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- Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
- Path: sparky!uunet!infonode!ingr!b30news!andy
- From: andy@b30.ingr.com (Andrew Brezinski)
- Subject: Re: Another question (or two) from the 59 vette guy...
- Message-ID: <1993Jan11.204946.26345@b30.ingr.com>
- Organization: Intergraph
- References: <1993Jan8.155741.10184@cbnewsl.cb.att.com>
- Distribution: na
- Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1993 20:49:46 GMT
- Lines: 64
-
- In article <1993Jan8.155741.10184@cbnewsl.cb.att.com> piz@cbnewsl.cb.att.com (G G ZIPFEL) writes:
- >
- >
- > First off, thanks for the suggestions about removing the paint.
- > I picked up some dot 3 brake fluid, gave it a soak, and now
- > it's a clean as a cruise ship. So now to new questions:
- >
- > 1) Will the texture of the paint on the body be better
- > if I pick up an air brush system? Can I use the air brush
- > to paint the indented panels on the side of the vette?
- >
-
- IMO, most definitely, YES. About a year ago, I had my first opportunity
- to use an airbrush. I wouldn't exactly call it a high-grade system, but
- the resulting finish was considerably better. Also, another benefit of the
- airbrush is that you can buy the bottles of "brush-on" paint which are
- usually about half the price of aerosol cans. Eventually, the airbrush
- will pay for itself.
-
- There is nothing that you can paint with a spray can that you can't paint
- with an airbrush. My first use of the airbrush was on a 1989 Corvette ZR1
- and I had no problems painting the side gills. Hope that answers your
- question.
-
- >
- > 2) Has anyone used the buffing/polishing kits that I read about
- > in last months "Scale Auto" Magazine? The results looked
- > great, but it seemed like quite a bit of work.
- >
-
- I have used these with pretty good results. I know others who have had
- outstanding results. The difference has been in the application. I
- prefer to build factory replica stock, late model vehicles. They tend to
- have a lot of sharp edges and corners. I have a tendency to go all the
- way through the paint on these edges. However, if you build a '49 Merc
- Street Rod, for example, all of the edges are rounded and you dont' have
- nearly as much of a problem with wear-through.
-
- I use the Millenium 2000 kit and have been pretty happy with the results.
- However, as you mentioned, be prepared to put a lot of time into this to
- get decent results. You may find it to be more work than it's worth.
-
- One final note, it's very easy to break plastic parts using the polishing
- kit by applying too much pressure in an attempt to speed up the process.
-
- > 3) Do you guys do more than one model in parallel? ie/ while
- > paint is drying on one, paint another part of a second (or third)
- > model? I have a few I'd like to finish, but it takes so long
- > when I have to wait overnight after painting a small part...
- >
-
- About a year and half ago, I did this for the first time. I built two
- models concurrently in six weeks' time and this included using the polishing
- kit on both of them. My social life paid the price, but I was trying to
- get them done in time for the IPMS Nationals in St. Louis, MO. The '87
- Buick GNX did't even place in it's category because it was deluged by over-
- bearing competition. The '91 Chevy 454SS Pick-up took first place for
- the out-of-the-box trucks categroy, however. Not bad for my first attempt
- at using the polishing kit. And these were both painted with spray cans.
-
- Andy Brezinski
- Intergraph Corporation
- Huntsville, AL 35894-0001
-
-