NetNews Usenet Archive 1993 #1/NN_1993_1.iso/spool/rec/models/scale/752

Text File | 1993-01-06 | 3.5 KB | 70 lines

Newsgroups: rec.models.scale
Path: sparky!uunet!paladin.american.edu!gatech!concert!samba!phoenix!thorn
From: [e-mail] (Jesse Thorn)
Subject: Re: Ruined Model?
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Sender: [e-mail]
Nntp-Posting-Host: phoenix.radonc.unc.edu
Organization: Radiation Oncology, NCMH/UNC, Chapel Hill, NC
References: <[e-mail]> <[e-mail]>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1993 21:25:40 GMT
Lines: 57

From a prior alt.models series of postings on removing paint from
plastic models.....

-------------------------------

There have been lots of suggestions - let's put them all together:

1) Brake fluid - an old standby, I've found that it softens the plastic and
   is kinda expensive. It's also v.toxic, so you ought not to use it around
   kids.

2) Easy-off (and similar oven cleaners) - another commonly-used product, but
   toxic and loaded with fumes.

3) Pine-sol - noxious smell, but does the job well

4) Fantastik - this one I've not tried yet, but it got rave reviews from
   readers in a couple of magazines. It also seems to be the least irritating
   (to the nose and skin.) It also reportedly "never" harmed the kit parts,
   given the low concentration of active agents; one writer claimed that he
   left parts in for weeks, out of laziness, but that the stripping action
   would commonly work overnight.

----------------------------


Greetings from Maryland "The Free State"; Home of the latest helmet law,
The best method that I know of, and have been using for several years, for
removing old paint is to completely immerse the model in "DOT 3" brake fluid
for at least three days. This will completely lift the old paint (enamel
acrylic, or lacquer) off of the model without any damage whatsoever to the
plastic. Some minor scrubbing with a soft brush will probably be necessary
to remove paint from around corners, crevices, extrusions, etc. The old paint
will come off much like a sheet of wet tissue paper. The brake fluid will
not affect cement or fillers. Two important points: only "DOT 3", not "DOT
5" brake fluid will work for paint removal (no particular brand is better than
any other, the cheap stuff is just as good as more expensive brands); and,
insure that the old painted surface stays wet with fluid as you work. If it
dries out you will have to start over again with the soaking process.
What works best for me is to use one of those aluminum pans you buy in the
grocery store for both a soaking and scrubbing pan. Be sure to wear a good
pair of heavy rubber gloves while doing this as the brake fluid will dry
your skin out very quickly. Remember to be very careful not to spill any
of the fluid on anything, as it will remove paint (or dye) from whatever
it touches. Use an unpainted, natural hair brush for scrubbing, one with
a wooden handle as the fluid will sometimes affect nylon/synthetic bru
shes. I prefer this method over any commercially available paint remover
as they (even the Polly-S brand) will affect the plastic; and, since the
brake fluid does not evaporate, it can be reused over and over again
indefinitely, requiring you to only filter or scoop out the paint flakes
I have one can (at 79 cents) of brake fluid I've been reusing for over
four years. This also makes it much less expensive, not to mention in-
finitely less odiferous than the oven cleaner method, which also will
sometimes affect or mar the surface of some polystyrene. Didn't mean to
run on so long, so good luck and hope this helps.

------------------------------