Of all clothing we have seen so far, shirts were entirely hand sewn until the advent of the sewing machine. They were cut without shaping at the armholes until the 1870s and opened only part way down the front. They were made with high collars until about 1860 when the separate collar came in. The collarless shirt shown here is an entirely homemade product from a farm in Elgin County, and was produced around 1860. The pleated yoke, which would show, is of finer linen than the rest of the shirt.
Both stocks and cravats were worn during the first half of the century. The stock shown here is 1840s in style and buckles at the back of the neck. It is composed of overlapping strips of satin and is stiffened with interlining. The shape allows a proper fit under the chin.
The cravat with the large embroidered bow is of yellow silk and was worn by the owner for his wedding in 1852. The ends go through a slot at the back and button together in front. Cravats, by this time, were becoming narrower and more of the shirt collar showed above. As this trend continued the collar was turned down over the cravat until, together, they evolved into the collar and tie we know today. Collars were starched by the 1850s and the advent of the separate collar made laundering easier.
Embroidered braces were favourable gifts for father, husband, or brother and were made up later to fit. This pair is worked with wools and edged with silk.
