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- From: holly@cluebus.com (Holly)
- Subject: rec.pets.dogs: German Shepherd Dogs Breed-FAQ
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- =======
- There are nearly 100 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
- listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
- is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
- to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
- the Web at http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/lists/faq-list.html, or
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- send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
- in the body of the message.
-
- This article is Copyright 1996 by the Author(s) listed below.
- It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
- alteration provided that this copyright notice is not removed.
- It may NOT reside at another website (use links, please) other
- than the URL listed above without the permission of the Author(s).
- This article may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in other
- documents without he Author(s)'s permission and is provided "as is"
- without express or implied warranty.
- ==========
-
-
- German Shepherd Dogs
-
- Created: 2 Oct 1994
-
- Modified: 13 May 1997
-
- Previous: 13 Apr 1997
-
- _Acknowledgements_
-
- This FAQ was developed by Holly (gsd@cluebus.com) (hs) with the
- assistance of (alphabetical by last name though last names have been
- omitted to protect the privacy of the contributor):
- * Marianne (mcowley@cftnet.com) (mc)
- * Katharine (kcumming@bingsuns.cc.binghamton.edu) (kc)
- * Mary (also kc)
- * Gareth (gareth@werple.com.au) (gd)
- * Amy (ahendrix@cris.com) (ah)
- * Victoria (janicki@gblaut.enet.dec.com) (vj)
- * Craig (mirate@dofm.berkeley.edu) (cm)
- * Jan (talisman@crl.com) (jm)
- * Lily (lily@dvorak.coda.cs.cmu.edu) (lm)
- * Robin (robin_nuttall@muccmail.missouri.edu) (rn)
- * Dori (dori_p@primenet.com) (dp)
-
- The initials of contributors are included in each section, though the
- contributions may have undergone editing. They have my gratitude.
-
- Thanks also to Cindy for her invaluable help.
-
- If you have a suggestion, submission or comment regarding this FAQ,
- please send e-mail to gsd@cluebus.com
-
- Standard Disclaimer: I have done the best and most complete job I
- could in this FAQ. I admit a bias to AKC and American standards since
- that's what I'm most familiar with. I do not profess to be
- all-knowledgeable wrt to GSDs (or anything else for that matter! :-).
- Your mileage may vary. No warranty is expressed or implied. -Holly
-
- Copyright (c) 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 by Holly Lee Stowe
-
- Sections Copyright (c) 1995 by OFA (please contact Robin Nuttall for
- redistribution)
-
- This article may be freely distributed in its entirety provided that
- copyright notice is not removed with the exception of the section on
- OFA which is copyrighted by the OFA. It may not be sold for profit nor
- incorporated in whole or in part in any other document without the
- author's written permission.
-
- Explicit permission is hereby granted to all humane shelters, animal
- shelters, city pounds and rescue organizations placing animals to
- redistribute the material under the conditions above.
-
- Those sites wishing to reference this document through the web or
- other means via the internet must set references to point to the
- original copy at _http://www.cluebus.com/holly/gsdfaq.html_ unless
- given explicit written permission by the author and copyright holder.
-
- _________________
-
- In memory of and dedicated to:
- Heidi (13 Aug 1957 - 17 Nov 1970)
- Bompsey (the Bomps, "Sweep of Birch Point") (19 May 1971 - 2 Feb 1980)
- Amanda ("Holly's Eager Beaver Amanda") (24 Mar 1980 - 14 Dec 1993)
- Sebastian ("Holly's Bashful Sebastian") (6 Apr 1980 - 13 Sep 1993)
- Winter ("Winterabend vom Erste Freund") (24 Nov 1993 - )
- Yuno ("Yuno Who von Erste Freund") (9 Jul 1994 - )
- and our "honorary" German Shepherds:
- Abbie (Irish Setter) and Chloe (20 Aug 1993 - ) (Chow-ador-atian)
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- Table of Contents
-
- * Introduction
- * Questions
- + Do German Shepherds make good family pets?
- + What traits are inherent in German Shepherds?
- + What should I look for in a German Shepherd puppy?
- + Can my breeder guarantee my puppy will not have hip problems?
- + Should I get a male or female puppy?
- + How old should my puppy be when it goes home?
- + How big will my German Shepherd be?
- + What is "socializing" and why is it important?
- + When will my puppy's ears stand?
- + What precautions should I take with my puppy?
- + When should I switch my puppy to adult food?
- + How often should I feed my puppy and how much?
- + What is bloat (gastric torsion)?
- + What is the life expectancy of a German Shepherd?
- + Should I get American or German bloodlines?
- + Do German Shepherds shed a lot?
- + What about long-coated Germans Shepherds?
- + Are German Shepherds smart and easy to train?
- + My adolescent German Shepherd is limping! What should I do?
- + What is a "gay tail"?
- + What do German Shepherds have a reputation of being vicious?
- + Why is a white German Shepherd disqualified from the show
- ring?
- + What is an average size litter?
- + What is the difference between a German Shepherd and an
- Alsatian?
- + Why is the word "dog" used in the breed name?
- + What is Schutzhund?
- + Is there a club for German Shepherds?
- + Is there a mailing list for German Shepherds?
- * Finding Your New GSD
- * What Questions Should I Ask a Breeder?/What if I Want to Breed My
- GSD?
- (currently in a separate document)
- * Your New GSD Puppy at Home
- * History of the German Shepherd Dog
- * German Pedigrees, Working Titles and Certifications
- * Schutzhund
- * Health Concerns
- + Brief Explanations of Various Disorders
- + More Detail on Common Disorders
- o Degenerative Myleopathy
- o Elbow Dysplasia
- o Epilepsy
- o Hip Dysplasia
- o Pannus
- o Panosteitis
- o Peripheral Vestibular Disease
- o Soft Ears
- o Von Willebrand's Disease
- + OFA Information and Statistics on GSD Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
- (rn*)
- * Color and Heredity
- * GSD Standards - AKC and British Comparisons
- * Resources
- + Bibliography
- + Addresses
- o German Shepherd Dog Club of America
- o United Schutzhund Clubs of America
- o Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde
- o German Shepherd Dog Club of Canada
- + GSD Mailing Lists
- + Rescue (updated 14 Dec 1995)
- o AK
- o AZ
- o CA
- o CO
- o CT
- o DE
- o FL
- o GA
- o ID
- o IL
- o IN
- o LA
- o MA
- o MD
- o ME
- o MI
- o MN
- o MO
- o MS
- o NC
- o NH
- o NJ
- o NM
- o NV
- o NY
- o OH
- o OK
- o PA
- o SC
- o TN
- o TX
- o VA
- o VT
- o WA
- o WV
- o WI
- + Breeders (under construction)
- + Other Resources (under construction)
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Introduction_ (mc)
-
- "The most striking features of the correctly bred German Shepherd
- are firmness of nerves, attentiveness, unshockability,
- tractability, watchfulness, reliability and incorruptibility
- together with courage, fighting tenacity and hardness."
-
- - Max von Stephanitz, Father of the German Shepherd Dog
-
- The German Shepherd Dog (GSD) is a versatile working-dog, capable of
- being trained to perform a wide variety of tasks. GSDs are family
- pets, police dogs, guide dogs, search and rescue dogs, bomb and drug
- detection dogs, sheep and cattle herders, hunting companions, guard
- dogs, obedience champions, avalanche dogs, assistance dogs, show dogs,
- and more.
-
- Regardless of their particular role, GSDs are excellent companions
- provided they receive the attention, training, and exercise they need
- and feel useful. On the other hand, a neglected GSD will use those
- same wonderful traits to devise ways to amuse himself, much to the
- chagrin of his owner.
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Questions_ (all)
-
- _Do GSDs make good family pets?_
-
- Yes! GSDs are naturally protective of their "pack". Young children
- should never be left unattended with a puppy, however, if the
- children learn to respect the puppy as a living being, the puppy
- will be a wonderful companion for the children as they all grow up
- together. Your dog's ranking in the "pack" should always be
- established as the bottom (Omega) member below humans.
-
- _What traits are inherent in GSDs generally?_
-
- GSDs are natural herding dogs. Your GSD will try to "herd" you and
- your family. Often they will "follow ahead", walking in front of
- you and looking back to make sure you're going where you should.
- Although the GSD is not used as frequently for herding in present
- time, there are many breed lines still known for their herding. The
- breed is naturally loyal, intelligent and protective (which makes
- it good for police work). The GSD has an excellent nose, making it
- good for tracking and search and rescue work. They are calm and
- have a steady temperament when well-bred which is why they have
- been used as "Seeing Eye" dogs. A GSD thrives on regular exercise,
- mental stimulation and a well-balanced diet.
-
- These traits make a GSD an absolute pleasure to own when
- well-trained, but in the hands of a novice, unconcerned,
- uncommitted owner, their intelligence and drive can become
- difficult to manage.
-
- Breeding plays an important role in the temperament of GSDs, so
- selecting a reputable breeder concerned with both physical health
- and the personality of their puppies is of utmost importance.
- Different bloodlines exhibit traits differently, so question
- breeders about the strong and weak traits of their bloodlines. See
- the question on German versus American bloodlines about specific
- general differences.
-
- _What should I look for in a GSD puppy?_
-
- Obviously, many factors affect the selection of the puppy,
- including the personality and lifestyle of the prospective owner.
- Avoid puppies that appear too shy or nervous. Puppies at an age
- where they can be sent home with their new owners should be
- inquisitive and curious. GSD pups generally lengthen along the back
- and loin rather than get shorter. Look for balance in angulation,
- especially in the hind quarters as an imbalanced pup may never grow
- into the correct angulation. Meet both sire and dam if possible
- since character is very important. The puppies' parents should be
- OFA certified (preferably "Good" or "Excellent") (US dogs), OVC
- certified (Canadian dogs) or certified "a-normal" (German dogs).
- Make sure you see the parents' certifications. Hip problems can be
- devastating.
-
- The OFA is the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. When potential
- breeding stock reaches the age of 2, the breeder should have a set
- of x-rays taken and submit them to the OFA for certification. OFA
- will return a certification (Excellent, Good, or Fair) along with a
- certification number for the dog. (Dysplastic dogs will not be
- given a certification number.) (German certification is done over 1
- year of age.) For information on German certifications, see the
- section on German Pedigrees, Working Titles and Certifications.
- More information on OFA can be found in the health and medical FAQs
- in rec.pets.dogs.info. Statistics regarding the GSD and OFA
- information can be found in the section on OFA Information and
- Statistics. Watch as the puppies move about. If you are
- inexperienced with GSDs, do not pick the "bully" of the litter.
- Watch the puppies interact with each other in the litter as well as
- with you and your family members. Watch the puppies you are
- considering interact with you without the rest of the litter
- present. Look for a friendly puppy who is not afraid, but also
- allows you to handle it without a lot of struggle. Bloodlines will
- make a difference in the working drive of the dog. German lines
- tend to be more dominant than American lines as discussed a few
- questions down.
-
- Ask to look through the puppy's pedigree. Look for obedience
- titles, conformation titles, hip certifications and make sure that
- common ancestors are at least 3 generations back. If you don't
- understand something, ask the breeder! Most of all, select a puppy
- that feels comfortable with your family. Reputable breeders will
- also make suggestions to insure their puppies go to happy,
- well-chosen homes.
-
- You can also ask if the puppies have been temperament tested and
- look at the results. "The Art of Raising a Puppy" by the Monks of
- New Skete (see Bibliography) details temperament testing and puppy
- selection.
-
- Elbow certifications as well as hip certifications are becoming
- more common. As with hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia can only be
- diagnosed by radiograph.
-
- Also check out the breeding information found at
- http://www.cluebus.com/holly/breeder.html about specific questions
- to ask (and to be asked).
-
- _Can my breeder guarantee my puppy will not have hip problems?_
-
- NO! Hip dysplasia is considered to be polygenic. That means that
- it's caused by a combination of genes that may not show up in any
- litter previously. No matter the certifications in the pedigree it
- is possible that your puppy could be predisposed to hip dysplasia.
- That's why preliminary hip x-rays after 6 months are a good idea.
- Treatments (both surgical and drug) can be done early to alleviate
- problems down the line. If in doubt, find an orthopedic specialist.
- Be wary of a breeder that says their puppies will definitely not
- have hip problems.
-
- But, a responsible breeder _will_ guarantee their puppies for life.
- The guarantee may vary. Some breeders will require you to return
- the puppy for a replacement; some will refund all or part of your
- money; some will not require you to return the puppy, but still
- offer a replacement or refund. Do not be dismayed at a requirement
- for a return of a puppy. A puppy may be in severe pain and an owner
- may not be emotionally prepared to put a puppy down who really
- should be put down. A responsible breeder will want what's best for
- the puppy/dog.
-
- _Should I get a male or female?_
-
- This is an age-old question and almost strictly a matter of
- preference. Some people will say that males are more "location"
- protective while females are more "pack" protective. Males are
- generally more territorial, so unless training steps are
- consistent, marking could be a problem. (Neutering may help
- alleviate this problem. Any dog not intended for a breeding program
- should be neutered or spayed. Besides eliminating the possibility
- of unwanted puppies and reducing some undesireable behaviors, it's
- considerably healthier for your dog since it eliminates or severely
- reduces the chance of testicular or mammary cancers. Breeding
- should *never* be taken lightly.)
-
- _How old should my puppy be before I take it home?_
-
- Puppies are weaned from their mothers by about 6 weeks of age, but
- the period following weaning is very important in terms of learning
- "pack" behavior. Although 8 weeks is old enough and a common age
- for leaving the litter, 10 weeks is probably optimum for a GSD.
- However, better to take the puppy at 8 weeks if the rest of the
- litter have already gone to their homes. Puppies up to 12 weeks old
- should pose no additional concerns. After 12 weeks old, make sure
- the breeder has taken special care to socialize the puppy (puppies)
- with other dogs and people.
-
- _How big will my GSD be?_
-
- The full adult size of your GSD will depend in large part on the
- genetic background of its parents. The AKC Standard states that
- adult males should range between 24-26" at the shoulder blade,
- females from 22-24". Males within the standard may weigh anywhere
- from 65-90 lbs. depending on their bloodlines. Females may weigh
- anywhere from 55-80 lbs. (Again, much depends on the genetics and
- bloodlines. The above are only a rough idea.) Although your pup
- will reach close to adult height by 10-18 months, s/he will
- continue to fill out until up to 3 years old.
-
- Be wary of breeders who emphasize "oversize", "huge", "big-boned"
- breeding stock or puppies. Bigger is _not_ better in German
- Shepherds. The German Shepherd is not built to have a skeletal and
- muscular structure of an oversize breed. An inch or so out of
- standard may be acceptable providing the general line is not
- consistently out of standard. A responsible breeder will offset an
- oversize dog by breeding with a line that is a bit smaller in order
- to maintain the standards as closely as possible.
-
- _What is "socializing" and why is it so important?_
-
- Socializing refers to exposing your puppy to a variety of
- experiences, including meeting lots of people of various ages,
- races, sizes and both sexes as well as teaching them how to
- acceptably interact with other dogs. Puppy kindergarten classes
- provide an excellent opportunity for socialization in a controlled
- environment.
-
- Socializing is important because it helps strengthen your dog's
- confidence and reduces the chance that your dog will become shy or
- fearful. Fearful dogs can become fear aggressive or fear biters.
-
- _When will my GSD puppy's ears stand?_
-
- Although some puppies' ears stand as early as 8-10 weeks, don't be
- concerned if your pup's ears don't stand until 6-7 months
- (especially pups with large ears) after teething. Some pups ears
- never stand. This is known as a "soft ear". Sometimes taping is
- successful. "Soft ears" are a genetic trait, and dogs with soft
- ears should not be bred even if taping is successful. It is a
- disqualification in showing. Some GSDs ears stand but wiggle at the
- tips when the dogs run. This is known as "friendly ears". Friendly
- ears are not a disqualification but are not a desirable trait.
-
- One method of "taping" ears is to take a pink foam roller and
- attach it with eyelash glue to the inside of the ear (the pinna).
- Do not block the ear canal. Taping may take up to 2 months. But
- again, be cautious about considering breeding a dog whose ears have
- had to be taped.
-
- _What precautions should I take with my GSD puppy?_
-
- Other than the normal precautions of immunizations (see the new
- puppy FAQ at
- http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html#health),
- beware of a fast-growing puppy. There are studies that show a
- correlation between fast growth and hip dysplasia (if your pup is
- predisposed to HD). You may want to switch your puppy over to adult
- food if it seems to be growing very quickly (see also Your New GSD
- at Home).
-
- Don't pet your puppy's ears backwards before they stand. Although
- people often do this by nature, it can damage the cartilege in your
- pup's ears which can affect the ear carriage.
-
- When your puppy is about 6 months old, have preliminary x-rays done
- of your puppy's hips. If your pup shows signs of dysplasia, there
- are treatment alternatives available to younger dogs that are not
- available if the dog is older and has arthritic changes. If
- detected early, there are things you can do for your dog to give it
- a happy, healthy life even with dysplasia. If your pup shows mild
- signs, consider having another set of x-rays taken after your dog
- turns 2. Orthopedic changes (both positive and negative) can take
- place up to this time.
-
- Under NO circumstances should a dog with any sign of hip dysplasia
- be bred. Breeding stock should be certified with the Orthopedic
- Foundation for Animals before breeding. OFA will certify dogs over
- 2 years of age. You are _strongly_ urged to not buy a puppy from a
- breeder who does not have OFA certificates on their breeding stock.
- Do _not_ accept a breeder who says "Oh, my vet checked them and
- they're fine." There are many subtleties in dysplasia that a vet
- not trained in orthopedics may miss. You can look up a dog in the
- OFA database a http://206.29.98.50/ofa/index2.htm to insure that
- the dam and sire in question truly are OFAd.
-
- Do take your puppy to puppy kindergarten and obedience training
- classes and do your homework for these classes. Behaviors that are
- cute in a 15 pound puppy can be dangerous in a 75 pound adult.
- Socialize your puppy with people (especially children) and other
- dogs frequently (after your puppy has completed its immunization
- series sometime after 16 weeks old).
-
- Your puppy may go through a period known as "adolescent shyness"
- when it reaches 4-5 months of age. This period can last until the
- pup is 12-18 months old. Socializing your puppy from an early age
- will help minimize this shyness. Expose your puppy to a variety of
- experiences, but do so gently. You don't want to traumatize your
- puppy.
-
- Be careful of heavy physical exertion directly before and after
- eating, especially if your GSD is a "gulper". GSDs (and many other
- breeds) can suffer from bloat. If your dog's abdomen becomes
- distended and rigid and it can not seem to belch or pass gas,
- gastric torsion may be the problem. (The stomach twists.) This is
- an _immediate_ health concern and you should contact your vet or an
- emergency clinic.
-
- _When should I switch my puppy to adult food?_
-
- Individual puppies and bloodlines will vary. You probably are best
- off discussing your puppy's growth and needs with both your vet and
- your breeder. Many breeders and dog food manufacturers advise
- switching to a high quality adult food at four to six months of
- age. As long as you are feeding a high quality food, this has no
- ill effect on the puppy and is probably a good idea. Check out the
- content of the food closely. A puppy or dog with average activity
- should have about 26% protein and 15-18% fat. Look for some kind of
- meat to be the first ingredient, not a grain product. Don't
- overlook feed stores as a good place to buy dog food. Often prices
- are less than at pet supply stores. (Please don't patronize pet
- stores that sell puppies. Pet stores are in the business of making
- money, not breeding responsibly.)
-
- Offhand, if your puppy is growing very quickly, you might want to
- ask your vet about switching to adult food even as early as 12
- weeks. Studies have shown that puppies growing quickly may
- exacerbate a prediliction to hip dysplasia. Otherwise, you can
- consider switching any time after 10-18 months depending on the
- dog.
-
- Dry food is fine. You don't need to supplement with canned food.
- It's expensive and doesn't provide anything a good dry food
- doesn't. If your puppy doesn't want to eat the dry food, you can
- moisten it slightly with warm water. (This may also reduce the risk
- of bloat.
-
- _How often should I feed my puppy and how much?_
-
- Free-feeding versus scheduled feeding is another area in which
- people disagree violently. Some breeds don't lend themselves well
- to free feeding. German Shepherds, depending on the individual dog,
- are often excellent at being free-fed without worry of over-eating
- or becoming fat. (But you do need to keep an eye on your
- puppy's/dog's weight. You should be able to feel the ribs under the
- skin fairly easily.)
-
- However, during housebreaking, it's usually a good idea to keep a
- modified free-feed for a puppy so you can anticipate when they will
- need to go out to potty. (Usually this is about 15-30 minutes after
- eating, but it can be an amazing 4 hours or more with some
- puppies.) Feed the puppy as much as it will eat before leaving the
- bowl 3 times a day up until the puppy is moderately well
- housebroken (4-5 months old). If you will be gone for long hours,
- you may want to consider only leaving a small amount in the bowl in
- the mornings after that time, but giving free access to food until
- about an hour before bedtime until the puppy is completely
- reliable. After that, the dog will have learned the family schedule
- better and adjust its eating schedule accordingly. (Be aware,
- however, that there will be times with every dog, no matter what
- kind of feeding schedule, where the dog will need to go out during
- the night to potty, or, if you're a late sleeper/worker, at least
- by the time it's light out.)
-
- Should you choose to schedule feed (and there's nothing wrong with
- this), it's still better to feed at least a small amount of food
- before leaving for the day. Often a dog that's hungry will vomit up
- yellow bile. A small meal in the morning should keep this from
- happening, but shouldn't cause the dog undue distress from needing
- to relieve itself during the day. You can feed the dog its main
- portion of food in the evening when you're home to walk it. For a
- German Shepherd with an average activity level, 1 cup of food in
- the morning followed by 3 cups in the evening should be about
- right, but keep an eye on your dog's weight and adjust the food
- accordingly.
-
- Approximately the same rules apply to water. It won't do a puppy
- any harm to have its water source removed about an hour before
- bedtime and not have access to water until the morning. Fresh water
- should be available with every meal. Once the dog is housebroken,
- free access to water unless you will be gone for an extrodinarily
- long period of time should not be a problem.
-
- See the next section on bloat.
-
- _What is bloat (gastric torsion)?_
-
- Bloat (otherwise known as "gastric torsion") can be a problem with
- any deep-chested breed like German Shepherds. The stomach twists so
- nothing can pass through the esophagus to the stomach or through
- the stomach to the intestions, causing gas to build up. This is an
- _immediate_ health concern where the dog should be taken to the vet
- or emergency clinic. Signs of bloat include a distended rigid
- abdomen, indications of vomiting with no results and inability to
- belch or pass gas.
-
- High activity directly before or after eating can exacerbate
- bloating. Keeping the dog quiet at least one hour before and after
- eating can help reduce the chances of bloat. Pre-moistening the
- dog's food with water can also reduce the chances, however, without
- the teeth-cleaning help of crunching food, you will want to take
- especially good care of your dog's teeth by weekly tooth-brushing
- and hard biscuits to help remove tartar. (Be sure to include any
- treats you give in the balance of food intake. Too many treats may
- cause your dog to gain weight, and treats only may not give the dog
- the nutrition it needs.) Smaller meals can also reduce the risk of
- bloat if you do not free-feed. (Free-fed dogs just need to have
- their activity level watched, but do not usually eat enough at any
- one sitting to cause problems. Bloat is more of a problem with a
- dog that "gulps" its food which a free-fed dog won't usually do.
- Don't leave pre-moistened food down for a free-fed dog too long as
- it can breed bacteria. Instead, leave them smaller portions, but
- refill more frequently.)
-
- _What is the life expectancy of a GSD?_
-
- Most lines of GSDs will live to between 10-13 years of age. 11-12
- years is probably a very reasonable expectation. A GSD becomes
- "middle-aged" between 5-7 years old, and is generally considered
- "geriatric" at about 10. Their food intake and exercise and
- nutrition needs may change over this period of time. They may begin
- to develop stiffness in their joints (much like people do as they
- get older). Healthy teeth are important as bacteria from decaying
- teeth can affect the health of the dog.
-
- _I talk to some breeders who tell me to not look at GSDs from
- American bloodlines. I talk to some who tell me that I shouldn't look
- at GSDs from German bloodlines. Who's right and who's wrong?_
-
- Both and neither. There are some fairly distinct general
- differences between the two lines, and there are some breeders
- trying to breed for "the best of both worlds" by crossing American
- lines with German. The best thing you can do is determine what you
- want from your German Shepherd Dog and want to do with him/her, and
- find a line and breeder that breeds for those traits in a
- responsible manner.
-
- German Shepherds from American lines are typically longer and
- leaner than GSDs from German lines. Often GSDs from American
- bloodlines are taller as well.
-
- American GSD lines tend to have sharp angulation in the hind
- quarters, more so than any other breed. This angulation allows them
- to move seemingly without touching the ground. American lines tend
- to be bred for elegance and nobility. A well-bred GSD from American
- lines is calm, discriminating and intelligent: never fearful. They
- are often less active and less dominant than their German
- counterparts which can make them better pets for the potential
- owner looking solely for a good companion, especially novice
- owners.
-
- To the negative side of GSDs from American lines, many lines lack
- working ability or drive. If you're interested in any kind of work
- or sport activity with your dog, look for a breeder who tests
- working aptitude in their breeding stock. (Aptitude can be tested
- separately from actually taking the dog to trials and competing in
- events.) The AKC does not require breeding dogs be able to work or
- have any titles.
-
- Bad examples of German Shepherd type may appear spindly and
- unbalanced when they move. Such poor movers can have trouble with
- jumps and tight turns required in various sports. Some GSDs of this
- type are nervous and spooky.
-
- German line GSDs are generally stockier than their American
- counterparts and more moderate in both structure and movement
- without the severe angulation found in American lines. They may not
- appear as graceful and dignified but instead have an air of
- muscular agility. German lines typically produce high-energy,
- high-intensity dogs.
-
- German breeding stock is required to pass minimum standards for
- both conformation and working ability, so dogs from German lines
- rarely lacking intelligence. However, the dogs from some bloodlines
- pass working tests by being aggressive and "sharp" without
- discrimination which does not lead them to be good working dogs.
-
- A poor-quality German-line German Shepherd may be too heavily built
- for real agility and/or may have a temperament that isn't suitable
- for any but the most experienced owner. Dominant aggression is more
- likely to be found in these lines than fear aggression. Some
- breeders breed for size and aggression rather than a well-rounded,
- well-tempered dog.
-
- Hip certification in Germany follows different rules and guidelines
- than that of the OFA. Dogs are x-rayed at one year of age rather
- than two years, and hips are rated "A-normal", "fast normal" or
- "noch zugelassen". Hips rated NZ may not pass OFA certification.
-
- Good examples of either German or American lines should be highly
- intelligent, trainable and extremely loyal to their families. All
- German Shepherds, regardless of their ancestry, should be bred for
- good health and stable temperaments.
-
- Both German and American lines have their passionate advocates, but
- the decision of what bloodlines to purchase is ultimately a matter
- of taste, need and expectations.
-
- You will find fans of the American lines who will tell you that all
- German dogs are ugly and brutally aggressive, and some lovers of
- German lines would have you believe that American dogs are unsound,
- stupid, and cowardly. Both of these extremes are exaggerated:
- Healthy, mentally sound dogs can be found in either bloodline. The
- most important thing is to find a good breeder whom you trust and
- whose breeding stock (both the chosen sire and dam) fits your
- lifestyle, regardless of style or registry.
-
- If you are interested in showing your dog in the AKC conformation
- ring with the intention of getting a championship, you are probably
- better off looking at American lines. It will be difficult if not
- impossible to win with a German Shepherd from German lines.
- American (AKC) GSDs from responsible breeders are bred with an eye
- to what the AKC breed standard demands and what AKC conformation
- judges reward. A German line GSD may be beautiful but still won't
- be right for the AKC show ring.
-
- If you are more interested in competing in Schutzhund, training for
- protection work, herding, or other working discipline, you may be
- better getting a GSD from German lines. There are American dogs who
- have the courage and drive, but their ancestors may not have
- competed for the last 6 or 8 generations. All of the German dog's
- ancestors have been selected for working ability, so you have a
- greater chance of finding a suitable puppy without having to test
- litter after litter. Also, since a breeder of German lines is more
- likely to be involved in working disciplines, you will know someone
- who can mentor you.
-
- Given the above generalizations, choose the type more suitable to
- your needs, lifestyle and abilities. If you do your "homework" in
- researching breeders to find someone who is responsibly selecting
- and testing their breeding stock to produce healthy, well-tempered
- German Shepherds, you are far more likely to end up with a puppy
- who fits your expectations more comfortably. Be totally open and
- honest with your breeder in your desires so s/he can help you
- select the right puppy for you. Any GSD physically and mentally
- capable of the work should be able to be trained and compete
- successfully in obedience, agility, tracking, herding and other
- disciplines, and any well-bred GSD should make an excellent
- companion.
-
- _Do German Shepherds shed a lot?_
-
- Yes. The GSD is a "double-coated" dog with an undercoat and guard
- hairs. The guard hairs will be shed all year. The undercoat is
- "blown" twice a year.
-
- _What about long-coated GSDs?_
-
- "The correct GSD coat is relatively short with an obvious
- undercoat. As such it is quite waterproof. Some dogs are born with
- long coats which usually, though not always, are devoid of
- undercoat. Such coats are less useful and more difficult to groom,
- but many pet owners seem to like the long-coated version. Thus
- there is not strong selection against it, though very few breeders
- would deliberately breed from long-coated stock. The normal coat is
- dominant to the long version, so there are three kinds of dog:
- normal, normal but carrying the long coat gene, and long. About 10%
- of the pups are born long-coated." (1)
-
- This being said, if you don't intend to show your dog in
- conformation, there's no reason to avoid the long-coated GSD.
- Long-coated GSDs can and do compete in obedience and other working
- disciplines. You should be aware, however, that the longer coat
- does require more attention when grooming.
-
- _Are GSDs smart and easy to train?_
-
- Yes and no to both. Most GSDs are eager and willing to learn and
- enjoy training sessions (don't overdo with a young pup - they just
- don't have the attention span). If you start young and teach your
- puppy its order in your "pack", problems with training will be
- minimized. However, GSDs tend to have more dominant personalities
- than some breeds and can be stubborn, so some care in training is
- recommended. Classes are extremely beneficial. A GSD that thinks
- it's the Alpha member of the pack can be a big handful.
-
- _My adolescent GSD is limping! What should I do?_
-
- Don't panic. You probably *do* want to take your pup into a vet
- certified in orthopedic problems and reading x-rays just to make
- sure you can eliminate hip and elbow dysplasia from the cause of
- the problem. (Of course, that's true of all GSD puppies since early
- diagnosis/treatment of dysplasia is important to your puppy's
- healthy life even if you don't plan on breeding.) But... most
- likely the vet will confirm that your pup has panosteitis, an
- inflammation of the long bones in the legs of adolescent pups. It's
- fairly common in GSDs. It's also known as "long bone disease",
- "shifting leg lameness" and "growing pains". "Pano" can be detected
- and diagnosed by x-ray.
-
- Onset can be from 5-12 months (occasionally later) and last until
- 18 months or more. Though it is uncomfortable for the puppy, it
- almost always grows out of it. The lameness need not be limited to
- one leg. Pano is generally considered to be a polygenic trait with
- limited heretibility (1).
-
- _What is a "gay tail"?_
-
- A GSD that carries its tail naturally higher than its body is said
- to have a "gay tail". Many Northern breeds such as Samoyeds are
- bred to carry their tails high. It is a fault in GSDs.
-
- _Why do GSDs have a reputation of being vicious?_
-
- In the 1950s, GSDs became the most popular dog in the AKC registry.
- As a result, many breedings were made without regard to pedigree
- history and inbreeding caused many personality problems. Reputable
- breeders will usually not allow inbreeding at least 3 generations
- back in the puppy's pedigree.
-
- Inbreeding and linebreeding can be beneficial in a breeding program
- if a breeder practices them carefully. Desireable traits can be
- strengthened, but undesireable traits and faults may be brought
- forth as well. If you notice inbreeding or linebreeding in the
- pedigree, question the breeder as to why and what the perceived
- advantages were. Breeders practicing these breedings should be able
- to give reasonably educated answers as to why.
-
- _Why is a white GSD disqualified from the show ring in many clubs?_
-
- The GSD was bred and developed as a herding dog. A pure white coat
- is not readily visible on snowy hillsides and sheep seem to respond
- better to colored dogs. As a guard dog, white is too visible. Also,
- top breeders have bred against a white color for a lengthy amount
- of time, so the gene pool of white GSDs is very limited and
- inbreeding can be a problem.
-
- _What is an average size litter?_
-
- An average size litter for a GSD is seven to eight puppies.
-
- _What is the difference between a GSD and an Alsatian?_
-
- There is no difference. After each of the World Wars, anything
- German fell out of popular favor. To avoid the use of the word
- German, "Alsatian" (from the Alsace-Lorraine area) was used. In
- some countries, GSDs are still known as Alsations. The name in
- Germany is Deustche Schaferhund which means "German Shepherd Dog".
- The word "Dog" is part of the name.
-
- _Why is the word "dog" used in the breed name for GSDs and not for
- other breeds?_
-
- The name in Germany is Deustche Schaferhund which means "German
- Shepherd Dog". The word "Dog" is actually part of the breed's name
- unlike other breeds.
-
- _What is Schutzhund?_
-
- Schutzhund is German for "protection dog", but it also refers to a
- training discipline and dog sport involving 3 phases; obedience,
- tracking and protection. It is supposed to be a fun experience for
- both the dog and the handler. If it isn't for one or the other,
- don't consider it. Find another activity. Schutzhund is not the be
- all and end all of training. See the section on Schutzhund (often
- notated as SchH) for more information. (Also, as of this writing, a
- Schutzhund FAQ is being worked on by some of the subscribers to the
- GSD-L mailing list. See the Resources for information on GSD-L.)
-
- _Is there a club for GSDs in the US or in my area?_
-
- Yes. You can get a packet of information on GSDs, information about
- the United States national club and information on a local club (if
- applicable) can be had by writing to the German Shepherd Dog Club
- of America (address in Resources below). You may be able to find
- out if there's a club in your country from this organization as
- well.
-
- You can also contact the United Schutzhund Club of America (USA)
- (address in Resources below) to get information on GSDs in general,
- about Schutzhund, about conformation shows and Schutzhund trials,
- the Breed Registry and to find a Schutzhund club near you.
-
- Canadians can contact the German Shepherd Dog Club of Canada.
-
- _Is there a mailing list for GSDs?_
-
- Yes! See the Resources section below.
-
- If you have other questions you feel should be answered in this FAQ,
- please write to gsd@cluebus.com (but note that sometimes responses
- take a while due to time constraints)
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Finding Your New GSD (mc/hs)_
-
- You should seek out a reputable breeder when looking for a GSD pup
- because of the health concerns noted above as well as problems in
- temperament brought out in ill-bred GSDs. Poorly-bred GSDs can also be
- aggressive, fearful, or shy-sharp (a fearful dog that becomes
- aggressive when frightened). It is for these reasons that a reputable
- breeder is more likely to have sound pups, guarantee their health,
- help you select the puppy most suited to your lifestyle and goals, and
- be able to guide you as the pup grows. Review the information on
- breeding at Breeding Your Dog FAQ at
- http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeding.html to learn the
- kinds of things a responsible breeder will do.
-
- There are numerous resources to finding a reputable breeder. You can
- contact the GSD Club of America (address in the Resources section),
- your local GSD Club, United Schutzhund Club of America, GSD Club of
- Canada, local obedience schools or even by attending dogs shows and
- talking to people. (Note: Wait until the dog and handler have competed
- to approach them. Nerves and focus may interfere with your impression
- of both the dog and breeder otherwise and distractions before
- competing are unfair to the handler.)
-
- Don't overlook the possibility that a GSD is waiting to be adopted
- from a local shelter or rescue organization. There may also be sound
- GSDs that need homes because of changing family circumstances. When
- adopting a GSD from one of these sources, find out as much as you can
- about the dog's habits and any commands he understands. Taking the
- time to learn about the dog up front greatly improve the chance of
- making a good match between owner and dog, and with a dog that has
- already been displaced, it's important to find a match that will last
- a lifetime. Remember, though, that a GSD that has already been part of
- a family may take up to a few months to adjust completely to his new
- family and bond to his new humans. In return, you may find a dog who
- is already housebroken and at least partly trained to help smooth the
- transition into your home. You can find if there is a rescue
- organization in your area by contacting the national rescue chair
- whose address is located in the Resources section of this FAQ.
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Your New GSD Puppy at Home (hs)_
-
- Commit yourself (and your family) to training your puppy. Use the
- resources of formal class training beginning from about 12 weeks of
- age with a puppy kindergarten class for socialization and early
- training. Move on to more formally structured classes when the pup is
- six months old. Do your homework. Being intelligent and motivated, an
- untrained or ill-trained GSD can prove to be an unacceptable family
- member. Work on subordination and relaxation exercises every day.
-
- Be wary of asking too much physically from a young GSD pup, such as
- jumping, long runs, etc. While your pup is growing, you can damage the
- growth plates or exacerbate a tendency to hip dysplasia. Your puppy
- should be 12-18 months old before any heavy physical demands are
- placed on it.
-
- By 10 weeks of age, your GSD puppy will weigh somewhere around 13-20
- pounds (depending on sex and bloodlines). A GSD will continue to fill
- out until 24-36 months old, but should reach close to full adult
- height by 12 months.
-
- Your new GSD puppy will require a great deal of attention and
- socialization. Between 4-12 months, GSDs can be prone to "adolescent
- shyness". If the dog is well-socialized during prior to this point,
- you can minimize many of the worries that are associated with a shy
- dog. Puppy Kindergarten and obedience classes are highly recommended
- for all dogs, but especially for larger breeds such as the GSD. Expose
- your puppy to as many different experiences as possible, but do not
- allow your puppy to be traumatized.
-
- Although it is very tempting to pet your GSD puppies ears backwards
- away from the nose, it is preferable to not do so until the
- musculature in the ear is fully developed and the ear standing erect.
- Be content with scratching the ear at the base where it meets the
- skull. Your puppy will probably find this very enjoyable anyway.
-
- And don't forget how important puppy immunizations are!
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _History of the GSD (hs(2))_
-
- The GSD is a fairly recent breed in the breeding history of dogs,
- having been developed almost entirely in the 1900s. In the late
- 1880s-early 1890s the first GSD Club, called the Phylax Society, was
- formed in Germany. The club survived for only a short time. On April
- 3, 1899, Max von Stephanitz and Artur Meyer attended one of the
- earliest dog shows for all breeds ever held in Germany. On that day,
- von Stephanitz purchased a herding dog he observed at the show, and he
- and Meyer decided to form the Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde, S.V.
- Von Stephanitz was named the organization's first president and
- remained so until his death in 1936. The dog he purchased that day,
- Horand von Grafrath (previously Hektor Linksrhein) was designated
- S.Z.1, the first GSD to be registered with the Verein. The Verein
- became a driving force in the canine world and the largest specialty
- club with 50,000 members and over 600 affiliated clubs.
-
- The Verein started to keep a stud book immediately (marked by an S.Z.
- number) and began to circulate a semi-monthly newsletter. It held
- annual "Sieger" shows at which one dog and bitch were selected as
- Sieger and Siegerin. The Verein and von Stephanitz held a tight rein
- on GSD breeding throughout Germany, holding jurisdiction on which dogs
- and bitches could be used for breeding, which could be bred to one
- another, the number of puppies that could be kept and raised from each
- litter and age limitations on breeding stock. The von Stephanitz motto
- "utility and intelligence" was key.
-
- Though herding was the GSDs original purpose, von Stephanitz
- recognized the importance of expanding the breed's usefulness in other
- directions and persuaded the government (amid some amusement) to use
- the GSD in police and military work. GSDs went on to become the first
- dogs used as Guide Dogs for the blind.
-
- The GSD lost popularity in the United States during each of the World
- Wars, but recovered directly after, mostly attributed to soldiers
- returning from Europe with GSDs. Rin Tin Tin was actually a dog that
- was brought to America after World War I by a soldier named Larry
- Baker. In Germany, the dog was used as a military dog during each of
- the wars.
-
- The first German Shepherd registered with the AKC was Queen of
- Switzerland, registered in 1908.
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _German Pedigrees, Working Degrees and Ratings (mc/cm/jm/dp)_
-
- In Germany, there is much more emphasis on the working abilities of
- the GSD, in keeping with Max von Stephanitz's vision of developing a
- dog with "a highly developed sense of smell, enormous courage,
- intrepidness, agility and, despite its aggressiveness, great
- obedience."
-
- Before the turn of the century, there were many informal training
- contests in Europe. Max von Stephanitz formalized the competitions
- under the auspices of the SV - Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde (GSD
- Club of Germany) and included tests of performance in tracking,
- obedience, and protection. These tests are what we know today as
- Schutzhund. (See the section on Schutzhund for more information.)
-
- Unlike the AKC which simply registers all dogs born of AKC registered
- parents, for a litter in Germany to be officially registered both its
- parents must have working titles and at least a "G" (Good)
- conformation rating. The SV will register litters from parents it
- doesn't consider "suitable for breeding" if the above requirements are
- met. For an adult dog to compete in conformation shows or be
- recommended for breeding, it must first have a working title (@).
- (Most have Schutzhund titles.) The exception to this is that an adult
- dog may compete once in a lifetime in the non-titled adult dog class.
- Adolescents and puppies do not need working titles to compete in
- conformation.
-
- (@) The work done to achieve the titles must include tracking,
- obedience and protection, and must be accepted by the VDH (Verein fur
- Deutsche Hundeswessen). These include SchH and IPO. PH, DH, DPO and
- German Narcotics and Bomb dogs are accepted, but the dog is a real
- working dog or must actually have done the work for a year. Tending
- style herding (for which the dogs were originally bred) is also
- accepted (HGH) is also included, though it does not have a tracking
- segment. It does have a protection segment. The dog must perform a
- courage test. No AKC titles are accepted as they do not include a
- courage test. The SV standard calls for the desire to protect. French
- Ring is not accepted by the VDH.
-
- For an adult GSD to compete in the annual Sieger show (the premier
- German show), the dog must be free of hip dysplasia (*) and have
- earned a Schutzhund I, II, or III title. The dogs are first judged in
- two categories: conformation and courage; those that pass move on to
- compete for the Sieger (dog) and Siegerin (bitch) titles. The dogs are
- judged by physical characteristics, temperament, and movement, and
- their pedigrees are examined.
-
- (*) Dogs are x-rayed at one year of age and are given certifications
- of "a-normal", "fast-normal" or "noch-zugelassen", designating
- "normal", "nearly normal" and "mild hip dysplasia, still permissable
- to breed". (This lowest certification is generally not seen in show
- and breeding dogs.) Although there are no verifiable statistics, it is
- generally accepted that "a-normal" dogs will OFA at "Good" or better,
- "fast-normal" will generally, but not always OFA, and
- "noch-zugelassen" dogs will OFA only occasionally.
-
- German pedigrees have an "a-stamp" (literally a stamp) in the lowest
- right corner of the pedigree and the actual hip rating for that
- individual is hand-written on that stamp, so it is easy to verify the
- actual hip rating of the dog whose pedigree you have in front of you.
- Unfortunately, all the other ancestors only have the anonymous
- designation of an "a" ZUERKANNT, which only indicates that the
- ancestor was x-rayed and falls within the SV standard of "acceptable
- for breeding". It does not, therefore, indicate what the specific hip
- rating of the ancestor is/was, either normal, fast-normal or
- noch-zugelassen. Unfortunately, many people seem to think the "a"
- ZUERKANNT designation implies a hip rating of normal when in truth, it
- may signify any of the levels.
-
- German Titles And Ratings
-
- (Note: These titles cover all breeds, not just GSDs. A ranking of 3 is
- the highest.)
-
- _*_
- Used farther back in pedigrees to save room and denotes kkl-l or
- kkl-II.
- Before a dog's name, indicates dog has been surveyed and approved for
- breeding
-
- _a_
- "a" stamp indicating the dog's hips have been evaluated and fall
- within limits
- considered acceptable for breeding
-
- _A_
- Ausreichend
- Sufficient show or performance rating
-
- _AD_
- Ausdauerpruefung
- Endurance title (test includes a 12-mile run & simple obedience test)
-
- _Angekoert_
- Recommended for breeding
-
- _BH_
- German Companion Dog
- Must precede SchH I
-
- _BlH_
- Blindenhund
- Blind guide dog
-
- _BpDH I, II_
- Bahnpolizei Diensthund
- Railroad police service dog
-
- _DH_
- Diensthund
- Service dog
-
- _FH_
- Fahrtenhund
- Most advanced tracking title awarded by the SV
-
- _G_
- Gut
- Good show or performance rating
-
- _GRH_
- Grenzenhund
- Border patrol dog
-
- _HGH_
- Herdengebrauchshund
- Herding dog
-
- _IPO I, II, III_
- Schutzhund III according to the international rules
-
- _KKL I_
- Koerklasse I
- Especially recommended for breeding
-
- _KKL II_
- Koerklasse II
- Suitable for breeding
-
- _KrH_
- Kriegshund
- War dog
-
- _LawH_
- Lawinenhund
- Avalanche dog
-
- _Lbz_
- Lebenszeit
- Breed surveyed for lifetime
-
- _M_
- Mangelhaft
- Faulty show or performance rating
-
- _MH_
- Meldehund
- Dispatch Army dog (messenger dog)
-
- _PDH_
- Polizei Dienst Hund
- Working Police dog
-
- _PH_
- Polizeihund
- Police-trained dog
-
- _PSP_
- Polizeischutzhundprufung
- Police protection dog
-
- _SchH I, II, III_
- Schutzhund
- Obedience, tracking, and protection titles
-
- _SG_
- Sehr Gut
- Very Good show or performance rating;
- highest rating obtainable by dogs under 2 years old or at USA SchH
- shows,
- the highest rating that can be obtained by an untitled dog
-
- _SH_
- Sanitatshund
- Red Cross dog
-
- _SH_
- Suchhund
- Tracking dog
-
- _U_
- Ungenugend
- Unsatisfactory show or performance rating
-
- _V_
- Vorzuglich
- Excellent show or performance rating
-
- _VA_
- Vorzuglich-Auslese
- Excellent Select show rating at Sieger show;
- highest award obtainable by a German show dog;
- typically awarded to 12-15 dogs and bitches each year
-
- _VH_
- Vorhanden
- Sufficient show or performance rating
-
- _ZB_
- Zuchtbewertung
- Conformation show rating
-
- _ZH I, II_
- Zollhund I, II
- Customs dog
-
- _ZPr_
- Zuchtpruefung
- Passed a breed survey, recommended for breeding
-
- _CACIB_
- European International Champion
-
- _Bundesieger_
- Working Dog Champion of the Year (Leistungssieger)
-
- _Europameister_
- World Champion SchH III dog
-
- _Hutesiger_
- Herding Dog Champion at German herding dog championship
-
- _Leistungssieger_
- Working Dog Champion of the Year (Bundesieger)
-
- _Preishuten Sieger_
- Sheepherding Champion of the Year
-
- _Sieger_
- Grand Victor title at the German Sieger show
-
- _Siegerin_
- Highest Sieger bitch title
-
- Dogs are also rated and must achieve an G (good), SG (very good), V
- (excellent), or VA (excellent select) rating to be breed, as well as
- hip certification and a working degree.
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Schutzhund (cm)_
-
- Schutzhund is a German dog sport. It translates into "protection dog".
-
- The purpose of Schutzhund training is to assess and mold the dog's
- natural abilities to track, protect, and teach the dog control through
- obedience. It has been considered by some to be a test for breeding in
- that during the training the degree to which the dog possesses these
- working abilities becomes apparent. There are three degrees of
- Schutzhund training: SchH1 or novice; SchH2 or intermediate; and SchH3
- or advanced.
-
- To be eligible to do Schutzhund training, it is essential that the dog
- have a sound temperament. It cannot be shy, sharp shy, vicious, or
- have poor nerves (that is easily rattled). A responsible trainer will
- never train a dog with poor temperament in Schutzhund. It is also
- important that the trainer know when to back down and when to admit
- ignorance in order to keep from ruining a dog.
-
- Good socialization during puppyhood is critical. Poorly socialized
- dogs will have problems getting started and will require more ground
- work.
-
- The tracking is very similar to the AKC TD and TDX, except the dog is
- penalized for quartering (that is sniffing from side to side down the
- track). This phase of training can be started when the dog is about
- five months old.
-
- The obedience portion is very similar to that of the AKC CDX work
- except it is done on a large field as opposed to a small ring. This is
- for SchH1. For SchH2 and 3 obedience, the dog has to scale a 6 foot
- tall slanted wall to retrieve a dumbell in addition to the SchH1
- exercises. The dog is expected to do the work with greater precision
- at the more advanced levels. This portion of the training is usually
- started in earnest at about 12 months of age. Basic puppy training is
- always a good idea.
-
- The protection phase consists of developing the dog's natural
- protective instincts, and teaches it control in full drive through
- obedience exercises. The protection phase is best started no earlier
- than 15 months of age. The dog needs to have developed emotionally as
- well as physically and mentally.
-
- Schutzhund training is very time consuming and requires a committment
- from the owner. The length of time it takes to attain a SchH1 title
- will depend upon the dog's abilities and the time committment made by
- the owner. This can range from three months under ideal conditions
- (two times tracking/wk; four times/wk of obedience; four times/wk of
- protection) to three years if the training is sporadic or of poor
- quality.
-
- There is a difference between Schutzhund Training and a Schutzhund
- Trial. When done properly the training is a good test of the dog. A
- strong dog doesn't always do well at trials because they can be a bit
- obstinate during the obedience phase. A dog that scores well may not
- be a good dog.
-
- In Germany, the two largest Schutzhund organizations are the SV (GSD
- Dog Club) and the DVG (German Alliance for Utility Dog Sports). In
- 1975, the first Schutzhund organization in the US, United Schutzhund
- Club of America (USA), was formed. Soon after, an American branch of
- the DVG formed. The USA's address and phone numbers are in the
- Resources section. (Breeding requirements for the United Schutzhund
- Clubs of America include a minimum of an "a" stamp and BH (German
- Companion Dog).
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Health Concerns (mc/hs/cm/lm/kc)_
-
- Due to the breed's versatility, the GSD has become a very popular pet.
- This is a mixed blessing. While many people truly enjoy the pleasure a
- well-bred and well-trained GSD adds to their lives, others have been
- attracted to the breed primarily to make money. A well-bred GSD is a
- remarkable dog, but a GSD from a disreputable breeder, accidental
- breeding, or someone trying to recoup their initial investment, can be
- a nightmare. Without careful consideration of genetic, temperament,
- and physical characteristics, the resulting litter can be plagued with
- serious health and temperament problems.
-
- Health disorders (some genetic) seen in GSDs (some are explained in
- more detail below):
-
- _Key:_
- d = dominant
- r = recessive
- p = polygenic
- % = may not always be genetic
- ^ = suspected genetic
- ? = unknown
-
- _achalasia (r)_
- dilated esophagus; vomiting begins at weaning
-
- _ankylosis (?)_
- fusing of vertebrae in tail (or spine) reducing range of motion
-
- _aubaortic stenosis (?)_
-
- _bilateral cataract (d)_
- opague lens form in both eyes, usually after 2 years
-
- _calcium gout (^)_
- calcium gout, lumps in skin caused by calcium deposits
- (calcinosis circumscripta)
-
- _cerebellar hypoplasia (^)_
- abnormal gait and loss of control starting at 12 weeks
-
- _chronic pancreatitis (^)_
- lack of enzymes that digest fat and protein;
- chronic weight loss
-
- _cleft lip and palate (%)_
- nonclosure of bones of upper jaw and roof of mouth
-
- _corneal dermoid cyst (^)_
- congenital cyst on eye surface
-
- _cryptorchidism (^)_
- undescended testicle(s)
-
- _cystinuria (r)_
- high cystine in urine; prone to stone formation (males only)
-
- _degenerative myelopathy (?)_
- spinal degeneration in older dogs
- (Chronic Degenerative Radiculomyleopathy - CDRM)
-
- _diabetes mellitus (r)_
- onset of insulin deficiency at 2-6 months
-
- _distichiasis (^)_
- extra row of eyelashes irritate eye
-
- _ectasia (r)_
- optic nerve/retina abnormalities (aka "Collie eye")
-
- _elbow dysplasia (d)_
- progressive developmental deformity of elbow joints,
- symptomless to crippling
- (see ununited anchoneal process)
- may be polygenic
-
- _eosinophilic colitis (^)_
- chronic bouts of diarrhea
-
- _eosinophilic myositis (?)_
- acute, relapsing inflammation of the muscles
-
- _epilepsy (r)_
- recurrent seizures onset between 1-3 years old
-
- _hemophelia a (r)_
- (factor VIII deficiency) slowed blood clotting, hemorrhages
-
- _hip dysplasia (p)_
- progressive developmental deformity of hip joints,
- symptomless to crippling
-
- _intervertebral disc disease (^)_
- slipped disc, pain, weakness to paralysis of limbs
-
- _malabsorption syndrome (^)_
- inability to absorb digested food leads to starvation
-
- _nictitating membrane eversion (r)_
- third eyelid rolls back; treated surgically
-
- _osteochondritis dessicans (^)_
- growth disorder of shoulder cartilage; pain, lameness (OCD)
-
- _pannus (^)_
- vessels, skin and pigment migrate over eye surface, leading to
- blindness
-
- _panosteitis (^)_
- acute shifting lameness of growing dogs,
- deep bone pain,
- self-limiting
-
- _patent ductus arteriosus (p)_
- aortal development defect in fetus,
- loud heart murmur,
- exercise intolerant
-
- _perianal fistuala (^)_
- open draining tracts around anus
-
- _peripheral vestibular disease (?)_
- defect of the middle ear causing puppies to circle
-
- _pituitary dwarfism (^)_
- normally proportioned dwarf, mentally retarded, usually fatal
-
- _renal cortical hypoplasia (^)_
- degeneration of both kidneys, beginning at about 1 year
-
- _retinal atrophy (^)_
- (generalized) PRA
- retina degenerates causing first night blindness then total blindness
-
- _right aortic arch (p)_
- abnormal artery constricts esophagus, vomiting
-
- _soft ears (r)_
- weak ear musculature
-
- _spondylosis deformans (^)_
- spinal arthritis
-
- _ununited anchoneal process (d)_
- elbow dysplasia; pain and limp in front legs
-
- _von Willebrand's disease (d)_
- bleeding disorder
-
- Detail for some disorders mentioned above...
-
- _Degenerative Myelopathy_
- This condition is relatively common among GSDs. It can appear in a
- young dog, but generally appears from middle age. The degeneration
- occurs over time, beginning with hind limb weakness. Eventually other
- weakness can occur, including the lower portion of the esopheogus,
- which makes complete swallowing difficult and can lead to recurrent
- pneumonias. Although initial signs resemble hip dysplasia, in
- actuality, it is the degeneration of the spinal cord rather than hip
- joints.
-
- _Elbow Dysplasia_
- Elbow dysplasia is characterized by an onset of severe lameness at
- between 4 and 6 months of age. It almost always affects only one of
- the elbows but occasionally will affect both. There are three
- different types of elbow dysplasia: UAP (ununited anconeal process),
- FCP (fractured coronoid process), and OCD (osteochondrosis). OCD more
- resembles arthritis in the elbow that may or may not be brought on by
- trauma or looseness of ligamentation at the elbow. Final diagnosis can
- only be made by radiograph. OFA now certifies elbows as well as hips.
- (See OFA Information and Statistics)
-
- _Epilepsy_
- This may possibly be genetically transmitted. At the least, the
- tendency exists in a few lines. The disorder may not express itself
- until the dog is about three to four years old. There is no way of
- testing for the disease until the dog has a seizure. (cm)
-
- _Hip Dysplasia_
- The hip joint is not constructed properly, usually with a shallow
- acetabulum. Dysplastic dogs can vary from minor problems to severe
- dislocation of the hips. This condition is generally considered to be
- inherited. Breeding stock should be OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for
- Animals) certified (look for an OFA number) or given an "A"
- certificate if from Germany. (Canada OVC) Current statistics indicate
- that over 20% of x-rays sent in for OFA certification fail. (See OFA
- Information and Statistics.)
-
-
- Although HD is thought to have a genetic base, pedigree, diet,
- exercise and so forth can play a role in the extent that the dog
- exhibits a existing predisposition to HD. Even dogs from long lines of
- certified parents can still produce HD puppies. The inheritance factor
- of HD is not fully known. This is why it has so far been impossible to
- eradicate the condition and why even pups from long lines of certified
- parents can still have HD. However, pups from generations of certified
- dogs are less likely to have HD.
-
- _There is recent information on HD from Cornell's Animal Health
- Newsletter that specifically discusses the latest HD info (as of
- March, 1994). Although I have chosen to not include it here (due to
- length), HD is a prevalent problem and big issue in GSD breeding.
- The more you read about HD, the better. -hs_
-
- _Pannus_
- (Chronic Superficial Keratitis (inflammation)) Pannus is an eye
- condition in which blood vessels grow onto the cornea. It can lead to
- blindness if untreated. It is not curable, but is controllable with
- medication. Some studies suggest an autoimmune problem. (lm)
-
- _Panosteitis_
- (Commonly called "long bone disease," "wandering lameness," or simply
- "pano.") Generally seen between 5-12 months of age, it is caused by
- excessive bone production on the long bones. Dogs will generally grow
- out of the problem, but it is a painful condition. Pano is, for
- unknown reasons, common in GSDs. If the dog is x-rayed during a bout
- of pano, lesions on the growth plates will be visible. However, pano
- leaves no lasting ill affects on a dog. Diet is thought to play a
- role. High protein puppy diets may make the puppy grow too fast and
- increase the chance of the pup experiencing pano (sometimes described
- as "growing pains"). Pano is also called "Shifting Leg Lameness" as it
- can show up in any leg and may come and go without warning. Pups
- usually completely outgrow Pano by 18 months. Enforced rest is usually
- prescribed. Painkillers are contraindicated since the pup will play
- more without pain, and may exacerbate the condition.
-
- _Peripheral Vestibular Disease_
- A congenital defect of the middle ear. Puppies will generally circle
- in an unbalanced way, holding their head back or to one side. Dogs
- rarely recover, and as afflicted adults, there will still be some head
- tilt.
-
- _Soft Ears_
- Though all GSDs are born with floppy ears, normal ears will begin to
- stand erect in the 2nd or 3rd month. Some ears will never develop the
- musculature to stand erect. This is an inherited recessive trait.
- Though soft ears primarily affects a dog's showability (hanging ears
- are a disqualification), soft-eared GSDs are also more prone to ear
- infections.
-
- _Von Willebrand's Disease_
- A blood disease that can include mucosal bleeding. It is an inherited
- dominant condition. Requires clinical blood testing to distinguish it
- from other conditions. Results of breeding two VWD dogs are lethal.
- VWD is autosomal and not sex-linked.
-
- NOTE: Although these disorders are found in GSDs, they are not
- necessarily found only in GSDs, nor are they necessarily common.
- Though this list may seem a bit intimidating, a good look into any
- breed will reveal a substantial list of health problems that may be
- common to that breed. This list shouldn't scare you away from GSDs,
- rather, it should encourage you to find a reputable breeder who is
- aware of/knowledgeable about these conditions and does their best
- to keep their breeding program free of these problems.
-
- ___________________________________
-
- OFA Information and Statistics on GSD Hip and Elbow Dysplasia (rn*)
-
- The OFA's home page and database (interactive queries) is at
- http://206.29.98.50/ofa/index2.htm
-
- This section is Copyright (c) 1995 by Robin Nuttall and may not be
- posted, printed or reproduced in any medium without explicit
- written permission of the author. Robin may be reached at
- robin_nuttall@muccmail.missouri.edu.
-
- _Hip Dysplasia
-
- _GSDs are listed as 23rd of 100 breeds having at least 100
- evaluations, tested between January 1974 and January 1995.
-
- German Shepherd Dog: 46,089 tested
- 2.8% tested excellent
- 20.8% tested dysplastic
-
- GSD whelped 1972-80: 2.5% tested excellent
- 20.7% tested dysplastic
-
- GSD whelped 1991-92: 4.1% tested excellent
- 16.8% tested dysplastic
-
- GSDs reduced the frequency of HD by 10-20% between 1974 and 1995. Only
- 4 breeds increased the frequency of HD: Afgan hound, Flat-coated
- Retriever, Kerry Blue Terrier and Komondor.
-
- _OFA's Recommended Breeding Principals_
- 1. Breed normals to normals
- 2. Breed normals with normal ancestry
- 3. Breed normals from litters with a low incidence of HD
- 4. Select a sire that produces a low incidence of HD
- 5. Replace dogs with dogs that are better than the breed average
-
- OFA is especially interested/concerned in HD in littermates. Their
- contention is that a dog with excellent hips that has littermates with
- HD is a poorer breeding prospect than a dog with fair hips whose
- littermates have no HD.
-
- _Elbow Dysplasia
-
- _Sixteen breeds have had at least 75 individuals tested as of December
- 31, 1994. These are divided by sex, % dysplastic and % of each grade
- of dysplasia. Because different breeds have different numbers that
- have been tested, it is hard to assign a "most dysplastic" number to
- them. Note: In all breeds, more bitches have been tested than males,
- yet in almost every case, dogs have had a higher incidence of ED.
-
- GSD: Females: 2940 tested
- 18.2% dysplastic... 68.7% Grade I
- 22.0% Grade II
- 9.3% Grade III
- Males: 2156 tested
- 23.9% dysplastic... 67.2% Grade I
- 20.9% Grade II
- 11.8% Grade III
-
- Grade I: minimal bone change on the aconeal process
- Grade II: additional subchondral bone changes and/or osteophytes
- Grade III: well developed degenerative joint disease
-
- _Categories for Dysplasia
-
- _ Normal (receive OFA certification numbers)
- Excellent
- Good
- Fair
- Borderline (recommend repeat study in 6-8 months)
- Dysplastic
- Mild
- Moderate
- Severe
-
- _OFA Number Interpretation
-
- _Numbers are interpreted as follows: _BBBxxxPmmS-T_
-
- _BBB_
- Breed code
-
- _xxx_
- Ascending numerical order of normal individuals assigned a
- breed registry number
-
- _P_
- Phenotypic evaluation (observational evaluation)
-
- _mm_
- Age in months when evaluation was done
-
- _S_
- Sex of individual
-
- _T_
- Tattooed
-
- Given the example number _EPT100G24M-T_, it would represent:
- EPT - A Pointer
- 100 - The 100th Pointer to be evaluated
- G - Evaluated as Good
- 24 - 24 months old at the time of evaluation
- M - Male
- T - Tattooed
-
- Correction of Anecdotal Misinformation
-
- 1. There are no environmental factors which cause HD.
- 2. There is no evidence in the scientific literature that megadoses
- of vitamin C or any other supplement is beneficial in reducing the
- effects of HD. (Note from Robin: other OFA publications indicate
- these megadoses may be harmful.)
- 3. High caloric intake resulting in rapid growth and increased weight
- gain may exacerbate changes in dysplastic hips but will not create
- hip dysplasia.
- 4. Exercise, running, jumping up and down, and slick floors will not
- cause HD.
- 5. Prior injuries to the femurs and/or pelvis may be detected
- radiographically and are taken into account when evaluating hip
- status.
-
- Suggestions
-
- 1. _DO YOUR HOMEWORK_: Prospective buyers should check pedigrees for
- OFA numbers prior to purchasing a dog. If an OFA number cannot be
- verified assume the dog to be dysplastic until proven otherwise.
- 2. _PRELIMINARY EVALUATIONS_: Can be performed as early as 4-5 months
- of age and OFA evaluations are about 90% accurate when compared to
- follow-ups at 24 months of age.
- 3. _ANESTHESIA_: Is not required by OFA but is recommended.
- 4. _HORMONAL EFFECT_: Some female dogs show subluxation when
- radiographed around an estrus cycle which is not apparent when
- re-radiographed in anestrus. The OFA recommends radiographing 3-4
- weeks before or after a heat period or 3-4 weeks after weaning a
- litter of pups.
- 5. _FILM COPIES_: Due to optical archiving the OFA can no longer
- supply copies of films. If a copy is necessary ask your
- veterinarian to insert 2 films in the cassette prior to making the
- exposure. This will require about a 15% increase in the kVp to
- make an exact duplicate of the radiograph sent to OFA.
-
- This latest information comes from the pamphlet "Hip Registry".
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Color and Heredity (vj/hs)_
-
- When people think of GSDs, they think of the "saddleback" markings,
- however GSDs can be one solid color (all white is a conformation
- disqualification for showing) and sable. Sables are noted by
- multi-colored individual hairs, though they may be masked by dark or
- black guard hairs. Coloring patterns include: black & tan, black &
- red, black & cream, black, white (conformation disqualification),
- sable (various colorations), black & silver, liver (rare -
- conformation fault) and blue (rare - conformation fault). The liver
- color is the result of matched recessives in the black series. The
- blue color is the result of matched recessives in the dilution series.
- (hs)
-
- The following is a summary of color inheritance in the German Shepherd
- based on information from "The German Shepherd Dog: A Genetic History"
- and "Practical Genetics for Dog Breeders", both by Malcom Willis,
- required reading for any serious German Shepherd fan, especially for
- breeders. (vj)
-
- Color is controlled by several series of genes. Each series is worked
- through in the following:
-
- (x^y designates ^y as a superscript)
-
- _THE AGOUTI SERIES_
-
- The basic body color is controlled by the genes. The order of
- dominance is:
- a^y ... golden sable
- a^w ... grey sable
- a^s ... saddle marked black and tan
- a^t ... bicolor* black and tan
- a ..... black
-
- *bicolor is where the dog only has tan on the legs and face, not on
- the body
-
- The black gene a is recessive to the other colors. Blacks bred to
- blacks will only produce blacks. The sable colors are dominant over
- the other colors.
-
- _THE BLACK SERIES_
-
- This gene controls the black pigment formation.
- BB ... Black pigment including nose, eyerims and pads
- Bb ... Carrier for liver color
- bb ... Liver color - brown black colors, brown nose, eye rims
- and pads.
-
- Most GSDs are BB.
-
- _THE WHITE SERIES_
-
- White is recessive to all other colors. In order get a white coat
- color, both parents must carry the white gene (either be white
- themselves or be carriers.)
- C ............. Melanin is produced. (Standard GSD's colors
- have this)
- C^ch .......... Partial albinism - chinchilla (not seen)
- C^d ........... White coat with dark eyes and nose (not albino)
-
- a^yC^chC^ch ... Yellowish coat collar (proposed)
-
- _THE COLOR SERIES_
-
- Controls the intensity of the non-black coloration.
- INT .... Lightest tan (cream)
- int^m .. Intermediate tan (tan)
- int .... Darkest tan (red)
-
- The intensity of the color series determines whether dogs with color
- (i.e. not all-black or all-white recessives) will be black & cream,
- black & tan or black & red.
-
- _THE DILUTION SERIES_
-
- Controls how intense the black pigment will be.
- D ... Dense pigment
- d ... blue dilution
-
- Bd ... Black pigment-blue dilution together begets a blue coat which
- looks as though it has a dusty or flour sheen.
-
- _THE MASK SERIES_
-
-
- E^m .... Produces a black mask on the face
- E ...... Dark coat with no mask
- e^br ... Brindle (rare, will be seen as striping on the legs)
- e ...... Clear tan
-
- The ee combination affects only the coat and not the nose. The black
- fades to tan. In these dogs, the tail tip will be red, not black.
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _GSD Standards - AKC (2/11/1978) (hs) and British (cm) Comparisons_
-
- ___________________________________
-
- _NOTE (95/08/08): AKC has decided to challenge the copyright over the
- breed standards. Until this silliness and childish "Mine! Mine!" on
- the part of the AKC is over, the AKC breed standard for the GSD will
- not be printed in either the text or webbed version of the FAQ. There
- are many GSD books on the market that contain the standard, and a copy
- can be obtained from the GSD Club of America. Don't bother buying the
- AKC's book with all the standards if all you want is the GSD standard.
- -HS_
-
- _NOTE (96/02/14): AKC has come to their senses slightly and put up the
- GSD standard at http://www.akc.org/germshep.htm. Though this doesn't
- allow for an easy comparison, at least it's something. -HS_
-
- ___________________________________
-
- The British Standard was adopted from several translations of the 1976
- SV Standard. The version listed is the "Extended Version" which
- corresponds to the SV standard. The KC has since shortened it and has
- a copyright to their current version.
-
- _GENERAL APPEARANCE_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The immediate impression of the GSD is of a dog slightly long
- in comparison to its height, with a powerful and well muscled
- body. The relation between height and length and the position
- and symmetry of the limbs (angulation) is so interrelated as to
- enable a far reaching and enduring gait. The coat should be
- weather-proof. A beautiful appearance is desirable, but this is
- secondary to this usefulness as a working dog. Sexual
- characteristics must be well defined - i.e., the masculinity of
- the male and the femininity of the female must be unmistakable.
-
- True to type GSD gives an impression of innate strength,
- intelligence, and suppleness, with harmonious proportions and
- nothing either over done or lacking. His whole manner should
- make it perfectly clear that he is sound in mind and body, and
- has the physical and mental attributes to make him always ready
- for tireless action as a working dog. With an abundance of
- vitality he must be tractable enough to adapt himself to each
- situation and to carry out his work willingly and with
- enthusiasm. He must possess the courage and determination to
- defend himself, his master, or his master's possessions should
- the need arise. He must be observant, obedient, and a pleasant
- member of the household, quiet in his own environment,
- especially with children and other animals, and at ease with
- adults. Overall he should present a harmonious picture of
- innate nobility, alertness, and self-confidence.
-
- _CHARACTER_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The main characteristics of the GSD are: steadiness of nerves,
- attentiveness, loyalty, calm self-assurance, alertness and
- tractability, as well as courage with physical resilience and
- scenting ability. These characteristics are necessary for a
- versatile working dog. Nervousness, over-aggressiveness, and
- shyness are very serious faults.
-
- _HEAD_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The head should be proportional in size to the body without
- being coarse, too fine, or overlong. The overall appearance
- should be clean cut and fairly broad between the ears. Forehead
- should be only very slightly domed with little or no trace of
- center furrow. Cheeks should form a very softly rounded curve
- and should not protrude. Skull extends from the ears to the
- bridge of the nose tapering gradually and evenly, and blending
- without a too pronounced "stop" into a wedge shaped powerful
- muzzle. ( The skull is approximately 50% of the whole length of
- the head.) Both top and bottom jaws should be strong and well
- developed. The width of the skull should correspond
- approximately to the length. In males the width could be
- slightly greater and in females slightly less than the length.
- Muzzle should be strong with the lips firm, clean and closing
- tightly without any flews. The top of the muzzle is straight
- and almost parallel to the forehead. A muzzle which is too
- short, blunt, weak, pointed, overlong or lacking in strength is
- undesirable.
-
- _EARS_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Of medium size, firm in texture, broad at the base, set high,
- they are carried erect (almost parallel and not pulled inward),
- they taper to a point and open toward the front. Tipped ears
- are faulty. Hanging ears are a very serious fault. During
- movement the ears may be folded back.
-
- _EYES_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The eyes are medium sized, almond-shaped and not protruding.
- Dark brown eyes are preferred, but eyes of a lighter shade are
- acceptable provided that the expression is good and the general
- harmony of the head not destroyed. The expression should be
- lively, intelligent, and self-assured.
-
- _TEETH_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_ (MOUTH and TEETH)
- The jaws must be strongly developed and the teeth healthy,
- strong, and complete. There should be 42 teeth: 20 in the upper
- jaw, 6 incisors, 2 canines, 8 premolars, 4 molars; 22 in the
- lower jaw, 6 incisors, 2 canines, 8 premolars, and 6 molars.
- The GSD has a scissor bite - i.e., the incisors in the lower
- jaw are set behind the incisors in the upper jaw, and thus meet
- in a scissor grip in which part of the surface of the upper
- teeth meet and engage part of the surface of the lower teeth.
- (Full and correct dentition is required for a "V" rating.
- Double p1's are acceptable for a "V" rating so long as
- everything else is correct. A missing p1 or incisor results in
- an "SG" rating. A missing p2 results in a "G" rating. Missing
- incisors are quite rare.)
-
- _NECK_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The neck should be fairly long, strong with well-developed
- muscles, free from throatiness (excessive folds of skin at the
- throat) and carried at a 45 degree angle to the horizontal; it
- is raised when excited and lowered at a fast trot.
-
- _FOREQUARTERS_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The shoulder blade should be long, set obliquely (45 degrees)
- and laid flat to the body. The upper arm should be strong and
- well muscled and joined to the shoulder blade at a near right
- angle (90 degrees). The forelegs, from the pasterns to the
- elbows, should be straight viewed from any angle and the bones
- should be oval rather than round. The pasterns should be firm
- and supple and angulated at approximately 20-23 degrees (from
- the vertical). Elbows neither tucked in nor turned out. Length
- of the forelegs should exceed the depth of chest at a ratio of
- approximately 55% to 45%.
-
- _FEET_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Should be rounded, toes well closed and arched. Pads should be
- well cushioned and durable. Nails short, strong, and dark in
- color. Dew claw sometimes found on the hind legs should be
- removed 2-3 days after birth.
-
- _PROPORTION_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_ (HEIGHT)
- The ideal height (measured to the highest point of the wither)
- is 57.5 cm for females and 62.5 cm for males 2.5 cm either
- above or below the norm is allowed. Any increase in this
- deviation detracts from the workability and breeding value of
- the animal.
-
- _BODY_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The length of the body should exceed the height at the wither,
- the correct proportions being at 10 to 9 or 8.5. The length is
- measured from the point of the breast bone to the rear edge of
- the pelvis.
-
- Over or undersized dogs, stunted growth, high-legged dogs and
- overloaded fronts, too short overall appearance, too light or
- too heavy in build, steep set limbs or any other failure which
- detracts from the reach or endurance of the gait are faulty.
-
- _CHEST_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Chest should be deep (45-48% of the height at the shoulder) but
- not too broad. The brisket is long and well developed.
-
- _RIBS_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Ribs should be well formed and long, neither barrel-shaped nor
- too flat; correct rib cage allows free movement of the elbows
- when the dog is trotting. A too rounded rib cage will interfere
- and cause the elbows to be turned out. A too flat rib cage will
- lead to the drawing in of the elbows. The desired long ribbing
- gives a proportionately (relatively) short loin.
-
- _ABDOMEN_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Belly is firm and only slightly drawn up. Loin broad, strong
- and well muscled.
-
- _TOPLINE_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Back is the area between the withers and the croup, straight,
- strongly developed and not too long. The overall length is not
- derived from a long back, but is achieved by the correct angle
- of a well laid shoulder, correct length of croup and
- hindquarters. The withers must be long, of good height and well
- defined. They should join the back in a smooth line without
- disrupting the flowing top line which should be slightly
- sloping from the front to the back. Weak, soft, and roached
- backs are undesirable. (A roach is a clearly defined elevation
- in the center of the back above a horizontal line drawn
- lengthwise at the base of the withers such that the spine
- arches.)
-
- Croup should be long and gently curving down to the tail
- (approximately 23 degrees) without disrupting the flowing
- topline. The illium and sacrum for the skeletal basis of the
- croup. Short, steep, or flat croups are undesirable.
-
- _TAIL_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Bushy haired, should reach at least to the hock joint, the
- ideal length being to the middle of the hock bones. The end is
- sometimes turned sideways with a slight hood; this is allowed
- but not desired. When at rest the tail should hang in a slight
- curve like a sabre. When moving it is raised and the curve
- increased, but ideally it should not be higher than the level
- of the back. A tail that is too short, rolled or curled, or
- generally carried badly or which is stumpy from birth is
- faulty.
-
- _HINDQUARTERS_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- (the leg referenced is the forward hind leg in the stacked
- position) The thighs should be broad and well muscled. The
- upper thigh bone (femur), viewed from the side should slope to
- the slightly longer lower thigh bone. The angulations should
- correspond to the front angulations without being
- over-angulated. The hock bone is strong and together with the
- stifle bone should form a firm hock joint. The hindquarters
- must be strong and well muscled to enable the effortless
- forward propulsion of the whole body. Any tendency toward
- over-angulation of the hindquarters reduces firmness and
- endurance.
-
- _GAIT_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- The GSD is a trotting dog. His sequence of step therefore
- follows a diagonal pattern in that he always moves the foreleg
- and the opposite hind leg forward at the same time. To achieve
- this, his limbs must be in such balance to one another so that
- he can thrust the hind foot well forward to the midpoint of the
- body and have an equally long reach with the fore foot without
- any noticeable change in the back line. The correct proportion
- of the height to length and corresponding length of limbs will
- produce a ground covering stride that travels flat over the
- ground, giving the impression of effortless movement. With his
- head thrust forward and a slightly raised tail, a balanced and
- even trotter displays a flowing line running from the tips of
- his ears over the neck and back down to the tip of the tail.
- The gait should be supple, smooth, and long reaching, carrying
- the body with the minimum of up and down movement, entirely
- free from stiltiness.
-
- _TRANSMISSION_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- (No corresponding item.)
-
- _COLOR_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- Black or black saddle with tan, or gold to light grey markings.
- All black, all grey, or grey with lighter or brown markings
- (Sables). Small white marks on the chest or very pale color on
- the inside of the legs are permitted but not desirable. The
- nose in all cases must be black. Light markings on the chest
- and inside legs, as well as whitish nails, red tipped nails or
- wishy-washy faded color are defined as lacking in pigmentation.
- Blues, livers, albinos, whites, are to be rejected. The
- undercoat is, except in all-black dogs, usually grey or fawn in
- color. The color of the GSD is in itself not important and has
- no effect on the character of the dog or on its fitness for
- work and should be a secondary consideration for that reason.
- The final color of a young dog can only be ascertained when the
- outer coat has developed.
-
- _COAT_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_
- a) The normal (stock) coated GSD should carry a thick undercoat
- and the outer coat should be as dense as possible, made up of
- straight hard close lying hairs. The hair on the head and ears,
- front of the legs, paws and toes is short. On the neck it is
- longer and thicker, on some males forming a slight ruff. The
- hair grows longer on the back of the legs as far down as the
- pastern and the stifle, and forms fairly thick trousers on the
- hindquarters. There is no hard or fast rule for the length of
- the hair, but short mole-type coats are faulty.
-
- b) In the long-coated GSD (long stock coat) the hairs are
- longer, not always straight and definitely not lying close and
- flat to the body. They are distinctly longer inside and behind
- the ears, and on the back of the forelegs and usually at the
- loins, and form a moderate tufts in the ears and profuse
- feathering on the back of the legs. The trousers are long and
- thick. Tail is bushy with light feathering underneath. As this
- type of coat is not so weatherproof as the normal coat it is
- undesirable.
-
- c) In the long open-coated GSD the hair is appreciably longer
- the in the case of the type b and tends to form a parting along
- the back, the texture being somewhat silky. If present at all ,
- undercoat is found only at the loins. Dogs with this type of
- coat are usually narrow chested, with narrow overlong muzzles.
- As the weather protection of the dog and his working ability
- are seriously diminished with this type of coat, it is
- undesirable.
-
- _DISQUALIFICATIONS_
-
- _AKC_
-
- _1976 SV_ (FAULTS)
- Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a
- fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be
- regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.
-
- _1976 SV_ (NOTES)
- All male dogs must have both testicles fully descended into the
- scrotum.
-
-
- Go to Table of Contents
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _Resources (all)_
-
- _Bibliography_
-
- * indicates highly recommended
-
- 2)_The Book of the German Shepherd Dog_. Anna Katherine Nicholas. TFH
- Publications, Inc., Ltd., 1983. ISBN 0-87666-562-8.
-
- _Dogwatching_. Desmond Morris. Crown Publishers, 1987. ISBN
- 0-51756-519-6.
-
- _The Essential German Shepherd Dog_. Roy and Clarissa Allan. Ringpress
- Books, Ltd., 1994,1996. ISBN 0-948955-13-9.
-
- *_The German Shepherd Dog: A Genetic History_. Malcolm B. Willis Ph.D.
- Howell Book House, 1991. ISBN 0-87605-175-1.
-
- The Willis book is fabulous. It is quite technical, with a good
- deal of material on health problems particular to GSD's. Willis is
- opinionated, and pulls no punches when discussing how the breed has
- developed around the world. A very enjoyable book, and worth every
- penny. (lm)
-
- _The German Shepherd Today_. Winifred Strickland & James Moses. Howell
- Book House, 1988. ISBN 0-02-614990-7.
-
- *_How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend_. Monks of New Skete. Little, Brown
- and Co., 1978. ISBN 0-31660-491-7.
-
- The first of the Monks' two books on raising dogs. See note on "The
- Art of Raising a Puppy". (hs)
-
- (1) _Pet Owner's Guide to the German Shepherd Dog_. Dr. Malcom B.
- Willis, Howell Book House, 1993, ISBN 0-87605-978-7
-
- _Schutzhund: Theory and Training Methods_. Susan Barwig and Stewart
- Hilliard. Howell Book House, 1991. ISBN 0-87605-731-8
-
- *_Schutzhund Obedience: Training in Drive with Gottfried Dildei_.
- Sheila Booth. Podium Publications, 1992.
-
- (Available from Direct Book Services @ 1-800-776-2665 or from the
- publisher at Dept A, PO Box 171, Ridgefield, CT 06877.) This book
- is an excellent training guide using motivational methods and the
- dog's drives to teach basic obedience. (mc)
-
- _The Total German Shepherd Dog_. Fred L. Lanting. Alpine Publications,
- Inc. PO Box 7027, Loveland, CO. 1990. ISBN 0-931886-43-X.
-
- _Tracking Dog, Theory and Methods_. Glen Johnson.
-
- _Training the German Shepherd Dog_. John Cree. The Crowood Press. ISBN
- 1-85223-955-7.
-
- ___________________________________
-
- _Addresses_
-
- *
- _The German Shepherd Dog Club of America_
- The GSDCA web page is at http://www.gsdca.org
-
- 30 Far View Road
- Chalmont, PA 18914
-
- Corresponding Secretary
- Blanche Beisswenger
- 17 West Ivy Lane
- Englewood, NJ 07631
- *
- _United Schutzhund Clubs of America (USA)_
- The USA web page is at http://www.igateway.net/~usagsdog/
-
- 3810 Paule Ave.
- St. Louis, MO 63125-1427
- Phone: (314)-638-9686
- Fax: (314)-638-0609
-
- The USA follows the International Standard for the German Shepherd
- Dog, which is the acknowledged standard in almost every (if not
- every) major western country in the world except the United States
- and Canada. They are also a Breed Registry for German Shepherd
- Dogs, affiliated with the SV in Germany. Dogs registered through
- USA are given both a USA number and an SV number, and the pedigree
- issued is processed by the SV in Germany and looks the same as the
- German pedigree. USA has approximately 4000 members and about 164
- clubs around the country, plus an additional 45 or more clubs which
- are in the process of meeting the requirements for full-fledged
- status. Usually this means they have yet to conduct a Schutzhund
- trial or hold a show. The country is divided into geographical
- regions, and each club is allocated to a given region, under a
- regional director.
-
- Effective 1 Jan 1996, for litters to be registerable with the USA,
- both parents must be OFA or "A" certified and both parents must
- have a working title.
- *
- _Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde (SV)_
- Steinerne Furt 71/71a
- D-86167 Augsburg
- Germany
- *
- _The German Shepherd Dog Club of Canada_
- The GSDCC web page is at
- http://juliet.albedo.net/~gsdcc/index.html
- Mail can be sent to: gsdcc@albedo.net
-
- ___________________________________
-
- _GSD Mailing Lists_
-
-
- _GSD-L Mailing list_
-
- To get on the GSD-L email list for GSD fanciers, send mail to
- Eric Happy (ehappy@wwnet.com)
- with a message about your interests in GSDs. (The list has gone to
- an application system for additions due to some problems with users
- not understanding netiquette.) This list is a high volume list and
- can be chatty.
-
- There is a web page for GSD-L at
- http://www.gdconsulting.com.au/GSD/gsd-l.html
-
- If you have questions regarding the mailing list, contact:
- Gareth Davies (gareth@werple.com.au)
- or Eric above.
-
- Please don't contact me about GSD-L. I can only refer you to the
- information above.
-
-
- _GSD-MOD Mailing List_
-
- There is a semi-moderated GSD mailing list (very low traffic) at
- listserv@iupui.edu. The command: _SUBSCRIBE GSD-MOD_ should be the
- first and only line of your mail message.
-
- ___________________________________
-
- _German Shepherd Dog Rescue_
-
- compiled by Janice Ritter (MA Rescue)
-
-
- _German Shepherd Dog Club of America, Inc._
- Linda Kury, Rescue Committee National Chair
- 369 Drake Court
- Santa Clara, CA 95051
- (408) 247-1272
-
- _AK_
- _German Shepherd Dog Club of Alaska_
- Bonnie Johnson and Christa Burg
- P.O. Box 670266
- Chugiak, AK 99567
- (907) 688-2352
-
- _AZ_
- _Ron and Margaret Nunnally_
- PO Box 19696
- Happy Jack, AZ (Phoenix area)
- (602) 477-2216
-
- _CA_
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Grace Konosky
- 417 N. Moss St.
- Burbank, CA 91502
- (818) 558-7560
- (full service rescue)
-
-
- _Monica Royalty_
- (909) 674-8363
-
-
- _Pat Stevens_
- (510) 790-9123 (central CA)
-
- _
- Manuel Madena_
- (714) 491-9177 (southern CA)
-
-
- _Linda Baker_
- (805) 297-1002
-
-
- _Tracy Beagin_
- (916) 783-6680
-
-
- _Dorathy Stansbury_
- 4660-Mayapan Dr.
- La Mesa, CA 91941
- (619) 447-6963
-
-
- _Analee Nations_
- 3420 Luna Av
- San Diego, CA 92117
- (619) 274-8132
-
-
- _Jim Silzeira_
- 4685 Cheshire St
- San Diego, CA 92117
- (619) 576-1016
-
-
- _Trina Nagia Collinwood_
- 3061 Grand Av
- Fillmore, CA 93015
- (805) 524-2774
- (full-service rescue)
-
-
- _Linda Liederknecht_
- P.O. Box 2067
- Simi Valley, CA 93065
- (805) 522-1016
- (full-service rescue)
-
-
- _Julie Priest _
- (510) 778-1638
-
-
- _Gerti Duweiss_
- (209) 523-6221
-
-
- _Barbara Adcock _
- 4444 Lazy Lane
- San Jose, CA 95135
- (408) 274-4444
- (referrals only)
-
-
- _Cindy Legrand _
- 24 Butcher Lane
- Fieldbrook, CA 95521
- (707) 826-1724
- (referrals only)
-
-
- _Lisa Renick _
- 4811 Deny Ct.
- Sacramento, CA 95842
- (916) 339-9818
- (referrals)
-
- _CO_
- _Susan Casey_
- Colorado Springs, CO
- (719) 597-8025
-
-
- _Nancy Phelpes_
- Box 213
- Larkspur, CO 80188
- (303) 681-2900
-
- _CT_
- _German Shepherd Club of Greater New Haven (CT)_
- Roberta
- (203) 795-4910 (New Haven)
- or
- Dorrie Halloway
- (203) 758-3756 (Prospect)
-
-
- _Helen Scott _
- 46 Hyde St
- Manchester, CT 06040
- (203) 646-4023
-
-
- _Catherine A. McDonald_
- 18 Stone Mill Rd.
- Storrs, CT 06268
- (203) 487-1213
-
- _DE_
- _Cynthia Mitchell _
- (302) 875-0756
-
-
- _Suzanne Greenholt_
- 115 Cardinal Circle
- Hockessin, DE 19707
- (302) 234-3339
-
- _FL _
- _Linda Novotasky _
- 4661 Hedgehog St
- Middleburg, FL 32068) 6455
- (904) 282-8808
-
-
- _Irving Polack_
- 361 Western Rd.
- New Smyrna, FL 32168
- (904) 423-8662
-
-
- _Jim Trejbal_
- P.O. Box 2727
- Jacksonville, FL 32203
- (904) 725-8859
-
-
- _Penny Evancic_
- 1244 Jamaica Court
- Jacksonville, FL 32216
- (904) 725-9009
-
-
- _Susan Armstrong_
- 6030 NW 77 Terrace
- Parkland, FL 33067
- (305) 753-5772
-
-
- _Diane Roberts_
- 11904 McMullen Loop
- Riverview, FL 33569
- (813) 671-2913
- A full service rescue
-
- _GA _
- _Janet Berwick_
- (706) 636-2621
-
-
- _Mike Protocas_
- Marietta, GA
- (404) 587-5248
- (referrals)
-
-
- _Dana F. Everles_
- (404) 926-6366
-
- _ID _
- _Sharon Thomas_
- Rt. 1, Box 123
- Priest River, ID 83856
- (208) 448-2787
-
- _IL _
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Liz Vahlcamp
- (314) 863-1467
- full service rescue
-
-
- _Janet Ingalls_
- St. Charles, IL 60175
- (708) 377-2919
- referrals
-
-
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Jackie Brandt
- Rt. 1, Box 253
- Mokena, IL 60448
- (815) 485-2052
- full service rescue
-
- _IN _
- _Deanna Lugo_
- 841 Hoffman
- Hammond, IN 46320
- (219) 932-8424 (home) or 219-853-6516 (office)
-
-
- _Laurie Tatum_
- 96 E. 800 N
- Lake Village, IN 46349
- (219) 345-5540
- full service rescue; owner surrenders only
-
- _LA _
- _Joan R. Morehead_
- PO Box 5024
- Shreveport, LA 71115
- (318) 797-5982
- referrals
-
- _ME _
- _Adroscoggins GSD Club of Maine_
- Winnie And Norman York
- (referrals)
- (207) 797-4387
- (207) 469-7628
-
-
- _Joyce Gagnon_
- RFD 3 Box 433
- Wiscasset, ME 04578
- (207) 882-7470
- (full service rescue)
-
- _MD_ (See VA also for DC area rescues)
- _Risa Lapidow_
- (301) 441-2461
-
-
- _Margaret Scaife_
- Jeff Dr., Box 185-19
- Waldorf, MD 20603
- (301) 843-0966
- full service rescue
-
-
- _Gayle Arrington_
- Prince Frederick, MD
- (410) 535-1999
- (703) 440-6125
- (referrals)
-
- _MA _
- _Janice Ritter_
- (617) 290-0710 (days)
- (referrals)
-
-
- _Westledge GSD Rescue_
- John Hire/Patty Lacroix
- Western MA
- (413) 967-8361
-
-
- _Ann Thompson_
- (413) 323-5968
-
-
- _Debbie Hokkanen_
- GSDCA Regional Rescue Contact
- (508) 852-4473
-
- _MI _
- _Gail Gray_
- 1500 Sylvan Rd.
- Chelsea, MI 48118
- (313) 475-3570
- (referrals)
-
-
- _Kathleen Holcomb_
- 21500 Wasson Rd.
- Gregory, MI 48137
- (517) 223-9863
- (referrals)
-
- _MN _
- _German Shepherd Dog Club of Minneapolis-St. Paul_
- Marilyn Lindsey-Miller
- 210 Kindross, P.O. Box 574
- Willenie, MN 55090
- (612) 426-3682
- (referrals)
-
-
- _Pat Peterson_
- (612) 461-2743
-
-
- _Bert Haagenstad_
- 4361 Welcome Ave N.
- Crystal, MN 55422
- (612) 535-6339
-
- _MS _
- _Cindy Bailye_
- 581 Walker Lane
- Raymond, MS 39154
- (601) 857-5373
-
- _MO _
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Anne Mackey
- Kansas City, MO
- (816) 363-0121
-
-
- _Karen Waggoner_
- Ozark, MO
- (417) 485-6946
-
- _NV _
- _German Shepherd Dog Club of S. Nevada_
- Betty Zapatka
- 5409 Avendia Vaquero
- Las Vegas, NV 89108
- (702) 645-2721
-
-
- _Dottie Newell_
- (702) 425-2103
-
- _NH _
- _Ellamea and Rex Jones_
- (603) 228-6819 (NH)
- Referral only (for now)
-
-
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Stu and Karen Randall
- Goffstown, NH
- (603) 497-3472
-
-
- _Wendy Luba_
- Mt. Vernon, NH 03057
- (603) 673-6426
-
-
- _Emily St. Hilaire_
- Ware, NH 03281
- (603) 529-2458
-
- _NJ _
- _Jodi Caizza_
- (201) 928-9786
-
-
- _Kim Dislonde_
- (201) 743-8885
-
-
- _Iza Kabuska_
- RD2 Box 364
- Andover, NJ 07821
- (201) 398-1393
- full service rescue
-
-
- _Donna Petrosia_
- P.O. Box 903
- Jackson, NJ
- (908) 370-3795
-
-
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Christy Shore
- Leesburg, NJ
- (609) 785-9728
-
-
- _Kim_
- Rutherford, NJ
- (201) 935-7076
- Rotties and GSDs
-
-
- _German Shepherd Rescue, Inc of PA (see below)_
- Southern NJ
- (609) 985-4725
-
-
- _Lacy's Shepherd Rescue_
- Donna Petroisie
- Jackson, NJ
- (908) 370-3795
-
- _NM _
- _Central New Mexico GSDC_
- Kathy Gonsey
- 429 Shirk Ln SW
- Albuguerque, NM 87105
- H: (505) 877-7352
- W: (505) 877-8370
- full service rescue
-
- _NY _
- _Ritter Hof Kennel_
- Mary and Kitty Cummings
- 810 E. Maine Rd.
- Johnson City, NY 13790
- (607) 729-2718
-
-
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Risa Stein
- Rocky Pt, NY
- (516) 744-3258
-
-
- _Anne Marie Stedman_
- (914) 756-4165
-
-
- _Donna Blair_
- Pottersville, NY 12860
- (518) 251-3959
-
-
- _Margaret C. Patterson_
- Macedon, NY
- (315) 524-4126
-
- _NC _
- _German Shepherd Dog Rescue_
- Debbie and Jim Rafalowski
- Raleigh, NC
- (919) 467-4698
- internet:jjr@unity.ncsu.edu
- full service rescue
-
-
- _Steve and Anita Holton_
- Raleigh, NC
- (referrals)
- (919) 774-6384
-
- _OH _
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Elizabeth Stidham
- Eaton, OH 45320
- (513) 456-5393
-
-
- _Dennis Barker_
- 17 Tyler St.
- Toledo, OH 43612
- (419) 476-3899
-
-
- _Dr. Bonnie Huffman_
- 8591 Kennard Rd.
- P.O. Box 4
- Lodi, OH 44254
- (216) 948-4101
-
- _OK _
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Lynn Seals
- 404 Airport Rd.
- Broken Box, OK 74728
- (405) 584-7664
-
- _PA _
- _German Shepherd Rescue, Inc of PA_
- Nancy Aiosa (717) 586-9064
- Diane Reppy (717) 943-2055
- Sue Bunnell (717) 388-6959
- Charlotte Williams (717) 943-2624
-
-
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Nadine Miller
- 1 West Crestlyn Drive
- York, PA 17402
- (717) 741-0286
-
-
- _Kim Carr_
- PO Box 93
- New Columbia, PA 17856
- (717) 568-0567
-
-
- _Colleen Baker_
- 1168 Dogwood Lane
- Quakertown, PA 18951
- (215) 538-3201
-
-
- _German Shepherd Rescue_
- Carol and Wendall Larson
- RD1 Box 415
- UpperBlack Eddy, PA 18972
- (215) 294-9216
-
-
- _Jennifer and Tom Buck_
- RD2 Box 2821P
- Hamburg, PA 19526
- (215) 320-4000
-
- _SC _
- _GSD Rescue_
- Carl Makins
- (803) 232-9125
-
- _TN _
- _Laura Hamrick_
- 233 Burch Road
- Clarksville, TN 37042
- (615) 431-4561
- (White GSD emphasis, but sometimes has others)
-
- _TX _
- _Marci Linn_
- (817) 847-1126
-
-
- _German Shepherd Dog Club of Dallas_
- Connie Irwin
- (214) 530-1568 referrals
- or
- EJ Murphy
- (817) 481-1753 referrals
-
-
- _German Shepherd Dog Club of Houston_
- Adoptive Assistance
- Tom Landry
- (713) 251-0403 (Houston area)
-
-
- _German Shepherd Dog Club of Fort Worth_
- Lee Rugeri
- Roanoke, TX
- (817) 431-9163
- (referrals)
-
-
- _Sherry Wallis_
- 725 E. Creekside
- Houston, TX 77024
- (713) 465-9729
-
- _VT _
-
-
- _Ian McLean_
- Starksboro, VT
- (802) 482-3932
-
-
- _David McCarthy_
- Burlington, VT
- (802) 899-3559
-
-
- _Bonnie Capron_
- Arlington, VT
- (802) 375-6057
-
- _VA_ (See also MD for DC area rescues)
-
-
- _Betsy Brown_
- Oragne, VA
- (703) 854-7840
- referrals
-
-
- _Julie Duhn_
- 200 Gravel Ridge Rd.
- Waynesboro, VA 22980
-
-
- _Larry Spivak_
- 9200 Dorothy Lane
- Springfield, VA
- (703) 451-9046
-
-
- _Gloria Shelton_
- (703) 659-1400
-
-
- _Debbie Day_
- (703) 895-9047
-
- _WA _
-
-
- _GSD Rescue_
- Margaret LaTour
- P.O. Box 3523
- Redmond, WA 98073
- (206) 762-4504
- (full service rescue)
-
- _WV _
-
-
- _James Breon_
- Petersburg, WV
- (304) 257-4638
-
- _WI _
-
-
- _Carol Overguard_
- Cambridge, WI 53523
- (608) 423-4456
-
- ___________________________________
-
- _Breeders_
-
- The best resources to find breeders in good standing are the various
- parent clubs. This list is currently under construction.
-
- ___________________________________
-
- _Other Resources_
- This section is currently under construction.
-
- _Police K-9 Magazines_
-
-
- _The Police K-9 Recruiter_
- PO Box 1263
- Monroe, WA 98272
- (360)568-8870
-
- Subscriptions are free to sworn active law enforcement officers.
- Just fax a business card or letter on department letterhead
- requesting one. Isues are sent to departments only. Officers
- wanting issues mailed to their residence must pay the regular
- subscription fee of $29.95.
-
- ___________________________________
-
- If you have favorite magazines, videos or books about GSDs that are
- not mentioned here, please send mail to: gsd@cluebus.com
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
- _German Shepherd Dog FAQ
- Holly gsd@cluebus.com
- Copyright (c) 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 Holly Lee Stowe_
- _________________________________________________________________
-
-