NetNews Usenet Archive 1992 #27/NN_1992_27.iso/spool/rec/woodwork/7959

Internet Message Format | 1992-11-22 | 1.9 KB

Path: sparky!uunet!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!torn!nott!cunews!revcan!ecicrl!clewis
From: [e-mail] (Chris Lewis)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Painting end-grain
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Date: 23 Nov 92 06:48:48 GMT
References: <[e-mail]>
Organization: Elegant Communications Inc., Ottawa, Canada
Lines: 34

In article <[e-mail]> [e-mail] (Steven Bellovin) writes:
>I tried painting some pine end-grain today; not at all to my surprise,
>the paint was sucked in, leaving almost nothing visible on the
>surface.  (This was a white latex paint, if it matters.)  How should I
>seal it first?  Just give it more coats of the same paint?  A primer?
>A sanding sealer?

Hi Steven,

More coats would do it, but a primer of some sort is a better idea.

One of the problems with pine is pitch leakage.  Even if you get a
thorough coating of latex paint over it, I've seen pitch leakage
go right through.  And, in one particular case, I saw *4* coats
of latex paint disappear into window trim (admittedly, there were
dampness problems with that bit of trim).

I was always taught to use shellac over pine.  And I've had
good luck so far putting latex paint or any other kind of paint over it.

I consulted with a pro furniture finisher, and he imparted a neat trick
to guarantee sealing "problem" pine - use a hair dryer or heat gun to force
pitch out of the wood, then wipe it up with turpentine.  *Then* cover it
with a coat or two of shellac.

I've tried it on a table made out of moderately knotty, and very "pitchy"
pine and it worked great.

While the heat gun may be overkill in your case, it's a technique worth
filing away for future reference.
--
Chris Lewis; [e-mail]; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
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