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- Path: sparky!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!ut-emx!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!lihan
- From: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
- Newsgroups: sci.electronics
- Subject: Re: What really Failed on Fluorescent Lamp
- Message-ID: <86132@ut-emx.uucp>
- Date: 4 Jan 93 18:41:37 GMT
- References: <1993Jan3.145525.28378@osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu>
- Sender: news@ut-emx.uucp
- Reply-To: lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Bruce G. Bostwick)
- Lines: 75
-
- In article <1993Jan3.145525.28378@osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu>,
- martin@datacomm.ucc.okstate.edu (Martin McCormick) writes:
- |>
- |> We recently had a fluorescent lamp ballast go bad at our
- |>house which got me wondering about what actually happened.
- |>The lamp in question is an instant start type, using a
- |>12T/20CW tube. This tube has two pins at each end and can
- |>operate in either the instant start-type fixtures or the old
- |>style ones that use the starter.
- |> The trouble started innocently enough. The lamp didn't
- |>light when switched on. One could see a flash in the tube
- |>when turning it off, but there was no other light at all. I
-
- sounds like the ballast failure at this point..
-
- |>had a spare tube which had, at one time, been in an old
- |>starter-type fixture so I decided to use that one until we
- |>could go out and buy a new one.
- |> The light came on with the installation of the spare
- |>tube and we went on about other things. A few minutes later,
- |>my wife said that she had seen a flash. We weren't really
- |>sure, though, so we didn't take any action.
-
- dying ballast took out the old tube -- new one works OK for a
- bit but the ballast is still weak..
-
- |> About five minutes later, it was obvious that something
- |>was terribly wrong. The ballast was sizzling and filling the
- |>house with the aroma of melted pitch and burning paper. We
- |>are, now in the market for a new fixture.
- |> Just for fun, I did an autopsy on the original
- |>fluorescent tube and the spare. The original one shows that
- |>both cathodes are open, (infinite resistance at each end.)
- |>The spare tube that had bin in the ballast when it smoked
- |>shows one open cathode and one which is still good, (about
- |>4.5 Ohms.)
- |>I am not really sure how the instant start ballasts work, so
- |>I am wondering if the presence of one open cathode might have
- |>actually been what smoked the ballast since it hadn't smoked
- |>until I installed the spare tube. One open cathode would
- |>cause the load to be half-wave rectified DC instead of the
- |>full-wave load which normally occurs.
- |>Since the ballast got severely overheated, it must be
- |>replaced, but I would like to know what really happened.
- |>Maybe saving the old tube turned out to be false economy.
-
- Probably the ballast quit partway first, then died the final death
- after the spare tube was put in. FYI, the instant-start ballast for
- a two-pin (filament type) tube goes like this:
-
- 120VAC HOT O------() || ()-------O
- () || () > 2-3VAC CATHODE (high current)
- () || ()-------O
- () || () \
- () || () > 1.9kVAC GAS DISCH (low current)
- () || () /
- () || ()-------O
- () || () > 2-3VAC CATHODE (high current)
- 120VAC NEU O------() || ()-------O
-
- The cathode bridles are high-current windings added to the high-voltage
- excitation winding -- probably the unbalanced high-current loading caused
- the core to overheat and burn out the varnish, which caused primary and
- secondary winding shorts, etc., especially if the core is grounded like it's
- supposed to be.
-
- The most economical course is to start over with a new lamp, tubes, ballast,
- and all, from the hardware store. Other than that you could put in new tubes
- along with your new ballast, but be sure to replace them _together_ if a new
- ballast is going in. They're interrelated in the extreme..
-
- <BGB>
- lihan@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu / The only reason the world hasn't
- (really Bruce Bostwick) / dissolved into total chaos is that
- from the great state of TEXAS / Murphy's Law also applies to Murphy.
-