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2000-05-31
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383KB
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) 350 clutch cable
Date: 01 May 2000 12:32:15 +0300
Hi
Is there a clutch cable for the dr350, that would last longer than a year
my cable just snapped, for a while after i put heavy duty clutch springs
to my bike.
Thanks in advance
This next thing i'm gonna say just once, i got some bad post,
which i deserved
due my own stupidity and wrong choice of words. Let this to be clear,
i'm not a hard drinker
i'm a very normal guy by the standards anywhere in the world
Thanks, case closed.
Mikko
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: (dr) rear links
Date: 01 May 2000 10:39:29 EDT
Several police departments here in Southern New Jersey (USA) have purchased
the DR 350 as patrol bikes, but run them totally stock. My bike is not stock,
but still has the stock (metal) tank and stickers/numbers plates. It is
starting to be referred to as a "cop" bike.
Scott
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Comobu@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Questions....
Date: 01 May 2000 12:36:12 EDT
I'm going to bomb the list today... anyone feel free to answer any one:
It's a DR350S
1. Removing the charcoal cannister... I'm fairly sure the cannister is
purged at "high speed" so the manual says... is it OK to plug the carb pipe
or not???
2. Does anyone know what the adjuster (clicker) on the top of 87RM250 forks
are for... rebound or comp.???
3.I had the bulletin at one time and actually did the mod to my dirt DR350..
it was a choke circuit mod bulletin put out by Suzuki for the very early
models.. anyone have that??? or am I confused and was it about drilling the
pilot jet??
Thanks..
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
Subject: (dr) DRz skid plates?
Date: 01 May 2000 13:32:49 -0400
Does anyone know who makes a good skid plate for the DRZ?
Thanks,
Mike
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com
Subject: Re: (dr) DRz skid plates?
Date: 01 May 2000 14:23:43 -0400
On Mon, 1 May 2000 13:32:49 -0400 Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
writes:
>
> Does anyone know who makes a good skid plate for the DRZ?
> Thanks,
> Mike
Hey Mike,
Contact Drew Smith's Works Enduro Rider. They have a new DR-Z skid plate
with integral case guards. Drew helped Suzuki develop the DR-Z (and the
old PEs, Honda XRs, and the '90 Suzuki DR 350s) so he should know what's
best.
Work Enduro Rider
1 Jenny Jump Avenue
Great Meadows, NJ 07838
908-637-6840
Be sure and tell them I sent you!
Al Roof
Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure
Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Tom Myers <TomMyers@cycoactive.com>
Subject: (dr) GPS accuracy increases
Date: 01 May 2000 11:47:32 -0700
Hello GPS afficianados,
In case you haven't heard, TONITE the US government is turning off
the "SA" selactive availability error. Typically this error was
induced into the soignal to prevent terrorists (or whatever) from
using our satellites. With this goverment-induced error, GPS
accuracy has been about 200-300 feet.
Tonite, the government will remove the error. Our Garmin rep
estimates (and this is a guess) that accuracy of handheld Garmin GPS
units will be about 20-30 feet.
We will put more informatiopn on http://www.cycoactive.com/gps as
soon as we get it
Enjoy!
Tom
Remarks of Dr. D. James Baker
Under Secretary of Commerce for Oceans and Atmosphere
Administrator, National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration
On the Decision to Discontinue GPS Selective Availability
May 1, 2000
Dr. Lane, on behalf of the Commerce Department, the
Interagency GPS Executive Board, and the millions of GPS
users around the world, I commend the President for taking
this important step today -- a full six years ahead of schedule.
Thanks in no small part to the President's policy, the U.S.
Global Positioning System continues to be THE global
standard for satellite-based navigation, positioning, and
timing. The U.S. policy of free access to both the signal and
the receiver design specifications has enabled users worldwide
to embrace GPS and develop hundreds of applications and
devices that no one dreamed of a few years ago.
For example, farmers are using GPS to map fields and tailor
applications of seed and chemicals, minimizing costs and
contaminant run-off. Oil companies in Britain, Finland, and
elsewhere are using GPS to identify drilling sites in the middle
of the sea. And just a few months ago, a Japanese company
unveiled a Dick Tracy-style wristwatch with a fully functional
GPS receiver built in.
Overall, the global market for GPS goods and services is
booming, with sales to exceed $8 billion this year and $16
billion by 2003. Today's action will accelerate this growth by
eliminating a significant impediment to the adoption and use
of GPS.
Within my agency alone, there will be significant benefits,
including improved fisheries border enforcement; more
effective search and rescue and hazardous spill response
operations; streamlined weather satellite data processing; and
better electronic navigational charting for ships.
At other government agencies, the higher accuracy will
improve responses to emergency calls from cell phones
equipped with GPS for "E911" capability. Natural resource
management agencies and emergency relief organizations will
be able to map and manage floodplains, levees, wetlands,
forests -- even individual trees -- using basic GPS without
costly, labor-intensive GPS augmentations. The same is true
for the management of highways and waterways by state and
federal authorities. NASA will have more precise control over
satellite orbits, improving scientific results. And International
Space Station operations will be simplified, enhancing
astronaut safety.
Outside the government, businesses and individuals will enjoy
an even greater range of benefits. More telecommunications
firms will use highly precise GPS time - now even MORE
precise - for synchronizing phone and data networks.
Taxicabs, buses, commercial trucks, and railroads will
improve as individual vehicles are tracked and routed more
efficiently. Recreational hikers, boaters, and pilots will see an
immediate improvement in the accuracy of basic GPS
receivers, resulting in better situational awareness and
increased safety. All of these benefits will come without any
receiver upgrades or fees whatsoever.
And now the really good news: today's action is only the tip of
the iceberg for civilian GPS improvements. It's the first step in
a long term GPS enhancement program that will add more civil
capabilities to GPS every few years: a second civilian signal by
2003; a third civilian signal by 2005; nationwide and regional
augmentation systems for safer land, air, and sea travel; and
next-generation capabilities being dreamed up as we speak as
part of the "GPS III" program.
At this time, we will be happy to take questions from the
audience.
INTERAGENCY GPS
EXECUTIVE BOARD
IGEB Executive Secretariat
4805 Herbert C. Hoover Building
Washington, D.C. 20230
Phone: (202) 482-5809
Fax: (202) 501-4178
ExecSec@igeb.gov
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com
| e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com
+------------------------------------+
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) Greetings again
Date: 02 May 2000 10:48:39 +0100
Mikko,
That's a lot of meat to run into! Did it wreck the bike? What do
reindeerburgers taste like?
I had a problem with clutch cables snapping at the engine end. It was due
to the slot in the lever being slightly 'V' shaped and cutting into the
cable inner. File it out flat and stick a dollup of grease round it.
Cheers
Andy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) Greetings from Sunny Hampshire, UK !
Date: 02 May 2000 10:45:28 +0100
Iain/Bill
I got the front mudguard I use from a breakers yard. I think it's from an
XT660, but I'm not sure. It's held to the fork sliders by 2 car exhaust
clamps, makes a BIG difference in stability in the wind and keeps all the
shite off you when it's wet. Try riding deep mud and it clogs up very
quickly. It just depends what you use your bike for, I guess. It suits me.
The screen is called a Deflector from M&P http://www.mandp.co.uk/default.htm
Into headwinds, rain and cold days it is well worthwhile. I take it off in
the summer, but it's on the bars from Nov - April. Might not look too cool
but it works! Also fits quite neatly behind the lip of the headlight
assembly. I wear a street full-face rather than motox, mainly coz it's
warmer and keeps more flies out of my face. I also use a 2-way radio riding
with my mates, and it gives more sound protection to the mike.
Andy
> Andy,
>
> I'd love to hear more about the low front mudguard and windscreen. I
> typically stay below 65 because of the wind. Do you use a street helmet
> too. I'm using an MX style and I wonder if a full face street type
> wouldn't
> be better.
>
> Bill Mitchell
> Raleigh, NC
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Colin Parkes" <bigcolinp@btinternet.com>
Subject: (dr) Too much oil -- doh !!!!!!!!
Date: 02 May 2000 13:39:34 +0100
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFB43B.DA31A520
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Folks,,,
my '92 DR350 has been leaking oil, so, the other day, in a rush to get =
in to work, I poured some in without measuring it...
Got down the road a few miles before a huge cloud of smoke erupted from =
the tailpipe....
I drained some oil when I got into work, but since then the bike is well =
down on power.
(I know this because I can't wheelie it anymore !!!!).
What is the likely cause of this ????
Do I need to clean my carb/jets ???
The bike doesn't appear to be smoking anymore....
Please take mercy on a very in-experienced home mechanic !!!!!!
cheers,
Col
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFB43B.DA31A520
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi Folks,,,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>my '92 DR350 has been leaking oil, so, the other =
day, in a=20
rush to get in to work, I poured some in without measuring =
it...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Got down the road a few miles before a huge cloud of =
smoke=20
erupted from the tailpipe....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I drained some oil when I got into work, but since =
then the=20
bike is well down on power.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>(I know this because I can't wheelie it anymore=20
!!!!).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What is the likely cause of this ????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do I need to clean my carb/jets ???</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The bike doesn't appear to be smoking =
anymore....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Please take mercy on a very in-experienced home =
mechanic=20
!!!!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>cheers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Col</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFB43B.DA31A520--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Don Forgays <Don@varc.edu>
Subject: (dr) Blackened DR 350
Date: 02 May 2000 13:17:20 -0400
A few months ago, (possibly from this list), I saw pictures of a DR350 all
done up in black. I think that it looked great! My question is: does anyone
on the list know of someone who might carry the black plastic replacement
pieces available in the US, for mail order shipping? I have a friend with a
paint shop, so I can get the frame and tank done there. What I am looking
for are the front fender, front fairing-(around headlight), both side
fairings, and the rear fender, (preferably one with a straighter cut). I am
capable of minor modifications if need be, but would prefer something close
to factory fit. Any ideas?
Don F.
95 DR 350SE
Burlington, VT.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Coleman, Patrick" <PDCOLEMA@southernco.com>
Subject: (dr) (dr350) Super Motard?
Date: 02 May 2000 14:32:47 -0500
I'm planning a dual sporting trip in central Colorado this summer.
While there, we plan to do some street riding as well. I can either take my
HawkGT in addition to the DR, forcing us to pull a trailer 2600 miles, or
get a spare set of wheels and try the Motard thing with my DR350S. Has
anyone done this, and have any advice one way or the other?
Thanks for the help
Patrick
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Gary Douglas" <GDouglas@peoplepc.com>
Subject: (dr) Re: Super Motard?
Date: 01 May 2000 20:26:29 -0400
<<<...try the Motard thing >>>
Is that legal? Does it give you a hangover? Forgive my ignorance, but
what's the "Motard thing"?
Gary in VT
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jkraft1151@cs.com
Subject: (dr) (no subject)
Date: 02 May 2000 20:31:52 EDT
I have a question, Sunday while I was riding as I held in the clutch the idle
was way too high, there was nothing between the idle adjuster and the stop
(like dirt ect..) I cranked on the throttle a few times and it went back to
normal it happened last year too I put on a new throttle cable before Sunday
I think it's something with my carb but don't know where to start. Any clues
??
Jason
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Coleman, Patrick" <PDCOLEMA@southernco.com>
Subject: (dr) RE: Super Motard?
Date: 02 May 2000 20:10:16 -0500
Super Motard is something that grew out of a made for TV racing series from
the 70's. The course consisted of dirt, pavement, and jumps. The series put
some of the best riders from all aspects of racing on similar bikes,
basically big dirt bikes with wide street tires, bigger brakes. It died out
in America, but caught on in Europe, and is making a comeback here.
This web site gives a short description of a typical Super Motard bike
http://www.ftmbiz.com/excelw/motard.html
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Douglas [SMTP:GDouglas@peoplepc.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 7:26 PM
> To: Coleman, Patrick; dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: Re: Super Motard?
>
> <<<...try the Motard thing >>>
>
> Is that legal? Does it give you a hangover? Forgive my ignorance, but
> what's the "Motard thing"?
> Gary in VT
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (no subject)
Date: 02 May 2000 18:24:14 -0700
Hi Jason, Is your DR a Dirt model or Dual purpose model? the Dirt model
carbs will over time wear the slide causing this hi Idle syndrome the slide
can be replaced very easily a new slide is about 26.00 and this generally
cures this problem. I have them if you need one.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jkraft1151@cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 5:32 PM
I have a question, Sunday while I was riding as I held in the clutch the
idle
was way too high, there was nothing between the idle adjuster and the stop
(like dirt ect..) I cranked on the throttle a few times and it went back to
normal it happened last year too I put on a new throttle cable before Sunday
I think it's something with my carb but don't know where to start. Any clues
??
Jason
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "SWAMPY!" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: (dr) The Creek
Date: 03 May 2000 10:50:07 -0400
Scott,
Here's some more teasing about this year's 4th Annual Devil's Creek Dual
Sport Weekend, July 29/30 in Brooksville, Florida.
Entry forms will be in the upcoming newsletter going out early next week!
Saturday will be an Adventure Tour suitable for two up, beginners, people
with big dual sport bikes (KLR, BMW, Triumph, etc)and those that just want
to ride and explore on some very scenic paved and dirt roads in the area.
The Saturday ride includes a scavenger hunt game where you can participate
and win prizes like a gear bag, camelbak hydration system and much more!
Also Included in the entry for Saturday is a BBQ dinner, along with a ride
and admission to the Dade City Raceway to watch the MX races Saturday night.
Sunday will be the tougher dirt oriented ride, depending on the weather
could be wet, could be dry. According to the map, we're looking at 120+
miles (actual miles may vary, once again, depending on the weather). Don't
judge this 120 miles by the 150 easy miles of daytona. It's Not even close!
(especially if it gets wet!) There will be a shorter main route with a
longer (15-20 mile) optional section for the experienced riders. Plan on a
60-70 mile fuel range. The sunday ride will be doable but a hand full on a
KLR650, and not recommended for bikes bigger than the KLR650. Bring your
aggressive street legal knobbies, this is shaping up to be the best Creek
yet!
I encourage ya'll to do both days. It's not so much the riding, but the
people. The new friends you'll meet, the things you'll learn about bikes and
techniques, and just having a good 'ole time with a bunch of new
motorcyclin' buddies! If you do both days you can have the entire dual sport
spectrum, from easy road riding to challenging trail riding, and everything
in between. If you treat this as a motorcycling happening more than just a
ride, you'll get the full flavor of what we're trying to do. It's the bikes.
It's the riding. But most of all, its the people.
All entrants will recieve: an event t-shirt
saturday entry includes:
Scavenger Hunt & prizes
BBQ Dinner
Admission to MX Races
Sunday entry Includes:
Continental Breakfast
Lunch
Once again, look for more details and an entry flyer in the upcoming
newsletter, due out next week. Those of you on the list who have not yet
subscribed to The Southern Dual Sporting Newsletter and have not joined the
WDSRC, you can do so by going to our website at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
Looking forward to seeing ya'll there!
Swampy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike A Hyers <hyer0573@students.sou.edu>
Subject: (dr) handlebars
Date: 03 May 2000 08:08:41 -0700
Hey list,
Does anyone have any advice as to a handlebar that is similar in height,
width, and bend to that of the original bar on a DR 350S? I've been
looking at Renthals but I'm not sure of the current height and bend of
my current bar. I've opted to get new bars now that I have Acerbis
rally pro handguards and dont feel like tapping the steel inserts in the
factory bars. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance, Mike in Ashland Oregon
1993 DR 350S
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) handlebars
Date: 03 May 2000 08:31:48 -0700
Hi Mike, I just started to handle Applied Racing Products which includes
various bars including the Answer Protapers, Magura Bulge bar,Renthol fat
bar, and also Tag T2 standard size but 5mm wall thickness bars in various
sizes and bends. You have my number.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mike A Hyers
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:09 AM
Hey list,
Does anyone have any advice as to a handlebar that is similar in height,
width, and bend to that of the original bar on a DR 350S? I've been
looking at Renthals but I'm not sure of the current height and bend of
my current bar. I've opted to get new bars now that I have Acerbis
rally pro handguards and dont feel like tapping the steel inserts in the
factory bars. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance, Mike in Ashland Oregon
1993 DR 350S
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ric Aruffo" <ric.aruffo@studiointeractive.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) handlebars
Date: 03 May 2000 11:28:44 -0500
Jesse,
Can you suggest one that I could purchase to replace the stock setup? I like
the bar setup, but want to loose the weight and mine are tweeked a little.
Also, did you ever get your parts list compiled?
Ric
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 10:32 AM
Hi Mike, I just started to handle Applied Racing Products which includes
various bars including the Answer Protapers, Magura Bulge bar,Renthol fat
bar, and also Tag T2 standard size but 5mm wall thickness bars in various
sizes and bends. You have my number.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mike A Hyers
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:09 AM
Hey list,
Does anyone have any advice as to a handlebar that is similar in height,
width, and bend to that of the original bar on a DR 350S? I've been
looking at Renthals but I'm not sure of the current height and bend of
my current bar. I've opted to get new bars now that I have Acerbis
rally pro handguards and dont feel like tapping the steel inserts in the
factory bars. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance, Mike in Ashland Oregon
1993 DR 350S
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: WHinman22@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Shock spring 1997 DR650
Date: 03 May 2000 14:03:54 EDT
Has anybody found a shock spring for the late model DR650?
Wayne Hinman
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) FW: 93 DR 350S
Date: 03 May 2000 12:27:45 -0600
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 12:19 PM
i'm having problems posting the following can you help?
My bike will not rev above 7000 rpm, it happened all of a sudden.
The local garage and I have checked and changed the main jet several times
with no change to the problem
The local garage thinks its an electrical problem.
Has anyone had a similar problem, if so how did you fix it
please please help I'm getting overtaken by mopeds................
Andrew
Epsom, UK
93 DR350S.
98 Fireblade
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BFB4FA.FC3DDE80
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Andrew Spooner=20
[mailto:AJ_Spooner@Hotmail.com]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 03, 2000 =
12:19=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> owner-dr@lists.xmission.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> 93 DR=20
350S<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>i'm having problems posting the =
following can you=20
help?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My bike will not rev above 7000 rpm, it =
happened=20
all of a sudden.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The local garage and I have =
checked and=20
changed the main jet several times with no change to the =
problem</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>T</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>he =
local garage=20
thinks its an electrical problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anyone had a similar problem, if so =
how did you=20
fix it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>please please help I'm getting =
overtaken by=20
mopeds................</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Andrew</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Epsom, UK</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>93 DR350S. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>98 Fireblade</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Corsaro <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Too much oil -- doh !!!!!!!!
Date: 03 May 2000 11:34:46 -0700
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--MS_Mac_OE_3040198486_340400_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
The air filter is probably over saturated with oil, because the crank case
breather blew oil in the air box.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
Reply-To: "Colin Parkes" <bigcolinp@btinternet.com>
Hi Folks,,,
my '92 DR350 has been leaking oil, so, the other day, in a rush to get in to
work, I poured some in without measuring it...
Got down the road a few miles before a huge cloud of smoke erupted from the
tailpipe....
I drained some oil when I got into work, but since then the bike is well
down on power.
(I know this because I can't wheelie it anymore !!!!).
What is the likely cause of this ????
Do I need to clean my carb/jets ???
The bike doesn't appear to be smoking anymore....
Please take mercy on a very in-experienced home mechanic !!!!!!
cheers,
Col
--MS_Mac_OE_3040198486_340400_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: (dr) Too much oil -- doh !!!!!!!!</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<BR>
The air filter is probably over saturated with oil, because the crank case =
breather blew oil in the air box.<BR>
<BR>
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<B>From: </B>"Colin Parkes" <bigcolinp@btinternet.com><BR>
<B>Reply-To: </B>"Colin Parkes" <bigcolinp@btinternet.com><=
BR>
<B>Date: </B>Tue, 2 May 2000 13:39:34 +0100<BR>
<B>To: </B><dr@lists.xmission.com><BR>
<B>Subject: </B>(dr) Too much oil -- doh !!!!!!!!<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Hi Folks,,,<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">my '92 DR350 has been leaking oil, so, the other day, in a r=
ush to get in to work, I poured some in without measuring it...<BR>
Got down the road a few miles before a huge cloud of smoke erupted from the=
tailpipe....<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">I drained some oil when I got into work, but since then the =
bike is well down on power.<BR>
(I know this because I can't wheelie it anymore !!!!).<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">What is the likely cause of this ????<BR>
Do I need to clean my carb/jets ???<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">The bike doesn't appear to be smoking anymore....<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">Please take mercy on a very in-experienced home mechanic !!!=
!!!<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">cheers,<BR>
</FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">Col<BR>
</FONT><BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>
--MS_Mac_OE_3040198486_340400_MIME_Part--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Shock spring 1997 DR650
Date: 03 May 2000 12:33:02 -0600
> Has anybody found a shock spring for the late model DR650?
>
> Wayne Hinman
yes, Mike Walburn at Dualstar has one from Progressive...
Kurt Simpson
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) DR650 support/accessories...
Date: 03 May 2000 14:38:40 -0600
As I've mentioned a couple of times, Mike Walburn and Dualstar
http://www.dual-star.com/ are enthusiastic about the DR650 and have been
gearing up with product support for it. I talked with Mike today and he had
some Dual Star part numbers for us:
1. DR650 rear springs: Dual Star Part Nos. 20-98211 $79.95. These are 6.2 -
6.9 kg (350-390 lbs) progressive springs; stockers are 6.5 kg (360 lb
straight rate).
2. Fork springs, Dual Star Part Nos. 20-98202. $89.95 per pair. These are
the Larry Roessler Signature Series springs.
3. The Dual Star centerstand for the DR650 lives! Mike said he is sending me
a production version for testing. I'll have a complete report in the
June/July issue of Dual Sport News www.dualsport.org . KLR owners have come
to love the Dual Star centerstand and I'm certain the DR650 product will be
of the same fine quality and engineering. Mike has designed the centerstand
so a user can fabricate a rear support from the stand to a bash plate. A
Dual Star bash plate is in the works.
Give Mike a call if you have further questions.
Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News
email: ajax@xmission.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <pazuela@telnor.net>
Subject: (dr) Skid Plate
Date: 03 May 2000 15:50:45 -0700
Hi guys,
Has anyone installed a Maier Enduro skid plate on a 350 drse model, and if
so how do you like it??
Jesse, do you stock this skid plate?? and how about the MX rear fender, i
want to get on of those, and if you do, can you ship them to Mexico??
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jkraft1151@cs.com
Subject: (dr) DR350se
Date: 03 May 2000 21:30:00 EDT
Has any one tried to eliminate their ignition key switch on the electric
start dr350. I did but their is a drain on my battery I think it is something
I did but can't pinpoint it. I used the ignition kill switch for my on/off
switch by cutting off the key switch wires and soldering them to the kill
switch. The black wires are on the kill side and on one side of the start
side the orange and red wires are together and the brown and (I think it was
a yellow wire) are on the other side. But I don't think the brown and yellow
wires should be together until the switch is turned on. With them touching I
think I am getting a slow but constant drain on the battery does this sound
right?
Jason
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "mmaiii" <mikeaustin@home.com>
Subject: (dr) White Bros or FMF
Date: 03 May 2000 21:02:07 -0600
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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IÆm considering a new exhaust. Any opinions on the White Brothers E-series?
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: (dr) Plastic gas tanks for DRZ's
Date: 04 May 2000 06:55:43 -0000
IMS is making plastic tanks for the DRZ's.
They have a yellow and natural 3.2 gal. for the offroad model.
They will have very soon a 4.0 gallon (I'm not sure about the colors) that
will fit the S (street legal) model. This tank will do away with the plastic
shouds as the front of the new plastic tank extends forward and acts as your
shrouds.
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Skid Plate
Date: 04 May 2000 06:07:10 -0700
Hi Pedro, welcome to the DR list, sure I can I have already shipped one to
England you are just next door. I will check on the skid plate for you.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Pedro Azuela Inowe
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 3:51 PM
Hi guys,
Has anyone installed a Maier Enduro skid plate on a 350 drse model, and if
so how do you like it??
Jesse, do you stock this skid plate?? and how about the MX rear fender, i
want to get on of those, and if you do, can you ship them to Mexico??
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) handlebars
Date: 04 May 2000 06:58:16 -0700
HI Ric, yes I have several choices, one is the large middle clamp area type
from several major manufactures, like the protaper but they require the new
upper triple clamp which is more expense. These provide more stability to
the front end and they hardly ever bend for the plus side. With the regular
size I have the Tag 5 bar that is aluminum but is 5mm thick wall so it is
advertised as 20% stronger than standard aluminum bars. these retail for
$83.00 verses $141.00 for the triple clamp then another $89.00 to $119.00
for the bars, if you would choose to go with the fat bar option. I am still
working on my DR350 goodies parts menu will have it available soon.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Ric Aruffo
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 9:29 AM
Jesse,
Can you suggest one that I could purchase to replace the stock setup? I like
the bar setup, but want to loose the weight and mine are tweeked a little.
Also, did you ever get your parts list compiled?
Ric
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 10:32 AM
Hi Mike, I just started to handle Applied Racing Products which includes
various bars including the Answer Protapers, Magura Bulge bar,Renthol fat
bar, and also Tag T2 standard size but 5mm wall thickness bars in various
sizes and bends. You have my number.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mike A Hyers
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 8:09 AM
Hey list,
Does anyone have any advice as to a handlebar that is similar in height,
width, and bend to that of the original bar on a DR 350S? I've been
looking at Renthals but I'm not sure of the current height and bend of
my current bar. I've opted to get new bars now that I have Acerbis
rally pro handguards and dont feel like tapping the steel inserts in the
factory bars. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance, Mike in Ashland Oregon
1993 DR 350S
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: AYUMOTO@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) handlebars
Date: 04 May 2000 10:15:25 EDT
A good bar choice for the DR350 is the Renthal High Desert . This is a
higher bar (and stronger) that makes standing on the pegs much easier. It is
also slightly wider than the stock bars for more leverage and control. It is
the standard bar diameter so you don't have to buy an adapter.
John F
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <pazuela@telnor.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Skid Plate
Date: 04 May 2000 14:48:04 -0700
hey Jesse, im not new to the list, i have only posted a few times only, i'll
be in touch to order some stuff from you, thanks..
Has anyone tried to get rid off the instrument panel on a SE model, i think
Mikko was doing that?? Mikko, if this is true, how did you do it??
Pedro.
97 350drse
(Baja, Mexico)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 6:07 AM
Hi Pedro, welcome to the DR list, sure I can I have already shipped one to
England you are just next door. I will check on the skid plate for you.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Pedro Azuela Inowe
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 3:51 PM
Hi guys,
Has anyone installed a Maier Enduro skid plate on a 350 drse model, and if
so how do you like it??
Jesse, do you stock this skid plate?? and how about the MX rear fender, i
want to get on of those, and if you do, can you ship them to Mexico??
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: HifiHerb@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: (dr) Shock spring 1997 DR650
Date: 04 May 2000 22:44:22 EDT
--part1_99.460f063.26438f86_boundary
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X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 77
Regarding shock springs for late model DR650SE. I needed heavier springs for
mine so my son could ride with me. I found them through White Bros. I got a
heavier rear (Eibach) spring and heavier front progressive rate (Progressive
Suspension) springs from them. The rear has a 7.1 kg/mm rate and I think the
White Bros part # is 32-574. The front springs were 25-35# progressive rate
and I think the White Bros part # is PS1510. If you need more info or phone
#'s just let me know.
--part1_99.460f063.26438f86_boundary--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) Oil Changes
Date: 05 May 2000 11:09:58 +0100
Hi all,
My question for today is regarding oil filter changing. I change my DR350
oil about every 800-1000 miles when I notice the gear change getting notchy.
UK riding is pretty demanding on oil with often low speeds and heavy loads
from the mud.
If I use exactly the same oil (fully synthetic) is there any harm in only
changing the filter every other oil change?
Opinions please!
Thanks
Steve
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Oil Changes
Date: 05 May 2000 06:01:35 -0000
> If I use exactly the same oil (fully synthetic) is there any harm in only
> changing the filter every other oil change?
>
> Opinions please!
That's exactly what I do----and have been doing for many years. I do
look the filter over for and suspicious debris------just in case.
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Oil Changes
Date: 05 May 2000 10:28:46 -0700
I sometimes skip changing the oil filter too. My 94 DRSE has 12k miles on
it.
I use synthetic blend oil and change it about every 1k miles.
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 3:10 AM
Hi all,
My question for today is regarding oil filter changing. I change my DR350
oil about every 800-1000 miles when I notice the gear change getting notchy.
UK riding is pretty demanding on oil with often low speeds and heavy loads
from the mud.
If I use exactly the same oil (fully synthetic) is there any harm in only
changing the filter every other oil change?
Opinions please!
Thanks
Steve
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "C.B." <hh1768@praxis.net>
Subject: (dr) oil
Date: 05 May 2000 14:22:32 -0400
I have a 97 DR650SE,is it ok to use full synthetic oil?will the clutch slip?
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Ralston" <bralsto@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Oil Changes
Date: 05 May 2000 11:43:32 -0700
Steve,
I change my filter after every ride in the dirt and every 1000-1500 miles if
ridden only on the street. I use Golden Spectro 20w-50 synthetic
exclusively and have never had an engine or component failure. In fact my
valve train looks new.
Regards,
Bob
Bob Ralston
93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, IMS 3.5 gal Desert Tank,
Fineline Front and Rear Suspension, Applied Racing Triple clamps (15mm
forward of stock), Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, Dunlop K139
(front) & K739 AT Desert (For Dirt Only), Solid peg mounts, UNI filter,
Scotts and other Thumper Racing products too numerous to mention.
----- Original Message -----
<dr@lists.xmission.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 10:28 AM
> I sometimes skip changing the oil filter too. My 94 DRSE has 12k miles on
> it.
>
> I use synthetic blend oil and change it about every 1k miles.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com] On
> Behalf Of Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 3:10 AM
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) Oil Changes
>
> Hi all,
>
> My question for today is regarding oil filter changing. I change my DR350
> oil about every 800-1000 miles when I notice the gear change getting
notchy.
> UK riding is pretty demanding on oil with often low speeds and heavy loads
> from the mud.
>
> If I use exactly the same oil (fully synthetic) is there any harm in only
> changing the filter every other oil change?
>
> Opinions please!
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin" <beauchemin@telus.net>
Subject: (dr) JX needle & spring setup
Date: 05 May 2000 12:37:59 -0700
I realize that this top is getting boring... I just got the JX needle &
spring from Thumper Racing for my '97 DR350SE which is otherwise completely
stock. The instructions included aren't correct, they are for use in
combination with the 435 kit! It says to install the needle clip in the
fifth position from the top. I phoned and the person I was speaking to
didn't seem 100% sure but seemed to think that for my case (stock muffler,
opened aribox, Unifilter) it should be at the 3rd position from the top - is
that correct?
Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) JX needle & spring setup
Date: 05 May 2000 12:56:58 -0700
HI Chris, I would suggest the 4th groove down with your airbox opened up.
Then check your plug color after a 5-10 mile ride at half throttle position,
the color of the porcelain electrode cover should be a chocolate brown,
white or light gray is too lean and black is rich. this will give you a good
indication of the correct setting of the needle as it controls the 1/4 to
5/8 throttle position.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 12:38 PM
I realize that this top is getting boring... I just got the JX needle &
spring from Thumper Racing for my '97 DR350SE which is otherwise completely
stock. The instructions included aren't correct, they are for use in
combination with the 435 kit! It says to install the needle clip in the
fifth position from the top. I phoned and the person I was speaking to
didn't seem 100% sure but seemed to think that for my case (stock muffler,
opened aribox, Unifilter) it should be at the 3rd position from the top - is
that correct?
Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: (dr) non dr - helmet communications
Date: 05 May 2000 13:47:37 -0700
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I have three Chatterbox, model HJC 90 radios for sale. These units mount on
the side left of helmet, have two ear pieces and voice activated microphone.
$100.00 each + 7.00 shipping to US addresses via insured priority mail. If
anyone is interested, please e-mail me off list.
Having the ability to talk to your riding buddies while blastin' down a
trail or fire road adds a whole new dimension to riding. Once you use them
for a while, you'll wonder how you ever rode without them. They are great
as a safety device for warning your riding group of cars coming down the
road, hikers, other riders coming towards you, etc. If someone crashes,
he/she can warn others in the group to come back and rescue him/her, etc.
If anyone is interested, please e-mail me off list.
Thanks,
Doug
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Scribbled@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Oil Changes
Date: 05 May 2000 20:54:09 EDT
The type of oil you are using is far more expensive than a oil filter. Why
not treat your new oil to a new filter?
In a message dated 00-05-05 07:06:19 EDT, didi@acworld.net writes:
<< Subj: Re: (dr) Oil Changes
Date: 00-05-05 07:06:19 EDT
From: didi@acworld.net (Mark Sampson)
Sender: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com
Reply-to: didi@acworld.net (Mark Sampson)
To: dr@lists.xmission.com (DR Mailing List)
> If I use exactly the same oil (fully synthetic) is there any harm in only
> changing the filter every other oil change?
>
> Opinions please!
That's exactly what I do----and have been doing for many years. I do
look the filter over for and suspicious debris------just in case.
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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To: "DR Mailing List" <dr@lists.xmission.com>
References:
<17BA7A412C4FD311A4B700508B0291AE0192A988@uk0006exch004u.uk.lucent.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Oil Changes
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Garth Skelton" <g_skelton@hotmail.com>
Date: 05 May 2000 20:26:20 PDT
Doug-
I do live in North Central Washington, right on Lake Wenatchee. I have been
working in Seattle but there on weekends. Would love to chat further on
rides in the area! I rode all up and down Chumstick Rd. last weekend and
found some great trails!
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Skid Plate
Date: 06 May 2000 16:00:38 +0300
Hi Pedro
I haven't taken it off yet, but Mauro from Switzerland has and he gave me
advices, he said that the ignition switch cylinder is removable from the
panel. he replaced the panel with a plastic box, which included original
switch cylinder,a LED light for the "neutral" and a bicycle computer for
odo/tachometer.I think he could give more you details.
Regards
Mikko
----- Original Message -----
<dr@lists.xmission.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 12:48 AM
> hey Jesse, im not new to the list, i have only posted a few times only,
i'll
> be in touch to order some stuff from you, thanks..
> Has anyone tried to get rid off the instrument panel on a SE model, i
think
> Mikko was doing that?? Mikko, if this is true, how did you do it??
> Pedro.
> 97 350drse
> (Baja, Mexico)
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From: "Mauro Regusci" <mauro4fun@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Skid Plate
Date: 06 May 2000 18:42:47 CEST
That's it Pedro,
as Mikko says, I get rid of the original panel and I replaced
it with the mentioned plastic box.
Now the new "panel" has many advantage:
- is cheap (~25$)
- is almost crash-proof
- it has a Sigma bicycle computer with a lot of functions
as trip/total-milage/clock/max-speed/...ecc. (model BC800)
- no more tacho cable needed, a small wire go down with the
brake line to the sensor near the disk, which hold the magnet
- could be customized
If you want to see how it looks like I'll send you some pics.
Best regards, Mauro
>From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
>Reply-To: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
>To: Pedro Azuela Inowe <pazuela@telnor.net>, DR List
><dr@lists.xmission.com>
>Subject: Re: (dr) Skid Plate
>Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 16:00:38 +0300
>
>Hi Pedro
>
>I haven't taken it off yet, but Mauro from Switzerland has and he gave me
>advices, he said that the ignition switch cylinder is removable from the
>panel. he replaced the panel with a plastic box, which included original
>switch cylinder,a LED light for the "neutral" and a bicycle computer for
>odo/tachometer.I think he could give more you details.
>Regards
>Mikko
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <pazuela@telnor.net>
>To: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com <jesse@rvi.net>; DR List
><dr@lists.xmission.com>
>Sent: Friday, May 05, 2000 12:48 AM
>Subject: Re: (dr) Skid Plate
>
>
> > hey Jesse, im not new to the list, i have only posted a few times only,
>i'll
> > be in touch to order some stuff from you, thanks..
> > Has anyone tried to get rid off the instrument panel on a SE model, i
>think
> > Mikko was doing that?? Mikko, if this is true, how did you do it??
> > Pedro.
> > 97 350drse
> > (Baja, Mexico)
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jkraft1151@cs.com
Subject: (dr) Re:(Instrument Panel)
Date: 07 May 2000 21:04:21 EDT
got rid of mine but not sure if it is wired right, still working out some
bugs I'll let you know if things turn out good
Jason
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: MREINA@webtv.net (Michael Reina)
Subject: (dr) 1993 DRS 350 gas tank
Date: 07 May 2000 21:38:32 -0400 (EDT)
For sale 93 DRS steel stock gas tank for sale. No dents or scratches in
paint (only light scuffs). Will included key for cap and plastic
shrouds. $50. US
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: HifiHerb@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Shock spring 1997 DR650
Date: 07 May 2000 22:47:56 EDT
Go to www.whitebros.com - you can get the phone #'s there. Sorry it took me
a couple of days to get back to you - I've been out of town. Get the part
#'s from my first note and give them a call. If there is any confusion get
back with me (I have the guy's name I talked with written down at my office -
he was recommended by Progressive Suspension as their most knowledgable
salesman). Please let me know if I can be of further help!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <pazuela@telnor.net>
Subject: (dr) Front Forks
Date: 07 May 2000 21:24:43 -0700
I just returned from an all day riding trip here in Baja, i think we covered
around 250 miles, to you guys that ride down here often, the baja 500 course
is already marked, we ran across with about 50 guys from the US riding in
the high sierra, it was great, well now for the question.. One thing came to
mind as i was hitting a pine root hidden in the trail, the front forks are
too soft!!
What can i do to make the perform better?? i already changed the oil but
they're still to soft.
What products are available for the 350 drse fron forks??
Pedro
97 350drse
Baja, Mexico
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: njkouba <njkouba@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Front Forks
Date: 07 May 2000 23:05:51 -0600
Pedro,
We really need to talk. I have visited Baja a number of times on various DR's,
and have found that .46KG straight wound springs with 20wt oil preloaded 3/16th
inch is as good as it gets unless your trying to jump vado's or want to spend a
lot of pesos. The cartridge emulators are an improvement but are just a band
aid, when major surgery is required on the 97 and earlier DR350SE model
Suzuki's. When you get the front fixed your going to hate the rear. Hope this
makes your day and hope someday you will show us some pine roots in Baja rather
than all those stickery things. Norm
--
Dr. DR
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.koubalink.com
Pedro Azuela Inowe wrote:
> I just returned from an all day riding trip here in Baja, i think we covered
> around 250 miles, to you guys that ride down here often, the baja 500 course
> is already marked, we ran across with about 50 guys from the US riding in
> the high sierra, it was great, well now for the question.. One thing came to
> mind as i was hitting a pine root hidden in the trail, the front forks are
> too soft!!
> What can i do to make the perform better?? i already changed the oil but
> they're still to soft.
> What products are available for the 350 drse fron forks??
>
> Pedro
> 97 350drse
> Baja, Mexico
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: (dr) The Roadless Initiative
Date: 08 May 2000 14:53:19 -0700
To all riders interested in the roadless initiative:
Please read the following that I received on a list that you may not be
on. I hope to see you all San Diego County riders there at the meeting.
If you are not in San Diego County, please read on, there is a link
below where you can find locations in your state (or county) where there
are meetings.
It could mean our being able or NOT being able to ride in many of the
offroad areas we all love. Please pass this along to anyone you know who
may be interested.
Thanks, Wayne Marsula'
====================================================================
The 25 page Executive Summary of Scoping Comments stated on page 11
that "Those (comments) addressing recreational access deal primarily
with the issue of restrictions on motorized access, particularly
off-road vehicle access."
It continues, "Probably the most contentious issue of the entire debate
over roadless area protection is the question of whether motorized
access will be or should be restricted."
Also stated, "Many are apprehensive that this may lead eventually to
the closure of all National Forest System lands to motorized
recreational use. This perception inspired a barrage of protests from
individuals and
recreational organizations."
Many of the pro-access writers expressed the positive aspects of the
OHV community (i.e. vol. trail projects, family participation, respect
for the environment, etc.) related to forest use.
The report also noted that..."(OHV) Management is the solution to this
issue, not expulsion!"
I would encourage you to go to the following website to download, at
least, the 25 page Executive Summary and then go to the other website
address and click/download you own state's roadless meeting schedules.
The roadless meetings will start in the next few weeks and run into
June.
ROADLESS COMMENT SUMMARY
http://roadless.fs.fed.us/documents/caet/index.shtml
ROADLESS MEETINGS SCHEDULE
http://roadless.fs.fed.us/meetings/index.shtml
=======================================================================
Thanks for your time in this all too important matter. I've included
the following so you don't have to look it up.
Wayne
=======================================================================
Cleveland National Forest Information
May 31 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
SupervisorÆs Office
10845 Rancho Bernardo Road #200
San Diego
Joan Wynn
(858) 674-2984
jwynn01@fs.fed.us
--
********************************************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
http://www.mikthebik.com/
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
MB-5 S-65 S-90 CT-90 SS-125 CA-95 CL-160 CB-200 TL-250 CB77 CL77 CA77
CB350-4 CB400F CB500-4 B-550F CB750F GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gudmundurp@simi.is
Subject: (dr) test
Date: 09 May 2000 12:22:56 +0000
haven┤t been able to send to the mailing list so this is a test
Gu≡m. PΘtursson
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) test
Date: 09 May 2000 06:36:35 -0700
HiGuam, you have made contact.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of gudmundurp@simi.is
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 5:23 AM
haven┤t been able to send to the mailing list so this is a test
Gu≡m. PΘtursson
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gudmundurp@simi.is
Subject: (dr) exhaust mods ( better air flow )
Date: 09 May 2000 12:57:40 +0000
ok fially im able to send mail to the list so i pop the question.
I write from iceland and i have a dr350 off road ┤99
Here we dont need spark arrestor.
as we all now the opening in the stock muffler is wery small.
has anyone cut the end off and removed the s/a and opened the end better
to, for example 1,5" or 2" for better air flow.
then of cource welded the endcap back on, and reejet the bike to 147,5 (
open airbox mods to )
this saves a 250 $ exhaust for some time at least.
please reespond .
Gummi
Iceland
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) exhaust mods ( better air flow )
Date: 09 May 2000 08:46:14 -0700
Hi Gummi, this has been done in the states and even leaving the spark
arrester intact with reasonably good results. Then cutting the top out of
the airbox also you can jet up to maybe a 137.5 or 140 but it will be too
rich if you go any more you can tell because it will breakup on open
throttle when it is too rich. Let me know how it turns out
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of gudmundurp@simi.is
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 5:58 AM
ok fially im able to send mail to the list so i pop the question.
I write from iceland and i have a dr350 off road ┤99
Here we dont need spark arrestor.
as we all now the opening in the stock muffler is wery small.
has anyone cut the end off and removed the s/a and opened the end better
to, for example 1,5" or 2" for better air flow.
then of cource welded the endcap back on, and reejet the bike to 147,5 (
open airbox mods to )
this saves a 250 $ exhaust for some time at least.
please reespond .
Gummi
Iceland
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gudmundurp@simi.is
Subject: RE: (dr) exhaust mods ( better air flow )
Date: 09 May 2000 21:40:00 +0000
Tanks, but i have a local dealers here.
i was just in my garage canging the orginal exhaust muffler and tomorrow i
will reejet the ting and try out 140 main and
the neadle in 4 grove
i┤ll let you now how it works
Gummi
Iceland
Hi Gummi, I would ask do you have a local source there for jets as I have
some in my stock that I could send you let me know.
"Jesse Kientz
www.kientech. To: <gudmundurp@simi.is>
com" cc:
<jesse@rvi.ne Subject: RE: (dr) exhaust mods ( better air flow )
t>
09.05.2000
16:33
HI Gummi I would suggest you get both , 137.5 and 140 . this should be
pretty close. You could also move the clip on the jet needle down to the
fourth groove. I would try this with the 140 and if it is too rich you can
go back to the 137.5.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 8:28 AM
hi Jesse
is this a jetting i can reelay on, or is it a suggegstion to a nearbuy
jetting, just so i now when i go buying jets.
thanks a million for the help
Gummi
Iceland
"Jesse Kientz
www.kientech. To: <gudmundurp@simi.is>,
<dr@lists.xmission.com>
com" cc:
<jesse@rvi.ne Subject: RE: (dr) exhaust mods
( better air flow )
t>
09.05.2000
15:46
Hi Gummi, this has been done in the states and even leaving the spark
arrester intact with reasonably good results. Then cutting the top out of
the airbox also you can jet up to maybe a 137.5 or 140 but it will be too
rich if you go any more you can tell because it will breakup on open
throttle when it is too rich. Let me know how it turns out
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of gudmundurp@simi.is
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 5:58 AM
ok fially im able to send mail to the list so i pop the question.
I write from iceland and i have a dr350 off road ┤99
Here we dont need spark arrestor.
as we all now the opening in the stock muffler is wery small.
has anyone cut the end off and removed the s/a and opened the end better
to, for example 1,5" or 2" for better air flow.
then of cource welded the endcap back on, and reejet the bike to 147,5 (
open airbox mods to )
this saves a 250 $ exhaust for some time at least.
please reespond .
Gummi
Iceland
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: (dr) DR350 Mufflers
Date: 10 May 2000 16:12:58 -0700
Hi all,
I have an opportunity to pick up, at a very good price, my choice of
two new mufflers; FMF MegaMax, or DG Krome Power RCM Muffler.
My questions are: How much louder than stock would each of them be; how
much improvement would they give; would rejetting be necessary?
Thanks, Wayne
--
********************************************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
http://www.mikthebik.com/
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
MB-5 S-65 S-90 CT-90 SS-125 CA-95 CL-160 CB-200 TL-250 CB77 CL77 CA77
CB350-4 CB400F CB500-4 B-550F CB750F GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 (for sale) Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: DAN STONESIFER <STONES@aaicorp.com>
Subject: (dr) seal installation
Date: 10 May 2000 19:36:18 -0400
Hi everyone, I have a '91 DR250S that has a clutch shaft seal that blows a fair amount of oil out when doing highway action. Ok, here it comes...
Has anyone had any experiences with this type of thing? (installation especially)
Any responses highly welcome. (I'm prepping this for my 1st enduro - Pine Hill NJ this Sun.)
Tank-Q - dan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "William C. Mitchell" <bill@maptriangle.com>
Subject: (dr) Rear fender
Date: 10 May 2000 22:53:27 -0400
I need a stock rear fender for my '98 DR350se. Must be like new.
Bill Mitchell
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: SMRGEO@aol.com
Subject: (dr) 97 DR350 OFF ROAD FOR SALE
Date: 11 May 2000 00:39:46 EDT
97' DR 350
225 MILES, EXCELLENT CONDITION. COBRA ALUMINUM SILENCER/SPARKE ARRESTOR,
HAND GUARDS, MOOSE ALUMINUM BARS, K&N AIR FILTER, SHOP MANUAL, NEVER RACED,
ADULT OWNED....PIC AVAILABLE. INDIANA.
$2500.00
SMRGEO@AOL.COM
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Mufflers
Date: 10 May 2000 22:13:57 -0700
Hi Wayne, as a rule any muffler that does not require rejetting is not worth
having this, is where the extra horsepower comes from. The fmf I am familiar
with and it makes good power and is tunable you can remove disc's to quiet
it down or add some to make horsepower and they do not make them anymore so
I would say get it while you can. The DG Krome Power I have not had any
experience with so cannot say what the drawbacks or benefits are. Hope this
helps you make a decision If you need help with jetting get back to me and I
will give you some options.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Wayne Marsula'
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 4:13 PM
Hi all,
I have an opportunity to pick up, at a very good price, my choice of
two new mufflers; FMF MegaMax, or DG Krome Power RCM Muffler.
My questions are: How much louder than stock would each of them be; how
much improvement would they give; would rejetting be necessary?
Thanks, Wayne
--
********************************************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
http://www.mikthebik.com/
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
MB-5 S-65 S-90 CT-90 SS-125 CA-95 CL-160 CB-200 TL-250 CB77 CL77 CA77
CB350-4 CB400F CB500-4 B-550F CB750F GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 (for sale) Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jim Smith <jskydive@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: (dr) DR650 lowered footpegs?
Date: 10 May 2000 22:56:18 -0700
I just bought a 2000 DR650 and wonder if anyone makes lowered footpegs for
it. I've got long legs and a little more distance between seat and pegs
would be more comfortable and make it easier to stand up when riding in the
dirt.
Does anyone know if they are available? My dealer said he has never heard of
them.
Thanks for your help.
Jim Smith
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650 lowered footpegs?
Date: 11 May 2000 06:19:51 -0600
> I just bought a 2000 DR650 and wonder if anyone makes lowered footpegs for
> it. I've got long legs and a little more distance between seat and pegs
> would be more comfortable and make it easier to stand up when riding in
the
> dirt.
>
> Does anyone know if they are available? My dealer said he has never heard
of
> them.
I haven't heard of them Jim, but if you call Tim Bernard at
www.happy-trail.com I bet you could talk him in to creating a solution as he
likes the DR650 and agrees it has a very tight cockpit. Tim acted as go
between on the purchase of my '96 and when I came to pick it up at his shop
he said that the former owner had cut and rewelded the pegs lower on the
mouting stem and that it had made a world of difference. I have no basis of
comparison but I can tell you mine is very comfortable....you can't tell it
has been done...
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Richard Fantini" <rich@noreast.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) seal installation
Date: 11 May 2000 10:11:54 -0400
Well I've never worked on a DR250, but if it's like most bikes, it's pretty
easy to change. Just pick up a new seal, mark the position of the control
arm and remove it. Using a small punch or screwdriver, carefully puncture a
hole in the metal area of the seal and pry it from the case. Be sure you
don't nick or score the case sealing surface while removing the old seal.
Remove any burrs or nicks from the edge of the case sealing surface, as this
will surely destroy your new seal during installation. Cover the end of the
clutch shaft with a small piece of thin plastic (a cut up ziplock sandwich
bag works well) so you don't punch a pretty star pattern in your new seal
:-) ... Install the seal on the shaft, remove the plastic, and using a deep
well socket (about the same size as a outer diameter of the seal) carefully
tap the seal in place. (if the case sealing surface is a little less than
perfect, you can apply a small amount of gasket sealant to the bottom edge
of the new seal) Make sure the seal is seated straight and the seal lip is
riding on a smooth area of the clutch shaft. Reinstall the clutch arm and
cable. That's it...
-Rich
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 7:36 PM
> Hi everyone, I have a '91 DR250S that has a clutch shaft seal that blows a
fair amount of oil out when doing highway action. Ok, here it comes...
> Has anyone had any experiences with this type of thing? (installation
especially)
> Any responses highly welcome. (I'm prepping this for my 1st enduro - Pine
Hill NJ this Sun.)
>
> Tank-Q - dan
>
>
> -
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>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: (dr) New to list
Date: 11 May 2000 12:38:41 EDT
Just saying hello as I am new to this list. I am getting back into trail
riding after a 15+ year hiatus and have recently bought a 94 DR350 and am
enjoying it very much here in Colorado. It appears to have the airbox
modified by opening the top and has the Supertrapp muffler. I have a White
Bros header pipe on order. Jetting seems okay from checking plug and love
its torque throughout the power band. Renthal bars and brushguards round out
the way I bought it and I am adding the Cyco active spare tube fenderbag and
crossbar mapcase.
Any suggestions or feedback on the DR or riding in Colorado would be
appreciated. Thanks,
Craig K
Colorado Springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "SWAMPY!" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: (dr) Another Roadless Poll
Date: 11 May 2000 14:34:35 -0400
>> > Here we go again. It seems the news media is again giving us a chance
>to
>> be
>> > heard.
>> >
>> > MSNBC has a poll going today regarding Clinton's Roadless Proposal.
>> Please
>> > VOTE that the proposal goes too far. Believe me..it does!
>> >
>> > Please go to this website to vote:
>> http://www.msnbc.com/news/377104.asp#BODY
>> > You'll have to scroll down to get to the vote box.
>> >
>> > Thank you
>> > Suzanne
>> > ICO Racing
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Brian Hannigan <webmaster@creia.com>
Subject: (dr) DR 350 Parts needed
Date: 11 May 2000 11:35:45 -0700
I'm looking for a kickstand and front sprocket cover plate for a '92 DR350s.
If you can help me out at a reasonable price please e-mail me at
brian@hanntech.com
Thanks,
Brian
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff A. Henshaw" <jhenshaw@dsl-only.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) New to list
Date: 11 May 2000 12:04:26 -0700
Yeah, just try to keep the bugs out of your teeth. I know it's hard after
a 15 year hiatus, but it's easier with one of these new helmets with the
bug guards. Get one.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 9:38 AM
> Just saying hello as I am new to this list. I am getting back into trail
> riding after a 15+ year hiatus and have recently bought a 94 DR350 and am
> enjoying it very much here in Colorado. It appears to have the airbox
> modified by opening the top and has the Supertrapp muffler. I have a
White
> Bros header pipe on order. Jetting seems okay from checking plug and love
> its torque throughout the power band. Renthal bars and brushguards round
out
> the way I bought it and I am adding the Cyco active spare tube fenderbag
and
> crossbar mapcase.
> Any suggestions or feedback on the DR or riding in Colorado would be
> appreciated. Thanks,
>
> Craig K
> Colorado Springs, CO
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: webify <webify@vaix.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Another Roadless Poll
Date: 11 May 2000 15:34:22 -0400
you know.. I wouldn't mind if they took Virginia's 364,000 acres of
roadless areas and turned it into Wilderness area... just as long as
they would take 364,000 acres of other forest and open it to OHVs...
right now we have a total of 4 areas in the entire state!!! We've been
raped. I bet we don't have more than 5,000 acres available to OHVs and
some of that is closed seasonally. Really pathetic situation.. I voted
"Too far".
> >> > VOTE that the proposal goes too far. Believe me..it does!
> >> >
--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours 86 Kawasaki Concours (coming)
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor" ?? ?????? Trials Bike (shopping)
89 Honda PC-800 Hers 86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com http://www.mcrides.com/concours
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "G. Arms" <garms@ev1.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Another Roadless Poll
Date: 11 May 2000 15:30:44 -0500
I've looked all over the page but can't find where to vote. I see the
tabulation of the votes, but no place to enter one of my own. What am I
doing wrong?
----- Original Message -----
List <ktm@onelist.com>; WDSRC Mail List <wdsrc@onelist.com>; XRL650 List
<xrlug@onelist.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 1:34 PM
>
> >> > Here we go again. It seems the news media is again giving us a
chance
> >to
> >> be
> >> > heard.
> >> >
> >> > MSNBC has a poll going today regarding Clinton's Roadless Proposal.
> >> Please
> >> > VOTE that the proposal goes too far. Believe me..it does!
> >> >
> >> > Please go to this website to vote:
> >> http://www.msnbc.com/news/377104.asp#BODY
> >> > You'll have to scroll down to get to the vote box.
> >> >
> >> > Thank you
> >> > Suzanne
> >> > ICO Racing
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
> -
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>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "mmaiii" <mikeaustin@home.com>
Subject: (dr) 99 DR 350 with 75 miles for $3700 clean
Date: 11 May 2000 17:39:10 -0600
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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You can find it on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=327595022
<http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=327595022>
Check out the picture.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: HifiHerb@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Larger rear sprocket mods for DR650SE
Date: 11 May 2000 22:33:25 EDT
I'm installing a larger, 53 tooth, sprocket on the rear of my 1999 DR650SE.
Now the chain guard and chain guide need to be modified to fit correctly.
Also, the suzuki place told me there was a master link in the original chain,
but I can't find one. Does anyone know if the DR650's come with an endless
chain stock? Also, are extensions available for the chain guard and chain
guide to accomodate larger rear sprokets? Thanks!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin" <beauchemin@telus.net>
Subject: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 11 May 2000 20:05:31 -0700
Speaking of mufflers, does anyone have experience with the Big Gun system?
Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: HifiHerb@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Air Box Opening on 1999 DR650SE
Date: 11 May 2000 23:15:43 EDT
I was looking at the rubber air intake tube coming out of the top of the air
box on my dr650 and it looks small. It is oval and the ID is 1.5" X 1.0".
How does this compare with the restrictive opening on the 350? Would it help
to open up the top of the box, or is there an aftermarket air box available
for the DR650? If I do open up the top, will I need to change jetting? Any
help would be highly appreciated!! Thanks!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: (dr) dr350 handlebars
Date: 11 May 2000 23:21:01 EDT
Has anyone cut their handlebars on their dr 350? I cut mine 1" off of each
end for woods riding and added enduro engineering handguards. I removed the
solid metal bar in each end of the handlebars (apparently that is for anti
vibration?). Hey- maybe I even lightened the bike too?
In the woods (which is all I do) it handles much better and I don't seem to
hit as many trees...
Scott
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From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Another Roadless Poll
Date: 11 May 2000 20:23:02 -0700 (PDT)
> right now we have a total of 4 areas in the entire
> state!!! We've been
> raped. I bet we don't have more than 5,000 acres
> available to OHVs and
> some of that is closed seasonally. Really pathetic
> situation.. I voted
> "Too far".
VOTE that the proposal goes too far. Believe
> me..it does!
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
You have 4 more areas to ride in than I do.Every time
I go into the woods I must keep an eye out as I will
get into some trouble with the law if I get caught.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Larger rear sprocket mods for DR650SE
Date: 11 May 2000 22:49:27 -0500
IF I might ask, Why the heck are you going so large on the rear
sprocket? I dropped down one tooth on the front sprocket and it helped a
bunch off road. Although, it was ok on the street, it was a bit low for
long distance road work. By going to a 53 tooth on the rear, I'm
guessing first gear will be vertually unusable. Do you have the GearCalc
software? By going to a 53 tooth rear, you will go from 4145 rpm at
60mph to 5231 rpm at 60mph. Dropping one or two teeth on the front
sprocket would save you all the modifications to the chain and chain
guard as well. Just my opinion.. Oh, there is no master link in the
stock chain. You'll need a new chain anyway for the length. You'll just
have to grind a link off or use a chain breaker etc...Also, you'll need
a new front sprocket too, unless you have found a 525 rear sprocket...in
which the 525 chain will cost you a fortune. This is a good time to
switch to 520 chain and sprockets..
JB
>>> <HifiHerb@aol.com> 05/11/00 09:33PM >>>
I'm installing a larger, 53 tooth, sprocket on the rear of my 1999
DR650SE.
Now the chain guard and chain guide need to be modified to fit
correctly.
Also, the suzuki place told me there was a master link in the original
chain,
but I can't find one. Does anyone know if the DR650's come with an
endless
chain stock? Also, are extensions available for the chain guard and
chain
guide to accomodate larger rear sprokets? Thanks!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) New to list
Date: 12 May 2000 00:06:15 EDT
Haha ... beat ya to that one! Since my brain buckets are all older than 15
years, I bought a new one after buying the bike, bug guard and all! And yes,
it works great!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Air Box Opening on 1999 DR650SE
Date: 12 May 2000 00:21:04 EDT
<A HREF="http://www.kientech.com/">Kientech Engineering - Home Page</A>
Check these people out. They make an airbox for the DR350, but I am not sure
if they have one for the 650. It is pricey, which is why I do not have one
yet. I have heard and read about drilling three X one inch holes in the
airbox of the 350 and this is supposed to help a lot. On mine, a previous
owner almost completely removed the top of the airbox. A new friend here
(previous Suzuki dealer and owner of the first dr350 sold in Colorado
Springs) claims that opening the airbox, and going to an after-market muffler
and header gives almost as much horsepower increase as his tricked out dr350.
Of course you will want to check carb jetting with each mod. All a matter
of how much cash you have to burn.
Craig K DR350
Colorado Springs, CO
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From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Air Box Opening on 1999 DR350SE
Date: 11 May 2000 23:27:24 -0500
I'm sure this has been gone over before but I pulled the plug on my
DR350SE's airbox and the bike seems to be running a bit lean...swapped the
plug and it was gray rather than brown.
I have no idea how to rejet my carb or change the air screw...but wouldn't
mind learning how to do this. Is this problem simply an airscrew
adjustment?
The bike is popping on deceleration rather than a smooth decel.
Thanks
Eric
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From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Air Box Opening on 1999 DR350SE
Date: 11 May 2000 23:14:59 -0700
If you are going to increase the airflow you will have to rejet to match
fuel to air ratio so plan to take the carb out and I will try to help you
along on the rejetting thing. the first thing you will need to do is remove
the plug over the fuel screw it will need to be drilled out for access to
the fuel screw so that you can richen up the idle circuit that is why it is
popping on deaccelleration. You will have to also install a richer main jet.
Or you could just put the plug back in. If you want more performance you
will need to just cut the top out of the airbox and get a reasonable gain
for the same amount of effort. Ether way you are going to have to remove the
carb and do the jetting thing. Let me know If you need more detailed
information.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Eric Myers
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 9:27 PM
I'm sure this has been gone over before but I pulled the plug on my
DR350SE's airbox and the bike seems to be running a bit lean...swapped the
plug and it was gray rather than brown.
I have no idea how to rejet my carb or change the air screw...but wouldn't
mind learning how to do this. Is this problem simply an airscrew
adjustment?
The bike is popping on deceleration rather than a smooth decel.
Thanks
Eric
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gudmundurp@simi.is
Subject: (dr) exhaust and airbox mods resault !
Date: 12 May 2000 07:14:24 +0000
Hi jesse
I have finised the mods on my DR350 off road, and they were:
tokk the stock muffler, cut it open and took the spark arestor and opened
it up better,
and in stead of 24mm opening i put 38 mm in the end cap.
Then i cut the top of the airbox and jetted the carb. with 140 main and the
neadle to 4 groof.
this might sound like a poor mand mods but yu cn┤t do all things at ones.
I have allready put scidplait and frameguards from CRD and the where
expencive, and acerbis
handguards and ..........so on.
Tested the bike sllilghtly last evning and WHAT A CHANGE , its louder but
it moves and it feels
as it is all lighter all over the band. specilly in the middle to top,
suddenly i feel a powerboost, as when
i go up a steep hill and need the power.
everithing is esier and feels lighter.
in the furure though im planing on getting wortex airbox and maiby a fmf
povercore muffler, but this have to
do for now. much better than stock.
Gummi
Iceland
http://www.simnet.is/gudmundurp/
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: fabianlim <fabianlim@pacific.net.sg>
Subject: (dr) Popping problem
Date: 12 May 2000 15:30:25 +0800
Hello DR-riders,
Has anyone any experience with a smaller DR sibling...the DR200SE.
I ride one, am experiencing popping at any speed above 15 mph, when I cut
the throttle. I did punch a hole in the exhaust to free it up a little, but
now there is this bothering popping. Any help?
Also, would I need to rejet? Since I am a newbie on a bike, and ignorant
about jetting stuff, could anyone advise on this? I did try to tweek the
hidden screw on the Mikuni carb that's located between the carb and the engine.
Fabian
95' DR200SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: gudmundurp@simi.is
Subject: Re: (dr) Popping problem
Date: 12 May 2000 07:32:19 +0000
hi fabian
not as i now a much about theese tings, but it┤s seems to me as you need to
reejet.
i sent a mil to the llist just before and as it sais i did som exhaust
mods, i did them before i jetted or
cut the irbos and then i had a lot of popping withs is now gone after the
jetting.
so by for now.
Gummi
Iceland
http://www.simnet.is/gudmundurp/
fabianlim
<fabianlim@pacifi To: "dr@lists.xmission.com" <dr@lists.xmission.com>
c.net.sg> cc:
Sent by: Subject: (dr) Popping problem
owner-dr@lists.xm
ission.com
12.05.2000 07:30
Please respond to
fabianlim
Hello DR-riders,
Has anyone any experience with a smaller DR sibling...the DR200SE.
I ride one, am experiencing popping at any speed above 15 mph, when I cut
the throttle. I did punch a hole in the exhaust to free it up a little,
but
now there is this bothering popping. Any help?
Also, would I need to rejet? Since I am a newbie on a bike, and ignorant
about jetting stuff, could anyone advise on this? I did try to tweek the
hidden screw on the Mikuni carb that's located between the carb and the
engine.
Fabian
95' DR200SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: (dr) RE: exhaust and airbox mods resault !
Date: 12 May 2000 07:26:22 -0700
HI Gummi, glad to hear it hope you enjoy it more this summer. If you need
any more help please give me a message
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 12:14 AM
Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com
Hi jesse
I have finised the mods on my DR350 off road, and they were:
tokk the stock muffler, cut it open and took the spark arestor and opened
it up better,
and in stead of 24mm opening i put 38 mm in the end cap.
Then i cut the top of the airbox and jetted the carb. with 140 main and the
neadle to 4 groof.
this might sound like a poor mand mods but yu cn┤t do all things at ones.
I have allready put scidplait and frameguards from CRD and the where
expencive, and acerbis
handguards and ..........so on.
Tested the bike sllilghtly last evning and WHAT A CHANGE , its louder but
it moves and it feels
as it is all lighter all over the band. specilly in the middle to top,
suddenly i feel a powerboost, as when
i go up a steep hill and need the power.
everithing is esier and feels lighter.
in the furure though im planing on getting wortex airbox and maiby a fmf
povercore muffler, but this have to
do for now. much better than stock.
Gummi
Iceland
http://www.simnet.is/gudmundurp/
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jim Smith <jskydive@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650 lowered footpegs?
Date: 12 May 2000 09:04:25 -0700
Thanks, Kurt, I'll check it out.
Jim
>> I just bought a 2000 DR650 and wonder if anyone makes lowered footpegs for
>> it. I've got long legs and a little more distance between seat and pegs
>> would be more comfortable and make it easier to stand up when riding in
> the
>> dirt.
>>
>> Does anyone know if they are available? My dealer said he has never heard
> of
>> them.
>
> I haven't heard of them Jim, but if you call Tim Bernard at
> www.happy-trail.com I bet you could talk him in to creating a solution as he
> likes the DR650 and agrees it has a very tight cockpit. Tim acted as go
> between on the purchase of my '96 and when I came to pick it up at his shop
> he said that the former owner had cut and rewelded the pegs lower on the
> mouting stem and that it had made a world of difference. I have no basis of
> comparison but I can tell you mine is very comfortable....you can't tell it
> has been done...
>
> Kurt
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From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 12 May 2000 12:21:33 -0700
> Speaking of mufflers, does anyone have experience with the Big Gun system?
>
> Chris
I do. I have one on my KLR650. I have the complete system with the header
pipe and can. It comes standard with the racing core. For an extra $89 you
buy the spark arrestor/quiet core. While it will arrest sparks, it isn't
'much' quieter. Only changes the "brightness" of the tone somewhat. The
system is well made, looks great, and will increase your power noticably.
It will also piss off your neighborsif you live in a residential area as it
is loud. Very loud.
Cheers,
Arne
DSN_ klr650 Listmeister
Eh 13
www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage
http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mitja Jeric" <mitja.jeric@kiss.uni-lj.si>
Subject: (dr) Chain guard & Rear shock
Date: 12 May 2000 23:52:57 +0200
Has anybody removed the chain guard from the DR350 ?
I'd like to know if the life of the chain will be much shorter ?
I fell that after a driving over a big bump (or after jumps) the rear
shock takes long time before extending back. (There is a big difference
in the reaction time between the front and back of the bike).
The compression adjuster on the shock is set at 0.5 to max, there
is no rebound adjuster on my shock and I've set the preload almost
to max. I weight 163 lb. What should I do ?
Mitja
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Chain guard & Rear shock
Date: 12 May 2000 15:16:49 -0700
Mitja Jeric wrote:
>
> Has anybody removed the chain guard from the DR350 ?
> I'd like to know if the life of the chain will be much shorter ?
>
> I fell that after a driving over a big bump (or after jumps) the rear
> shock takes long time before extending back. (There is a big difference
> in the reaction time between the front and back of the bike).
> The compression adjuster on the shock is set at 0.5 to max, there
> is no rebound adjuster on my shock and I've set the preload almost
> to max. I weight 163 lb. What should I do ?
>
> Mitja
Mitja,
I'd suggest you soften the spring preload. You don't say which spring
you have, but as I weigh 250, I have the 8.0 Kg. spring, set at almost
zero preload. It stands to reason that if the front and rear are
reacting differently, that they are set differently and too far apart.
Just start playing with different settings until you start learning the
differences at each setting. Start with rather large changes so you can
feel them easier, then start refining the setting to your taste.
And for what purpose would you want to remove the chain guard?? It's
there for a reason, doesn't weigh that much, leave it alone.
Wayne
--
********************************************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
http://www.mikthebik.com/
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
MB-5 S-65 S-90 CT-90 SS-125 CA-95 CL-160 CB-200 TL-250 CB77 CL77 CA77
CB350-4 CB400F CB500-4 B-550F CB750F GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 (for sale) Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 12 May 2000 17:51:42 -0000
>
> > Speaking of mufflers, does anyone have experience with the Big Gun
system?
> >
> > Chris
>
> I do. I have one on my KLR650. I have the complete system with the
header
> pipe and can. It comes standard with the racing core. For an extra $89
you
> buy the spark arrestor/quiet core. While it will arrest sparks, it isn't
> 'much' quieter. Only changes the "brightness" of the tone somewhat. The
> system is well made, looks great, and will increase your power noticably.
> It will also piss off your neighborsif you live in a residential area as
it
> is loud. Very loud.
And sadly----as much as I love the sound of a aftermarket exhaust on
a four stroke------you will be contributing to the demise of offroad riding.
This not an opinion---a definite fact.
Here is the way I look at--------------If you bike had 22 HP stock (just
an example)----having 23 0r 24 isn't worth the disadvantages.
Just Last year--------I had to change riding buddies------we were banded
in the same weekend from a campground and a Motel we had ridden to because
of one guys aftermarket exhaust on his WR400. They simply said "Don't come
back"!!!!!!!
I hate it------but it's the fact!!!
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 12 May 2000 16:13:44 -0700
Mark Sampson wrote:
>
> >
> > > Speaking of mufflers, does anyone have experience with the Big Gun
> system?
> > >
> > > Chris
> >
> > I do. I have one on my KLR650. I have the complete system with the
> header
> > pipe and can. It comes standard with the racing core. For an extra $89
> you
> > buy the spark arrestor/quiet core. While it will arrest sparks, it isn't
> > 'much' quieter. Only changes the "brightness" of the tone somewhat. The
> > system is well made, looks great, and will increase your power noticably.
> > It will also piss off your neighborsif you live in a residential area as
> it
> > is loud. Very loud.
>
> And sadly----as much as I love the sound of a aftermarket exhaust on
> a four stroke------you will be contributing to the demise of offroad riding.
> This not an opinion---a definite fact.
> Here is the way I look at--------------If you bike had 22 HP stock (just
> an example)----having 23 0r 24 isn't worth the disadvantages.
> Just Last year--------I had to change riding buddies------we were banded
> in the same weekend from a campground and a Motel we had ridden to because
> of one guys aftermarket exhaust on his WR400. They simply said "Don't come
> back"!!!!!!!
>
> I hate it------but it's the fact!!!
>
> Mark Sampson
Mark and List,
I'll second the motion. You are so right, the little extra gain is not
worth pissing off those who wish we weren't there in the first place.
And you can gain more by doing other things to your bike: suspension
upgrade; airbox; riding skills. You will often find the best and fastest
riders are on quiet, stock equipment, take a lesson from them.
And please, at Moab next month, there will be many of us riding the
trails out there. We have to share them with bicyclists, 4-wheelers,
hikers, and most of all, Rangers. Keep it quiet and safe, you can still
have a lot of fun that way.
A whole herd of noisy, fast, dust causing motorcyclists will be sure to
get us "un-invited" back next year. And that's not just at Moab, but at
all the areas they are just looking for any excuse to close down. You
will be doing us, and YOURSELF, a great favor by "keeping clean".
Wayne
--
********************************************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
http://www.mikthebik.com/
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
MB-5 S-65 S-90 CT-90 SS-125 CA-95 CL-160 CB-200 TL-250 CB77 CL77 CA77
CB350-4 CB400F CB500-4 B-550F CB750F GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 (for sale) Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jim_B=E9ranger?= <redblues@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: (dr) ndr- how to carry tools
Date: 12 May 2000 22:03:42 -0400
I found a web page some time ago which provided details for building a tool
carrying PVC tube that hung off the skid plate for dual sport bikes.. does
anyone have the link?
-J
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mitja Jeric" <mitja.jeric@kiss.uni-lj.si>
Subject: Re: (dr) Chain guard & Rear shock
Date: 13 May 2000 10:01:26 +0200
The shock spring is stock. I've set the preload almost all the way in
because the bike felt very low (I'm quite tall and I the bike fells so low -
maybe it would be better to make a higher seat and buy higher bars) ,
also after doing that I found that I could ride a lot faster over small
bumps (the bike didn't wobble any more). But when riding over big bumps the
bike feels just the way I described it.
Mitja
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 13 May 2000 06:27:53 -0600
> upgrade; airbox; riding skills. You will often find the best and fastest
> riders are on quiet, stock equipment, take a lesson from them.
> And please, at Moab next month, there will be many of us riding the
> trails out there. We have to share them with bicyclists, 4-wheelers,
> hikers, and most of all, Rangers. Keep it quiet and safe, you can still
> have a lot of fun that way.
Wayne gives me the opportunity to remind DR list members of two upcoming
events which have their roots as Dual Sport News sponsored events. The first
is the 4th annual "Utah Get-Together"...founded and coordinated by former
DSN editor, Gino Pokluda. Headquartered out of Canyonlands Campground and
Moab, UT...this event has become a wonderful "all-brands" social gathering.
I expect to see over 150 riders and guests this year in one of the most
breathtaking sites in the country. You can gain more information by visiting
www.dualsport.org (www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page54.html) . The dates are
June 7-10.
The second is the Dual Sport News/Happy Trails Motorcycle Products 1st
Annual Swiftwater Rally. Taking place on August 23-26, the rally is based
out of Swiftwater RV Park and Store on the Salmon River in Northern Idaho.
The focus of the ride is to offer breathtaking views of Idaho and Oregon
with the best dual sporting anywhere. Ride organizer is Tim Bernard at
Tim@happy-trail.com (www.happy-trail.com) .
I hope to see you there.
Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News
'97 DR350SE
'96 DR650SE DSN Project Bike
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Coleman, Patrick" <PDCOLEMA@southernco.com>
Subject: (dr) More Super Motard info
Date: 13 May 2000 12:25:24 -0500
A couple of weeks ago, I posted a message about Super Motard-ing my DR. Most
of the responses were "what's a super motard?"
A buddy of mine just did a semi-conversion on a XR400. A photo can be found
at http://home.earthlink.net/~rletteer/xrsmII.jpg
Here is a quote from my friend, who is primarily a sport bike rider who
occasionally dual sport rides. By the way, he has a stable of sport bikes,
mostly Ducatis and BMWs, that he normally rides:
------------------------
I've done it now. Picked up a 3.5"X17 front and 4.5"X17 rear Acront wheels
w/ gold Talon hubs, MEZ1s and a big ass front disc and put them on the
XR400. Got it all together last night. Had to get new shocks on the work
truck this morning so threw the motard in the back - left the truck at the
tire store - and spent the next two and a half hours carving the twisties
near Woodstock. WOO-HOO!
This fugger rails...and STOPS!! What a great morning at the office.
-----------------------
Just another way to have fun and eliminate any excess cash you may have.
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From: "Gary Douglas" <GDouglas@peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) More Super Motard info
Date: 12 May 2000 15:40:43 -0400
<<<A couple of weeks ago, I posted a message about Super Motard-ing my DR.
Most
of the responses were "what's a super motard?"A buddy of mine just did a
semi-conversion on a XR400. A photo can be found at
http://home.earthlink.net/~rletteer/xrsmII.jpg
Wow, that looks like a fierce road warrior! What effect does it have to put
smaller diameter wheels/tires on a bike like ours? What's it like to ride
(on-road) versus the standard size wheels?
Gary Douglas
So. Burlington, VT
'99 DR350SE
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From: "Shayne Seefeldt" <seefeldt@calgaryjiujitsu.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) More Super Motard info
Date: 13 May 2000 14:26:02 -0600
> <<<A couple of weeks ago, I posted a message about Super Motard-ing my DR.
> Most
> of the responses were "what's a super motard?"A buddy of mine just did a
> semi-conversion on a XR400. A photo can be found at
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rletteer/xrsmII.jpg
>
So is there actually any super-motard racing in the States?? That would be
something to see, very exciting. I've heard that in France there are
numerous injuries, but that's not why I want to see Super-motard racing!
By the way, what type of pipe is on that Honda??
Regards,
Shayne.
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/seefeldt/dr/index.html
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From: TrailByker@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 13 May 2000 18:34:43 EDT
In a message dated 05/12/00 18:09:01 Eastern Standard Time,
wormworks@home.com writes:
> Mark Sampson wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > > Speaking of mufflers, does anyone have experience with the Big Gun
> > system?
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > >
> > > I do. I have one on my KLR650. I have the complete system with the
> > header
> > > pipe and can. It comes standard with the racing core. For an extra
$89
> > you
> > > buy the spark arrestor/quiet core. While it will arrest sparks, it
isn'
> t
> > > 'much' quieter. Only changes the "brightness" of the tone somewhat.
> The
> > > system is well made, looks great, and will increase your power
noticably.
>
> > > It will also piss off your neighborsif you live in a residential area
as
> > it
> > > is loud. Very loud.
> >
> > And sadly----as much as I love the sound of a aftermarket
exhaust
> on
> > a four stroke------you will be contributing to the demise of offroad
> riding.
> > This not an opinion---a definite fact.
> > Here is the way I look at--------------If you bike had 22 HP stock (
> just
> > an example)----having 23 0r 24 isn't worth the disadvantages.
> > Just Last year--------I had to change riding buddies------we were
> banded
> > in the same weekend from a campground and a Motel we had ridden to
because
> > of one guys aftermarket exhaust on his WR400. They simply said "Don't
> come
> > back"!!!!!!!
> >
> > I hate it------but it's the fact!!!
> >
> > Mark Sampson
>
> Mark and List,
> I'll second the motion. You are so right, the little extra gain is not
> worth pissing off those who wish we weren't there in the first place.
> And you can gain more by doing other things to your bike: suspension
> upgrade; airbox; riding skills. You will often find the best and fastest
> riders are on quiet, stock equipment, take a lesson from them.
> And please, at Moab next month, there will be many of us riding the
> trails out there. We have to share them with bicyclists, 4-wheelers,
> hikers, and most of all, Rangers. Keep it quiet and safe, you can still
> have a lot of fun that way.
> A whole herd of noisy, fast, dust causing motorcyclists will be sure to
> get us "un-invited" back next year. And that's not just at Moab, but at
> all the areas they are just looking for any excuse to close down. You
> will be doing us, and YOURSELF, a great favor by "keeping clean".
> Wayne
> --
Mark and Wayne, et al:
Halleluah!
It is refreshing to see some of you guys out there with some common sense and
a realization that we can sometimes be our own worst enemies. "Performance"
exhausts on any bikes that are not used solely in competition are just more
nails in the coffin called "land closures". The miniscule amount of HP
increase is not worth the massive amount of noise these systems generate.
Stuffing them up with "quiet cores" or discs to make them bearable as far as
noise levels will very effectively negate any of the claimed power increases.
Save the 200 to 300 bucks normally spent on these systems and use it to dial
in the suspension and modify the intake tract; ride quietly so you can.....so
we ALL can.
Mike Mahoney
(a quiet, dirt only) '93 DR350
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: TrailByker@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 13 May 2000 19:20:41 EDT
To the List;
The following excerpt is taken from Baja Designs (bajadesigns.com) online=20
catalog under the section for exhaust and muffler baffles:
"Muffling a big bore four stroke motor is a real pain. Anything you do to=20
make it quiet seems to have the same effect as stuffing a potato in the=20
exhaust pipe. I=E2=80=99ve come to realize, however, that if there is going=20=
to be=20
anywhere left to ride, its up to us to make our bikes as quiet as possible.=20
I=E2=80=99d rather put up with a little horsepower loss than have closed sig=
ns on my=20
favorite riding areas. If you can put up with the stock muffler, leave it on=
.=20
=E2=80=9CBut it weighs 23 lbs!=E2=80=9D one customer told me. Try 7 lbs, 3 o=
unces (XR 600).=20
It=E2=80=99s lighter than it looks. The lightest aftermarket mufflers shed a=
whooping=20
2 lbs (Big Deal on a motorcycle that already weighs 285 lbs)."=20
This is from a well regarded, aftermarket supplier of dual sport/dirt bike=20
accessories.
Mike
'93 DR350
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: njkouba <njkouba@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: (dr) Chain guard & Rear shock
Date: 14 May 2000 10:29:03 -0600
Mitja,
The stock rear shock comes from Suzuki with too much rebound for the
stock
spring and linkage, I guess they figured too much was better than too
little if the external adjuster was removed. The valving internally is
very similar to the dirt only shock with the external rebound adjuster,
so
it acts as if it had an adjuster that is set all the way hard. The
stock
rear spring is approx. 5.7kg., and the shock is rebound valved for a
7.1kg.
spring. So the fix is either revalve the shock internally or install a
heavier spring. The problem with this is the 7.1kg spring is too stiff
for
you with the stock linkage and the stock spring is too soft for you no
matter how the shock is valved. The Kouba Links and a 7.1kg rear spring
may not be the cheapest at first but in the end is by far the best
solution
for the money thats available. Have a look at our web-page highlighted
below, it has more info on how things should work on that end of the
bike.
If I was too take the chain guard off I would replace it with the
shorter
dirt only one.
Norm
--
Dr. DR
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
Mitja Jeric wrote:
> Has anybody removed the chain guard from the DR350 ?
> I'd like to know if the life of the chain will be much shorter ?
>
> I fell that after a driving over a big bump (or after jumps) the rear
> shock takes long time before extending back. (There is a big difference
> in the reaction time between the front and back of the bike).
> The compression adjuster on the shock is set at 0.5 to max, there
> is no rebound adjuster on my shock and I've set the preload almost
> to max. I weight 163 lb. What should I do ?
>
> Mitja
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <pazuela@telnor.net>
Subject: (dr) Seat
Date: 14 May 2000 13:40:35 -0700
Hey guys,
Has anyone changed their seat, or the seat cover on 350drse??, my stock one
is all worn out, i dont know who makes an aftermarket one for this bike and
i would like to change it..
Pedro
97 350drse
Baja, Mexico
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From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Seat
Date: 14 May 2000 18:58:33 EDT
Pedro,
give these people a try. I have made one order with them and they deliver
what they say. I have also heard locally they sell good quality stuff. You
can also order a paper catalog from them as well as order online.
<A HREF="http://www.bajadesigns.com/">BAJA DESIGNS HOME PAGE</A>
Good luck,
Craig K
Colorado springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jmloco@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) More Super Motard info
Date: 14 May 2000 19:57:18 EDT
Looks like a great bike. Lots of fun! How much for the parts to do the
conversion?
John
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Chain guard & Rear shock
Date: 14 May 2000 22:48:27 EDT
That front chain guard thing around the sprocket just collects dirt and small
rocks in behind there where I can't even wash it out with a hose. The last
time that happened, I removed the guard. Now my rule is to never mount the
bike with shoes that have laces. I also removed the other chain guards. It
sure makes it easier to clean and lube the chain. And lastly, many bikes I
see do not have chain guards.
I ride in tight woods and have never had any of the sticks that poke me and
my bike all the time, cause any problems with regards to the chain. Am I just
lucky so far?
Scott
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From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 14 May 2000 19:53:09 -0700
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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The June issue of Dirt Bike has a good write up on the DRZ, DRZ E and E
models. It was worth reading. Kind of makes me think about selling my DR
(both of them) and buying the S model. The trick digital instrument package
would be a real asset on the events I attend.
Doug
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From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 14 May 2000 23:04:32 EDT
Yeah, but the S model is blue...everyone will think it's a Yamaha...as soon
as I win the lottery the E model with an aftermarket street legal kit is
going into my garage ;)
...the yellow one...
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From: =?US-ASCII?Q?Jim_Beranger?= <redblues@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: (dr) 350s problems..
Date: 14 May 2000 23:16:42 -0400
I just recently got a 91 DR350S which didn't show any problems at first but
just recently these problems popped up-
first, the right turn signal stopped blinking.. it would turn on and remain
on. the left signal works perfectly.
second, it is my belief that the brake light should be on dimly at all
times, and turn bright when the lever/pedal is pulled/pushed. well, the
brake light isn't usually on and sometimes turns bright when the brakes are
applied..
finally, sometimes, just sometimes, the bike will shift into neutral between
first and second especially when shifting quickly.. i think that's my fault
and not the bike's. btw, is it supposed to be tricky to get the bike into
neutral while the engine's running or does the clutch need servicing?
any help is appreciated.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 14 May 2000 23:08:12 -0500
The S model comes in yellow OR blue!!
JB
>>> <USSergeant@aol.com> 05/14/00 10:04PM >>>
Yeah, but the S model is blue...everyone will think it's a Yamaha...as
soon
as I win the lottery the E model with an aftermarket street legal kit
is
going into my garage ;)
...the yellow one...
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Air Box Opening on 1999 DR350SE
Date: 14 May 2000 23:40:11 -0500
Jesse,
Thanks for the responce on my jetting/airbox inquiry. I stuck the airbox
plug back in and will mess with it all when I upgrade the bike with your
airbox in the next month or so. No sense in doing this twice.
Eric
----------
If you are going to increase the airflow you will have to rejet to match
fuel to air ratio so plan to take the carb out and I will try to help you
along on the rejetting thing. the first thing you will need to do is remove
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From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: Re: (dr) Popping problem
Date: 15 May 2000 11:46:23
Hi Fabian and others!
Hope this can be of any interest for you:
The reason for popping is that the air fuel mixture is to lean, meaning to
much air in relation to the fuel. When the spark plug ignites the mixture a
lean mixture burns slower than a correct mixture (reason for this is some
chemichal stuff!) When the exhaust port opens the gasses still hasn=B4t been
burnt completely so it travels out to the exhaust pipe. It=B4s very hot so
the gasses ignites. Therefore the popping.=20
Markus
Skellefte=E5, Sweden
At 15.30 2000-05-12 +0800, fabianlim wrote:
>Hello DR-riders,
>
>Has anyone any experience with a smaller DR sibling...the DR200SE.
>I ride one, am experiencing popping at any speed above 15 mph, when I cut
>the throttle. I did punch a hole in the exhaust to free it up a little,=
but
>now there is this bothering popping. Any help?
>
>Also, would I need to rejet? Since I am a newbie on a bike, and ignorant
>about jetting stuff, could anyone advise on this? I did try to tweek the
>hidden screw on the Mikuni carb that's located between the carb and the
engine.
>
>Fabian
>95' DR200SE
>
>
>-
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jmloco@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 15 May 2000 07:58:24 EDT
Doug,
What format is the article in? I could open it in Word, but could not read
it.
Thank you,
John
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From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 15 May 2000 10:21:02 -0000
> The June issue of Dirt Bike has a good write up on the DRZ, DRZ E and E
> models. It was worth reading. Kind of makes me think about selling my DR
> (both of them) and buying the S model. The trick digital instrument
package
> would be a real asset on the events I attend.
>
> Doug
Yeah!!! I got one Doug and it is awesome!!! The digital instrument
includes 3 odometers------2 of them are ressetable. And you can make one of
them count down (backwards) if you want, instead of forward!!!
Power---wow!!! No aftermarket stuff needed here!!!! The exhaust is
almost as light as any aftermarket.
I've trimmed a little weight off of mine here and there----even took off
the electric cooling fan. The offroad model doesn't even have one, so I
figured they put in on there in case some dimwit would leave the engine
running while for 25 minutes while waiting for a train. So far-----no
problem!!!!!
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 15 May 2000 10:27:20 -0000
> Yeah, but the S model is blue...everyone will think it's a Yamaha...as
soon
> as I win the lottery the E model with an aftermarket street legal kit is
> going into my garage ;)
>
> ...the yellow one...
The S model comes in Yellow also----i got a blue one--my buddy has a
yellow one. The blue one is faster :)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Richard Fantini" <rich@noreast.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 15 May 2000 11:48:10 -0400
>From what I understand, you can even recalibrate odometer when you trash the
factory rubber... definitely a good idea.
-Rich
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 6:21 AM
>
> > The June issue of Dirt Bike has a good write up on the DRZ, DRZ E and E
> > models. It was worth reading. Kind of makes me think about selling my
DR
> > (both of them) and buying the S model. The trick digital instrument
> package
> > would be a real asset on the events I attend.
> >
> > Doug
>
>
> Yeah!!! I got one Doug and it is awesome!!! The digital
instrument
> includes 3 odometers------2 of them are ressetable. And you can make one
of
> them count down (backwards) if you want, instead of forward!!!
> Power---wow!!! No aftermarket stuff needed here!!!! The exhaust is
> almost as light as any aftermarket.
> I've trimmed a little weight off of mine here and there----even took
off
> the electric cooling fan. The offroad model doesn't even have one, so I
> figured they put in on there in case some dimwit would leave the engine
> running while for 25 minutes while waiting for a train. So far-----no
> problem!!!!!
>
> Mark Sampson
> didi@acworld.net
> 2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
> 1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
> 1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
> 1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
> does it all!!!!!!!
> All GPS equipped of course!!!
>
>
> -
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Comobu@aol.com
Subject: (dr) DR350 cannisters, gearing and pegs...
Date: 15 May 2000 12:41:03 EDT
Hello Jesse.....
Did I read right?.. you're running 13/52 gearing?.. won't that make 1st too
low and then run thru all the other gears too quick?
Should the hose coming from the bottom of the street DR CV carb that came
from the charcoal cannister system be plugged when disabling it?
Whatever happened to your custom rearset pegs for tall riders.. was there a
picture available?
Thanks..
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Cowger <bryan_cowger@agilent.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Chain guard & Rear shock
Date: 15 May 2000 10:18:54 -0700
>
> That front chain guard thing around the sprocket just collects dirt and small
> rocks in behind there where I can't even wash it out with a hose. The last
> time that happened, I removed the guard. Now my rule is to never mount the
> bike with shoes that have laces. I also removed the other chain guards. It
> sure makes it easier to clean and lube the chain. And lastly, many bikes I
> see do not have chain guards.
>
> I ride in tight woods and have never had any of the sticks that poke me and
> my bike all the time, cause any problems with regards to the chain. Am I just
> lucky so far?
If you're lucky, then so am I. I've done the same things, for the same
reasons -- removed everything but the piece of curved metal that mounts
underneath the front sprocket guard.
I only ride with boots, and I can't imagine how a part of a stiff
leather boot could possibly get caught in the front sprocket area, even
if I tried to stick it in there.
In my mind, the main danger of the chain is the master link opening up
and the chain whipping around to take my leg off. I check that link
diligently, and replace it at least once a season. (I know that a lot
of the DRs have a continuous chain, but a larger rear sprocket often
necessitates a new, longer chain.)
My $.02
Bryan
'96 DR441
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Andrew Strickler" <kihop@hotmail.com>
Subject: (dr) Handlebar Weights on DR650
Date: 15 May 2000 12:49:39 CDT
All--
I just bought a '99 DR650 and am curious about the weights on the ends of
the handlebars. What is their purpose, and what's the effect of taking them
off?
Thanks, Andrew
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Handlebar Weights on DR650
Date: 15 May 2000 10:50:50 -0700
Hi Andrew these are vibration dampening bar ends and help stop the rider
from getting numb hands on long trips, that is their purpose.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Andrew Strickler
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 10:50 AM
All--
I just bought a '99 DR650 and am curious about the weights on the ends of
the handlebars. What is their purpose, and what's the effect of taking them
off?
Thanks, Andrew
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Colin Parkes" <bigcolinp@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350s problems..
Date: 15 May 2000 18:59:32 +0400
The turn signal thing sounds like either 1 bulb has blown, or 1/both are the
wrong wattage (should be 21watts).
The brake/tail lamp is a dual filament one (21w/5w), sounds like the 5w
filament has blown...
The trick about getting the bike into neutral is to do it while the bike is
still moving, doesn't have to be going fast...
good luck,
Col
-----Original Message-----
>I just recently got a 91 DR350S which didn't show any problems at first but
>just recently these problems popped up-
>
>first, the right turn signal stopped blinking.. it would turn on and remain
>on. the left signal works perfectly.
>second, it is my belief that the brake light should be on dimly at all
>times, and turn bright when the lever/pedal is pulled/pushed. well, the
>brake light isn't usually on and sometimes turns bright when the brakes are
>applied..
>finally, sometimes, just sometimes, the bike will shift into neutral
between
>first and second especially when shifting quickly.. i think that's my fault
>and not the bike's. btw, is it supposed to be tricky to get the bike into
>neutral while the engine's running or does the clutch need servicing?
>
>any help is appreciated.
>
>
>-
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jonathan Moon <jlmoon@yahoo.com>
Subject: (dr) Lean?
Date: 15 May 2000 11:08:19 -0700 (PDT)
Greetings listers.
My 92 DR350S is almost ready to roll, but I'm having a bit of a
problem. After warming and riding for a while, the bike idles at like
5000 rpm when put into neutral. Also, the rpms stay high when the
throttle is let off after revving, even in gear. The throttle is not
sticking (checked that first). The top of the airbox has been mostly
cut out (previous owner).
We think we may have diagnosed the problem, but we're not sure yet.
The pilot screw (not the pilot jet) on the outside of the carb should
have a little dinky o-ring at the top and that was missing along with
the washer that pushes against it. Could this little part be causing
my difficulties or do you guys think something else is going on...
Thanks for yor advice.
Jon
ALSO! Does anyone know how to get my own personal copy of the parts
fiche for my bike? I'd like to have it blow up into a poster for my
apartment wall :)
=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia
Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax (706)-542-3719
email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Tom Myers <TomMyers@cycoactive.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Handlebar Weights on DR650
Date: 15 May 2000 11:14:01 -0700
>All--
>I just bought a '99 DR650 and am curious about the weights on the
>ends of the handlebars. What is their purpose, and what's the effect
>of taking them off?
>
>Thanks, Andrew
Those are vibration dampers. Taking them off will be like combining
all four of your pistons into one.
Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com
| e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com
+------------------------------------+
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Lean?
Date: 15 May 2000 12:19:26 -0700
That is a suspect thing and should be corrected because it can be pulling
air from the area that the o'ring is supposed to be sealing off. If your
dealer does not have these items your local bearing supply house should have
the o'ring. I have them if you can't find it locally.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jonathan Moon
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 11:08 AM
Greetings listers.
My 92 DR350S is almost ready to roll, but I'm having a bit of a
problem. After warming and riding for a while, the bike idles at like
5000 rpm when put into neutral. Also, the rpms stay high when the
throttle is let off after revving, even in gear. The throttle is not
sticking (checked that first). The top of the airbox has been mostly
cut out (previous owner).
We think we may have diagnosed the problem, but we're not sure yet.
The pilot screw (not the pilot jet) on the outside of the carb should
have a little dinky o-ring at the top and that was missing along with
the washer that pushes against it. Could this little part be causing
my difficulties or do you guys think something else is going on...
Thanks for yor advice.
Jon
ALSO! Does anyone know how to get my own personal copy of the parts
fiche for my bike? I'd like to have it blow up into a poster for my
apartment wall :)
=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia
Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax (706)-542-3719
email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jkraft1151@cs.com
Subject: (dr) (no subject)
Date: 15 May 2000 17:05:00 EDT
I have a question for you Jesse I have a 96 dr350se with a few mods the
problem is that when I rev my bike or on a decent down a hill when I have the
clutch pulled in the RPM's take a while to come down even if I am standing
still the RPM doesn't return to normal right away it's not the throtle
because I already replaced the cables cleaned the carb and still no change ,
The only thing that looks out of the ordinary is the plastic piece that goes
on the needle under the clip seems to fit snug it still can move just not
freely I have already replaced the needle with the jxneedle and spring
Jason
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Handlebar Weights on DR650
Date: 15 May 2000 16:25:08 -0000
> All--
> I just bought a '99 DR650 and am curious about the weights on the ends of
> the handlebars. What is their purpose, and what's the effect of taking
them
> off?
They have just one purpose--to cut down on vibration. I wouldn't worry
about taking them off unless all you are going to do is run up and down the
interstate.
I took them off my DRZ400S with no ill effects--although your 650 may
show a little vibration--since it has a bigger engine.
I have a BMWF650 which I put Acerbis handguards on and thought of
getting rid of the weights. But it spends most of its time on the road
covering some pretty serious miles, so I left them on it.
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Handlebar Weights on DR650
Date: 15 May 2000 16:38:38 -0500
Jesse is correct, those are for dampening of engine vibes. Now, I have
removed mine (because I have Acerbis hand guards and they had to go to
fit them) and vibration is not really a problem. I can still see a clear
picture in the mirrors at 60mph. 2 weekends ago I rode 1300 miles and
numb or tingling hands were not an issue. Which is more than I can say
for my ass. OUCH! You want to try buzzy, try a KTM 640...Forget the
mirrors, I can't see out of my eyeballs on one of those. Compared to
other 650cc singles, the DR is very smooth. I have ridden others (KLR,
KTM, F650 etc). and only the BMW is close. Of course most are putting
out more hp stock too.
JB
>>> "Andrew Strickler" <kihop@hotmail.com> 05/15/00 12:49PM >>>
All--
I just bought a '99 DR650 and am curious about the weights on the ends
of
the handlebars. What is their purpose, and what's the effect of taking
them
off?
Thanks, Andrew
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Coleman, Patrick" <PDCOLEMA@southernco.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) More Super Motard info
Date: 15 May 2000 17:22:35 -0500
> Looks like a great bike. Lots of fun! How much for the parts to do the
> conversion?
>
> John
He bought the parts used from a guy that had them on an XR600, for
$800. He said that was about 1/2 of new price.
I hope to bum a ride on it this weekend.
Patrick
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Comobu@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Disabling the smog cannister...
Date: 15 May 2000 19:16:27 EDT
Jesse,
The Suzuki manual says at "high speed" is when the charcoal cannister is
purged.. into the carb...??? but it is the pipe at the bottom of the CV
carb.. is there vacuum there I'm not sure.. so plug it? Also this 90 DRS
seem to have just 1 bowl vent hose...
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Andrew Spooner" <Andrew@Jasma.demon.co.uk>
Subject: (dr) 93 DR350S not reving above 7000 rpm
Date: 16 May 2000 00:16:31 +0100
I've got a 93' DR350S fitted with JK's airbox, a 34mm flatslide carb and big
bore CRD free flow exhuast, but the bike has decided not to rev over 7000
rpm. I changed a few weeks earlier the main jet for a larger one and the
bike was working great then it happened all of a sudden and I can't find out
what has gone wrong. It just cuts out, drops down a few revs and runs again
below 7000. The bike does not stall it just won't go above 7000 rpm.
Thinking back it might have happened after - one day the kick start seemed
to lock up on me (I thought I'd broken my leg as I tried to jick it over and
was hoping around for a good 5 minutes) but the bike did start after that
and runs well up to 7000 rpm although the compression seems down and now
I've got an oil leak from the kick start seal. (Any advice on how easy this
is to change please)
I've changed the main jet for a few different ones with no effect. I took it
to the local garage and they checked out the carb and also changed the jet a
few times and still no effect. The garage thinks its electrical. Does anyone
have any ideas what it could be and what I can do to fix it.
I've also got to change the clutch, anyone know a good place in the UK that
can give me a good price? Would be interested from guys in Europe how much a
replacement clutch cost where you live.
Thanks, Andrew
Epsom, UK
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Rainer.Knape.SGG@t-online.de (Rainer Knape)
Subject: Re: (dr) Air Box Opening on 1999 DR650SE
Date: 13 May 2000 12:03:27 +0200
I removed the rubber tube from the airbox and enlarged the opening.
The opening is now aprox. 4 square inch (instead of 2 with the rubber tube).
I use a #145 main jet (stock: 140).
Did I get a big power boost ? No, maybe a slight increase and the intake sound
gets a bit louder.
Rainer
____________________
HifiHerb@aol.com schrieb:
> I was looking at the rubber air intake tube coming out of the top of the air
> box on my dr650 and it looks small. It is oval and the ID is 1.5" X 1.0".
> How does this compare with the restrictive opening on the 350? Would it help
> to open up the top of the box, or is there an aftermarket air box available
> for the DR650? If I do open up the top, will I need to change jetting? Any
> help would be highly appreciated!! Thanks!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike Nielson <mnielson@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) New UFO Dual Sport Lighting
Date: 15 May 2000 17:17:44 -0700
Hi Al (and everyone else),
Do you happen to know if the KTM-style "fenderette" is available
as a universal fender extension? I was looking at UFO taillights
in a (possibly old) White Brothers catalog today. I did see the
KTM-style unit but it was available only as a package with the OEM
KTM plastic upper fender attached. The universal fender extension
had the somewhat bulkier taillight. Definitely not as cool looking
as the KTM-style taillight.
Has anyone on the list actually installed a Maier MX fender/UFO
extension taillight combo on a DR350? If yes, can you offer any
advice to the rest of us?
Thanx,
- Mike
On Sat, Apr 22, 2000 at 01:29:38AM -0400, al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com wrote:
> ... Although I have not yet received one of the taillight assemblies, it
> should be just what the doctor ordered in most cases. It looks similar
> to the O.E.M. unit found on KTM RXCs, fitting under the rear fender, and
> with a small, black "fenderette" just the right size for mounting a
> license plate. Although the taillight assembly will not work very well
> with stock DR 350 rear fenders, it should work wonderfully with the new
> MX style rear fender from Maier plastics.
>
> Hope this helps some of you.
>
> Happy trails,
>
> Al
>
> C. Al Roof
> Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure Ride
> Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
> Office Manager / Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki Kawasaki of Gastonia
> Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
> Association, Inc.
> Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
> Conservation Council, Inc.
> 501 Cox Road
> Gastonia, North Carolina 28054
> 704) 867-9626 Office
> (704) 867-3699 Fax
> Al.Roof.for.NC.Trails@juno.com
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From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 15 May 2000 18:51:59 -0700
Yes, this is correct. Speaking of factory rubber on the S models...ditch
the factory rubber unless all you plan on doing is street riding.
One drawback I see is the difficulty in changing the spark plug. Looks like
the tank needs to be removed. Any DRZ owners out there have comments
regarding this??
Doug
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Richard Fantini
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 8:48 AM
>From what I understand, you can even recalibrate odometer when you trash
the
factory rubber... definitely a good idea.
-Rich
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 6:21 AM
>
> > The June issue of Dirt Bike has a good write up on the DRZ, DRZ E and E
> > models. It was worth reading. Kind of makes me think about selling my
DR
> > (both of them) and buying the S model. The trick digital instrument
> package
> > would be a real asset on the events I attend.
> >
> > Doug
>
>
> Yeah!!! I got one Doug and it is awesome!!! The digital
instrument
> includes 3 odometers------2 of them are ressetable. And you can make one
of
> them count down (backwards) if you want, instead of forward!!!
> Power---wow!!! No aftermarket stuff needed here!!!! The exhaust is
> almost as light as any aftermarket.
> I've trimmed a little weight off of mine here and there----even took
off
> the electric cooling fan. The offroad model doesn't even have one, so I
> figured they put in on there in case some dimwit would leave the engine
> running while for 25 minutes while waiting for a train. So far-----no
> problem!!!!!
>
> Mark Sampson
> didi@acworld.net
> 2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
> 1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
> 1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
> 1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
> does it all!!!!!!!
> All GPS equipped of course!!!
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) articles on DRZ 400
Date: 15 May 2000 18:51:57 -0700
Yep, I went to the local dealer and drooled on the vlus S model again today.
The salesman let me read the owners manual...I was curious about the digital
instrumentation's capabilities....WOW!! what a cool piece of gadgetry.
Every bike ridden in dual sport events needs one of these, so us dimwits
that miss a turn can dial the odometer back to get us back on the course
mileages.
Doug
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mark Sampson
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 3:21 AM
> The June issue of Dirt Bike has a good write up on the DRZ, DRZ E and E
> models. It was worth reading. Kind of makes me think about selling my DR
> (both of them) and buying the S model. The trick digital instrument
package
> would be a real asset on the events I attend.
>
> Doug
Yeah!!! I got one Doug and it is awesome!!! The digital instrument
includes 3 odometers------2 of them are ressetable. And you can make one of
them count down (backwards) if you want, instead of forward!!!
Power---wow!!! No aftermarket stuff needed here!!!! The exhaust is
almost as light as any aftermarket.
I've trimmed a little weight off of mine here and there----even took off
the electric cooling fan. The offroad model doesn't even have one, so I
figured they put in on there in case some dimwit would leave the engine
running while for 25 minutes while waiting for a train. So far-----no
problem!!!!!
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) 93 DR350S not reving above 7000 rpm
Date: 15 May 2000 19:01:12 -0700
Andrew, This brings back an unpleasant memory when your kick starter locked
up it may be because the counter shaft has broken and is tearing up your
engine inside I would pull the clutch cover and check it. This is one weak
spot on the DR especially if the kick start compression release ritual is
not followed the kick start Idler gear is on the right end of the
countershaft and it locks up when the shaft breaks. It breaks just inside
the right bearing and lets the shaft move back and forth inside causing much
shrapnel inside not to mention resistance. I don't want to be the bearer of
bad news but would encourage you to look inside ASAP. Would like to know
what you find.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Andrew Spooner
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 4:17 PM
I've got a 93' DR350S fitted with JK's airbox, a 34mm flatslide carb and big
bore CRD free flow exhuast, but the bike has decided not to rev over 7000
rpm. I changed a few weeks earlier the main jet for a larger one and the
bike was working great then it happened all of a sudden and I can't find out
what has gone wrong. It just cuts out, drops down a few revs and runs again
below 7000. The bike does not stall it just won't go above 7000 rpm.
Thinking back it might have happened after - one day the kick start seemed
to lock up on me (I thought I'd broken my leg as I tried to jick it over and
was hoping around for a good 5 minutes) but the bike did start after that
and runs well up to 7000 rpm although the compression seems down and now
I've got an oil leak from the kick start seal. (Any advice on how easy this
is to change please)
I've changed the main jet for a few different ones with no effect. I took it
to the local garage and they checked out the carb and also changed the jet a
few times and still no effect. The garage thinks its electrical. Does anyone
have any ideas what it could be and what I can do to fix it.
I've also got to change the clutch, anyone know a good place in the UK that
can give me a good price? Would be interested from guys in Europe how much a
replacement clutch cost where you live.
Thanks, Andrew
Epsom, UK
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jacksoncrew@webtv.net (Brett Jackson)
Subject: (dr) DRZ400SY dual sport
Date: 15 May 2000 22:26:56 -0500 (CDT)
Want to buy your stock head pipe off your DRZ400 or -E for my dual
sport.3mm bigger.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
Subject: (dr) 97 DR650 shock spring
Date: 15 May 2000 23:11:57 -0700
Hello again, all -
I had my DR lowered using the second rear shock mount, but this necessitated
taking up all of the preload adjustment. When I stuff my Happy Trails
aluminum panniers (these be deluxe units, guys!!), I be straddling a
lowrider :) Is there a longer spring available, or could I go with a
heavier unit?
Lisa
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) 93 DR350S not reving above 7000 rpm
Date: 16 May 2000 08:57:20 +0100
M&P do the friction plates at =A346 for the set, which I'm sure is a =
rip-off
compared to the rest of the world! 08705 703040, part numberRED83399. =
Have
fun!
Andy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Spooner [SMTP:Andrew@Jasma.demon.co.uk]
> Sent: 16 May 2000 00:17
> To: dr
> Subject: (dr) 93 DR350S not reving above 7000 rpm
>=20
>=20
> I've got a 93' DR350S fitted with JK's airbox, a 34mm flatslide carb =
and
> big
> bore CRD free flow exhuast, but the bike has decided not to rev over =
7000
> rpm. I changed a few weeks earlier the main jet for a larger one and =
the
> bike was working great then it happened all of a sudden and I can't =
find
> out
> what has gone wrong. It just cuts out, drops down a few revs and runs
> again
> below 7000. The bike does not stall it just won't go above 7000 rpm.
>=20
> Thinking back it might have happened after - one day the kick start =
seemed
> to lock up on me (I thought I'd broken my leg as I tried to jick it =
over
> and
> was hoping around for a good 5 minutes) but the bike did start after =
that
> and runs well up to 7000 rpm although the compression seems down and =
now
> I've got an oil leak from the kick start seal. (Any advice on how =
easy
> this
> is to change please)
>=20
> I've changed the main jet for a few different ones with no effect. I =
took
> it
> to the local garage and they checked out the carb and also changed =
the jet
> a
> few times and still no effect. The garage thinks its electrical. Does
> anyone
> have any ideas what it could be and what I can do to fix it.
>=20
> I've also got to change the clutch, anyone know a good place in the =
UK
> that
> can give me a good price? Would be interested from guys in Europe how =
much
> a
> replacement clutch cost where you live.
>=20
> Thanks, Andrew
> Epsom, UK
>=20
>=20
>=20
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) 97 DR650 shock spring
Date: 16 May 2000 05:43:22 -0700
Stay tuned Lisa, I think that I have found one.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Lisa Bierlmeier
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 11:12 PM
Hello again, all -
I had my DR lowered using the second rear shock mount, but this necessitated
taking up all of the preload adjustment. When I stuff my Happy Trails
aluminum panniers (these be deluxe units, guys!!), I be straddling a
lowrider :) Is there a longer spring available, or could I go with a
heavier unit?
Lisa
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Handlebar Weights on DR650
Date: 16 May 2000 12:21:01 EDT
BTW, the dr 350 has those weights in the handlebars as well. When I cut the
bars down to 30", I removed the weights. I don't think they do much for off
road riding anyway- only on the street for long rides as Jesse mentioned.
Scott
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Staskiewicz, Frank" <Frank.Staskiewicz@GTECH.COM>
Subject: (dr) Dr350 Dirt Jetting
Date: 16 May 2000 14:46:35 -0400
Hi,
Looking to see if Jesse can direct me in rejetting my 95 DR350 dirt model.
I opened the top of the airbox and put on a Cobra ISDN pipe. The bike would
not idle properly right after opening the airbox with stock jetting. I went
one size larger on the idle jet and the bike would start but fought to stay
running and any attemp to increase gas would make it die. I cleaned all
orifices in the carb and the slide looks okay and I left the needle alone. I
then went to the next size idle jet and I get the same results with little
effect from playing with the fuel/air screw. Now I'm not sure which way to
go. Is it getting too much fuel through the idle circuit?
Thanks for any help at all,
Frank
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From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Dr350 Dirt Jetting
Date: 16 May 2000 14:01:52 -0500
Hi Frank, I would suggest going back to your stock pilot and increase your
main jet to a 140 maybe 142.5. You will probably want to put the clip on
the neelde in the 4th groove down but I would try the main jet first. I had
alot of help from Jesse rejetting my 99 DR350X. I'm currently running with
the Vortex airbox but with the stock pipe. I cut the top out of my old
airbox and just put in a 140 main with stock exhaust(before the vortex) and
it ran great with no other carb adjustments. Good luck.
Chris
99 DR350X
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Staskiewicz, Frank [SMTP:Frank.Staskiewicz@GTECH.COM]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 1:47 PM
> To: 'dr@lists.xmission.com'
> Subject: (dr) Dr350 Dirt Jetting
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Looking to see if Jesse can direct me in rejetting my 95 DR350 dirt
> model.
> I opened the top of the airbox and put on a Cobra ISDN pipe. The bike
> would
> not idle properly right after opening the airbox with stock jetting. I
> went
> one size larger on the idle jet and the bike would start but fought to
> stay
> running and any attemp to increase gas would make it die. I cleaned all
> orifices in the carb and the slide looks okay and I left the needle alone.
> I
> then went to the next size idle jet and I get the same results with little
> effect from playing with the fuel/air screw. Now I'm not sure which way to
> go. Is it getting too much fuel through the idle circuit?
>
> Thanks for any help at all,
>
> Frank
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Dr350 Dirt Jetting
Date: 16 May 2000 12:09:45 -0700
Hi Frank, it makes you want to pull your hair out doesn't it. Well first I
would suggest putting the 37.5 pilot back in and then install a 140 main jet
you may even drop the clip on the needle to the fourth groove down and see
what happens. Let me know it works out. The Cobra is not jetting friendly I
have found but now that you have it we will give it our best shot.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Staskiewicz, Frank
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 11:47 AM
Hi,
Looking to see if Jesse can direct me in rejetting my 95 DR350 dirt model.
I opened the top of the airbox and put on a Cobra ISDN pipe. The bike would
not idle properly right after opening the airbox with stock jetting. I went
one size larger on the idle jet and the bike would start but fought to stay
running and any attemp to increase gas would make it die. I cleaned all
orifices in the carb and the slide looks okay and I left the needle alone. I
then went to the next size idle jet and I get the same results with little
effect from playing with the fuel/air screw. Now I'm not sure which way to
go. Is it getting too much fuel through the idle circuit?
Thanks for any help at all,
Frank
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jkraft1151@cs.com
Subject: (dr) dr350se carb problem
Date: 16 May 2000 17:52:26 EDT
I have a question for you Jesse I have a 96 dr350se with a few mods the
problem is that when I rev my bike or on a decent down a hill when I have the
clutch pulled in the RPM's take a while to come down even if I am standing
still the RPM doesn't return to normal right away it's not the throtle
because I already replaced the cables cleaned the carb and still no change ,
The only thing that looks out of the ordinary is the plastic piece that goes
on the needle under the clip seems to fit snug it still can move just not
freely I have already replaced the needle with the jxneedle and spring
Jason
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Dr350 Dirt Jetting
Date: 16 May 2000 19:00:30 EDT
Chris,
Read your note about jetting and airbox mods and wanted to ask if you see a
big improvement in performance with the Vortex airbox over the stock airbox
with top cut open. I have a 94 DR dirt version with the top open and a
Supertrapp muffler. Have a White Bros. header pipe on order but have
wondered if the Vortex box is worth the money they ask for?
Craig K
Colorado Springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ron Smith" <zx6e@mindspring.com>
Subject: (dr) DR650 questions
Date: 16 May 2000 20:33:21 -0500
I've read the posts about the ISD2 pipe (by Kerker??) for the '96 and up
650's. Dennis Kirk catalogue lists a pipe for the '96-'98 DR650SE at a price
of $204. My question is, will the same pipe fit the '00 DR? Is there another
source with a better price?
Thanks,
Ron
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Dr350 Dirt Jetting
Date: 16 May 2000 20:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
:
it makes you want to pull your hair out
> doesn't it. .
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
And some teeth along with it arrrggg!!!!
__________________________________________________
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From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Dr350 Dirt Jetting
Date: 16 May 2000 20:17:35 -0700 (PDT)
--- Cklppnbrg@aol.com wrote:
> Chris,
>
> Read your note about jetting and airbox mods and
> wanted to ask if you see a
> big improvement in performance with the Vortex
> airbox over the stock airbox
> with top cut open> wondered if the Vortex box is
worth the money they
> ask for?
>
> Craig K
> Colorado Springs, CO
>
> -
> Craig the vortex airbox is a work of art.It will
indeed outperform a stock airbox with the top cut
open.You see the problem with the stock box is the
design itself.It simply is not going to flow like a
vortex no matter what you do to it.The vortex will
give your motor more air than it will ever need even
with the big bore 435 kit in it.In my opinion it is
the best money I have yet spent on my DR.No single mod
for the money will give you the performance jump that
the vortex does.I have no regrets on the purchase.A
header pipe will only compliment the set up.John in NY
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From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) dr350se carb problem
Date: 16 May 2000 20:17:11 -0700
Hi Jason this needle has a plastic step washer on the top and the small
plastic washer on the bottom below the clip these all rest inside the slide
which is held in place by the spring. The slide and needle all move together
so there is no problem with this little washer you are referring to in being
snug on the needle. Your cable does not control the slide, vacuum does when
you are going down hill with the throttle closed a lot of vacuum is being
created in the intake tract which could be holding the slide up slightly. I
would be very careful about using carb cleaner on the carb the aluminum
parts are ok but the rubber parts will swell out of proportion and not fit
if they come in contact with carb spray. one thing you may do is check the
o'ring around the seat portion of the needle and seat it gets hard and some
times cracked over time and not seal properly and will let excess fuel into
the bowl causing fast idle or even flooding.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jkraft1151@cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 2:52 PM
I have a question for you Jesse I have a 96 dr350se with a few mods the
problem is that when I rev my bike or on a decent down a hill when I have
the
clutch pulled in the RPM's take a while to come down even if I am standing
still the RPM doesn't return to normal right away it's not the throtle
because I already replaced the cables cleaned the carb and still no change ,
The only thing that looks out of the ordinary is the plastic piece that goes
on the needle under the clip seems to fit snug it still can move just not
freely I have already replaced the needle with the jxneedle and spring
Jason
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650 questions
Date: 16 May 2000 22:26:51 -0500
Ron,
Talk to Jesse. jesse@rvi.net
I got my IDS (Supertrapp) from him. If you want to see a picture of
mine, e-mail me off list and I will send you a jpeg.
JB
>>> "Ron Smith" <zx6e@mindspring.com> 05/16/00 08:33PM >>>
I've read the posts about the ISD2 pipe (by Kerker??) for the '96 and
up
650's. Dennis Kirk catalogue lists a pipe for the '96-'98 DR650SE at a
price
of $204. My question is, will the same pipe fit the '00 DR? Is there
another
source with a better price?
Thanks,
Ron
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Iain Wilson <iain.wilson5@virgin.net>
Subject: (dr) cleaning air filter
Date: 17 May 2000 07:14:11 +0100
Hi,
In the handbook it says to clean air filter with cleaning fluid. Which
is recommended please? How much oil to put on the filter after this?
Thanks,
Iain
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 16 May 2000 23:01:34 -0700
[Chris]
> > > Speaking of mufflers, does anyone have experience with the Big Gun
> system?
[arne]
> > I do.
[Mark Sampson]
> And sadly----as much as I love the sound of a aftermarket exhaust on
> a four stroke------you will be contributing to the demise of offroad
riding.
<<<snip>>>
>I hate it------but it's the fact!!!
Perhaps where you live and ride this is the case. I empathise. But your
situation doesn't really apply to me.
Where I live and choose to ride in BC, it simply hasn't been an issue. For
the most part there hasn't been anyone close enough to even hear our bikes.
If it were an issue I would probably have a quieter system.
BTW... I'm a big guy and every bit of extra, usable power helps make the
bike a better ride. I definitely noticed a difference with the switch. My
bike now sounds like... well, a "bike"... as opposed to the VWesque chirp
that the stock exhaust had developed.
Arne
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From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 16 May 2000 23:06:48 -0700
> Mark and List,
> I'll second the motion. You are so right, the little extra gain is not
> worth pissing off those who wish we weren't there in the first place.
Wayne, I agree with you - in principle - but I could ride my bike, with my
Big Gun exhaust, past a group of "others" and NOT piss them off, just as
easily as I could ride a STOCK KLR past the same group and DO piss them off.
It's all in your approach and attitude as you pass.
Cheers,
Arne
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From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 17 May 2000 07:09:07 -0000
> > And sadly----as much as I love the sound of a aftermarket exhaust on
> > a four stroke------you will be contributing to the demise of offroad
> riding.
> <<<snip>>>
> >I hate it------but it's the fact!!!
>
> Perhaps where you live and ride this is the case. I empathise. But your
> situation doesn't really apply to me.
>
> Where I live and choose to ride in BC, it simply hasn't been an issue.
For
> the most part there hasn't been anyone close enough to even hear our
bikes.
> If it were an issue I would probably have a quieter system.
>
> BTW... I'm a big guy and every bit of extra, usable power helps make the
> bike a better ride. I definitely noticed a difference with the switch.
My
> bike now sounds like... well, a "bike"... as opposed to the VWesque chirp
> that the stock exhaust had developed.
This no bull Arne---as I was reading you e-mail (it is very early in
the morning here) my whole house was rattled by a the same guy (every
morning) on his Harley with straight pipes. He irritates the hell out of
everybody down my road in the country every morning. But will probably never
know it. He probably thinks it sounds great to all of us!!!!!
One of the big bike magazines did a poll very recently, and asked random
citizens what noises of the world bothered them the worse--------motorcylces
was number one. So there you have it---the fact-----not an opinion.
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) cleaning air filter
Date: 17 May 2000 06:25:57 -0700
Hi Iain, After removing the support cage I recommend a stoddard solvent
first to remove the oil then let it completely dry, then use a regular dish
detergent to remove the dirt and let it completely dry, then you spray or
work a good foam filter oil into it once it is saturated you gently squeeze
out the residual oil I take a papertowl at the last and roll it up inside
the towel to get the last drips out. now you can reassemble the support cage
and reinstall it. now that you see what a pain it is its a good idea to
have a spare in a baggie ready to go when this needs to be done.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Iain Wilson
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 11:14 PM
Hi,
In the handbook it says to clean air filter with cleaning fluid. Which
is recommended please? How much oil to put on the filter after this?
Thanks,
Iain
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Richard Fantini" <rich@noreast.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) cleaning air filter
Date: 17 May 2000 09:42:36 -0400
A lot of factory teams use dawn liquid and water to clean their filters, so
I've always used that. After you've washed and rinsed the filter, let it
dry completely. Pour enough filter oil into a pan and completely coat the
filter (you'll definitely want to use a set of vinyl or latex gloves for
this, it's quite messy). After you've totally coated the filter, squeeze
out as much of the filter oil as you can, and let the filter sit for a
couple hours. This is important, as the filter oil has carrier that must
evaporate before it's used, otherwise your bikes going to have a hard time
breathing. That's it...
-Rich
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 2:14 AM
> Hi,
>
> In the handbook it says to clean air filter with cleaning fluid. Which
> is recommended please? How much oil to put on the filter after this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Iain
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 17 May 2000 11:01:20 -0700
> > > And sadly----as much as I love the sound of a aftermarket exhaust on
> > > a four stroke------you will be contributing to the demise of offroad
> > riding.
> > Perhaps where you live and ride this is the case. I empathise. But
your
> > situation doesn't really apply to me.
> > Where I live and choose to ride in BC, it simply hasn't been an issue.
> This no bull Arne---as I was reading you e-mail (it is very early
in
> the morning here) my whole house was rattled by a the same guy (every
> morning) on his Harley with straight pipes. He irritates the hell out of
> everybody down my road in the country every morning. But will probably
never
> know it. He probably thinks it sounds great to all of us!!!!!
Sure he knows it... He just doesn't give a rat's-ass. Nice example, but you
were talking "off-road" here... not "noisy Harley on your street". Apples
and oranges my friend. What does a noisy Harley on your "street" have to do
with me riding "off-road" on abandoned - unpopulated - back-woods logging
roads - in the mountains of British Columbia? According to your "factual
poll-based" theory, that noisy Harley on your street is contributing to the
demise of off-road riding.
Like I said in response to Wayne's post... attitude and presentation are
everything. I simply love the sound of a nicely built big-block rumbling by
my house on a sunny afternoon. Get's my attention - I pause what I'm
doing - admire the car - etc... But if that same car were using the rural
street in front of my place for time-trials, my opinion would be totally
different. Same car - different attitude. Different attitude = different
response from the public.
Last year in Moab, I never got one single negative response from any of the
cyclists I saw. I spoke to some - waved at all - and they waved back. I
let them see the "person" on the bike rather than just the bike itself. I
find it much the same at work. I work in a uniform and serve the public.
They don't always see it this way. And more often than not, they don't see
the person at all... just the uniform. My actions dictate whether this
"personification of me" continues, or whether they see "me" as a person
doing a job.
Having said this... Where "I" ride locally, I can have any attitude I want,
as there are no people around to care. If there were, I would probably not
have the loud exhaust. You can choose to continue to not believe me if you
like. I'm just telling you the way it is.
Cheers,
Arne
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From: "Benjamin Lee" <benmlee@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) cleaning air filter
Date: 17 May 2000 13:32:14 PDT
>From: "Richard Fantini" <rich@noreast.com>
>Pour enough filter oil into a pan and completely coat the
>filter (you'll definitely want to use a set of vinyl or latex gloves for
>this, it's quite messy).
What I do is to put the filter in a large zip lock plastic bag and pour
filter oil into the bag. Work the oil into the filter using the bag. This
saves oil and is less messy.
Ben Lee
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Richard Fantini" <rich@noreast.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) cleaning air filter
Date: 17 May 2000 16:56:20 -0400
I tried that, but then where do you squeeze the filter out? Dunno... every
time I use that method I make more of a mess, heh.
-Rich
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 4:32 PM
> >From: "Richard Fantini" <rich@noreast.com>
> >Pour enough filter oil into a pan and completely coat the
> >filter (you'll definitely want to use a set of vinyl or latex gloves for
> >this, it's quite messy).
>
> What I do is to put the filter in a large zip lock plastic bag and pour
> filter oil into the bag. Work the oil into the filter using the bag.
This
> saves oil and is less messy.
> Ben Lee
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From: "Shayne Seefeldt" <seefeldt@calgaryjiujitsu.com>
Subject: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 17 May 2000 14:58:24 -0600
Hello All,
The loud muffler business is interesting, and I think it might be more of an
issue of where you live. Like Arne I ride in areas where there is either no
one around (logging roads where my bike is quieter than the logging trucks
and workers) or an area full of two-strokes whining and zinging everywhere.
That brings up another item; spark arrestors. Where I live they are
recommended but not required (as seen by the sheer volume of two stroke
bikes in off road areas), but this is obviously not the way it is in the
U.S. If you do not need a spark arrestor than you have more choices for
aftermarket exhaust.
From what I know, the Big Gun system is the only "complete" system for a KLR
(correct me if I'm wrong). If someone wants to increase the performance of
their bike, and it just happens to be loud, than that is their choice. If
they drive irresponsibly than they can reap the rewards that follows. If you
say "That loud noisy bike makes all of us look bad" than you are using the
same logic as those that will judge cyclists based on one individual.
As for power gains with an aftermarket exhoust, I am no expert but "seat of
the pants" with my Two Brothers Racing pipe is great. I think the
performance reward is great. I am not the loudest bike off road (including
two and four strokes) nor the loudest on the street, and I do not think it
is as loud as Arne's Big Gun.
Now, rather than asking me to never join a dual sport ride (as Wayne did
earlier) or been negative about any persons exhaust we could all just be
curious about how it performs or other technical items. If Arne had no
complaints in Moab than it can't possibly be offensive (or is everybody
scared of Canadians, must be our military). It seems that the majority of
people seem to go with a SuperTrapp exhaust, perhaps people trying other
systems will be good the dual sport community as a whole. More info and more
choices. I know Kurt had mentioned a long time ago he was hoping to test the
Two Brothers System for DSN. I hope he succeeds.
Once again, if you believe that a loud mufflers is detrimental to the
motorcycle community than that is your opinion. But everybody can make their
own choice. I'm sure that some body might start to take offense with this
post, but none is intended. If I ever meet Wayne I'll gladly go on a dual
sport ride with him and slip on my stock exhaust, it's that simple.
Most importantly, have fun!!
Regards,
Shayne.
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/seefeldt/dr/index.html
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Benjamin Lee" <benmlee@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 17 May 2000 16:26:34 PDT
>From: "Shayne Seefeldt" <seefeldt@calgaryjiujitsu.com>
>If someone wants to increase the performance of
>their bike, and it just happens to be loud, than that is their choice. If
>they drive irresponsibly than they can reap the rewards that follows. If
>you
>say "That loud noisy bike makes all of us look bad" than you are using the
>same logic as those that will judge cyclists based on one individual.
>
It is unfortunate, but a few people can mess it up for the mass. Just like
in 4wheeling. Only a few people go out and destroy the land, but everyone
suffer with land closure. Politicians and the public are not going to
seperate out the good from the bad. They are going to treat us as a whole.
Don't know where you ride, but when I was riding in LA Angeles forest, and
turn off my engine, I can hear 2stroke from a OHV area a good 20-30 miles
away. People that you don't may already have formed a bad impression. The
image of a noisy bike is a reckless dude on a bike ready to run over anyone
in their way.
Ben Lee
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: (dr) All jets are not created equel
Date: 17 May 2000 17:00:42 -0700 (PDT)
I have learned an important lesson and want to share
it with you guys.In trying to rejet carb I have
discovered that there are two different types of jets
made for the Mikuni carb.I had a 150 of one type that
was larger than a 155 of another.The original factory
jet has a stamped R with a square next to it.The ones
I got have RD clearly stamped in it.These are two
different manufacturers and the sizes do not match.The
original R with the square seem to run larger than the
RD.My bike was lean with the 150 so I went what I
thought was up to a 155 that was actually smaller than
the 150 and wasted time.I noticed in the Chapperal
catalogue that they sell the RD(smaller)jets.Pay
attention to the jets you guys get the dealer was of
course clueless to this fact.John in N.Y.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Coleman, Patrick" <PDCOLEMA@southernco.com>
Subject: (dr) No DR Content - Super Motard a.k.a. Super TT
Date: 18 May 2000 07:51:42 -0500
Several people have inquired about Super Motard, apparently re-named SuperTT
in the U.S. Someone wanted to know if there was any organized racing in this
country. This web site http://www.supertt.com/ has more info, including some
race scheduling. It also has some information about setting up bikes for
SuperTT, and a classified section for sales and trades. Not many DRs there,
but lots of XR stuff.
> .
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
Subject: (dr) Wanted: DRZ400S rear foot pegs
Date: 18 May 2000 09:02:51 -0400
I would like to buy the rear foot pegs from a DRZ400S. Anyone who has bought
one and has decided to ditch them please let me know. I am willing to trade
my engine guards from the "E" model.
Thanks
Mike
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ric Aruffo" <ric.aruffo@studiointeractive.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 18 May 2000 09:01:46 -0500
I doubt VERY much you can hear a 2-stroke 20 - 30 miles away. I agree with
Shayne here that saying because "one person has a loud bike, it makes the
rest of us look bad" is a little ridiculous. Obviously you don't ride much
dirt because if you did you would be accustomed to the noise that 2-strokes
make.
I have an FMF Mega4 exhaust on my '95 DR350 and I like riding with the discs
off because the power and the noise are incredible. I love that sound! And
most other people like it too, because all the other 4 & 2-strokes want to
know what type of pipe I have and wish they could get that noise and power.
That's not to say that if I ride in an event where a noise restriction is
required then I would comply without hesitation.
All this said, we in Texas are very fortunate to have private land to ride
on so we are not resticted by anyone. If I trail ride at night, or ride in a
sponsored event, I will put the discs back on.
Ric
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Benjamin Lee
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 6:27 PM
>From: "Shayne Seefeldt" <seefeldt@calgaryjiujitsu.com>
>If someone wants to increase the performance of
>their bike, and it just happens to be loud, than that is their choice. If
>they drive irresponsibly than they can reap the rewards that follows. If
>you
>say "That loud noisy bike makes all of us look bad" than you are using the
>same logic as those that will judge cyclists based on one individual.
>
It is unfortunate, but a few people can mess it up for the mass. Just like
in 4wheeling. Only a few people go out and destroy the land, but everyone
suffer with land closure. Politicians and the public are not going to
seperate out the good from the bad. They are going to treat us as a whole.
Don't know where you ride, but when I was riding in LA Angeles forest, and
turn off my engine, I can hear 2stroke from a OHV area a good 20-30 miles
away. People that you don't may already have formed a bad impression. The
image of a noisy bike is a reckless dude on a bike ready to run over anyone
in their way.
Ben Lee
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sims" <msims@nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 18 May 2000 11:37:02 -0400
Hi Chris,
I have a '98 DR350SE that I bought new in April of '99. A couple
of months later I put on the vortex airbox, the dirt (pumper) carb,
and a Big Gun exhaust (silencer and headpipe) with quiet core
and spark arrestor. I also have the race core. It all cost $400.
In November, I took the engine out and had White Bros 441cc and
cam installed, and I had the head ported by Pro-Action.
When I re-installed the engine, I put the stock exhaust back on
because I decided that I wanted to be quiet - and I figured that
there should still be plenty of power. I was right.
If you're interested in buying my Big Gun, let me know, I'm
willing to let it go for $150 and I'll pay shipping in 48 states.
Regards...Mark
Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin wrote:
>
> Speaking of mufflers, does anyone have experience with the Big Gun
> system?
>
> Chris
>
> -
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "SWAMPY!" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: (dr) Florida Dual Sport Ride
Date: 18 May 2000 12:01:55 -0400
Heya Gang!
Check Out This Upcoming Ride In Florida!
http://www.geocities.com/mrktm/creekflyer.html
Swampy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: (dr) Seat foam
Date: 18 May 2000 14:45:31 -0700 (PDT)
Anyone out there replaced the seat cover and foam on
the DRSE?I do not like the way it dips right at the
point it travels up the tank.Does the dirt only DR
come with a different seat?My buddys XR400 has a nice
riding position I think If I can lose that dip(this is
where I sit when in the woods)I will be higher and
more "on top"of the bike.Thanks john in n.y.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jkraft1151@cs.com
Subject: (dr) gas tanks
Date: 18 May 2000 21:59:40 EDT
Jesse,
I was wondering if a DR250s gas tank would fit my dr350se?
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From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) gas tanks
Date: 18 May 2000 22:02:26 -0700
I believe that they are the same, but to be safe a quick call to the Suzuki
dealer and check the part numbers would be a wise move.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jkraft1151@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 7:00 PM
Jesse,
I was wondering if a DR250s gas tank would fit my dr350se?
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From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Seat foam
Date: 19 May 2000 07:27:35 -0500
Hi John, I would give Jesse a call. He got me a nice CEET seat cover and 1"
inch taller seat foam for my DR. It almost took the dip out completely and
lets you move up on the tank much easier.
Chris
99 DR350X
> -----Original Message-----
> From: john miller [SMTP:weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 4:46 PM
> To: DR list
> Subject: (dr) Seat foam
>
> Anyone out there replaced the seat cover and foam on
> the DRSE?I do not like the way it dips right at the
> point it travels up the tank.Does the dirt only DR
> come with a different seat?My buddys XR400 has a nice
> riding position I think If I can lose that dip(this is
> where I sit when in the woods)I will be higher and
> more "on top"of the bike.Thanks john in n.y.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com/
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) Clutch plates and prices
Date: 19 May 2000 14:07:36 +0100
A small comment for UK folk but may apply also to other places;
M&P in the UK are a large mail order company with a very comprehensive
catalogue and regional counter service. They are great for stuff like =
tires,
chains, sprockets and brake pads but price other things very cleverly.=20
For example, spark plugs are more than my local dealers so I wonder if =
some
bits that you "might as well have one of those as well please" are over
priced and you probably wouldn't notice.
Also for my KLX - they had cam chains on special offer - same price as
Kawasaki originals !
And KLX clutch plates (hence the link), a few quid more expensive than
Kawasaki originals....
So it always pays to have a quick check around. Suzuki parts do seem =
quite
expensive though generally, and crap availability compared to the big
green's next day service.=20
Its annoying that Suzuki make such good bikes.....
Steve
> ----------
> From: andy.doyle@bt.com[SMTP:andy.doyle@bt.com]
> Reply To: andy.doyle@bt.com
> Sent: 16 May 2000 08:57
> To: Andrew@Jasma.demon.co.uk; dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: RE: (dr) 93 DR350S not reving above 7000 rpm
>=20
> M&P do the friction plates at =A346 for the set, which I'm sure is a =
rip-off
> compared to the rest of the world! 08705 703040, part =
numberRED83399.
> Have
> fun!
>=20
> Andy
>=20
>=20
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Seat foam
Date: 19 May 2000 10:37:52 EDT
I have found that sitting too far forward on the DR causes me trouble. Often
I move WAAAAY back on the seat to keep the front from washing out. This is
true when I go through deep sand, mud holes and generally any squishy
substance. Also a must for crossing logs and other obstacles. As a matter of
fact, I was wondering if there is an aftermarket pad to go on the rear fender
so that when I move that far back my butt doesn't get hammered by that bar on
the fender ;)
Scott
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Alvaro Sanchez" <euroc.cia@codetel.net.do>
Subject: (dr) RV: dr-xr-wr
Date: 15 May 2000 14:01:00 -0400
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Alvaro
Enviado el: Monday, May 15, 2000 9:55 AM
Para: On
Asunto: dr-xr-wr
Hello everybody, this is the first time i write to the list although i=B4=
ve
been reading it for several months. Congratulations for this list. Ok, i =
am
the proud owner of a dr350 96se in Dominican Republic (which means no spa=
res
at all). I am thinking of trading it for a : new dr, xr or wr. I would li=
ke
to hear you opinions. I love dual sport, i drive on and off and i see the
new models some kind of radical. Thanks all, and if you came over here le=
me
know.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Ralston" <bralsto@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Seat foam
Date: 19 May 2000 09:06:04 -0700
John,
Baja Products sells a seat especially designed for the DR. It is higher,
shaped better, and longer.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 2:45 PM
> Anyone out there replaced the seat cover and foam on
> the DRSE?I do not like the way it dips right at the
> point it travels up the tank.Does the dirt only DR
> come with a different seat?My buddys XR400 has a nice
> riding position I think If I can lose that dip(this is
> where I sit when in the woods)I will be higher and
> more "on top"of the bike.Thanks john in n.y.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com/
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Seat foam
Date: 19 May 2000 09:01:34 -0700
Hi Scott The Baja Designs extended seat kit sounds like just what you want
White Bros is handling them it is a kit that includes a new cover foam
extension and seat base that adds to the stock seat. It extends back to the
metal grab bar and is listed at $145.00
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of USSergeant@aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 7:38 AM
I have found that sitting too far forward on the DR causes me trouble. Often
I move WAAAAY back on the seat to keep the front from washing out. This is
true when I go through deep sand, mud holes and generally any squishy
substance. Also a must for crossing logs and other obstacles. As a matter of
fact, I was wondering if there is an aftermarket pad to go on the rear
fender
so that when I move that far back my butt doesn't get hammered by that bar
on
the fender ;)
Scott
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Seat foam
Date: 19 May 2000 14:41:50 EDT
From everyone's comments, I am wondering if anyone ever stands up on their
footpegs while riding in heavy terrain. Going over rocks, logs and deep
whoop-de-dos is very difficult if you try to stay seated, but much easier if
one learns to stand up and move yourself to keep the bike balanced. As far
as where I sit on the seat when seated, it is much like when I stand. I
position myself where I need to be to keep the bike balanced. Going uphill,
I may slide myself forward on the seat to help keep the front tire down,
going downhill I would slide rearward to keep from going over the handlebars.
Standing on the pegs, I do the same and have more freedom of movement to
move forward and aft, using my body weight to shift the bikes center of
gravity in order to keep both wheels on the ground. Also, standing on the
pegs in rough terrain keeps the bike's center f gravity lower and closer to
the ground since body weight is concentrated on the pegs and not on the seat.
Believe it or not you have better control of the bike if you keep your feet
on the pegs and are not trying to paddle your way through the rough stuff.
Sometimes you have too, but usually the only time I ma on the seat is when
the trail is smooth and few if any bumps. Standing through the rough stuff
also makes the ride more comfortable as I am not getting bounced around with
every bump and also means I can ride faster ... faster ... faster!
Hope this is helpful and I have not insulted anyone's intelligence!
Craig K DR350
Colorado Springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) RV: dr-xr-wr
Date: 19 May 2000 14:44:20 EDT
Alvaro,
Welcome to the list! I just bought a DR350 this past winter myself and am
finding websites for spare parts and accessories. Are you able to do the
same from the Dominican Republic? It may be your best source for spares
whatever you ride.
Craig K
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jim Smith <jskydive@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) RV: dr-xr-wr
Date: 19 May 2000 13:11:31 -0700
Hello Alvaro,
I just bought a 2000 DR650SE dual-sport and love it. It works perfect for
what I wanted to use it for which is half highway use and half dirt
road/forest trail use.
It has enough power go 100 mph on the highway, is comfortable enough to
spend several hours riding, has a 190 mile gas tank range and will perform
adequately on dirt roads with 10 inches of suspension travel front and rear=
.
In my opinion, it is too heavy (324 lbs dry) for strictly off-road use or
for off-road competiton. If you weigh more than 180 lbs the rear shock
spring will probably be too soft for rough terrain.
If I were going to ride mostly off-road, I would have bought the DRZ400,
although I would have had to get a larger gas tank.
To be fair, I have not ridden the XR or WR models.
Jim
> From: "Alvaro Sanchez" <euroc.cia@codetel.net.do>
> Reply-To: "Alvaro Sanchez" <euroc.cia@codetel.net.do>
> Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 14:01:00 -0400
> To: <dr@lists.xmission.com>
> Subject: (dr) RV: dr-xr-wr
>=20
> Hello everybody, this is the first time i write to the list although i=B4ve
> been reading it for several months. Congratulations for this list. Ok, i =
am
> the proud owner of a dr350 96se in Dominican Republic (which means no spa=
res
> at all). I am thinking of trading it for a : new dr, xr or wr. I would li=
ke
> to hear you opinions. I love dual sport, i drive on and off and i see the
> new models some kind of radical. Thanks all, and if you came over here le=
me
> know.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) FW: Tires for sale
Date: 19 May 2000 14:39:42 -0600
Please respond to Mike directly:
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 7:03 AM
Kurt,
How are you doing? I'm still pretty busy. Been getting more into street
bikes, since that is what I own at the moment. How is the DR list doing, is
it still growing? I have some tires for sale and was wondering if you could
post them on the DR list for me. Thanks.
I have 2 IRC GP-1 Dual-Sport for sale. The front is a 3.00-21 and the rear
is a 4.10-18. Both tires have never been on a rim and are still in like new
condition. I am asking $30 + shipping for one or both of them. They should
fit a DR350-200. If you are interested or have questions you can contact me
at brock@gopolaris.com
Best,
Mike Brock
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Seat foam
Date: 19 May 2000 16:57:51 EDT
Sean,
Haha, Thanks for comments I agree with what you had to say. Good reminders
for me also as I am getting back into this sport after a 15 to 20 hiatus ...
me, an expert? Certainly not. Just have a friend or two that want to trail
ride like they street ride and sometimes it works and sometimes it don't.
Craig K
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: DR350 mufflers
Date: 19 May 2000 15:26:00 -0700
Shayne,
Will we meet at Moab? I'll be there, and be glad to go on a ride with
you, loud pipes or not. Even loud pipes can be kept relatively quiet, I
think it's the attitude thing that Arne mentioned. But if we ride
together, all I'll ask is that you stay behind me ;o)>.
And Arne, at 250#, I could use that extra power also, but I find other
ways to get it. I agree that the sound can be music to some ears, but
I've already had enough ear damage, can't afford any more.
Wayne
--
********************************************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
http://www.mikthebik.com/
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
MB-5 S-65 S-90 CT-90 SS-125 CA-95 CL-160 CB-200 TL-250 CB77 CL77 CA77
CB350-4 CB400F CB500-4 B-550F CB750F GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 (for sale) Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Comobu@aol.com
Subject: (dr) A silver DRZ??
Date: 19 May 2000 20:04:34 EDT
Did I hear the new DRZ also comes in silver? I was once starryeyed in love
with a Yamaha DT250 2 stroke in silver... 78 or 79?
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) A silver DRZ??
Date: 19 May 2000 20:27:52 -0000
> Did I hear the new DRZ also comes in silver? I was once starryeyed in
love
> with a Yamaha DT250 2 stroke in silver... 78 or 79?
>
> Guy
Don't think so Guy!!!!! I'm in the Suzuki shop all the time and know
the dealer very well---all we talk about are the new DR's. And we haven't
heard or seen anything about a silver one.
The blue one's are the fastest!!! :)
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650 questions
Date: 20 May 2000 06:44:02 -0600
> I've read the posts about the ISD2 pipe (by Kerker??) for the '96 and up
> 650's. Dennis Kirk catalogue lists a pipe for the '96-'98 DR650SE at a
price
> of $204. My question is, will the same pipe fit the '00 DR? Is there
another
> source with a better price?
the ISD2 pipe is by SuperTrapp and yes it will fit the '00. Can't help you
with price. SuperTrapp's are famous for occasional fit problems and for that
reason I'd buy it from one of our list suppliers like Jesse, Al, or Fred.
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Sprockets
Date: 20 May 2000 14:05:46 EDT
Question: I will be in need of replacing my rear sprocket soon and am
wondering what everyone else uses, as in, material, brand. Seems to be a
variety of sprockets out there and want to know what material/manufacturer
has the best wear for the money.
The rear sprocket on my DR350 now is a 48T which I think means it is
after-market, and I have found it is not perfectly round, or the bore that
fits the rear wheel is off center. This can be seen whenever doing chain
maintenance as the chain will be tighter with the wheel in one position and
180 degrees of rotation later it is loose.
So quality is also of importance in judging the best value. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Craig K DR350
Colorado Springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wez" <Wesleyjohn@totalise.co.uk>
Subject: (dr) Dog Bones
Date: 20 May 2000 19:22:22 +0100
A while a go I posted a message, asking about the dog bones, I have now
found out what thay are made of but befor I start to make a set I would like
to know a few things first.
1, Is there any heat treatment needed.
2, If I wont to jack-up the rear end much shorter shall I make them.
I think that on the originals thay are increased by about an inch or so, any
information would be most greatfull. As I would not like to experiment with
the lenght, as I would just like to bolt it on.
Wez
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Sprockets
Date: 21 May 2000 16:18:01 -0700
Steel sprockets are more durable than aluminum.
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 11:06 AM
Question: I will be in need of replacing my rear sprocket soon and am
wondering what everyone else uses, as in, material, brand. Seems to be a
variety of sprockets out there and want to know what material/manufacturer
has the best wear for the money.
The rear sprocket on my DR350 now is a 48T which I think means it is
after-market, and I have found it is not perfectly round, or the bore that
fits the rear wheel is off center. This can be seen whenever doing chain
maintenance as the chain will be tighter with the wheel in one position and
180 degrees of rotation later it is loose.
So quality is also of importance in judging the best value. Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Craig K DR350
Colorado Springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: (dr) for sale: sprocket
Date: 21 May 2000 16:17:58 -0700
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFC340.21028600
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have a like new 47 tooth steel sprocket for sale, it fits a 94-95 350SE,
or any 250/350 that has the rear wheel with the two piece hub that uses the
little rubber cushion shock absorbers.
It won't fit the one piece hub because the center hole is smaller on the one
piece hub. '96 and later SE's uses the one piece style hub.
Email me off list if your are interested.
Doug
94 DR 350 SE (the old pig)
97 DR 350 SE (the replacement)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Gregory D. Pink" <gpink@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: (dr) New to DRs
Date: 21 May 2000 19:36:59 -0400
Howdy. I just bought a "new" 1990 DR650 and want to start outfitting it for
Central and South America. Who should I look for to start buying parts like
panniers and a larger tank? Later.....
BOOF, IBMWR, IBA, SoD, MOA, RA, Rolling Broccoli Rider
Reindeer Rider - Rudolph
www.pinkman.org
*********************pink_g@popmail.firn.edu***********************
** R1100RTL-->Descartes, The Continent Killer **
** Gregory Pink-->Pinkman Tampa, Florida **
***** "Give me ambiguity or give me something else." ******
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) New to DRs
Date: 21 May 2000 20:13:33 -0600
> Howdy. I just bought a "new" 1990 DR650 and want to start outfitting it
for
> Central and South America. Who should I look for to start buying parts
like
> panniers and a larger tank? Later.....
Aerostich for the panniers....Acerbis for the tank....
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Sprockets
Date: 21 May 2000 19:23:18 -0700
HI Craig, your sprocket may be OK and the chain may be stretched in one
place and be tight in one place and loose in another. This is from personal
experience on a 750 Honda I found out later much later that my son was
pulling wheelies in the high school parking lot this will stretch a chain in
specific areas.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Doug B
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 4:18 PM
Steel sprockets are more durable than aluminum.
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 11:06 AM
Question: I will be in need of replacing my rear sprocket soon and am
wondering what everyone else uses, as in, material, brand. Seems to be a
variety of sprockets out there and want to know what material/manufacturer
has the best wear for the money.
The rear sprocket on my DR350 now is a 48T which I think means it is
after-market, and I have found it is not perfectly round, or the bore that
fits the rear wheel is off center. This can be seen whenever doing chain
maintenance as the chain will be tighter with the wheel in one position and
180 degrees of rotation later it is loose.
So quality is also of importance in judging the best value. Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Craig K DR350
Colorado Springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) A silver DRZ??
Date: 22 May 2000 08:51:16 +0100
Well, I must point out that not only have I seen pictures of a silver and
black DRZ-S, but I have also seen a REAL one at a local dealer. And it
looked very nice indeed.
This is in the UK by the way.
Now, I'm not sure what main jet was fitted......I think it had the whole
thing removed and the carb drilled out with a 10mm bit. Goes like stink
apparently but only does 5 mpg.
Sorry
Steve
> ----------
> From: Comobu@aol.com[SMTP:Comobu@aol.com]
> Reply To: Comobu@aol.com
> Sent: 20 May 2000 01:04
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) A silver DRZ??
>
> Did I hear the new DRZ also comes in silver? I was once starryeyed in
> love
> with a Yamaha DT250 2 stroke in silver... 78 or 79?
>
> Guy
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin" <beauchemin@telus.net>
Subject: (dr) spongy front brake solved
Date: 22 May 2000 11:56:08 -0700
In case anyone is interested, I have just installed a Russell stainless
front brake line, purchased from Thumper Racing for $45. It has eliminated
the spongy feel, and the brake feel & action is much improved.
Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin" <beauchemin@telus.net>
Subject: (dr) popping on deceleration
Date: 22 May 2000 12:09:40 -0700
I finally installed the JX needle & spring, cut open the airbox and
installed a Unifilter (WOW - what a difference). The only minor complaint
is that the popping on closed throttle deceleration seems a little more
noticeable. Will that be a function of the needle position or the pilot
jet? Thumper Racing told me to use the third groove from the top (which I
did). I know that Jesse recommends the fourth groove from the top when
using the Vortex, so the Thumper recommendation sounds correct. I'm saving
up for the Vortex next, but in the meantime I'd like to get this DR350SE
running perfectly. Settings: stock muffler, no jetting changes, pilot
adjustment screw is 2 turns out.
I'm now more convinced than ever that the stock airbox is so restrictive
simply for noise reduction.
Thanks,
Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Coleman, Patrick" <PDCOLEMA@southernco.com>
Subject: (dr) SuperMotard Ride report
Date: 22 May 2000 15:37:15 -0500
This past weekend, I got a chance to ride an XR400 modified with
SuperMotard/SuperTT wheels and brakes. If you are unfamiliar with this
style, take a look at http://www.supertt.com . If you are interested in
trying this with your DR, read on, otherwise, never mind.
I rode the XR on some twisty roads in North Georgia near the T.W.O.
campground, Highway 180 if you are familiar with the area. The XR was
basically stock, with very mild jetting and exhaust work. The owner bought
some used wheels from a friend. The front is a 3.5 by 17inch, and the rear
is a 4.5 by 17 inch. Both rims are laced to gold anodized Talon rims. The
front wheel has an oversized brake disk, and he has an adapter which
relocates the stock brake caliper to work with the oversized disk. Both
wheels had used, nearly worn out Metzeler MEZ1s.
Most SuperMotard bikes are modified dirtbikes, with lowered suspension.
Garry wants to keep his suspension stock, so he can easily switch wheels for
off road riding. This results in 2 compromises: the suspension moves around
more than you want when flogging it on a mountain road, and you can't go
very much smaller on the rear sprocket without the chain really sawing on
the swing arm.
With that wide rear rim, it is tempting to mount a really large rear tire.
This wheel had a 150 Metzeler mounted, and the previous owner had to trim it
down a bit with a belt sander to clear the chain. Chain clearance is
basically non-existant. Unless something can be done to move the sprockets
over, the 150 is the absolute max on this bike. I compared the actually
installed width of the Dunlop D207 160 on the rear of my Hawk GT, and the
chain would have to be spaced over at least 1/4 inch to clear.
Riding impressions:
1. This thing is a blast on tight twisty roads, even with the stock
suspension. The XR has more power than my stocker DR350, but not really that
much more power. A DR could be just as much fun.
2. It is geared way too short, and there is a limit to how large the front
sprocket can go, and how small the rear sprocket can be.
3. That oversized disk is way too much. This is not a one finger brake, you
need to use your little finger that has been smashed into too many trees to
stop this bike, otherwise you'll be amazing your friends with stoppies at
every turn. I wouldn't think about an oversize disk until I was sure that I
needed it. It looks great, though.
This past weekend at T.W.O. there was a Thumper group there. Lots of dual
sports, SR500s, and other types of singles. The XR with the gold anodized
hubs drew spectators like flies to honey. When we swapped to the knobbies to
do some off road riding, it was just another dual sport.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) popping on deceleration
Date: 22 May 2000 14:07:28 -0700 (PDT)
--- Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin
<beauchemin@telus.net> wrote:
> I finally installed the JX needle & spring, cut open
> the airbox the popping on closed throttle
deceleration
> seems a little more
> noticeable
> I'm saving
> up for the Vortex next, > .
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
>
>Chris the popping is due to the function of the CV
carb.I installed the pumper TM33SS on my SE and that
popping is FAR less.The Vortex airbox you will love
indeed.This box will put a nice snap in your right
hand it's worth every dime. John in N.Y.
> -
>
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: (dr) for sale: rack for 250/350
Date: 22 May 2000 15:09:24 -0700
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01BFC3FF.B78840A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have a rear rack for sale, see the photo at
http://members.aol.com/dougb1969/rack.jpg
<http://members.aol.com/dougb1969/rack.jpg>
Price $40.00+shipping
Email me off list if you are interested.
Doug
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01BFC3FF.B78840A0
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From: Jgbufka@aol.com
Subject: (dr) 2000 DR650 mods
Date: 22 May 2000 18:43:33 EDT
Thanks Chris for reinforcing what I've heard about the Russel steel brake
lines. They'll be my next project.
Yes, the airbox on the DRs is restrictive. I didn't notice it got a lot
noisier on my 650 when I liberated it but it sure ran better. I did open the
exhaust a little too though and that might be masking it.
I started out with a Supertrapp IDS exhaust, and removed the airbox lid. I
then followed the Dynotech recommendations for stage two jetting for the kit
I ordered from them. We used their needle which is actually tapered compared
to the DR's rounder profile, turned the screw out and went from the 140 to a
170 main jet. Everything started good, idled good and ran so-so. I then
started adding discs to the IDS Supertrapp and got to 14 and found it was
running better although it still felt a little rich and a plug check
confirmed this. I then put in a K&N air filter and it really came alive. It
was like I'd unplugged it. More air flow does wonders. She flat scats.
Jerry
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From: "William C. Mitchell" <bill@maptriangle.com>
Subject: (dr) Lower fork brace
Date: 22 May 2000 18:54:27 -0400
Does anyone know where to get a decent price on the Summers Racing lower
fork brace? Jesse? BTW, I ordered links from Norm Kouba, nice guy.
Bill Mitchell
98 DR350SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) popping on deceleration
Date: 22 May 2000 15:56:17 -0700
HI Chris, I would still recommend going to the fourth groove down on the
needle clip with your present setup. The popping indicates a lean
condition.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 12:10 PM
I finally installed the JX needle & spring, cut open the airbox and
installed a Unifilter (WOW - what a difference). The only minor complaint
is that the popping on closed throttle deceleration seems a little more
noticeable. Will that be a function of the needle position or the pilot
jet? Thumper Racing told me to use the third groove from the top (which I
did). I know that Jesse recommends the fourth groove from the top when
using the Vortex, so the Thumper recommendation sounds correct. I'm saving
up for the Vortex next, but in the meantime I'd like to get this DR350SE
running perfectly. Settings: stock muffler, no jetting changes, pilot
adjustment screw is 2 turns out.
I'm now more convinced than ever that the stock airbox is so restrictive
simply for noise reduction.
Thanks,
Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "William C. Mitchell" <bill@maptriangle.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Lower fork brace
Date: 22 May 2000 19:55:40 -0400
>Hi Bill, great Norm is good people, Do you need a spring?
>
>Regards,
>Jesse Kientz
>http://www.kientech.com/
>
>Does anyone know where to get a decent price on the Summers Racing lower
>fork brace? Jesse? BTW, I ordered links from Norm Kouba, nice guy.
>
>Bill Mitchell
>98 DR350SE
Hi Jesse,
I need an 8.1kg Eibach for two up trail riding. I hope it won't be a back
breaker when riding solo. Norm said he didn't have one and that you might.
When I saw the price of the Summers fork brace I almost choked. That's what
I really need now. So unless I can find better prices I'm going to have to
spread out my purchases.
Bill Mitchell
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 2000 DR650 mods
Date: 22 May 2000 18:55:39 -0600
> confirmed this. I then put in a K&N air filter and it really came alive.
It
> was like I'd unplugged it. More air flow does wonders. She flat scats.
ahh, just the man I was looking for...I'm putting the DSN project DR650 bike
together and when it came to the K & N I came to a screeching halt...as
there didn't appear to be any way to secure it to the stock box. Did I throw
away a piece that was in the box? The stock air cleaner is retained by a
nylon piece that has a pointed tip that is a slip fit into the top of the
foam cleaner cage, the other end attaches via a bolt to the inside of the
box. The top of my K & N is sealed with a ridge running through the middle
but no hole to receive a slip fit nylon piece. Can you help me my man?
Kurt
BTW, the new Dual Star centerstand is a dream come true, terrific
construction and finish like everything Mike does. You just remove the 4
bolts securing the footpegs, slip the stand on, put some blue locktite on
and torque them to 39 Newton and you're all set. A perfect fit. My rear
wheel is a good 2 inches off the ground.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Lower fork brace
Date: 22 May 2000 19:18:01 -0700
Hi Bill, I will get one on order and try to have it drop shipped to you if I
have an address to send it to. they are $85.00 plus shipping $8.00 (they are
heavy). let me Know my phone no is 541-472-0835 and I am in Grants Pass OR
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of William C. Mitchell
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 4:56 PM
>Hi Bill, great Norm is good people, Do you need a spring?
>
>Regards,
>Jesse Kientz
>http://www.kientech.com/
>
>Does anyone know where to get a decent price on the Summers Racing lower
>fork brace? Jesse? BTW, I ordered links from Norm Kouba, nice guy.
>
>Bill Mitchell
>98 DR350SE
Hi Jesse,
I need an 8.1kg Eibach for two up trail riding. I hope it won't be a back
breaker when riding solo. Norm said he didn't have one and that you might.
When I saw the price of the Summers fork brace I almost choked. That's what
I really need now. So unless I can find better prices I'm going to have to
spread out my purchases.
Bill Mitchell
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "SWAMPY!" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: (dr) Devil's Creek Update
Date: 23 May 2000 12:49:38 -0400
Just got back from doing the route sheet for the second half of the Sunday
ride. Man it's dry in the swamp! Anyhoo, It was a blast! Add a little rain,
mix it up and get some mud and fill in some of the low parts with water and
it'll be near perfect! And this is just the second half of the ride! Still
gotta do the first half and the alternate section!
Ran across some logging going on in one of the sections down by the
firetower off Goat Rd. I've never seen them log there before. I must say,
those logging trucks are tearing up Goat Rd even though they've reinforced a
few areas with limestone.
Other than that, rustled up a few quail, a couple deer, and a few
armadillos. It was a nice morning and I'm home by noon!
For more info on the Devil's Creek Dual Sport Weekend go to
http://www.geocities.com/mrktm/creekflyer.html
Swampy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Comobu@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Fork brace...
Date: 23 May 2000 13:16:51 EDT
Norm, you had something to share about a fork brace... some horror story of
them being able to slip down.. catching the front knobby... causing an
instant horrific end over end crash?
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sampson" <didi@acworld.net>
Subject: (dr) Hatfield and McCoy Trail
Date: 23 May 2000 15:46:47 -0000
Hello guys!!!
I am requesting info on the proposed (and I believe open now) Hatfield
and McCoy Trail that is to go thru several states and be hundreds of miles
long. Any info would be appreciated including phone# contacts, e-mail
addresses or websites.
I am very interested in riding this area someday and want to find out
all I can before I go there---it is a long way from my house!!!
Thanks!!!!
Mark Sampson
didi@acworld.net
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650 (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wesley Woolfall <wesleyjohn@totalise.co.uk>
Subject: (dr) exhaust
Date: 23 May 2000 22:12:30 +0100
I am putting a new exhaust on my Dr350SP, If I do not do any mods to the air
box will I have to rejet, to run the exhaust, as I am not bothered about a
power increase just yet.
Thanks Wez
Totalise - the Users ISP
----------------------
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visit http://www.totalise.net
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) exhaust
Date: 23 May 2000 15:02:39 -0700
HI Wez, this depends on the brand of exhaust that you use, some are freer
flowing than others most though will run leaner when you do this. Four
strokes are not as likely to hurt themselves as two strokes but it is a
possibility. When you install it check your plug color often if it is white
it would be wise to jet it richer. Check the plug color before you do it so
that you know what it looked like before the change. If you have to get into
the carb let me know and I will try to talk you through it.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Wesley Woolfall
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 2:13 PM
I am putting a new exhaust on my Dr350SP, If I do not do any mods to the air
box will I have to rejet, to run the exhaust, as I am not bothered about a
power increase just yet.
Thanks Wez
Totalise - the Users ISP
----------------------
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visit http://www.totalise.net
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com
Subject: (dr) SRC Fork Brace Kits
Date: 23 May 2000 23:21:23 -0400
On Mon, 22 May 2000 18:54:27 -0400 "William C. Mitchell"
<bill@maptriangle.com> writes:
> Does anyone know where to get a decent price on the Summers Racing
lower fork brace? Jesse? BTW, I ordered >links from Norm Kouba, nice guy.
>
> Bill Mitchell
> 98 DR350SE
Dear Bill (and the group),
I would be more than happy to sell you a Summers Racing Components (SRC)
Fork Brace. It is, with out of doubt, the most cost effective
modification you can make to a DR 350 where deep sand or mud riding is
concerned.
I rode with an SRC brace for over a year on my '96 DR 350 SET. At the
1999 Swamp Fox Dual Sport Ride near Charleston, SC I was able to motor
through the multitude of deep sand washes with confidence and at a
considerably more rapid pace than the other DR-Ss in our group. I also
noticed a much more confident feel in sweeping fire road curves as the
front end stayed firmly planted as I steered with the broadsliding rear.
FUN! FUN! FUN!
This year, at the 2000 Swamp Fox Dual Sport Ride, I was on a '99 DR 350
SEX, without an SRC Fork Brace. Although I could scoot through the whoop
sections at a much faster and controlled pace than on the '96 due to the
much improved suspension components, I was all over the place in the deep
sand washes. I was forced to back off and paddle throught them, all
because of the lack of the SRC Fork Brace. It made for a very long day!
The SRC Fork Brace improves suspension performance and steering accuracy
at a fraction of the cost of inverted forks. The SRC Fork Brace allows
the rider to take advantage of the lower weight of the stock fork without
sacrificing smooth suspension action or steering vagueness due to fork
flex.
With the SRC fork brace, steering is accomplished with much more
precision, most noticeable while riding in ruts, sand, rocks and roots.
The SRC Fork Brace virtually eliminates fork flex which means a reduction
of suspension friction, drag and binding. Kits are now available to fit
most XRs, DRs (including the new DR-Zs), and KTM WP forks. Also available
are new mini cycle fork braces. Also new braces for certain vintage
Honda, Yamaha & Husqvarna models.
The SRC Fork Brace was voted one of the "Top Ten New Products" in 1996 by
Dirt Bike magazine, and "What every XR owner should have" by Dirt Rider
magazine in 1997.
In another post to the list, Guy "Comobu@aol.com" writes, "Norm, you had
something to share about a fork brace... some horror story of them being
able to slip down.. catching the front knobby... causing an instant
horrific end over end crash?"
I have to tell you, that I have only heard of only one incident remotely
related to this scenario. And, that incident only happened due to a
combination of factors. Our Team Rider, Seven-Time Mid-East Hare
Scramble Champion Vance Earl, had his fork brace come loose on his DR-Z
400-E at the Big Buck GNCC and contact his tire as he led the 4-stroke A
Class. Even then, it did not cause "an instant, horrific, end over end
crash". It just caused the wheel to skid. The combination of factors
which led to this incident where: the brace was actually for a KTM 400
which has 40mm forks, whereas the DR-Z has 39mm forks; the front fender
was placed much lower than stock due to the mounting plate for a Works
Enduro Rider (W.E.R.) steering stabilizer and a fork brace, so that it
contacted the brace; and no Loctite or Threebond was used to secure the
clamp screws which worked loose.
A multitude of riders, including Scott Summers and our Team Rider,
defending National Hare Scramble Series 4-Stroke A Class Champion Curt
Wilcox, who ride much fast and much harder than you and I can ever
imagine, have no problems with the braces.
DR 350 Fork Brace Kits sell for $199.95 and include fork brace, fork
guards, guides, wipers and necessary hardware. SRC offers a 30 Day Money
Back Satisfaction Guarantee on their Fork Brace Kits, but you'll never
have to use it.
As for "a decent price", I am of the belief that suggested retail is "a
decent price" for high quality, premium products such as all SRC
products, Keintech airboxes, Kouba Links and such. However, you had
mentioned earlier that you where contemplating joining The Blue Ridge
Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc. If you indeed have, you will receive a
10% discount on any, and all, parts purchases you make at Suzuki-Kawasaki
of Gastonia. Therefore, The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Member price on an
SRC Fork Brace Kit is $179.96. If you wish me to ship one to you, I can
do so, by Priority Mail, for $5.00.
I hope this helps.
Happy trials,
Al
C. Al Roof
Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure Ride
Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
Office Manager / Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki Kawasaki of Gastonia
Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
Association, Inc.
Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
Conservation Council, Inc.
501 Cox Road
Gastonia, North Carolina 28054
704) 867-9626 Office
(704) 867-3699 Fax
Al.Roof.for.NC.Trails@juno.com
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From: "William C. Mitchell" <bill@maptriangle.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) SRC Fork Brace Kits
Date: 24 May 2000 08:10:42 -0400
Al,
I'm going to take you up on that. I'll give you a call to handle the
details. The SRC fork brace seemed costly to me for just the brace, however
to be fair it comes with more than that. Also apparently the DR after
market isn't exactly a big market that benefits much from economy of scale,
at least a good selection of items are available for it.
Suggested retail is indeed a fair price from a stocking dealer, inventory
is costly. Also, in todays market you can never be sure what dealer
discount is, I realize sometimes it can be pretty thin. I believe in
supporting my local dealer(s) whenever possible, but I won't and I can't
afford to over pay. I don't mind paying for information either, I try to
deal with people who help with my education. Those of us looking for the
best price are merely trying to stretch our limited dollars in order to
obtain all the goodies we think we need to be happy.
BTW, thanks for the tip on the gel accessory seat. I ordered the all vinyl
one from my dealer. It's a little lower and wider than the stock seat. No
monkey butt yet, either. I should have taken your advice on getting the
spandura, the vinyl is pretty slippery, I'm hoping that will improve with
time.
Bill Mitchell
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ric Aruffo" <ric.aruffo@studiointeractive.com>
Subject: (dr) New Playground
Date: 24 May 2000 08:22:00 -0500
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
May 22, 2000
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Rausch Creek Motorsports LP to open new motorsports park in
central Pennsylvania.
Rausch Creek Motorsports LP announces the opening of its
Motocross and ATV Park set for Memorial Day weekend. This
is the first phase of a 6000 acre motorsports park that
will include the Motocross and ATV Park, Rallysports
course, a 3 plus mile road racing track and areas for
growth into other types of motorsports. All track designs
will flow with the natural elevation changes of the local
mountains. Located 45 miles north of Harrisburg, the
property surrounds the intersection of Interstate 81 at
exit 33 and Rt. 209. The parks location will allow for
easy access from all major northeastern and mid-Atlantic
cities. Completion of the 40 foot wide European Grand
Prix-style road course is set for later this year with a
full race schedule slated for 2001. With recent approval of
all zoning permits, owner Ronald Lickman, along with track
management, will initially concentrate on motorcycle club
racing including PACE/CCS, WERA, and AHRMA. In the future
Rausch Creek hopes to attract national AMA and World
Superbike events. The future also has plans to include
open wheel and vintage auto racing, but Rausch Creek will
start with a motorcycle friendly race track. For more
information on the Motocross and ATV Park contact John
Grodensky, Off Road Events Coordinator; for information on
road racing or rally sports contact Andrew Stutzman,
General Manager, both at (570) 682-4600 or email at
rauschcreek@hotmail.com.
Andrew Stutzman
General Manager
Rausch Creek Motorsports LP
978 Gap Street
Valley View, PA 17983
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AQAAAAAAAAAeAAyACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAACwANgAggBgAA
AAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAgoUAAAEAAAALADqACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAOhQAAAAAAAAMA
PIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABGFAAAAAAAAAwA9gAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAGIUA
AAAAAAALAFKACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAGhQAAAAAAAAMAU4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABG
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TFZBTklBUkEAAAAA1Yo=
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFC559.21E6D380--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "SWAMPY!" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: (dr) Devil's Creek Entries
Date: 25 May 2000 08:58:45 -0400
The entries for the Devil's Creek Dual Sport Weekend for July 20/30 in
Brooksville. FL are beginning to come in. Remember, this is a limited entry
event so you need to register early!
To see the online flyer and get an entry form go to
http://www.geocities.com/mrktm/creekflyer.html
Swampy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Rainer.Knape.SGG@t-online.de (Rainer Knape)
Subject: Re: (dr) 2000 DR650 mods
Date: 25 May 2000 16:53:00 +0200
Hello Jerry,
Kurt has asked you about some problems with the K&N-Filter.
I (and probably some more of us) would be interested in your expierences -
please send your answer to the list.
Thanks Rainer
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jgbufka@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) 2000 DR650 mods
Date: 25 May 2000 11:11:59 EDT
Rainer,
The problems Kurt asked me about had to do with installation of his K&N as he
couldn't install his and wondered if he'd lost or thrown out a piece.
Following is a copy of my reply to him.
You may not have thrown it out, it might never have been included with your
filter. K&N supplies a piece to do exactly what the stock piece does along
with the gasket to be mounted in your airbox. When mine came in, neither the
gasket or the attachment piece (it's a little black thing with a slot in it
for the stock screw) were in the box. We had to call K&N to confirm the
pieces were missing and they air freighted them out. The box with my filter
in it was assembled in 2000 so it may be a problem on the assembly line.
I had no problems with the K&N filter itself. It flows a lot more air than
the stock foam element.
Jerry
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) DR350 not running well...
Date: 25 May 2000 09:22:44 -0600
Hey list,
I was just riding my totally stock 350 yesterday when it seemed that all
of a sudden the bike just seemed to start bogging really bad!! At first I
thought that i was out of fuel so I checked and still had over half a tank.
When you are going slow in first gear and crack the throttle, the bike would
sort of hickup or hesitate and then slowly raise in rpm. To me it sounds
like I have a problem with the fuel system but I am pretty bike illiterate
and am just not sure what is wrong... When the bike is at a stand still it
idles great and seems normal when you crack the throttle but when you put it
in gear it just doesn't have anywhere near the same power. If anyone has
any idea of what may be going on please feel free.. The bike is a '92 and
has 4000miles and it still seems like it has good compression.
Sincerely
Confused(owen)
'92 dr350s
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Staskiewicz, Frank" <Frank.Staskiewicz@GTECH.COM>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 not running well...
Date: 25 May 2000 11:47:00 -0400
Check your carb vent hose first. It is routed up into the frame above the
carb. If there is a low spot in this line where gas can collect it will not
vent properly with symptoms you describe. Others have rerouted this hose
down to avoid such problems.
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 11:23 AM
Hey list,
I was just riding my totally stock 350 yesterday when it seemed that all
of a sudden the bike just seemed to start bogging really bad!! At first I
thought that i was out of fuel so I checked and still had over half a tank.
When you are going slow in first gear and crack the throttle, the bike would
sort of hickup or hesitate and then slowly raise in rpm. To me it sounds
like I have a problem with the fuel system but I am pretty bike illiterate
and am just not sure what is wrong... When the bike is at a stand still it
idles great and seems normal when you crack the throttle but when you put it
in gear it just doesn't have anywhere near the same power. If anyone has
any idea of what may be going on please feel free.. The bike is a '92 and
has 4000miles and it still seems like it has good compression.
Sincerely
Confused(owen)
'92 dr350s
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Richard Fantini" <rich@noreast.com>
Subject: (dr) No more conversions...
Date: 25 May 2000 11:45:48 -0400
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0054_01BFC63E.C4E0C4C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thought that everyone might want to know about this... DMV of New York =
state (and about 20 or so other states) will no longer allow you to =
trade in your dirt title for dual sport converted vehicles. It's in =
violation of some EPA regulations and soon no state will be allowing =
such conversions. I found out about this an hour ago when the guy from =
DMV called me and told me I wasn't getting a road title for my KDX200. =
So now I have over $700 in useless street crap strapped to my bike... =
just my luck.
I think I may see a potential way to get around this, however. I'm =
going to try it and see what happens...
-Rich
------=_NextPart_000_0054_01BFC63E.C4E0C4C0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2920.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thought that everyone might want to =
know about=20
this... DMV of New York state (and about 20 or so other=20
states) will no longer allow you to trade in your dirt title =
for dual=20
sport converted vehicles. It's in violation of some EPA =
regulations and=20
soon no state will be allowing such conversions. I found out about =
this an=20
hour ago when the guy from DMV called me and told me I wasn't=20
getting a road title for my KDX200. So now I have over $700 in =
useless=20
street crap strapped to my bike... just my luck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I think I may see a potential way =
to get=20
around this, however. I'm going to try it and see what=20
happens...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Rich</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0054_01BFC63E.C4E0C4C0--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 not running well...
Date: 25 May 2000 09:32:45 -0700
> Subject: (dr) DR350 not running well...
> Hey list,
> I was just riding my totally stock 350 yesterday when it seemed that all
> of a sudden the bike just seemed to start bogging really bad!! At first I
> thought that i was out of fuel so I checked and still had over half a
tank.
> When you are going slow in first gear and crack the throttle, the bike
would
> sort of hickup or hesitate and then slowly raise in rpm
> Check your carb vent hose first. It is routed up into the frame above the
> carb. If there is a low spot in this line where gas can collect it will
not
> vent properly with symptoms you describe. Others have rerouted this hose
> down to avoid such problems.
Ironic... I'm having "exactly" the same problem (with my 4-stroke Ryobi)
trimmer. Hasn't run all winter... Drained the old gas and put in fresh...
Starts fine and idles perfectly... BUT when I try and apply throttle, it
dies under load. It's only a year old... what gives? Maybe it too has a
vent hose. I can't see the air cleaner needing any work/cleaning as I got
it at the very end of the season last year and it only has about an hour on
it tops.
Sorry I can't offer any help on the DR... =^(
Cheers,
Arne
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) Moab Name Tags...
Date: 25 May 2000 15:21:27 -0600
Anyone who would like a prepared Avery name tag in a plastic badge holder
please respond to me off-line in the following format:
Firstname Lastname
City, State, Country
Bike Year, Bike Model
I'll have them ready for you to pick up at Fred's when you get there...my
treat.
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 not running well...
Date: 25 May 2000 20:37:10 -0700
Regarding that vent hose, there is modification commonly referred to as "the
T-Vent mod"
Put a small "tee" in the line an add a section of hose that points down, so
if any fuel collects in the line, it drains.
Doug
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Staskiewicz, Frank
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 8:47 AM
Check your carb vent hose first. It is routed up into the frame above the
carb. If there is a low spot in this line where gas can collect it will not
vent properly with symptoms you describe. Others have rerouted this hose
down to avoid such problems.
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 11:23 AM
Hey list,
I was just riding my totally stock 350 yesterday when it seemed that all
of a sudden the bike just seemed to start bogging really bad!! At first I
thought that i was out of fuel so I checked and still had over half a tank.
When you are going slow in first gear and crack the throttle, the bike would
sort of hickup or hesitate and then slowly raise in rpm. To me it sounds
like I have a problem with the fuel system but I am pretty bike illiterate
and am just not sure what is wrong... When the bike is at a stand still it
idles great and seems normal when you crack the throttle but when you put it
in gear it just doesn't have anywhere near the same power. If anyone has
any idea of what may be going on please feel free.. The bike is a '92 and
has 4000miles and it still seems like it has good compression.
Sincerely
Confused(owen)
'92 dr350s
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) K & N solved...
Date: 26 May 2000 14:38:15 -0600
Many thanks to listers, Tim Bernard and his K & N reps... Tim's wholesaler
called and left a message that K & N was express mailing me the missing
piece. It arrived 24 hours later and I'm back in business...
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "jnugent" <2jnugent@prodigy.net>
Subject: (dr) Oil stainer screen
Date: 26 May 2000 20:48:46 -0400
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFC753.C981C040
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi all, I hope you all have a nice ride planned for this long weekend. =
What I need to know is were is the oil strainer located and what is the =
best way to go about removing and cleaning it? I know that is in one of =
the oil lines I'm just not sure which one and what fitting to remove.
I have a ride with a couple of friends this weekend and would like to =
clean it when I change the oil. I cant wait to try out my new tire's =
(Dunlop K 139 and D 606) I've been riding for three years on the stock =
tires and were we ride (northern Mich.) is really loose, deep sand and =
black mud. So the new tires should be a god sent. The DNR trail we are =
going to ride has 15 loops for a total of 110 miles it should be a great =
day.
=
Thanks for the help Jim Nugent
=
97 350 SE
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFC753.C981C040
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Hi all, I hope you all have a =
nice ride=20
planned for this long weekend. What I need to know is were is the oil =
strainer=20
located and what is the best way to go about removing and cleaning it? I =
know=20
that is in one of the oil lines I'm just not sure which one and what =
fitting to=20
remove.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I have a ride with a couple of =
friends this=20
weekend and would like to clean it when I change the oil. I cant wait to =
try out=20
my new tire's (Dunlop K 139 and D 606) I've been riding for three years =
on the=20
stock tires and were we ride (northern Mich.) is really loose, deep sand =
and=20
black mud. So the new tires should be a god sent. The DNR trail we are =
going to=20
ride has 15 loops for a total of 110 miles it should be a great=20
day.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; =20
Thanks for the help Jim Nugent</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp;=20
97 350 SE</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BFC753.C981C040--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ADAM NEAT <neat@bikerider.com>
Subject: (dr) FWD: DR STRAINER
Date: 26 May 2000 22:33:14 -0400 (EDT)
------Original Message------
Sent: May 27, 2000 2:16:14 AM GMT
OK JIM HERE IT GOES. ITS FRESH IN MY MIND SINCE I DID MINE ABOUT A MONTH
AGO. THE SCREEN IS PART OF THE FITTING THAT SCREWS INTO THE CENTER DOWNTUBE
OF THE FRAME(FRONT). THERE IS A HOSE THAT GOES THERE. TAKE THE HOSE CLAMP
LOOSE AND REMOVE THE HOSE. (AFTER DRAINING YOUR OIL) THEN TAKE A SOCKET OR
WRENCH AND TAKE THE FITTING OUT (IT HAS A HEX ON IT). THE SCREEN IS PART OF
THE FITTING. DONT BE SUPRISED TO SEE A FEW SMALL METAL CHIPS OR DEBRIS,
THATS JUST LEFTOVER FROM WHEN THE BIKE WAS MADE AND THATS WHY THE SCREEN IS
THERE. WHEN THEY HAVE THE OIL TANK AS PART OF THE FRAME THERE IS NO WAY TO
GET IT ALL OUT WHEN IT IS MANUFACTURED SO THEY PUT A SCREEN IN THERE TO KEEP
THAT STUFF FROM GETTING TO THE MOTOR. I HOPE THIS HELPS, GOOD LUCK AND HAVE
FUN , ADAM (96DR350)
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Gary Douglas" <GDouglas@peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) FWD: DR STRAINER
Date: 26 May 2000 19:22:23 -0400
<<<<THE SCREEN IS PART OF THE FITTING THAT SCREWS INTO THE CENTER DOWNTUBE
> OF THE FRAME(FRONT). THERE IS A HOSE THAT GOES THERE. TAKE THE HOSE CLAMP
> LOOSE AND REMOVE THE HOSE. (AFTER DRAINING YOUR OIL) THEN TAKE A SOCKET OR
> WRENCH AND TAKE THE FITTING OUT (IT HAS A HEX ON IT)>>>
It's easier to do if you remove the skid plate first, which is just held
on with 4 easily removed bolts.
Gary D.
So. Burlington, VT
'99 DR350SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) Fw: Master Link question...
Date: 28 May 2000 11:11:28 -0600
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0081_01BFC895.78224F60
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I'm just installed my first master link. The link came with a small =
amount of what appears to be safety wire. Can someone explain to me how =
it is to be used?
Thanks,
Kurt
------=_NextPart_000_0081_01BFC895.78224F60
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2920.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'm just installed my first master =
link. The link=20
came with a small amount of what appears to be safety wire. Can someone =
explain=20
to me how it is to be used?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Kurt</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0081_01BFC895.78224F60--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin" <beauchemin@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) popping on deceleration
Date: 28 May 2000 21:26:52 -0700
Hi Jesse,
I followed your advice and moved the clip to the fourth groove.
The popping is still there to a lesser extent, but the transition from
idle (pilot jet) circuit to needle circuit has become much smoother
improving the off-idle driveability.
Thanks to everyone for the input.
Chris
>HI Chris, I would still recommend going to the fourth groove down on the
>needle clip with your present setup. The popping indicates a lean
>condition.
>
>Regards,
>Jesse Kientz
>http://www.kientech.com/
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
>Behalf Of Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin
>Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 12:10 PM
>To: DR list
>Subject: (dr) popping on deceleration
>
>
>I finally installed the JX needle & spring, cut open the airbox and
>installed a Unifilter (WOW - what a difference). The only minor complaint
>is that the popping on closed throttle deceleration seems a little more
>noticeable. Will that be a function of the needle position or the pilot
>jet? Thumper Racing told me to use the third groove from the top (which I
>did). I know that Jesse recommends the fourth groove from the top when
>using the Vortex, so the Thumper recommendation sounds correct. I'm saving
>up for the Vortex next, but in the meantime I'd like to get this DR350SE
>running perfectly. Settings: stock muffler, no jetting changes, pilot
>adjustment screw is 2 turns out.
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From: "Garth Skelton" <g_skelton@hotmail.com>
Subject: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 29 May 2000 09:52:23 PDT
I found a link off a web site somewhere and for the life of me cannot find
it again. It had a map of the U.S. and you could click on a state and there
would be dual-sport rides and maps for each state. It was a great site and
I would love to find it again. Does anyone know of anything like that? Or
where I could find maps and rides on the net?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________
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From: "SWAMPY!" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 29 May 2000 18:05:58 -0400
Go To
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
Swampy
-----Original Message-----
>I found a link off a web site somewhere and for the life of me cannot find
>it again. It had a map of the U.S. and you could click on a state and
there
>would be dual-sport rides and maps for each state. It was a great site and
>I would love to find it again. Does anyone know of anything like that? Or
>where I could find maps and rides on the net?
>Thanks
>________________________________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 29 May 2000 20:53:13 EDT
Does anyone know of a website like this for western states, such as Colorado?
Thanks,
Craig K DR350
Colorado Springs, CO
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 29 May 2000 21:12:05 EDT
...how about one for NJ, PA, MD, NY and New England?
Scott
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From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 29 May 2000 18:24:12 -0700
Naw,
That's no good! How about one for California, Arizona or Utah, MAYBE
Colorado. You know, the states with the REAL scenery.
Wayne
--
********************************************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
http://www.mikthebik.com/
=======================================================================
MB-5 S-65 S-90 CT-90 SS-125 CA-95 CL-160 CB-200 TL-250 CB77 CL77 CA77
CB350-4 CB400F CB500-4 B-550F CB750F GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE.... Ready for some Dual Sportin' .............
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jim_B=E9ranger?= <redblues@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 29 May 2000 23:33:14 -0400
The only site I know of that has what you describe is at www.motonetmag.com,
clock on "clubs and places" and then "places to ride". Hope this helps.
-J
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Garth Skelton
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2000 12:52
I found a link off a web site somewhere and for the life of me cannot find
it again. It had a map of the U.S. and you could click on a state and there
would be dual-sport rides and maps for each state. It was a great site and
I would love to find it again. Does anyone know of anything like that? Or
where I could find maps and rides on the net?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
Subject: (dr) DR650 wheels wanted
Date: 29 May 2000 20:53:11 -0700
Hey, anybody out thar got extry wheels to fit a 97 DR650 thet they kin part
with? I shore hate changin tires back-an-forth fer serious off-roadin ...
Lisa :)
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From: Cklppnbrg@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 30 May 2000 11:52:50 EDT
Hhhheeeeyyyy Waynoh!
What is this "MAYBE" Colorado stuff?????? Huh????
Craig K. DR350
Colorado Springs, where else????
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Garth Skelton" <g_skelton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 30 May 2000 10:35:44 PDT
Here is the info I was looking for. I checked out motonetmag and found info
on tracks and ORV parks, but for dual sport rides in Washington check out
http://www.fortunecity.com/oasis/venice/33/page6.html
For a map of the U.S. that you can click on check out different states,
check out
http://www.all-offroad.com
Then go to places to ride.
I'll be riding all day! Too bad for you working folks!
________________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ron Smith" <zx6e@mindspring.com>
Subject: (dr) Oil Filter question
Date: 30 May 2000 16:58:08 -0500
What's the substitute oil filter for the DR650's? I don't mind paying extra
for th Suzuki product, I just hate driving 30-miles to get one if it's
available at Advance or Ought-to-Zone.
Ron
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From: "Doug B" <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) maps and rides
Date: 30 May 2000 16:05:47 -0700
Dual Sport events in Washington:
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/eventsched.html
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Garth Skelton
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 10:36 AM
Here is the info I was looking for. I checked out motonetmag and found info
on tracks and ORV parks, but for dual sport rides in Washington check out
http://www.fortunecity.com/oasis/venice/33/page6.html
For a map of the U.S. that you can click on check out different states,
check out
http://www.all-offroad.com
Then go to places to ride.
I'll be riding all day! Too bad for you working folks!
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Oil Filter question
Date: 30 May 2000 20:52:47 -0600
> What's the substitute oil filter for the DR650's? I don't mind paying
extra
> for th Suzuki product, I just hate driving 30-miles to get one if it's
> available at Advance or Ought-to-Zone.
>
> Ron
I don't either so I always equip my bikes with lifetime surgical steel mesh
filters from Fred Hink...I just put one in the project DR...Fred is at
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com .
Kur
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com
Subject: (dr) Re: Introduction, riders wanted
Date: 30 May 2000 23:41:04 -0400
On Tue, 30 May 2000 14:55:43 -0400 Bill Snyder <topgunone@mindspring.com>
writes:
> After signing up for the email group a week ago, I have gotten several
helpful messages just by getting access to the >community mail.
>
> My name is Bill Snyder and I live in Simpsonville, SC (near
Greenville).
>
> I am looking for some riding partners in the area, either with families
who ride or just the guys. I've entered the >Honda Hoot Dual Sport ride
on 6/24, so anyone who is nearby and would like to get together, I'd
welcome a
> response. Good riding to all!
>
> Bill
Dear Bill,
My name is Al Roof and I live in South Crowders Creek, NC (Near
Charlotte). I am President of the 100-member Blue Ridge Pathfinders
Motorcycle Club, Inc., which I founded as a dual sport club in 1991.
Along with a heavy slant towards dual sporting, the club now encompasses
all aspects of off-road motorcycling and ATV trail riding.
I am also the promoter of the Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure
Ride (my third), so I was glad to see that you are entered! I look
forward to meeting you there so that we can discuss future riding
opportunities.
Although the majority of The Blue Ridge Pathfinders' membership is based
in the Charlotte metro area, we have members from Florida, New Jersey,
Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina and Tennessee. We even have
some members right near you. Derek Reavis, who rides off-road only,
lives right there in Simpsonville. David Garland lives in Seneca, and is
an avid dual sport enthusiasts who knows of trails and back roads that
I've never even seen. And, Gerald Jones' Upstate Cycle in Greenville is
a loyal Commercial Member of the club.....a great little shop I might
add!
Now for some propoganda. I canÆt think of any better way to learn about
preserving, promoting and enjoying OHV recreation in North Carolina than
to join our Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.. The Club is
comprised of individuals, families, and commercial members. Currently
there are about 100 members in the club, and we always welcome new
members.
Meetings are usually held on the second Tuesday of each month and start
at 7:00 p.m.. Non-members are welcome. Call ahead for meeting
locations.
The most important reason to get involved is to help us build a group
large enough, educated enough and powerful enough to make an impact on
the future of trails in the Carolinas and the country. In 1995, we,
along with the North Carolina Trail Riders, The Smokey Mountain ORV Club,
and the Unifour Trail Bike Club, established the North Carolina
Off-Highway Vehicle Association (NOVA). We work in cooperation with The
Blue Ribbon Coalition, The National Off-Highway Vehicle Conservation
Council and The AMA in order to stay informed and influential.
In our efforts to insure access to public and private lands, we promote
the TEAM STEALTH concept by encouraging riders to get the quietest
machine they can, then make it quieter.
Another reason to join is to have a chance to ride some of the finest
trails in the Carolinas and spend time with other people who enjoy trail
riding. The Club frequently conducts group trail riding adventures to
various public riding areas in the southeast, National Dual Sport Trail
Rides and more.
As a club member you receive The Blue Ridge Pathfinder, our official
newsletter, is published monthly, and contains details of past rides and
happenings, plus provides a calendar of events to keep members informed
of upcoming work days, planned rides, races, and other items of interest.
Members can also place free classified ads for bikes, parts, apparel and
accessories.
You also receive a membership directory that lists each club member,
where they are from, their phone number, type of riding preferred and
best times for riding. In the directory you will find maps and directions
to the a variety of riding areas in the Carolinas and Virginia. The
directory features ads for our Commercial Members so that you can support
the businesses that support us. You may receive discounts on parts and
products from select dealers.
Dues provide the essential resources with which club activities are
conducted and for:
ò Maintenance and improvement of:
TNT Motorsports Park
The Wayehutta OHV Area
The Brown Mountain OHV Area
The Uwharrie OHV Trail System
ò Publication and distribution our monthly newsletter
ò Publication and distribution of our Membership Directory.
ò Expenses for members to attend workshops and conferences vital to the
clubÆs activities.
ò Video tapes and training materials for teaching safe, responsible
riding and more!
Here are the addresses and phone numbers for the legal, public riding
areas in North Carolina.
Brown Mountain OHV Area (828) 652-2144
U.S. Forest Service
Grandfather District
Rt. 1 Box 110-A
Nebo, NC 28761-9707
T-N-T Motorsports Park (803) 482-4759
Jimmy and Barbara Parrish
Rt. 1 Box 77
Richburg, SC 29729
The Upper Tellico OHV Area (828) 837-5152
U.S. Forest Service
Tusquitee Ranger District
201 Woodland Drive
Murphy, NC 28906
Uwharrie OHV Trails (910) 576-6391
District Ranger
U.S. Forest Service
Route 3, Box 470
Troy, NC 27371
Wayehutta OHV Area (828) 526-3765
U.S. Forest Service
Highlands District
Rt. 1 Box 247
Highlands, NC 28741
Since you live in S.C., I highly recommend that your get involved in the
South Carolina Off-Road Enthusiast (SCORE), South Carolina's state OHV
association, and one of it's member clubs such as:
Columbia Enduro Riders Association
Skip Wyman (803)356-4556
Family Riders Motorcycle Club
Mike Smith (843)552-7419
Greenville Enduro Riders
Larry Griffin (864)859-1476
Long Cane Enduro Associaton
Jack Lenning (864)229-2369
Sumter Enduro Riders Motorcycle Association
Johnny McCoy (803)481-5169
You can visit SCORE's website at: http://www.travel.to/score
If you will send me your mailing address, I will be more than happy to
send you an information packet about The Blue Ridge Pathfinders and The
North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle Association (NOVA), including a
membership apllication, in the mail. Let me know if I can be of help.
Happy trails,
C. Al Roof
Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure Ride
Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
Office Manager/Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia
Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
Association, Inc.
Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
Conservation Council, Inc.
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From: David Wagner <david.wagner@siemens.at>
Subject: (dr) Driving in Bolivia
Date: 31 May 2000 14:32:26 +0200
Does someone know what happens if one tanks leaded fuel in a DR 350 SE
1999. I will drive in Bolivia, and I'm not sure if I alway get unleaded
fuel. As the
octane can be quite low in Bolivia, shoul I take a bottle of octane
booster or mount a thiker cylinder head sealing so that the compression
is not too high! Any tip on this is appreciated!
Thanks!
PS: Do you think a Scott Oiler is it worth?
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Gregory D. Pink" <gpink@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: (dr) Looking for Hepco Becker Panniers
Date: 31 May 2000 14:32:13 -0400
Howdy. Trying to find a set of Hepco Becker Panniers has been a real
experience so far. Ride West BMW, which is supposed to be a distributor,
doesn't have a clue. My German is not sehr gut so reading the Hepco site is
problematic. Does anyone have any suggestions? This would be for a 1990
Suzuki DR650. TIA
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From: Rainer.Knape.SGG@t-online.de (Rainer Knape)
Subject: Re: (dr) Looking for Hepco Becker Panniers
Date: 31 May 2000 22:51:26 +0200
Gregory,
I can not help you with your local dealers, but I can help you with the german
Hepco sites or get other information for you.
Just tell me what info you need, what kind of 'pannier rack' (not shure about
the english word) you use to mount the panniers on ...
Rainer
(Munich, Germany)
"Gregory D. Pink" schrieb:
> Howdy. Trying to find a set of Hepco Becker Panniers has been a real
> experience so far. Ride West BMW, which is supposed to be a distributor,
> doesn't have a clue. My German is not sehr gut so reading the Hepco site is
> problematic. Does anyone have any suggestions? This would be for a 1990
> Suzuki DR650. TIA
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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From: "Chris &/or Sheila Beauchemin" <beauchemin@telus.net>
Subject: (dr) Re: Driving in Bolivia
Date: 31 May 2000 21:00:29 -0700
Hi David,
My wife and I were travelling in South America (Chile, Argentina, Bolivia,
and Peru) in 1998 (I was on a XR650L and my wife on a DR650SE) for six
months. We never had any fuel trouble, other than running out several times
in Patagonia! I remember specifically that unleaded fuel was easily
available in Bolivia, and besides, leaded fuel won't hurt anyway.
I believe that the compression ratio on the '96 or newer DR650 is similar to
the ratio on the DR350, and we never had any problem anywhere in South
America with the 650, so I wouldn't worry about it.
I would definitely recommend a Scottoiler for travelling - worth every
penny! It was the one modification
that we did not do that I wish we had done.
Hope this helps,
Chris
> Does someone know what happens if one tanks leaded fuel in a DR 350 SE
> 1999. I will drive in Bolivia, and I'm not sure if I alway get unleaded
> fuel. As the
> octane can be quite low in Bolivia, shoul I take a bottle of octane
> booster or mount a thiker cylinder head sealing so that the compression
> is not too high! Any tip on this is appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
>
> PS: Do you think a Scott Oiler is it worth?
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