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- Path: sparky!uunet!mcsun!uknet!gdt!aber!azw
- From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andrew Michael Woodward)
- Newsgroups: rec.climbing
- Subject: Re: Macho quiz (for Laura) - training the head muscles
- Message-ID: <1992Nov19.110059.19024@aber.ac.uk>
- Date: 19 Nov 92 11:00:59 GMT
- References: <13543@ecs.soton.ac.uk>
- Organization: University of Wales, Aberystwyth
- Lines: 13
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- Technique is most of it. If you want to be good, develop strength first,
- then hope hte technique will come. It wont, cos whenever you come to a
- problem, yopu'll thug it and learn nothing.
-
- If you want to be REALLY good, dont train for power until you can flow
- at least E5 smoothly. The neccessary power for this (surprisingly little)
- will come by just climbing. While you are weak, you learn to cheat
- everything by using two extra aid points than everyone else (your feet).
- You also learn to dance and play chess. This lets you scorch up stuff
- by finessing it rather than grinding tediously up on power.
-
- Now you add the power and before long you'll be the best.
-