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- Better take extra sets of clothing. Trade 'em to Indians for fresh
- vegetables, fish, or meat. It's well worth hiring an Indian guide at river
- crossings. Expect to pay them! They're sharp traders, not easily cheated.
- Did you read the Missouri Republican today? --Says some folk start for Oregon
- without carrying spare parts, not even an extra wagon axle. Must think they
- grow on trees! Hope they're lucky enough to find an abandoned wagon.
- Some folks seem to think that two oxen are enough to get them to Oregon! Two
- oxen can barely move a fully loaded wagon, and if one of them gets sick or
- dies, you won't be going anywhere. I wouldn't go overland with less than six.
- With the crowds of people waiting to get on the ferry, we could be stranded
- here for days! Hope there's enough graze for all those animals--not many
- people carry feed! I'd rather wait, though, than cross in a rickety wagon boat!
- Can't afford to take a ferry. We're making our wagon into a boat. We'll turn
- it over, caulk the bottom and sides with pitch, and use it to float our goods
- across. Have to swim the animals. Hope it doesn't rain--the river's high enough!
- Don't try to ford any river deeper than the wagon bed--about two and a half
- feet. You'll swamp your wagon and lose your supplies. You can caulk the
- wagon bed and float it--or be smart and hire me to take your wagon on my ferry!
- We've had enough! Pesky flies all day and mosquitoes all night! It's either
- baking sun or oceans of mud--and sometimes both. Worry over Indians
- attacking--haven't seen any yet, but still a worry.
- This prairie is mighty pretty with all the wild flowers and tall grasses. But
- there's too much of it! I miss not having a town nearby. I wonder how many
- days until I see a town--a town with real shops, a church, people...
- Be careful you don't push those animals too hard! Keep 'em moving but set them
- a fair pace. Can't keep driving 'em so fast or you'll end up with lame-footed
- animals. A lame ox is about as good to you as a dead one!
- The trails from the jumping off places --Independence, St. Joseph, Council
- Bluffs--come together at Fort Kearney. This new fort was built by the U.S.
- Army to protect those bound for California and Oregon.
- The Platte River valley forms a natural roadway from Fort Kearney to Fort
- Laramie. Travelers bound for California, Utah, and Oregon all take this road.
- Could be the easiest stretch of the whole trip. Should see antelope and plenty of buffalo.
- The game is still plentiful along here, but gettin' harder to find. With so
- many overlanders, I don't expect it to last more'n a few years. Folks shoot
- the game for sport, take a small piece, and let the rest rot in the sun.
- I hear terrible stories about wagon parties running out of food before Oregon
- --the whole party starving to death. We must check our supplies often;
- we might not get there as soon as we think. Always plan for the worst, I say.
- Chimney Rock by moonlight is awfully sublime. Many Indians came to our wagon
- with fish to exchange for clothing. We bought a number. They
- understand 'swap' and 'no swap.' Seem most anxious to get shirts and socks.
- About noon yesterday we came in sight of Chimney Rock looming up in the
- distance like the lofty tower of some town. We did not tire gazing on it. It
- was about 20 miles from us, and stayed in sight 'til we reached it today.
- The Pawnee are the mortal enemies of the Sioux. I would not hesitate to kill
- any Pawnee I met. But I have never killed a white man. All I ask from the
- white man is to leave me alone, and to leave my buffalo alone.
- Be warned, stranger. Don't dig a water hole! Drink only river water. Salty
- as the Platte River is--it's better than the cholera. We buried my husband
- last week. Could use some help with this harness, if you can spare the time.
- These greenhorns heading across the Rockies know nothing about surviving in
- the mountains. It gets awful cold up there, even in summer. Many a traveler
- crossing the mountains too late in the year has gotten snowbound and died!
- I carved my name way up the side of Independence Rock, near the top. There
- are hundreds of names up there! The oldest ones were carved by mountain men
- and fur trappers --famous names like Fremont, Bonneville, and DeSmet!
- No butter or cheese or fresh fruit since Fort Laramie! Bless me, but I'd
- rather have my larder full of food back East than have our names carved on
- that rock! Well, tis a sight more cheery than all the graves we passed.
- Goodbye Platte River! Goodbye sand hills and white buffalo skulls! Now we
- climb the Sweetwater valley to cross the Continental Divide at South Pass.
- Once across the Rockies, we'll make a steep descent into the Green River valley.
- My family and I travel with 40 other families to the valley of the Great Salt
- Lake to seek religious freedom. Back east, Mormons are persecuted. In Utah,
- we'll join together to build a new community, changing desert into farm land.
- When the white man first crossed our lands their wagons were few. Now they
- crowd the trail in great numbers. The land is overgrazed with their many
- animals. Do any white men still live in the East? My people talk of moving.
- My father is very sick and we are resting here until he gets better. We have
- been pushing too hard and our health has suffered. When my father is able to
- travel again, we will go at a slower pace.
- One child drowned in a swollen creek east of Fort Laramie. My husband died of
- typhoid near Independence Rock. Now I travel alone with my five children.
- The eldest, Caleb, is eleven. I fear he'll be a man before we reach Oregon.
- This fort was built by Jim Bridger. Jim was a mountain man before he put in
- this blacksmith shop and small store to supply the overlanders. Does a big
- trade in horses, Jim and his partner, Vasquez.
- We should've taken the Sublette Cutoff! Not enough at this fort worth the
- time it took to get here. And the outrageous prices! Food's not fit to eat,
- much less pay for. Some folks'd sell the clothes off our backs if we'd let them!
- When wagons first started coming through here, we did not mind. We even found
- it good to trade game and fish with the travelers and help them cross the
- rivers. Now there are too many white men and too little land for grazing.
- Five dollars to ferry us over the Green River? Those ferrymen'll make a
- hundred dollars before breakfast! We'll keep down river until we find a place
- to ford our wagon and animals. What little money we have left, we'll keep!
- My family didn't buy enough food in Independence. We have been eating very
- small rations since Fort Laramie. Because of that our health is poor. My
- sister has mountain fever, so we're stopped here for a while.
- I've heard it said that there are many cutoffs to take to shorten the journey
- --that by taking all the shortcuts, you can save many days on the trail. And
- why not? Saving time and provisions is worth the risk!
- My, the Soda Springs are so pretty! Seem to spout at regular intervals. Felt
- good to just rest and not be jostled in the wagon all day. When I get to
- Oregon, I'll have a soft feather bed and never sleep in a wagon again!
- My job every day is to find wood for the cook fire. Sometimes it's very hard
- to find enough, so I store extra pieces in a box under the wagon. On the
- prairie I gathered buffalo chips to burn when there wasn't any wood.
- Well, friend, this is where we part. I'm bound for California with an
- imposing desert to cross. And you--you've got the Snake River to cross,
- which I hear is no picnic! Write us, you or the Missus, just as soon as you reach Oregon!
- Hear there's mountain sheep around here. Enough water too, but hardly a stick
- of wood. Thank heaven for Fort Hall! But I'm real sorry to be saying goodbye
- to cousin Miles and all the folks heading for California.
- Fort Hall is a busy fort! The wide stretches of meadow grass here are just
- what our tired animals need. As for me, I'll fix up the wagon leaks.
- Amanda's real anxious to wash all the clothes and linens in one of those clear streams.
- It says right here in the Shively guidebook: "You must hire an Indian to pilot
- you at the crossings of the Snake river, it being dangerous if not perfectly
- understood." But my husband insists on crossing without a guide!
- Down there between those steep lava gorges, twisting and writhing,
- is the Snake River. So much water--and so hard to get to!
- We've got many miles of desert before Oregon, so be sure to fill your water kegs at the crossing!
- See that wild river? That's the Snake. Many a craft's been swamped in her
- foaming rapids. Her waters travel all the way to Oregon! We'll be crossing
- her soon, and then again after Fort Boise. Take care at the crossing!
- You'll not get yer wagon over them Blue Mountains, mister. Leave it! Cross
- yer goods over with pack animals. Get yerself a couple of good mules. Pieces
- of wagons litter the trail--left by them folks who don't heed good advice!
- At every fort along the trail, prices have been higher than at the previous
- fort! This is outrageous! They're taking advantage of us! If I had the
- chance to do it again, I'd buy more supplies in Independence.
- Every night, even though I ache from the day's toils, my head is filled with
- dreams of the rich farm land of the Willamette Valley. I will build myself a
- fine, handsome homestead--and I'm certain I'll be rich within five years.
- Since crossing the Snake at Fort Boise, it's been just mountains and desert.
- Dust deeper each day--six inches at times. No tracks, just clouds of dust.
- Many cattle choked on the dust after swimming the river, then bled and died.
- We followed the edge of the desert from Fort Boise to the forbidding wall of
- the Blue Mountains. The hills were dreadful steep! Locking both wheels and
- coming down slow, we got down safe. Poor animals! No grass or water for days.
- This valley of the Grande Ronde is the most beautiful sight I've seen in
- months. Water and graze in abundance! And if this valley is so fine, the
- Willamette must be twice as fine! We'll be sittin' pretty in our new homestead!
- I've traveled in fear of Indians since our journey began. As of yet we've
- seen few. Those we met helped us cross rivers or sold us vegetables. Still I
- fear. I've read grave markers and heard stories of killings in these mountains.
- My cousin Catherine was one of six children orphaned and left at Whitman's
- Mission. Lived with them for three years--until the massacre last November.
- She has survived snakebites, stampedes, falls, fights--not to mention a massacre.
- You ask about the Whitman massacre. I ask you why Doctor Whitman's medicine
- did not cure my people's children? Many caught the measles from the
- strangers. Why did the medicine poison our children and cure the children of white people?
- These last hundred miles to the Willamette Valley are the roughest--either
- rafting down the swift and turbulent Columbia River or driving your wagon over
- the steep Cascade Mountains. Hire an Indian guide if you take the river.
- My cousin Lydia engaged passage down the Columbia with Indians--a canoe with
- 17 people and luggage! The wind blew so heavy they had to lay by. Near dark,
- high waves came up over their heads! Finally, they made it to shore safely.
- I collect the tolls for the Barlow Road--a bargain at twice the price!
- Until last year the overlander had no choice--everyone floated the
- Columbia. Now with Mr. Barlow's new road, you can drive your wagon right into Oregon City!
- We tried floating our wagon across the Kansas when the river was high. The
- wagon overturned in the middle of the river and we lost everything we had.
- But we're not giving up! We'll be back and try again.
- Check your supplies often. If you are near to running out of essentials, you
- can usually buy more at the forts. If you have no money, you might be able to
- trade with other travelers for what you need. Don't wait until too late!
- My brother went overland to Oregon last year. He wrote and said that he spent
- all his money in Independence. He had no money left for buying supplies along
- the way, for paying ferries and tolls, or for hiring Indian guides.
-