-digest           Tuesday, April 11 2000           Volume 01 : Number 095



(dr) Dallas Supercross
RE: (dr) Dunlop D606 and k139
RE: (dr) drz-400E and bajadesign kit
Re: (dr) Dunlop D606 and k139
(dr) Voodoo bike (long)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 09:38:24 -0500
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Dallas Supercross

Went to the SuperCross here in big D last Saturday. Man, what an event!!! Back
in the day when I raced(20yrs ago), who would have thought things would get this
nuts. This was a very hard track. They should have had an air traffic controller
there to sort all of the flying machines out. I have a new found respect for
some of these "KIDS". I would never have attempted the things they do now that
are just second nature to them. I will say that I did get that itch at 12:30am
to get the DR350 out and go find a hill to fly off of. I forgot how wonderful
that feeling of pure adrenaline was. Hey Bent, Muenster has some great places to
jump from :^)

The best part of the race was the final heat. Showtime goes down right after
getting the holeshot and EVERY(20+) rider gives him a face full of Texas clay
roost. By the 17th lap Big Mac moved to 4th place and that's where he finished.
FRIGGIN UNBELIEVABLE RIDING!!! Without a doubt the best ride I have ever
witnessed. You know, you can say what you want about the guy, but there has
never been one like him! He's kinda like Ali, ya love to hate him. He's just so
Damn good!!!

Ric
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 09:39:36 -0700
From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Dunlop D606 and k139

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    I have used both the MT21 and the D606.  They both work equally as good
in the dirt and sand.  The MT21 seems to make less noise on the pavement.
But so far, I like the way the D606 wears better than the MT21.  The MT21 is
about $10 cheaper than the D606.  If you are planning on riding 90% off road
I would go with full knobbies like Dunlop D739, and be careful on the
pavement.  You will be much happier with the performance of knobbies tires.
If you let the tire pressure down to 12-15 psi for the sand, I would
definitely use a rim lock.  Its not that much harder to change the tire with
one on.

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego



  -----Original Message-----
  From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of jnugent
  Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2000 6:43 AM
  To: d r
  Subject: (dr) Dunlop D606 and k139


  Hi all, has anyone tried this combination a D606 in the rear and a k139
front? My stock tires on my dual sport are in need of replacement and I am
trying to decide between this combo. and the MT 21s. Also are rim locks
something I should add and should I replace the stock tubes with heavy duty
ones? The bike only has 1400 miles on it so the tubes should still be in
good shape. I should also mention that I ride 90% offroad, woods and sandy
loose soil. Thanks for the input.
                                  Jim Nugent  97 350 SE

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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
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<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D960252116-10042000>    I have used both the MT21 =
and the=20
D606.  They both work equally as good in the dirt and sand.  =
The MT21=20
seems to make less noise on the pavement.  But so far, I like the =
way the=20
D606 wears better than the MT21.  The MT21 is about $10 cheaper =
than the=20
D606.  If you are planning on riding 90% off road I would go with =
full=20
knobbies like Dunlop D739, and be careful on the pavement.  You =
will be=20
much happier with the performance of knobbies tires.  If you let =
the tire=20
pressure down to 12-15 psi for the sand, I would definitely use a rim=20
lock.  Its not that much harder to change the tire with one =
on. =20
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D960252116-10042000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D960252116-10042000>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Jeff Corsaro in San Diego </FONT></P>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[e-mail]=20
  [mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On Behalf Of=20
  </B>jnugent<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, April 08, 2000 6:43 =
AM<BR><B>To:</B> d=20
  r<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) Dunlop D606 and k139<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi all, has anyone tried this =
combination a D606=20
  in the rear and a k139 front? My stock tires on my dual sport are in =
need of=20
  replacement and I am trying to decide between this combo. and the MT =
21s. Also=20
  are rim locks something I should add and should I replace the stock =
tubes with=20
  heavy duty ones? The bike only has 1400 miles on it so the tubes =
should still=20
  be in good shape. I should also mention that I ride 90% offroad, woods =
and=20
  sandy loose soil. Thanks for the input.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
  =
size=3D2>          &nbs=
p;            =
;        =20
  Jim Nugent  97 350 SE</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 09:51:22 -0700
From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) drz-400E and bajadesign kit

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    On the new DRz, it is very easy to convert it to a dual-sport because of
the electric start, battery and charging system.  I am not that impressed
with the wiring harness included with the Baja-designs kit.  When I bought
my Yamaha TTR250, I wired it my self.  The wiring harness I made looks like
the OE Yamaha one.  You can buy turn signals, switch and tail light from any
motorcycle dealer that can order from Parts Unlimited or Motorcycle Stuff.
    If you keep the battery in good condition,  you will never have a
problem with the electric start.  If you have a dual sport kit, wire a relay
in for the headlight.  When you stall, the headlamp will discharge the small
battery in less than five minuets.

I have a web page I made six months ago for my Yamaha that show how I
installed the wiring and street lighting.
http://www.members.home.com/jcorsaro/ttr250.html

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego

  -----Original Message-----
  From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of preisinger
  Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2000 9:46 AM
  To: [e-mail]
  Subject: (dr) drz-400E and bajadesign kit


  I purchased a DRz-400E yesterday and ordered the bajadesign kit.
Bajadesign said 5 weeks for delivery ... yuk ?  Is it worth the wait, are
there any other alternatives ?

  I also plan to get the optional kick starter installed in case the
electric starter fails  .. any comments on how necessary this is ?

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Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D070403216-10042000>    On the new DRz, it is very =
easy to=20
convert it to a dual-sport because of the electric start, battery =
and=20
charging system.  I am not that impressed with the wiring harness =
included=20
with the Baja-designs kit.  When I bought my Yamaha TTR250, I wired =
it my=20
self.  The wiring harness I made looks like the OE Yamaha =
one.  You=20
can buy turn signals, switch and tail light from any motorcycle dealer =
that can=20
order from Parts Unlimited or Motorcycle Stuff.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D070403216-10042000>    If you keep the battery in =
good=20
condition,  you will never have a problem with the electric =
start.  If=20
you have a dual sport kit, wire a relay in for the headlight.  When =
you=20
stall, the headlamp will discharge the small battery in less than five=20
minuets.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D070403216-10042000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D070403216-10042000>I have=20
a web page I made six months ago for my Yamaha that show how I installed =
the=20
wiring and street lighting.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D070403216-10042000><A=20
href=3D"http://www.members.home.com/jcorsaro/ttr250.html">http://www.memb=
ers.home.com/jcorsaro/ttr250.html</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D070403216-10042000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D070403216-10042000>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Jeff Corsaro in San Diego =
</FONT></P></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[e-mail]=20
  [mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On Behalf Of=20
  </B>preisinger<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, April 08, 2000 9:46 =
AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
  [e-mail]<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) drz-400E and bajadesign=20
  kit<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I purchased a DRz-400E yesterday and ordered the =
bajadesign=20
  kit.  Bajadesign said 5 weeks for delivery ... yuk ?  Is it =
worth=20
  the wait, are there any other alternatives ?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I also plan to get the optional kick starter =
installed in=20
  case the electric starter fails  .. any comments on how necessary =
this is=20
  ?</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BFA2D2.54111220--


- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 00:07:22 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Dunlop D606 and k139

I have a D606 with a rim lock on my 99 DR350S.  Great on dirt and good
cornering on the street, very durable.  Can beat a rim locks unless you enjoy
tearing the valve stem out of you tube.  Also, recently installed Vortex
Airbox, JX Spring, Needle and 142.5 main.  Made an incredible difference.
Monster wheelies!!!  Impressive performance gains over stock set-up.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 09:28:42 -0500
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Voodoo bike (long)

My bike is posessed.

Symptoms:

1 week ago we trailered the bikes 1 hour to one of the local dirt bike ranches.
Upon arrival the Suzuki would not start. I put in a new plug and it started.
Rode the bike perhaps 4 hours. It rained hard that day, so we didn't get much
riding in. But everything was completely covered in texas clay mud. EVERYTHING.

Saturday I had the bike out and was trying to get it started. It wouldn't do
anything. I removed the plug and put it in second gear, pushed it to make sure
the piston was moving and got covered in gas. I mean alot of gas came spraying
out of the spark plug hole. I striped it down and cleaned the carb, air filter,
and plug. It fired right up and ran great.

Sunday a friend borrowed the Suzuki. Trailered it about 20 minutes. Pulled up at
riding area. Started the bike and pulled it about 10 feet away from the truck.
It stalled.

And that's the last time it ran on Sunday. He tried everything. Even
field-stripped the entire carb. All the necessary elements for ignition were
present. Spark looked OK, fuel was fine, air was fine.

He spent three hours trying to get it running. Drove it home. Parked it. Tried
to start it again Sunday night. No luck.

Went to Suzuki dealer in their new, nifty building. Buy a new spark plug for TEN
BUCKS! (I'm still trying to figure out why they're so expensive.) Install new
plug. Bike started in 5 seconds, ran fine. Pulled that plug out and put the old
plug in. Wouldn't start.

Remember, this is an expensive dual-tip NGK that had only about 5 HOURS of
running time that had been working fine the day before.

I'm clueless as to what's killing these spark plugs. I'm reaching out to the
mechanical gurus of this list for any and all advice.


My friend posted this out to the Suzuki list and got the following
answers.......

REPLIES START HERE ==============================================
I'm no bike expert but I'm pretty good on electric stuff. I'm gona say
your spark is not going to the tip of the plug and giving you combustion
in the cylinder. I think you're getting the spark running down the
outside of the plug due to contamination.. Clean the outside of the
"bad" plug really good with some isopropyl alcohol pay attention to the
ceramic insulator area.  Reinstall it and see if it works. Spark is like
me,(lazy)we both take the path of least resistance. It has to be going
to ground instead of the electrode. I can't imagine the plug core is
breaking down and opening up . Also try starting it in a dark garage or
at nite to see if the spark is jumping from the wire to ground.A crack
in the plug wire can allow this. A brand new plug may have less
resistance than one that has been run,once the resistance of the plug is
greater than the cracked wire the spark will go out the cracked rubber
wire.
==============================================================

Sounds a lot like what my RMX just did.  Sounds like an electrical system
on its way out.  Remember, just because it sparks outside the cylinder,
doesn't mean it will spark inside.  (Its harder for a spark to jump under
compression.)

Mine turned out to be one little loose connection at the black box.  A new
plug would work, but not for long.  Old plugs sparked outside the cylinder,
but would not run the bike.  Now after fixing the connector (which didn't
visually look bad.), it runs with any plugs.

Unscrew the spark plug cap, and try jumping the spark directly from the hi
tension lead, to the head (or exhaust pipe).  It should easily jump 3/4 -
1inch & be a bright blue.  If not, start checking the stator for good
power.  Then work you way up.

Before this, you should go over the whole bike checking connectors & wires
for bad connections or shorts.  The first time I did this, I found two, not
bad, but not good connectors, cleaned them both, and the bike ran fine
again. (for a while.)

As I said, my real problem, the blackbox connection didn't look visually
bad, so it could only be found with the right testing gear.  If you don't
have it, I would suggest, doing what you can, clean connectors, check for
shorts, etc. Then take it to someone who can test it properly.  I decided
on my local dealer, as he could easily swap bits with other bikes to find
the problem quickly.

And disconnect the kill switch, then you know its not a t fault.

=====================================================================


Any other advise?

Ric Aruffo
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #95
***********************

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