Computerworld 1996 March/Computerworld_1996-03_cd.bin/idg_cd3/aplikace/domacnos/wgarden1/pests.txt

Text File | 1995-03-06 | 27.3 KB | 574 lines

                                 Aphids

   Aphids or Plant lice are most commonly green; however some
species are black, pink, or yellow. They are small (only 2 tenths
inch) soft-bodied insects. Clusters of aphids are commonly found
on peas. They damage plants by sucking the sap out of the stems,
curling and yellowing the leaves. While feeding they can inject
poisonous saliva or organisms which can cause diseases. The
insect secretes a liquid called honeydew which can grow mold
fungus.
  Control aphids with Diazinon, Malathion, or Thiodan
insecticides. Organic alternatives are spraying with soapy water,
squashing between the fingers for small infestations, or
increasing the numbers of ladybugs, lacewings, and wasp parasites
in your garden.
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                             Asparagus beetle

  The Asparagus beetle is a slender, 1/4 inch long beetle
blue-black in color with a reddish head and three yellow squares
on each wing cover. This little devil wreaks havoc on asparagus
by chewing on the shoots and often completely defoliating the
plants.
  Control this pest by dusting with pyrethrum or rotenone
insecticides. An organic approach to getting rid of this beetle
is not known other than turning loose some chickens or ducks in
the garden to have a snack. Prevention is about the best thing,
cleaning up leaves and trash to keep the beetle from finding a
comfortable home to overwinter in.
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                             Bean leaf beetle

  Bean leaf beetles (two tenths inch long) are generally red to
yellow in color with a black band on the edges of the first pair
of wings. Some may have three to four spots on the back. They
overwinter in the garden, emerging in the spring to feed on the
underside of young bean and pea leaves.
  Insecticides include Diazinon, Malathion, and Sevin. The
organic approach is to hand pick and to plant as early in the
spring as possible.
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                              Blister beetles

  Blister beetles are long, slender, three-fourths inch long
beetles; either gray, black, or striped in color. They feed on
leaves and flowers.
  To control this beetle use Thiodan insecticide. Hand pick to
control them organically, but be sure to wear gloves as this
nasty little bug gives off a caustic fluid hence its name.
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                              Cabbage loopers

  The Cabbage looper or Cabbage worm is a pale yellow, green, or
brown caterpillar one inch in length. They often have light
stripes going down the back and a yellow head. They chew large
holes in leaves and eat their way into the heads of cabbage and
collards type plants.
  Control cabbage worms with Diazinon, Malathion, or Sevin
insecticides. An organic cure is Bacillus Thuringiensis, which
will give the worm a big time, life ending tummy ache; and, of
course, if you do not mind green and yellow guts squash the
little bugger.
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                              Cabbage maggots

  Cabbage maggots are white maggots one third inch in length.
Left uncontrolled the maggot will develop into a fly, dark gray
with black stripes on the thorax. The maggot attacks the plant
from just below the soil surface, creating brownish tunnels in
the stems. The plant will turn yellow, wilt, and eventually die.
  To control the maggot you need to control the fly that lays the
egg. Try covering rows with a fine mesh netting such as
cheesecloth and as usual planting as early as possible will
reduce the number of pests that have hatched out yet.
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                            Carrot rust flies

  The Carrot rust fly lays its eggs near carrots just below the
surface of the soil. The maggots then bore their way into the
roots of carrots and similar plants, causing a rusty coloration
and rotting the plant.
  Crop rotation will help to control the problem.
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                              Carrot weevils

  The Carrot weevil is a one eight to one fourth inch copper or
dark brown colored weevil. This weevil lays eggs which hatch a
white grub. The grub attacks the plant's roots and feeds on them
for a couple of weeks before emerging from the soil, by then the
damage is done.
  The weevil overwinters in garden debris and weeds. Keeping a
clean garden will help to control this pest. Deep tilling will
also help in destroying in weevils or grubs that are still at
home.
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                                Chinch bug

  Chinch bugs start out as nymphs, reddish in color with a white
band across the middle. They then change to black with a white
band. The adult chinch bug is black with white wings and a
triangular black spot on each wing. This bug is known for the
destruction it can cause to lawns, sucking the sap out of the
bases of grass blades and causing discoloration. Grass will have
the same appearance as a lawn that is going through a dry spell,
changing the grass color from green to yellow and then to brown.
In the garden the chinch bug creates similar problems.
  Keeping your garden free of grass and weeds will help. To
control grass and weeds try planting some peas or beans amongst
the corn crop to shade the base of the plants and reduce weed
growth.
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                          Colorado potato beetles

  The Colorado potato beetle, one fourth inch in length, is
yellow with fine black stripes on its wing covers. It lays
clusters of yellow looking eggs on the underside of leaves. From
these hatch the grub, red in color with two rows of black dots on
each side and a black head. These destructive little grubs are
capable of quickly defoliating potato plants and other related
plants.
  Insecticides include Diazinon, Sevin, and Thiodan. Some organic
approaches are to: handpick the yellow eggs; spray with extract
of basil; plant marigold, garlic, or horseradish amongst the
plants to help repel the pest; or in the case of potatoes, try
growing them on top of the soil using straw or similar material
to keep the plant covered.
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                               Corn earworms

  The Corn earworm or Tomato Fruitworm is yellow-green, brown, or
pinkish in color with light stripes on their sides and back.
These little yellow headed monsters are capable of growing up to
two inches in length. On corn they attack the tassels and ears,
causing damage to the fruit and problems with pollination when
they eat on the silk. It is a common site to shuck an ear of
corn, finding the worm eating away at the tip of the corn. They
also can also damage corn leaves before the plant has a chance to
mature. On tomatoes the worm feeds on the leaves before eating
into the green fruit. The corn earworm can also be found doing
similar damage on a wide variety of plants.
  To control the pest use Sevin or Thiodan insecticides in liquid
or dust forms; or dust with Diazinon. To control organically use
Bacillus thuringiensis on corn and rotenone on tomato plants.
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                              Cowpea Curculio

  The Cowpea curculio is a tiny black beetle which is rarely
seen. In general curculios have a head with a long snout and
biting parts at the tip. They hatch a white grub which feeds on
the developing seeds within the pods of beans and peas.
  Insecticides include Sevin or Thiodan in liquid or dust forms
and Diazinon in the dust form. The organic approach would be to
simply keep a clean garden, free of debris, so as not to give the
beetle a place to overwinter in. In the spring tilling the ground
deep will help to destroy any grubs that are still around.
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                             Cucumber beetles

  Cucumber beetles are one fourth inch long with a black head.
The Striped cucumber beetle has yellow wing covers with three
black stripes running the length of its body. The Spotted
cucumber beetle has a yellow-green body with twelve black spots
on its back. The biggest threat from this beetle is from the host
of bacterial diseases it can carry, in particular cucumber wilt.
It also feeds on the blooms of a variety of ornamental flowers.
  Insecticides include Diazinon, Malathion, Sevin, and Thiodan.
To control organically, dust with rotenone. Crop rotation and
heavy mulching are also a plus.
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                                 Cutworms

  Cutworms are dull colored gray, brown, or black caterpillars of
night-flying moths. Some may have a few bristly hairs. They do
most of their damage at night, hiding during the day curled up
just below the top of the soil. The main destruction comes from
the cutworms eating away at young plant's stems at soil level,
basically chopping the plant down. Some varieties will climb the
plant, feeding on leaves and fruit.
  The insecticide Diazinon can be used prior to planting, tilling
the soil two to three inches deep immediately. Organic methods
are: Place a swizel stick right up next to young plants. That way
the worm can not cut all the way around the base of the plant.
Put a cardboard collar around the plant one inch deep or so.
Scatter crushed egg shells or mulched oak leaves around the
plants. Cultivating close to plants will help to destroy any
worms just below the soil; and as usual, keeping a clean weed-
free garden will deter the moth from laying its eggs in your
garden.
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                           European corn borers

  This caterpillar is one inch long, flesh in color, with brown
spots and a dark brown head. They attack corn stalks, tassels,
and ears. A number of other vegetables are effected by this pest,
including several ornamental flowers.
  To control corn borers, be sure to burn or till under old
cornstalks where they frequently overwinter. For small cases,
hand picking will help. For bigger problems, an organic solution
is Bacillus Thuringiensis.
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                               Flea beetles

  This small (no more than one sixteenth of an inch) jumping
beetle chews small round to irregular shaped holes in leaves,
giving the appearance of the plants being peppered with fine
shot.
  Treat with Sevin insecticide to get rid of the beetle.
Organically speaking, a clean garden will help. Also,
interplanting with garlic or dusting with rotenone can aid in
repelling it.
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                               Grasshoppers

  Grasshoppers are green, gray, or brown in color and grow one to
two inches in length. This is not always a harmful insect; but in
some parts of the country can be a serious problem, chewing and
destroying plants.
  One organic solution is to mix hot peppers, soap, and water;
however spraying is generally ineffective. Covering plants with a
fine mesh, such as cheesecloth, can help to protect plants. Also,
try setting traps of jars containing syrup or molasses.
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                             Green stink bugs

  Stink bugs are one half inch in length and green or brown in
color. As their names imply, they emit an unpleasant odor when
crushed. They do their damage by sucking the sap out of
developing pea and bean pods. Stink bugs can also be seen in
numbers on ripe tomatoes, puncturing and damaging the fruit.
  Use Sevin or Thiodan insecticides for control. Organically,
hand picking with gloves is difficult. Spraying with soap and
water may be somewhat helpful.
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                              Harlequin bugs

  Harlequin bugs are one third to one half inch long. They are
black in color with yellow, orange, or bright red markings. The
bug sucks the sap out of collards, cabbage, mustard, and turnips.
Plants wilt, turn brown, and eventually die.
  The insecticide Sevin helps control the problem. Organic
methods are as follows: Try planting some turnips near the
effected vegetable you are trying to protect. The bug will be
attracted by the turnips, where you can gather up and destroy the
pest. Soap sprays, sabadilla, and pyrethrum also will control the
pest.
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                          Imported cabbage worms

  The Imported cabbage worm is a one inch long caterpillar,
bright green in color with short fine hair. The adult is a white
butterfly with three spots on the wings. In early spring yellow
eggs are laid at the bottom of leaves where they hatch the worm.
They destroy cabbage and lettuce, feeding on the leaves.
  Control the pest organically with Bacillus thuringensis and
rotenone. Keeping a clean garden will also help to keep the worm
from making home. A fine mesh cheesecloth netting will help
protect plants.
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                             Japanese beetles

  Japanese beetles are shiny green with copper colored wings. The
beetle is about one half inch in length. The adult feeds on the
flowers and foliage of effected plants, while the young one inch
long grub feeds on the plants roots.
  Organically, control these by hand picking or treating with
rotenone.
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                                Leafhoppers

  There are a few different kinds of leafhoppers, but all have
the typical wedge shaped body and hold their wings in a rooflike
position when sitting still. Most are usually yellow, green, or
white and as their name implies are jumping insects. They cause
damage by sucking the sap from the underside of leaves, which
leads to loss of plant color and vigor. Also, leafhoppers carry a
host of diseases and viruses.
  An organic approach would be to keep a clean weed-free garden
and treating the pest with rotenone, pyrethrum, or nicotine
preparations.
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                                Leafminers

  Leafminers are small grub or caterpillars that tunnel their way
through the upper and lower surfaces of plant leaves, eating leaf
tissue as they go. This leads to either a blotchy or yellowish
foliage color.
  The insecticide Malathion gets rid of some types of leafminers.
To control organically, simply pick and burn the effected leaves.
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                                Melon worm

  No Detailed description of the Melon worm.
  Control the Melon worm with Malathion, Sevin, or Thiodan
insecticides. Organically, Bacillus thuringiensis will rid the
problem.
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                           Mexican bean beetles

  The Mexican bean beetle is an extremely destructive pest. They
start out as fuzzy yellow larvae, commonly seen on beans and
peas. The adult beetle is one third inch or less in length and
yellow to copper in color with 16 black spots on the back. At
first glance this appears to be just another friendly little lady
bug, but don't be fooled. The beetle rapidly attacks many
varieties of bean and pea plants, turning the plant into nothing
but a skeleton.
  Control this pest with Diazinon, Malathion, Sevin, or Thiodan
insecticides. To control organically, rotenone does a good job.
Keep garden debris to a minimum and hand pick any larvae or
beetles found. Interplanting marigolds will help to repel them
also.
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                                 Nematodes

  Nematodes are tiny, almost invisible, worms which feed on and
enter a plants root system, causing knots to form on the roots.
This generally causes stunted plant growth and plants often die.
  Crop rotation is the best way to control this problem without
the need for pesticides. Use plenty of organic fertilizers and
mulches to encourage the growth of beneficial bacteria, protozoa,
and fungi. The fungi basically attack and feed on the nematodes.
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                               Onion maggots

  Onion maggots are one third to one fourth inch long white
maggots. The greatest threat of damage comes during a very wet
spring. The adult fly lays its eggs near or on the stem of the
onion. The maggots often attack the leaves or neck of the stem
first, which can lead to the plant appearing yellow and limp. The
maggots may completely eat off the onion stem and enter the bulb
where the bulb becomes an infested, rotting mess.
  Onion sets are more susceptible than larger onions to the
maggot. Try setting out onions as early as possible to give the
onions a chance to out grow the problem before it happens. Also,
you may try covering the soil with a layer of sand or wood ash.
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                               Parsley worms

  The Parsley worm or carrot worm is the larva of the black
swallow tail butterfly. The caterpillar is about two inches long
and green in color with black bands, having yellow spots. When
bothered, they display two orange horns from its head. In
addition to parsley and carrots it can also attack celery and
dill.
  Control this pest organically by dusting with rotenone or hand
picking.
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                              Pepper maggots

  No good description of Pepper maggots is available; however as
with all maggot problems try planting as early as possible to
avoid any egg-laying flies.
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                                Pickleworm

  Young Pickleworms are light yellow with black spots. The mature
caterpillar is copper or green in color and approximately three
fourths of an inch long. They feed on the foliage and eat their
way into the blossoms and fruit of the cucumber family of
vegetables.
  The insecticides Malathion, Sevin, or Thiodan are good cures.
Organically, dusting with Bacillus thuringiensis, keeping a clean
garden, and deep tilling in the fall will help to get rid of any
of the worms attempting to overwinter.
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                            Potato tuber worms

  Details not available on Potato tuber worms.
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                             Rhubarb curculio

  Details on the description of Rhubarb curculios is not
available; however curculios are generally small beetles with
curved snouts and biting parts on the tips.
  Control curculios organically by hand picking.
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                                Seed maggot

  Seed maggots are yellowish white maggots with pointed heads.
They attack the germinating seed of corn, cucumbers, beans, peas,
and melons. Sometimes the maggot will also effect cabbage, beets,
onions, radishes, sweet potatoes, and turnips as young plants.
  The biggest problems happen when the weather has been cool and
wet, so delaying planting until the soil is warm should speed up
germination reducing the opportunity for the maggot to damage
seed.
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                                   Slugs

  Slugs are gray to brown in color and some have spots. There are
good slugs and there are bad slugs. Generally the good slugs live
below the soil line and are carnivorous, feeding on wireworms,
grubs, and other slugs. The good guys can be identified by a
small shell on the end of their tail. The bad slugs on the other
hand are above the ground creatures, preferring a vegetable
diet. They feed on a variety of plants and leave a slimy little
trail.
  The traditional method is to purchase commercial slug baits,
but there are several successful organic methods as well. Try
pouring a small amount of beer in a shallow container, such as a
saucer. The slug is attracted to the beer and drowns. Also, try
cutting an orange in half and hulling it out. Lay this in the
garden with a small stick underneath the orange to give the slug
an entrance place under this cool shaded slug home. Check now and
then to see if anyone has checked in and evict him...permanently.
If you can't stand to crush the guy, then just sprinkle some salt
on him. Salt and slugs don't mix. One last thing, mulch heavily
with oak leaves. They don't like that either.
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                                  Snails

  Snails are similar to slugs, but the main distinguishing
feature is a large shell that the can draw up into if threatened.
Snails come in a variety of colors including yellow, brown, gray,
and black. They range in size from one fourth inch to a whopping
ten inches long. The brown garden snail is one of the most
destructive snails, feeding on young plants.
  Collecting snails in a bucket of salt water will exterminate
the pest, along with all of the methods used for trapping slugs
in the article above.
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                               Spider mites

  Spider mites or Red Spider Mites are tiny, almost microscopic
mites that appear as tiny red dots on the underside of leaves.
The mite is particularly a problem in hot, dry weather. Leaves
will turn yellow before turning brown and dropping off. Close
inspection with a magnifying glass will reveal a fine webbing.
They can attack any number of plants.
  Spider mites can be exterminated with Diazinon or Malathion
insecticides. One organic method is to simply hose the webs off
of the infected leaves and also, to spray the leaves with a
mixture of flour and buttermilk.
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                                Squash bugs

  Squash bugs are large, hard-shelled, flat-backed insects
growing three fourths and up to one inch in length. They are
grayish brown to brownish black in color. The adult bug hides out
near the base of the plant and gives off an unpleasant odor when
crushed. The legged nymph of this bug hatches out later in the
season and has a green or brown body and red head. They prefer
crawling around on the fruit and vines of the plant where they
feed, causing the plant to wilt and die.
  Control the squash bug with Sevin insecticide. Organic controls
include hand picking the insect, interplanting marigolds to repel
it, rotating crops, and keeping a clean, weed free garden.
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                            Squash vine borers

  Squash vine borers are plump looking caterpillars, white in
color with a brown head and short legs. They grow to about one
inch in length. They tunnel their way into the stem and stalks of
squash and cucumbers.
  Organically control these borers by dusting the young plants
with rotenone. If you see a vine wilting, slit open the stalk and
remove the borer.
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                           Sweet potato beetles

  Details not found on Sweet potato beetles.
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                           Sweet potato weevils

  Details not found on Sweet potato weevils.
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                                  Thrips

  Thrips are tiny insects, almost invisible, with two pairs of
hairy fringed wings. They are black, brown, or reddish in color.
The insect causes damage by rasping away at plant leaves, fruit,
or flowers; and sucking the sap which escapes. The curled leaves
will take on a silvery appearance. To determine if you have these
tiny insects, place a white piece of material under the suspected
plant and tap the foliage. The thrips will appear as black spots
on the white background.
  Control thrips by using Diazinon or Malathion insecticides.
Organically, rotenone is very effective. As usual, keeping a
weed-free garden is very important.
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                             Tomato hornworms

  This monster of a caterpillar, green in color with eight
diagonal white stripes, can grow up to four inches in length.
They have a prominent black horn on the rear end. The similar
looking Tobacco hornworm has seven diagonal stripes and a red
horn on the rear. These caterpillars are the larvae of the
humming-bird moth with a wing span of four to five inches. They
feed on the leaves and fruit of plants.
  Control hornworms with Sevin or Thiodan insecticides.
Organically speaking, Bacillus Thuringiensis will eradicate the
pest. Hand picking is very easy, seeing how this plump little guy
is simple to grab on to. Also, be kind to the wasps in the garden
for some species are natural predators of the hornworm, laying
their eggs on the worm's back. If you see a hornworm with these
eggs on its back, consider leaving it be to hatch out a new crop
of wasps.
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                                Whiteflies

  Whiteflies are tiny insects, appearing as small white moths.
They have four pair of rounded wings and congregate on the
underside of leaves. When disturbed they scatter in a cloud of
white. They damage the plants by piercing leaves and sucking the
sap out. Effected leaves will look speckled yellow or silvery.
  Malathion or Thiodan insecticides will help to control them.
Thrips are difficult to control, but organically the small wasp
"Encarsia formosa" is a natural predator.
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                                 Wireworms

  Wireworms are the larvae of the click beetle. The worm is light
yellowish-brown to dark brown in color with three pairs of legs
and a hard-shelled segmented body. They attack the stems and root
systems of plants, sometimes tunneling their way through the stem
to
above ground level. Most of its destruction however takes place
below the soil level. The tubers of potato plants and turnips are
greatly affected, where wireworms will riddle the tubers with
their tunnels.
  Since the wireworm takes three to four years to mature into a
click beetle you may have to deal with the problem for quite a
while. The organic approach is to be sure to till the ground very
deep, as to destroy as many worms and beetles as possible. Also,
a trap can be set by cutting a potato half in two and placing it
just under the soil. Every couple of days check to see if anyone
is at home and if so destroy the worm.