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- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!mothra.syr.EDU!ravalent
- From: ravalent@mothra.syr.EDU (Bob Valentine)
- Subject: Re: Recommendations on Carb Rebuild?
- Message-ID: <1992Dec16.163519.18482@newstand.syr.edu>
- Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY
- References: <1992Dec15.020447.19638@u.washington.edu>
- Distribution: usa
- Date: Wed, 16 Dec 92 16:35:19 EST
- Lines: 60
-
- In article <1992Dec15.020447.19638@u.washington.edu> olsenc@stein.u.washington.edu (Clint Olsen) writes:
- >Hello:
-
- [stuff deleted]
-
- >The only problem now is that he mentioned that it was running crappy
- >when it was cold because the carb is about ready for a rebuild. The
- >diagnostic checker said that the Computer is setting the dwell at 3
- >degrees (I thought dwell is measured in impedance, eg. ohms?). Anyway,
- >he said that means that it's running really lean because everything
- >is getting clogged up inside. He also said that some choke dashpot
- >thingy on the left side of the carb is totally inoperable as well.
- >
- >Olds sells the kits to fix the carbs and I also found a Haynes manual for
- >my car. The mechanic said that it wouldn't be a good idea for me to rebuild
- >it because I didn't have the proper equipment. He said that parts of the
- >carb are electronically controlled and adjusted. My first reaction is
- >"bologna", but perhaps some of you may know if this is a really nasty
- >job. Is the mechanic full of it, or should I take it in?
- >
- >Cutlass Cierra 1984 V6 (2 bbl. carb) approx. 93,800 miles.
-
- Well, if it just runs bad when it is cold, and fine when it is hot,
- then the carb is most likely fine, and the choke system is screwey.
- If he says it's running lean AT IDLE, then it's just the idle mixture.
- Ok, you say, I'll just adjust it. NOT!
- Sadly, the EPA and car manufactuers decided that we are not capable
- of doing such things, so they recessed the screw, (which has a special
- head) and covered it with a hardened steel cap. The carb must be
- removed, and the little cap removed. Chiltons/Haynes should cover
- this. Buy the adjuster tool for like $5, and follow the book
- instructions for adjustment.
- Usually, you hook up a dwell meter to a test point on the mixture
- control solenoid, set the meter on 6 cyl. scale, and adjust the
- mixture until it reads 30 degrees. NOTE: this may be the wrong setting
- for your car, you gotta find the right one.
- As for the choke dashpot, they go for about $20-$25 bucks at he
- local auto store. They also carry a rebuild kit, gaskets and accel.
- pump, just like the GM kit.
-
- I've rebuilt a pile of these, as the Cavalier uses the same thing,
- except for the throttle plate, which got matched with the bowl off of
- a Citation, and they work fine. Bastard-childern, tho. The main
- complexity of these little things is the choke linkages on the side,
- and the fact that if you do remove the top, you must take care not to
- damage the mixture solenoid upon re-installation.
-
- >
- >Thanks in advance.
- >
- >-Clint
-
- ________________________________________________________________________
- \ The name: --> Bob Valentine <-- /
- / The address: --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <-- \
- \ /
- / The ride: --> 71 Olds Cutlass Convertible: 350/T400/Posi (soon!) <-- \
- \______________________________________________________________________/
-
-
-