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- Axon's wacky Hard Drive Clock
- (Considered a hack by some, and insanity by others...)
-
- Okay. I got REALLY bored one day at work when I figured this one out.
- I called it the "Hard Drive Clock". It wasn't some strange clock that you
- put on your hard drive or anything. It was a clock, made mostly out of
- hard drive parts and pieces.
-
- Things you'll need:
-
- A dead hard drive that doesn't work anymore
- Tools that can disassemble the hard drive without destruction
- A tube of cyanoacrillate (super glue)
- A Clock movement (with suitable length hands) from a hobby store.
- (Make sure it's suitable for a 3/4 inch thick clock face)
- At least one 3.5" floppy disk that you don't want anymore (It'll get ruined)
- A pair of needle-nose pliers
- About an hour of your time for the first one, less time as you get better
-
- Steps:
-
- The hard drive you choose is crucial. The first thing you will want to do
- is to look at the screws. Get any tools you need to take the thing apart.
- After that, remove the circuit board from the bottom of the drive, usually
- this exposes the drive motor for the platters of the hard drive. If the
- drive motor doesn't look like a separate piece of metal, then you might as
- well toss it or something, because it won't make a clock (at least this
- way). If it looks like it's a separate piece of metal, then you're in
- luck. Usually the screws are placed through the motor in such a way that
- you need the drive taken all the way apart before removing it. Leave it
- in for now.
-
- Take off the top cover of the hard drive. This usually takes a small
- star-shaped (torx) screwdriver, or (rarely) a phillips head. Make sure
- you take off any of the stickers that were on the drive, and look for
- other screws there, too. If the drive is equipped with such, savor every
- moment while destroying all of the "Warranty Void if broken" stickers.
- KEEP THE COVER INTACT! (We'll use it later)
-
- When you get the hard drive open, there will be an arm (read/write heads),
- some circuitry (which I leave inside the drive, it makes the clock look
- cooler), and the platters. You have to unscrew the screws near the center
- of the platters to take the platters off. These screws are usually torx
- head screws, and are usuallt way too small for any normal torx bits you
- can buy at the average auto-parts or hardware store. Sometimes electronic
- supply places will sell the bits, but I just use a REALLY high quality
- Phillips bit (one that comes to a really fine point, and isn't made of
- cheapo-o metal). If you press down hard enough while turning, the bit
- will catch the torx notches (be careful not to scratch up the platters,
- they need to look nice for the clock). You may want to have someon help
- you hold the platters still while you unscrew the screws, because the
- platters will rotate freely, making it a pain to take it apart.
-
- After you have the small round metal plate off from the top of the
- platters, they won't come off just yet. You also need to take out the
- Read/Write heads. With a knife or scissors, cut the ribbon cable that
- goes to the heads, close to where it meets the armature. There will be a
- metal plate over the side of the armature farthest from the platters.
- This metal plate houses a set of very strong magnets that are fun to play
- with, but keep them away from monitors, hard drives, floppies or whatnot
- (unless you WANT to ruin them...heh heh). Take the metal plate(s) off.
- They're held down by two screws, usually. In the center of where the
- armature pivots, there should be a notch that a nice-sized standard
- screwdriver will fit. It's like a bearing, but you can unscrew it like a
- normal screw. as you unscrew it and lift it up, pull the platters off at
- the same time so as to not scratch the platters from excessive force from
- the heads.
-
- Now, the screws that hold the drive motor should be in plain sight.
- Usually they are torx or phillips screws, very similar (or identical) to
- the ones that held the top cover on the hard drive. Take the drive motor
- out after removing the screws. There should be a hole at least half an
- inch in diameter, all the way through the base of the hard drive now
- (usually bigger, but it needs to be at least half an inch). This is the
- hole we will use to put the clock movement through.
-
- At this point, we're ready to put the hard drive back together (in a
- totally different way, with loads of spare parts afterwards). Start by
- super-gluing one platter back where it used to be, without the motor in
- place. This will be our clock face. Let it dry for a few minutes while
- you do the next step.
-
- Rip open the floppy disk. Mangle it, destroy it, whatever. All that we
- want is the little metal circle from the bottom center of the floppy.
- take off all the media (thin black plastic stuff) from the circle, and
- then make sure it won't fit through the hole in the hard drive platters.
- We will be using this to keep the clock movement in place. If the hole in
- the platter is too big, use something else. If the circle is big enough,
- take your needle-nose pliers, and open the small square in the center of
- it, so that it's big enough to barely fit the clock movement's shaft
- through.
-
- Use the needle nose pliers to GENTLY snap two of the arms off of the
- read/write armature. Try to get as much of the arm as you can. One of
- them will have to be shorter (it will be the hour hand, and the long one
- will be the minute hand).
-
- Take all the nuts off the clock movement's shaft, and then pass the clock
- movement's shaft through the hole in the back of the hard drive, and then
- line up the floppy disk circle. Place the circle on the clock movement,
- and fasten it into place with the nuts that you removed. Make sure it's a
- nice tight fit.
-
- Usually, the clock movement ships with hands for the clock. Take the
- minute hand, and superglue the long read-arm on to it. Make sure that you
- glue it in in such a manner that it covers the tip of the hand, leaving a
- little room on the part of the hand closest to where it will pivot if you
- have to. Do the same for the hour hand with the shorter read-arm. Let
- the glue dry.
-
- After the glue has become dry, install the hands onto the clock movement
- (instructions for this part come with the clock movement, and it varies
- between manufacturers). Make sure that the hands can rotate around the
- clock without catching each other (use the setting mechanism on the back
- of the movement to rotate the clock at least one hour's worth). Adjust
- arms (bend 'em a bit) if necessary.
-
- Right now, you probably have a working hard drive clock. I usually find
- some way to attach the top cover of the hard drive in a way so that it
- acts as a stand, to keep the clock upright. Use your creativity. Once
- you know how it will stand or hang, you may want to label the clock face
- (permanent marker DOES NOT WORK on most new hard drive platters. It will
- bead on the surface like water on a waxed car.) Use adhesive stickers or
- something else. I prefer to leave the clock face blank. I can still read
- the time that way, some people can't. The clock I made for my parents was
- labeled in binary. =]
-
- For a picture of the first prototype hard drive clock I made, see:
- http://axon.jccc.net/~axon/hdclock.jpg There is also a link to the
- graphic from my homepage and the HiR site under "Links"
-