Amiga ISO Collection

home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search

/ Amiga ISO Collection / AmigaDemoCD2.iso / ASCII / TEXTE / SCENE / HPA / ANARCHY / BOD1.lha / BOD1.DOC

Wrap

Text File | 1994-01-01 | 17.8 KB | 446 lines

3 ] *> Press [X] to Abort / [CR] to Continue: [] *> Title: Book of Destruction - Part 1 *> Date: 5/8/88 *> Time: 2:14 pm _____________________________________________________________________________ | | | Jack the Ripper Presents | | | | The Book of Destruction Part I | | | | Written, Conceived, and Brought to You By | | | | Jack the Ripper | |_____________________________________________________________________________| _______ | | |Prelude| |_______| This is part one of an ongoing series. After reading this file you will have a basic understanding of explosives. You will also know how to make TNT, Nitroglycerin, Black Powder, and Dynamite safely in your own home. _______________________________________________________________________________ __________ | | |Disclaimer| |__________| I am no way responsible for the acts of the end user. I am also not responsible in any way for any accidents or damages to ones person. This file is protected by my constitutional rights. The right to freedom of speech, which I am an advocate of. This file is also protected by my right to bear arms as I will pump your ass full of buckshot if you fuck with me. _______________________________________________________________________________ Now that the formalities are over with let's get into the good stuff, so first off let's actually find out what the definition of explosives is. A explosive is a substance or device capable of producing a volume of rapidly expanding gas that exerts sudden pressure on it's surroundings. Basically there are two types of explosives. (1) Detonating or High Explosives (2) Deflagrating or Low Explosives The difference here is that detonating explosives like TNT and Dynamite are characterized by rapid decomposition and high pressure, wheras deflagrating explosives lik black powder merely burn rapidly and create low pressures. However as we all know black powder under certain conditions will detonate for example if we pack it into a enclosed area such as a pipe or Co2 cannister. Now the detonating explosives are divided into two types primary and secondary. Primary explosives detonate by ignition i.e. a flame, spark, impact, or other means of heat. Secondary explosives require a detonator and occassionally a secondary booster. Now those are the basics, which should be remembered and marked, as those terms will come back to haunt you. _____________________________________________________________________________ | | | B L A C K P O W D E R | |_____________________________________________________________________________| Gunpowder or Blackpowder as we will call it was most likely invented by the Chinese around the 10th century. Blackpowder burns best when it is fine, and the fineness is measured as F, 2F, etc.. The finest though is 7F and the least finest is F. Now I am about to teach you how to make an excellent quality gunpowder. This is just short of factory 7FA po, which is the best. Materials Needed ---------------- Shaker or Drink Mixer Morter and Pestle Sulphur Potassium Nitrate Charcoal (preferably Matchlite, but any old charcoal will do) Graphite Ratios ------ 75% Potassium Nitrate 15% Charcoal 10% Sulphur .5% Graphite (Half a pencil worth for glazing only) Note : These ratios vary as more suplhur will slow down the burning process, while more Potassium Nitrate will speed it up. Experiment on your own and find out which ratios work best for you. (1) Grind the Charcoal and Sulphur together into a very fine dust, and also note that this cannot and will not explode, and also that it is sometimes best to put the charcoal brickets in a plastic bag, and smash them with a brick or other heavy object. (2) Next grind the Salt Peter or Potassium Nitrate by *ITSELF* and not with the other two chemicals. Also note that this powder must be the same consistancy as the first powder for optimum results. (3) Now pour the Sulphur and Charcoal mixture in. Now pour the Salt Peter in. Now add in a small amount of graphite that has been crushed finely. Now put all this into your shaker, and shake vigorously for about 15 to 30 minutes. (Note the longer it is shaked the better quality) Now adding in the graphite is a process is called glazing, and this done is because the graphite forms a small film over the gunpowder and this also rounds out the corners of the powder. Also the newly glazed gunpowder is more moisture resistant, and it flows or is poured more easily as it doesn't stick as much. Ignition -------- Black powder is relatively insensitive to shock and friction, and needs a flame or heat to be ignited. This can be ignited with a lighter, a red hot iron, a flame of any sort, or a fuse. The touch iron is on of my favorites as it keeps a distace between you and the powder. _____________________________________________________________________________ | | | N I T R O G L Y C E R I N | |_____________________________________________________________________________| Inventor is most likely unknown, as it most likely blew him to bits. Nevertheless Ascanio Sobrero is credited for it's finding in 1846. Alfred Nobel worked extensively with it, and sold his american holdings in Nitro for $20,000 in 1885. Obviously he was screwed good and hard by american know how. How the Explosion Occurs ------------------------ Ch2Ono2 3/2 N2 + 3 Co2 Chono2 -=-=-=-=-=-> + ignition 5/2 H20+ 1/4 02 This is how nitro explodes, and you chemistry majors will notice that the bi-products are Nitrogen, Water, and Carbon Dioxide. Materials --------- The materials are not listed on this one as it is quite dangerous, and I want everyone to read through it a few times before attempting anything. Procedure --------- Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (note: this should have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume for best results) with 200 parts Sulphuric Acid. The Nitric acid should be poured into the sulphuric acid, and not the other way around as it will splatter. This will be hot, so let it cool down, and when its cool add 38 parts glycerine as SLOWLY as possible. The glycerine should be allowed to trickle down the sides of the container, and don't drip it straight into the container.(note: if glycerin is added too fast then the stuff will ignite, and you will be eligible for the wheelchair olympics) Next stir with a *GLASS* rod for 15 seconds so very carefully. Now pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will then visibly precipitate immediatly. Now there will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin, and it's easy to separate. Next mix it with baking soda immidiatly after it's separated to keep it from going off spontaneously. Special Notes - The parts are by weight and the Baume scale of specific gravity, which can be found in most chemistry books. You can get fuming Nitric and Sulphuric acids at chemical supply warehouses or fertilizer stores. Don't make more than 100 grams at a time ever, and always wear some sort of body and eye protection. Glycerin can be obtained at any pharmacy or medical supply co. Also after it is washed with the baking soda it is not that stable, and a abrupt bump or sharp movement can take off your hands. Also note that nitroglycerin is much safer to handle frozen, and it freezes at 52 degrees farenheit or 11 degrees celcius. Therefore it can easily be frozen in ice. Ignition -------- Well this one is easy drop it or throw something at it. Also please remember that a loud fart could set this stuff off so please please be careful. _____________________________________________________________________________ | | | D Y N A M I T E | |_____________________________________________________________________________| This was invented by Alfred Nobel in 1867. The first and easiest form to make is dynamite no.1, which is 75% nitroglycerin and 25% guhr. Guhr is from kieselguhr a silicous porous earth. This was used as it absorbed large quantities of nitroglycerin. It is no longer used as the guhr draws some power from the explosion. Now the term "dope" is applied to the inert ingridients of dynamite, so 30% straight dynamite would be 70% dope. Get it? A better dope for dynamite is wood pulp and sodium nitrate as an oxidizer. That in a 40% straight dynamite ratio works excellently as an explosive. Materials --------- Nitrolglycerin Wood Pulp Procedure --------- Is this simpler than you thought or what? Well just mix in 60 percent wood pulp with 40% Nitroglycerin, and your done. This mixture should be done with care, and just let the wood pulp absorb the nitroglycerin. Note: There are many variations to this formula as cotton would work in place of wood pulp etc... Almost anything that will absorb the nitro will work, and it is best to experiment with. Industrial Dynamite No. 2 ------------------------- 68% Ammonium Nitrate 20% Sodium Chloride 10% TNT 2% Powdered Bark This is the scale to follow for the making of a more modern dynamite, and this is the ratio commonly used in industry. This is because around 1885 it was found safer to use ammonium nitrate in place of nitro for obvious reasons. This formula can be made in dry powdered form as the gelatin synthesis pretty much requires a lab. If anyone has access to a lab leave me mail and I will help you with any problems you might have. Also note that TNT is trinitrotoluene, and the above ratios for this formula are by weight not looks, but like gunpowder experiment and variate. Also when making this formula follow the same procedures as you did with the gunpowder except for the graphite. _____________________________________________________________________________ | | | T N T O R T R I N I T R O T O L U E N E | |_____________________________________________________________________________| TNT is the most widespread weapon used in shells grenades and a horde of mixtures. It is commonly mixed with RDX for explosive devices such as the torpedo, cyclotol used for shattering with a explosive power of 4,000,000 pounds per a square inch, and many other uses. I however have not aquired the plans nor can figure out the schematics for RDX. This one is kept from the public for obvious reasons along with the C family i.e. C-1, C-3, C-4, etc... with C-4 being the most popular. TNT is great it can be melted safely and poured into a future container for later use. Well on with the procedure. Also note the melting point of TNT is 82 degrees farenheit. Materials --------- Once again I would much rather have you read through it, but not because it is dangerous, because it is very very very difficult to make, and out of the twenty seven times I have made it, it only worked twelve times. Also this will be done step by step as it is much more difficult than nitro or dynamite. Procedure --------- (1) Take two beakers, and in beaker A prepare a solution of 76% sulfuric acid, 23% nitric acid, and 1% water. In beaker B prepare a solution of 57% nitric acid and 43% sulfuric acid. (2) Ten grams of beaker A are poured into beaker C and placed in a ice bath. (3) Add ten grams of toluene to beaker C, and stir for several minutes. (4) Remove beaker C from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees Celcius, and stir it constantly while it is heated. (5) Fifty additional grams of solution from beaker A are added to beaker C and the temperature is allowed to rise to 55 degrees celcius. Then it is held at 55 degrees celcius for ten minutes. Note an oily liquid will begin to form on top of the acid solution. (6) After 10 minutes the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 degrees celcius when reaching this temp. the oily liquid will sink to the bottom and collect. Then use a syringe and draw off the remaining acid solution. (7) Fifty more grams of beaker A are added to the oily liquid while the temp. is slowly being raised to 83 degrees celcius. After this temp. is reached it is kept there at 83 degrees celcius for 30 minutes. (8) Now the solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees celcius, and is kept at 60 degrees for 30 minutes. (9) Now drain off the acid once again saving only the oily liquid. (10) Next 30 grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is heated to 80 degrees celcius. (11) Now when it reaches 80 degrees add 30 grams of beaker B, and the temp. is raised from 80 degrees to 104 degrees, and it is held at 104 degrees for 3 hours. (12) After the 3 hours, the solution is lowered to 100 degrees and is held there for 30 minutes. (13) When this time is up the oil is removed from the acid and washed with boiling water. (14) After washing it with boiling water start to stir it consistantly, and watch the TNT begin to solidify (15) When it starts to solidify cold water is add to the beaker so that the tnt will form into pellets. (16) Now your done after a quite long and trying expierience! Notes: on the above the weights and temperatures and times are specific, so don't blow them off or it wont work. Also the acid solutions here and with the nitroglycerin can dissolve flesh in seconds so be careful for gods sake! Also the TNT you have can be melted into a container for future use against a well deserving enemy. Violent mixture next with TNT. See it can already be used to make a dynamite, but we want something with a little more kick than plain TNT or dynamite. Amatol ------ This is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and TNT it is used by the government, and they're better killers than me so it must be good. Amatol can be made very easily it can be melted into the TNT, and then poured into a container. Ratios ------ 80% Ammonium Nitrate 20% TNT or 50% Ammonium Nitrate 50% TNT The military value of this mixture was used mainly in WWI (world war I for the morons) it was used in artilley shells and aerial bombs. This composition is pretty much good for any sort of devastating projectile per say the neighbors house or car. Ohh well this looks like the end of The Book of Destruction Part I, so take it easy and don't blow yourself up, so you can see The Book of Destruction Part II (Intermidiate). Later... Jack the Ripper Please note there are a rash of Jack the Rippers so please dont confuse me with them! I am the Jack the Ripper of 713 and can be found on Fone Conspiracies, Phrozen Phorest, Executive Inn, Ambrosia, Celestial Woodlands, or London at Midnight my board soon to be up and running Snarfed From The Forbidden Passage (713) 774-0449 [3] [Anarchy and Destruction] (39) Minutes Remaining (G-Files Menu) Command <?-Help>: [ Which G-file (Q=Quit) ? ¬±¹þ Which G-file (Q=Quit) ? M Which G-file (Q=Quit) ? 5 Which G-file (Q=Quit) ? 5 [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] [+] [+] [+]L O C K P I C K I N G [+] [+ [+] [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] [+] [+] [+]WRITTEN BY: DARC DEATHE [+] [+] [+] [+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] THIS TUTORIAL WILL DEMONSTRATE HOW TO "PICK" A PIN TUMBLER LOCK. USE OF THIS MATERIAL IS FOR LOCKSMITHS ONLY, ANY USE OF THIS INFORMATION FOR ILLEGAL PURPOSES IS AGAINST THE LAW. (AS LONG AS WE ARE AT IT, DO YOU WANT TO BUY SOME LAND IN FLORIDA?) IN ORDER TO PICK A PIN TUMBLER LOCK, YOU WILL NEED FOUR ITEMS: A LOCK, YOU, A PICK, AND A TENSION WRENCH. YOU CAN USUALLY GET THESE AT A LOCKSMITH STORE, IF YOU CANNOT FIND ONE NEAR YOU THERE WILL BE AN ADDRESS AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE THAT YOU CAN ORDER THEM FROM. HERE IS AN ILLUSTRATION OF A PICK AND A TENSION WRENCH: ________/ !________ PICK TENSION WRENCH MOST PEOPLE KNOW OF THE NEED FOR THE PICK, BUT HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE WRENCH IS FOR. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT AND WITHOUT IT IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PICK A LOCK. IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK, WE COUNT UPON THE IMPERFECTION OF THE LOCK.BEFORE WE LOOK AT HOW TO ACTUALLY PICK THE LOCK, WE WILL LOOK AT THE PARTS OF IT AND HOW THE IMPERFECTION PART FITS IN. HERE IS A DISSASSEMBLED LOCK: / // / \ \\ \ SPRINGS -> / // / \ \\ \ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! DRIVERS ->! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !_! !_! !_! !_! _ _ ! ! _ ! ! foVTOM hmNS ->! ! ! !_ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ _____________________ ! : : : : : : : : ! HOUSING ->! : : : : : : : : ! ! : : : : : : : : ! !___: Which G-file (Q=Quit) ?