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- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!stanford.edu!leland.Stanford.EDU!eap
- From: eap@leland.Stanford.EDU (Eric Perozziello)
- Subject: Re: How to use blue silicone RTV
- Message-ID: <1992Jul28.011644.24671@leland.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: news@leland.Stanford.EDU (Mr News)
- Organization: DSG, Stanford University, CA 94305, USA
- References: <1992Jul27.181337.21819@Arco.COM> <1992Jul27.203024.13274@mlb.semi.harris.com>
- Distribution: usa
- Date: Tue, 28 Jul 92 01:16:44 GMT
- Lines: 29
-
- In article <1992Jul27.203024.13274@mlb.semi.harris.com> jws@billy.mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger) writes:
- >
-
- [Most of a good article on gasket sealing tricks deleted]
-
- > Next, or maybe first, attach the gasket to the piece that's off the engine
- >(valve cover, water pump, what have you). Start by cleaning it as above.
- >Then coat the sealing surface and the mating face of the gasket with the
- >gasket goo of your choice. I prefer Permatex Liquid Copper for this phase,
- >
-
- One thing I'd add:
- We used to use the following : for the side of the gasket that
- bonds to the removable part, the 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive,
- and for the side that DOESN'T remove, use permatex blue. That way,
- when (if) you haveta take it apart again, the gasket will stick
- to the removable part, so it can be wire-wheeled off.
-
- This trick was used at our shop for many years (and I beleive still is)
- and musta been used for tens-of-thousands of jobs with no problems.
- Any sealing problems were related to other problems (as described in
- jws's article, non-flat surfaces, etc).
-
- I should add that I wouldn't use these sealers on any part that
- is in contact with raw gasoline, such as carbs.
-
- -Eric
-
-
-