Enough sun and surf, time to leave Kuta Beach for a cultural reprieve. We took a two day trip to Ubud, the "calm and peaceful cultural center of Bali".
ART
The museums in and around Ubud had some fabulous stuff. Much more than I can say for the garbage they tried to sell us on the streets:
"Hey Mister, look at these lovely paintings - only 130,000 rupiah."
What a bargain? Who can really judge art - the difference between a Picasso masterpiece and the finger painting of a 3rd grader is minimal. But when someone asks a decent amount of money for an art piece, you should expect decent quality. Unfortunately, much of the artwork being sold by the commercial vendors was shabby - cheap wood used for carvings, tattered canvases used for paintings. With a bit of luck, they might make the journey home. Buyers beware - make sure you're getting what you pay for. There are some great local craftsman, but there are a lot of folks out to make a quick buck.
DANCE
Talk about culture... we went to a dance in Ubud. It was a tourist introduction to native dance. Three fabulous dances packed into one short hour. Yes, all of the popular favorites: the Monkey Dance, the Trance Dance, and of course that classic oldie but goodie, the Fire Dance.
This critic's review: The dancing didn't knock me out of my seat, but the chanting in the monkey was mesmerizing. The old guy kicking the ashes around in the Fire Dance ... well, it looked painful.
NOTE: Everything is relative. My wife says I'm about as culturally developed as Neanderthal man.
Date: 01-07-95
Place: Bali
Subj: The True Spirit of Bali
Author: Irina Zimmerman
The true spirit of Bali lies in its people. The Balinese are an unusually friendly and outgoing people (once you leave the tourist centers). Their culture is filled with festivals, ceremonies, dances, and template processions. Anyone who is fortunate enough to spend several weeks in small villages instead of the normal tourist traps will forever cherish the memory. If you visit Bali and spend all your time in tourist centers like Kuta beach, you have not experienced Bali. Tourism may have ruined the tourist enclaves, but the rest of Bali remains as beautiful and mystical as ever.
Date: 02-12-95
Place: Tanah Lot, Bali
Subj: Lessons in Ruining a Tourist Attraction
Author: Terry Patterson
Tanah Lot is a beautiful temple about 40 minutes from Kuta beach. Built on an impressive rock formation surrounded by ocean, the temple is a spectacular sight.
Much to my dismay, I discovered that the Balinese had developed creative ways to ruin such a beautiful and sacred spot.
First, there is a total lack of shade around the parking area. It's delightful watching a bus full of tourists unload under the mid-day sun onto the hot asphalt. Watch them burn as they hike from the parking area to the Temple.
Second, instead of walking directly to the temple, you are sent on a detour through a gauntlet of vendors all viciously attempting to hawk their goods. Once again, the lack of shade makes this walk a delight. I think the reasoning must be, "Keep the tourists hot and uncomfortable. Then they'll feel like stopping for a drink, and we can charge outrageously high prices and rip them off." It seemed like a setting for a bad beer commercial.
Third, after running the gauntlet of vendors you must pay an entry fee to enter the viewing area. The fee isn't high, it's just annoying - especially after you enter and realize you're being subjected to shops like those outside. It leaves one wondering, "what am I paying for?"
Fourth, when you finally see the temple, you are surrounded by Fuji film ads, mores shops, and a bar that charges outrageous prices. There is no place to have a quiet, natural view of this extraordinary temple.
Date: 01-18-95
Place: Bali
Subj: Impressions of Bali
Author: Elaine Brown
Maybe my expectations were high, but Bali disappointed me. It was a nice place, but not as special and magical as I'd imagined it. The millions of tourists that have flocked to this remote island have certainly left their mark. Many of the beach resorts are over-developed and crowded. Hawkers swarm tourist trying to sell their wares. Tour buses roaring down country roads. Tourism has certainly been a mixed blessing to the people of Bali.
What I liked about Bali: the Balinese are extremely friendly, it's a safe place, the beaches are beautiful, the water is clean, the sea meeting the mountains, and the lush tropic jungles.
What I disliked: too commercially developed, too many tourists, the Kuta beach scene.
Date: 11-14-93
Place: Bali
Subj: Intro to Bali
Author: Bali Tourism Office
In the midst of the many islands forming the Indonesian archipelago lies Bali - an island so picturesque that it seems like a Disney fairy-tail. Scenic beaches, crystal clear water, lush green forests, volcanoes soaring to the skies, and the ever-present rice paddies scattered throughout the countryside... Bali leaves a lasting impression on any visitor.
Date: 01-05-95
Place: Bali (vicinity)
Subj: Tips from a Tourist - Gili Meno
Author: Rory Donohue
Tired of the Bali tourist trap? We were, so off we went to Lombok (a neighboring island) - only to find more of the same. It was on Lombok that someone suggested catching a boat to the Gili Islands. There are three small islands off the coast of Lombok, and although they have been touched by tourism, they remain a pleasant retreat from the tourist ridden "mainland".
We stayed on Gili Meno, a seemingly deserted tropical island. Crystal clear, aquamarine water, deserted white sandy beaches... a tropical paradise.
It was quite a contrast to the rest of our stay in Bali. Instead of the hustle and bustle of Kuta beach, we were amazed by the slow relaxing pace of an island without running water or electricity.
A hut for two on the beach cost 17,500 rupiah per day - including meals ($8.80). Great food, friendly people, amazing snorkeling, a Robinson Crusoe adventure.
The only discomforts: a bit hot and humid at night, our roof leaked so our bed was wet, no fresh running water. But this was part of the charm.
Our days consisted of swimming, snorkeling, walks, meals, chatting with others guests, and drinking (of course). At night we would all gather in the pavilion to chat, drink, and play chess.
Date: 10-24-94
Place: Bali
Subj: Dishonest Guides
Author: Peter Kim
Do not climb Mt. Batur with a pleasant looking guide named Wayan. As nice as he may seem, he's very dishonest and will try to rip you off. We experienced problems with him and spoke to others who also had the same problem. If there aren't any other guides available, do it yourself - it's really an easy hike.
Date: 8-2-94
Place: Bali
Subj: Funerals and Tourists
Author: Vance Ellis
In Bali a funeral is a celebration, but this celebration can often be ruined by ill-mannered tourists. Many tourists tend to treat the funerals more like a theater production than a religious ceremony. Photographing the corpse, disturbing the prayers, being annoying. It's an embarrassment for the rest of us.
Date: 01-27-95
Place: Legian, Bali
Subj: Great Hotel - Bad for the Environment
Author: Patricia Raymond
The Bali Oberoi is the most magnificent hotel I've ever seen in my life. Yes, the rooms are beautiful, but what really makes the place is the setting. Walking down the beach, I hardly noticed the place, and that is the beauty of the Oberoi. The bungalows are hidden behind palms. The restaurant is covered with wood and bamboo. From the bar on the patio, there is a spectacular view of the sunset, and the ocean is lit at night. They've really done an excellent job on this place.
BUT... an unfortunate side effect of the commercial development in Bali has been the massive destruction of the coral reefs. Coral is an excellent building material, but as more is removed, erosion increases and beaches quickly disappear. Some of the major offenders in coral destruction: the Bali Hyatt, the Bali Oberoi, and Poppies Cottages.
Date: 02-07-95
Place: Bali
Subj: Future Development of Bali
Author: Bali Tourism Office
To insure that the nature of Bali will not be drastically changed, there are strict regulations on the commercial development of areas outside of the official tourist development regions. The only large scale development currently permitted in Bali is in the southern region (Kuta and Nusa Dua).
The strict enforcement of these regulations will insure that Bali remains as unspoiled as possible. This combined with other environmental regulations are part of a new packaged designed to protect the natural beauty of Bali.
