TAP YIPL/TAP_and_YIPL_Collection_CD.iso/PHREAK/BOXES/GOLDGOOD.TXT

Text File | 2000-01-15 | 17KB | 390 lines

> Anyone out there remember the Cheese Box.  It's a device that will allow
> you to dial in on one phone line and connect with, and dial out on another.
> I remember a schematic for one many years ago in Tap or Yipl.  (Cheese Box
> were commonly used by bookies)

Here are two schematics I have for diverters...  enjoy.

*-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-*
!                                                                   !
!                   The Dark Side Research Group                    !
!                                                                   !
!                         Proudly Presents:                         !
!     The DARK BOX: Multi-Purpose Network Manipulation Unit         !
!                                                                   !
!                      By: Cablecast 0perator                       !
!                                                                   !
!     (]<)0PYWR0NGDE 1987, 1990 DSR/ATR  All Rights Fucked          !
!                                                                   !
*-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-*



                        -=> Introduction <=-

The Dark Box is the newest device to enter the "colored box"  market
and is guaranteed to rerevoloutionize the art of  telecommunications
fraud. The device's inventor, Cablecast 0perator, became quite bored
with the old forms of phreaking, having to worry about codes  dying,
or being traced. The unit you are about to build was spawned by  the
need  for a more versitle, safe and interesting way to  phreak.  You
don't  need any special tones or attack dialers, just your good  old
every-day DTMF pushbutton phone.

The  box's  basic design allows you to call anywhere  on  earth  (or
elsewhere  for all we care) without fear of being billed or  traced.
But it's uses do not stop there! When hooked up properly, it can  be
used to emulate multi-line bridges, loop lines and direct in-dials.

It's  really  quite  simple. The device is plugged  into  two  phone
lines,  other  than your own, or one end into a phone line  and  the
other  into another box. When there is an incoming call, the  device
senses this and picks up the phone. Your call is then transferred to
the other line or onto the loop. When you hang up, the device senses
this, too, and it hangs up also, waiting for the next caller.

To  illustrate this, whip out your good old analog  multimeter  and
hook  it  up  to your phone line. See that nice,  juicy  voltage  on
there? Now call it on your other line. The voltage will jump and the
polarity  will  go all to hell. This version of the  Dark  Box  uses
an alternating current detector to tell if the phone is  ringing
because sensing voltage is unreliable and not entirely universal. Now
pick  up your second line. There is a momentary blackout on  it  and
then the voltage becomes constant. Now hang up the phone you  called
in  on. There will be another blackout on your other line  ans  then
the  voltage will pop back up again. On the box, hangup is  detected
by the line current passing through an optoisolator that is  holding
the relay open. When it is cut off for the split second the blackout
occurs, the relay is cut off and the phone hangs up.

NOTE: With the rapid expansion of digital ESS's, the little phone
company quirks that are essential for the device's operation might
not be available in your area. Check your line with the meter as
directed to be sure!

                    -=> Trip To Radio Snack <=-

On your next trip out to your friendly neighborhood Radio Shack, get
yourself these:

1:1 Audio Isolation Transformer
555 IC Timer
Optoisolator (Transistor Output)
(2) NPN Transistors (2N3904 or 6 Will Do Nicely)
(2) 100k 1/4w Resistors
(2) Normal Diodes
1k 1/4w Resistor
10mF Electrolytic Capacitor
Disc Capacitor (.01mF)
DPST Relay
9v Battery or Likewise AC Adapter and Timer

It'll  run you about five or six bucks, unless of course you  get  a
five finger discount...It can be mounted on a small IC perfboard, or
whatever you like depending on how small you want it.

If you can't display the schematic that goes along with this,  we'll
do it like connect the dots, it'll be fun!!

                                         +     O     P     Q
    _________         ________        ___|_____|_____|_____|___
A -|o        |- H I -|o       |- N   |   C                     |
B -|   555   |- G J -| OptoIs |- M   |   O     DPDT/DPST       |
C -| ICTimer |- F K -|________|- L   |   I       Relay         |
D -|_________|- E                    |___L_____________________|
                                         |     |     |     |
                                         -     R     S     T

This is the wiring diagram for X1, the 1:1 Audio Transformer:

     RED --(white)--------O||O--------------(red)-- YEL
                          O||O
     GRN --(black)--------O||O-----------(yellow)-- BLK

They  don't have to be paired exactly like that, just remember  that
white goes with black, and red goes with yellow.

Text  coding  of  the schematic is very simple.  If  you  have  ever
assembled one of those 1,000,000,000,000-in-1 electronics kits  from
Shack,  you can do this... I will guide you with TO and THRU.  There
is a difference:

   A ----*---- B         A ----- R1 ----- B
         |
         R1

   "A TO R1 TO B"          "A THRU R1 TO B"
  Parallel Circuit          Series Circuit

These are the abbreviations for the components:

RED, GRN, YEL, BLK  =  Phone line red and green respectively
Dx(Anode/Cathode)   =  The Diodes Where x={1,2}
Qx(Emitter/Base/Collector)  =  Transistors   x={1,2}
C1(+/-)  =  Electrolytic Capacitor  (observe polarity!)
C2       =  Disc Capacitor
R1  =  1k Resistor
Rx  =  100k Resistor  x={2,3}

Ya  dig it, mon? If this is too complex for you, try and view the
schematic through Generic Software's CADD, or try to draw your
own out from the directions below. Sometimes it helps to do this
in visual terms!

Ok, let's go to it...

<-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=->
 1: GRN thru R3 to Q1(Emitter) to GND
 2: RED thru D1(Anaode) to Q1(Base)
 3: Q1(Collector) to B
 4: +V thru R1 to B
 5: +V to M to D to H to Q2(Collector)
 6: H thru R2 to G to F thru C1(+) to GND
 7: E thru C2 to A to GND
 8: C thru D2(Anode) to Q2(Base) to L
 9: Q2(Emitter) thru COIL to GND
10: RED to I
11: J thru X1 to T
12: GRN to R
13: BLK thru X1 to Q
14: YEL to O
<-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=->

There.  That wasn't too hard now, was it? Now let's test it. A  word
to the wise: Do not substitute batteries or other power supplies  in
place  of the telephone line. If you do, then you risk  blowing  the
transformer and the optoisolator.

                     -=> Testing The Puppy <=-

Now that you have it built, double check and make sure everything is
OK  before you apply power to it. If everything you have  is  right,
there  might be some wierd, uncaught error in the file, or you  have
bad parts. Contact us or try again.

A voltmeter and a logic probe can come in handy here...

Connect  the battery, but not the phone line yet. Your relay  should
not  throw. If it does, check the 555 and the transistor  triggering
it.

If that's ok, short out the emitter and collector on Q1 momentarily.
The relay should throw for about two or three seconds then shut off.
If not, check that trigger circuit again.

Now plug in RED and GRN. If your relay trips, you might have the RED
and GRN reversed, or Q1 is not wired properly.

If  you're ok, call it on your other line. It should ring  once  and
then  pick up. If it's busy, perhaps D1 is not right. If it  doesn't
answer the phone, check Q1 to make sure all contacts are right.

Ok,  FINAL TEST! Connect YEL and BLK and call the line that RED  and
GRN are on. It should pick up and you should hear a steady dial tone
and  be  able  to dial DTMF on it, etc etc etc.  There  are  several
problems  that could arise here. 1) No dial tone means  it's  either
not  hooked up right, or the transformer is bad. 2) If you only  get
it  for about three seconds before it hangs up on you, you  are  not
getting   complete  isolation  from  the  other  line.   Check   the
transformer. 3) If the dial tone you hear is "bobbled" then you have
a major voltage spillover, isolate the second line from the rest  of
the circuit.

If everything checks out, you have just built a DARK BOX!! Now let's
have fun with it...

                -=> Applications And Operations <=-

You  already  have  the basic unit constructed. This is  sort  of  a
Pseudo-Extender or Pseudo-Diverter. Place it on any two phone  lines
(other  than your own) and be sure you know the number for the  RED-
GRN  pair.  Now when you call the line that's hooked up to  RED  and
GRN, you get the dial tone from the YEL/BLK pair, and it's just like
you  were at that person's house using THEIR phone! But you're  not,
you  could  be in Tahiti if you want! This is,  basically,  how  you
avoid billing of calls.

If you want to use this box from long distance without having to pay
for  it  yourself,  you could wire a black  box  resistor  onto  the
RED/GRN pair. It's not your phone line, what do you care?

For loop lines and cheese boxes, wire two Dark Boxes back to back on
any two phone lines.

For a multiple line bridge, you need as many boxes as you want dial-
ins. Loop all the YEL's and BLK's together respectively and plug the
RED/GRN's  into  a hunt group (You know, call 555-0000  and  if
it's  busy, you'll be transferred to 555-0001, etc etc),  this  way,
hackers  can  drop  in  and out at  will.  Didn't  Cap'n  Crunch  do
something like this?

If you want to make credit card calls instead of dialing direct,
attach the box to two payphones that are next to each other.
That way, you don't have to freeze your ass off to avoid having
your phone number put on the guy's card bill. Make sure the
payphones will accept incoming calls!

Patch YEL/BLK into an audio amplifier and into the paging system
at someplace like K-Mart. Imagine the riot you can start by
paging "INS! Stay where you are!" The xfrmer should push out
a line level audio, so interfacing to most sound applications
should be a snap.

A word about Caller ID. CI has been introduced scince the invention
of the box. The box can bypass CI to an extent, being that if the box
calls someone who caller ID's you, they'll get the second phone line
of the box, and not you. However, if the indialing line for the box
has CI and you call directly into it and someone happens to be there
to get it, you could be in serious trouble. A soloution to this would
be to use the box on a payphone that will accept incoming calls.
Scince noone gives a fuck who calls a pay phone, chances are it won't
CI'd. You could also place the box in an area that doesn't have CI,
whereas in order for CI to work, both the caller and the callee must
be in service areas.


Don't  be limited by only these suggestions! Be creative and let  us
know how you use it! Make a DID for your school's PABX, or get  your
VICModem   to   autoanswer!  There  HUNDREDS  of   uses   for   this
revoloutionary device waiting to be discovered!

                       -=> One Final Word <=-

The  staff  of Dark Side Research would like to  thank  our  friend,
Rebecca, who has encouraged us to press on in the Box's  development
even during times when it seemed hopeless.

Enjoy you new toy....

                                             Cablecast 0perator
---
Cheshire Catalyst Research Productions present...

Diverter 1992.  An alternative to the DARK BOX.

Design: Mavicon M.D., The Ear, Cheshire Catalyst and 2 that shall remain
        nameless.

Plans: Mavicon M.D.



Diverter Plans

Parts List:
Everything can be obtained at your local Radio-Shack.  As much as
i hate that store, they are convenient...

RLY1   DPDT relay
T1  1:1 audio transformer
D1  1N914 or similar diode
D2  large LED
LMP1 neon lamp
R1  10 k
R2  photocell
R3  22 k
R4  47 k
Q1  2N2222, 2N3904, 2N4401, most any other NPN switching
transistor
1 nine volt battery. The negative terminal goes to ground on the
schematic.  Positive terminal to +9 volts.

Assembly:

The best way to assemble the design is to grab one of those small
copper lined perfboards from Radio-Shack.  They are nice to work
on, and can easily be trimmed down to a minimum size once
everything is soldered in.  The process is the same as any other.
Solder all the parts in per the schematic.  The photocell must be
in a position so that the light from the neon lamp(LMP1) and the
LED(D2) both shine on it.  All the polarity must be observed.
Whichever direction you put the led in, you must remember (color
code your wires, green is positive, red is negative, yellow is
positive, black is negative) the negative side of the line must
go to its negative side.  The same goes for the transformer.  the
positive side of each line has to be connected to the correct
pair on the transformer.  On the Radio-Shack transformers, put
positive of both lines on the Red and Black pairs,  The negative
on Yellow and White.  Our prototypes have reached less that 1" x
1" in size.

NOTE: The entire thing MUST be wrapped in black tape.  IT must be light tight
or you will have a relay that turns on with the sunrise.

Theory of Operation:

The diverter works on some basic electronic principals.  Step by
step.  The phone rings.  The neon lamp is activated by the high
voltage(88 p-p) ac and flashes.  This light shines on the
photocell, decreasing its resistance.  When this happens, the
positive voltage flowing through the photocell and the 10k
resistor exceed the breakdown voltage of the base of the
transistor and switches that transistor on.  Once the transistor
is on, current flows freely from emitter to collector, energizing
the relay.  The relay's two sets of switches connect both lines
to the 1:1 audio transformer, effectively taking both lines off
the hook and coupling any audio signals from either line to the
other one.  Once this happens, current is now flowing through the
transformer,relay,led loop.  This current lights the led and that
light shines on the photocell.  This is what keeps the device
latched.  The light from the led keeps the photocell resistance
low enough to keep the transistor on.  Now, you make you call and
get on with your business.  You hang up.  Now, the local CO keeps
current flowing through the indial line for about 5 seconds, at
which point it drops down for a second or so and then goes back
up.  This is the signal the device uses to determine when you've
hung up.  When the current drops down, there is no light, and the
photocell resistance raises enough to turn the transistor off and
delatch the entire system.

Applications:

The applications are relatively obvious.  Hook it up to two
unused lines and make free calls.  Hook it up to two payphones,
and red box calls.  The only thing to watch out for is ringing.
If you hook it up to a residential line for the indial a small
(maybe 1/8) of a ring occurs when you call, tipping off people
inside the house.


 |-------------------------------------
 |                                    |         o +9V
 |  L1+      T1                       |         |
 |  o-------wwwww----------|          |         |
 |                         |          |         |
 |  L1-                    |          |         |
 |  o-------------|        |          |         o--------|
 |                |        |          |         |        |
 |                |        |          |         |        |
 |                |        |          |         |        |
 | L2-            |    |---l----------l---------l--|   _____
 o-------\ LMP1   |    | |  \|    |   |         w  |    /^\   D1
R4  47k   *       |    | |   |    |\  |         w  |   /---\
 --\/\/--/        |    | |   |    | | |         w  |     |
 |                |    |-l----------l-----------l--|     |
 |                |      |      RY1 |           |        |
 o L2+            |------|          |           |        |
 |                                  |           o---------
 |                                  |           |
 |                                  |            ----|
 |            D2                    |               /
 |          |\ |       T1           |              /
 |----------| >|-----wwwwww----------             /
            |/ |                                000
                                     |--------- 000  Q1
                                     |          000
           oooo                      |             \
          o    o               10k   |              \
 o-------o-/\/\/o------------/\/\/---|                \
+9V       o    o R2   \         R1                      |
           oooo       / 22k                           -----
                      \ R3                             ---
                      |                                 -
                      |
                    -----
                     ---
                      -