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CD-ROM Aktief 1995 #3
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WELLS.002
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1992-10-15
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─ HOMEPOWR ─────────────────────────────────────────────────────── ECHOMAIL012 ─
Msg : 65 of 79 - 51 + 66
From : Daniel Klos 1:139/540 07 Oct 92 13:00:00
To : Chita Cazares
Subj : Self-sufficiency
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
I'm not positive if you were the one asking the question about
possible water supplies and wells.
I read some of your messages about your land and it's placement
in Baja about 12 miles from the ocean. You mentioned very sandy
soil. If your water table is within 30 feet from the surface
and it's sand all the way to the water table, you could try
driving a sand point. The sand point itself costs about $30
and you hook galvanized water pipe to it. You hammer the pipe
down ten feet and hook another section of pipe on. After you
are done, you could hook a small hand pump to the top and
pump away. It doesn't cost much to try. Make sure to have the
water tested by an american lab before drinking.
The safest way would probably have a well driller put in a
well with a 6" casing. You could either place a submersible pump
at the bottom of the well or hook up a Baker hand pump. Try
to stay away from 4" casings. Most pumps won't fit into a 4"
casing anymore.
You could use the pond water for showers and washing clothes
and use a sand point for drinking, cooking and washing dishes.
Sand points don't have a high continuous capacity.
One last point: It is possible that being within 12 miles of the
ocean and having alot of sand that you could hit salty water.
Just a thought.
--- GEcho 1.00/beta
* Origin: The First Step BBS.....Green Bay WI.....V.32bis (14.4) (1:139/540.0)
─ HOMEPOWR ─────────────────────────────────────────────────────── ECHOMAIL012 ─
Msg : 4 of 23 - 3 + 5
From : Jim Dunmyer 1:234/2 11 Oct 92 09:53:00
To : Daniel Klos
Subj : SELF-SUFFICIENCY
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
DK>you could try driving a sand point. The sand point itself costs about $30 an
DK>you hook galvanized water pipe to it. You hammer the pipe down ten feet and
DK>hook another section of pipe on. After you are done, you could hook a small
DK>hand pump to the top and pump away. It doesn't cost much to try. Make sure t
Dan,
I've installed a number of sand points both here and at neighbors', in
fact use one right now for water in my shop. You make a very good point
about getting it tested, especially if there are close neighbors and/or
a lot of livestock.
I've driven points as you described, using a driver consisting of a
piece of tubing with a big hunk of iron welded on the end. But, I've
found it much better to dig a hole with a posthole digger and drive the
point only the last foot or two, *after* I know where the water is. My
experience here is that the hole literally washes in when you're where
you need to be. If you just drive the point, you don't really know where
the good water sand is, plus you take a big chance on screwing things
up. The hammering damages the threads on the pipe and couplings; you
*must* put a wrench on it and tighten things up every few blows or
you'll loose your point!
Couple of more hints: use a coupling at the top, with a short (6" long)
nipple just under the "drive cap". You're likely to mess up the threads
at the cap/pipe juncture, and it's best to be able to unscrew that
nipple and discard it rather than try to thread the main pipe. Get your
pipe cut into 5" lengths, threaded and coupled, as it's much easier to
work off a short ladder than having to get 10' in the air with a sledge
hammer or a heavy driver. Make sure you use a pitcher pump to pump the
first water so as to not ruin your electric pump with the sand. Pour
stone around the point at the bottom of a dug hole to give a bit more
capacity in less-than-ideal ground. It's possible to "wash" a point into
the ground if you have a good water supply and a pump, etc. A drum of
water and the electric pump that you're going to use on the point will
do the job. You'll know when you hit the water sand because the point
will nearly "fall" down further.
My place has good, gray water sand, and I can pump a point with an
electric pump at a rate of 2 gallons per minute for hours on end. That's
not even close to the 10 gpm of my drilled well, but it's sure cheap to
install. A quick guesstimate would be less than $400.00 for a pump,
point, and pipe.
* SLMR 2.1a * A true friend knows who you are...but likes you anyway.
--- TMail v1.30.3
* Origin: Toledo's TBBS, Now 7 lines, 2+ gigs 313-854-6001 (1:234/2)
─ HOMEPOWR ─────────────────────────────────────────────────────── ECHOMAIL012 ─
Msg : 5 of 23 - 4 + 6
From : Dave Paxton 1:369/3 11 Oct 92 12:58:00
To : Chita Cazares
Subj : Self-sufficiency
────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
CC>pond and have it tested. I'm beginning to include considerable water
CC>purification in the house design. Tijuana - arguably the fastest growing
If nothing else the water should be chlorinated at or near the well and
then a sand filter would help.
CC>days each time) but somebody studied the water - two out of three wells were
CC>contaminated with industrial chemicals, including benzene. They have a
CC>different idea about those things...
Find out how deep the proposed 12" well is going to be. Usually the
local govt. will find the cleanest level that produces the most water.
That will give you an idea how deep your well should be to get away from
the polution, but you will have to have it checked a couple of times a
year. Chlorinating and sand filtering will not take industrial chemicals
out. If it is only a hundred to two hundred feet deep a windmill will
pump it quite easily.<SEE, I knew I could tie this into the topic of
home power, we are talking about a windmill here, wink> If your storage
tank is at a higher elevation than the house <the higher the better up
to 30 or 40 ft, then you have other problems> then no further pumping is
necessary.
I have no personal experience with them but I hear the small "rotory"
well drilling rigs that you can buy to put in your own well works pretty
good. The only rigs I have experience with is the "pounders" for putting
in galv. water pipe and the "rotory" rigs that put in PCV pipe up to 2'
diameter. By the way, the other post about the sand point didn't say it
but you don't drive on the end of the pipe with a hammer like it sounded
in the message, you screw a device that can be made of a pipe coupleing
with a thick piece of steel welded across the top of the coupleing to
drive on. Hitting the bare pipe would damage the threads you need to
screw the next piece of pipe to. The coupleing should be screwed on as
tight as you can by hand so that you are driveing good and solid on the
pipe. If you are useing a large weight with a piece of pipe or soild
steel shaft to go down the pipe to hold it on the pipe <I have seen
truck axels used with a large concrete weights poured on the piece that
the wheel bolts to> then just a coupleing to take the abuse but allow
the center piece of the hammer to slide in and out of the well pipe is
screwed on the pipe to protect the threads.I would suggest pvc pipe in a
well. I used steel in mine and the pipe is rusting thru and allowing too
much ground water into the well. They are only about 20 years old now
and already must be replaced. Also it would be