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Newsgroups: rec.sport.golf,rec.answers,news.answers Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!princeton!deadzone!marcelo From: marcelo@deadzone (Marcelo Gallardo) Subject: rec.sport.golf Golf FAQ Message-ID: <1993Nov30.034038.4756@Princeton.EDU> Followup-To: rec.sport.golf Summary: This posting contains FAQs and answers regarding golf Originator: news@nimaster Keywords: GOLF FAQ Sender: news@Princeton.EDU (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: deadzone.princeton.edu Reply-To: marcelo@deadzone.Princeton.EDU Organization: DeadZone * A/UX 3.0 SVR2 * 609-275-1833 X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4 Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1993 03:40:38 GMT Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Expires: Wed, 29 Dec 1993 05:00:00 GMT Lines: 1195 Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.sport.golf:13638 rec.answers:3144 news.answers:15188 Archive-name: golf-faq Last Modified: Mon Nov 29 10:14:02 EST 1993 This is the Frequently Asked Question (FAQ) list for GOLF FAQ for GOLF ============ This FAQ list is intended to cut down on the number of "often asked questions" that make the rounds here on rec.sport.golf and GOLF-L. This FAQ list will be posted at least once a month. If you don't understand something in the FAQ List, contact me and I'll attempt to help or else point you to someone who can. In any case, let me know how I can make the list more clear. Send your additions/modifications to: Marcelo Gallardo marcelo@deadzone.Princeton.EDU Contents and Changes ==================== Changes are noted by an * - Additions are noted by a + Contents and Changes List of Contributors + Electronic Newsgroups and Mailing Lists * List of Golf Archives Types of Golf Balls Types of Irons Types of Woods Types of Shafts Types of Grips Scoring/Handicapping Systems * What causes / How do I cure a slice/hook * What clubs should I buy How do I build my own clubs USGA Course Rating Information Handicap Information Etiquette Tips Hitting in Regulation USGA Information List of Contributors to the GOLF FAQ List ========================================= I would like to thank all the various people who have contributed to the GOLF FAQ List (both those that submitted questions as well as those who submitted answers). If I've left you out, PLEASE E-mail me! In no particular order: Dave Tutelman Mark Koenig Paul Bardak Brian Zimmerman Paul Jones Lothar Bittner Steve Blessing James F. Tims Chester Lee Barber Jonathan Reeve York Davis Jack Davis Paul Stroud Hal Hansen Steve Blessing John Campbell Randy Schrickel Peter Rigsbee Mark Dowdy Jeff Lovelace Dana Dawson Dave Stokes Alan Greenspan Martin Olivera Electronic Newsgroups and Mailing Lists ======================================= Newsgroups ---------- rec.sport.golf is a newsgroup which discusses ANY subject as it pertains to golf. For those people interested in the rules of golf, handicapping procedures, golf equipment, swing techniques, or you just want some information on golf courses across the globe this is the place you want to be. Mailing Lists ------------- GOLF-L@UBVM.CC.BUFFALO.EDU is a mailing list which has a gateway to the rec.sport.golf newsgroup. This means that messages sent to the mailing list will show up in rec.sport.golf, and messages posted to rec.sport.golf will pass through the mailing list. So for those of you that can't access USENET, you can still have access to all of the information posted to rec.sport.golf. In order to be placed on the mailing list, you will have to send a mail message to LISTSERV@UBVM.CC.BUFFALO.EDU. The body of the message should contain the following command... SUBSCRIBE GOLF-L Greg Norman (use your name instead of Greg Norman) You should receive a message within a few hours telling you that you have been accepted. For help of more information regarding the Mailing List, send a message to LISTSERV@UBVM.CC.BUFFALO.EDU with the word HELP as the body. List of Golf Archives ===================== An archive consisting of information related to golf is being kept on deadzone.Princeton.EDU and dunkin.Princeton.EDU. The "articles" deal with things ranging from handicapping systems and programs, to club making and design, and even a few GIFs of various courses. The files in this archive are available by either anonymous FTP on dunkin.Princeton.EDU or via a mail server on deadzone.Princeton.EDU. If there is any information you would like to see placed in the archives, either drop them off via Anonymous FTP on dunkin.Princeton.EDU, or send them via mail to marcelo@deadzone.Princeton.EDU. Mail Server ----------- There lives a mail server that will get files from the archive and mail them to you. If you send mail to "listproc@deadzone.Princeton.EDU", with the commands in the body of the message, you should receive the files via mail within a few days (usually the same day). So for example if you wanted the clubdesn.0 article, you would send mail to "listproc@deadzone.Princeton.EDU" with a line in the body which looks like this... get golf clubdesn.0 You can retrieve several files at the same time by adding the commands on separate lines like so... get golf clubdesn.0 get golf clubdesn.1 get golf clubdesn.2 get golf clubdesn.3 If you need any more help, you can send a message to the mail server (listproc@deadzone.Princeton.EDU) with the message of "help" (without the quotes), or send mail to marcelo@deadzone.Princeton.EDU. Anonymous FTP ------------- ** Please note that anonymous FTP has moved from deadzone.Princeton.EDU to dunkin.Princeton.EDU (128.112.64.39). ** The golf archive is also accessible via anonymous FTP on dunkin.Princeton.EDU (128.112.64.39). For those of you unfamiliar with anonymous ftp, here is an anonymous ftp session to help guide you. I recommend looking through the news.answers and news.announce.newusers news groups for further information. ************* % ftp dunkin.Princeton.EDU Connected to dunkin.Princeton.EDU. 220 dunkin.Princeton.EDU FTP server (Version wu-2.1b(2) Tue Jul 20 14:35:05 EDT 1993) ready. Name (dunkin.Princeton.EDU:marcelo): anonymous 331 Guest login ok, send your complete e-mail address as password. Password: marcelo@Princeton.EDU <-- (you will not see this on the screen) 230 Guest login ok, access restrictions apply. ftp> cd pub/golf <-- (top directory for GOLF archive) 250 CWD command successful. ftp> dir <-- (gets directory listing) 200 PORT command successful. 150 Opening ASCII mode data connection for /bin/ls. total 496 drwxr-xr-x 6 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 16:02 . drwxr-xr-x 4 bin bin 512 Jun 10 02:54 .. drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 23:27 clubmaking drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 512 Aug 4 23:28 gifs -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 33951 Sep 29 03:26 golf.faq drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 512 Sep 16 23:34 handicap drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 512 Sep 16 23:42 misc -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 202574 Aug 4 16:04 pkz204g.exe 226 Transfer complete. 507 bytes received in 0.57 seconds (0.87 Kbytes/s) ftp> cd clubmaking 250 CWD command successful. ftp> dir 200 PORT command successful. 150 Opening ASCII mode data connection for /bin/ls. total 176 drwxr-xr-x 2 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 23:27 . drwxr-xr-x 6 1000 bin 1024 Aug 4 16:02 .. -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1021 Jul 16 01:37 cast.forged.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 3355 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.0.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5912 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.1.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 11287 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.2.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 8177 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.3.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5579 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.4.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 13144 Jun 10 03:07 clubdesn.5.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1956 Jun 10 03:07 clubmake.start.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5727 Jun 10 03:07 clubmake.tips.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 2344 Jun 10 03:07 clubmake.tips.addendum.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1224 Jun 10 03:07 golf.assoc.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 5021 Jun 10 03:07 golf.comp.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 781 Jun 10 03:07 golf.paint.tip.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 898 Jun 10 03:07 grip.tips.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1140 Jun 10 03:07 grphite.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 3764 Jul 16 01:38 ladies.clubs.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 1399 Jun 10 03:07 more.grip.tips.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 608 Jun 10 03:07 swgwght.cht.Z -rw-r--r-- 1 1000 bin 6339 Jun 10 03:13 swingwht.tar.Z 226 Transfer complete. 1446 bytes received in 0.68 seconds (2.1 Kbytes/s) ftp> bin <-- (set FTP into binary transfer mode) 200 Type set to I. ftp> get clubdesn.0.Z <-- (requests clubdesn.0.Z to be sent to you) 200 PORT command successful. 150 Opening BINARY mode data connection for clubdesn.0.Z (3355 bytes). 226 Transfer complete. local: clubdesn.0.Z remote: clubdesn.0.Z 3355 bytes received in 0.7 seconds (4.7 Kbytes/s) ftp> quit <-- (self explanatory) 221 Goodbye. ************* For more information on how to use anonymous FTP, please send mail to marcelo@deadzone.princeton.EDU. Types of Golf Balls =================== Balata vs Surlyn ---------------- Balata and Surlyn are ball-covering materials. But there are typically other differences between balata and surlyn balls besides the cover. Balata ------ A balata covered ball is typically a three-piece ball: a core wound with rubber and covered with balata. There has been a lot of discussion as to what "balata" is. Let's just say that balata is a soft substance which leads to cuts and nicks. This "softness" is said to offer "better playability" which is to say that the golfer can "shape" his/her shot (fade/draw), and get more "action" (backspin) on the greens. Surlyn ------ A surlyn covered ball is typically a two-piece ball: a solid core with the surlyn cover. Surlyn is a man made "uncuttable" substance which is designed to eliminate the cuts and nicks. The drawbacks of the harder ball are that it is more difficult to "shape" his/her shot (fade/draw), and get "action" (backspin) on the greens. Quick Comparison ---------------- ** Balata ** ** Surlyn ** 1) Softer cover 1) Harder cover * Better spin * Not as much spin * scuffs and cuts easily * resists scuffs and cuts 2) "Works" the ball better 2) More distance because of spin (Draw, fade, backspin) 3) Usually three-piece ball 3) Usually two-piece ball (Liquid-filled core, (Solid core and cover) wound rubber, and cover) 4) Usually more expensive: 4) Usually less expensive: * Higher first cost * Lower first cost * Shorter life * Longer life Compression ----------- Compression of a golf ball is designed to give more "feel" with lower compression, and more distance with higher compression. Typical compression ratings are between 80 and 100, with most players using a 90 compression ball as a compromise. While neither the distance issue or "feel" issue has ever been proven, above average golfers tend to agree that hitting a 100 compression ball feels like "hitting a rock". Notes ----- Now what you really want to know: Determining the type of ball you should use, as well as the compression is purely preference. Some people find that a surlyn covered ball is quite playable, while others feel they need the "action" a balata ball gives. I generally play whatever ball I find while searching for the ball I lost, but then again I'm not on the PGA tour. Types of Irons ============== Investment Cast --------------- A "positive" or master model of the clubhead is made, usually made of aluminum, which contains all engraved markings, scoring lines, and even the hosel hole. Wax is injected into the master, which yields a positive "wax" clubhead. The clubhead is then dipped into ceramic several times to produce the negative mold. The wax is then melted, and stainless steel poured into the ceramic mold. When the ceramic casting is removed, you have the clubhead ready to be painted. Forged ------ Forging a club is very similar to what the village blacksmith used to do. Dies are "sunk" or cut, by milling the desired impression, and forging is accomplished with a "drop hammer". The manufacturer is then presented with a raw forging, which is a close approximation of the clubhead desired. The clubhead must then be finished by milling, grinding and drilling. Muscleback ---------- A Muscleback iron, also known as a "blade", has generally been associated as a "forged" iron. While the manufacturing process isn't really important, the design of the clubhead is. The muscleback iron distributes the weight evenly throughout the entire head, producing a small "sweet spot" in the center of the head. This is to say that a shot hit in the center of the face will produce a longer, straighter flight trajectory. Shots which aren't hit pure (off-center) will produce a shorter, unpredictable flight trajectory. Cavity Back ----------- A cavity back iron, also known as perimeter weighted, has generally been associated as an investment cast iron. Again while the manufacturing process isn't really important, the design of the clubhead is. The cavity back iron distributes the weight around the perimeter of the head, producing a large "sweet spot". This makes the off-center shots more forgiving, flying longer and straighter, than an off-center shot with a muscleback iron. Quick Comparison ---------------- ** Investment cast ** ** Forged ** Usually a Cavity back Usually a Blade or Muscleback Peripheral weighting Central weighting More forgiving Better "feel" Stainless steel Carbon steel & chrome Notes ----- Now what you really want to know: When investment cast heads were first introduced, several companies claimed that the "feel" of the head was lost. These same companies also claimed it was more difficult to "work" the ball with the cast heads. Keep in mind that most golfers tend to believe that a muscleback iron (usually forged) produces more "feel" than the cavity back models (usually investment casted). They also say that it is easier to "shape" the shot using the blades over the perimeter weighted clubs. Before making a decision, you should try a few muscleback and cavity back irons and see for yourself. For more information please refer to Dave Tutelman's "Designing golf clubs" articles. Types of Woods ============== Wood ---- There are basically two types of wood used, persimmon and maple. * Solid heads are usually persimmon. * Laminated ("plywood") heads are usually maple. Persimmon heads are made by using a sophisticated turning machine. The process is much like making a duplicate key for a lock. The second, and most commonly used, wood is laminated maple. Generally, 1/16-inch veneers of maple are laminated together much like a sheet of plywood. Then the veneers are heated and pressurized, and finally turned like the persimmon heads. While many golfers indicate that they have a more solid feel at impact with persimmon heads, studies show no support of this. Other golfers prefer the laminated maple, reasoning that they last longer. Presently it costs roughly three times as much to use persimmon as it does laminated maple. Metal ----- Investment cast metal heads have gained popularity, mainly because of the added control of peripheral weighting (which was not a true design goal, but a product of the casting process to achieve proper weight). The stainless steel heads are cast hollow to restrict excessive weight, and usually filled with polyurethane to muffle impact noise. Metal "wood" heads have also been noted as adding distance to center and off-center shots. Graphite -------- The same material that is used for shafts is also used to make graphite heads. There are two subtle variances in manufacturing techniques. In one case, the graphite prepreg is mixed with an ABS plastic, and is injection molded into a head. In the second version the prepreg is given an epoxy base and the mixture is compression molded. Graphite heads are manufactured with the same weight as the wood and metal heads, but are generally much larger than conventional heads. This increases the size of the "Sweet spot". No tests yet have proven graphite heads to be more forgiving or longer than other materials. Oversized --------- The general consensus is that "oversized" heads, generally made of stainless steel or graphite, create a larger "sweet spot". This produces a longer and straighter flight trajectory on off-center hits. When using stainless steel, the walls of the head must be made thinner to keep the overall weight "normal" (191-205 grams for a 1 wood). This has caused some metal "wood" faces to "crush" or dent. For this reason, some manufacturers are bringing "Mid-sized" metal woods to market, which allows the "sweet spot" to stay large, yet keeps the walls of the head thick to prevent denting. Metal with Composite Face ------------------------- In conjunction with "oversized" clubheads, manufacturers are starting to use "face inserts" (normally plastic, graphite or lightweight metals). This allows them to produced the larger sized heads without worrying about the face crushing or denting. This also allows them to keep the overall weight of the head down. Face inserts, in metal "woods", is a fairly new design, and tests regarding their playability and forgiveness have not been published. Notes ----- Now what you really want to know: The type of "wood" you should use can only be determined by what "feels right". While metal and graphite heads can offer forgiveness on off-center shots, some argue that you lose the feel you receive from true "wood" heads. Like the irons, you should try several before buying. Types of Shafts =============== I found this to be the most difficult FAQ to answer. The shaft is the most complex piece of a golf club, and probably the most important. With varying degrees of flex, flex locations, weight, length, materials, torque, etc., an article devoted entirely to the shaft is needed, but not available. I'll do my best to answer some of the questions regarding them. Steel ----- Steel shafts are generally made from either carbon steel or stainless steel. For the most part, the manufacturing process between the two are similar. A steel strip is rolled into a tube, and is drawn over a mandrel until the diameter and wall thickness are reduced to their exact specifications. At this point the step pattern is formed on the shaft. Then the walls are made thinner at the grip and thicker at the tip to give the shaft its flex characteristics. Then it is hardened, tempered, straightened and stress relieved. The final step is to polish and chrome plate the shaft. One of the best features of the steel shaft is the ability to have the same "feel" throughout the entire set. This means that the stiffness in the 3 iron will will be the same as the 9 iron. Other features are its durability and price. Graphite -------- Graphite shafts are made from a graphite tape. The tape, which has an epoxy binder, is wrapped around a steel mandrel. The wrapped shaft is then temperature cured and the mandrel removed. The raw shaft is then sanded and cut to proper length, at which point it receives a clear or colored paint coating. Its most talked about feature is its light weight. It also helps dampen the vibration caused by clubhead impact with the ground. A few of the drawbacks are the "feel" of the shaft (some people complain that a stiff graphite shaft does not feel like a stiff steel shaft), the stiffness is not consistent throughout a set, and its price tag. Titanium -------- I have very little information regarding the titanium shaft and its manufacturing process. Among some of its features are its weight (lighter than steel), and its vibration dampening. Some complaints are that the shafts are too stiff, and it carries a big price. Stiffness --------- The stiffness, flex, or deflection of a shaft defines the bending characteristics of the tube, when a load is applied to the shaft. The most common shaft flexes are designated as X (extra-stiff), S (stiff), R (regular), A (man's flexible), or L (ladies'). For people with high swing speeds, it's desirable to have a stiffer shaft to keep the club head from lagging behind. For people with slower swing speeds, the more flexible shafts offer an extra "kick" at the bottom of the downswing to help propel the ball. Kickpoints ---------- The kickpoint, bendpoint, or flexpoint defines where the shaft will bend. It affects the trajectory of the shot; the higher the kickpoint, the lower the trajectory. The three points: High, Mid, and Low offer different flight trajectories: low, mid, and high respectively. For someone that generally hits the ball with a high shot trajectory, a High kickpoint is desirable in a shaft. For someone with a low shot trajectory, a Low kickpoint helps get the ball airborne and on a higher flight path. Torque ------ Generally torque is a rating applied to a graphite shaft. It specifies the "twisting" characteristics of the shaft. The normal torque rating of a steel shaft is about 2.5 degrees. The general range of torque ratings found on graphite shafts are from 3.5 to 5.5 degrees, although it is possible to get shafts with lower or higher ratings. The higher the torque rating, the more the shaft twists for a given twisting force. The torque rating also seems to be tied to the stiffness of a shaft. The lower the torque rating, the stiffer the shaft. Notes ----- Now what you really want to know: The type of shaft a person should use is one of the most often asked questions. It is also one of the most unanswered questions. Choosing the material, flex, and kickpoint of a shaft will depend entirely on what "feels" right when you swing the club. Someone with a high swing speed may choose a steel shaft with a flex rating of X and a low kickpoint, while someone with the same swing speed may choose a graphite shaft with a flex rating of R and a high kickpoint. The general consensus is see your local Pro and see what he/she recommends. Make your decision from there. For more information please refer to Dave Tutelman's "Designing golf clubs" articles. Types of Grips ============== Rubber ------ Rubber grips are made by adding granulated cork, as well as other materials in the liquid rubber. The "cork" serves to displace the rubber, and is the reason many grips are called "composition" grips. It also makes the overall weight of the grip lighter. The rubber/cork blend is checked to assure the proper viscosity, and is then molded in a high pressure molding machine. After molding, the grips are sanded and painted. Some of the features of rubber grips are: easy installation, "reminder ribs" for hand placement, and they are less expensive. Leather ------- Most of the "stars" over forty use leather, while the younger players use various rubber molded grips. The reason has very little to do with the quality or playability of the grip, but simply a difference in what each generation has been accustomed to. One of the features of leather grips (generally made of cowhide or calfskin) is that they have a nice soft, pliable, tacky feel. A few of the drawbacks are its difficulty to install, and its price. Cord/Half-Cord -------------- Most of the more popular rubber models come in an optional "cord" grip, in which strands of fabric thread are embedded in the rubber grip. This makes for a better non-slip contact with hand or glove, especially when wet with rain or sweat. However, it does wear out gloves faster than non-cord grips. (Hands, too. :-) Many of the "cord" models also come as "half-cord", in which the top of the grip (where your thumbs are) are smooth rubber and the bottom (where your fingers wrap around the club) are cord. Quick Comparison ---------------- ** Rubber Grips ** ** Leather Grips ** Slip-on design Usually wrapped spiral design Easy to install Harder to install Less expensive More expensive Rough when corded Natural soft, tacky feel Oversized/Undersized -------------------- Grips come in a standard size, but can be padded to a larger diameter with tape on the shaft under the grip. It is also possible to get larger and smaller diameter grips. A few of the pros and cons: ** Oversized ** ** Undersized ** For larger hands For smaller hands (most women) Minimize arthritis pain Decreases hand action, Increases hand action, promoting a slice promoting a hook Notes ----- Now what you really want to know: The type of grips a person uses will be based on "feel". Some people like the natural soft feel of the leather grips, while others refuse to use anything but corded composite grips. Try going to a local golf shop and seeing which grips "feel" right - and you can afford. Scoring/Handicapping Systems ============================ All of the following information was taken from articles posted to rec.sport.golf with permission from the authors. ** Handicapping Systems ** Quick Reference Allowance (QRA) ------------------------------- The USGA has developed a simple, but relatively effective estimator of a player's ability called "QRA" for "Quick Reference Allowance." QRA is not a substitute for the USGA Handicap System, but can produce fairly equitable results and is the best system for handicapping the otherwise "un-handicapped." To create a player's QRA, the tournament committee simply asks each un-handicapped player to submit his three best scores made on a regulation course (with par of 68 or more) in the last 12 months. Combine these scores with any previous scores that the player has made in a tournament in the past two years. The player's QRA is the second best score minus 70 for men or 73 for women. Modified Peoria System ---------------------- The next best alternative, according to USGA studies, is to use a hole score selection system, often called the "Peoria system." Under this system, a player learns his handicap after the round is completed. By this method, the committee secretly selects a par-3 hole, a par-5 hole and four par-4 holes from an 18-hole course. The par-4s should be representative in length and difficulty with two chosen from the front nine and two from the back nine. A modified Peoria handicap is calculated by adding the player's strokes over par on the six selected holes, and multiplying by 2.8. This will equal the player's allowance to be deducted from his gross score. The maximum hole score for allowance purposes is three over par on par-3s and 4s and four over par on par-5s. Callaway System --------------- The Callaway System is a so-called "one-round" system or "worst-holes" system that compresses the spread of gross scores when converted to net scores. It is not a reliable handicap system and produces a result such that the player with the lowest gross score almost always becomes the low net score winner. Most players with higher gross scores are given net scores within a few strokes of the winner so that most players can feel competitive. By the Callaway System, a player's allowance is determined after each round by deducting from his gross score for 18 holes the scores of the worst individual holes during the first 16 holes. The table below shows the number of "worst hole" scores he may deduct and the adjustment to be made, based on his gross score. Scheid System ------------- The Scheid System is an alternative "worst-score" system, that has two advantages over the Callaway method: (1) It allows for a wider range of scores (up to 151) (2) It gives players who normally cannot compete for low gross score an opportunity to win. Notes ----- Please refer to the article on "Handicap Systems" for more information and the tables. ** Scoring Systems ** Stroke Play ----------- (also called Medal Play) Low gross -- no adjustment for handicap Low net -- subtract your handicap, low score wins Match Play ---------- Two players play head to head. Total strokes are not important. The winner is based on who wins the most holes. The match is over when one player is ahead by more holes than the number of holes remaining. Stableford ---------- Points are allocated based on the net score of each hole. Handicaps are allocated based on the index of each hole. You deduct the allocated handicap per hole from the score on the hole and the points are allocated against the equivalent net score for the hole. The exact points which are allocated seem to vary. Best-Ball --------- This refers to a team event which may comprise 2, 3 or 4 players. Each player will have his/her stroke allowance and the lowest net score would be recorded at each hole. The total for the complete round would be the teams best-ball score. Scramble -------- Normally a team of 4. Each player tees off at each hole and then the team selects the ball which is in the best position and ALL play from that spot. This repeats for all shots until the hole is finished. Foursomes --------- This is where 2 players play one ball hitting alternative shots. One player will tee off at all the odd numbered holes and the other at the even numbered holes, no matter who was the last player to play on the previous hole. Par --- Similar to stableford as far as the allocated shots are concerned but you either win, halve or lose the hole (+ 0 -). Its a little tougher, as anything worse than a net par is a loss. At the end you add up your wins against your losses. Chapman ------- (2 man teams) Each player hits a tee shot. They then each play a second shot using their partner's ball. At this point, they select the best ball and the player who did not hit it plays, alternating shots until the ball is holed (only the first two shots are hit by both players). Pinehurst --------- (2 man teams) Pinehurst is similar to the Chapman format, except that each player hits a drive, and the best drive is then chosen and players alternate in from there.Unlike the Chapman, players do not BOTH hit second shots from their partners drives. Hero-Bum -------- (4 man teams) The best and worst scores are counted (net or gross). Notes ----- Please refer to the article on "Scoring Systems" for the full text. What causes / How do I cure a slice/hook ======================================== What causes it -------------- For the most part, a hook or a slice is caused by the clubface being opened or closed upon contact. Most people also tend to agree that an inside-to-out swing plane causes a hook, and an outside-to-in swing plane causes a slice. o = ball x = clubhead path x x o x o x x x o x x x HOOK STRAIGHT SLICE ---- -------- ----- How do I cure it ---------------- Generally to fix a hook or a slice, you will want to change the path which your clubhead follows before striking the ball. If you are having a problem with a hook/slice, try to ensure that your clubhead has a straighter swing path. If after trying to change your swing path, you see no improvements, go see your local Golf Professional. What clubs should I buy ======================= Well, you could start by sitting down and reading through this document. By honestly judging your abilities, you may be able to decide if you need peripherally weighted or muscleback clubs. The next logical step is deciding on how much money you want to or are willing to spend for new clubs. Keep this number in mind when your shopping for new clubs, if you don't you could wind up spending much more than you planned on. Once you have an idea of what type of clubs you want and how much you plan on spending, go down to your local golf shop or club and try to hit a few clubs. If your allowed, try to play a round or two with demo sets. By actually using the clubs in a "golf round" situation, you may be able to decide if the clubs look, feel, and play the way you would like them to. If you feel uncomfortable with the clubs don't buy them - just because your golfing buddy swears by XYZ, doesn't mean you should too. If after doing the above, you still can't decide for yourself, go see a local professional or clubmaker and ask for some help. Either should be more than willing to help you make a well informed decision. How do I build my own clubs =========================== Start off by ordering some catalogs from some of the component vendors (an annotated list is available in the archives). While you are waiting for the catalogs to arrive, get some of the articles regarding club design and assembly which are available in the archives. Let us know how your clubs turn out! USGA Course Rating Information ============================== The following information is a brief explanation. For more information please refer to the "Slope Information" article by Randy Schrickel. YARDAGE Rating -------------- "Yardage Rating" is the evaluation of the playing difficulty based on yardage only. It is the score a scratch player on his game is expected to make when playing a course of average difficulty. USGA COURSE Rating ------------------ "Course Rating" is the evaluation of the playing difficulty of a course for scratch players. Course Rating is expressed in strokes and decimal fractions of a stroke, and is based on yardage and other obstacles to the extent that they affect the scoring ability of a scratch player. Courses are rated by authorized golf associations, not by individual clubs. USGA SLOPE Rating ----------------- "Slope Rating" reflects the relative playing difficulty of a course for players with handicaps above scratch, whereas Course Rating is based solely on difficulty for the scratch player. The lowest Slope Rating is 55 and the highest is 155. The average Slope Rating for men and women is 113. Handicap Information ==================== Getting an "Official" Handicap ------------------------------ There are a few ways of getting an "official" handicap. The easiest way is to become a member of a local course. Although this can sometimes be expensive ($100 and up), it does entitle you to a few extra benefits - such as reduced green fees, preferred starting times, as well as an chance to play in club sponsored tournaments and meet new people. Another way to get an "official" handicap is to join a local golf "association". For a small fee (+/- $40) they will establish a handicap for you. Depending on the association, you may also get reduced fees at certain clubs, as well as being able to play in association sponsored tournaments and meet new people. Calculating a Handicap Index ---------------------------- It is possible to calculate your own handicap index, although it may not be accepted for use in tournaments. None the less you can calculate your index and use it to keep track of your progress, and/or use it when playing with other people. The USGA Handicap Index is usually based on the best 10 of your last 20 valid 18-hole rounds, but can be computed from fewer rounds. For each round, you will need to know both the USGA Course Rating and Slope. The usual first step is to compute your "Adjusted Gross Score" according to the "Equitable Stroke Control" (ESC) procedures. To calculate the Adjusted Gross Score, you first calculate the Course Handicap based on the slope of the course you are playing using your index. This will determine the maximum score for each hole (ESC). If you haven't yet established a handicap index, then you are to start with the base index which is 36.4 for men and 40.4 for women. From your Adjusted Gross Score you compute the "Stroke Differential" for that round according to the following formula: (AGS - Rating) x 113 Differential = ------------------------ Slope You should *ROUND* the Differential to the closest tenth (one place after the decimal point). Ideally, you'll have your last 20 Differentials, of which you take the lowest 10, average them, multiply the result by 0.96 (96%), and *DROP* (not round) any digits after the tenths digit. Equitable Stroke Control ------------------------ For handicap index purposes *ONLY*, there are limits to the maximum number of strokes you are allowed to take on any given hole. If you take more than that, the score you use to compute the Stroke Differential for that round must be adjusted downward by the number of strokes you exceeded the limit. These limits are based on your Course Handicap (not your Handicap Index). The ESC procedure was changed early this year to a simpler method. All you need to do is remember this simple table: Course Maximum Strokes Handicap Allowed per Hole 9 or Less 6 10 - 19 7 20 - 29 8 30 - 39 9 40 - 49 10 50 or more 11 For more information regarding calculating and using your Handicap Index, see the files regarding calculating your handicap. Etiquette Tips ============== ** Proper Etiquette ** Do not leave your ball in the hole when you make a putt/chip. Golfers are a superstitious lot and many think that their ball will not fit in the hole if there is already another one in there. If you putt/chip your ball near the hole and do not plan to putt out, mark your ball with a coin or ball-marker. Aside from being a distraction, other players will incur a 2 stroke penalty if they play a putt from the green and their ball hits yours. As much as it may interest you, do not stand directly behind another player's intended target line. This is a violation of the rules if the player is your partner and otherwise distracting because the player can usually see you out of the corner of his/her eye. When playing for the first time with someone, be conservative at first about complimenting or critiquing a shot. Follow the lead of his friends, pay attention to his comments, and wait until you have a good understanding of what is a good and bad shot for a particular player. Don't assume that everyone's standards are the same as yours. Invite faster groups to play through. ** Slow Play ** Be ready to play when it is your turn. Proceed to your ball as soon as it is safe and begin preparing for your shot. On the green, survey the contours and grain while other players are putting if you can do so without being distracting. Write your scores on the scorecard when you reach the next tee. When playing from a cart, drop one player off at his/her ball with several clubs and, if it is safe, drive the cart to the second players ball. This way, the two players sharing the cart can both prepare for their shots at the same time. If you take a cart and you are not allowed to leave the cart path, drive the cart until it is roughly even with your ball and take several clubs (maybe the one you think you will need and one above and one below) with you to your ball. If you really have no idea what club you will need, pull your bag off the cart and take the whole thing with you to your ball. ** MOST IMPORTANT ** If attending a pro tournament, never say "You're the man!" after a drive. If you do, and are publicly identified as such, your rec.sport.golf privileges will be revoked for a period of not less than 2 years per incident. Hitting in Regulation ===================== Fairways -------- Hitting a fairway is exactly that, your ball comes to rest off the tee (except par 3's) in the fairway cut of grass. Greens ------ Hitting a green in regulation means that your ball will be on the putting surface in 1 shot on a par 3, 2 shots (or less) on a par 4 and 3 shots (or less) on a par 5.Just subtracting 2 putts from the par gives you the "Regulation" number of strokes to reach the green. USGA Information ================ Joining the USGA costs $25 per year. You get a current rule book, nine issues of Golf Journal, with special issues for the US and Senior Open, as well as their catalog of golf goodies and a bag tag. The money helps support the USGA which sponsors 14 various amateur tournaments, administers the rules of golf, conducts equipment tests, does turf research and much more. Write: USGA P.O. Box 708 Far Hills, NJ 07931-0708 or call 1 (800) 345-GOLF -- Marcelo Gallardo marcelo@deadzone.princeton.edu Test and Evaluation Specialist ...!princeton!deadzone!marcelo Princeton University marcelo@Princeton.EDU Advanced Technologies and Applications (609) 258-5661