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- From: SiKing <siking@myrealbox.com>
- Newsgroups: rec.models.rc.land,uk.rec.models.radio-control.land,rec.answers,news.answers
- Subject: [rec.models.rc.land] Newbie Guide and FAQ
- Supersedes: <3DC3E375.25D55802@myrealbox.com>
- Followup-To: rec.models.rc.land,uk.rec.models.radio-control.land
- Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:17:20 -0500
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- Summary: Answers to some common questions and some suggestions for people wishing
- to join, or just starting out in, the remote controlled cars hobby. Contains
- information useful for beginners, as well as directions where to get additional
- information.
- X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.8 [en] (Win98; U)
- Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu rec.models.rc.land:190342 uk.rec.models.radio-control.land:6411 rec.answers:77403 news.answers:242424
-
- Archive-Name: models/rc-cars/newbie-guide
- Posting-Frequency: monthly
- Last-Modified: 8 June, 2002
- Disclaimer: Approval for *.answers is based on form, not content.
-
- The most recent version of this FAQ list is posted by the author monthly to the
- Usenet groups <news:rec.models.rc.land>, <news:uk.rec.models.radio-control.land>,
- <news:rec.answers>, and <news:news.answers>.
-
- Several servers around the World Wide Web, NONE of which are maintained by this
- author, store a copy of this document. It can be obtained by anonymous ftp from
- <ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/faqs/models/rc-cars/newbie-guide>; or by e-mail:
- <mailto:mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu>, the body of the mail must contain the command
- "send /pub/faqs/models/rc-cars/newbie-guide" without the quotes. A relatively
- decent HTMLized version of this document can be found at
- <http://www.faqs.org/faqs/models/rc-cars/newbie-guide/preamble.html>. For a
- complete list of world wide mirrors, see the document "Introduction to the
- *.answers newsgroups", which is posted frequently to <news:news.answers>; or
- retrieve it through e-mail by sending <mailto:mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu>, with the
- command "send /pub/faqs/news-answers/introduction" without the quotes.
-
- I am seriously lacking in time to give this document (and the hobby) the attention
- it deserves. If anyone would be interested in taking over the maintenance of this,
- please contact the author <mailto:siking@myrealbox.com>.
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: TABLE OF CONTENTS
-
- 0. Preliminaries and Introductions
- 0.1. What is this?
- 0.2. What other FAQs are there?
- 0.3. What will you NOT find here?
- 0.4. Usenet
- 0.4.1. NETiquette
- 0.4.2. Posting binary attachments
- 0.4.3. Posting sales / auctions
- 1. What car should I get first?
- 2. What radio should I get first?
- 3. What motor should I get first?
- 4. What other stuff will I need?
- 5. What else do I need to know?
- 5.1. Ready to Run - RTR
- 5.2. The controlling bodies of R/C racing
- 6. What about batteries?
- 6.1. Battery care
- 7. What are the different types of cars?
- 8. What are the different kinds of radios?
- 8.1. What is all this stuff on the radio?
- 8.2. Radio interference
- 8.3. Using a 4-channel radio with a car
- 8.4. Too much Information on radios
- 9. What about motors and stuff?
- 9.1. How to speed up electric motors?
- 9.2. Brushless motors
- 9.3. Speed controllers
- 9.4. Gear ratios
- 10. Painting
- 11. Some useful links
- 12. Links to links to manufacturers and stores
- 13. Legal frequency - channel tables
- 14. Legal jargon
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 0. Preliminaries and Introductions
-
- I am seriously lacking in time to give this document (and the hobby) the attention
- it deserves. If anyone would be interested in taking over the maintenance of this,
- please contact the author <mailto:siking@myrealbox.com>.
- 0.1. What is this?
-
- Answers to some common questions and some suggestions for people wishing to join,
- or just starting out in, the remote controlled (R/C) cars hobby. Contains
- information useful for beginners, as well as directions where to get additional
- information.
-
- It is an attempt at collecting / organizing / sharing some of the information (dare
- I say 'wisdom'?) that I have managed to acquire since I got involved in this hobby
- sometime in 1998. At the time I started posting this I had built two cars, raced
- three, and won zero races. This, by every definition possible, does NOT make me an
- expert in the field, but I would like to think of my self as a successful 'graduate
- from a newbie'.
-
- 0.2. What other FAQs are there?
-
- First off, let me stress that in no way do I intend for this document to replace or
- supercede any other FAQ on this or similar subject found anywhere else. Different
- people have different experiences / opinions, and those are generally relayed
- through their FAQs. I recommend that you have a look at all that you can find, in
- order to gain as much practical information as possible.
- Further, almost every single manufacturer that has a web site has some type of FAQ
- or some variant of "Getting Started in R/C" type of document; those are just way
- too numerous to list, and, unlike me, they have an actual advertising budget.
- Therefore I will not list any of those here - see the section "Links to links to
- manufacturers and stores", below.
- There are, however, a few FAQs maintained by individuals, such as myself, whom I
- would consider more 'my competition'; although AFAIK mine is the only one posted to
- Usenet. Here are the ones I have been able to find so far:
- FAQ for R/C electric off-road racing
- <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2314/rc-faq.html>
- The rec.models.rc.land Frequently Asked Questions archive
- <http://burnt-kat.streetracing.org/rcfaq.html>
-
- 0.3. What will you NOT find here?
-
- The author of this document has never touched a gas R/C car. This is strictly a
- personal choice (actually my wife's), and should not in any way indicate that one
- is better over the other! Therefore the rest of the discussion here will be mostly
- limited to electric cars. In any case, I personally would never recommend that a
- newcomer to this hobby get a gas car anyway, so the topic would actually be outside
- of the scope of this document.
- If anyone is interested in making up a "Nitro Guide and FAQ", feel free to contact
- me and I will try to help out as much as I can, including with submissions to
- *.answers groups.
-
- I do not want to have specific car reviews and comparisons. Further, I do not
- intend to address questions of the type 'car A vs. car B, which is better?' A
- better question would perhaps be 'car A vs. car B, which is more popular?', because
- it is often a popularity contest! But the answer to this you will not find here
- either, since within a year BOTH car A and car B will be replaced by something new
- and more popular.
- See "What car should I get first?", below, where to get this information.
-
- 0.4. Usenet
-
- When I got involved in this hobby, one of the first places that I went to was the
- Usenet. Surely, no surprise, there is a newsgroup dedicated to this hobby. If your
- computer is set up properly, then you should be able to go to the URL
- <news:rec.models.rc.land> and just start reading. Alternatively, you could go to
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?group=rec.models.rc.land>; this place has an
- archive of older postings, much older than what your newserver probably carries, so
- it is an excellent resource for searching past information.
- If you got this document through means other than Usenet, and want to find out more
- about it, a good place to start is <http://www.geocities.com/nnqweb/>.
-
- There are several R/C Usenet groups of similar interest; the descriptions are not
- mine, they are taken directly from the group's charter (bad formatting and spelling
- error included):
- <news:rec.models.rc.air> RC controlled air models.
- <news:rec.models.rc.helicopter> Model helicopter flying, construction, and tips.
- <news:rec.models.rc.land> RC controlled land models.
- <news:rec.models.rc.misc> RC controlled miscellaneous items.
- <news:rec.models.rc.soaring> Building and flying radio controlled gliders.
- <news:rec.models.rc.water> RC controlled water models.
- <news:alt.binaries.radio-control> Newsgroup for radio contol related binaries
- (software and pictures).
- Most countries have a Usenet hierarchy of their own. There might be a group
- specifically for local discussions. For example, United Kingdom has the following
- groups:
- <news:uk.rec.models.radio-control.air> UK Radio Control Aero Modelling
- <news:uk.rec.models.radio-control.land> UK Radio Control Cars, Buggies, Trucks
-
- Before you start posting to any of these groups, there are some things you should
- be aware of:
-
- 0.4.1. NETiquette
- There are certain assumed rules when posting to Usenet. If you break these rules,
- you will be mercilessly ostracized by the rest of the group. If you are not
- familiar with this 'code of conduct' there are numerous articles on the subject.
- One good one is at <http://www.lynnsland.com/Netiquette/>; a second source of
- numerous articles is at <http://www.faqs.org/faqs/usenet/>. If you still have
- questions or doubts, then the appropriate place to ask is in
- <news:news.newusers.questions>.
- The denizens of rmrl are willing to tolerate off-topic posts, as long as they are
- marked with "[OT]" in the Subject. Every so often someone suggests (mostly as a
- joke) starting a rec.models.rc.land.ot group. If you don't like them, create a
- filter; if you do post them, please mark them in the Subject!
- The sad truth is that a lot of people have problems expressing themselves through
- the written word; I myself am certainly no expert. Further, a lot of people easily
- take offence. Please keep both of these points in mind when you are reading or
- writing posts, and take everything with a 'grain of salt'.
- There are a lot of acronyms that are used throughout the Internet, especially on
- Usenet. Try here for a little help: <http://www.gaarde.org/acronyms/>.
-
- 0.4.2. Posting binary attachments
- No! I will attempt to justify this, but make no mistake, the answer is a definite
- no!
- Binary attachments are normally restricted to the Usenet hierarchy alt.binary.*.
- This is done so that people who do not wish to receive binary attachments can
- easily avoid them. These people often include system administrators with limited
- diskspace, and users with a slow Internet connection such as a dial up modem. If
- people post binary attachments in a non-binary group, they will quickly get
- alienated by that group. If a lot of people post binary attachments to a non-binary
- group, then system administrators will simply stop carrying that group and the
- group will die.
- If you insist on distributing binaries, the correct procedure is to find diskspace
- someplace on the Internet - there are plenty of sites that offer this sort of a
- service for free - and then post a link with an appropriate description to rmrl.
- Alternatively, you could post the binary to <news:alt.binaries.radio-control>; just
- keep in mind that most servers set a very low expiration time for all binary
- groups, usually on the magnitude of a few days. This means that very few people
- will get to see your post. A private archive of binary postings can be found at
- <http://ripperd2.dhs.org/alt.binaries.radio-control/>.
- HTML messages (almost) fall in the same category, especially if you insert pictures
- into your messages. Some systems automatically imbed pictures into the signature
- for each post! I know that the actual method of transmitting the pictures in this
- case is different from attaching binaries to a message, and I do not want to
- discuss that here. Let's just say that a significant portion of Usenet considers
- HTML messages on Usenet impolite and ignorant.
-
- 0.4.3. Posting sales / auctions
- This is one of those gray areas. If you cross-post an auction or a sale to the
- entire rmr* hierarchy, then most people will probably consider that spam and will
- get upset at you. If you must post a sale or an auction, then post only to one or
- two relevant groups, and make sure that in the subject of your message you include
- an unmistakable description of what the message is. For example, the subject "rad
- buggy" would not be acceptable, but "[eBay] XXX buggy with extras" is fine. You
- could also use the acronyms "[FA]" to indicate 'for auction' and "[FS]" to indicate
- 'for sale'; please do not confuse these two. People also use "[WTB]" for 'Want To
- Buy'. Not everyone is interested in buying stuff, and yes, people will use these
- indicators to make up filters. Please respect that!
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 1. What car should I get first?
-
- There are several questions that most beginners will have, that are somewhat
- difficult to answer. This is usually the first one! In order to give any kind of a
- meaningful answer, several things must be known first. These include, but are not
- limited to:
- - how much money do you have / want to spend?
- - where do you mostly intend to drive this car (street / off-road)?
- - do you intend to race in sponsored races?
- - do you want to build your car or not (kit / RTR)?
- - do you want a car to 'learn on and graduate from', or a car that you will 'grow
- into'?
- There are numerous answers to each of these points, and, therefore, there are
- numerous answers to this question.
-
- Still, in an attempt to give some sort of an answer, I can offer a personal
- experience: the car that I myself bought first and some of the reasons for my
- decision. Personally, I did not want to spend a lot of money, but I normally do try
- to balance quality and quantity. I knew that I was mostly going to race my car in
- my parking lot, which is quite beaten up, but I also wanted to enter into some of
- the local races, most of which were clean parking lot races. I wanted something
- that is going to be fairly easy to maintain and build, and also get spare parts
- for. Initially I was considering the HPI RS4 Pro2. But I thought this kit is
- somewhat expensive as it needed a lot of additional stuff; also this car would have
- problems with clearance on my broken up parking lot. I eventually ended up with the
- HPI RS4 Rally. I had every intention of learning on this car, and then moving up to
- something 'hot'. Eventually my interests changed though, and now I drive mostly
- off-road cars. Looking back on it now, I still feel this was a good decision on my
- part. The Pro2 would have been a bad purchase for me. I have to stress the "for me"
- part in that last sentence; I know a whole bunch of people who own the Pro2 and are
- very happy with it.
-
- If you are still unsure, which you probably are, then read the rest of this
- document, read some magazines, get informed. Here are several places that you want
- to check:
- - Past posts to rmrl
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?as_ugroup=rec.models.rc.land&as_usubject=review>.
- - Post a message yourself to the group, get the opinions of several people. With
- your inquiry, try to be as specific as possible with what you want.
- - Go to your local hobby store (LHS) and a local track (find one from your LHS),
- and talk to people there. See if someone will let you drive their car (they
- probably will not, but you can still ask).
- - Check the "Radio Control Car Action" magazine <http://www.rccaraction.com/>;
- check for back issues at your local library or from your friends online.
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 2. What radio should I get first?
-
- To initially get into the hobby, you will probably have to purchase everything
- since you are starting from nothing. This fact will probably limit your budget.
- Many stores offer some sort of a combo deal, which contains a whole bunch (or all)
- of the stuff you will need, as a package deal. This is normally, due to financial
- constraints, the best option for you. In all likelihood, the radio that comes with
- a combo will be a low end, 2-channel, AM, pistol grip radio. The radio will have
- very few features, which is probably good, as it will not overwhelm a new user. The
- minimum features that you should look for are 'throttle trim' and 'steering trim',
- which almost all radios today have. These two features will help with fine-tuning
- of the center point for throttle (car is standing still) and the center point for
- steering (car goes straight), respectively. For a more detailed description of
- radios, see below "What are the different kinds of radios?"
-
- One rule of thumb that I have heard and also like, is to match the quality of your
- radio to the quality of your car. In other words, do not blow 90% of your budget on
- the hottest car out there and then cheap out on an old used AM radio.
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 3. What motor should I get first?
-
- Fortunately there is a little more help on this one. Check any or all of these
- places:
- - As mentioned above, stores often offer package deals. If a package deal comes
- with a motor, it will often be matched fairly well for that car.
- - Once you decide on a car kit that you want, check the manual that comes with it.
- Stores often have a copy on hand, or you might be able to get a copy on the
- manufacturer's web page (see "Links to links to manufacturers and stores" below).
- The manufacturer will often recommend a motor for their kit.
- - If you intend to enter into sponsored races, a motor is usually one of the items
- that might be restricted - you are allowed only certain motors. Check with the
- organizer of the race.
- - If you did post to the newsgroup asking for a car recommendation, ask for a
- motor suggestion as well. Again, expect several (sometimes contradictory) answers.
-
- What you will end up with probably, is a some sort of a spec for a motor. See "What
- about motors and stuff?" below, for an explanation of what this spec means. Go to
- your LHS with this spec, and ask the salesperson to show you one of those.
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 4. What other stuff will I need?
-
- First you will need enough parts to build a complete car. As mentioned above, most
- (or all) of this is often available as a complete combo. In order to go from
- nothing, to a running car, you will need the following:
- - car chassis
- - car body (shell)
- - car motor
- - model car battery*
- - speed controller
- - steering servo
- - receiver
- - wheels (tires and rims)*
- - radio
- - radio batteries
- - battery charger
- - crystal set*
- *All the items that are marked with an asterisk, you will probably want to have
- multiples.
-
- To put everything together, that is to build the car, you will need tools. Looking
- around my own garage, here is what I have lying around:
- - assorted small screwdrivers
- - assorted small wrenches
- - tapered reamer
- - sharp (X-Acto) knife
- - scissors
- - needle-nose pliers
- - sandpaper
- - elastics
- - small wire ties
- - body (Lexan) paint
- - CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
- - thread lock
- - gear lubricant
- For a better (exact) list, again, consult the manual that comes with your specific
- car kit. Often car kits come with few basic tools, and then the manual will tell
- you what else you will need.
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 5. What else do I need to know?
-
- 5.1. Ready to Run - RTR
-
- There is a new trend increasing in popularity: "Ready to Run" or RTR, and "Almost
- Ready to Run" or ARR. These are essentially car kits that are completely or mostly
- pre-built right out of the box. These are especially popular with nitro cars, but
- electric RTR kits are also available. The price is often not that much higher
- compared to the non-RTR equivalent (sometime even lower), and spare parts usually
- have the same availability as the non-RTR counterpart. Again, check into everything
- before you commit to a purchase.
- 5.2. The controlling bodies of R/C racing
-
- There are several bodies that control 'professional R/C racing'. You only have to
- really worry about their rules if you are going to enter into a race that is
- sanctioned by one of these authorities. You will need to contact the organizer of
- the said race to find out if it is.
-
- IFMAR <http://www.ozemail.com.au/~ifmar/> - International Federation of Model Auto
- Racing. This is taken directly from their web site: "IFMAR's sole responsibility is
- to organize rules for World Championship events."
-
- EFRA <http://www.efra.se/> - European Federation of Radio operated model
- Automobiles. "...the European Federation of Radio Operated Model Automobiles (EFRA)
- exist to promote International links within the sport of Radio Control Model Car
- Racing."
-
- ROAR <http://www.roarracing.com/> - Remotely Operated Auto Racers. "ROAR is the
- official U.S./Canadian sanctioning body for racing R/C cars."
-
- NORRCA <http://www.norrca.com/> - National Organization for Racing Radio Control
- Autos. "The main purpose in forming NORRCA was to give tracks/clubs and racers much
- more than they were receiving from their existing sanctioning organization. NORRCA
- is here to help the tracks/clubs promote their existing facilities, develop their
- existing operations, give them direction on future endeavors and give the racer an
- organization that is truly built around the racers needs."
-
- BRCA <http://www.brca.org/> - British Radio Car Association. "It oversees all
- aspects of the sport, from setting construction rules to organising British
- championship events, to selecting the British team for International competitions."
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 6. What about batteries?
-
- The batteries used for car racing are made up of cells, which are individually
- little smaller than standard C size cells. A battery pack consists of 4 to 7 cells,
- most common are 6 cell packs. You can build your own pack, or buy an already
- assembled one. If you purchased your car kit as a combo deal, the battery pack that
- came with it is probably going to be a 6-cell 'stick pack' (the cells are assembled
- nose-to-tail three in a row, in two rows side by side, sealed with shrink-wrap).
- This type of pre-assembled battery pack is a good starting point for beginners.
- Racers often assemble their own packs into a 'saddle pack' configuration (three
- cells side-by-side, in two groups connected by an electrical wire), or side-by-side
- configuration (all the cells side-by-side). The important point to note is that
- some car kits (especially high-end performance ones) can only accept certain
- battery configurations. This is often done for performance reasons - to allow fast
- battery changes, or to have a particular weight distribution. Again, check the
- manual that comes with the car.
-
- An average battery pack will charge in about 15 to 30 minutes, and give you 5 to 15
- minutes of run time. For this reason people often get several packs. A good
- starting point is to get the same number of packs as the number of races you want
- to run in one day; this is especially important if you will run in sponsored races.
-
- The batteries are rated in mAh: milliAmpere-hours. This is a measure of how long
- the battery will last before it needs recharging. To get an estimate of run time,
- take the rating and divide it by 300 to get a VERY approximate estimate of run time
- in minutes; mileage WILL vary! Currently on the market you can get batteries that
- range anywhere from 1000mAH to 3000mAH, which range anywhere from US$5 to US$60 per
- pack of six cells.
- If you are going to be running at a sponsored race, batteries might be one of the
- restricted items. Check with the organizer of the race.
-
- 6.1. Battery care
-
- An entire document could be written - actually has been - on this topic alone. The
- best and simplest advice that I have seen so far is from Tom Younger: "The people
- who have poor battery life are those who re-charge when their batteries are still
- hot, and who spend far too much time, money, and effort trying to discharge their
- batteries after using them."
-
- I am not going to repeat what has already been covered very well. If you need to
- know more, check Dennis Clark's "The Care and Feeding of NiCd Batteries" page at
- <http://www.verinet.com/~dlc/battery.htm> for a discussion of battery care. At the
- end of that page you will find a link to "The R/C Battery Clinic"
- <http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/>; this site has more info, more detail, and more
- stuff on batteries.
- Also, do a search for past posts at rmrl on this topic. This is a very FAQ. Here
- are a few links, follow them to the threads:
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?btnG=Google+Search&as_umsgid=Pine.SUN.3.96.1010526082947.109A-100000@valdes>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?btnG=Google+Search&as_umsgid=893ee903.0105271726.1222d70b@posting.google.com>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?btnG=Google+Search&as_umsgid=ql7g7.5720%24xb1.2523383@news1.rdc1.ne.home.com>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?as_ugroup=rec.models.rc.land%2C%20uk.rec.models.radio-control.land&as_usubject=batteries>
- <http://www.schumacher.clara.net/charging.htm>
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 7. What are the different types of cars?
-
- As the hobby increases in popularity, so will the different categories of cars. It
- is difficult to easily categorize every single car out there. Here are the big
- three, most agreed upon, categories:
-
- Surface: off-road, on-road (also called 'street'). Hopefully this does not need any
- further explanation.
-
- Scale: 1:4, 1:8, 1:10, mini, micro. This refers to the size of the model. The first
- ones are referred to by their scaling factor; in the 1:8 size, for example, any
- feature that is 1 inch on the model car would be approximately 8 inches on the real
- thing. Note that this is VERY approximate (when is the last time you have seen the
- same length VW Bug and a Dodge truck)! Same thing for the other scales, just a
- different scaling factor. The minis and micros vary in scale depending on the
- manufacturer; they range from 1:18 to 1:30. There are other scale models besides
- the four listed here. The 1:10 scale is probably the most popular today. Note also
- that the micros use different size motors and batteries.
-
- Nitro / Electric: I don't know what to call this category (power, fuel?). This
- essentially talks about the motor inside the car. Nitro, also called 'gas', cars
- are powered by a combustion engine and some mixture of a combustible fuel. Electric
- cars are powered by an electric motor and electrical batteries. Generally the nitro
- cars require a bit more maintenance compared to the electric cars, and therefore
- the electric are preferred by first timers in the hobby. Although this is strictly
- a suggestion as there is absolutely nothing preventing you from buying a nitro car
- right from the go!
-
- After that the categories get little more sub-divided. Here is a sampling of the
- different categories and classifications that people generally talk about:
-
- Drive: 2 wheel (front / rear), 4 wheel. This is pretty much the same thing as on a
- real car.
-
- On-road types: touring, pan. Touring cars are probably the most popular type of car
- of all the categories. They are optimized for racing on a fairly clean surface.
- Anything from a clean parking lot, to perfectly swept and sprayed with some sticky
- substance (cola will do) lot. With a slight modification to the tires, these are
- also raced on an indoor carpet surface. Pan cars are similar to touring cars, but
- they are optimized to be raced on an oval shaped track (i.e.: only left turns!).
- They often have the shell similar to NASCAR type of cars, but this obviously varies
- with personal preference.
-
- Off-road types: buggy, truck, rally. Some people will argue that rally cars also
- should have a mention in the on-road category, and justifiably so. These are
- essentially touring cars with modified suspension parts. They have a higher
- clearance, longer shocks, and often rough thread tires. They are intended to be
- raced on very rough street conditions, such as a broken up parking lot. Trucks
- generally resemble ... well, trucks. They are often a little more sturdy and have a
- narrower wheelbase, as compared to buggies. Buggies resemble the real-life dune
- buggies. They are often a little more nimble, with a wider stance. In the off-road
- arena, trucks are probably more popular with first timers and back-yard bashers, as
- they can 'take a beating and keep on ticking.' Buggies are a little more popular
- with off-road racers. Some people would argue that monster trucks are a category
- all of their own. I am not one to make that decision. But basically, just like
- their real life counterparts, they are generally 4-wheel drive, big, and you can
- run them over top of stuff! Did I mention big?
-
- Specialty vehicles: dragster, tank, semi-truck, motorcycle. Like I said, as the
- hobby becomes more popular, there will be more ...
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 8. What are the different kinds of radios?
-
- There are two ways of looking at this:
-
- The first way of approaching this topic is from the physical characteristics of the
- radio. In this case there are two types of radios. The most common is a 'pistol
- grip' type radio. This is the type that you hold in one hand, kinda like a hand
- gun. On your trigger finger you have a lever that controls the speed: the throttle,
- with the other hand you hold on to a little wheel that controls the direction of
- the car: the steering. These radios mostly come in right hand configuration - you
- hold the radio in your left hand, and steer with the right - left handed radios are
- also available, but there are fewer to chose from. The second type is a 'stick' or
- 'paddle' type. This type of radio you generally hold with both hands, and with your
- index finger or thumb you hold on to two levers sticking out of the top. One level
- is the throttle and the other is the steering. The stick type of radio, in car
- racing, is decreasing in popularity in favor of the pistol grip, but there are
- still few around.
- There is apparently a single-stick radio out there. This works similarly to a
- joystick. I have never seen one, I am only spreading the rumor ... If anyone has an
- URL to a manufacturer, please send it my way.
-
- The second way of looking at this topic is the type of communication, the radio
- uses. I will, unfortunately, have to use some electronics terminology to be able to
- describe this. The radio transmits a radio signal which is picked up by a receiver
- in the car. So that more than one person would be able to race their car at the
- same time, each radio is assigned a particular frequency - this frequency is
- referred to as the 'carrier frequency'. Out of convenience, each carrier frequency
- is assigned a 'channel number' (see "Legal frequency - channel tables" at the end
- of this document). Almost all radios today can have their channel changed by
- changing a 'crystal' in the radio - this is a small electronic device which
- generates the appropriate carrier frequency. The radios are intentionally
- manufactured to make this relatively easy to do. The receiver must have a matching
- frequency crystal as well. Normally people get multiple crystal sets, so that when
- they get together with friends or for a race there is less likelihood that several
- people will have the same channel. In fact, if you enter into a race they will
- require you to submit three channels that you can race on, and just before your
- race they will tell you which of your three you must use.
- There are different methods to generate the carrier frequency, this is called
- 'frequency modulation'. There are three types of modulation that you will see when
- shopping for a radio. AM - Amplitude Modulation - is the simplest, least expensive
- method of signal transmission. The next type if FM - Frequency Modulation - which
- has inherently slightly better range and is less susceptible to radio interference.
- The last type is PCM - Pulse-Coded Modulation - which is a type of AM or FM
- modulation, but it has a greater range and resolution. PCM signals are coded in
- such a way that interference is almost nonexistent.
- 8.1. What is all this stuff on the radio?
-
- When you drive your car, the radio will impress information onto the carrier wave.
- The type of information that is impressed onto the carrier is: going left / right
- and how far to the left / right, go forward / backwards and how fast forward /
- backwards. Unfortunately, each of these functions is also referred to as a
- 'channel'. So a radio that can control steering and speed will be a 2-chanel radio.
- These channels are different than the channels for the carrier frequency; it is
- just a confusingly similar label. The receiver in the car then decodes this
- information, and generates appropriate electrical signals for the devices that are
- connected to it: the steering servo and the speed controller. These devices then
- transform those signals into the physical: your car moves! The term 'proportional
- radio', which might pop up while you're shopping, means that as you press more on
- the throttle the car moves proportionally faster; same goes for the steering. This
- is opposed to simple on-off control: the car is either standing still or going full
- blast - most toy R/C cars use on-off radio control. Check
- <http://www.howstuffworks.com/rc-toy3.htm> for a different explanation of the same
- thing, and with pictures. ;)
- All of this is quite simplified here. If you want more (technical) detail you can
- look up how a radio works in any electronics communications textbook.
-
- The method used to generate the radio signal (the modulation) is pretty
- standardized. The way to impress the information onto that carrier signal is
- different for each manufacturer. This means that radio made by company A will
- probably not work with a receiver made by company B, even if you have matching
- frequency crystals. The whole set: radio, receiver, and crystal set come as a
- matched set. There are third party manufacturers that make receivers that are
- compatible with first party manufacturers. Check with the manufacturer of your
- equipment before you commit to a purchase!
- One thing worthy of note is that crystals (channels) are interchangeable between AM
- and FM radios made by the same manufacturer. However, the radios are built so that
- crystals are not interchangeable between manufacturers - you need to buy crystals
- made for your brand of radio.
-
- There is also something called a 'synthesized frequency module'. This is referred
- to differently by different manufactures, for example: 'spectra module',
- 'synthesized transmitter', etc. The idea is rather simple (to the end-user anyway).
- There is an extra piece of electronic built into the radio that will allow you to
- dial in the desired frequency: no more crystals to swap. You can (but do not have
- to) get a receiver with the same thing in it.
-
- Another feature is something called Battery Elimination Circuit - BEC. Normally you
- need a battery pack connected to the speed controller which drives the motor, you
- also need a separate battery pack to power the receiver itself. Most receivers
- today have a BEC, which eliminates the need for the battery pack going to the
- receiver. The receiver gets its power from the motor battery pack. Less weight for
- your car to carry, less run time though; the tradeoff is worth it however.
-
- 8.2. Radio interference
-
- There is a whole bunch of stuff that can cause radio interference. How you detect
- it is very simple: your car goes crazy. If interference is a problem for you, go
- through the following list and see if you can eliminate any of these. I tried to
- put suggestions as to what you could do to fix the problem; some of these are
- simple and inexpensive, while some others ...
- - As stated before, from most to least susceptible types of radio transmission:
- AM, FM, PCM. The less susceptible you get, the more it will cost you.
- - Some people experienced a lot of interference when standing close to their car,
- especially with AM radios. This is especially a concern for nitro cars, when
- starting their car up.
- - Some people claim that the 27MHz band is more susceptible than the 75MHz band
- (in the US). The reasoning here is that the 27MHz band has the channels spaced
- further apart, this leaves more room for error. R/C toy manufacturers, who are not
- very concerned about making quality equipment, take advantage of that.
- Unfortunately, you cannot simply change the crystals to the 75MHz band - you would
- need to get a whole new radio.
- - Sparking (arcing) coming from the motor. Get new brushes; clean your motor;
- install noise capacitors on your motor: check the manuals that came with BOTH your
- motor and your ESC on how to do this correctly.
- - Bad (bad = old, defective, or possibly cheap) servos.
- - People standing next to you are using channels that are next (or close) to
- yours. Change your channel.
-
- 8.3. Using a 4-channel (or more) radio with a car
-
- Most radios used for R/C cars are 2-channel: direction and speed. There are also
- 3-channel radios; the third channel is used for fancy stuff. For example, some
- people wire up lights on their car to the third channel. Higher number of channels
- (up to 8) is intended for aircraft, but can it be used for cars?
-
- This will work, but there are a few things you must keep in mind. Different radios
- are designed for different applications. You might have to use some trial and error
- to figure out which channel you want to use for the throttle and which for the
- steering on your car. Also, multi-channel radios are intended for airplanes and
- other flying R/C models. The throttle for a car radio is spring loaded, but for an
- airplane it is not. This means that on a car radio when you let go of the throttle,
- it will return to the neutral position. On an airplane radio the throttle will
- stay, by design, wherever you had pushed it to. It will require some getting used
- to, but it can be done.
-
- Yes, there are also legal issues as well! You must use the correct frequency for
- your radio. Certain frequencies are reserved for air use only, and some others are
- for ground use only. At the end of this document, see "Legal frequency - channel
- tables", there is a list of legal frequencies for ground vehicles only.
- I personally am no lawyer, and as such I am not familiar with all the legal
- subtleties! In North America the government authority responsible for this is the
- FCC - Federal Communication Commission - which controls everything transmitted
- trough the air. They have a web site, and the relevant pages can be found at:
- <http://www.fcc.gov/wtb/prs/radcntrl.html>, and
- <http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_00/47cfrv5_00.html>. In the UK it is
- The Radiocommunications Agency; here is the best link I have been able to find:
- <http://www.radio.gov.uk/publication/ra_info/ra60.htm>. Good luck!
-
- 8.4. Too much information on radios
-
- Someone posted a message asking for plans to build his own radio. This topic is way
- too advanced for the scope of this FAQ. However, Rudie Shepherd provided the
- original poster with some very excellent URLs to sites with this type of
- information. For those truly into way too much information, here are the links:
- MicroPro8000 Users <http://mp8000.rcclubs.com/>
- Radio Modelisme (in French and English) <http://home.nordnet.fr/~fthobois/>
- RCMICRO: Microprocessor based radio control encoder
- <http://www.eagleairaust.com.au/encoder.htm>
-
- Here are a few more links describing how to build your own electronics, or modify
- your electronics. Please note that modifying your equipment will most certainly
- void the warranty on your equipment. :)
- The 7 channel hack: <http://www.teamtornado.co.uk/7channel.htm>
- PC-to-R/C Interface: <http://www.mh.ttu.ee/risto/rc/electronics/pctorc.htm>
- Micron Radio Control: <http://www.micronradiocontrol.fsnet.co.uk/>
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 9. What about motors and stuff?
-
- Electric motors EXTREMELY simplified: An electric motor has basically two parts: a
- 'can' and an 'armature'. In reality it has a whole bunch of other parts, but those
- are important mostly to hold everything together. The can is what you see on the
- outside; it is made of two (sometimes more) magnets. The armature is on the inside;
- you can usually see it if you look through the went holes in the can or if you take
- the motor apart. It is made of some magnetic substance like iron and has wire
- wrapped around it; this makes it an 'induction coil'. When electricity is run
- through the wire, it creates a magnetic field. This electro-magnetic field is
- opposite to the magnetic field provided by the permanent magnets; the two repel
- each other, and the armature rotates.
- As a user, you are generally concerned about how fast the armature spins when a
- given voltage is applied to it, and how well it can retain those revolutions when a
- load is applied to it. The first is normally given by the manufacturer in 'RPM'
- (rotations per minute), and the second is referred to as 'torque'. Two motors (even
- the same make and model) can have wildly different values. Therefore motor specs
- have been generalized in terms of 'turns' and 'winds'. Turns is the number of times
- a wire is wrapped around the armature; winds is the number of strands the wire has.
- For example, you will see motors specified as "17T2"; this means the wire is
- wrapped seventeen times around the armature, and the wire is made of two strands.
- Assuming that everything else on the car is kept the same lower number of turns
- translates to higher RPM. Winds deal with torque. In simplest terms, a single wind
- will give you generally more punch and a higher wind will give a progressively
- smoother pickup and a bit more top speed. Both winds and turns also affect run time
- - higher number of turns and single wind will give you more run time.
- Note that RPM does not always translate directly to speed! There are other factors,
- plus a better driver will always beat out a faster motor with an unskilled driver.
-
- In R/C car racing motors come in two categories: 'stock' and 'modified'.
- If you enter into a stock race, you will need to do it with a stock motor. The idea
- of stock races is that all the motors will perform the same, so the winner of the
- race is determined by: 1) the skill of the driver, and 2) the setup of his car.
- This is not necessarily always true, but that is the idea anyway.
- Modified motors come in wide range of winds and turns, and are usually made so they
- can be rebuilt and therefore are modifiable. They are generally (but not always)
- higher performance motors as compared to the stock.
-
- Significantly more detailed information can be found at Tom's R/C Page
- <http://www.csc.uvic.ca/~tyounger/hafh/rc/>.
-
- 9.1. How to speed up electric motors?
-
- Keep in mind that several factors contribute to the speed of your vehicle, the
- motor is only one of them. Following is a post to rmrl, slightly edited for grammar
- and legibility:
-
- From: popeye <news:9ep918$41q$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>
- Tuning modified motors is not that easy, first of all clean the thing.
- 1. Mark the end bell and case so as to keep timing position.
- 2. Remove brushes and springs.
- 3. Remove the top screws twist end bell and pull up; be sure to not loose the small
- shim washers.
- 4. Pull the armature out of the motor again, look for the small shim washers at the
- bottom.
- 5. Clean the inside of the case and end bell with motor cleaner.
- 6. Wash the armature with the cleaner, do not touch the armature com (copper bit)
- with your fingers.
- 7. Use bearing oil to oil both case and endbell bearings. Reassemble motor.
- 8. Don't forget to put the shims back in; if you have them right then there should
- be a very small amount of play when reassembled.
- 9. Brushes should be replaced when about 1/3 worn.
- 10. Line up the timing marks, and hay presto one clean efficient motor.
- Sounds difficult to some but it is not. If you want to get more speed etc, then get
- com skimmed, put softer brushes, better springs, renew bearings when armature feels
- gritty (to test bearings before reassembling place armature in housings from the
- outside and spin). Also as motor gets old timing may need adjusting. Never throw
- away a motor, it can be reused remagnetised even 15T4 turned in to 12T2 or any
- other motor is usually cheaper than the cost of a new motor.
-
- For additional information on motor maintenance see:
- <http://www.wildhobbies.com/news/default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=412>, and
- <http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/rc101/blackbook.htm>.
-
- 9.2. Brushless motors
-
- This is still quite new, or at least not very widely accepted concept as of yet.
- The idea is something like an electric motor with no brushes and no speed
- controller. Read all about it here:
- <http://www.gtdodd.demon.co.uk/brushless/intro.htm>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?btnG=Google+Search&as_umsgid=a8mod3$28p$1@reader06.wxs.nl>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?btnG=Google+Search&as_umsgid=20010225001710.04970.00002026@ng-cd1.aol.com>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?btnG=Google+Search&as_umsgid=19980129044301.XAA29614@ladder02.news.aol.com>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?btnG=Google+Search&as_umsgid=uOIwO9qlBHA.227@net037s.hetnet.nl>
-
- 9.3. Speed controllers
-
- There are two types of speed controllers:
- 1) Mechanical Speed Controller, MSC - This type of a controller is basically a big
- variable resistor, controlled by a servo. It can normally achieve three different
- speeds (three-steps), and does not have a reverse option. Advantages: there is only
- one that I am aware of: cost!
- 2) Electronic Speed Controller, ESC - This type of a controller is a mysterious
- black box (to the end user). This means that it has a lot of electronic components,
- all of which are not visible to the user. It supplies the motor with pulses of the
- appropriate voltage. Since it is electronic, and the insides are digital, it has
- many more steps / speeds (up to 255), which makes the running the car seem much
- more life-like. These also do come with a reverse option. Advantages: better
- control of the car; runs much cooler; can handle higher battery cell packs; can
- handle hotter motors without melting. Most drivers today run with electronic
- controllers. It is actually quite rare to see a car with a mechanical one today.
- Most manufacturers will have an explanation of all the terms that go along with the
- ESC; unfortunately each manufacturer uses a different term to name the same thing,
- and further, each manufacturer will stress a different thing on their product (it's
- called 'marketing'). The things that you should concentrate on, to start of with:
- reverse (this is a yes / no type of thing - for off-road go with a 'yes', for on-
- road you could go either way); number of cells (this is generally a range - you
- will want one that can definitely handle 6 cells, which is almost all ESCs on the
- market today); motor limit (the number of turns on the motor that an ESC can handle
- - remember: the lower the turns = the hotter the motor).
-
- Way detailed info on ESCs: <http://www.math.niu.edu/~behr/RC/speed-ctl.html>. Wanna
- build your own? See Mike Norton's Hobbies at <http://home.HiWAAY.net/~mjn/>, or
- Stefan's Electric R/C Web Site <http://www.capable.on.ca/rcstuff/escbec.htm>
- <http://www.capable.on.ca/rcstuff/esc.htm>.
-
- 9.4. Gear ratios
-
- There are two gears on your car. A 'pinion' is generally the smaller gear attached
- to the shaft of the motor. A 'spur' is the bigger one connected to some drive
- mechanism of the wheels. A 'gear ratio' is the number of teeth on the spur divided
- by the number of teeth on the pinion. This ratio represents the number of rotations
- the pinion makes per every rotation of the spur. Note that one rotation of the
- pinion is equal to one rotation of the motor, since the two are attached by a
- shaft. Depending on the drive mechanism in your car, there might be additional
- geared wheels (like differentials) between the spur and the tires - this is almost
- a certainty for 4WD cars. The manufacturer will generally supply you with the
- 'final drive ratio'. This is the number of rotations the pinion makes per rotation
- of the wheels. If you have a two wheel drive car and the spur gear is connected
- directly to the wheels, then your drive ratio is going to be the same as the final
- drive ratio.
- Taking the circumference of your wheels, divided by the final drive ratio,
- multiplied by the RPM of your motor, would give you the theoretical top speed of
- your car - the units will be same as your circumference per minute. This is only
- theoretical since it does not take into account friction, and other factors such as
- how well your tires stick to the pavement, and the skill of the driver.
-
- So what gear ratio should you use? Chris Dugan
- <news:jx_j8.48632$y76.5834820@news6-win.server.ntlworld.com> offered the following
- advice: With pinions you use a larger one for more top end speed (the reverse for
- the spur), but only change either the spur or the pinion not both. Most people
- change the pinion and leave the spur at the factory supplied size, if you change to
- a smaller spur and start to use small pinions you might find trouble meshing the
- gears (the motor won't reach the spur). Same thing goes for a larger spur than
- standard.
-
- There are different sized teeth on the gears. This is called the 'pitch'. Lee Cao
- <news:a24aqn$gjv$1@lore.csc.com> offered the following definition (edited for
- spelling): Pitch is the number of teeth a gear has per inch of circumference. So a
- 32 pitch gear would have the tooth sized and spaced in a manner such that if the
- circumference of the gear is exactly 1 inch, the gear would have exactly 32 teeth.
- Similarly, a 16 teeth gear would therefore have a .5 inch circumference.
-
- Also have a read through S. Varah's info on gearing:
- <http://www.schumacher.clara.net/gearing.htm>.
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 10. Painting
-
- The question of painting (as well as removing paint) seems to come up quite often,
- enough to warrant mentioning it here; actually someone even specifically mailed me
- about adding a section on this. Personally I rather suck at it, so I will just
- direct you to the 'experts':
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?as_ugroup=rec.models.rc.land&as_usubject=paint>
- <http://freespace.virgin.net/bodyshells.uk/faq/faq.htm>
- <http://groups.google.com/groups?q=remove+paint+body&btnG=Google+Search&meta=group%3Drec.models.rc.land>
- <http://www.rcxotic.com/pkg-how/000002/>
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 11. Some useful links
-
- The links below, are to sites that contain technical information that mostly
- pertains (but not exclusively) to R/C cars. The descriptions (if any) are the
- webmaster's own and not mine; it is taken from the META - DESCRIPTION tag if there
- is one, and secondary consideration is given to the TITLE tag (because after all,
- that is what they are meant for!). The order presented is not any kind of a rating
- system, it is simply the order that I happen to add these to the list.
-
- <http://www.rcracing.com/> RC Racing, Local RC Racing in Northern California,
- Yokomo, Losi, Kawada, HPI RS4, Tamiya Mini Cooper, Kyosho and other touring cars,
- RC Cars, RC Racing, RC Electric Cars,RC Racing,R/C Racing.
-
- <http://gallery.uunet.be/heremanss/> This site describes the function and
- importance of various suspension components, as well as their effects on the car's
- handling. Its purpose is to give you some insight in elementary vehicle dynamics.
-
- <http://www.csc.uvic.ca/~tyounger/hafh/rc/> Tom's R/C Stuff.
-
- <http://www.verinet.com/~dlc/rccars.htm> DLC's RC Cars.
-
- <http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2314/> Mark Brown's home page.
-
- <http://moe.intelos.net/~rpm/> R/C Headquarters.
-
- <http://rcvehicles.about.com/> Find everything you want to know about rc cars, rc
- trucks, rc aircraft, rc boats and other types of radio control tips & tricks. You
- can get information about electric and nitro powered Kyosho, Associated, Trinity,
- DuraTrax, Tamiya, Losi, Traxxas radio controlled cars and trucks in all scales.
-
- <http://www.rccaraction.com/> Radio Control Car Action is the world's leading RC
- model car and truck magazine.
-
- <http://www.rcnitro.com/> Radio Control Car Action is the world's leading RC model
- car and truck magazine.
-
- <http://www.maxxtraxx.com/> T-maxx news/reviews/discussion! The most timely,
- reliable, service on the web for up to the minute T-maxx news, hot tips, reviews,
- and message board community about the T-Maxx!
-
- <http://home.kc.rr.com/grayghost/> The Gray Ghost's Homepage.
-
- <http://www.rccentral.com/> RC Central - Remote Control RC Cars and Trucks
-
- <http://www.rcxotic.com/> Best Resource for 1/10 scale Touring RC Cars on the web.
- Here you will find TIPS that actually help,links, Canadian RC EVENTS, Inspiring RC
- Pictures and much much more!
-
- <http://www.rcmt.net/> Welcome to the new Radio Control Monster Truck Network Your
- Guide
-
- <http://www.rcrally.com/> RC Rally - Proud Sponsor of the World Scale Rally
- Championship and home of all things Rally
-
- <http://www.wildhobbies.com/> Hobby resource site for high power rocketry, r/c
- cars, rc planes, mini 4wd, and much more.
-
- <http://www.rcdesign.ru/> Electronic devices for modelling. Pictures, descriptions,
- schematics, documentation. Everything for RC models: tachometer, speed control,
- motor heater, battery indicator, piezo gyro...
-
- <http://www.rccartalk.com/> RC Car Talk is your complete guide to electric and
- nitro gas powered rc cars and trucks with hot tips for buying, building, tuning and
- racing popular remote control cars, trucks, magazines, and more.
-
- <http://www.rc10gthobby.com/> Manufacture of the Crescenzi rc10gt Brake System for,
- radio control RC10 GT and Nitro DS. Aftermarket Hop ups like, MIP, RPM, Robinson
- Racing, Racers Edge, DuBro, Crescenzi Racing. gallery, Best 50 nitro RC Off Road
- Sites, Links and more.
-
- <http://www.BlueMaxRC.com/> Blue Max R/C Flying Club
-
- <http://www.schumacher.clara.net/> Viper RC - The definitive guide to Radio
- Controlled cars
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 12. Links to links to manufacturers and stores
-
- There are just too many manufacturers, and this section started to get out of hand.
- The following links already have pretty good lists, so no point in wasting more
- bandwidth than is absolutely necessary. You should be able to find almost anything
- from any one of these:
-
- <http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/>
-
- <http://www.sandland.ws/links/>
-
- <http://www.cse.unsw.edu.au/~waleed/rc/>
-
- <http://www.rcyellowpages.com/>
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 13. Legal frequency - channel tables
-
- USA and Canada:
- <http://www.rcxotic.com/frequency.shtml>
-
- UK:
- 27 MHz (general R/C use) band: <http://www.gjctech.co.uk/misc/27mhz.htm>
- 40 MHz (surface use) band: <http://www.gjctech.co.uk/misc/40mhz.htm>
-
- From: Orjan Sandland <news:2oES5.429$6p6.520@news.world-online.no>
- Here are the frequencies for Norway:
- For ALL sorts of remote control
- 26.995 MHz
- 27.045 MHz
- 27.095 MHz
- 27.145 MHz
- 27.195 MHz
- 27.255 MHz
- 40.665 MHz
- 40.675 MHz
- 40.685 MHz
- 40.695 MHz
- Only for R/C cars and boats
- 35.310 MHz
- 35.320 MHz
- 35.330 MHz
- 35.340 MHz
- 35.350 MHz
- 35.360 MHz
- 35.370 MHz
- 35.380 MHz
- 35.390 MHz
- 40.705 MHz
- 40.715 MHz
- 40.725 MHz
- 40.735 MHz
- 40.745 MHz
- 40.755 MHz
- 40.765 MHz
- 40.775 MHz
- 40.785 MHz
- 40.795 MHz
-
- From: Stipus <news:00e901c1c06a$317d34c0$bb01043e@JMJOUDRIER>
- Here are the authorized R/C frequencies for France:
- 26.815 to 26.915 MHz = All sorts of rc activities
- 41.000 to 41.100 MHz = Only flying r/c models
- 41.100 to 41.200 MHz = R/c cars and boats
- 72.210 to 72.490 MHz = All sorts of rc activities.
-
- ------------------------------
-
- Subject: 14. Legal jargon
-
- Comments about, suggestions about, and especially corrections to this document are
- welcomed and greatly appreciated. Send <mailto:siking@myrealbox.com> to reach the
- author.
-
- This article is provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While
- every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in
- this article, the author / maintainer / contributors assume no responsibility for
- errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use or misuse of the
- information contained herein.
- This FAQ may be posted to any Usenet newsgroup, on-line service, web site, or BBS
- as long as it is posted in its entirety and includes this disclaimer statement.
- This FAQ may be distributed as class material on any printed, magnetic, or
- electronic medium as long as there is no charge (except to cover materials). This
- FAQ may not be distributed for financial gain. This FAQ may not be included in
- commercial collections or compilations without prior express written permission
- from the author.
-
-