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- Path: sparky!uunet!think.com!spool.mu.edu!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!cf603
- From: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
- Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
- Subject: Re: H&A No. 1 bandsaw
- Date: 21 Jan 1993 12:50:27 GMT
- Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA)
- Lines: 52
- Message-ID: <1jm66jINNldd@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>
- References: <4320141@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> <1jecq5INNf5b@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>
- Reply-To: cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill)
- NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu
-
-
- In a previous article, gph@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (G. Paul Houtz) says:
- >cf603@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Dave Sill) writes:
- >>
- >>I just bought an old bandsaw, and I'd appreciate any information anyone
- >>has on the model and manufacturer.
- >
- > Fair enough.
-
- I still haven't gotten any information on this. Surely *someone* in this
- group knows *something* about H&A or this saw. PLEASE drop me a line if
- you do.
-
- >>It's got 14" wheels with rubber tires--no crown, but that hasn't caused any
- >>tracking problems that I can see. Depth of cut is a tad over 4"--the blade
- >>is about 85" so I guess I'll need to buy one of those kits and make my own.
- >>The top wheel has a simple bronze(?) bearing with an oil fitting. It's got
- > ^^^^^^
- >This is probably a babbit bearing. The way this works is the bronze stuff,
- >which is actually a specific alloy called "Babbit" is melted down and poured
- >into the bearing so that it mates exactly with the part that turns, in this
- >case, probably the wheel shaft.
-
- I'm pretty sure it's bronze, but never having seen babbit first-hand, I
- can't say for sure. How can I tell? Scratch test? I could try to melt
- it, but then the saw would be out of commission until I re-poured it.
-
- If it is a bronze sleeve, can I take it to a machine shop and have it
- replaced with a new one? Could I upgrade to a ball or roller bearing?
- Anyone ever done anything like this? What kind of bearing would be best
- for a bandsaw--under blade tension, I'd say the load on the bearing is
- pretty high.
-
- >Any play here could be responsible for poor cutting performance.
-
- I think the blade is part of it, too. It's old, and has at least two
- welds.
-
- >To restore these bearings, you take melt down the babbit and add a little
- >new babbit (to compensate for the wear) and then pour it into the bearing.
- >There is an excellent article on this in one of the Fine Woodworking
- >condensations. I will look for it at home.
-
- Yes, even though my woodworking library is only 2 or 3 books strong, I *do*
- have FWW on Woodworking Machinery. It's excellent, and everyone ought to
- buy a copy. Besides the article on babbit bearings, it covers 3-phase
- power, maintenance, Taiwanese imports, etc.
-
- --
- Dave Sill
- Play: cf603@cleveland.freenet.edu
- Work: de5@ornl.gov
-