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- Impresario: Malcom McLaren and the British New Wave
-
- by The Pusher
-
- >>> A CULT Publication......1988 <<<
- -cDc- CULT OF THE DEAD COW -cDc-
- _______________________________________________________________________________
-
-
- Introduction: The New Museum in New York City had an exhibit on Malcom McLaren
- (manager of Sex Pistols, Adam and the Ants, and Bow Wow Wow) that I recently
- saw. They gave out a pamphlet about him which I typed up in this file.
-
- Thanks to my sister Leslie for taking me, and paying the cover charge at CBGB's
- later that night.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
- "He is best known for his role as manager of the infamous punk band, the
- Sex Pistols. Yet from his early art school days in the 1960's to his role as
- fashion designer, band manager and ultimately as a recording artist in his own
- right, Malcom McLaren has had a remarkably varied career as an orchestrator of
- public entertainments and spectacles, entrepreneur, style-maker and rabble
- rouser.
-
- The exhibition is about McLaren's participation in fifteen years of music,
- fashion, and graphic design, shown through record albums, t-shirts, magazines,
- music videos, memorabilia and other objects-many mass produced; and many the
- result of McLaren's collaborations with others- in other words, not the sort of
- thing usually found in art museums. The intention of this exhibition is not to
- push these objects into the rarified atmosphere of "fine art," but to explore
- their functions within popular culture, to see how ideas are spoken through
- fashion, style, and large-scale cultural phenomena.
-
- McLaren's arena is popular culture, but his concerns are linked to a
- series of movements in 20th-century art that runs from the Dadaists and
- Surrealists of the 1920's and 30's, to the Lettrists and Situationists of the
- 50's and 60's, through Pop Art, Happenings, and into the media-orientated art
- of our own time. These movements confounded traditional definitions of art by
- challenging the academic separation of "art" from "life." Politically engaged
- to greater or lesser degrees, they were concerned with the content of modern
- life and the ability of art to affect social experience.
-
- From his study of art history and his training as an art student, McLaren
- became interested in the way social dramas are played out in public spaces. He
- and his collaborators learned how to subvert authority through the manipulation
- of its symbols, especially its symbols of power. Consider, for instance, Jamie
- Reid's famous image of Queen Elizabeth with a safety pin through her nose.
- McLaren discovered that creating situations can be more effective than creating
- objects alone. In the 1970's and 80's this meant media manipulation, as well
- as live performance and the announcement of attitudes through dress and
- behavior.
-
- Malcom McLaren was born in London in 1946. He was raised by his grand-
- mother and educated at home until the age of nine. From 1963 to 1971 he
- studied art at various schools including Croydon College of Art where he met
- fellow students, Jamie Reid and Helen Wellington-Lloyd, who were later to
- design most of the Sex Pistols' graphics. In 1972, McLaren left art school to
- open a boutique at 430 King's Road with Vivienne Westwood. The boutique first
- sold retro clothes that revived the Teddy Boy look of the 50's. But McLaren
- and Westwood soon felt that another look was needed for the 70's. Throughout
- the decade McLaren would redesign the shop five times, change the inventory and
- devise a new name- LET IT ROCK (1972), TOO FAST TO LIVE TOO YOUNG TO DIE
- (1973), SEX (1974), SEDITIONARIES (1977), and World's End (1980). In each
- carnation the shop carried clothes that had more than style. The clothes
- embodied attitude.
-
- Of all the shops, SEX stands out in strongest profile because of its links
- with punk music and culture. (It is there that Johnny Rotten is purported to
- have auditioned for the role of the lead singer of the Sex Pistols.) SEX sold
- the look of punk-poverty wear, such as ripped t-shirts with slogans scrawled
- across them, boots, studded jackets, and bondage clothing made of leather,
- chains, and rubber. SEX became a gathering place for punk's growing ranks.
- The clothes, along with accessories like safety pins through the ear, lip, or
- cheek suggested self-mutilation and instilled fear by evoking violence and
- destruction. Danger and criminality were also suggested by the ransom-note
- graphics used on punk concert posters and record jackets.
-
- It was the mid-70's, a period of racial tension, economic instability and
- England's highest unemployment rate since the 1930's (33% among recent high
- school graduates in 1976). British youths gave up their futile demand for the
- right to work. Instead, they demanded the right not to work and to collect
- government support anyway. In 1977, absurdly conflicting images clashed in the
- newspapers- the dejection of unemployment and the pomp of the Queen's Silver
- Jubilee.
-
- In this atmosphere, punk and its most notorious band, the Sex Pistols,
- flourished. The band didn't play well, but it didn't matter. In fact,
- virtuosity was the anathema to the punk sensibility. An article in the punk
- fanzine "Sniffin' Glue" showed a diagram of the three finger positions on a
- guitar and advised: "Here's one chord, here's two more; now form your own
- band." Punk not only subverted traditional British values, ethics, and codes
- of respectability; it threw into confusion standards of quality across the
- board. Its messages were contradictory and deliberately confusing.
-
- "All 'God Save the Queen' means is that we hate the Queen 'cause everyone
- is lookin' up to her."
- - Sid Vicious, Sex Pistols bassist
- "We hate President Carter, too. Where'd he get them teeth?"
- - Paul Cook, Sex Pistols drummer
-
- In managing the Sex Pistols, McLaren rejected the decorum of conventional
- entrepreneurs. The Sex Pistols were good theater and McLaren knew how to make,
- as he said, "Cash from Chaos." Beating the capitalist system at its own game,
- McLaren collected hundreds of thousands of dollars by signing various recording
- contracts which were subsequently broken when reports of the band's unsavory
- behavior appeared in the press. For this, in 1977, the Sex Pistols were named
- "Young Businessmen of the Year" by England's "Investors Review".
-
- "The greatest technique involved in managing the Sex Pistols was always to
- create the right explosion and then know that it was going to happen, and as
- manager, run into the toilet and come out after the explosion and say, 'God,
- what's happened?"
- - Malcom McLaren
-
- When the Sex Pistols disbanded in 1978, McLaren was invited to revamp the
- image of Adam and the Ants. His first move was to separate Adam from the
- group, rename it Bow Wow Wow and enlist 14-year old Annabella Lwin as its lead
- singer. As the era of conservative Thatcherism began, McLaren initiated the
- look of "punk gone high seas." The theme was piracy and the performers adopted
- the theatrical look of swashbuckling outlaws. The concept of the outlaw was
- adapted and romanticized in the guise of such legendary figures as Geronimo and
- Blackbeard. Whereas punk fashion has recreated the look of poverty, the new
- romantic style was a costume of great riches with gold dust, glitter, and
- flamboyant color overdone to the point of caricature. Developing the piracy
- theme, Bow Wow Wow's song "C30 C60 C90 GO!" encouraged listeners to tape music
- directly from the radio instead of buying records. This was modern-day
- high-tech appropriation. Exploitation was at the heart of its sensibility.
- McLaren capitalized on lead singer Annabella's youth and her "exotic" Burmese
- background by developing the exploitation theme through images of blatant
- sexism, soft core pornography, and racial stereotyping.
-
- McLaren's association with Bow Wow Wow ended in 1982 and in 1983 he
- released his first solo album, Duck Rock. With this step he inserted himself
- into a youth culture that had been gaining momentum in New York City since the
- late 1970's. That culture was hip-hop, a movement originating in the South
- Bronx which encompassed rap and scratch music, break dancing, graffiti, and its
- own forms of clothes and speech. McLaren adopted the techniques of hip hop
- music by mixing previous recordings in new combinations, a procedure
- conceptually similar to his earlier method of creating new fashions by
- juxtaposing unlike styles and forms. To achieve an authentic South Bronx sound
- McLaren collaborated with the New York City DJ duo, the World Famous Supreme
- Team. Together they intermixed African, Cuban, and American recordings which
- McLaren had collected while traveling around the world. Among the results was
- "Buffalo Gals" which attracted a crossover audience of both black and white
- listeners.
-
- McLaren's project owed much to hip hop, but also differed from it in a
- substantial way. While most hip hop conveys young DJ's attitudes and
- experience of urban life, McLaren kept one foot in the realm of fantasy. To
- accompany the record, McLaren and collaborator Vivienne Westwood developed a
- line of "Buffalo Gal" clothes based on styles from old rural America. Look
- muddy, they said, expounding on the pleasures of square dance as a pagan
- courting ritual.
-
- In 1984, McLaren released another album, Fans, which brought him much
- acclaim. The record's most intriguing song, "Madam Butterfly", mixed rap music
- with Puccini opera. It combined extreme genres in a glossy and sophisticated
- package that appealed to yuppies and B-Boys alike. The interpenetration of
- high and low culture is not a new idea. But in his music, McLaren not only
- combined contrasting styles, he found convincing connections between the
- content of operatic libretto and contemporary culture, such as "Cho Cho San's"
- woeful tale of unwanted pregnancy in "Madam Butterfly." In McLaren's upcoming
- project, a Broadway production based on the album, contemporary teenagers go
- opera-mad, living life as if it were a libretto. They reinvent themselves as
- Carmens, Toscas, and little "Cho Chos."
-
- Like punk in the 1970's, this and McLaren's other projects continue to
- test the flexibility of art forms and institutions. His primary techniques,
- misuse and modification of pre-existing elements, are methods with a long
- history in the 20th century from Marcel Duchamp's rectified readymades to
- today's "appropriation art." In the 1960's, McLaren was influenced by the
- Situationist idea that iconoclasm is a liberating force and an agent of social
- change. Is such a strategy viable in today's media-saturated consumer culture,
- a culture which seems ever able to absorb outrage and atrocity, as long as
- there's a profit to be made? McLaren's accomplishments are perched precisely
- on the dialectic between the shocking and new, and its consumption and
- popularization. Is there a critique implied in his work or is he just in it
- for the sport? I leave it to you to decide."
-
-
- "I think the only rule I ever had was... that if it didn't annoy someone
- it wasn't worth doing. If it didn't create problems, too, it wasn't worth
- doing. If it didn't have any politics, it was suspect. And from that it then
- had to have a lot of style and be sexy, to sell."
- - Malcom McLaren
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- (c)1988 cDc communications by The Pusher 12/30/88-95
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