The Hacker's Encyclopedia 1998

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============================================================================== RELEASED ON 10/01/91 ============================================================================== :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::####::::::::::::::::::::::::::####################################::: ::::::::##### ###:####:#######:######::::### ...............................:: :::::::###### ### #### :#### .### ####:::### ###:####:######:######:#######::: ::::::### ### ### #### :#### :### #### ::### ### #### :......:......:#### ..:: :::::### .### ######## :#### :######## ::### ######## #####::#####:::#### :::: ::::### .:### :.##### .:#### ::###### .::### ### #### ### ..:### ..::#### :::: :::### .::### :::.....:::....:::......:::### ### #### ######:### ::::#### :::: ::### .::::################################ .:...:....:......:...:::::....:::: :::...::::::................................:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::A:::P:R:A:C:T:I:C:A:L:::A:P:P:R:O:A:C:H:::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::.:::.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:::.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ============================================================================== CREATED, WRITTEN, AND TESTED BY VIDEO VINDICATOR ============================================================================== INTRODUCTION ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hello and welcome to ANOTHER file by yours truely. I'm especially proud of my wonderful ASCII art up there... Nothing had to be misspelled this time! As with all my files, I have taken great care to test almost all the methods described herein. I myself have been very successful at defrauding through auto theft, and I feel that you show the initiative to do the same. How can I tell this? Well, for one, you're reading my file, and since you're reading this my guess is also that you are a criminal, so you to have the power. In this peticular file, I pull some material out of the book "The Outlaw Papers" by Lee Lapin and published through Palidan Press. If this has sparked your intrest enough, but you want to know even more nuances of the trade, and some of the old styles that no longer work, then DEFINANTLY get this book. Now the objective of this file is for you not to get a car for free, but to spend very little on getting a very expensive car. No matter how you do it you'll have to at least spend SOME money, so don't say I didn't tell you. Towards the end I cover some of the basics that apply to motorcycle theft, but they are VERY similar and I hope you are smart enought to figure out in what ways they are. And, once again, it's time for my disclaimer: I Claim that all the herein describes the illegal and immoral methods of the aforestated topic. Any resemblence, applied or real, to any living or dead person is purely coincidence, but if it occures, please leave me mail with his name, address, DOB, SSN, Visa and MC Numbers, and any other pertainant information. I take full responsibility for any illegal use found herein, but none of those found hereout. Please do not continue unless you are breathing and have some idea of what this file applies towards the herein title of the predescribed person. Thank you for your time. A BASIC OVERVIEW ON THEFT IN GENERAL ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hell, I've always like the idea of taking something from someone else if they don't take the proper precautions... Survival of the fitesst, right? Well, this won't get you on the good side of the judge, but who ever liked those goody- goody's anyways. Auto Theft, like any crime, should be done as quickly and quietly as possible... You should make sure you know all of the movements of anyone or anything that could jepordise your mission, and plan for the anything to happed, especially the worst. It never hurt to plan ahead! Make sure to involve as few people as possible, and tell no one of what you're doing, the more people who know, they more likely you'll get popped. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES. I cannot stress enough the importance of this, and also use 220 grit sandpaper and sand the fingertips of the gloves each time, they can match glove leather patterns (they're just like fingerprints)!!! Most people don't realize this, and it can be your downfall. Also, if the cops do somehow come onto your trail, deny everything to the bitter end, cops are lying cheating bastards, and most of them are more devious than even you (I think most of them were criminals in their youth, and then decide they could commit crimes more easily if they were pigs). The cop is your enemy and will do everything in his power to intimidate and trick all the info he can out of you. GET A LAWYER AND KEEP YOUR MOUTH -SHUT-. You'll get away with just about anything if you just use your common sence and follow the above rule. Cops CANNOT make deals (you should know this already, because EVERYBODY says it), so don't fall for their bullshit. Like DRU says, KILL! KILL! KILL! Theft is a very risky business, but as with all ciminal activities, it's very fun and very profitable, in a very short time. That is why so many people out there commit crimes. Now realize this, you have intelligence on your side, which makes you a hell of a lot more dangerous than your average run-of-the- mill criminals, who bairly can tie their own shoes. Use this knowledge and your talent on the computer to the best of your abilities. One file that is old old old, but is still sooo true (Tap Issue #86, or the Book of Bioc #1), and I quote "V. IF THOU BE IN SCHOOL, STRIVE TO GET THIN SELF GOOD GRADES, FOR THE AUTHORITIES WELL KNOW THAT SCHOLARS NEVER BREAK THE LAW." [The 10 Commandments] WHY EVIL PEOPLE STEAL CARS ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Why do such evil scum people steal cars you ask? Well, there it's usually one of four reasons... TRANSPORTATION - In which case it's usually dumped after it's served some short term function PARTS - Meaning the car is striped and the parts are then sold CONVERSION - Changing the numbers to match some other car, then selling it to some poor chump INSURANCE FRAUD - (Ya!) Taking the car with owners permission to not only make money from parting it out, but the insurance claim as well. Also known as 'Friendly Thefts' For the most part, you'll probably be stealing them for conversion, or maybe transportation, but parting a car out usually means you have alot of people around town that will pay good money and ask very few questions. Also you not only need the tools to take the car apart, but a place to do it, and then a place to dump the frame and whatever else is unused. GAINING ENTRY TO THE CAR ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Slim Jim is still the most common form of entry to cars. These can either be madem, or purchased at any automobile or lock smith 'collector' stores. Many of the newer cars are attempting to get around this by putting a steal plate over the locking mechanism, but already there is a new slim jim out that can get around this slight inconvienience. If you do decide that you want to make one, there are lots of files out there that will tell you how to make the older of the two, but it still will open around 80% of the cars out there. Also, make sure to try it on a car that is the same model beforehand, so you can get a hang of how to do it. Lock picks can be used, but this seems to be a teadious way at best to gain entry into the car. I know from experience that trying to pick a lock can take anywhere from a minute to half an hour. Another of the more useful ways is to purchase a ring of keys from a lock smith, that covers a certain range and make of car, like Fords from 1980 to 1990. A ring usually includes 100 to 140 keys, and will open ANY car within that range and make. The only disadvantage to this method is that it's a bit of a hastle carring around soooo many damn keys, and it does take a while to go through the ring and find the right one. This method has already been defeated by the 1990+ year Chevrolets', which now include a chip on them, and the car won't start without the properly coded chip... Here's the real bitch of this, it cuts all power to the car under a failed attempt, and can not be bypassed. One new device is known as the Lemon Pop, and incorporates a piece of plastic or venetian blind to slip inbetween the molding and the top of the window on Mercedes, Porche's, or other push-button locking cars. A loop of waxed dental floss is then looped around the post on the door and by yanking on the dental floss it is simple to unlock the door. AN OVERVIEW OF ALL THE TOOLS AND COSTS ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Ok, here is an overview of most of the tools you will want to get, along with a general idea of the costs involved, plus their worth (rated on a scale from 1 to 10, 10 being the best): WORTH ITEM DESCRIPTION PRICE CR/BK WHERE TO LOCATE ----+-----------------------+--------+-----+---------------------------------- (1) Manufacturer Key Rings $150-up 8/0 At dealership or locksmith comps. (2) Slide Hammer $50-100 8/10 A car repair shop or tool shop. (3) Slim Jim (Both Vers) $50-150 8/0 Most mailorder locksmiths. (4) Lock Picks (Spec. Car) $200-up 5/5 Most mailorder locksmiths. (5) Lemon Pop $10-down 6/0 Build it yourself, it's basic. (6) Gloves (DON'T FORGET!) $25-up 10/10 Get a good pair! (7) Drill/Special Bit $150-up 8/0 Most mailorder locksmiths. (8) Liquid Freon $25-50 6/0 Any car supply store. Ok, the WORTH CR/BK area means the worth for CARS and BIKES. The liquid Freon is one thing I didn't touch on, but it's really simple. All you do is spray it on those little mercury switches, and it will disable them for around 30 to 60 seconds, more then enough time to diable the alarm (also take into account the +15 secs it takes to reset!). One note on all the mailorder locksmith companies, almost NONE of them accept Visa or MC, so forget about carding from them. They also will sell only to locksmiths... "That sucks!" you say? Well, not really, since they have no way to check if you really are what you say you are. Just rent a PO Box from a place like Mailboxes, Etc and call it Jimbo's Lock Service, 1234 Generic Ln Suite #120, Loserville, WY. They won't even think twice. Remember that picking locks on cars is COMPLETELY different from picking normal home locks, so it's usually wise to pick up books from these places to learn how (believe me, no gfile is going to teach you shit unless it's like 100k and filled with nice .GIF pics for you to refer to!). STARTING THE CAR ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ There are lots of files about hotwiring cars already, so if you want to learn how to do that, pick one of them up. I never was very good at that anyways (I always got a fucking shock). If you do decide to use the key-ring method of entry, you will have the key to the ignition (they are the same), so then just slip it in and turn. A real advantage to this also is later on this really fulfils the image that you actually do own the car. The only other way I know of is to buy a slide-hammer (or a dent-puller, whatever you like to call it), and use it. First screw it into the key slot and then slam it out. Take a screwdriver and turn the little explosed tri- angle thing, and wala, the car starts. Cars with locked steering columns can be defeated by one of a number of devices on the market, like the SideKick. This incorporates a small drill bit in order to drill into the core of the lock, and a device to then extract the lock. Operation of this with a portable drill requires about two minutes to remove the lock from the steering column. DEFEATING CAR ALARMS ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Alarms are a kind of joke, they give the owner a great false sense of security and they will do things normal drivers wouldn't (since the ASSUME the vehicle is safe). And they will park them in very risky locations, and give you all the opporunities you need. One note for people who live in cities like SF, or any hilly city... Most alarms won't work on a hill, and will simply active, but not take input from the sensors... An easy kill. Also, about 35% of the alarms out there are fake, so if it's some wierd brand you've never encountered before, or it says something like "WARNING: AUTO THEFT DEVICE", you can almost always ignore these feeble attempts at security. Also look inside the vehicles that do have real alarms to see if the LED is flashing... Alot of these losers will buy the damn alarm and never arm it! Lot of good that is! All alarms have some inherant weakness, the key to overcoming them is just to find this and then exploit it as best you can. One of the most common weaknesses in all alarms, except the more expensive, is a lack of an internal power supply. What this means, is that if you cut the vehicle from the battery, then follow the leads until you find where the alarm comes in and disconnect it, you'll completely bypass it. Alot of the alarms on the market protect the interior of the car, but not the hoop/engine area (like the Clifford). Some do cover the entire vehicle, like the Viper or the Clifford with the proximity sensor, but very few have the latter, and you know when you run into a Viper. One fatal weakness that almost everyone that has an alarm does is plaster the name of the peticular model all over the car. They feel that this will ward off any car theif... They would have spent their money more wisely on stickers with the cross on them, and hoping God would protect the car. All this does is help you overcome the alarm, by identifing what the maker is! Once you know who makes it, all it takes is a little research at your local car sterio dealership to find out it's weaknesses. I found it best to ask the salesman what he has heard about other alarms, and that you're interested in buying the Viper. He'll see the commission (shit, most of the time you can practically see the dollar signs in their eyes) and spill all he knows or has heard negative about every other system you bring up. One slick little trick that works on some of the more expensive alarms (like the Viper) is if you take a jack and lift the car about 1 1/2 - 2 feet off of the ground it will disable the alarm (since it thinks it's getting towed, and it would suck to go pick up your impounded car just to find your battery dead because of the lame alarm). This is usually a very successful method. VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS (VIN's) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here's a little background on these numbers which all cars have. VIN numbers traditionally were subject to the variances of the individual manufacturers with regard to their makeup as well as the physical chars. of the VIN plate. In 1978, the NHTSA (Nation Highway Traffic Safty Admin.) set up rules to define a uniform standard for VIN numbers. The standard requires a 17-character fixed format VIN, which contains an internal check digit to verify the accuracy of the number. VIN numbers are not only stamped into the metal plates, but embossed, making it very difficult to forge. Modern VIN numbers are mounted on a plate that corresponds exactly with the dashboard color of the car. As a further safe- guard, all VIN's are mounted with special rivets. These vary from square, to triangles, to hexagons in shape, but as a rule are not available to sell to the general public. Almost all DMV employee's have a book called the "Passenger Vehicle Identification Manual", which has high-glossy photos of all the VIN plates, and notes on how to decrypt each specific manufatures. This manual is sold ONLY to law enforcement personnel, and is worth QUITE alot to any interested party (for obvious reasons). This book also contains the hidden locations of the VIN's. In 1970, most vehicle manufacturers were hiding the VIN numbers all over the cars. Some common locations are: on the bottom of the ashtray, under the hood, under the trunk lid, in one or more door panels, or underneath the dash. Besides the VIN numbers there is a frame number stamped into the frame of the car, motor, and transmission, which all cross-check with the origional VIN. Because VIN numbers are only as good as they are inspected, many states require inspection only by law enforcement personnel. See REGISTERING THE CAR for more information on this aspect of VIN's. One half-ass way of forging a VIN is to take a Dymo-labeler which embosses numbers onto plastic tape, and then glueing it in the proper location. If not placed under close scruteny, this method will usually pass the casual observer. VEHICLE CONVERSION ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ In most cases, what you do is swap the VIN and engine number with those of an identical make/model that was wrecked. Ok, first off you go to a big Auto wrecking yard, and ask for that specific make and model. Most good places will have a part-line if they don't have it, and usually can get it for you within 48 hours. Since it really doesn't matter what shape the car is in, try to get the most trashed one you can (since it will most likely be quite a bit cheaper). Then, when you take possesion of the frame and whatever else remains, they give you the pink slip to the piece of trash. In your hands you're holding the pink slip to the car you just stole. Now go through the car and swap the VIN's with the numbers off of the other car. If you're lucky, the other car will still have the origional VIN on the dash and you can just cut it off and epoxy (don't glue it) to the dash. Make sure to use a cooping saw of something like that in order to cur it, soas not to damage the sides or the tops of the rivets. This is the most important thing, because if you get pulled over, and for SOME reason (it's never has happened to me (or at least not with cars)) they check the VIN's they will only look at that one, and it will check out. Boom, you just scored a new car. LOCATING THE TARGET CAR ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Thereare many different ways in which to actually gain possession of the car. You just have to see which one best suites you and what you hope to accomplish. One good method is to break into cars at airport long-term parking. These cars are left by their owners, for a good period of time, usually enough for you to do all the nessecary changes before the car even shows up as stolen on the polices computer (since the guy has to come back and discover the car gone before he can report it stolen). Another good method is to look through the For Sale portion of the news- paper, and pick whatever car you are specifically looking for, then schedule a time when you can go look at the car. At this time you can evaluate the security system (if any) on the car, and judge it's worth. Then, wait around a week or two and then go steal it. Another advantage of this is you can get an idea of the persons work schedule when you try to set up a time to meet. You can also follow the person to see when the best time would be to make an attempt on the car. Used car dealership and new car dealerships sometimes leave the key to the car in either the glove compartment, sun visor, or door-map thingy. If this is the case, go look at the cars during the day, take the key, then return several days later with the keys and take the car. Make sure to take a bolt- cutter to cut the wire most dealerships put up across the wire. No reason to wreck that nice new car yet. One thing to always keep in mind is it's better to steal a car from as far away as possible, this way if the owner is trucking around, he doesn't have much of a chance seeing it. The last thing you want is Joe Owner running down the street after you screaming "Hey! That's my car!". REGISTERING THE CAR ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ After you have renumbered the VIN's on the car, it's time to get it registered in whatever state you live in. Actually, you want to do this step BEFORE you renumber the VIN's, so you know where it's located on the vehicle. Enclosed below is a list of all the states and their peticular registration requirements... INSPECTION REQ. ON ALL CARS : Kansas, Maine (1975+), Mississippi, Nevada INSPECTION REQ. ON SELECT CASES - First Time/New Cars Alaska, Arizona, Dist. of Columbia, Idaho, Iowa, Kentucky, Wisconsin, New Hampsire Used Cars : Maryland, Massachusetts Out-of-State Cars : California, Colorado, Conneticut, Delaware, Hawaii (ya), New Mexico, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Utah, Washington From Non-Title States : Georgia When discrepancies are noted: Michigan, New York INSPECTION REQ. NO CONDITIONS : Arkansas, Minnesota, Rhode Island, Wyoming OWNER RESPONSIBLE FOR INSPECTION : New Jersey, Virgina INSPECTION NOT REQUIRED : Illinois, Louisiana, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, North Carolina, South Carolina, South Dakota, Texas, Tennessee NO INFORMATION LISTED ON INSPECT.: West Virginia Now I know that in California (one of the hardest), when you take your car in they do what's called a Vehicle Verification, and they have this nice little paper they fill out. Now, registration is not the only time that you need to get a VV done... Some insurance companies require you to go to the DMV and get one as well. This is your key to forging whatever you want. First go inside, and request some blank ones (get like 5), then leave and drive your car over by where people take tests. Now wait for a DMV loser to come out and check your vehicle. After they go through (take note of where all the VIN's were located) get the VV and go home. Now you have a copy the way it SHOULD be filled out, so just fill out one of the blanks with the info you want and submit it, believe me, no questions will be asked at the ever-busy DMV. I personally would register it under a fake name, and then either sell it to someone, or make a phony sale to your real identitiy, thus covering up any trail that might have pointed to you. SELLING THE CAR ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ You've pretty much overcame the hard part, and now it's all downhill. To sell the car, simply put an add in the paper, and ask a price a little less that the going rate, but not so low as to draw attention to it. A new key-ignition and lock system can be purchased at your dealership for around $100 or maybe a little more (depending on how messy you were). The best way to do it usually is this: Use the 140-key keyring to find the proper key. Make a copy of it (so as not to break your set), and then go down to the dealership and buy a new key-ignition. This way you save a little money and still have the key [Note: you do this when you used a slim jim to gain entry, then a slide-hammer to start it]. Replacing the locks in the doors and trunk can be a real bitch (well, the trunk isn't, but the doors sure as hell are), so I usually try to avoid this drastic measure. RENTAL CAR SCAM - NO TITLE STATES ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ In no title states, you can sell any car without having the actual pink slip. The idea behind this is that the DMV will save alot of paperwork since the car was already checked when it was purchased or brought into the state. If you want to know if your peticular state is a no title or not, just call the DMV and ask... Simple as that. Anyways, one total scam is to go to a car rental place, and rent one under a fake name. Then, remove all the stickers that say the name of the rental place, and use Energine to remove the difference in color/paint below. Then you take it to a used car dealership and sell it to them! They will check with the NCIC to make sure the car isn't stole (which, of course, it won't be because you just rented it), then take the check to a bank and cash it under the same fake name. Even if your ID is a piece-of-shit, the used car guy will call up and verify it, so it will go through. Then, in a week or so the rental car place reports it stolen, and wham, the used car dealership gets burned bigtime! INSURANCE FRAUD AND YOU ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ This is usually done when you already own a car, stolen or real, and then claim it was stolen, or was in a wreck to get the money from your local bend- over-and-smile insurance company. The way I feel about insurance is this: You put in tons of money to this worthless company to pay for your shit when it gets ripped off, so why not use it to it's full advantage. The best way to do insurance fraud is to find your local chop-shop and sell them your car, then call the cops and report it stolen. Make sure you have ALL your facts straight when you do this, because the cops will think somethings up if you aren't careful, and then you're out the car AND the cash. One good point to this is to make a dup of the key, then give it to the chop-shop, set up a time and a spot for them to come pick up the car (like at a mall, at 2:00, when it is totally busy), then when you're in the mall with your friends (witnesses) you leave to find your car gone... Now who could possibly do such a terrible thing? The key thing on this is to make sure you've had the insurance for some time, and that you have it paid up, because believe me, they will drop you like a hot potato. Insurance fraud is especially good with motorcycles, since they are so easy to get rid of, and can be parted off so easily. NOTES ON INSURANCE FRAUD ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Well, if you decide you like the idea of getting your car replaced by the stupid insurance companies, heres a little info on how they classify insurance reports. They break them up into four different categories: caused, intended, staged, and paper (these are all fraudulant ways, there is of course the real classification, when it really was stolen or whatever). CAUSED - It's a sort of demolition derby, in which the participants ride around in some piece of shit and look for well-insured victims to collide with. Good victims are a bus, taxicab, or a new expensive car. One excellent method of this is called the 'Swoop-and-Squat' method, in which two evil cars surround an honest, upright citizen. Bad guy number two then swoops in frout of bad guy number one, and he brakes suddenly (refered to as squating). Bad guys number one breaking then causes our poor victim to slam into the back of him... In any caused accident there are usually several people riding in the car who all have whiplash or brain damage or whatever so they all claim medical injuries and scam the insurance for the cost plus loss of work, The medical bills are then faked and submitted to the stupid Insurance company, and you recieve a nice, fat check. INTENDED - It's when two or more cars are used in a planned collision. All of the participants are defrauders; and they usually use rental cars in this scam. STAGED - There is no real collision in this scam. The evil people set up a fake wreck, complete with banged-up junkers, broken glass, dead bodies, whatever, and take pictures as evidence to submit to the insurance companies. These are usually discovered though, because the same cars are used in many accidents and the investigator might recognize one. PAPER - Much like a variation of the Paper car technique of auto theft, the paper insurance scam involves you creating a fake car in a state that does not require an inspection of the vehicle. Then after you pay insurance on the non-existant vehicle for two or three months you report it stolen and get the money. INSURANCE FRAUD INDICATORS ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here's a list of insurance fraud indicators (taken from the book 'Money for Nothing') which will hopefully help you in becoming less suspicious. Fraud may be indicated when a claimant or insured is: o Overly eager for a speady settlement. o Unusually eager to take the blame for the accident. o Exceptionally coversant (well versed) with insurance, medical, or vehicle repair terminology. o Insistent that the claimant caused the accident (The ICPI then suspects that the insured is playing along with the ring of evil-do'ers who staged the accident. General elements that point indirectly to fraud are: o A rental vehicle was involved in the accident. o The vehicle in the claim contains three or more unrelated people when it is struck. o The police report was not made at the scene of the accident, or there was no police report made (believe me, they do check). o The accident happened soon after one or more of the vehicles involved was registered and insured; or a month or less before the policy was due to expire; or soon after insurance coverage was increased to include comprehensive and collision. o A post-office box or hotel is given as an address for one or more of the claimants o The claimant shows an active claim histore (meaning they have been in one or more wrecks within the last five to ten years. Property damage fraud or inflation may be indicated when: o All of the vehicles involved in the accident are taken to the same shop to be repaired. o The accident is major, but there are no subjectively diagnosed injuries. o The collision is minor, but the repair costs are high. o Although the vehicle could not have been driven away from the scene of the accident, according to the police record and the vehicle was not at scene of the crime; with no towing fees. o Bodyshop employee's or owner discourage an insurance appraiser from looking at a vehicle involved in the accident. Medical fraud may be suspected when: o All medical injuries are those called subjective diagnosed, including headaches, whiplash, and muscle spasms. o The medical bills submitted are photocopies, especially third or fourth generation. o The collision is minor, but the injuries, especially subjectively diagnosed injuries, are excessive. o The medical bills submitted to not itemize office visits and treatments. Lost earnings claims may be inflated when: o The submitted employment information is from a small business, especially a business with a post-office box as an address. o When the business phone number given to the claim is called, it is an answering machine or service. o The claimant started the job just before the accident. o The statement of lost earnings was not typed up on the company letterhead. o The lost earnings statement has items which do not concur with elements of the claim; for example, the income earned my not be appropriate to the neighborhood listed. This list is by no means complete, but it gives you a general idea of what is going to make an investigator look twice. Be causious, since I know for a fact that some insurance companies hire people to watch you 24 hours a day for MONTHS! This may seem extreme, but realize this, one bust deters a hundred people from attempting it (at least). THE MOTORCYCLE AND THEFT ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The methods which you employ when stealing a motorcycle are very similiar to those of a car, except everything is alot simplier. Most motorcycles have VIN numbers located under the seat, on the front of the bike between the forks, and on a plate on the side of the frame (a sticker). Now I found the easies way to renumber a bike is this, simply take the sticker off that is under the seat, take the sticker off the side of the bike, and put the other bike's sticker on over the VIN which is stamped on the frame between the forks. Then follow the normale registration procedure. Some of the advantages of motorcycles are the fact they are alot easier to sell due to the fact of the lesser price tag, and the fact that if you get chased a normal police car doesn't have a chance in hell of catching you. It is also very easy to part out a bike on your own, without even dealing with a middleman. Simply steal a bike that matches the same model as a pick that you have, then any salvage shop will by the parts from you (as long as you can prove you own that peticular model bike). You can easily sell the farings (the plastic which cover the bike, for all you non-bike losers) for around $1000, since they carry a value of $1500+! That's a pretty penny, and you've still got TONS of parts left over to sell. Believe me, bike parts cost a fortune. You can strip a bike completely, then sell the frame of any standard delta- box bike (like the GSX-R's, FZR's, ZX-series, CBR's, etc) to your local re- cycler, since it's all alluminum (worth around $100-150). Not only are you helping your pocket, but the environment as well, and we all really give a shit about the world. Starting the bike is simple as well, except for '88 or earlier Suzuki GSXRs since they have a seperate lock in the forks (why they discontinued this I'll never know). All you need to do is one of the following: o If the bike is locked, use a slidehammer, screw it into the ignition, slam it out, put a screwdriver in the hole and turn to the right. This will unlock and start the bike. o If the bike is unlocked, force a screwdriver in the keyhole, and turn to the right. o If the bike is unlocked, and you buy a ignition system for this model, disconnect the real ignition system, plug in yours and turn the key. The leads should be right behind the instrument cluster and relatively easy to gain access to... Now the parts you would be smart to buy beforehand are the following: o A new instrument cluster (price $150 and up). This will give the bike a new mileage. o A key ignition set (price $200 and up). This will replace all the locks in the bike with new ones (which you have the key for). o New farings (price $1400 and up). Sell the origional farings for the same year different color scheme. Most bike manufacturers make 2 to 3 different color bikes. o An instruction book on the specific bike (price $20 and up). These damn books aren't cheap, but they will give you a good overview of the bikes security, plus the location of the VIN's. The biggest negative factor in stealing bike is this (just as your life was getting easy): The also check the Motor Number when registering it. This is a real bitch to change, and is usually easier to just forge the paperwork on. A cop will never check this when you get pulled over (although they will sometimes do spot checks on the VIN's). Wait at least two months before you try to sell it (if you aren't going to part it out), believe me, all owners will recognize their bikes and will be looking for them. Most people don't have insurance that covers theft, so they're out of luck. Whatever you do, don't sand down the faring and spray-paint it... Not only does this FUCK the value, but every cop in the world knows thats what losers do when they steal bikes. ONE FINAL NOTE: THE LAW AND YOU ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One little trick of the law with car theft is this. If they catch you in the car, there is no way of conning your way out of it, so manipulate the situation to your advantage. Tell them you just bought the car, and if they ask to see the bill of sale, ALWAYS have one ready ahead of time. They can't through you in jail for being stupid, and you really have no way of checking to see if the car is stolen until you actually go to the DMV. In a worst case scenerio this will get you a Possesion of a Stolen Vehicle charge, or maybe a Joyriding (depending on the length of time the car is gone), but either of these is ALOT better than Grand Theft Auto. Remember that like all crimes, your age (specifically if under 18) is your free get-out-of-jail card. No matter how many mistakes you make they still will only slap your wrist (and don't give me that shit that juvenile hall is hell, because it's not). Steal, Lie, and Cheat as much as you can, while you still can, and you'll live a much happier life. Chop shops are frowned upon heavily by the law, and if at all possible try to give as little of your true identity away to these individuals. They are the real high-risk takers, since if the cops hit something, they tend to hit the big operations (which almost always revolve around a chop shop). Also keep in mind that the police do also set up traps off and on, if there is enough of a problem, and that the trap will be in the form of a chop shop. Also, one reason not to include others in when busted (roughly translated, why not to narc) is the fact that they with punish you twice as much if they have any proof that it was some sort of auto theft ring (and the police consider a ring to consist of two or more peope). So don't be lame, keep your mouth shut. OTHER FILES COMING SOON ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ CBI ACCOUNTS & LOCATION HELPER - Lists alot of the CBI accounts NUMBER TWO and their appropriate companies. Also includes a more complete breakdown of how to decrypt acnts. RELEASE DATE AROUND 10/91 THE COMPLETE CBI MANUAL - Will be a compilation of many sources on the different uses of CBI. Will cover ALL aspects of CBI, from logon procedures to pullup types! RELEASE DATE AROUND 10/91 IDENTITY HOPING, FOR FUN & PROFIT - Will cover how to take over PART ONE someones identity, and do eveything from get an ID to getting loans! RELEASE DATE AROUND 11/91 IDENTITY HOPING, FOR FUN & PROFIT - Will cover methods of forging ID's PART TWO and the auxilliary documents you need. It will also include a directory of mailorder ID companies! RELEASE DATE AROUND 12/91 WHERE TO GET EXOTIC WEAPONS - Update to my origional file, with more NUMBER TWO exotic weapons than ever before! RELEASE DATE AROUND 12/91 Catch these and more on the way at any of the BBS's listed below! They will definantly get them first... CONCLUSION ~~~~~~~~~~ I hope this file helps you in all your most illegal exploits, and I hope to see you on America's Most Wanted, or Unsolved Mysteries... Here's a wierd question for you, Just what kind of a show is Unsolved Mysteries? I always thought it was supposed to be like a 'Project: Blue Book' type show, talking about wierd occurances, but ever time I watch that stupid fucking show I see something around how Grandma got frauded by some love-swindler and now he's on the loose... What a joke! Wanna-be show! I'm always interested in new scams, or to hear of your experiences with any of the methods described within any of my files, so just get in touch with me. I also appreciate any ideas anyone can give me on other avenues of fraud to research (I love hacking as well, but there just isn't any money in it!) Anyways, enough of that, now for the ever-present greetings... The White Rider, Maximum Overdrive, Death Mage, Captain Zap, The Visionary, Phelix the Hack, /<ludge, Grandmaster Ratte', Strato Viper (who helped me test most of the methods described) and anyone else who I forgot, who was worth mentioning!! And just remember... "But I just bought it yesterday. Honestly officer!" ============================================================================= Demon Roach [PW: THRASH cDc Board - A Classic - GREAT] 3-24 806-794-4362 Scantronics [Dedicated to telecommunictions since 1987] 3-24 619-423-4852 The Works [Tons of Files cDc Board Give it a call ] 3-24 617-861-8976 ============================================================================= This concludes another wonderful file by Video Vindicator (C)opyright 1991 =============================================================================