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- From: ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble)
- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Subject: Re: isobutane/propane (was Re: Charging A/C with Freon)
- Message-ID: <1992Jul28.203823.23984@en.ecn.purdue.edu>
- Date: 28 Jul 92 20:38:23 GMT
- References: <1992Jul20.153331.24083@bnr.ca> <1992Jul25.154235.29252@en.ecn.purdue.edu> <1992Jul27.185249.18998@gtephx.UUCP>
- Distribution: na
- Organization: Purdue University Engineering Computer Network
- Lines: 97
-
- In article <1992Jul27.185249.18998@gtephx.UUCP> rakoczynskij@gtephx.UUCP (Jurek Rakoczynski) writes:
- >In article <1992Jul25.154235.29252@en.ecn.purdue.edu>, ghg@en.ecn.purdue.edu (George Goble) writes:
- >[ Various parts between the following text have been deleted ]
- >
- >> Hydrocarbons: Blend of 21% isobutane, 79% propane (by weight)
- >>
- >> If bought in bulk, hydrocarbons only cost
- >> about $.50 to recharge your A/C system.
- >>
-
- [stuff deleted]
-
- >: the remander with propane.
- >
- >My questions:
- >My experience with a/c system in minimal; only the theory. But
- >George's and John's comments have peaked a few questions about using
- >this mix. Please rephrase my questions or expand your answers if
- >appropriate:
- >
- >1. Moisture content! Is using torch propane rather the fuel grade any
- >differant? I guess so as you state but what would I have to ask for?
- >Do I need to state it or do the specs define max moisture content?
- >Isobutane I assume is typically only available as a camping
- >fuel? I guess I could find a wholesaler for "bulk" purchase, but what
- >about the few pounds (< 15#) for the Saturday mechanic.
-
- The consumer grade propane/isobutane is all the same I think.
- I used hamburger-gas and it worked fine for me.. but you never know
- what you will get. I know it has *SOME* water in it, since work
- with self-sealing refrigerants later in the same car, and sight glasses
- showed it was wet. AGA speciality gasses (via welding shops) has 15lb or
- so of isobutane, but it was $150 or so. Phillips-66 will sell 115lbs or
- 270lbs (?) containers. The 115 lbs is around $300 or so + $100 deposit
- on the cylinder. This is "pure" (99.0%) grade, no moisture, small amounts
- of butane, ethane, etc, which are harmless. No odorant. You need to sign
- a release that you will not use it for motor vehicle fuel. Their number
- is 800-858-4327. If it was me, I would probably get hamburger grade
- propane & camping fuel isobutane, mix it first in a propane cylinder
- (20 lb grill tank). Then take a 2nd tank, with a vac on it, and use
- a heater blanket and liquid transfer it back and forth to the 2nd tank.
- Heat the tank you want it to leave. Put in a large refrigeration
- liquid line drier (About $10) in the line and a moisture indicating
- site glass (about $8).. when the glass goes "green" (or blue if it
- is the pink-blue type), you have dried it out enough. One could also
- set one tank outside and one inside to get a temp difference to make
- it transfer.. invert the tanks for liquid transfer. If using a new
- propane cyl, it will probably have grit in the bottom.. waste a tank
- and invert it and blow it all out in some field to get the dirt out.
-
- >
- >2. If I premix as John mentions, is there a problem with mixing so that
- >perhaps one liquid might drain fron the tank into the a/c first before
- >the other one?
-
- You must use liquid transfer to keep the liquids together.. if vapor
- transfer is used, the mix will change
-
- >
- >3. If I use George's method of adding isobutane first, isn't there a
- >problem when adding propane that the pressure in the system will prevent
- >me from adding the entire contents of the propane bottle, and therefore
- >be short of propane. Would it be better then to premix? If I don't
- >premix, how would you use the pressure reading to determine if you need
- >more mix?
-
- Static (non running pressure) should be around 70 PSIG (+- 5 PSIG) at
- 70F. For 80F, pressure should be 83 PSIG +- 8 PSIG. Just dump in some
- isobutane into a propane tank with a Vac on it, then slowly add propane
- until the above pressures happen. take your time, and let the tank
- warm up. Shake every now and then.
- >
- >4. The ideal mix should maintain the same a/c efficiency as freon. Can
- >you post some efficiency % change with other ratios; in case I screwup
- >the mix ratios!
- >
- >Thanks for all your information!
-
- more propane will run up the pressures, but cool more. Pure propane will
- give head pressures of 700-800 PSIG, and may even burst the evaporator
- if the car is parked on the hot sun (270 PSIG @ 120F). same for R-22.
- Anything above 400 PSIG on the head will break something on a car A/C.
-
- Watch the head pressure when charging, stop if it goes above 200 or so
- on a cool (70F) day.. and 350 PSIG on a hot (85-90F) day. You either got
- too much charge or too much propane in.
- >--
- >Jurek Rakoczynski, AG Communication Systems, POB 52179, Phoenix, AZ. 85072
- >UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!rakoczynskij Voice: +1 602 581 4867
- >Inet: gtephx!rakoczynskij@enuucp.eas.asu.edu Fax: +1 602 582 7111
- >Inet: /DD.UN=J.RAKOCZYNSKI/O=GTE/PRMD=GTEMAIL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/@sprint.com
-
-
- WOuld there by any market in selling a "premix" camping fuel, which
- would just happen to be the correct pressures for R-12?
-
- --ghg
-