Internet Info 1997 December/Internet_Info_CD-ROM_Walnut_Creek_December_1997.iso/faqs/alt/answers/locksmith-faq

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From: [e-mail] (Henry E Schaffer)
Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing,alt.answers,news.answers
Subject: alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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Followup-To: alt.locksmithing
Date: 18 Oct 1997 17:50:43 -0600
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Summary: This post gives answers to many of the common questions
  asked.  It is strongly recommended that it be read before posting
  to this group.
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu alt.locksmithing:21804 alt.answers:29726 news.answers:114919

Archive-name: locksmith-faq
Posting-Frequency: monthly (mid-month)
Last-modified: 97/10/15
Version: 6.11
  [1]alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions

     _________________________________________________________________

   This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
   simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
   you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
   terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.

   This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups [2]"alt.locksmithing",
   [3]"alt.answers", and [4]"news.answers". The latest version of the FAQ
   should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "rtfm.mit.edu" in
   directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing". You can also retrieve this
   FAQ by email; send mail to "[e-mail]" with "send
   usenet/alt.locksmithing/a.l_a_t_F_A_Q_(F).Z" contained in the BODY of
   the message.

   A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed at indra.com on the
   World Wide Web using "http://www.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing".
   Version 6.11 Last changed 10/15/97

Questions Answered:

    1. [5]Where can I get a lock pick set?
    2. [6]How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
    3. [7]Is it legal to carry lock picks?
    4. [8]Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
          + [9]I can't print the Guide!
    5. [10]What books can I get on locksmithing?
    6. [11]What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
    7. [12]How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
    8. [13]Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
    9. [14]How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
   10. [15]Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
   11. [16]Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and
       other security enhancements for my home?
   12. [17]What should I do after I read a book?
   13. [18]How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
   14. [19]How do I learn the locksmithing trade?
   15. [20]How do I learn more about Master Keying?
   16. [21]How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
   17. [22]Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master
       Lock?
   18. [23]Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though
       manipulation?
   19. [24]What is the "shear line".
   20. [25]What is "impressioning"?
   21. [26]What is a code? What is a codebook?
   22. [27]How do I open a car with a Slim Jim?
   23. [28]What is a jiggler key?
   24. [29]Is there an ethical dimension to locksmithing?
   25. [30]I have a safe without the combination - how do I open it?
   26. [31]How do I disassemble a Kwikset key in knob entry set?

     * [32]Other online locksmithing related resources
     * [33]Glossary
     * [34]Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
     * [35]Information for collectors.
     * [36]Credit & Thanks

  1. Where can I get a lock pick set?

   Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
   Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your State or the company may have
   requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith or showing a
   drivers license; call and find out. Also look for mail order houses in
   the Appendix. You can also check on the Web for suppliers.

  2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?

   You can file or or (more easily) grind picks out of spring steel. It
   is best to use spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades, piano
   (music) wire, clock springs, streetsweeper bristles (which can be
   found along the street after the sweeper has passed), metal from a
   plumbers "snake", etc. In a pinch safety pin steel, or even a bobby
   pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding, keep the steel from
   getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may have to
   re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making, gunsmithing, or
   machine shop practice for a discussion on heat treating steel. Spring
   steel is hardened and then tempered/drawn so as to retain some
   hardness and to get quite a bit of flexibility.) Some people prefer a
   rigid tension wrench and just bend a small screwdriver for this, but
   many prefer a slightly flexible wrench and use spring steel.

   The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books (see
   below) cover making these tools. There are many places you can buy
   picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.

   Steve Haehnichen <[e-mail]> maintains an archive of GIF and
   JPEG images of picks located at [37]ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
   which are useful guides for those making their own picks.

  3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?

   This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems to be
   that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as keys,
   picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools to commit
   a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library, district
   attorney, police department, or your own attorney to be sure.
   Posession of potential "burglar tools" can be be used as evidence
   against you if you are found in incriminating circumstances. An
   example of a state law can be found in the Viginia State Code: Section
   18.2-94 _Possession of burglarious tools, etc._ "If any person have in
   his possession any tools, implements or outfit, with intent to commit
   burglary, robbery or larceny, upon conviction thereof he shall be
   guilty of a Class 5 felony."

   Note that the prosecution has to prove "intent". However, the law
   continues: "The possession of such burglarious tools, implements or
   outfit by any person other than a licensed dealer, shall be prima
   facie evidence of an intent to commit burglary, robbery or larceny."
   This means that the possesor can have a bit of an uphill battle and
   has to convince the jury that this 'prima facie evidence' is
   misleading.

   Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
   The District of Columbia, New York State and Illinois. New Jersey law
   appears to make these illegal if they can work motor vehicle locks.
   There may be many other places as well (such as Canada.) It can be
   hard to tell since the relevant laws can be dealing with burglary,
   motor vehicles or locksmith regulation, etc. This emphasizes the
   importance of finding out for *your* area - and determining the
   applicability to *your* circumstances (e.g., locksmith, full or
   part-time), repo worker, building maintenance worker, ...

  4. Where can I get the [38]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?

   The author of the [39]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the Tool",
   has posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can be
   retrieved via ftp from:

   ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
   You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.

   Dave Ferret scanned/typed in a version of the Guide, it is a file of
   the text of the Guide and a collection of GIFs of the diagrams. This
   can be found in ZIP and tar format in:

   ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/unofficial

   Mattias Wingstedt has converted the Guide to HTML and made it
   available on the Web at
   [40]http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html.

   Ken Waldron has converted the Guide to MS Word format and it can be
   retrieved via ftp from:
   ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/mitguideMSW.zip
   Since this is a zipped file, you will need to set ftp to binary mode
   and then unzip it after retrieving it. You may want to start by
   retrieving the small mitguideMSE.README file first.

  4b. I can't print the Guide!

   Try deleting the two lines that read:

   statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if

  5. What books can I get on locksmithing?

   An excellent encyclopedic reference:

   The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th ed.
   Bill Phillips McGraw-Hill, Inc. 1995
   ISBN 0-07-049866-0 (Paper)
   $24.95 (Paper) USA

   and by the same author:
   Professional Locksmithing Techniques, 2nd Edition
   Bill Phillips TAB Books/McGraw-Hill 1996
   ISBN 0-07-049867-9 (Paper) $36.95 (Paper)

   also many people think highly of:

   Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
   "Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
   ISBN 0-685-39143-4 4 Volumes $20

   Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You can
   find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print Subject
   Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see the Appendix.

  6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?

   A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating pin
   to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the shear
   line so the the plug can rotate. They are not a panacea, and aren't
   always effective although some people find them to work extremely
   well. The net seems to feel that these are no substitute for a little
   skill with a pick and learning how locks work.

  7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?

   Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite for a
   new key. Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to pick and
   re-key the lock for you.

   Easy: Get a car jack and jack it apart. Careful, otherwise it is very
   possible that you'll damage the bike.

   Easy: Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at the hole
   in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)

   Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back the
   plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that holds in the
   cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.

   Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or Freon,
   smash with hammer. While this is a "well known" method, it may be an
   urban legend.

  8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?

   Stan Schwarz writes:

     I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
     coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
     approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
     for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
     practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
     5-30 seconds using these tools.

   However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
   they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
   or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.

   It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
   with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
   legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can. Be sure to wear
   gloves!

   The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your car
   for something easier. But if a thief wants your car, the Club will not
   stop him. An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft recovery system
   like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.

  9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?

   Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It". Some
   will even stamp _"DO NOT DUPLICATE"_ on the copy for you. If that
   doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the _"DO NOT
   DUPLICATE"_ stamp and try again. Many locksmiths aren't 'fooled' by
   the tape, but many key-cutting clerks don't care.

  10. Do Skeleton Keys Exists?

   "Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
   There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks. Master keys may open
   a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
   'pinned' with master pins.

  11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks and other
  security enhancements for my home?

   Why not? If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are not
   much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
   hardened inserts to protect against drilling.) However, note that
   protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
   since burglars almost always go the brute force route. Regardless, you
   should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.
   An excellent project is to do a security survey of your own premises.
   Look at the entire problem - consider lighting and visibility, as well
   as the locks, doors and windows. Ask your insurance agent, you may be
   eligible for a premium reduction if you make a few changes in your
   home such as a) adding deadbolt locks, and b) installing smoke
   detectors and fire extinguishers.

  12. What should I do after I read a book?

   After some reading, then the next thing is some experience. Go to
   K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
   apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
   pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works. K-Mart carries a clone of
   the Kwikset deadbolt which is made to be very easy to take apart.
   (Key-in-knob locksets are both more expensive and harder to take
   apart.)

   You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
   stack of pins. This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
   provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench. Then
   put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
   picked and the plug rotates minutely - so little that it is felt
   rather than seen. Then when the second one is picked that will let the
   plug move, unlocking the lock. Keep on adding stacks. Try picking with
   the curved finger (or feeler) pick, and also raking.

   There are also many people on the net who are willing to help in
   various areas. Posting a question on alt.locksmithing can help find
   someone. One person who is willing to offer free advice about old
   doors and door locks is Dr. Dorlock ([e-mail]) who tells us,
   "My only interest is saving old doors from "butchery" by professionals
   who do not know new solutions to old problems." Write him or check his
   web page: http://web2.airmail.net/keyl/drd.html (Don't write to him
   about lockpicking.)

  13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?

   There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
   locks and locksmithing. One, of course, is to subscribe to a
   locksmithing magazine. Some years ago I compared the National
   Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
   better on technical info. Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
   perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
   *somebody*!). Also read The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 4th
   ed. by Bill Phillips which was mentioned above.

   Lock companies are starting to use the Internet to distribute
   information. One example is [41]Medeco which is starting to develop a
   Web site. At this time they only have a questionaire about what type
   of information you would like to see on their Web site. [42]Schlage
   also has a Web site with a lot of information.

   But all this reading can help only so much, so you have to continue
   buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
   everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them. Buy
   some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys to fit
   (assuming you don't have a key machine yet) - filing may take a few
   minutes, but it does work. Maybe buy a re-keying kit (kit of different
   size pins, with a plug follower) and do some re-keying for your family
   or friends (the same size pins fit, I think, the familiar Kwikset and
   Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that their deadbolts can be opened with
   their normal front door key. (Hint - when disassembling a lock you may
   want to do it inside a transparent plastic bag. Then the small pieces
   and springs will be trapped and won't go flying across the room,
   leaving you with a sad look on your face.) (A follower is used to push
   the plug out, when the pins are at the shear line, therefore keeping
   the top pins and springs in place. Then the rekeyed plug is used to
   push out the follower, again keeping the top pins and springs in
   place. Similarly the follower can be used when loading new springs and
   top pins, keeping the loaded ones in place.)

   Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole saw plus template - I think
   that Black and Decker makes a good one, available at better building
   supply places) and put in a few deadbolts for your family and friends
   - charging them only for the materials plus a couple of bucks towards
   the installation kit - and re-key the deadbolt for them, too.

   Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
   picking. Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog? If not, give a
   call to a local supplier, or perhaps to Kenco of Omaha, Nebraska (they
   have an 800 number) and get their catalog - they sell lots of goodies
   including most everything I've been discussing. Help people at work
   who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets. Desks
   usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
   pin tumbler locks. Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
   pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
   also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler between the
   side of the sliding drawer and the cabinet body - carefully inspect
   some working cabinets to see what I'm talking about.

  13a. How do I learn the locksmithing trade?

   Joe Kesselman posted this advice:

     The mail-order questions will teach you the very basics -- but
     that's just a starting point. Their main value is in teaching you
     what questions to ask and some terminology so you can go on to
     learn more from other sources. You _can_ get started this way, but
     it takes determination and considerable additional effort. As with
     any trade, there's a lot of detail to learn and skills that come
     only with practice.

     If you're planning to apprentice to an established locksmith (not
     at all a bad idea) you might want to start by asking around and
     determining whether the folks in your area would be more likely to
     give you a chance after you've taken one of these courses. Some
     consider the course a helpful bootstrap, some don't. In my area,
     shops seem to be looking for folks who are willing to take on the
     automotive work so the principals can spend their time doing more
     interesting (and lucrative) stuff, and I'm not convinced the
     learn-at-home classes teach much that's useful about this corner of
     the field.

   Joe also points out that locksmithing associations, shows and journals
   are valuable sources of continuing education.
   Jay Hennigan added:

     ... However, the best way to really learn the trade is by working
     in a real lock shop for a period of time. There are "tricks of the
     trade" that can only be learned in such an environment, and this
     trade tends to be more secretive than most, due to the (IMHO
     misguided) belief in "security through obscurity".


   There is a general feeling that most of the correspondence courses
   give limited and dated information which isn't sufficient to become a
   locksmith, and that taking such a course may not even be an advantage
   in getting a job in a real lock shop. However there are some courses
   (both residential and correspondence) which have better reputations.
   One such school is:
   Lockmasters
   5058 Danville Rd.
   Nicholasville, KY 40356
   [phone]

  13b. How do I learn more about Master Keying?

   Here are some references:
   The Manual of Master Keying, by G.L. Finch available from The National
   Locksmith
   Gerry Finch is highly regarded as a technical writer on locksmithing.
   He may still sell his books direct: P.O. Box 4009, Redondo Beach CA
   90278
   Fundamentals of Master Keying, by Jerome Andrews available from ALOA
   Master Keying by the Numbers, by Billy Edwards available from Security
   Resources

  14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?

   Hobbit has written an excellent discussion on workings of Simplex
   locks. Hobbit left FTP Software and his FTP archive is currently
   unavailable. However we have [43]a copy available.

  15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master Lock?

   Not as far as anyone knows. You can buy code books with which will
   tell you the combination for a given serial number, but these are big
   somewhat expensive books that list (nearly) every lock.

   However, John F. Bousquet <[e-mail]>writes:

     There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book.
     From the serial number you determine which of several progressions
     were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the
     table to divide into the serial number and a remainder is found.
     This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is
     manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possibilities. I
     bought one of these 20 page pocket Try out combination finders and
     never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook
     computer.

  16. Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though manipulation?

   Recently a method of finding the combination of a Master Lock has been
   presented on alt.locksmithing. It seems there is a formula that
   relates the numbers in a combination to each other. The first and last
   digit of any combination will both have the same remainder when
   divided by 4, and the second digit's remainder when divided by 4 will
   be - or + 2 from the first and third's remainder. For example, if you
   knew the last digit of the combination was 5, the first digit could be
   any digit that had a remainder of 1 when divided by 4 and the second
   number any digit with a remainder of 3 when divided by 4. This means
   given one number in the combination, there are only ten numbers that
   can be in each of the other two positions, and thus only 100 possible
   combinations given one number in the combination.

   And it turns out there is an easy way to find the last digit of the
   combination. On older Master Locks, ones where the arrow at the top is
   raised, simply pull on the shackle and turn the dial until it catches,
   that's the third number in the combination. On news locks with the
   recessed arrow, there are twelve places the dial will catch if you
   turn it while pulling on the shackle. Seven of these will catch
   between two numbers, ignore these, and find the the five that catch on
   a number. Four of these will end in the same digit, i.e, 1, 11, 21,
   and 31, the fifth end with a different digit, and the is the third
   number in the combination.

   This means that given the knowledge, time, and patience, anyone can
   find the combination and open your lock. But then so can anyone with a
   pair of bolt cutters, a hacksaw, or maybe even a hammer. These are
   three (US) dollar locks. They have many useful applications, but they
   are not high security locks. Plan your usage accordingly.

   _PLEASE_ don't post a question on alt.locksmithing giving a serial
   number and asking for the combination for that lock. Yes - there are
   books relating the two - but very few people will take you at your
   word that it is your own lock. Instead the most likely result is the
   start of a flame war!

  17. What is the "shear line"?

   Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body or
   cylinder) of metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this
   hole is horizontal. It is filled with a "plug" which is the part which
   turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of the plug
   actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the plug with the key. There are
   some small vertical holes drilled in both the plug and the fixed block
   so they match up - and they are in a straight line which is the same
   line as the key. Each hole (pin chamber) is filled with (at least) two
   pins (small cylindrical pieces of metal - except that the portion of
   the bottom pin which touches the key is pointed) but the pins are of
   varying length, and there is a spring at the top of the chamber so
   that the pins are pushed away by the spring. The bottom pin is short
   enough so that it will be pushed completely down within the plug and
   the top pin (imagining right now there are just two pins - extra ones
   are only used for master keying) goes from inside the top block to
   inside the plug. Now the plug can't turn, because in each pin chamber
   there will be a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line where the pin
   chamber would "shear" apart when the plug turned.

   You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are made to
   "complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so that all of
   the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line" between the
   plug and the fixed block part of the lock. Then the key can turn the
   plug around its axis and actuate whatever internal mechanisms are
   inside.

  18. What is "impressioning"?

   Impressioning is a technique for opening a lock by making a key out of
   a key blank for the lock. The blank is filed to fit; the place and
   amount of filing depends upon small marks left on the key blank by the
   pin tumblers. The procedure starts with smoothing the key blank with
   fine abrasive paper or a very fine file to remove any marks or
   scratches and to leave a surface which will show the marks. The key
   blank is then inserted into the lock and the blank twisted from side
   to side and rocked up and down. The blank is removed and inspected for
   marks and a shallow cut made with a file on the mark closest to the
   tip of the blank, or on the most prominent mark. (There are several
   systems for determining which mark should be cut and for the correct
   way to twist and rock.)

   Repeat this for the same position until the tumbler doesn't leave any
   mark on the blank and then move to the next pin. When the last cut is
   made the lock should open with the newly cut key - assuming that the
   interpretation of the marks and the cutting has been done right.

   The advantage of impressioning for opening a lock is that it creates a
   key for that lock. But the process is slow and requires a fair amount
   of skill. With expert skill levels, the process is considerably
   faster. There are a number of special pliers made to hold the blank
   and make it easier to give the proper twist with rocking that will
   mark the blank. The marks on the blank are difficult to see and you
   must start with a blank that fits the lock. (Or several blanks, as
   this doesn't always work the first time.) Impressioning may not be as
   quick and easy as picking the lock. Picking a lock often leaves
   tell-tale scratches on the tumblers and plug that won't happen with
   impressioning.

   A manual on impressioning by Mark Wanlass is available in the ftp
   archives of indra.com -
   ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/impressioning The web
   version, converted by Samuel Weiler ([e-mail]), is
   available at:
   http://www.cs.swarthmore.edu/~weiler/locks/impressioning.html

  19. What is a code? What is a codebook?

   Ever see a lock on a desk, filling cabinet, or a key with a number
   stamped on it like FR332, 2H5212, or 61624? Those are called codes.
   They tell locksmiths exactly how to cut a key to fit the lock. There
   are three types of codes. There are direct digit codes. Each digit
   corresponds to each cut on the key, the value of each digit tell how
   deep to make the cut. Schlage prints the code for the key directly on
   the key. These codes are usually long, each pin needs its own digit.

   The second type in which each digit does not directly correspond to
   the depth, but there is a pattern between the code and the key. Often
   mathematical tricks are used (for example you must subtract 435 from
   the code, then cut the key).

   The last type require a locksmith to have a codebook. There is no
   pattern to the cuts on the keys. The Reed Codebooks are one of the
   most common. There are 12 general volumes (cars, cabinet, suit cases,
   door locks) and 5 padlock volumes. Each volume is about 600 pages
   long. Several manufactures now selling computer programs that contain
   all this information. The software is often copy-protected.
   Here's information on several products - all have demo disks. Note
   that features differ, and so different programs may appeal to
   different users.
     * Blackhawk Products: DOS version $399, Windows version $479,
       copy-protected by use of a hardware key.
     * HPC: DOS version possibly being phased out; Windows version
       recently introduced. Suggested list price $695. Disk-based copy
       protection on the DOS version. (Windows version - ?)
     * Locksmith Ledger: DOS version a little under $699.95, Windows
       version promised in the "near" future. No copy protection.
     * Treskat: DOS version only, $679. Disk-based copy protection.


  20. How do I open a car door with a Slim Jim?

   Besides picking the lock, one can open a car door with a wire coat
   hanger. Open the coat hanger by unbending the wire, leaving a small
   loop at one end. Insert the looped end of the wire hanger between the
   rubber weather stripping and a side window. Hook the looped end of the
   wire around the button of the door lock and pull it up to the open
   position. Many lock buttons are without a lip, an anti-theft measure,
   so that the wire coat hanger slides off without lifting it. One can
   also try to snag the door handle and pull it open.

   The Slim Jim, a thin strip of metal with a notch cut at the bottom
   side, slides down the passenger window into the door. The notch tries
   to catch a rod running inside the door that connects the lock and the
   lock buttons. Pulling on this rod pops the lock into the open
   position. Many modern cars have the rod shielded from this access.
   Most cars today have many wires running through the doors to control
   such things as power windows, power locks, heated side view mirrors,
   lighted key ways, and burglar alarms. The Slim Jim can snag one of
   these, or a mechanical part and cause damage. Most locksmiths advise
   against using a Slim Jim except on old cars. The pros often use
   wedges, lights and manuals of parts locations to avoid damage and
   increase their success rate.

  21. What is a jiggler key?

   A thin piece of metal cut in the general shape of a key, the jiggler
   slips into the keyway of many locks and most car locks. The jigglers
   in the set come with a variety of general cuts that vaguely resemble
   cuts on keys. A jiggler is slipped into the lock and moved around,
   much as using a rake type pick, until the lock opens. If one jiggler
   does not work then the next one in the set is tried. Probability of
   success depends on the skill of the user and on luck.

  22. Is there an ethical dimension to locksmithing?

   Yes. Locksmithing is an old craft, and there is a strong tradition of
   ehtical responsibility. A trainee (apprentice) learned about locks and
   security, and was supposed to have the personal integrity to avoid
   abusing that knowledge. This "do no harm" concept has been
   incorporated into the 'hacker ethic' which is found at MIT (in the
   "hacking community") and elsewhere.

  23. I have a safe without the combination - how do I open it?

   Either throw the safe away, or pay a safe expert to open it, or
   perhaps work out a trade with the safeman: he opens it, you get the
   contents, and he gets the safe. Please try and use a tiny bit of
   common sense: if anyone could get a quick and easy way to open your
   safe by posting to alt.locksmithing, your safe wouldn't be worth a
   damn, would it?"

  24. How do I disassemble a Kwikset key-in-knob entry set?

   0) Open the door. (If you can't, call a locksmith!)
   1) Dismount outer knob from door (the screws are on the indoor side.)
   2) Depress spring retainer and remove spindle.
   3) Reach in through spindle opening and gently release spring.
   retainers by pushing towards center. This can be done -- VERY
   awkwardly -- with a pair of narrow screwdrivers. Or you can get a
   Kwikset Removal Tool (inexpensive), which is just a short piece of
   sheet steel of the correct width with a "U" chomped into the end. The
   points of the U engage the tips of the retainers and move them
   automagically. 4) Cylinder will pop out of knob. Rekey normally.
   5) When done, snap everything back together and reinstall.

   If you need more detail than that, you should probably leave this task
   to someone who has done it before, or at least get them to give you a
   hands-on lesson. The only part that isn't Trivially Obvious is the
   operation of the retainers, and the above should be sufficient info
   for you to figure that out.

  Other online locksmithing related resources:

     * [44]Graham Pulford's "Catalogue of High Security Locks"
       ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
     * [45]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks" Web page.
       http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
     * [46]"MIT Guide to Picking Locks" in Postscript.
       ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide
       .ps.Z
     * [47]Hobbit's Simplex lock description
     * [48]Steve Haehnichen's pick images
       ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
     * [49]Medeco High Security Locks, Inc.
     * [50]The Online Loompanics Catalog
       gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc
     * [51]Locksmiths on the Web - run by Colin Fester, CML, in Mandurah
       in Western Australia.
     * [52]The National Locksmith trade magazine.
     * [53]South Carolina Locksmith Association
     * [54]The Locksmith
     * [55]Gardall Safe Corporation
     * [56]California state law regulating locksmiths - select "Business
       and Professions Code" and put "locksmith" in the search box.
     * [57]Greater Philadelphia Locksmith Association
     * [58]Northwest Locksmith Association
     * [59]New York Association of In-house Locksmiths, Inc.
     * [60]Locksmith Publishing Corp. Locksmith Ledger, a trade magazine
     * [61]Various locksmithing information. Directory picking.tools has
       images of pages from Septon catalog.
     * [62]HPC, Inc.Designer and manufacturer of Locksmithing Equipment.
     * [63]Mas-Hamilton Group
     * [64]Orange County Security Consultants Security Industry Links

  Glossary:

   There is also a [65]Dictionary for Locksmiths being developed by the
   LIST Council which can be seen at the Greater Philadelphia Locksmith
   Association Web site.

   blank
          A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.

   core
          A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable core
          system.

   core key (sometimes control key)
          A key which is used to remove a core.

   cylinder
          The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and which
          contains the plug.

   cuts
          The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.

   follower (plug follower)
          This is a cylindrical object of the same outer diameter as the
          plug (there are various diameters, often about 1/2") which is
          used to push out or follow the plug when the plug is to be
          removed. This retains the top pins and springs in the lock
          body.

   key way
          (short answer) The slot into which the key is inserted.
          (long answer) Refers to (a) the size and shape of the
          (cross-section of the) key, and (b) the opening in the lock
          which is shaped to admit the key and to keep out most keys of
          different sizes and shapes. Whether the keyway can be patented
          by the lock manufacturer as a way to prevent others from
          manufacturing compatible key blanks and therefore to restrict
          access is open to dispute. Recent court cases make it doubtful
          that the simple design is patentable, but a keyway design which
          is involved in the patented method of operation of a lock may
          have patent protection.

   master key
          A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.

   pin tumblers
          The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by the
          key.

   pin chamber
          the tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.
          plug
          The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is rotated
          by the key.

   sidebar
          A lock part located at the 'side' of the plug and fitting into
          longitudinal grooves in both the plug and the lock body. This
          keeps the plug from turning until the sidebar is retracted into
          the plug. Retraction is blocked until the correct key (or
          picking) moves the pins or other tumblers to positions which
          cease to block the retraction or produce some other action
          allowing the retraction. A sidebar can add additional
          positioning beyond the usual "shear line" and so can make
          picking more difficult. A number of locks use a sidebar to
          increase security.

   wafer tumbler
          Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler locks.
          They behave somewhat similarly.

   warded lock
          A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering the
          key hole and turning.


  Appendix

   Here are some of the things collected about locations and
   availabilities (most are from alt.locksmithing). We do not endorse any
   of these, but feel that you can get information by reading. As of this
   writing Septon and Paolo are the only suppliers that will sell to
   overseas customers.

   Septon, Inc. P.O. Box 9, Malden-on-Hudson, NY 12453
   [phone] voice [phone] fax [phone] outside North
   America
   Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S.
   $100 minimum order on such sales.

   Call for Catalog.

   Steve Arnold's Gunroom (URL http://www.cyber-core.com/gunroom/) sells
   a variety of pick sets, pick guns, and a small number of books. They
   will handle foreign orders which are paid for by an international
   money order in US currency.
   Steve Arnold's Gun Room
   PO Box 68
   Dept. Net
   Dexter,OR 97431
   541 726-6360
   possible e-mail [e-mail]

   Paolo's On-Line (Paolo Sica who participates in alt.locksmithing
   [e-mail]) carries Code Books, lock picks, tools and various
   other non-locksmithing items.) URL: http://paolo.simplenet.com/

   Phoenix Systems Inc. P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439
   303-277-0305 [Survivalist Group, all though the "Shoot all the Commies
   for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]

   Call for Catalog.

   Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)
   - - ----------------------
   Title: Locksmithing
   Author: F.A. Steed
   LC Number: TS 520 S73 1982

   Title: All About Locks and Locksmithing
   Author: Max Alth
   LC Number: TS 520 A37 1972

   Title: Professional Locksmithing Techniques
   Author: Bill Phillips
   LC Number TS 520 P55 1991

   See Question 5 for some more book citations. A source of locksmithing
   and general security books is:
   IAHSSP Books
   P. O. Box 2044
   Erie, PA 16512-2044
   Ph: [phone]
   Their catalog is free; they stock lots of professional and
   hard-to-find material; will sell to overseas customers.

   You can buy books on many topics from (no credit cards)

   Loompanics Unlimited
   Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
   P.O. Box 1197
   Port Townsend, WA 98368

   When they say unusual, they mean it! Everything from igloo
   construction to techniques of execution. There is now a $5 charge for
   their catalog. As far as we know they do not have a phone or fax for
   orders.

   #52042 B & E: A TO Z - HOW TO GET IN ANYWHERE, ANYTIME (VHS TAPE) by
   Scott French, 1987. Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to get
   in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car. Price:
   $59.95

   #40031 INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION -OR- IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT by John
   Russell III (64pp, 1979). Written by a private detective for auto
   repossessors. All the standard methods of entering and starting
   locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95

   #52050 TECHNIQUES OF BURGLAR ALARM BYPASSING by Wayne B. Yeager
   (110pp, 1990). Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window Foil,
   Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs, Central
   Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95

   #52047 THE B & E BOOK - BURGLARY TECHNIQUES AND INVESTIGATION by Burt
   Rapp (149pp, 1989). This is an investigatory guide and practical
   manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary
   investigation and its follow-up. Price: $14.95

   #52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990).
   Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the
   Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching
   and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe
   Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price:
   $12.00

   #52052 HIGH SPEED ENTRY - INSTANT OPENING TECHNIQUES (VHS TAPE - 1Hr)
   1990. Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers,
   the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world,
   two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths,
   rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie"
   tools. A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95

   #52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp
   1981). The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite the
   claim). Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General Rules, How
   To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks, Lever
   Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock
   Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various
   Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms. Price: $14.95

   #52040 HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS (4 Volume set) by
   Eddie the Wire (31pp, 1980; 50pp 1981; 44pp, 1981; 55pp, 1986).
   Basically this set describes how to make all the tools mentioned the
   above book along with mass production techniques, carrying cases,
   using a PC to generate pick profiles, making "soft" break-ins, how to
   "case" a subdivision, and more. Price: $20.00

   #52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988.
   Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home
   workshop. Price: $29.95

   #52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990. The
   author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking
   championship (I guess that's good). Uses specially designed cutaway,
   see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working
   locks as they respond to picking techniques. Price: $59.95

   #52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989).
   Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and
   includes templates for making custom tools. Schematic diagrams for
   portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks. Tips on
   enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing
   practice lock boxes, and more. Price: $10.00

   #52045 CIA FIELD-EXPEDIENT KEY CASTING MANUAL (48pp, 1988). How to
   make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time.
   Price: $8.00

   #52043 HOW I STEAL CARS - A REPO MAN'S GUIDE TO CAR THIEVES' SECRETS
   (VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988. How to open and enter
   practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the
   key. Price: $49.95

   #52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp,
   1975). Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel
   keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary
   tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more. Price: $7.00

   Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
   3024 E. 35th
   Spokane, WA 99223
   509 448 8457.

   Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
   locksmithing equipment and books. If you need more info, jusk ask.
   (Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).

  Information for collectors.?

   Lock Museum of America
   130 Main St.
   Terryville, CT
   This museum also sponsors a lock collectors show.

   The Padlock Collector 6th edition 1996
   Franklin M. Arlall (isbn 0-914638-05-x)
   The Collector
   PO Box 253
   Claremont, CA 91711
   This book has descriptions of over 2800 locks.

  Credit & Thanks

   The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by
   [66][e-mail] [e-mail] (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and
   [e-mail] (Henry Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by
   [e-mail] (Scott Anguish). Edited by hes. Translated to
   English by [e-mail] (Elizabeth Lear). Send comments,
   criticisms, and compliments to "[e-mail]".

   The following have contributed to this FAQ:

    Scott Anguish <[e-mail]>
    J. James (Jim) Belonis II <[e-mail]>
    Stephen J Berch <[e-mail]>
    John F. Bousquet <[e-mail]>
    Chris Boyd <[e-mail]>
    Robert Bruce Findler <[e-mail]>
    Hobbit <hobbit@>(looking for current address);
    Marcus Jenkins <[e-mail]>
    Larry Margolis <[e-mail]>
    Andy McFadden <[e-mail]>
    William A Moyes <[e-mail]>
    Stan Schwarz <[e-mail]>
    Thomas E Zerucha <[e-mail]>
    Daniel Hagan <[e-mail]>
    Joe Kesselman <[e-mail]>
    Roger Weitzenkamp <[e-mail]>
    Jay Hennigan <[e-mail]>
    Billy B. Edwards Jr. <[e-mail]>
    <[e-mail]>

Thanks to:
          Indra's Net  --  Internet Access with an Attitude
             Email: [e-mail]  URL: http://www.indra.com
             Modem: [phone]  Voice: [phone]
for providing host facilities.

References

   1. news:alt.locksmithing
   2. news:alt.locksmithing
   3. news:alt.answers
   4. news:news.answers
   5. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q1
   6. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q2
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   8. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q4
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  23. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q16
  24. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q17
  25. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q18
  26. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q19
  27. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q20
  28. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q21
  29. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q22
  30. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q23
  31. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#q24
  32. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#online
  33. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#glossary
  34. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#appendix
  35. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#collect
  36. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/index.html#credit
  37. ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
  38. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
  39. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
  40. http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
  41. http://www.medeco.com/
  42. http://www.trope.com/schlage/index.html
  43. http://www.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hobbit.html
  44. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
  45. http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
  46. ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
  47. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/href=
  48. ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
  49. http://www.medeco.com/
  50. gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc
  51. http://mlkey.com.au/
  52. http://www.TheNationalLocksmith.com/
  53. http://members.aol.com/scribblerg/scla.htm
  54. http://www.thelocksmith.com/~carlock/thelocksmith.html
  55. http://http://www.gardall.com/
  56. http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/
  57. http://www.gpla.org/
  58. http://www.premier1.net/~nwlakey/
  59. http://www.locksmith.org/
  60. http://www.lpc.simon-net.com/map.html
  61. ftp://ftp://ftp.std.com/archives/alt.locksmithing/
  62. http://www.hpcworld.com/
  63. http://www.mas-hamilton.com/
  64. file://localhost/home/guest/hes/www.earthlink.net/~tonyadamo/index.html
  65. http://www.gpla.org/list.html
  66. http://www.indra.com/homepages/spike