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2000-02-22
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From: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr-digest)
To: dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr-digest V1 #47
Reply-To: dr-digest
Sender: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr-digest Tuesday, February 22 2000 Volume 01 : Number 047
Re: (dr) Trailers
(dr) fork oil change (DR350)
Re: (dr) My 98 DR350 vs 00XR400 details inside!!!!
RE: (dr) fork oil change (DR350)
RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
Re: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
(dr) High Idle
RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
RE: (dr) High Idle
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 01:22:37 -0800
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Trailers
From: Doug B <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Trailers
> Sometimes I'd like to have a small trailer like that to use for local
rides
> because my trailer is overkill for anything other than overnight camping
> trips that involve riding.
> The other day I created a web page about the trailer that can be seen at:
> http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/trlr/trailer.htm
>
> Doug
> 94 350SE
Hey Doug, what are the interior dimensions of that trailer of yours?
Cheers,
Arne
KLR650 Listmeister
Eh 13
www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage
http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 08:07:27 -0600
From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: (dr) fork oil change (DR350)
I was planning on changing the fork oil in my forks tonight after work and I
had a couple of questions. I have a 99' DR350X (dirt version) with the
compression and dampening adjusters on the top and bottom of the forks,
should I adjust them to one extreme (hard or soft) or is it ok to leave them
to what I have them set at now. Next question is, does anyone know the
proper amount of oil to add to the forks? Lastly, is there any special
tools or tricks needed to do the job?
Thanks in advance, Chris
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 11:09:25 EST
From: Dhchas@cs.com
Subject: Re: (dr) My 98 DR350 vs 00XR400 details inside!!!!
John,
Thanks for the report. I am curious if you have checked your mileage with
your current set-up. With my stock set-up and an Acerbis 4.5 gal. tank, my
bike gets about 54 mpg on the highway and 65 mpg off road. I have well over
200 miles on tap, regardless of the conditions, which is always reassuring.
It seems that the mods you have done are a nice way to go for some additional
snap.
Harral Chastain
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 08:20:00 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) fork oil change (DR350)
HI Chris, first make sure that you have a socket the best choice, or a
large crescent wrench default choice that will fit the hex on the fork cap
(channel lock pliers not a choice). Prior to attempting to loosen the fork
cap you will have to loosen the two top pinch bolts only. remove the weight
from the front wheel then you can loosen the fork cap. Once the fork cap is
loose you can remove the front wheel you can now loosen the bottom pinch
bolts and the front brake caliper bolts then slide the fork down and out of
the triple clamps. Once you remove the cap you will have to separate it from
the damper rod that is screwed into it and a locking nut is on the damper
rod tightened up against the cap that must be loosened prior to unscrewing
the cap from the damper rod. Once you get the cap off pull out the spring
and collapse the fork assembly and measure the level of the oil from the top
edge of the fork tube. This will give you a base level and you can go from
there when you refill them with new oil I usually go with a 5 and one half
inches. You can now dump out the oil and pump the forks until all the oil is
removed. Fill the forks with a light cartridge fork oil 7and one half wt
Maxima or motul are good choices this measurement thing is always done with
the spring out and totally collapsed mode you must pump the forks up and
down until every thing is filled inside prior to measuring the oil level.
Once the level is established you can reinstall the spring after you pull up
the damper rod attach the rod to the cap and screw it in all the way then
lock the locking nut up against the cap and screw the cap into the top of
the fork tube just snug the cap into the fork tube it will not loosen up
once the pinch bolts are tight. Now you know what you are facing with the
second fork if you have more Questions give me call or e-mail.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of Chris Tobey
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 6:07 AM
To: 350 Mail List (E-mail)
Subject: (dr) fork oil change (DR350)
I was planning on changing the fork oil in my forks tonight after work and I
had a couple of questions. I have a 99' DR350X (dirt version) with the
compression and dampening adjusters on the top and bottom of the forks,
should I adjust them to one extreme (hard or soft) or is it ok to leave them
to what I have them set at now. Next question is, does anyone know the
proper amount of oil to add to the forks? Lastly, is there any special
tools or tricks needed to do the job?
Thanks in advance, Chris
- -
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
- -
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 09:01:05 -0800
From: "Greg Lara" <gregl@aptix.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
I bump start my '94 DR350SE all the time. I am afraid of running the battery
down when in the wilderness. When I get ready to kill the motor, I try to
make sure that I stop uphill. I just coast downhill in 2nd gear to start her
back up. I save the battery for the times when I crash or stall in a
position that does not allow me to bump start the bike.
I have push started the bike by myself on pavement, but it is very
difficult. I think it would not be possible on a flat dirt road or trail.
- --Greg
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of mikko vimpari
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:53 PM
To: dr@lists.xmission.com
Subject: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Hi guys Thanks Andy and Jan
My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying thought)
Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE.
How painful is the process,would it be really
expensive operation.What are the parts you need.
That leads to my second question, is it possible or easy to
push start SE,despite of that it's lacking manual
de-compression lever.
I have once been stuck to the wilds with a dead
battery(Honda NX 650), there's no way that bike would
push start, no matter what gear on. (desperate moments)
Thanks
Mikko Vimpari
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 22:08:29 +0200
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
Thanks for replying guys
I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
Is that automatic decompression system connected
to the starter knob?
If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
and same time press the starter knob( that would
activate decompression system),so bike would
start easier.
I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
wrong.
Many thanks
Mikko Vimpari
- -
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:10:27 +0200
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
Sorry, i forgot to mention, of course i was talking about the bike with a
dead battery
Mikko
- ----- Original Message -----
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
To: <dr@lists.xmission.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 10:08 PM
Subject: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
> Thanks for replying guys
>
> I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
> Is that automatic decompression system connected
> to the starter knob?
> If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
> and same time press the starter knob( that would
> activate decompression system),so bike would
> start easier.
> I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
> wrong.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Mikko Vimpari
>
>
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
- -
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 18:55:29 -0500
From: "Hoge, Neill" <Neill.Hoge@mail.va.gov>
Subject: (dr) High Idle
Hi list,
Please let me introduce myself, my name is Neill in Spotsylvania, VA. I
bought a 99 350 dirt last May, and have lurking around this great list from
soon after. The bike has around 1400 miles, all close to home on logging
trails. (pulpwood). Its the first time I've ha da bike since I got married,
12 or so years ago, and I should have never stopped riding! Bike is all
stock -- although I got a baja light kit and plan on performance mods (can't
go wrong with the Vortex airbox, jetting and exhaust i have learned
here).The bike got harder to start in the fall/winter -- I attributed it to
the colder temps. Who ever gave that tip about tipping the bike on its side
and back upright (this works for me)has saved me many a kick, I'm
convinced!! Now, after the bike warms up, it tends to go into a high idle
when I throttle down or put in neutral for a pit stop. revving it does no
good -- if I put it in a higher gear (put some strain on the engine) it will
slow down. I'm wondering if the hard to start problem and fast idle are
related, although they didn't start at the same time. Also, been riding in
snow, cutover trees and alot of mud lately, is it possible that something is
plugged with mud or something?
Any feedback appreciated and thanks to all.
- -
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:57:19 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
HI Mikko, your compression release on DR350se's after 1994 are built into
the camshaft and have no manual compression release. The compression will be
relieved until the motor starts. The compression release device in the cam
disengages once the motor starts by centrifugal force.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of mikko vimpari
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:08 PM
To: dr@lists.xmission.com
Subject: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
Thanks for replying guys
I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
Is that automatic decompression system connected
to the starter knob?
If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
and same time press the starter knob( that would
activate decompression system),so bike would
start easier.
I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
wrong.
Many thanks
Mikko Vimpari
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
- -
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 18:17:40 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) High Idle
Hi Hoge, I would say check your cables and make sure your choke is pushed in
all the way. Try reaching in and pushing the carb wheel that the cables are
attached to to the closed position. The carb can get a little scuzzy under
the black top cover also. It should snap back with authority when you open
the throttle and just let it go. You might also check the throttle assembly
and make sure it is free and about 1/8 inch away from the handlebar end.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of Hoge, Neill
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 3:55 PM
To: dr@lists.xmission.com
Subject: (dr) High Idle
Hi list,
Please let me introduce myself, my name is Neill in Spotsylvania, VA. I
bought a 99 350 dirt last May, and have lurking around this great list from
soon after. The bike has around 1400 miles, all close to home on logging
trails. (pulpwood). Its the first time I've ha da bike since I got married,
12 or so years ago, and I should have never stopped riding! Bike is all
stock -- although I got a baja light kit and plan on performance mods (can't
go wrong with the Vortex airbox, jetting and exhaust i have learned
here).The bike got harder to start in the fall/winter -- I attributed it to
the colder temps. Who ever gave that tip about tipping the bike on its side
and back upright (this works for me)has saved me many a kick, I'm
convinced!! Now, after the bike warms up, it tends to go into a high idle
when I throttle down or put in neutral for a pit stop. revving it does no
good -- if I put it in a higher gear (put some strain on the engine) it will
slow down. I'm wondering if the hard to start problem and fast idle are
related, although they didn't start at the same time. Also, been riding in
snow, cutover trees and alot of mud lately, is it possible that something is
plugged with mud or something?
Any feedback appreciated and thanks to all.
- -
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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- -
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------
End of dr-digest V1 #47
***********************
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