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dr-digest         Thursday, February 17 2000         Volume 01 : Number 041



Re: (dr) DR350 Length
RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
(dr) wheelie gearing
(dr) FW: 2000 Utah Get-Together
Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Re: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
RE: (dr) gas flow on a 94 441
RE: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 09:37:18 -0500
From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length

Bryan,

I own a little 4x6 trailer and my 94350SE fits in it perfectly.  Therefore,
yours should too, unless it is 4ft long & 6ft wide (then it would have to
be put in sideways :-).

Heston

Bryan Ply wrote:

> Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure
> out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off
> the front wheel.  If I have to take the front wheel off can someone
> explain the procedure for taking it off.
>
> Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a
> friends house.
>
> Bryan
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 06:37:50 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change

Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be
fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a
tachometer so you can see the rpm's. You will probably have to add a short
section of links to the chain with a master on each end. The chain is
probably an end less one so you will have to grind the riveted head off
flush with the plate then separate it with a chain breaker. Then take the
chain in with you when you go to purchase the master links and short section
of chain so you get the same or compatible parts to match the chain that you
have. The newer masterlinks are a press on type so they have to be pushed on
past the groove where the clip goes. This makes them more secure than the
old ones that we used to deal with. Hope this helps.......Jesse
- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of Eric Myers
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 6:00 AM
To: 'dr350'
Subject: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change


The weather in the Chicago region is beginning to change and in a few more
weeks I'll be able to drag the 350 from storage and start riding once
again.

I bought the bike, a '99 SE, last year and had a great time chugging around
on it but noticed, with my big tail on it, the lack of on demand wheelie
power.  I understand that the street/dirt version of this bike has a
slightly different gear ratio than its dirt only brethren.  I'd like to
change from the 15/43 (I think that's stock) to a 14/47 and was wondering
how much easier it will be to loft the front wheel over obstacles as
compared to the enormous help I have to give it now.  How much of a change
did you notice once you made your gearing change and headed for the woods.
 Did you need to replace or lengthen the chain?

I'm not particularly concerned about road performance since I rarely ever
go beyond a town ride when on the street.

I'm probably going to buy Jesse's airbox for it as well which should also
help in the much needed oomph department.  Beyond these two changes I don't
see me changing much else this year...well tires...I need a better set of
tires...something for intermediate terrain would be good.

Thanks
Eric


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 22:09:09 -0500
From: Eric Jasniewicz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) wheelie gearing

don't forget you are changing the wheelbase, and the center of gravity (or
something like that, it changes the "balance point" when wheelying)  when
you change sprocket sizes using the same chain length.  My KLR wheelies much
easier with a 16t front sprocket then with a 14 or 15 front.  Even in second
gear. Who wudda thunk?

Eric "no problem" J
www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page
'98 KLR 650 25,000 miles


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 09:20:40 -0700
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) FW: 2000 Utah Get-Together

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of [e-mail]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:56 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: 2000 Utah Get-Together


The 2000 Utah Get-Together will be held in Moab, Utah on June 7,8,9,10.  Registration
forms and lodging information is located at http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com/ or
http://www.dualsport.org/

Registration fee includes 3 catered dinners, a reception, door prizes and entertainment.

Join us for 4 days in dual sport heaven.

Gino


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:28:13 -0800
From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change

"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be
> fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a

Eric and Jesse,
    My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a
noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I
also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it
this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain,
only readjust it. I think it will also be able to be adjusted properly
with the 13. I ran up gear charts for each using GearCalc. If you don't
have it, I could zip it and email to you. I also got a horsepower curve
for a dirt model engine, and extrapolated the torque curve, so I could
determine the best shift points. Jesse, would you happen to have a copy
of hp or torque curves for the CA street model?
    My riding weight is about 250, and although the extra punch is nice, I
don't feel the lower gears are necessary for normal street and back road
riding. For single tracks I'd change it to one of the lower ones. It is
a bit buzzy with the 14 at 60 mph and above. This would also, of course,
impact your mileage as well.
- --
    Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
    "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
        "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
    BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
    Suzuki DR350SE
    Honda SOHC4 #539
    Yamaha YSR50
    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
             Member:
    BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
    Internet BMW Riders
    Airheads Beemer Club #165
            Baja Airmarshal (?)
    Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
    National Rifle Association
    http://www.mikthebik.com/
    (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)

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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:34:49 GMT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441

Isaac,

Thanks a lot for your information, I'll give the straight "on" a try...hopefully
it will take care of the flooding.   My guess is that my fuel pump isn't sealing
and is causing air to bleed into  the fuel line... creating a version of vacuum
lock.

Another question for you... I see that there is an air vent on the right hand
side of the fuel tank.. up on the inside.  I know that on the Calf. bikes, that
goes to an anti pollution device.  On non-Calif bikes, is it suppose to go anywhere
or should it just equalize the pressure in the tank?

Thanks again for your help,

Steve

>I have the manual, and have read about the petcock.  You are supposed to
>ALWAYS leave it on "on", even when you shut the bike off, or store it for
>long periods.  Sinse it's auto, it will shut off by itself.  "pri" is used

>when you go to COLD start the bike.  What it does, is it will allow gas to

>poor into the carb directly, wich is needed when the bike has been off for
a
>while.  It helps it start quicker.  And of course, you know when to use
>reserver : )    So if you are leaving your bike in pri all the time, that
>would probably explain why it is always flooded.  Once the bike starts, you

>switch to "on", and leave it there.
>
>Maybe the reason you run out of fuel half way when on "pri" is because the

>tube is smaller than usual, so that  the free flow to the carb isn't too
>heavy.  (that's just a guess ; )   But I don't know why you would be getting

>air bubbles in the gas line while on "on".
>
>
>
>
- ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:37:07 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) gas flow on a 94 441

Hi Steve, first your petcock is set up with a diaphragm that is pulled away
from a seat to allow fuel to flow through to the outlet and down to the
carb. When you shut off the motor you shut down the vacuum and the diaphragm
moves over the seat and shuts off the fuel.  The carb has enough fuel
normally to start the engine and activate the diaphragm and resume the fuel
flow. This works the same way on reserve mode. Prime is for when you run out
of fuel for whatever reason to fill the carb float bowl. there is no pump
involved in any of these petcock positions it is all gravity. You have a
partial blockage some where I would suggest looking at the needle and seat
assy. in the carb and check the o'ring on the seat part it gets deteriorated
and can allow fuel to bypass the valve or come apart and plug things up also
check the petcock for inside debris by removing it from the fuel tank. Try
these things and let me know how you make out......Jesse PS I used to work
for hp at the Santa Clara plant
- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of Eric Jasniewicz
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:09 PM
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) wheelie gearing


don't forget you are changing the wheelbase, and the center of gravity (or
something like that, it changes the "balance point" when wheelying)  when
you change sprocket sizes using the same chain length.  My KLR wheelies much
easier with a 16t front sprocket then with a 14 or 15 front.  Even in second
gear. Who wudda thunk?

Eric "no problem" J
www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page
'98 KLR 650 25,000 miles


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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 09:12:05 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441

Hi Steve, Carb kit, yes I can dial it for the 441 the advantages are an
accelerator pump for instant response, and you have control of the slide vs
vacuum as on the cv carb. You can adjust it in the mid range (needle  has 5
slots) It can be bored out to 35 mm which works especially well on big bore
engines this works extremely well with the Vortex as it gives much better
flow to feed the larger displacement engine.  All engines are the same in
respect to the piston running up and down in a cylinder it is how you feed
the engine that makes a difference. The clutch arm should work just fine on
your 94 DRS it gives you more leverage for an easier pull. That picture on
my website shows where it sets at rest prior to actuating the clutch. Try
some of these things an see if it corrects your fuel delivery
problem.....Jesse

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of [e-mail]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:35 AM
To: Isaac Vanier
Cc: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441


Isaac,

Thanks a lot for your information, I'll give the straight "on" a
try...hopefully
it will take care of the flooding.   My guess is that my fuel pump isn't
sealing
and is causing air to bleed into  the fuel line... creating a version of
vacuum
lock.

Another question for you... I see that there is an air vent on the right
hand
side of the fuel tank.. up on the inside.  I know that on the Calf. bikes,
that
goes to an anti pollution device.  On non-Calif bikes, is it suppose to go
anywhere
or should it just equalize the pressure in the tank?

Thanks again for your help,

Steve

>I have the manual, and have read about the petcock.  You are supposed to
>ALWAYS leave it on "on", even when you shut the bike off, or store it for
>long periods.  Sinse it's auto, it will shut off by itself.  "pri" is used

>when you go to COLD start the bike.  What it does, is it will allow gas to

>poor into the carb directly, wich is needed when the bike has been off for
a
>while.  It helps it start quicker.  And of course, you know when to use
>reserver : )    So if you are leaving your bike in pri all the time, that
>would probably explain why it is always flooded.  Once the bike starts, you

>switch to "on", and leave it there.
>
>Maybe the reason you run out of fuel half way when on "pri" is because the

>tube is smaller than usual, so that  the free flow to the carb isn't too
>heavy.  (that's just a guess ; )   But I don't know why you would be
getting

>air bubbles in the gas line while on "on".
>
>
>
>
- ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net

- -
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 09:27:48 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change

Hi Wayne, Sorry I don't have the torque curve for the CA street model I
would like to have that gear calc thing though whenever you have time.  I
think you have a better idea by just changing the counter's it would be much
easier and you can find what you like with out so much complexity.

regards Jesse

- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Marsula' [mailto:[e-mail]]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 8:28 AM
To: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com
Cc: Eric Myers; 'dr350'
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change


"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be
> fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have
a

Eric and Jesse,
    My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a
noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I
also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it
this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain,
only readjust it. I think it will also be able to be adjusted properly
with the 13. I ran up gear charts for each using GearCalc. If you don't
have it, I could zip it and email to you. I also got a horsepower curve
for a dirt model engine, and extrapolated the torque curve, so I could
determine the best shift points. Jesse, would you happen to have a copy
of hp or torque curves for the CA street model?
    My riding weight is about 250, and although the extra punch is nice, I
don't feel the lower gears are necessary for normal street and back road
riding. For single tracks I'd change it to one of the lower ones. It is
a bit buzzy with the 14 at 60 mph and above. This would also, of course,
impact your mileage as well.
- --
    Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
    "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
        "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
    BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
    Suzuki DR350SE
    Honda SOHC4 #539
    Yamaha YSR50
    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
             Member:
    BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
    Internet BMW Riders
    Airheads Beemer Club #165
            Baja Airmarshal (?)
    Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
    National Rifle Association
    http://www.mikthebik.com/
    (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)


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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #41
***********************

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