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- Newsgroups: rec.photo
- Path: sparky!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!cujo!cc.curtin.edu.au!zrepachol
- From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
- Subject: Re: Picture matting/framing
- Message-ID: <1992Nov24.050606.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>
- Lines: 71
- Sender: news@cujo.curtin.edu.au (News Manager)
- Organization: Curtin University of Technology
- References: <Bxy87A.CB4@javelin.sim.es.com>
- Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1992 20:06:06 GMT
-
- In article <Bxy87A.CB4@javelin.sim.es.com>, bmahler@javelin.sim.es.com (Brian Mahler) writes:
- > I forgot who posted the message about mounting pictures to foam
- > core causing it to warp. I would like to know more information on this.
- >
-
- Have a look at the side of a big of foam core. You will see that the top
- and bottom are more like a heavy paper than a board. The adhesive will shrink
- the top paper, causing the whole lot to warp.
-
- > Because I switched over to mounting my pictures on acid free foam core
- > because I have several prints framed by custom print shops that have
- > actually warped (the backer board where the print is glued looks like
- > /\/\/\/\/\/\/\ creating an ugly picture. So I started my own framming
- > and matting, using acid free foam core as a backer board.
- >
- > It has been my experience that a frame shop unless specially requested
- > will mount the picture on regular mat board, which will warp in just a
- > couple of years. The mat board is not rigid enough to remain straight
- > over time. thus you must use either foam core to support the matt or a
- > corregated mat to support it, or just mount the picture to the foam core
- > itself. So, since the foam core is acid free why not mount the picture
- > directly to it?
- >
-
- See the above. A thicker board will reduce the problem, not eliminate it.
-
- > Here is how I layer my pictures if it helps.
- >
- >
- > ********* ********
- > ********* ********
- > *** ========================================****
- > *** ----------- --------****
- > *** ------------- ----------****
- > *** """"""""""""""""""""""""" ****
- > *** ......................... ****
- > *** ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||****
- > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- >
- > ***** actual picture frame
- > ===== glass
- > ----- mat board, 2 layers
- > """"" art work/ picture
- > ..... glue (3m PMA)
- > ||||| Foam core backer board
- > ~~~~~ craft paper (to help seal the frame)
- >
- > So here is my big question?
- > why not use the foam core to mount the picture to. It is much stiffer
- > than mat board, thus resist warping several years down the road.
- >
-
- NO IT WONT!!!
-
- > And even if you do use mat board withthe special coragated backer board mat
- > what is to prevent the print from warping forward (towards the glass)?
- >
-
- The trick is to hinge the work to the back mat. This allows each to expand and
- contract independantly. If there is any warping, the overmat will hold the
- photo from the glazing. A quick and dirty hinge can be made with 2 lot of linen
- tape. The first half under the photo, adhesive up, the another over the top half
- of the first to stick it to the mat.
-
- The nice thing about hinges, is that if the mat warps it is easy quick and SAFE
- to remove the photo from the mat and re-mount. I use a mat, a Al foil barrier
- sealed with #m 'magic' tape, and a backing board behind that. ( I don't trust
- foam core fully )
-
- ~Paul
-
-