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- Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
- Path: sparky!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!darwin.sura.net!gatech!hubcap!opusc!usceast!SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu!HUTTO
- From: hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu (Brent Hutto)
- Subject: Re: 2WD 1/10th offroad
- Message-ID: <1992Aug14.121431.19899@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu>
- Sender: usenet@usceast.cs.scarolina.edu (USENET News System)
- Reply-To: hutto@smtc.engr.scarolina.edu
- Organization: NIST Southeast Manufacturing Technology Center
- References: <1992Aug13.222609.19155@beaver.cs.washington.edu>
- Date: Fri, 14 Aug 92 12:14:31 GMT
- Lines: 68
-
- In article <1992Aug13.222609.19155@beaver.cs.washington.edu>, waynew@cs.washington.edu (Wayne Wong) writes:
- >
- >Just some questions...
- >
- >(1) After about a month of racing my RC10 Team car, I noticed some
- > marks on the dogbones/universals(?) close to the outdrive hubs of
- > the transmission. There is a perfect circle (parallel to
- > how the rear tires turn) on both the left and right. Are these
- > markings typical? Is it due to an incorrect setup or just part
- > of what happens when the rear a-arms are put at extreme angles?
-
- I don't know. My cars have plastic sliders instead of dogbones.
-
- >(2) I think that I want give modified racing a try. What are typical
- > final gear ratios to use with say a 15T or 17T quad (on a
- > relatively short and/or medium track)?
-
- For a 17-turn motor with a 6-cell battery, something on the order
- of 9.0:1 is a good, safe starting point. If you use a 7-cell pack,
- increase your 6-cell ratio by around 10%, in this case to maybe
- 9.8:1 or so. For a 15-turn motor, around 9.6:1 is safe of 6 cells
- and 10.2 or so should work with 7. Always start on the "high" side
- (numerically) and run the motor in practice working your way "down",
- checking the run time and temperature of the motor and batteries
- after each run.
-
- For instance, with a 17-turn motor and a 6-cell 1400SCR packs, I
- would put a 23-tooth pinion on my car (9.40:1), if that ran for,
- say, 6 minutes I would try a 24-tooth (9.01:1), let's say that
- ran for a little over 5 minutes and the motor was warm but not
- hot, I would go to a 25-tooth (8.65:1) and see if I could still
- run for 4 1/2 minutes or so in practice. If it worked out this
- way, I might use the 25-tooth (8.65:1) on fast, long tracks and
- be able to fall back to the 24-tooth (8.65:1) on tighter, shorter
- tracks if I needed the acceleration.
-
- The advantage to the method is you never run your motor, even in
- practice, with too big a pinion and bog it down, overheating the
- batteries and, especially, the motor.
-
- >(3) Modified motor brushes... how often should one replace these? What
- > compound do these come with? Should I replace them with soft or
- > hard silver brushes? I would like to minimize comm. wear.
-
- I like brushes with some silver in them, but I stay away from real
- soft brushes in high-power modified motors, save the 3-run and out
- brushes for stock. I don't remember the part number, but Reedy
- makes a good "medium-hard" brush for modified motors.
-
- >(4) Sometimes I've noticed modified racers using 6 cells instead of 7. Is
- > this because they want to have less "punch" out of turns,
- > save weight, etc?
-
- I recently switched back to 6 cells to save weight (a couple of
- ounces). I use 1700MAH cells (both Sanyo and Panasonic) which have
- enough capacity that I can go to really low-wind modified motors
- and get plenty of power even with 6 cells and still make my time.
- For the very fastest tracks, however, I still keep a couple of
- 7-cell 1400SCR packs just in case. If I can't go fast enough with
- a 6-cell 1700SCR pack and 10-turn single, I switch to a 7-cell 1400SCR
- pack and a 12-turn single for one qualifier and, if it does better,
- for the main as well. It good to have both options, my cars run
- better 2 ounces lighter, for sure, but they run faster longer with
- the 7-cell option.
-
- -------------------------------
- Brent Hutto
- hutto@SMTC.engr.scarolina.edu
-