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- Path: sparky!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hpscdc!hplextra!hpl-opus!hpspdla!paulw
- From: paulw@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Paul Welch)
- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Subject: Pre-luber summary & Oil Changes
- Message-ID: <15200042@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM>
- Date: 28 Aug 92 16:19:23 GMT
- Organization: HP Palo Alto Fabrication Center
- Lines: 75
-
- Thanks for all of the responses to my question about pre-oilers. Let
- me summarize and provide a little more info (I am impressed at the
- number of responses I got; this must be a common topic?).
-
- Many folks questioned the basic logic of installing a pre-oiler. Some
- felt that just regular oil changes and good car care should be plenty
- to get 60-100k out of a motor. And, some said that the wear I was
- trying to prevent was rarely the ultimate cause of engine failure.
- Point well taken.
-
- Some offered info about purchasing one of these pumps. Thanks, but
- for $560 I'll have to come up with another idea. A private response
- suggested an aux. pressure vessel that is filled with pressurized
- oil while the motor runs. It holds this pressure until the motor is
- re-started; thus no pump and pump motor are required. Actually
- sounds like a viable idea to me.
-
- Here's just a little more background on why I brought this up in the
- first place: I have two vehicles in particular that this might be
- a good idea for. First, there is my Saab 9000 Turbo. Saab recommends
- that you let the engine idle for 20 to 30 seconds after parking the
- car before you shut the engine off, to allow the turbo to cool.
- I'd be interested to know if this is a theory or if they have
- ACTUAL DATA that shows some benefit here (I'm skeptical as to
- how well one could cool a turbo with engine oil that is already plenty
- hot). But, if you could circulate that oil for more like 5 minutes,
- especially if your not continuing to add heat with the engine running,
- now it starts to make sense. The benefit of having this system in
- place for when you go to start the car is really secondary, in this
- case.
-
- The second vehicle is a 1968 Ford truck, which runs on propane or
- gas. I have never had this one apart, but I have heard that propane
- motors stay really clean inside, due to the nature of the combustion.
- With clean oil and super clean fuel, the only thing left to be concerned
- about is wear or radical failure. I can't predict or prevent radical
- failure, but I'd be willing to bet most any mode of failure can be
- traced back to some sort of friction. The friction (wear) is highest
- at start-up (we nearly all agreed on that), so if I can reduce it,
- I think I can extend the life of the motor. And why not expect several
- hundred thousand miles from an engine? I wouldn't have a problem with
- a motor that lasted indefinitely. By the way, I do expect a LOT more
- from my vehicles than most people, and I'm willing to admit that.
-
- Enough said about the logic behind my questions. Now, how come I can
- go buy an oil pump for a typical Chevy engine for about $25, but if
- I want something similar to operate before I start the car, the price
- is $560. Obviously the latter choice also includes a small motor,
- switches, etc., but what are my choices for oil pumps if I want to
- try to build my own pre-oiler? I need something that won't leak,
- and I would guess that when they build the $25 version that sits in
- the oil bath, they don't take the time to seal it perfectly.
- Any pump and motor suggestions ?????
-
- Finally, I'd like to plant another seed for some more discussion.
- Being an engineer, I've been taught that you make guesses based on
- theory, and make decisions based on DATA. Where is the data for
- the suggested frequency of oil changes??? I'd especially like to hear
- from our friend at the GM research center on this one. Or from someone
- at a petroleum company. A very close friend's father used to work at
- a petroleum product analysis firm, where, among other things, they
- analyzed oil from various motors and equipment. He was also a pilot,
- and a certified airframe and engine mechanic. He preached the
- following: Oil doesn't really ever need to be changed. I know that
- this is a RADICAL concept for most of us. He said that with todays
- quality lubricants, the only real loss that all the analyses showed
- was that the ADDITIVES tended to dissipate or fail in the oil.
- Just adding new oil when the motor needed it, and CHANGING the filter
- regularly, was all that was really required. I'm sure the folks at
- Pennzoil wouldn't agree!!! Of course the $64 question is: would I
- try this? Don't know yet, not enough data !!
-
- What do ya think?
-
- PW
-