home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
- Path: sparky!uunet!news.centerline.com!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!mick
- From: mick@bigwpi.WPI.EDU (Ravi Narayan)
- Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
- Subject: MINI-NEWBIE-FAQ (was Re: fucking BDI motorcycle drivers)
- Date: 19 Nov 1992 02:55:40 GMT
- Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute
- Lines: 406
- Distribution: world
- Message-ID: <1eevncINNr2r@bigboote.WPI.EDU>
- References: <1992Nov18.161547.46@rediris.es> <1992Nov18.165637.24727@bnr.uk> <1992Nov18.205515.16695@i88.isc.com>
- NNTP-Posting-Host: bigwpi.wpi.edu
- Originator: mick@bigwpi.WPI.EDU
-
-
- In article <1992Nov18.205515.16695@i88.isc.com>, jeq@i88.isc.com (Jonathan E. Quist) writes:
- |>
- |> May Mrs. Sloacom take a liking to you...
-
- isnt that the woman in the bbc show "are you being served?".
- well i was watching that last night, and in comes this other
- lady salesperson (i forget her name - lets call her X) with
- a funny black full face helmet on, shiny leather pants, big
- leather jacket with all the ceremonial thongs, stars etc,
- with mrs. sloacam (sp?) following with her hair standing out
- in the front! turns out they got a ride on a motorcycle with
- mrs.sloacam in the side-car. well... this doesnt sound funny
- at all, anymore :-(... it was interesting though... ;-)
-
- ok, here's a question for net folks. going thru my rec.moto
- archives i found the following very interesting post. sadly
- i have no clue who wrote it. any ideas???
-
- Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
- Subject: First Draft: Questions New Cyclists Ask
- Date: 11 Jul 91 11:18:33 GMT
-
- You must understand that I wrote this document with two particular
- people in mind. They are the kind of people who on more than one
- occasion have said "What do I need to take a class for? Here's the brake,
- here's the gas, what more do you need to Know? and they
- actually meant it! Thus, my main concern here was to nip any
- squidly tendencies in the bud. That should explain the real heavyhanded
- tone that I take here. So, I will tell them how not to be
- a squid and Conrad can tell them what they really need to know.
-
-
-
- **********************CUT HERE******************************
-
- This document is long and wordy, sorry about that. Everthing here
- is at a very basic level and I tried to only cover the immediately
- necessary things. Sorry if I insult anyone's intelligence but I
- didn't want to assume anything. At the end are phone numbers of
- several cheap sources for buying all the things recommended here.
-
-
-
-
- 1) TAKE THE MSF COURSE !!!!!
-
- The first thing you will want to do before buying a bike is to take
- the Motorcycle Safety Foundation course. The course is multi-session (over 1-4
- days) and involves both classroom and riding. Even if you have ridden
- before or have already started riding now you should take the basic class.
- Experienced professionals teach you how to ride, turn, break, accident
- avoidance, etc. ie.generally how not to get crunched. You DON'T need a dmv
- permit/license to take the class, and motorcycles and helmets will
- be provided. Call 1-800-447-4700 (national) or 1-800-cc-rider (CA)
- to find out where to take it. Cost is $50-150 depending on age and
- location, whatever the price, it is well worth it. If you ignore
- all the advice here, don't ignore this one, your health insurance
- company may later thank you! Next year you can take the advanced class.
-
-
-
- 2) BUYING A HELMET
-
- Get one, get one immediately, and get a full face one, they offer
- more protection than half face helmets. Order it early or you will
- either have to sit waiting a few days after you get your bike or
- risk helmet-less rides. You can get one immediately from a dealer
- but you will pay $50-$80 more than if you get it mail order. Order
- the best one you can afford, here isn't the place to skimp and
- order a $50 one (unless of course you have the infamous $50 head).The
- Shoei RF-200 is a good helmet at a reasonable price (about $140
- mail order). Phone numbers for mail orders are included at the end.
-
-
- The fit of the helmet is important, it should be tight enough that
- the pads firmly touch your cheeks. It should be tight enough that
- you can't grab it and roll it off or rotate it from side to side
- very much. But, it should be loose enough that it doesn't pinch or
- bind your cheeks or forehead, this will cause fatigue. Sizes vary
- by brand, A large in one brand will be like a medium in another
- brand. You must try on the exact brand/model in a new (not used)
- version before buying. Go to a dealer or cycle shop and try on
- several, then order mail-order. (and buy something small from the
- dealer for his/her trouble). If it comes in the mail and doesn't
- fit right, return it!
-
-
- Some people claim that helmets restrict your vision, it's not true.
- Others claim it reduces your hearing, it actually helps you hearover
- the engine. As for the claim they cause neck injuries, I can't offer
- any evidence on that but I will take my chances. Wear one fora month
- and decide for yourself. The first week it will feel wierd (especially
- a full face) but it will quickly become as comfy and familiar as your
- old fuzzy blanket.
-
-
-
- 3. SAFETY GEAR
-
- If you want to be fully safe you should be covered from head to toe
- every time you ride. Buy all the equipment you can and wear it,
- even on hot days or for just a jog to the store. Again, get the
- best your budget allows. Good clothing will protect you from the
- nasty cuts and abrasions (and glass!) that happen even in a low
- speed slide. Many people with older used bikes spend about as much
- on equipment/helmet etc. as on our bikes, devote a generous portion
- of your cycling budget to clothing. Here's what you need:
-
- JACKET: Get a high quality leather jacket suitable for motorcycling, not
- a thin "fashion" leather jacket. These begin at about $300. Make the fit
- tight enough that it won't ride up and expose your skin in a slide and
- loose enough that you can put sweaters under when it's cold. Leather isn't
- the warmest garment, its more for protection than cold. See that it closes
- firmly at the neck and wrists or you will get quite cold. Leather made for
- racing is the best but it is expensive. Shop at a motorcycle store or
- good quality leather factory, boutiques and department stores generally
- don't have suitable jackets.
-
- As an alternative to leather, Aerostich makes a high quality
- cordura nylon/kevelar (what bullet proof vests are made of) jacket
- for motorcyclists that is probably better than many leathers. It
- costs about $320 and can be custom made to your size.
-
- PANTS: Ideally you should have leather or Aerostich pants on all
- the time. This can however be expensive as well as impractical
- to walk around in or carry around all day. But, a famous study
- found that Levi's only last for about 4 feet in a slide before they
- give way and expose your bare skin to the pavement (no cite). There
- isn't an easy solution to the protection/inconvenience trade off here.
-
- Aerostich makes pants that zip together with their jackets (~$300)
- or a one piece step in riding suit (~$600) Leather suits come in
- two zip together pieces (jacket/pants). Again, no fashion leather.
-
-
- FOOTGEAR: Good quality leather riding boots are the best protection
- for your feet in a crash. (high boots, no heels!) If you must wear
- sneakers at least make them high tops that cover the ankle and lace them
- firmly. Most kinds of sneakers or regular shoes tend to come off
- in a crash. Sandals, dress shoes or open shoes are out of the
- question, even if you don't crash they make it hard to control the
- bike and land your feet correctly when stopping.
-
- GLOVES: They give you better throttle control and protect you in
- a crash. At first, they feel wierd and make it feel as if it is harder
- to use the controls but you get used to them quickly. Get leather (whatelse?)
- Check saddlery stores if you can't get a good fit at a cycleshop.
-
- EYE PROTECTION: If you don't have a full face helmet then wear
- goggles, without them the wind in your eyes is too intense to see
- properly, sunglasses won't do it because the wind just blows under
- them. With a helmet and shield you will still need to carry
- sunglasses. Without a roof the sun for you will be much more
- glaring than in a car. You can also get a tinted face-shield, but
- only for daytime riding. Get one pair just for the bike and bend
- the paddles (earpieces) of the glasses so that they are straight,
- they will fit under the helmet much easier.
-
-
-
- If you plan to carry passengers you are responsible for providing
- a similar set of gear for them if they don't have their own. Whenever
- you replace your original equipment and clothing consider keeping
- the old stuff around (if it is still serviceable) and building a
- passenger set. Don't let improperly attired people pressure you
- into giving them a ride! (they will try). You will probably want
- to wait at least 6 months before carrying passengers anyway.
-
-
-
- 4. INSURANCE) Same Advice, get it now
-
- Most car companies don't cover bikes so you will need separate
- insurance. Some car companies only cover smaller bikes.
- Cycle insurance is first of all based on the size of the bike, then
- record, age and other factors. A 25 year old with a GS450 can pay
- less than $100 a year, an 18 year old with a ZX-750 (ie. a ninja)
- can pay up to $1000 per year. Cycle mags often advertise companies
- that cover cyclists, you can also get it through dealers, most have
- an association with one or another company.
-
- In an accident with a car, you and your passenger will probably (I
- know all accidents are different!) incur the greatest medical bills
- while the car will incur the greatest property damage. The bike
- will probably be in worse shape than the car, but unless you have
- a fancy new bike the car will probably cost a lot more so
- $$$damages will be higher for the car than the bike. Think about
- this when deciding what coverage to get.
-
-
-
- 5. TOOLS & MANUAL
-
- Start assembling a tool kit to keep in the house and a smaller one
- to carry on the bike, don't worry, even with a brand new bike you
- will soon need it. If you are not willing to do any repair work
- you should either find a rich uncle or reconsider and buy a Volvo.
- Bikes aren't like cars, you can't just slap some new oil in them
- once a year and run them into the ground. They operate on an
- intricate system of cables, chains, mirrors and trick doors that
- all need fairly constant adjustments. A new bike will probably save
- you a lot of early complex repairs but you will still have to
- adjust clutch cables, brake cables, chains, etc. All of these
- require more frequent and more precise adjustments than a car.
- Unlike for cars, there is not a bike shop on every corner and parts
- are much harder to get. Even if you have mucho bucks and are
- willing to let a mechanic do everything it just isn't always
- possible. Luckily bike repair is easier (I think) and mor
- enjoyable than doing a car.
-
- Order a Clymer repair manual as soon as you get your bike, also
- consider the factory service manuals if they are available. Clymer
- should run you $15. If you want to go all out you can even keep
- frequently used spare parts around, it's a pain not to ride for a
- month when Kawasaki takes that long to deliver a stupid $10 part,
- but that's going beyond beginner advice so back to the story.
-
-
-
- The basics for your tool kit will include:
-
- )))A set of spare spark plugs
- )))A spark plug socket and socket wrench
- )))Impact driver and hammer for removing hard to turn screws on the
- engine covers (oil filter cover, point cover, timing cover,)
- )))An adjustable wrench
- )))Spare cotter pins for the axles and pliers to remove them
- )))Spare chain master link and clip
- )))Tire pressure gauge
-
- These are what I would call the very basics, I'm sure others would
- argue with me so go ahead and accumulate whatever you wish to your
- little hearts desire. Consider how badly it would ruin your day not
- to ride because you are waiting for a part on order or how much/far
- you are willing to push home if you break down without tools and
- plan accordingly.
-
- Remember, this document errs on the conservative side, hopefully
- you will have a smooth cycling experience and will never have to
- push home. Proper care and feeding of your motorcycle will make
- this even less likely.
-
-
-
- 6. Miscellaneous
-
-
- 1) Buy same chain lube right away. You have to put it on your
- chain every 200 miles and those miles will accumulate quickly.
-
- 2) You can accesorize until your bank account is busted, I
- won't advise you on that. One (I think) necessity is a bungy net
- for carrying those objects one inevitably picks up in the course
- of a day. You can get fancy and more expensive options (tank bags
- etc.) later
-
- 3) When your bike won't start, check first that the three most
- obvious things are in the operating position (kill switch,
- sidestand, fuel petcock) before running for the manual. Yes, we
- have ALL at one time or another sat scratching our head trying to
- start the bike and then found one of these in the off position.
-
- 4) You can keep your bike shiny new and prevent rusting by
- covering it at night and giving it an occasional polishing (as well
- as cleaning) with a scotchbright nylon pad and a little Mother's
- aluminum polish or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. Besides appearance,
- it helps with maintenance, rusted parts can be a bitch to remove.
-
- 5) The fork lock on the ignition can be easily broken, if you
- value your ride consider a kryptonite lock or other protection.
-
- 6) If you ever plan to not ride for 2-3 months (vacation,snow) you must
- properly prepare you bike for storage in advance or
- else you will have some nasty stuff to deal with upon your return
- (ie. an inoperable bike) I won't go into all the details of
- removing batteries, draining tanks, etc here, just be aware that
- you need to find out the procedure before winter/vacation. A
- battery charger is a good investment if you will need it to do this,
- it will pay for itself quick.
-
- 7) Always be courteous and wave to other cyclists on the road,
- even if they ride brands you hate. Oh yeah- and as Honda says on
- their gas tanks "preserve nature" 8-)
-
-
- 8. DOD- Turn up that flamethrower now
-
- Of course you must plan to read rec.motorcycles regularly. A daily
- dose of bragging, flaming, false bravado and generally sound good
- advice is a necessary component of the riding experience. Brush up
- on your begging ability, you will need it to get a DOD number. Then
- tune up your flame thrower and be ready to cast it on people who
- ask questions like "I already ride a bicycle, how hard could a
- motorcycle be?" or "Why does the daemon mascot look like an owl?"
-
-
-
- 8. Phone Numbers
-
-
- The Big Guys
- The following companies are large mail order houses that will ship
- at least nation wide with the appropriate shipping and handling
- fee. (Sorry! I don't know about outside the U.S.) The things they
- carry include: helmets, jackets, T-shirts, repair manuals, tires,
- exhausts, chains, fairings, oil & chemicals, brake pads, in short,
- almost anything you could want.
-
- Chapparal- (San Bernadino, CA) Will send free Catalogue. 1-800-841-2960
-
-
- Motorcycle Accessories Warehouse) (CA, NV & PA) Will send free
- catalogue I believe. 1-800-241-2222
-
- Competition Accessories- (Xenia, OH) 1-800-543-3535. Don't know
- about catalogue (any company will send it free with an order though)
-
- Dennis Kirk- Will send free catalogue, 1-800-328-9280
-
- Shade Tree- 1-800-866-4747, Free Cat.
-
- Donelson Cycles- (St. Louis) 1-800-325-4144. Small charge for
- catalogue I believe.
-
- Laurel Highlands- 1-800-332-0670 (Norvelt, PA) $2 for cat.
-
-
-
- Specialty Houses
- They carry one or two types of products exclusively. All have
- shipping in at least the continental U.S.
-
- Bates Leather (Long Beach, CA) ) They make high quality
- motorcycling jackets and pants. They are reportedly very good at making sizes
- to fit women. They will send you a catalogue and
- samples for $3.00. 213-435-6551
-
- Aerostich- Makers of very high quality cordura/kevelar riding
- suits. They will send you a free catalogue. If you are female or
- unusually sized you should ask to speak to one of the seamstresses
- when ordering the suit as Andy Goldfine (the owner & designer)
- isn't too swift at fitting women's sizes, but he is a heck of a
- nice guy anyway. 1-800-222-1994
-
- Autobound (Alameda, CA) Retail store devoted exclusively to books
- about driving or riding, particularly repair manuals. Despite the
- awful name of the store, they do carry an extensive line of
- motorcycle manuals, including many older, hard to find ones.
- Warning, go here as a last resort, their prices can be up to $10
- higher than at the dealer or through mail order. 415-521-8630
-
- Hidalgo- they make sunglasses and prescription eyeglasses that are
- easy to fit under helmets. Prices are less than any optical store.
- Will send free catalogue. 1-800-786-2021
-
- Cycle Tow- (San Francisco Bay Area Only!) Rich Gibbon is a nice guy.
- Should your cycle ever be stuck inoperable somewhere, he will transport it
- for you (for a nominal fee of course) in a truck specifically
- equipped for hauling/towing motorcycles. He is based at Berkeley
- Yamaha, price will vary with distance. 415-525-8243 or pager at 415-678-2174.
-
-
- Cool-Tech Leather Jackets- 1-800-426-4704 Free cat
-
-
- Mike Corbin- Boots and Seats, Custom made. Pricey but reputed to
- be the best. 1-800-662-6296 ( Toll free is CA only?)
-
-
- Parts Dealers
-
- Always go to your local dealer first before going to these places.
- Your business keeps them in business, that way the local guy will
- be there when you need them. If you have no local dealer or he/she
- is obstinate, uncooperative, or sexist then you can try one of these
- places
-
- Midwest Action Cycle) Suzuki, Kawasaki, Honda
- 1-800-323-0078 (no catalogues for parts)
-
-
- I could list many more fine places here, but I will let you
- discover all the rest of the places that will be happy to take your
- money and make you more unwilling to part with your bike than ever.
-
-
-
- I know this sounds like a ton of stuff and might at this point make
- the sport seem more complicated than it's worth. Nothing could be further
- from the truth!
-
-
- Revised July 1991
-
-
- --
- ----------_________----------__________----------__________----------_______
- .sig (n): a piece of mail with a fool at one | Ravi Narayan, CS, WPI
- end and flames at the other. (C). | 89 SuzukiGS500E - Phaedra ;)
- __________---------__________---------__________---------__________---------
- --
- ----------_________----------__________----------__________----------_______
- sig (n): a piece of mail with a fool at one | Ravi Narayan, CS, WPI
- end and flames at the other. (C). | 89 SuzukiGS500E - Phaedra ;)
- __________---------__________---------__________---------__________---------
-