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Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 1.
Contents:
2 Introduction
3 What Your Oven Can Do
3 A Little About the Dutch Oven
5 Other Things You Will Need
6 Prepairation of Your Oven
7 Cleaning Your Oven
8 A Few NO-NOs
9 Tips on Cooking Techniques
10 Measurements
10 Substitutions
12 Recipies
12 Beef Main Dishes
19 Chicken Main Dishes
23 Pork Main Dishes
25 Seafood Main Dishes
27 Veggies & Soups
29 Breads
30 Cakes, Cookies & Desserts
33 Breakfast Dishes
34 Miscelanious Dishes
35 Other Dishes
36 Index
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 2.
INTRODUCTION
The reason for this book is to provide reference material for an
individual who is planning or cooking a meal for six to ten people. For larger
groups, most of the recipies can be easily doubled or tripled and two or more
dutch ovens may be needed. Most of the information has been targeted toword
the first time dutch oven user, although, the more experienced cook may find a
tidbit or two here and there.
I hope this book will intice all of you potential dutch oven cooks to
"giv 'er a try" and you will see why I call them "man's best friend".
This book is intended to be reproduced by and for Boy Scout Troops, any
other use wheather or not used for profit is a violation of copyright laws and
is punishable by fines or imprisionment or both.
If you wish to contribute to the growing of this book, please send your
favorite recipies to me at the following address and I will give you and your
troop credit in the next issue:
Mike Audleman
1209 Beachview Dr.
Ft Walton Beach, Fl 32548
Ver 1, Rev 1.2 Aug 1989
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 3.
WHAT YOUR DUTCH OVEN CAN DO
Cooking techniques such as roasting, baking simmering, stewing, frying,
boiling, steaming, and many others are easly done on the campfire with only a
single utensil, the dutch oven. Think of the possibilities, delicious fresh
baked bread that will rise up and lift the lid, cobblers made from berries
picked fresh at the campsite, incredable deep-dish pizzas, stews, quishes that
melt in your mouth, cornish game hens roasted to perfection, and immagine a
chocolate cake a foot in diameter. These and many, many more are very possible
and sometimes easier than they are at home. With very few exceptions, I have
been able to duplicate my home recipes on the campfire using the dutch oven.
All recipes use one of two dutch oven techniques, cooking with your
dutch oven or cooking in it. The first is when the food is placed directly in
the bottom of the dutch oven. In the second method, food is placed in a second
dish and this dish is then placed onto a trivit in the bottom of the dutch
oven. The reason for the trivit is to elevate the dish above the bottom of the
oven to prevent burning.
A LITTLE ABOUT THE DUTCH OVEN
Before we get started, we should review some of the things you will
need to know before purchasing your frist dutch oven. There are literally
hundreds of option and size combinations available, so it would be impractical
for me to tell you which oven is the one for you. Because each type of oven is
designed for a different type of cooking situation. I will go over the various
options and you will have to decide which ones you will look for.
In shopping for an oven, you should look for one that is obviously well
made. Look at the bail handle, it should be of heavy guage wire and securely
attached to molded tangs on the side of the oven. Ovens that have rivited
tabbs should be avoided. Most oven handles will lay down against the side of
the oven in both directions, but if you look hard enough, you will find some
that allow the handle to stand up at a 45 degree angle on one side. This
allows you easier access to it when positioning or removing the oven from the
fire.
Another area that bears close examination is the handle on the lid. It
should be a loop attached to the lid on both ends and hollow in the center
allowing it to be easily hooked. Stay away from the ones that have a molded
solid tab on the lid for a handle. These are very difficult to grasp and
manage with a load of coals. The loop style offers much better control.
While examining the lid, check that it has a lip or ridge arround the
outer edge. The lip keeps the coals from sliding off of the lid. Don't get me
wrong, the ridgeless ones can be used but it is difficult to keep coals on the
lid and if you are not meticulious in cleaning the ash from the lid each and
every time you open the oven, you will end up with ash and/or sand in your
food. The lip virtually illiminates the problem and the lid can be lifted even
fully loaded with ash and coals with little difficulty.
Another feature to look at is the leggs. The most common varieity is
one with three leggs, although flatbottomed ones and four legged ones can also
be had. For outdoor cooking, leggs are a necessity, they maintain the height
of the oven above ground allowing air for the coals underneath. The flat
bottomed ones can be set up on rocks(which are scarce as hen's teeth here in
Florida) or up on steel tent peggs. If you figure in Murphy's Law here, the
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 4.
flatbottom ovens are best left in the store or on the kitchen stove where they
were intended. I highly recomend three leggs over four simply for the
stability factor. It is much more stable with three leggs sitting on rough
ground than with four.
The last option to look at is a second handle attached to the lid or
upper rim on the oven base. Some ovens are offered with a skillet type handle
attached to the lid. This, in theory, is a good idea, but in reality they seem
to be more in the way than of assistance. The handle does assist in using the
lid upsidedown as a skillet or griddle but when using it as a lid, they get in
the way of the bail handle and also misbalance the lid when lifting by the
center hoop. They also tend to be in the way during storage and packing
situations. Fixed handles on the oven base, with one exception, should be
absolutely avoided. I belive the theory behind these handles was to make the
oven easier to position in a deep fire pit. If you insist on considering the
handle, take a couple of red bricks with you to the store and place them in the
oven. Then give her a lift by the handle and you will see the uselessness in
the handle. A loaded 12" oven can weigh 20 to 25 pounds, a real wrist breaker.
The one exception is a small tab sometimes offered which is about 1 to 1-1/2"
deep and 2-3" wide on the upper lip of the oven. This tab makes pouring
liquids from the oven very easy and its small size has never caused storage or
packing problems for me.
When someone mentions "Dutch Oven" most people immediatly think "Cast
Iron", but dutch ovens are supplied in aluminum also. An aluminum oven weighs
only 6-1/2 to 7 pounds opposed to arround 18 pounds for the cast iron oven.
There are advantages and disadvantages to each.
The most obvious aluminum advantage is weight, 11 pounds lighter.
Additionally, because aluminum doesn't rust, care is restricted to simple
washing with soap and water. Aluminum tends to heat faster requiring less
preheating time but they don't retain the heat very long after the coals are
removed. Also because aluminum reflects more heat than cast iron, more coals
will be required to reach and maintain a set temprature. Also on windy days,
you will see a greater variation in temprature than one of cast iron. Where
weight is very critical, most of the disadvantages can be overcome. For
canoeing, backpacking or trips where weight is a problem, aluminum ovens are
the answer.
When weight is not a problem, the cast iron oven has the upper hand.
Cast iron reacts more slowly to temprature changes so don't burn food as easily
if the fire flares up and they retain heat for quite a while after the coals
have been removed, keeping food warmer longer. Also, because they retain heat
well, they fair better on windy days with smaller variations in temprature.
Cast iron absorbs a great deal of heat, consequently, they require fewer coals
to reach and maintain a set temprature. Weight is its obvious disadvantage,
but there are others. Clean up is not as simple, but done regularly and
correctly, it is not much of a chore. Rust is the other, bare cast iron will
literally rust overnight if not protected. This protection naturally must be
done each time it is used but is part of the cleanup proceedure and fairly
simple. After all, I 've got Tenterfoot Scouts that are 11 years old that do
it like clockwork.
The last thing you must consider is the size of the oven. They range
fron the tiny 4" to the giant 24" monsters. Personally, I have ovens ranging
in size from 6" to 18". For small group or patrol situations, 10"-12" will
serve rather adequately for almost all circumstances.
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 5.
As a review, you should look for a 10"-12" oven that is obviously well
made and of good design. It should have three leggs, loop type handle and a
lip on the lid and a strong bail type handle for the bottom. You can choose
other options but those are personal preferences and totally up the the user.
Wheather to choose cast iron or aluminum should be based on the service
conditions the oven is going to be MOST used in.
Now that you have decided the type, style and options, where do you
find one? Check your Boy Scout Troop Equipment Catalog or your local Boy Scout
Equipment Center. Many good sporting goods or camping supply stores also will
carry them. Also, restaurant supply houses may stock them or will have a
catalog they can order them from. From my experiences, the restaurant houses
typically cost a bit more but the ovens are commercial quality and they usually
have a better selection to choose from. Another option is mail order.
Companies such as REI, Campmor, etc may carry them but look out for the
shipping charges on the cast iron ones. In your shopping arround by mail, it
is best to request their shipping charges and add that in when compairing to
local prices.
If you go into the store armed with information, you should have little
problem in selecting an oven for your needs and it will be the start of some
long lived happy memories. One word of fair warning, SHOP ARROUND! I have
seen the same 10" oven by the same manufacturer range in price from $25 up to
their mighty proud $60, so be carefull. Demand quality, a poorly made oven
with lots of options is not worth the time to carry it to the car.
OTHER THINGS YOU WILL NEED
A good pair of leather gloves can save time and prove invaluable
arround a hot fire. A pair of Work Style gloves will do, but I recomend you
look at a Fire and Safety Supply house or a store that supplies fireplace
accessories and locate a pair of fire handling gloves. Although these
typically cost more, they offer thicker leather and an inner insulating lining.
They allow you to literally place your hand into hot coals, though I don't
reccomend doing so. Because of my experience on the Fire Department, the extra
protection and quality far outweigh the few extra dollars they cost. You will
have to weigh the quality against the higher price for yourself.
Something else you will need is a shovel. The standard garden type
will be sufficient. It will be used for stirring the coals and lifting them
out of the firepit to the oven. The style and length of the handle is up to
you, the user. The longer ones are great but not practical on hikes and canoe
trips. While the short "ARMY" folders are great for hiking and canoes, they
suffer from short handles, getting you and your hands closer to the fire.
Another item which will prove to be worth their weight in gold is a
pair of hot pot pliers. The pair listed in the Boy Scout Troop/Patrol
Equipment catalog are probably the best designed for the job. They are
inexpensive, well built, and light weight. The pliers have a specially
designed jaw that grips the oven lid very securely. The handle has a hook that
is used to grab the bail handle when it is too hot to hold by hand or when it
is hanging down in the coals.
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 6.
PREPAIRATION OF YOUR OVEN
For aluminum, your pretreatment is simply washing well with soap and
water. Some aluminum ovens are shipped with a protective coating and a simple
washing will remove it. Since aluminum doesn't rust, no further protection is
required, however, I have found that if you treat the aluminum like the cast
iron oven, food will not stick near as often as the untreated oven. This
pretreatment is at the user's option, so if you just want to wash it and be
done with it, you can.
Cast iron ovens, if properly cared for, will last many a generation. I
know several individuals that have dutch ovens belonging to great-great-
grandmothers, dating back well into the 1800s. Personally, I have an oven that
belonged to my grandmother and dates back before the turn of the century.
Although this book is oriented toword dutch ovens, the treatment and
care instructions are applicable to any cast iron skillet, griddle etc.. The
secret of cast iron's long life is really no secret at all. Constant and
proper care beginning with the day it is purchased will keep the oven in
service for many years. All quality ovens are shipped with a protective
coating that must be removed. This will require a good scrubbing with steel
wool and some elbow grease. Once removed, the oven needs to be rinsed well,
towel dried and let air dry. While it is drying, this would be a good time to
pre-heat your kitchen oven to 350. After it appears dry, place the dutch oven
on the center rack with it's lid ajar. Allow the dutch oven to warm slowly so
it is just bairly too hot to handle with bare hands. This pre-heating does two
things, it drives any remaining moisture out of the metal and opens the pores
of the metal.
Now, using a clean rag or preferably a paper towel, apply a thin layer
of saltfree cooking oil. Oils such as peanut, olive or plain vegatible oil
will be fine. Tallow or lard will do also but these animal fats tend to break
down during the storage periods that typical Boy Scout dutch ovens experience
between campouts and are not recomended. Make sure the oil covers every inch
of the oven, inside and out and replace the oven onto the center shelf, again
with the lid ajar. Bake it for about an hour or so at 350. This baking
hardens the oil into a protective coating over the metal
After baking, allow the oven to cool slowly. When it is cool enough to
be handled, apply another thin coating of oil. Repeat the baking and cooling
process. Again reapply a thin coating of oil when it can be handled again.
Allow the oven to cool completely now. It should have three layers of oil, two
baked on and one applied when it was warm. The oven is now ready to use or
store.
This pre-treatment proceedure only needs to be done once, unless rust
forms or the coating is dammaged in storage or use. This baked on coating will
darken and eventually turn black with age. This darkening is a sign of a well
kept oven and of it's use. The pre-treatment coating's purpose is two fold,
first and most important, it forms a barrier between moisture in the air and
the surface of the metal. This effectivly prevents the metal from rusting.
The second purpose is to provide a non-stick coating on the inside of the oven.
When properly maintained, this coating is as non-stick as most of the
commercially applied coatings.
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 7.
CLEANING YOUR OVEN
For aluminum ovens, the cleaning is the same as for ordinary pots and
pans. Use soap, water and scrub as usual for your other pans. More often than
not, cleaning cast iron ovens is much easier than scrubbing pots and pans. For
cast iron ovens, the clean process is in two stepps. First, food is removed
and second, maintenance of the coating. To remove stuck on food, place some
warm clean water into the oven and heat until almost boiling. Using a plastic
mesh scrubber or coarse sponge and NO SOAP, gently break loose the food and
wipe away. After all traces have been removed, rinse with clean warm water.
Soap is not recomended because its flavor will get into the pores of the metal
and will taint the flavor of your next meal.
After cleaning and rinsing, allow it to air dry. Heat over the fire
just until it it hot to the touch. Apply a thin coating of oil to the inside
of the oven and the underside of the lid. Allow the oven to cool completly.
The outside will need little attention other than a good wipe down unless you
see signs of rust forming. As a suggestion, it is a good idea to keep a
scrubber for cast iron and never use it with soap.
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 8.
A FEW NO NOs
Never, and I repeat, NEVER allow cast iron to sit in water or allow
water to stand in or on it. It will rust despite a good coating.
Never use soap on cast iron. The soap will get into the pores of the
metal and won't come out very easy, but will return to taint your next meal,
though. If soap is used accidentally, the oven should be put through the pre-
treatment proceedure, including removal of the present coating.
Do not place an empty cast iron pan or oven over a hot fire. Aluminum
and many other metals can tolerate it better but cast iron will crack or warp,
ruining it.
Do not get in a hurry to heat cast iron, you will end up with burn't
food or a dammaged oven or pan.
Never put cold liquid into a very hot cast iron pan or oven. They will
crack on the spot!
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 9.
TIPS ON COOKING TECHNIQUES
Enough about the oven and on to what you can do with it!
ROASTING: The heat source should come from the top and bottom equally. Coals
should be placed under the oven and on the lid at a 1 to 1 ratio.
BAKING: Usually done with more heat from the top than from the bottom. Coals
should be placed under the oven and on the lid at a 1 to 3 ratio, having more
on the lid.
FRYING, BOILING ETC: All of the heat should come from the bottom. Coals will
be placed under the oven only.
STEWING, SIMMERING: Almost all heat will be from the bottom. Place the coals
under and on the oven at a 4 to 1 ratio with more underneath than on the lid.
THE LID!: The lid can be placed on the fire or stove upside down and used as a
skillet or griddle. Using the lid in this fasion, you can make virtually error
free pancakes and eggs that don't run all over. This is because most lids are
shaped like a very shallow bowl so things naturally stay in the center, even if
the lid is not level!
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 10.
MEASURMENTS
Here are the abbreviations that will be used here:
oz - Ounce tsp - Tea Spoon
lb - Pound Tbs - Table Spoon
pt - Pint c - Cup (8 oz)
qt - Quart pkg - Package
gl - Gallon
Here are a few measurment conversions you may need:
1 Tbs = 3 tsp 1 Stick Butter = 1/4 lb or 1/2 c or 8 Tbs
2 Tbs = 1 oz
1/4c = 4 Tbs 1 lb bread loaf = About 17 slices
1/3c = 5 1/3 Tbs 1 1/4 lb loaf = About 20
1/2c = 8 Tbs 1 1/2 lb loaf = About 23
1 c = 8 oz
1 qt = 4 c
1 gl = 4 qt
2 c = 1 pt
SUBSTITUTIONS
1 c Milk = 1/2 c evaporated milk + 1/2 c water
= 1 c reconstituted dry milk + 2 tsp margarine or butter
1 c Buttermilk = 1 tbs vinegar + 1 c sweet milk
= 1/4c butter + 3/4c milk
1 1/2 tsp cornstarch = 1 tbs all purpose flour
1 c Honey = 1 1/4c sugar + 1/4c water or other liquid
Emergency should be the only excuse for substituting ingredients in a recipe.
Dutch Oven Cooking (c)1990 by Mike Audleman -:For FREE Duplication:- Page 11.