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- Modem Noise Killer -- (alpha version)
- ---------------------------------------
-
- With this circuit diagram, some basic
- tools including a soldering iron, and
- 4 or 5 components from Radio Shack, you
- should be able to cut the noise/garbage
- that appears on your computer's screen.
-
- I started this project out of
- frustration at using a US Robotics 2400
- baud modem and getting a fare amount of
- junk when connecting at that speed.
- Knowing that capacitors make good noise
- filters, I threw this together.
-
- This is very easy to build, however
- conditions may be different due to
- modem type, amount of line noise, old
- or new switching equipment (Bell's
- equipment), and on and on. So it may
- not work as well for you in every case.
- If it does work, or if you've managed
- to tweek it to your computer/modem
- setup I' d like to hear from you.
-
- I would also appreciate any of you
- electronic wizzards out there wanting
- to offer any improvements. Let's make
- this work for everyone!
-
- Please read this entire message and see
- if you understand it before you begin.
-
- OK, what you' ll need from Radio Shack:
-
- 1 #279-374 Modular line cord if you
- don't already have one. You won't need
- one if your phone has a modular plug in
- its base. $4.95
-
- 1 #279-420 Modular surface mount jack
- (4 or 6 conductor) $4.49
-
- 1 #271-1720 Potentiometer. This is a 5k
- audio taper variable resistor. $1.09
-
- 1 #272-1055 Capacitor. Any nonpolarized
- 1.0 to 1.5 uf cap should do. Paper,
- Mylar, or metal film caps should be
- used, although #272-996 may work as
- well. (272-996 is a non-polarized
- electrolytic cap) $.79
-
- 1 100 ohm resistor - quarter or half
- watt. $.19
-
- 1 #279-357 Y-type or duplex modular
- connector. Don't buy this until you've
- read the section on connecting the
- Noise Killer below. (A, B,or C) $4.95
-
-
- First off, open the modular block. You
- normally just pry them open with a
- screwdriver. Inside you'll find up to 6
- wires. Very carefully cut out all but
- the green and red wires. The ones
- you'll be removing should be black,
- yellow, white, and blue. These wires
- won't be needed and may be in the way.
- So cut them as close to where they
- enter the plug as possible. The other
- end of these wires have a spade lug
- connector that is screwed into the
- plastic. Unscrew and remove that end of
- the wires as well. Now, you should have
- two wires left. Green and red. Solder
- one end of the capacitor to the green
- wire. Solder the other end of the
- capacitor to the center lug of the
- potentiometer (there are three lugs on
- this critter). Solder one end of the
- resistor to the red wire. You may want
- to shorten the leads of the resistor
- first. Solder the other end of the
- resistor to either one of the remaining
- outside lugs of the potentiometer.
- Doesn't matter which. Now to wrap it up
- make a hole in the lid of the mod block
- to stick the shaft of the potentiometer
- through. Don't make this hole dead
- center as the other parts may not fit
- into the body of the mod block if you
- do. See how things will fit in order to
- find where the hole will go. Well, now
- that you've got it built you'll need to
- test it. First twist the shaft on the
- potentiometer until it stops. You won't
- know which way to turn it until later.
- It doesn't matter which way now. You
- also need to determine where to plug
- the Noise Killer onto the telephone
- line. It can be done by one of several
- ways:
-
-
- A. If your modem has two modular plugs
- in back, connect the Noise Killer into
- one of them using a line cord. (a line
- cord is a straight cord that connects a
- phone to the wall outlet. Usually
- silver in color)
-
- B. If your phone is modular, you can
- unplug the cord from the back of it
- after you're on-line and plug the cord
- into the Noise Killer.
-
- C. You may have to buy a Y-type modular
- adaptor. Plug the adaptor into a wall
- outlet,plug the modem into one side and
- the Noise Killer into the other. Call a
- BBS that has known noise problems.
- After you've connected and garbage
- begins to appear, plug the Noise Killer
- into the phone line as described above.
- If you have turned the shaft on the
- potentiometer the wrong way you'll find
- out now. You may get a lot of garbage
- or even disconnected. If this happens,
- turn the shaft the other way until it
- stops and try again. If you don't
- notice much difference when you plug
- the Noise Killer in, that may be a good
- sign. Type in a few commands and look
- for garbage characters on the screen.
- If there still is,turn the shaft slowly
- until most of it is gone. If nothing
- seems to happen at all, turn the shaft
- slowly from one side to the other. You
- should get plenty of garbage or
- disconnected at some point. If you
- don't, reread this message to make sure
- you've connected it right.
- ***END OF ORIGNAL FILE***
-
- ---------------------------------------
- | ADDITION TO ORIGNAL FILE -- 2/29/88 |
- | Mike McCauley -- CIS 71505,1173 |
- ---------------------------------------
- First, a personal recomendation. THIS
- WORKS!!! I have been plagued with noise
- at 2400 for some time. I went round and
- round with Ma Bell on it,and after they
- sent out several "repair persons" who
- were,to be kind, of limited help in the
- matter,I threw in the towel. I saw this
- file on a board up east a few days ago,
- and thought I'd bite. Threw the gismo
- together in about 10 minutes, took
- another five to adjust the pot for best
- results on my worst conection,and guess
- what? No more worst connecion! A few
- pointers:
-
-
- 1) The pot need not be either 5K or
- audio taper. I used a 10K 15 turn trim
- pot. Suggest you use what is handy.
-