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- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!stanford.edu!kronos.arc.nasa.gov!chucko
- From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
- Subject: Re: Increasing power?
- Message-ID: <1992Jul27.210810.22598@kronos.arc.nasa.gov>
- Sender: usenet@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Will Edgington, wedgingt@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov)
- Nntp-Posting-Host: mccarthy.arc.nasa.gov
- Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
- References: <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca> <1992Jul24.183321.25371@kronos.arc.nasa.gov> <1992Jul27.170616.21276@bnr.ca>
- Distribution: na
- Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1992 21:08:10 GMT
- Lines: 67
-
- In article <1992Jul27.170616.21276@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
- >|> In article <1992Jul24.133816.20347@bnr.ca> Peon w/o Email priv (Eric Youngblood) writes:
- >|> >Does anyone have any ideas on how to increase the power produced by a normally
- >|> >aspirated V-8 engine?
-
- >The power output builds pretty evenly up through 3200 RPM and then it really
- >begins so pull hard up to the shift at about 5000 rpm. The 1-2 shift breaks the
- >rear end loose and it will get squirrelly on you if you are not paying attention.
- >It feels like its still pulling strong when it shifts and gives you a good kick-in
- >-the-pants. Also the 1-2 shift puts the rpm in the 3000 range for 2nd gear. Bottom
- >line is pulls best above 3000 rpm.
-
- Sounds like you might want to do two things to the transmission. You
- can probably up the shift speed a little, say to 5200 or so. (No
- reason to go nuts with it.) And it sounds like the torque curve is
- wide enough to deal with a wide-ratio gear set, if you can find one
- for that trans. This would lower your 1st gear ratio while leaving
- your high gear alone, making for better ETs without killing fuel
- economy on the street. This might be a better choice than changing
- the rear end.
-
- >Street driving is a breeze and this idle is smooth enough to leave in gear at
- >stoplights. Allthough you can *definitely* tell there's some addition cam in the
- >engine. I would consider it streetable.
-
- Sounded like it from your initial description. I wouldn't touch that
- motor!! You don't want to mess with success.
-
- >|> >Traction is provided by Goodyear ST P235R15 radials. Track times
- >|> >indicate an extreemly sluggish 60 foot times.
-
- >|> Do you have problems getting traction? These tires aren't known for
- >|> their ability to grip the 'strip. If you get serious about drag
- >|> racing, get serious drag tires. You may need other traction remedies
- >|> as well.
-
- >Traction off the line NOT! I cant get near full throttle until about 5-10 mph,
- >otherwise I'll just sit and spin. I will brake torque the drive train and then
- >apply about half throttle until after 5mph and then full throttle.
-
- Yeah, you could probably use better tires. I forget what's the hot
- setup on the strip these days; look around and see what the quick guys
- are using, then stuff as much tire under those fenders as you can.
- But keep in mind that what's great on the strip doesn't work so well
- on the street; you'll want to haul, not drive, your drag tires to the
- track.
-
- Once you start playing games with the suspension, you open a big can
- of worms. But if you have the patience, you can pick up a bunch of
- time off the line. Here again, what's best on the track may not be
- ideal on the street.
-
- Another approach that no one has mentioned is lightening the car by
- removing anything non-essential. You could also mount the battery
- over the right rear wheel; this improves the weight on the rear tires
- and keeps the right rear down under heavy torque.
-
- >so far the most recommended change is to the rear-end ratio followed closely by
- >alterations to the torque converter (higher stall) and tires (better traction).
-
- >All of these could improve the numbers.
-
- Have fun, and keep it off the fences...
-
- -- Chuck Fry Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
- National bench-racing champion
-
-