home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
- Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
- Path: sparky!uunet!spool.mu.edu!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!mbunix.mitre.org!bds
- From: bds@mbunix.mitre.org (Smith)
- Subject: Re: How to get a square edge
- Message-ID: <1992Dec22.135227.4647@linus.mitre.org>
- Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service)
- Nntp-Posting-Host: mbunix.mitre.org
- Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA
- References: <1992Dec21.123736.9479@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com>
- Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1992 13:52:27 GMT
- Lines: 29
-
- In article <1992Dec21.123736.9479@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com> carrd@iccgcc.decnet.ab.com writes:
- >
- >I've run into this problem alot when dealing with long pieces of wood
- >(> 5') and thought I'd ask the wisdom of the net. The problem I refer to
- >is getting a true edge on a board when the deflection of the warp is
- >only about 1/2 - 1 inch over the entire length. The bed on my jointer
- >(Jet 6") is too short to detect the curve, thus all I end up with is a
- >curve on a smaller width board.
- >
- >Anyone come up with a slick way around this problem?
- >
- >Thanks in advance.
- >
- >Dave
- >
-
- There's a very old way to handle this. Get a long straight edge (I
- bought a 4' straight edge for about $20 at a woodworking store--no,
- it's not good enough for machinists, but it's plenty good enough for
- jointing wood) and use it to lay out a straight line along the side of
- the board. Then use a hand plane and plane to the line. It doesn't
- have to be perfect--just good enough so your jointer could clean it
- up. Once you get reasonably good at it, you might not have to use
- your jointer at all.
-
- Barry
-
-
-
-