Internet Info 1997 December

home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search

/ Internet Info 1997 December / Internet_Info_CD-ROM_Walnut_Creek_December_1997.iso / faqs / rec / answers / hedgehog-faq / part5 < prev

Wrap

Internet Message Format | 1997-10-23 | 56.8 KB

Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ais.net!News.Toronto.iSTAR.net!news.istar.net!passport.ca!ftn.net!macnamar From: macnamar@pci.on.ca (Brian MacNamara) Newsgroups: rec.pets,rec.answers,news.answers Subject: Hedgehog FAQ [5/5] - Care and Understanding Supersedes: <Hedgehog5_874512115@pci.on.ca> Followup-To: rec.pets Date: 22 Oct 1997 17:53:55 GMT Organization: Passport Online Lines: 1149 Sender: macnamara@pci.on.ca (Brian MacNamara) Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.EDU Distribution: world Message-ID: <Hedgehog5_877542864@pci.on.ca> References: <Hedgehog1_877542864@pci.on.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: 207.112.123.91 Summary: Answers to Frequently Asked Questions and general information about pet (African Pigmy) hedgehogs. Should be helpful to both prospective and current hedgehog owners. Part V - understanding hedgehogs, and hedgehog health care Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.pets:75832 rec.answers:34936 news.answers:115149 Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part5 Posting-Frequency: monthly Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs Last-modified: 22 Oct 1997 Version: 2.31 HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 5 of 5) -- HEDGEHOG HEALTH CARE AND UNDERSTANDING Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara (macnamara@pci.on.ca) Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed. This document is copyright 1996 by Brian MacNamara. See section [0.5] for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. The basic Hedgehog FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available from wherever you obtained this one. A complete table of contents for all five parts is given in part I. Please note: I am not a hedgehog expert, and I did not write, or verify, all the information in this FAQ. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way. For advice from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with hedgehogs. ------------------------------ Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE 7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do *** <7.1> Self-anointing. What is it? Why do hedgehogs do it? <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot. Is that normal? <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating? <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes. What should I do? <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic? Is this normal? <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire 8. *** Basic health care *** <8.1> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? <8.2> What health risks should I worry about? <8.3> Vaccinations, etc. <8.4> Mites (or mites, not?) 9. *** Problems to watch for and related information *** <9.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for? <9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days. What's wrong? <9.3> My hedgehog's not eating. What should I do? <9.4> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of them? 10. *** Wild hedgehogs *** <10.1> Caring for visiting hedgehogs <10.2> Hedgehog housing <10.3> Hedgehogizing your garden <10.4> Wild hedgehog health <10.5> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do *** ------------------------------ Subject: <7.1> Self-anointing. What is it? Why do hedgehogs do it? I have mentioned self-anointing (or self-lathering, as it is sometime called, in at least the U.K.) repeatedly throughout the FAQ, so now it is time to explore the hedgehog's one truly unique trait. Nathan Tenny provided a good description of this interesting and perplexing hedgehog habit: If you smell *really* interesting, your hedgehog will lick or nibble on you, back off, and suddenly contort itself, start foaming at the mouth, and lick the foam onto its spines. This ``self-anointing'' has to be seen to be believed, but it's perfectly normal. It's not known for sure why they do it, but it probably has something to do with self-defence; hedgehogs are *highly* resistant to most toxins, and when they encounter something that might be toxic, they get it in their mouths, foam, and cover themselves with the toxic mixture. The result is a toxic hedgehog, which is really something to reckon with. (Incidentally, the toxin resistance of hedgehogs is truly prodigious and has been the subject of some research; they are one of the few animals that can safely eat giant toads (_Bufo marinus_), for instance.) One more last note: We don't know why this happens, but even without the benefit of self-anointing, their spines seem to have a mild toxic/irritant effect; when you prick yourself on one, even slightly, it hurts more than it should, and for a little bit longer. No big deal, just sort of strange. One of the most effective ways to provoke a session of self-anointing is to pick up your hedgehog when you have sweaty hands, or after having used hand lotion, or a different type of soap. In any case, once you have witnessed this entertaining act, and you have calmed down enough to understand your little friend doesn't have rabies after all, you will likely be convinced that hedgehogs do not have backbones. It's really hard to believe something as round as a hedgehog can twist itself into that contorted a position. It's also a bit disconcerting to learn just how long that tongue is! ------------------------------ Subject: <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot. Is that normal? Yep. If he doesn't, are you sure you have a hedgehog? The snuffling or snorting (or snurfling, as my wife calls it), while having the head tucked down, is part of the defense mechanism that has kept hedgehogs around for a very long time. It basically leaves them with their quills protecting every bit of visible surface, but still allows the hedgehog to move. The snuffling and snorting is usually accompanied by sudden lurches in the direction the hedgehog believes its potential enemy is in, to try and give it a good warning prickle. The more your hedgehog comes to know you, the less you will get the sharp shoulder treatment. One exception to this is if your hedgehog is sleepy. A sleepy hedgehog can be very insistent about not being disturbed [3.1]. Getting your hedgehog to become familiar with you takes a lot of patience, but it is worth it. If your hedgehog tends to be somewhat shy or unfriendly towards you, try spending more time holding him -- chances are he just doesn't associate your smell with being a friend, yet. ------------------------------ Subject: <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating? A quick note here: this section applies to African Pigmy hedgehogs, rather than European hedgehogs (which do hibernate, primarily between January and March). A common concern is whether or not pet hedgehogs hibernate -- especially as winter starts to arrive. The answer is generally no. However, if the temperature where they are kept drops too low (below about 20 degrees C or 68 degrees F), they can start preparing for hibernation and will certainly go into hibernation for brief periods, if the temperature drops much below this -- at least until the temperature returns to a comfortable level. If your hedgehog seems to be sleeping too soundly, and you are worried, any kind of movement to his or her bed will usually earn you at least a brief spate of unhappy snuffling. If this happens, then you can probably assume you've just disturbed a sleepy hedgehog. If this and nudging at him don't have any effect, and he's been in quite a cool (for a hedgehog) temperature, he may have slipped into the beginnings of hibernation, and should be gently (and slowly) warmed up, which should let him awaken. Hedgehogs will also tend to slow down and get somewhat grumpy if they are kept at a temperature that's too cool for their liking. If you're finding that your previously energetic hedgehog is acting a bit slow and grumpy, and cool weather has started to arrive, then you may want to take steps to warm up your hedgehog [5.2]. Another sign that a hedgehog that is too cool is its going off its food. If your hedgehog isn't eating, and is walking a bit funny, it may be because he is a bit cool. The first thing to do is to check to see if the animal is warm enough. Feel its legs and belly. If these feel chilled the animal needs to be immediately warmed up. A chilled hedgehog will walk as if it is drunk. A variety of methods can be used to warm them. The one that I use is to put the animal in the cut off sleeve of a sweatshirt. I then put it in a box (I actually have an 8 litre cooler that I use) with a jar of hot water. Close the lid of the box (or put the lid on loosely to allow for air in the cooler). They usually warm up in about an hour or so. When I put the animal back in its own cage, I make sure I give it a sleeve to keep warm in. Some animals are more prone to chills than others. -- Linda Wheatley In general, the likelihood of hibernation happening is quite low, so if your hedgehog isn't making its home in the refrigerator, and you don't like living in subarctic conditions indoors, you probably shouldn't worry. That having been said, I have heard of several instances of it happening (briefly, and all fully recovered when warmed up), so some caution is worthwhile. Probably more worrisome is the chance of pet hedgehogs going into aestivation. This is similar to hibernation, but is done when things get too warm. In their natural habitat, this is to let the hedgehog wait things out until cooler and/or damper weather returns. African Pigmy hedgehogs are more likely to slip into this state, especially in light of heatwaves in recent years in North America, than they are to wind up hibernating. The problems and side effects of aestivation are largely the same as for hibernation. You should not let a pet hedgehog hibernate, or aestivate. As pets, hedgehogs do not stock up on food, nor put on the necessary extra body fat needed to get through hibernation. A pet that is allowed to hibernate extensively will likely wake up very sick and very weak -- if at all. ------------------------------ Subject: <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes. What should I do? Occasional sneezes are normal. When you consider the amount of exploring that hedgehogs like to do, in combination with just how busy that little nose is, it's pretty easy to understand that the result will be an occasional sneeze. Extended sneezing fits, or nasal discharge, however, indicates a problem, and a trip to the vet is in order. ------------------------------ Subject: <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic? Is this normal? You've just introduced your hedgehog to a nice new big pen and all of a sudden it's like he's going crazy, running madly around the cage, trying to get out of every little nook and cranny, and generally driving you up the wall. Yes, this is quite normal (for the hedgehog -- you being up the wall, I can't comment on). Hedgehogs appear to do this when they get into a new environment, and will usually settle down in a while, once they decide that (a) they can't actually get out (which given the slightest chance, they will), and (b) they have decided this is now home. Some hedgehogs will literally climb the walls just to check whether you remembered a roof or not. Pocus, my youngest female, is a fine example of this. She will climb anything, anywhere, anytime, to any height. Some things you can do to reduce the chaos and chances of reoccurrence are to provide a familiar nest or burrow for your little beast, and to install a wheel for exercise [5.6] (all that energy is pretty normal in hedgehogs -- scary, huh?). Lots of active play times can help too. One other answer here is to simply enjoy the fact that you have a healthy, energetic hedgehog. ------------------------------ Subject: <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire As far as sounds go, officially, the only sounds that hedgehogs are supposed to make is their snuffling and snorting when they are feeling threatened, and some squeaking as babies. That said, I can tell you hedgehogs have an amazing number of little sounds in their repertoire. I have it on good advice and from personal experience that there are a number of other hedgehog vocalizations that occur in both babies and adults. One time that hedgehogs completely abandon their silent ways is when it comes to mating. This is particularly true of males who will often end up sounding like a video game gone wild with an amazing series of squeaks and chirps as they vie for the favours of the lady. In addition, here are some comments from other people on hedgehog sounds: At least two of my younger ones have kept this ability [nursing type squeaks] and can shriek quite loudly when startled or angry. This will wake the deepest sleeper. -- Mike McGary All the hedgehogs I've known have made a quiet twittering noise when they were relaxed and exploring. -- Nathan Tenny I'd like to thank Mike McGary, with some commentary from Nathan Tenny and Znofyl, for sharing thoughts on the virtuoso singing of hedgehogs here to give people an idea of some of the extremes that can be reached. I would also like to note that the loudest thing that has ever come out of Velcro, other than his nervous snufflings, is a contented slurp when he's buried his nose in a container of cream. The books all say that hedgehogs don't make much noise. They do squeak for their mother when they are still nursing and make snorting and snuffling noises as adults....one account says that they can snore quite loudly. My young male (Adam) has been known to scream when frightened. This isn't a small squeak, but a full-fledged rabbit-caught-in-a-trap scream. But the real oddity has started recently. We have one of those beep-beep-beep-beep alarm clocks. We normally set it for 6:00 am, but keep pushing the snooze button every time it goes off (sometimes for a long time). After the alarm goes off, Adam starts to make this eeeeh-eeeeeh-eeeeeeh sound like he is imitating the alarm clock. He does it every morning and you can get up and watch him....he doesn't move....he just sings. -- Mike McGary The following from Znofyl and Nathan are about as good an answer to this mystery as we're likely to get without growing quills ourselves: I wonder whether the hedgie isn't responding to this alarm noise thinking it is another male. My males are VERY noisy when breeding. -- Znofyl This sounds really likely to me. My male's mating noise is a sort of breathy ``squeeEEEEEk-squeeEEEEEk''---is that the general tenor of Adam's morning ditty? -- Nathan Tenny From my own experience, when Velcro first learned about the arrival of his first girlfriend, Sprocket, he put on the most amazing little session of barking and squeaking. She, in turn, frequently squeaked, especially if she was trying to nudge her way out from between someone's fingers to get to the rest of the world. We have also had the experience of Mike McGary's ``rabbit-caught-in-a-trap'' squealing, shortly after bringing home Hocus and Pocus. The den they share only has one entrance/exit, and apparently one of the girls was blocking the door from the other one. It was quite a scary sound to hear, but the girls appeared none the worse for wear by the time we arrived seconds later, out of breath from a mad dash. Recently I've had several reports of hedgehogs 'purring': Sonic purrs, like a cat! He only does it when he's eating something wonderful - usually a chicken or turkey stick (I always hold him when he gets these) and I can hear him making short bursts (2-5 seconds) that sounds and feels (the vibration) like a low cat purr. I'm assuming this is good, since he devours the stick like he's starving, although he always has dry kitten chow (yes, he eats it) in his dish. -- Debbie Allen While I haven't had this experience, it certainly sounds like quite the thing. The gist of this whole section is really to let readers know that hedgehogs are capable of making a wide range of sounds -- if and when they want. At this rate, a hedgehog dictionary may be the next big addition to the FAQ! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8. *** Basic health care *** ------------------------------ Subject: <8.1> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? Given that hedgehogs are not overly social except during mating, (and even then it can often be a tentative truce at best) it is unlikely that spaying/neutering is anything you need to worry about. In addition to this, I suspect you would be hard pressed to find a veterinarian who could (let alone would) do the operation. As a cautionary reminder, hedgehogs as young as 6 weeks old can, and will, mate. If you do have babies, remember to separate them before this age, or you will have even more hoglets on the way, and probably not as you would want. In short, altering your hedgehog is not a worry, although Velcro would have me believe that it might be worthwhile -- he's made his desires towards my females abundantly clear, and would have me overrun with hoglets in no time given half the opportunity (the ladies, however, have defended their virtue admirably). ------------------------------ Subject: <8.2> What health risks should I worry about? Hedgehogs have an amazing immunity to most things that are toxic. Quantities of many toxins that would kill a human hundreds or even thousands of times over will often have no noticeable effect on a hedgehog at all. This trait has inspired both legends and scientific research, with no conclusive results other than acknowledgment that it is true. This means that should your hedgehog accidentally encounter any of the numerous poisons that exist within every modern home, chances are your little friend will wander off none the worse for wear, while if it had been another type of pet, it may have been in dire need of a visit to the vet. However, just because hedgehogs are considered to be all but poison proof is no reason for you to take chances. They are immune to many toxins, but there could always be an exception. You should supervise your hedgehog's wanderings and keep dangerous substances tucked safely away. As I pointed out in [2.1], Pat Storer's books discuss blood chemistry and what kinds and doses of various medicines have been used successfully to treat hedgehogs. I strongly suggest you get a copy of one of these books, if for no other reason than to bring with you to the veterinarian, in the case of an emergency, so he or she knows what to expect and what to do about problems. They can get worms---it's probably a good idea to have them wormed regularly, once or twice a year. Oral Ivermectin works; I don't know what the dosage is, but the vet has indicated that it's a little higher (per unit of body weight) than for most animals. -- Nathan Tenny Courtesy of `chvall' who found the answer on the ``Exotic Net,'' apparently listed by Dr. Evan Blair, the standard dosage for Ivermectic is 0.1 cc per 10 lbs. You should always check the lable of particular package, as it is always possible that it might be offered in different concentrations. Hedgehogs are also susceptible to fleas, which you might want to be concerned about if you have other pets, especially if they are indoor/outdoor pets. Treatment of fleas is well described in the Flea and Tick FAQ [9.4], and most safe commercial flea treatments should work. One possible caveat is that bathing hedgehogs can be problematic, and for young hedgehogs, quite dangerous [6.6]. A number of books and articles I've seen warn strictly against it, while others recommend it as something that adults can enjoy. My own experience has been that my hedgehogs definitely don't like it, while other people I've heard from say their hedgies love bath time. Fortunately, since most hedgehogs are likely to be indoor only pets, this often greatly reduces the chances of them ever getting fleas. Far more of a problem than fleas are mites [8.4] which are a fairly common pest among hedgehogs. I would also like to add a quick reminder here about using solid wheels, and to pad the spokes to prevent injuries [5.6]. One other area of concern is obesity. Hedgehogs can easily become overweight, partially due to their potential for hibernation [7.3], they can, and will, pack on weight in preparation for a lengthy hibernation that never comes. Letting them hibernate is NOT the answer -- a diet and exercise are. If your hedgehog is getting too plump, just cut back on his food a bit, and try to encourage activity by letting him run around, or giving him a wheel. ------------------------------ Subject: <8.3> Vaccinations, etc. Although this could fit into the previous section, I felt it deserved a section of its own. After taking my herd of cats in for their annual shots, I found myself wondering about what shots, if any, a hedgehog should have. Primarily, the biggest worry in North America is likely rabies, but there are other potential fungal/bacterial/viral infections as well. After talking with my (non-hedgehog oriented) vet, I took my questions to the appropriate source (thanks Cathy Johnson-Delaney, DVM). It turns out the answer is quite simple, yet complicated (don't you just love it when answers are like that?). As a general rule, for indoor hedgehogs that are not exposed to the dangers of outdoors, there is no need to worry. What complicates this is that local authorities may not see it that way, and especially in areas where diseases such as rabies exist, and they might be VERY insistent on vaccination -- even though no vaccine has been approved for hedgehogs yet. So, you don't need to vaccinate your hedgehog, unless otherwise required -- clear as mud, right? Here are some words of wisdom from Cathy to help clear things up a bit, and to try and cover the problem areas of what to do when you DO need to vaccinate a hedgehog, or get treatment otherwise. Remember, this is primarily her professional opinion, and not a set of absolute truths. At present, there are no vaccinations for pet hedgehogs. They are not susceptible to dog/cat diseases, or as far as I know, really any of the major agricultural/livestock disease problems (well in North America anyway - we don't vax our livestock for Foot & Mouth, which hedgies can get, but North America is FM free). Theoretically, they can get sick with many of the bacterial diseases of livestock, but the chances of them being exposed as indoor housepets is just about nil, unless you take them outside and let them mingle with pigs, chickens, cows, horses in breeding/dirty environments and let them feed on dung (I think they would risk getting stepped on first). The only exception to this might be if you were housing your hedgies outdoors in caging part of the year and rabies was a threat in your area - then I might recommend vaccinating with a killed rabies vax (Imrab) as a precaution, like we do for pet bunnies housed outdoors in rabies endemic areas. Realize that: 1. the vax is not approved for that species, no efficacy trials have been done 2. since it is not a recognized vax and is a non-domestic species, the FDA or Public Health Service/Dept/CDC (or Canada's equivalent) will not recognize the animal as being vaccinated so if the hedgie bites anyone, the animal will just be euthanized and tested. NO ifs, ands, or buts.... So the best all round precaution is not to let others handle your hedgie lest he bite someone, and that someone gets his/her physician, public health dept, etc. involved. The actual risk from rabies in an indoor pet hedgie is, in my opinion, non-existent, but public health people have regulations and hedgies fall into the blanket category of non-domestics so all rules apply. Another set of suggestions Cathy had was for sources for your veterinarian: Your veterinarian needs to have the most current published vet lit on hedgehogs: Journal of Small Exotic Animal Medicine: Vol 2, No 1: Husbandry and medicine of African Hedgehogs by Anthony J. Smith DVM reprints - contact JSEAM, back issues PO Box 618686 issue out of print, but article itself avail for $5.00 J of Small Exotic Animal Med: Vol 3 No. 1 pgs 12-15 Neonatology of the hedgehog (Atlerix albiventrix) by Anthony J. Smith, DVM (issue just arrived today!!!!!!!!!) order above through JSEAM Isenbugel, E. Baumgartner, RA 1993: Diseases of the Hedgehog. In: Zoo and Wild Animal Med, Current Therapy III, WB Saunders, Phila PA Chapter starting page 294 Hoefer, HL 1994. Hedgehogs. In: Quesenberry KE, HIllyer EV (eds). The Vet Clin of No Amer, Sm Anim Pract, Exotic Pet Med II, Vol 24, No 1, WB Saunders, Phila PA, Pp113-120. I am working on a clinicians' handbook for Wingers Publications that we hope to have completed by fall. It will contain info on hedgies, diets, formulary, etc. (even things like blood draws, radiographic views, fluid therapy......) Please pass the list of references to your veterinarian as sooner or later he/she will need them. (Murphy's law says that if you do, [your hedgehog] won't). ------------------------------ Subject: <8.4> Mites (or mites, not?) One of the most common problems that pet hedgehogs can suffer from are mites. Kathleen Close sent along a some thoughts from her veterinarian regarding mites, and how common they can be: He said 90% of the hogs he's seen do [have mites]. It looks like a white crusty coating on their quills. The doc just gives them a shot. It won't bother the hhog, but will poison the mites when they bite. How common mites are may be related to where you live. Also, it's quite common for a hedgehog to arrive already having mites. Indeed, many breeders may not even notice it, since it is rather easy to pass off as being 'normal' when it is not too bad. Some of the signs of mites are crusty deposits, especially around the eyes and at the base of the quills, and loss of quills. Don't panic if your hedgehog loses occasional quills -- they're much like our hair like that (although for some of us, this comparison might not work -- if you're like me, don't wait until there are no quills left thinking it's normal). If your hedgehog seems to be losing quite a few quills, more than you think is right, it's probably time to do something about it. Treating an average case of mites can be done at home, using a mild flea or Tick spray (for example Adams Flea Spray). Make sure you avoid the long lasting sprays, and spray your little friend down along his back from front to rear, making sure you avoid the head. Repeat this in a couple of days for 2 or 3 treatments and that should curb the mites. You will also need to completely clean out the cage when you do this or the mites hiding in the bedding will just wait until the spray wears down, and hop back on. One quick note, the bedding can often be the source of the mites. It is possible to get mite infested packages of bedding. You might want to switch to another package, and preferably another brand of bedding to be on the safe side. Most reputable brands of pet bedding attempt to treat their bedding products so they are pest free, but it is always possible that some managed to get through. In an emergency, you can use shredded newspaper to carry you through until you get new bedding. Here are some cautions to help you decide if the can of flea spray you're looking at will do the job and be safe: One important note: *make sure that the insecticide listed is pyrethrin*. Pyrethrin is the natural insect repellent (well, it comes from a flower). For those of you who aren't familiar with Adam's, it's an alcohol based mist. When you first spray it on an animal, all you can smell is the alcohol. (whew) It dries very quickly and after it dries, it has a pleasant smell. -- Christi Cantrell I suspect many such sprays are going to use an alcohol base, so beware that you don't get too much overspray in the air -- it isn't good for your hedgie (or you) to be breathing it. If you are in any doubt as to the safety of a spray, try a small amount sprayed on the rump. If there are any adverse effects, wash your hedgehog quickly and make tracks to a veterinarian, taking the can with you. Treating a serious case of mites can require a trip to the veterinarian. While it's not particularly difficult to treat, the problem can become serious if left untreated. To give you a perspective on mites, 'mange' is caused by a type of mite. Here are a few cautionary words from Todd Reeves, courtesy of his veterinarian, on treating hedgehogs for mites: Just a little note tomorrow I'm giving all my hedgies a mite BATH. I had a little discussion with my new vet, she has a little bit of experience with the little pin cushions, she says that the ingredient that they use to dilute the ivermectin (Propolyne Glycol) [this is the most commonly used medication for treating mites -- ed.] is extremely toxic and it is the main source of the deaths in a lot of animals that are treated with it. If I were to give them invermectin injections she says the solution would have to be pure and not diluted. Of course this makes for incredibly small dosages almost impossible to administer. As an alternative she has given me MITABAN, which is even more toxic, but it is in a liquid form that is diluted in water and administered as a BATH. I have to put an eye ointment on them first......I'm sure I'll have lots of entertaining attempts at this. I know that at least 3 of my hedgies will allow me to do this but Sahsha will have a little fit. I have heard of many hedgehogs being safely and properly treated by Ivermectin, but as always with an animal of this size, dangers exist when dealing with very powerful medications. Recently, Michael (knuckles) passed along the following information care of his veterinarian (note: this describes a pretty thorough mite infestation): First, yes -- you can see hedgemites. We were so unsure as to whether he had them because hedgemites live under the skin [note: in many bad cases they can be seen moving along the quills, if you look carefully -- ed.]. Their waste is usually the first sign you'll see of an infected hedgehog because mites leave their waste as white-brown circular crusts surrounding the base of the hog. Using a pair of tweezers, I removed one of the suspecting crusts and looked hard at what I had between the prongs. Crawling around the crust and onto the tweezers were tiny white specks. These specks appeared to be two-parted, meaning the middle was almost a clear line from side to side. My wife suggested the mites looked like a pair of Mini-Wheats (cereal) from 1,000 feet up [glad I'm not a morning person, I may never eat breakfast again -- ed.]. The reason why I say the white-brown crusty waste is the first sign is that prior to seeing this, my long and hard looks at Iggy's skin showed no sign of movement from the mites. Just lots of dandruff. You could put him on a black towel, roll him around, and it would look like it had just snowed on the towel. Iggy took the injection quite well. We let him curl up into a towel, I held the towel against my chest and she stuck the needle into his rump. He didn't even flinch. I expected him to burrow through my chest and into the wall behind me. Nada. Hog skin seems to be pretty darn thick, too. She really had to work to get the needle in. I hope this helps, and keep in mind my summations based upon this experience is just that: I'm no professional so take my conclusions at face value if you're dealing with your own hog, of course! -- Michael (knuckles) Michael also expressed relief over his vet opting not to use a mite powder. While I don't know if it would be dangerous if used carefully, powders can cause problems in hedgehogs if they get in the eyes, or end up being inhaled. Using either injections (from your vet), or a spray (where chances of inhaling it are over quickly, and it's far easier to protect against, and these can be flushed away from eyes much easier in the event of an accident), are safer options. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 9. *** Problems to watch for and related information *** ------------------------------ Subject: <9.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for? NOTE: I am not a veterinarian. I haven't even owned (been owned by?) a hedgehog for many years. Hedgehogs tend to be very resistant to disease once they reach adulthood, this makes for relatively easy care. As with all pets, any change in normal behavior, or eating, drinking, sleeping, or litter habits may indicate a health problem that bears looking into. At the moment there is little I can offer beyond this as far as warning signs. Hedgehogs are small. While they generally enjoy very good health, any kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in only a couple of days, so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately. Another type of problem that can occur in hedgehogs, though not that commonly are tumors or abscesses inside the mouth, and various dental related problems. Feeding them a diet which involves a substantial amount of dry (crunchy) food will help avoid some of these problems. Often these problems can be handled without complications, by a vet if caught early. Another problem which occurs in female hedgehogs are mammary tumors. Again, if caught early enough, these can be surgically removed by a vet. Fortunately, this isn't a common problem, but it is a life threatening one if and when it does occur. ------------------------------ Subject: <9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days. What's wrong? Normal hedgehog droppings can range from almost pellet-like to quite soft and sticky. Colour is usually very dark brown, almost black. Depending on diet, especially treats, they can vary quite a bit. If your hedgehog is leaving unusual droppings after having had a treat or change in diet a day or so before, then it is probably related to what he ate. If the problem continues (assuming the hedgehog is back on his normal diet), or if your hedgehog is suffering from severe diarrhea, see your vet, immediately. One thing that can help solve diarrhea is live cultured yogurt: I have recieved some info from my vet about diarreha in hedgies. He said that one of the best ways to cure it was to feed yogurt with Lacto Bascillus such as Alta Dena. He also said that most hedgies LOVE pina colada flavor (and mine do). -- Ian Van Natter As mentioned in section [6.2], some hedgehog food (though this now appears to have been changed to avoid this, and possibly other problems) can affect the colour of the droppings for a week or so. If you have just started feeding your prickly friend hedgehog food, the red coloured droppings are normal, and are not a sign of problems. There are, however, some serious problems that are indicated by funny looking stools. Remember that if you've fed your hedgie something odd, that is likely the cause of the problem, but if he's been on his normal diet, and changes in his stools happen, it may be a warning sign. For example: A good sign that there's something definitely wrong with your hedgie is stinky black tarry looking stool. If anyone's hedgie shows that it's [potentially] an internal lesion and the hedgie should be rushed to the vet IMMEDIATELY. The vet said he had necropsis of the kidney, mineralization of the heart, a lesion in his lower stomach and a touch of pneumonia or the flu (they think he got that the last day he lived, just another infection setting in). They think that it was his kidney's malfunctions that brought that all about, and they think that it was something he may have been born with. -- Ligia Ortega (via her veterinarian, from tests following the death of her hedgehog, Howard) While similar symptoms in your hedgehog might not indicate the same problem, a trip to a knowledgeable vet is probably worthwhile. In general, serious kidney problems in hedgehogs are probably not easily treatable, but catching such problems early might make a big difference. ------------------------------ Subject: <9.3> My hedgehog's not eating. What should I do? This is often the sign of either a sick, depressed, or especially a chilled [7.3] hedgehog. Assuming your hedgehog is warm enough, and there is no likelyhood of unusual stress (which can also put a hedgehog off eating), you may want to have a vet check for sickness, but clearly the thing that's needed is to get your pet back on its dinner. About the only suggestion I can offer is to attempt out and out bribery; offer your hedgehog his favorite treats, and try some cooked chicken or turkey. If possible, make sure he is drinking, and if necessary resort to using some thinned chicken broth, or even something as exotic as Gatorade (to help restore electrolytes). Other suggestions for bribery snacks are chopped hardboiled egg, and cottage cheese, and mealworms. Here are a few words of wisdom from Linda Wheatly on getting a hedgehog to eat: If the animal is warm, but not eating, first try varying its diet. I will often try raw meat [please note that there are dangers to using raw mea as outlined in section [6.2] -- ed.], which often works. I recently discovered an appetite ``picker upper'' which hasn't failed yet. I raise mice also, and will give the poor-eating hedgehogs dead pinky mice. Hedgehogs will also eat the bigger mice. If all else fails, and the animal refuses to eat anything, they can be force-fed. I beat an egg, add a little bit of milk and a tablespoon of corn syrup. I take a 1cc syringe and gently work it into the side of the hedgehog's mouth and slowly feed the mixture in. I generally feed 3cc's four times per day. If the animal is looking dehydrated, I may give it 1 or 2 cc's of water with each feeding. You may have to do this for 4 or 5 days. They will start eating again on their own. They will often show you that they are wanting to eat by themselves by really fighting you when you try to force feed them. Related to this is the problem of not drinking, or not drinking enough, resulting in dehydration. If water is available and accessible, this is usually not a problem, but if for one reason or another this does occur, it is important to get fluids into the hedgehog as quickly as reasonably possible. This might involve a vet visit and intravenous or similar fluid replacement. In less dire cases, you can use electolyte enhanced drinks, such as many of the sport drinks now availble, or better yet, Pedalyte, a form intended for children, which is quite a bit `safer' for sensitive digestive systems. Because of the cost, and quantity, this is not always an economical choice, however, as suggested by Sheri, you can get it in a powdered form under the brand name Kaopectalyte. Remember, given a hedgehog's small size, not eating or drinking can become deadly in very short order. If the situation persists for more than a couple of days, consider taking your little friend to a vet. ------------------------------ Subject: <9.4> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of them? Even if your hedgehog is never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or flea eggs on your shoes or clothing. There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of fleas and ticks. It's distributed in the rec.pets usenet newsgroup. You can also get it by FTP at: ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks (that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file) or by sending email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with the line send usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks in the body of the message (with an empty subject line). In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are likely safe for hedgehogs. Keeping in mind that bathing baby or young hedgehogs can be dangerous and should be avoided if possible [6.6]. It is better to spray on such products. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10. *** Wild hedgehogs *** ------------------------------ Subject: <10.1> Caring for visiting hedgehogs Many people throughout the world, especially in Europe, have the pleasure of having native hedgehogs visit their backyards and gardens. In many places an almost overpowering urge exists to try and help these little visitors -- after all, in many cases, they are doing their best to rid your garden of undesirable pests, besides they are irresistibly cute. A quick point here -- this section is on naturally wild hedgehogs, and that releasing pet hedgehogs into an environment, even one they could survive in, in order to create a wild population, or just to dispose of a pet you no longer want, is both cruel and dangerous. In other words, simply don't do it. You should probably be aware that there is an interesting side effect to having visiting hedgehogs in your garden, as Peter Captijn puts it: European hedgehogs are known to wake up people sleeping with an open window, when they are mating. I'm NOT joking: people usually think there are burglars around the house and call the police. When it comes to providing food for visiting hedgehogs, the age old standard of a saucer of milk is not particularly nutritious (and can bother hedgehog's stomachs), although I have no doubt that the hedgehogs dearly love it. In general, the same sorts of rules that apply to pet hedgehogs [6.2], also apply for people wanting to feed wild hedgehogs. The biggest difference probably being the quantity -- European hedgehogs are MUCH larger than the African Pigmy variety, and have larger appetites in corresponding to their size (Something can have a bigger appetite than Pocus? I'd have to see that to believe it!). As with African Pigmy hedgehogs, straight dog/cat food is not the ideal food either, unless as Peter Captijn put it ``you find hedgeballs thriving'': You can feed them any kind of slugs. European hedgehogs eat slugs, preferably by the kilo. I've heard and seen (in that order) them eating snails, but Morris believes they leave them [alone, given the choice of other foods]. (I'm not sure, but they probably need the calcium from the snail's houses.) Fritzsche warns about feeding weakened hedgehogs snails and slugs. The snails can be infected with lungworms (Crenosoma striatum), which can kill a diseased hedgehog. -- Peter Captijn Again from Peter is the following on feeding: Helga Fritzsche's recipe for hedgehog food: 500 g meager meatloaf (I'm not into cooking as you can tell from the used words) 1 stroked of tablespoon lime for pets (Calcium stuff for pets) 1 tablespoon of linseed-oil 1 handful dogdinner (the hard stuff) 1 handful oats with bearded wheat (spelt) (This comes right out the dictionary.) Mix it and make balls from about 35 grams, put them in alu- kitchen-foil and keep them in the freezer. She recommends giving food once or twice (preferably): in the morning a bit and in the evening more. In the morning she gives 10 to 12 pieces of dogfood and 6 to 8 mealworms. (Fat ones only get water), in the evening one ball of 35 grams of the above, 15 pieces of dogfood and 6 to 8 mealworms. Everything is depending on the size of the hedgehog. Keep in mind that European hedgehogs are bigger then African Pigmy. She uses a vitamin-prep, 1 or 2 drips on the food. All food must be on hedgehog temperature (at least room temperature). By the way, she kills the mealworms prior to feeding so they can't get away. [have you ever seen a mealworm get away from a hedgehog? -- ed] If you can manage to tolerate handling live food enough to feed it, most hedgehogs love to hunt a bit as suggested by Anja van der Werf: Please don't kill mealworms before feeding them to the animals: they (the hedgehogs) have a right to have fun too. With that comes a gentle reminder that pet hedgehogs or wild hedgehogs that are in captivity (such as convalescing from injury or illness), do need some entertainment -- a barren cage means a boring life for an animal that usually spends its nights snuffling over a surprising expanse of territory. Do your friends a favour, and let them play. With the number of hedgehogs killed on roads, it's not surprising that orphaned babies do occur. If you come across baby hedgehogs wandering about on their own, during the middle of the day, there is a good chance that they are orphans. That said, don't simply collect them and take them home to care for them. Unless they are obviously in dire straits, it's best to give them a day or possibly two to see if mom does return. If she hasn't within that time, you should probably consider taking action. What you feed them depends on their age. If they are old enough it might be possible to feed them canned cat or dog food (or one of the recipes above). If they are too young, take a look at the suggestions for nursing replacements outlined in the section on Feeding baby hedgehogs <6.3>. The same formulas will work for baby European hedgehogs, only the quantities will likely be quite a bit greater (the 'hog' part of the name isn't there for no reason...). Another thing you can do for orphaned hedgehogs, is to contact one of the organizations that provide sanctuaries or assistance (such as St. Tiggywinkles <2.8>). They can often provide information or assistance, and can even provide a home for the babies. This also goes for injured or sick hedgehogs that you might happen across. ------------------------------ Subject: <10.2> Hedgehog housing Most European countries are very protective about their native hedgehogs, so this section does not refer to caging or keeping hedgehogs, but more about providing shelter and protection for those that come to visit. Here are some ideas from Peter Captijn on providing dens (see [2.9] also): I have two daytime-sleeping-dens under some foliage. These are open constructions which give protection against wind and rain. And they like it, I may say. Every year there are some hedgehogs in the garden, and sometimes, when I'm lucky, a pregnant female likes it so much that she decides to have her hoglets in one of the dens. I call it daytime-sleeping-dens but the hedgehogs regularly hibernate in them. The roof isn't attached permanently but can be removed by lifting it. It fits tight by some wooden blocks. Hence I can clean it once a year (when it is not in use: no fresh droppings). The den is made of water-resistant multiplex (without formaldehyde!), the roof is decked with asphalt-paper. Untreated wood can be painted (use lead-free paint!) to give it a green-brownish look. In the left top view: in the right under corner I drill some 1 cm holes to let the piss drain away, but I'm not sure it's really needed. Hedgehogs use these den's to sleep in and do not often soil it. If they do, they choose a corner and use that always. I fill this den with some fresh (petstore) hay, but the hedgehog usually redecorates it with old leaves and such. Peter also sent along some great drawings, which I will try to ASCIIize and include in an upcoming revision of the FAQ. ------------------------------ Subject: <10.3> Hedgehogizing your garden There are a lot of things you can do to make your garden more appealing and safer for visiting hedgehogs -- all of which will encourage them to visit. Of course, having a bumper crop of slugs is probably number one on the hedgehog's list, but likely somewhere below the bottom of yours! If you want to attract hedgehogs to your garden (assuming they are native to your area), one of the best ways (as always with hedgehogs) is bribery. Put out some food, preferably something like canned cat or dog food, or some cooked eggs (scrambled supposedly works well). Fresh water is always a good lure too, though beware of offering too much in the way of a swimming pool without a way out (see below). Finally, a safe place to live, like a leaf pile, or better yet a hedgehog house as described by places like the BHPS [2.8] or by burying a wooden box (upside down) with a short underground access. When it comes to protecting hedgehogs, there is usually little danger to them in the garden from other animals or objects, as illustrated here by Peter Captijn: I have two cats (females), and the garden is frequently visited by many others (males!), but I'm still in doubt whether I should protect the cats from the hedgehog, or vise versa. The hedgehog usually barges through, whether there is a cat lying in its way or not [gee, that sounds familiar - ed.]. The only risk I probably have, is getting hedgehog-pests contaminated cats. Hedgehogs aren't bothered easily, they have repeatedly walked over my mother's feet. That said, there are dangers lurking in many gardens. Again, here are some words of wisdom from Peter Captijn: Please note that ANY PESTICIDE you'll use in your garden is bound to end up in your HEDGEHOG, which means in an alarming rate: NO HEDGEHOG! Hedgehogs are resistant against animal poisons, not man-made pesticides. Hedgehogs do not destroy gardens, they do not dig, they only manure it. They (try to) keep your garden free of pests and bugs. One of the worst things by way of pesticides is slug bait. This builds up in slugs, which are one of the hedgehogs favorite foods, and hence in the hedgehog. If possible, avoid the slug bait and let the hedgehogs do the slug-removal, or if you must use it, make sure you keep hedgehogs out of your garden. Another, somewhat odd problem is that hedgehogs seem to compulsively crawl into or through things (or at least try to, often becoming stuck). This includes cans, plastic rings from drink cans, nets, plastic yoghurt or ice cream cups, and even key-rings. Why they feel a need to go into or through instead of around is anyone's guess, but anything a hedgehog can get into, he will, and if it's possible to become stuck, he will. Also, pools and ponds present a unique problem to visiting hedgehogs. Many man-made pools and ponds have smooth sides, which are too slippery or steep for a hedgehog, who has accidently fallen in, to climb out. One of the easiest safeguards I have seen for this is to simply dangle a thick rope into the water and tie the other end off to a stake. This is usually enough for a hedgehog to climb out with. Hedgehogs can swim, and will follow around the outside of the pool or pond looking for some way to get out. The only time they tend to drown is in cases where they get too tired searching for a non-existent way out. Another method some people use is to create a wooden ramp, with one end floating in the water, and the other end safely attached on dry land. As a summary of such dangers, here is a list composed by David Mantle of some of he hazards that face wild hedgehogs in our modern world. I've annotated a few items for clarity. Below are just some of the hazards that wild hedgehogs in England have to face as well as surviving hibernation. Badgers (one of their few natural predators) Barbed-wire Cars Empty cat food tins Fires (especially on Nov. 5th) (Guy Fawkes Day - fires and fireworks) Four-pack ring binders Garden forks Gin traps Human cruelty, kicking, stabbing etc. Metal fencing Milk cartons Netting Paint Plastic cups Removed drain covers Slug pellets (poison used to kill slugs) Strimmers String Yoghurt pots There are just so many things that they can become trapped in. -- David Mantle ------------------------------ Subject: <10.4> Wild hedgehog health For the most part, wild hedgehogs are quite able to look after themselves. Here is a reminder from Peter Captijn that as friendly as wild hedgehogs are, they are still wild animals and certain realities apply: When a wild hedgehog has to be kept in house or with other hedgehogs, it's a good idea to get rid of the fleas and ticks [9.4] before you infect your clean house. Most people use cat spray, but ticks tend to live through that. Bathing in vermin killing stuff will be the solution. It can be done (preferably once) in a little warm water so the hedgehog can't drown. Never use sprays or whatever on piglets/hoglets, and never spray something in the eyes, you can blind the hedgehog. Please remind: a healthy wild hedgehog has vermin, always! This is natural. Also from Peter are some pointers on various other health problems: Rabies: from various sources - European hedgehogs don't get rabies. Whether that means they just die very quick, or that they are immune, I don't know. [Editor's note: hedgehogs 'can' get rabies, but due to the way they live, it is relatively rare, at least as compared to other, more aggressive or easily bitten animals] Diseases: I can list the vermin hedgehogs usually get and the remedy (using German medicine, but perhaps you can get/use them in the US) if you're interested. About lungworms; Fritzsche writes about German scientific study regarding lungworms by hedgehogs. Lungworms are capsulated in the lungs and die. If the hedgehog isn't healthy, this apparently doesn't work [fast enough?], and the hedgehog dies. I do have hedgehogs running free in the garden, and I hear and see [them] (in that order) eat snails and slugs, every day, and quite a lot of them. I won't hesitate to offer a hedgehog a snail, but I can't estimate the involved risk (if any). ------------------------------ Subject: <10.5> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs European hedgehogs hibernate during the winter months (unlike wild African Pigmy hedgehogs who tend to do the opposite, aestivating during the hot dry periods [7.3]). The core hibernation months for hedgehogs are typically January through March, with some hedgehogs who haven't put on enough weight in time still staying up and around until February (usually desperately trying to add to their winter fat so they can survive the cold). Hibernation is a tough time for hedgehogs. If they haven't put on enough weight, or if it is a particularly long or cold winter, they just might not make it. However, even well fed hedgehogs who think they've found the ideal, snug, warm place to survive the winter can run into modern problems, as described by Seabury Salmon: About Fall time, they hibernate in piles of leaves and things at the bottom of the garden. The British gardener is a tidy beast and likes to burn the leaves. Hence, roast hedgehog. Before you start burning your leaves, etc., give the pile a quick check in case a friendly neighbourhood hedgehog has made a winter den in the middle of your refuse. European [hedgehogs] prepare for hibernation when it gets real cold: 7 degrees Celsius and below (about 16 degrees Fahrenheit). -- Peter Captijn (Forgive me Peter, but I wish I lived with your idea of ``real cold'' -- that sounds like a nice warm spring or autumn day!) Hedgehogs will often remain curled up in hibernation until well into April. If you discover one in a pile of leaves in your garden in the spring, you can give him a good start to the year by putting out a pan of dog or cat food where he will find it when he wakes up. You may even gain a friend who will continue to visit your garden. -- My opinions belong to me and my company can't have them! +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+ |@@@@@@@@@@ @@@| Brian MacNamara | Email: macnamara@pci.on.ca | |@@@@@@ *** @| Sr. Tech. Manager | Tel: (905) 764-0614 | |@@@ ******* @| | Fax: (905) 764-9604 | |@@ ********* @@| PCI Enterprises | PCI WWW Url: | |@ ******* @@@| 50 West Wilmot St. | http://www.pci.on.ca/ | |@ *** @@@@@@| Richmond Hill, Ont. | Personal WWW Url: | |@@@ @@@@@@@@@@| Canada L4B 1M5 | http://www.pci.on.ca/~macnamar | +---------------------------------------------------------------------------+