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- From: drraymon@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca (Darrell Raymond)
- Subject: Re: Setting up a darkroom...
- Message-ID: <BxvK7u.3A1@watdragon.uwaterloo.ca>
- Keywords: fogging, developers, darkroom, old enlargers
- Organization: University of Waterloo
- References: <1e8meuINNlt8@uwm.edu> <1992Nov16.225959.6900@craycos.com> <BxvGBq.6wr@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>
- Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1992 19:16:41 GMT
- Lines: 28
-
- In article <BxvGBq.6wr@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca>, imprint@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca (IMPRINT -- UW's Student Newspaper) writes:
- >
- > Well, all stop bath does is neutralize developer, whereas a water bath
- > simply attempts to leach developer from the print. The fix is an acid
- > as well, and can likely neutralize any developer that remains after the
- > water bath. Another plus to a water bath between dev. and fix. is that
- > there's one less chemical to wash out of the print.
- > And unless you're using that special paper (can't remember the
- > name of it) that will keep developing until it's black, there's no
- > real need to have development stopped instantly.
-
- This from the Kodak Encyclopedia of Practical Photography:
-
- The primary reasons for using an acid rinse or stop bath between
- development and fixing are to check development instantaneously
- by neutralizing the developer carried over, and to maintain
- fixing bath acidity and capacity. The capacity figures given
- for fixers usually apply only when a stop bath is used. An acid
- stop bath also minimizes the formation of dichroic fog, removes
- calcium scum that may have formed in the developer, and tends to
- prevent the formation of alum scum and sludge in the fixing bath.
-
- Stop bath is relatively inexpensive. Rather than avoiding it so you
- have "one less chemical" to wash out, I'd worry about whether your
- fixer's acidity was prematurely exhausted, and whether you were
- compensating for that by over-fixing.
-
- -Darrell.
-